I've done a lot of gardening. One of my favorite refeences for fruit trees is the book "Grow a Little Fruit Tree" in that book, the author talks about using pruning techniques the Japanese have been using for centuries to keep fruit trees short enough to harvest in the fall without the use of a crane or ladder.
That seems like an obvious thing but, there are some people out there who think trees grow up from the ground rather than out the top. As a side-note; grass DOES grow from the bottom of the plant, pushing the old growth upwards. That is why grasses can tolerate grazing as the animal is always eating the older material, leaving the new material to renew the plant.
20:25 Great information! I’ll be revisiting this video when I’m ready to plant my much anticipated peach tree. Thanks for your time and effort to help us in our gardens🙂
When I pruned my Moringa trees, they were bending way over... almost 180 degrees toward the ground, and ugly and spindly. So, I cut all of them but 1 at eye-level, cutting away every green part, leaving just the main trunks. I was hoping I would not kill them. Now they are the prettiest Moringas I have ever seen, full, bushy and covered with leaves. It pays to prune!
You’re an amazing teacher. I’m pretty sure I share your passion for gardening. ♥️ Plus, I love learning. You are the one source that I will be reaching out to for help with my ornamental Prairie Fire Crabapple that I planted a few years ago…in honor of my first granddaughter. With all of the info you’ve given, I am looking forward to assessing it once again and will get back to you. Thank you!!
Where I live the rabbits and hares also dig at the soil and eat the roots of the trees so I need to make a ring of chicken wire around the tree (extending about a foot and a half from the trunk). It's a bit fiddly but well worth the effort as it will protect the tree trunk and roots for a long time.
The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago .. the second best time is at that tree's next dormant period 😊 The nursery grafted that scion mighty high up on that root stock!
Great video!!! Especially the part where you pruned the “confused” tree. That was tricky. I’ve planted a number of trees in my life but was always shy of pruning at the very start. Used to wait one or two years. I’ve just learnt a valuable lesson. Thank you as always.
As a kid I helped my mom plant trees, ect. She would fill the hole with water as we backfilled the sandy loam soil. This allowed the soil to fill in the air pockets and at the same time soak the whole root zone. 😄I also build a moat around all my plantings as it keeps the water put and not running away from where it's needed. It really assists in getting a deep soaking and without it it wouldn't be possible unless you use a soaker hose--even then the water could runoff. I'm still training my husband to water plants thoroughly--it may take another 30 odd years, but we're getting there🤣🤣
In 2020 as the world went crazy, I planted a dozen fruit trees. I had to water every other day (very hot dry summer), and each tree received 20 gallons. (I have Sandy soil). Eventually, I got some 5 gallon buckets, put a small hole in each and used them as dribble buckets.
@@classicrocklover5615 Yes, we did the pails also. We set pails high on stands and ran plastic tubes to squash and pumpkins with drippers on ends. Also next to trees. We were in severe drought and hopefully we are coming out this year. Sandy soil has ups and downs and nothing but a boat load of organic material helps. Even then it seems to turn to dust🤣
Scott, only came across your channel but really enjoy your delivery, approach and knowledge. Thanks for all the time you put into producing them. Very valuable. 👍
Great lesson Scott, thank you. I just purchased a home on six acres in North Carolina. I plan to start a homestead; with a garden, fruit and nut orchard, and livestock. I am learning a lot from your videos. There is so much to learn, that it is a little daunting; but it is exciting at the same time.
Great video! I have a small urban lot. For maximum number of semi-dwarf trees in my south facing front yard with a sidewalk, I think I’m going to “modified central leader” them all as a compromise between fit and production. Low bush edibles and strawberries planned below them for a dense permaculture.
Great timing, I've got three apple trees and a peach coming! I'm always jealous when I see someone digging in to real dirt! I had to rent a backhoe to dig the holes for the trees! (The 4 fruit trees and 6 arborvitae.) Lots of rocky soil in my area of SW Missouri. Thanks again for your great videos!!!
What a great video with lots of info. Really appreciate the explanation of the logic behind the what / why / how of pruning. If I can add my two cents: I mix the soil (lots of clay here in TX) really well at the root and add compost to encourage roots growth.
Just great information. I sometimes wonder if I can hold onto all of it. 🤯 I am in the process of choosing my varieties and preparing my space. I’m excited to grow fruit trees. I grew up in south Texas and picked oranges almost every day of my life. Not sure if they’ll grow well here but my limited research says it will, so….
Hi Scott, great video as always. Just a small comment, in my case the soil is heavy clay, when dry it turns like stone. My method of planting is making a big hole (2 feet wide and 2 o 3 feet deep) and then mixing the removed soil with compost, to add organic matter and help with compaction. I understand that a rich planting hole compared to a poor surrounding soil may lead to lazy root development but maybe in some cases we need to make some modifications to the original soil in order to give a chance to the tree to survive the first period and get strong.
My soil is poor too and that's a big reason I have thick wood chip mulch over the whole area. Over time I hope it will benefit the soil as it decomposes.
Congrats on getting over 100k subscribers. Great info, hoping to plant more trees this fall in our fedge (food hedge) and thank you for sharing. When planting I usually add liquid vitamin B1 to encourage root growth and deeply water to help get rid of air pockets prior to adding more soil, making berms (ring of soil) and mulching heavily with 2-3"'s of space between the trunk and the mulch.
I just planted my first Apple Tree, a Cosmic Crisp Apple Tree. I can't lie, pruning scares me. Watching this video has helped me get over that a little. 1 question I have, I know with Peach Trees you have to worry about leaf curl. Is that something to worry about with Nectarine Trees?
Got grief for merely saying poor. So here goes: First compost. In a windy area compost is advised but not directly around the root. Dig the hole much larger- 2’6” radius minimum. (5’ diameter) On the outer edge of this hole dig a a ring a foot deeper- fill this foot with compost. The root system is then attracted equally in all directions (of importance) to what will be a moist rich area which creates a stable well spread root system supporting the tree. Here note that if one is to plant closer to a building than ideal this method can be used to have some basic control over the direction of the root growth away from the building) This also minimises the risk of flooding the trunk base root should heavy rains come. Nitrogen base can also be added to the surface. Mulch 2-4 inch deep but *NOT* against the trunk, leave 2” radius free space. Straighten your trunk. Use the shovel handle laid flat over the hole to determine depth. Ideally in what looks like poor, stony arid soil you are well advised to add mycorrhizal fungi to assist the root system. Oh and another point. As stated it’s a windy area so these trees would need staked. There are various methods but never stake parallel down against the trunk. Diagonal or a triple (triangle) straight with ties is much more effective. And as for time of year. Not quite. Apple best planted November to April as are most trees in the NH. As for hard heading cuts. Seal the cut, even if it’s just honey or wax to prevent disease and over leakage of sap. On the note of disease. I advise treating the root system of any new tree/ shrub with a mild solution of copper sulphate prior to planting, this will kill off all unwanted fungal agents. It’s one thing that this new tree may be diseased but you run the risk of contaminating what may be an entire orchard. Edge on the side of caution folks and here note that copper sulphate is approved for organic growing.
The planting is the easy part of fruit trees, the pests and deseases as the tree grows is the hard part , i hate to be negative ,i love fruit trees but the spraying is the hard part and to keep pests and deases under control you must spray and often.
Thank you for another interesting and educational video. Watching from UK. We are at the end of Autumn heading into winter with day time temp around 4-6 degrees. Spring time around April usually.I am planting a few barefoot trees ( Apple, Pear, Cherry and plum, Peach)I also have some fruit trees planted last winter. When is the best time to make winter pruning cuts please for different fruits? Thanks
It's usually best to prune when the trees are dormant. While cold temperatures slow growth above ground, roots can continue growing until soil freezes. January and February are common times to prune.
The basics are the same with clay or sandy soil. A thick layer of organic mulch like wood chips can encourage soil life that will improve the soil over time.
Would a Quince fruit tree produce better with a central leader training since the fruit is in the Pome family? Thank you for your very informative videos and for sharing your knowledge/experiences!
I'm having a hard time finding the information I'm looking for online. I'm hoping you can help. I purchased and planted a bare root apple tree a couple months ago. It's doing beautifully and even budding. I've heard that you should remove the blossoms that appear after planting trees/bushes during the first year to make the plant put its focus on a good root system so it will survive the winter (I'm in WI, zone 4B). Is removing the blooms a myth? Or does it really help? I planted blueberries at the same time and a couple of those are also blooming. Do you recommend removing the blooms the first year? Or just leave them be? I look forward to your guiding words wisdom. Thank you.
Removing the blooms can direct energy to root development and young branches may not be strong enough to support numerous apples. I remove most of them, but it's nice to get an apple or two in that first year as a reward.
It's a lot better to worry than be a "know it all" and prune the tree to death. And after Scott's video watch more videos on youtube about pruning fruit trees. After a few videos you'll find that you don't have to worry that much. And never forget: "less is more". Cheers
Extension often has staff that can come to you. I agree with Oysterman. Give something new a try. If you do something wrong the plant will almost always recover and it gives you new knowledge to get it right the second time. I've learned a lot that way.
Thank you for that helpful step-by-step demo with explanations. I ordered a mulberry bear root sapling and want to be able to get to the berries without climbing and to protect them from birds. I was thinking that the vase shape would be best, but is it better to have a central leader with a mulberry tree?
Gardener Scott, I have a question. As a neighbor of yours, I have the same soil and climate as you. With that in mind, do you think back to eden gardening qualifies fruit trees for "minimal watering"? Is it a legitimate excuse to water very little? Also, do you think it's necessary to water over the winter here? Thanks.
I do. I have 5-6 inches of wood chips all around the area I have for my fruit trees. Last year (much drier than this one) the soil underneath stayed moist for weeks without water. Winter watering is a good idea if we don't get snow.
I read about experiments with growing fruit trees on their own roots by burying scion under the ground level. Trees size could be controled by prunning and bending branches. Trees grow healthier and fruits taste slightly different.
Scott, I have 6 self pollinating grafted standard Bing cherries whips that are 6 or 7 years old in containers. They are 7 to 8 feet tall with no laterals but about 20 1 foot long leaves shoots coming out of the tree. The leader diameter is around 1.5 inches, they are super healthy from a college nursery, 20 $ each. The Nursery could not find a buyer when they were younger because I am in Spokane, WA and everybody likes dwarfs for their homes because of size limits. I, too, do have the proper size for the standards, but we are 60 years old, and we are thinking that we will be dead when the size takes over, and then it will be someone else's problem. Do we need to heading cut them to 3 feet, or can we use the super slender axe SSA or TALL SPINDLE AXE TSA to keep all of that impressive 8 foot leader growth? We have 10 to 15 feet for growth, and I am reading head it low for strong laterals to come in. Thanks, Andrea
With older trees like that a low cut may not be needed unless that's where you want to encourage low branches at that spot. Keeping the leader and height may work better for you.
I take it that the way the trees were planted is pretty much how you would plant other bare root plants like rose bushes? I hope so because while I am not going to plant trees, my wife wants some roses.
Hi, Scott! Brandon Garrett from Fountain, CO here... We received a three-year-old Kafir Lime tree, and the trunk was damaged in shipment (snapped in two and dangling by a thread) about 18.5" from the growing tip. Is a trunk able to repair itself with a splint and some electrical tape? If I prune it at a 45 degree angle just above the highest branch below the break, will the tree resume growth, or is the tree essentially destroyed once the growing tip is gone? The nursery is sending a replacement tree, but I hate to see something as valuable as a Kafir Lime tree be destroyed. Thank you in advance! P.S. I'd love to be able to send you pictures from my garden, and I'm sure other subscribers would, too. Please consider opening a Gardener Scott Twitter account so that we can communicate with you in that way. You can also post tweets letting us know when a new TH-cam video goes live. It's a great way to communicate! I so appreciate your content. If you are ever in the Fountain area, I'd love to show you my garden!
It's tough for the trunk to repair a break like that. It is possible for the graft/fix to work. It's more likely the tree will send out new branches below the break if there are any buds. I do have a Facebook page and twitter feed. I post new videos on there. Thanks.
Another great video Sir. With regards to senior apple trees not taken care of for years. I acquired a piece of land with at least 4-5 apple trees on it and they did produced apples last year but are in dire need of pruning. What would you suggest on how I should approach pruning them?
You can use the same types of cuts, but it's not advised to remove more than 1/3 of the branches in any year. Start with the branches that are interfering with others or look diseased or damaged.
Oh goodness, thank you for this video. I wish i had seen this 1-1 1/2 months ago. I planted 4 dwarf fruit tree's and 2 other fruit tree's and didn't put to much thought into it. Is it to late to prune them?
Always a good time to prune dead and diseased limbs. Pruning when the plants are actively growing will limit growth and promote bushiness. For structural branch growth, winter is a better time.
@@GardenerScott Thank you so much. See, thats why i love you and your channel. Your so kind and always answer my questions. Thank you so much for everything you do. Your a living Book of info for us. Bless you my friend. :D
I’m planting some citrus trees into high clay soil. Horrible soil in my yard. Should I back fill with native clay/soil? Or should I use a garden soil or something similar? Thank you
You still need to consider how far the roots will grow. Amend as much of the area as you can and use a deep organic mulch. The soil should improve over time.
.I live in central Florida in which case the weather is mainly hot and humidity is in variation I would like to plant some avocadoes and orange trees which methods should I use to have my plants or trees yield more crop and which fertilizers would you recommend since weather is a factor and chills sometimes dry out and freeze in winter time as is now.
I don't typically recommend fertilizers. Do a soil test to determine if there are nutrient deficiencies and that can help determine what you might need.
When I plant in an established lawn, I cut out all the grass a little past the drilling and keep it grass-free and mulched for at least three years. Is this a best practice or is some other way better? Thanks!
What are your thoughts on intentionally whipping a newly planted tart cherry tree if there are no good candidate branches to work with? I would really like to establish the vase shape starting at just around 18 inches or so. Should this whipping take place right away at planting time or wait a year? What time of year is best to do this? I live in West Michigan (near Grand Rapids).
Whipping to promote new low branches tends to work best when the tree is first planted. It's best to do it when the tree is still dormant in late winter or early spring. Pruning after the tree is actively growing promotes smaller branches and more leaves, rather than the structural branches.
Hey Gardener Scott, I love your work. When you are planting your trees it appears you mulch them, but pretty lightly, just filling the pit you made with your soil. On another video you said to encourage a fungal environment around your trees, using mulch. Others have advised me to mulch heavily around fruit trees, and to make a sort of high circle of mulch, like you did with your soil. It also appears you mulch right up to the trunk, which I have heard isn't wise. I am sure you have good reasons, can you explain them to me please?
Thanks! I started with a small amount of mulch to help me monitor the amount of water in the circle around the tree while it was beginning to grow. Since then I have added thick wood chip mulch in the entire area between the trees. A light mulch up to the trunk is okay, but thicker mulch can encourage pests like rodents to burrow under the chips and chew on the young bark. Once the trees are bigger with thicker bark it is less of a concern and more mulch can be used.
I planted a bare root Goji berry bush about 4 weeks ago, and I'm seeing what look like new shoots coming from the roots, but there's still no sign of leaves on the main stem. Should I be concerned?
Hi Scott! In the past, I’ve heard not to put the mulch directly against the tree because it will keep the trunk wet and cause issues. I see you put the mulch all around and all the way to the tree. Is there a time when you don’t do that? Or did I get some bad info? Thanks so much! Looking forward to adding fruit trees to my garden!
You are right. I cut out that part of the video because it was long. The mulch should be removed from the trunk to avoid possible rot and to keep rodents from having a safe place to eat the trunk.
Gardener Scott I have an apple tree that I planted in the fall of 2021. Last month my young dog broke off all four branches that were perfectly placed for a vase shape tree. Now I am left with just a trunk. If I make a heading cut, will the tree grow new branches? I’m worried without branches the tree may die since it won’t have any leaves when it comes out of dormancy. PLEASE help!!!! Thanks in advance Edit: will I need to do notching for new branches to grow or would making a heading cut alone work?
My dog did that too. A heading cut should stimulate new side branches. There's no guarantee that they'll be in perfect placement, but it's worth a try. The new branches should have enough leaves to support initial growth and you might want to limit pruning until the tree recovers.
Scott, I saw another tree planting video in which it is recommended to plant the graft point north to protect it from the sun. I suppose this depends where you are located. This video was from someone in California. Are you in an area where the sun is stronger in the south? I’m in zone 7A and expecting my tree delivery any day, I want to make sure the graft point is pointing the safest direction.
While the graft point begins as a weak spot, after a few years the bark has grown to protect it just like any other part of the trunk. The issue may be more about protecting it from a freeze-thaw cycle in some cold regions and not from the sun. I wrap my trees with white tree wrap or use a plastic sleeve to protect my young trees from the possible bark split that can happen.
@@titanart6225 I generally don't stake the small ones. Bigger bare root trees in windy regions can benefit from two stakes with the tree lightly supported between them.
For planting trees, you said that down part should be toward south, why is that? After you planted, you spread mulch? It isn't better spread compost instead of mulch?
In my region the south is the direction of the sun. Compost is a very good mulch but I don't have enough to cover the whole area with compost so I use a wood chip mulch.
I feel that most youtuber video showed planting trees in nice soft soil like yours. We have hard compacted clay soil with rocks. It's not that easy to just dig. I would have to prep the area with lot of water for couple of days to let it really soaked in then use shovel and start digging...even then, it's still not as easy as yours. Is there anything else I need to do to get the soil looser besides just watering it? Thank you.
My soil is far from soft and required a lot of soaking to dig in it. I use a thick layer of mulch after planting to help maintain soil moisture and gradually improve the soil as it decomposes.
It depends on their size and moisture levels. In my dry area the base begins to decompose in a few months but the top is still whole after a couple years.
I don't use bagged wood chips so can't recommend a brand. Many of them are chipped shipping pallets and then dyed. I found a local service that chips up trees and branches and get my chips there. Many cities have similar services.
I live on very hard, rocky, clay soil. It's all fill from when my housing development was built. I was thinking about digging out a large trench and amending the soil to help increase drainage before planting my belgian fence espalier row of fruit trees, but I'm not sure if that soil amendment will help or hurt. Do you have any advice for my situation?
If you can do a large enough area where you expect roots to grow, you can amend the soil. Espalier trees tend to have smaller root systems and it can work.
Can I prune my fruit trees (pear, plum and cherry) that have been put from bare root into pots since January? They have leaves and have budded. I didn't realise how much pruning was actually needed.
You can prune after the leaves appear, but that will produce more short branches and leaves. For structural pruning it's best to wait until the tree is dormant.
A Dave Wilson's Nursery video says if my cherry tree isn't grown in a bed, it'll most likely be dead in 3 years. He says it's also best for all fruit trees. #2). I planted my fruit trees temporarily in their heavy cardboard pots. I have my reasons. If I decide to let them be permanent, will the roots eventually grow through the pots or should I de-pot and re-plant?
The experts at Dave's Nursery are among the best. The roots can grow outside the pot and will die at that point. If you see roots like that you should definitely re-pot to a larger size, unless you're actively pruning the tree and roots as part of your plan.
@@GardenerScott No,no. The trees IN THE POTS are already planted. I just planted them, mainly to protect them from winter rather than bring them inside. Also, Dave's says the Citation root stock does better in clay soil but that they don't use that stock....and I know the tree is from Dave's. I just happened to get a small plant from a nursery (by mail) yesterday that said I could plant their plant, cardboard pot and all. Hmm, guess I should ask "Dave's" about the tree pot being planted. I just thought that all plants came in the cardboard "plantable" pots now since the 3 trees and 2 grapevines came that way.
Gardener Scott, I have some fruit tree saplings that I have started from the fruit that I have eaten (except for the peach), I sprouted them in the fridge in 2018 winter and potted them in spring of 2019. My question is... My Honeycrisp tree/saplings are about 3 foot tall now and do not have side branches, it is currently April 27th of 2019, Is it to late to cut the branch about half way down to encourage branches on the sides? I am very new at fruit trees and really want them to do well. Your help would be much appreciated. Thank you.
I have an Asian Pear tree which has been in the ground for 2 years. I have noticed it get a lot of sprouts on the tree low to the ground which I cut off. They keep coming back and I cut them off again. What is going on ?
I just planted two dwarf pear trees and two apple trees. all are starting to leaf out but one of the pears, my dwarf Bartlett 😟. still no leaves. I'm kinda sad. anyway to tell if it's still alive?
I'm loving the Bob Ross Intro!
Thanks! I had fun with that.
I've done a lot of gardening. One of my favorite refeences for fruit trees is the book "Grow a Little Fruit Tree" in that book, the author talks about using pruning techniques the Japanese have been using for centuries to keep fruit trees short enough to harvest in the fall without the use of a crane or ladder.
Thanks for sharing!!
"Wherever the branche is today it will be that same height ..." is the best take away for me. Thank you.
That seems like an obvious thing but, there are some people out there who think trees grow up from the ground rather than out the top.
As a side-note; grass DOES grow from the bottom of the plant, pushing the old growth upwards. That is why grasses can tolerate grazing as the animal is always eating the older material, leaving the new material to renew the plant.
20:25 Great information! I’ll be revisiting this video when I’m ready to plant my much anticipated peach tree. Thanks for your time and effort to help us in our gardens🙂
When I pruned my Moringa trees, they were bending way over... almost 180 degrees toward the ground, and ugly and spindly. So, I cut all of them but 1 at eye-level, cutting away every green part, leaving just the main trunks. I was hoping I would not kill them. Now they are the prettiest Moringas I have ever seen, full, bushy and covered with leaves. It pays to prune!
This "Buds" for you. I'm trying to grow a peach and apple nearing a year. I needed your expertise. Stay Blessed- The Peacher Lady.
Incredibly helpful
You do a great video. Everything clearly explained. Thanks, Scot.
You’re an amazing teacher. I’m pretty sure I share your passion for gardening. ♥️ Plus, I love learning.
You are the one source that I will be reaching out to for help with my ornamental Prairie Fire Crabapple that I planted a few years ago…in honor of my first granddaughter.
With all of the info you’ve given, I am looking forward to assessing it once again and will get back to you. Thank you!!
Where I live the rabbits and hares also dig at the soil and eat the roots of the trees so I need to make a ring of chicken wire around the tree (extending about a foot and a half from the trunk). It's a bit fiddly but well worth the effort as it will protect the tree trunk and roots for a long time.
The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago .. the second best time is at that tree's next dormant period 😊 The nursery grafted that scion mighty high up on that root stock!
You're right. That may be the highest graft I've seen.
I’ve learnt much about pruning . Thank you
Loved the video. Getting around 10 fruit trees next week. Can't wait to plant them! Thank you
The best time to plant a tree is 20 years ago.. the second best time, is NOW.
Tree Planting humour ....lol
So the third best time to plant a tree is 20 years from now? Third best is still pretty good if you ask me.
I’m a Chinese ,never heard of it
🌳🌳🌳
Great video!!! Especially the part where you pruned the “confused” tree. That was tricky. I’ve planted a number of trees in my life but was always shy of pruning at the very start. Used to wait one or two years. I’ve just learnt a valuable lesson. Thank you as always.
Glad it was helpful!
As a kid I helped my mom plant trees, ect. She would fill the hole with water as we backfilled the sandy loam soil. This allowed the soil to fill in the air pockets and at the same time soak the whole root zone. 😄I also build a moat around all my plantings as it keeps the water put and not running away from where it's needed. It really assists in getting a deep soaking and without it it wouldn't be possible unless you use a soaker hose--even then the water could runoff. I'm still training my husband to water plants thoroughly--it may take another 30 odd years, but we're getting there🤣🤣
In 2020 as the world went crazy, I planted a dozen fruit trees. I had to water every other day (very hot dry summer), and each tree received 20 gallons. (I have Sandy soil). Eventually, I got some 5 gallon buckets, put a small hole in each and used them as dribble buckets.
@@classicrocklover5615 Yes, we did the pails also. We set pails high on stands and ran plastic tubes to squash and pumpkins with drippers on ends. Also next to trees. We were in severe drought and hopefully we are coming out this year. Sandy soil has ups and downs and nothing but a boat load of organic material helps. Even then it seems to turn to dust🤣
I just bought my first apple tree today.😊 It's in a pot, not bare root.
I'm glad I came across this video today.
Scott, only came across your channel but really enjoy your delivery, approach and knowledge. Thanks for all the time you put into producing them. Very valuable. 👍
I appreciate that!
I’ve got Grow A Little Fruit Tree. It’s a great book.
Great lesson Scott, thank you. I just purchased a home on six acres in North Carolina. I plan to start a homestead; with a garden, fruit and nut orchard, and livestock. I am learning a lot from your videos. There is so much to learn, that it is a little daunting; but it is exciting at the same time.
You can do it! Keep learning and have fun with it.
How’s your homestead going?
Great video! I have a small urban lot. For maximum number of semi-dwarf trees in my south facing front yard with a sidewalk, I think I’m going to “modified central leader” them all as a compromise between fit and production. Low bush edibles and strawberries planned below them for a dense permaculture.
Amending the soil in 5 foot radius from the trunk can really promote fast growth...especially if you have dense clay soil.
Congratulations on the 100k subscribers! I remember a couple of weeks ago you were around 75k, very impressive growth! Keep up the good work!
Thanks! Will do!
Had to laugh at that confused tree 😵💫😂. You got it straightened out tho 👍. 👵🏻👩🌾❣️
Great timing Scott. I have a small batch of fruit trees and bushes arriving in just a few days. Thanks as always for the advice
Your "painful" cut to create the open center peach.... I just cut my first two apple trees in this manner this spring. It's a bit scary
Enjoy!
Great timing, I've got three apple trees and a peach coming!
I'm always jealous when I see someone digging in to real dirt! I had to rent a backhoe to dig the holes for the trees! (The 4 fruit trees and 6 arborvitae.) Lots of rocky soil in my area of SW Missouri.
Thanks again for your great videos!!!
Thanks! Good luck with your trees!
Very clear advice - thanks for sharing the budding direction tip!
Glad it was helpful!
"Happy little trees", reminds me of Bob Ross!
Great information on planting and pruning trees. Very easy video to fallow and understand. Great video my gardening friend!
Thank you! I was a bit afraid to start pruning, but now I know what to do. I will get into it. Thanks a lot.
You can do it!
Soooo helpful!! thanks Gardner Scott! You've given me a much better understanding!
Trees looking good there.
What a great video with lots of info. Really appreciate the explanation of the logic behind the what / why / how of pruning. If I can add my two cents: I mix the soil (lots of clay here in TX) really well at the root and add compost to encourage roots growth.
Glad it was helpful!
Just great information. I sometimes wonder if I can hold onto all of it. 🤯 I am in the process of choosing my varieties and preparing my space. I’m excited to grow fruit trees. I grew up in south Texas and picked oranges almost every day of my life. Not sure if they’ll grow well here but my limited research says it will, so….
Nice Job
Thank you sir, really enjoyed watching and learning. God Bless
Very detailed and helpful thanks 👍🏻
Hi Scott, great video as always. Just a small comment, in my case the soil is heavy clay, when dry it turns like stone. My method of planting is making a big hole (2 feet wide and 2 o 3 feet deep) and then mixing the removed soil with compost, to add organic matter and help with compaction. I understand that a rich planting hole compared to a poor surrounding soil may lead to lazy root development but maybe in some cases we need to make some modifications to the original soil in order to give a chance to the tree to survive the first period and get strong.
My soil is poor too and that's a big reason I have thick wood chip mulch over the whole area. Over time I hope it will benefit the soil as it decomposes.
Such perfect timing! I literally just put a cherry tree into my car!
Size? I’d advise against pruning until early summer- Late May/ June next year.
@@SynKronos mine is new and about 4 or 5 foot. Planted from bare root in January. Plum, pear and cherry. Should I wait until next year for them?
i dont think it will grow good in your car lol
@@boob24 lol! Train it out the window
I plant lemon and peach trees for fun. had a good lemon tree but lost it so im starting again
You are a gem :)
Nice job on this video!
Congrats on getting over 100k subscribers. Great info, hoping to plant more trees this fall in our fedge (food hedge) and thank you for sharing. When planting I usually add liquid vitamin B1 to encourage root growth and deeply water to help get rid of air pockets prior to adding more soil, making berms (ring of soil) and mulching heavily with 2-3"'s of space between the trunk and the mulch.
Yes, keeping space between the trunk and mulch is a good idea.
I just planted my first Apple Tree, a Cosmic Crisp Apple Tree. I can't lie, pruning scares me. Watching this video has helped me get over that a little. 1 question I have, I know with Peach Trees you have to worry about leaf curl. Is that something to worry about with Nectarine Trees?
Possibly. The same problem affects both peaches and nectarines.
Got grief for merely saying poor.
So here goes:
First compost. In a windy area compost is advised but not directly around the root. Dig the hole much larger- 2’6” radius minimum. (5’ diameter) On the outer edge of this hole dig a a ring a foot deeper- fill this foot with compost. The root system is then attracted equally in all directions (of importance) to what will be a moist rich area which creates a stable well spread root system supporting the tree. Here note that if one is to plant closer to a building than ideal this method can be used to have some basic control over the direction of the root growth away from the building) This also minimises the risk of flooding the trunk base root should heavy rains come. Nitrogen base can also be added to the surface. Mulch 2-4 inch deep but *NOT* against the trunk, leave 2” radius free space. Straighten your trunk. Use the shovel handle laid flat over the hole to determine depth.
Ideally in what looks like poor, stony arid soil you are well advised to add mycorrhizal fungi to assist the root system. Oh and another point. As stated it’s a windy area so these trees would need staked. There are various methods but never stake parallel down against the trunk. Diagonal or a triple (triangle) straight with ties is much more effective.
And as for time of year. Not quite. Apple best planted November to April as are most trees in the NH. As for hard heading cuts. Seal the cut, even if it’s just honey or wax to prevent disease and over leakage of sap. On the note of disease. I advise treating the root system of any new tree/ shrub with a mild solution of copper sulphate prior to planting, this will kill off all unwanted fungal agents. It’s one thing that this new tree may be diseased but you run the risk of contaminating what may be an entire orchard. Edge on the side of caution folks and here note that copper sulphate is approved for organic growing.
thank you Scott
You're welcome.
Great video, very informative, Thanks for sharing👍
The planting is the easy part of fruit trees, the pests and deseases as the tree grows is the hard part , i hate to be negative ,i love fruit trees but the spraying is the hard part and to keep pests and deases under control you must spray and often.
I don't spray and focus on attracting beneficial insects in my battles. Choosing disease resistant varieties is important too.
Neem oil
Good tips
Glad you think so!
Thank you for another interesting and educational video.
Watching from UK. We are at the end of Autumn heading into winter with day time temp around 4-6 degrees. Spring time around April usually.I am planting a few barefoot trees ( Apple, Pear, Cherry and plum, Peach)I also have some fruit trees planted last winter. When is the best time to make winter pruning cuts please for different fruits? Thanks
It's usually best to prune when the trees are dormant. While cold temperatures slow growth above ground, roots can continue growing until soil freezes. January and February are common times to prune.
Would you make any changes if your soil was clay? Any amendments or advice on how to help the roots extend into the clay?
The basics are the same with clay or sandy soil. A thick layer of organic mulch like wood chips can encourage soil life that will improve the soil over time.
HAHAHA... Bob Ross lives on!!! Just need a few happy rocks. LOL
Would a Quince fruit tree produce better with a central leader training since the fruit is in the Pome family? Thank you for your very informative videos and for sharing your knowledge/experiences!
Yes, pruning a quince like an apple tree is often recommended.
Very informative, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Thanks. Could you give me any advice about new bare fruit PLUM trees?
Thanks. Plum trees are great in a home garden. They benefit from annual pruning to remove dead branches and maintain the shape you want.
I cringed when he cut the peach tree top. Ouch, but it’s necessary and there is a reason behind it. Wonderful gardener, bar none.
Brilliant.
Thanks.
thanks for this video. What is the best advice for pruning a pomegranate and mango tree?. I lived in the tropical climate.
I don't have experience with those trees, so I suggest you look to local experts near you. Sorry.
thank you so much !! very informative
Glad it was helpful!
Good video, very helpful!!
Thanks! Glad you think so!
I'm having a hard time finding the information I'm looking for online. I'm hoping you can help.
I purchased and planted a bare root apple tree a couple months ago. It's doing beautifully and even budding. I've heard that you should remove the blossoms that appear after planting trees/bushes during the first year to make the plant put its focus on a good root system so it will survive the winter (I'm in WI, zone 4B). Is removing the blooms a myth? Or does it really help? I planted blueberries at the same time and a couple of those are also blooming.
Do you recommend removing the blooms the first year? Or just leave them be?
I look forward to your guiding words wisdom. Thank you.
Removing the blooms can direct energy to root development and young branches may not be strong enough to support numerous apples. I remove most of them, but it's nice to get an apple or two in that first year as a reward.
@@GardenerScott thank you!
I buy all my fruit trees from a garden center so I can pick trees that suit my garden and stile.
I wonder if the County Ext has someone who'll come out and advise on pruning. Worrying about doing something wrong keeps me from doing anything.
It's a lot better to worry than be a "know it all" and prune the tree to death. And after Scott's video watch more videos on youtube about pruning fruit trees. After a few videos you'll find that you don't have to worry that much. And never forget: "less is more". Cheers
Extension often has staff that can come to you. I agree with Oysterman. Give something new a try. If you do something wrong the plant will almost always recover and it gives you new knowledge to get it right the second time. I've learned a lot that way.
Thank you for that helpful step-by-step demo with explanations. I ordered a mulberry bear root sapling and want to be able to get to the berries without climbing and to protect them from birds. I was thinking that the vase shape would be best, but is it better to have a central leader with a mulberry tree?
From what I've seen, they tend to do better with a vase shape.
@@GardenerScott Thank you very much for that answer, Gardener Scott!
Gardener Scott, I have a question.
As a neighbor of yours, I have the same soil and climate as you.
With that in mind, do you think back to eden gardening qualifies fruit trees for "minimal watering"?
Is it a legitimate excuse to water very little?
Also, do you think it's necessary to water over the winter here?
Thanks.
I do. I have 5-6 inches of wood chips all around the area I have for my fruit trees. Last year (much drier than this one) the soil underneath stayed moist for weeks without water. Winter watering is a good idea if we don't get snow.
I read about experiments with growing fruit trees on their own roots by burying scion under the ground level. Trees size could be controled by prunning and bending branches. Trees grow healthier and fruits taste slightly different.
Yes, pruning can control tree size without relying on root stock.
Great info. I have an apple tree to plant. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Scott, I have 6 self pollinating grafted standard Bing cherries whips that are 6 or 7 years old in containers. They are 7 to 8 feet tall with no laterals but about 20 1 foot long leaves shoots coming out of the tree. The leader diameter is around 1.5 inches, they are super healthy from a college nursery, 20 $ each. The Nursery could not find a buyer when they were younger because I am in Spokane, WA and everybody likes dwarfs for their homes because of size limits. I, too, do have the proper size for the standards, but we are 60 years old, and we are thinking that we will be dead when the size takes over, and then it will be someone else's problem. Do we need to heading cut them to 3 feet, or can we use the super slender axe SSA or TALL SPINDLE AXE TSA to keep all of that impressive 8 foot leader growth? We have 10 to 15 feet for growth, and I am reading head it low for strong laterals to come in. Thanks, Andrea
With older trees like that a low cut may not be needed unless that's where you want to encourage low branches at that spot. Keeping the leader and height may work better for you.
I take it that the way the trees were planted is pretty much how you would plant other bare root plants like rose bushes? I hope so because while I am not going to plant trees, my wife wants some roses.
Very similar.
Hi, Scott!
Brandon Garrett from Fountain, CO here... We received a three-year-old Kafir Lime tree, and the trunk was damaged in shipment (snapped in two and dangling by a thread) about 18.5" from the growing tip. Is a trunk able to repair itself with a splint and some electrical tape? If I prune it at a 45 degree angle just above the highest branch below the break, will the tree resume growth, or is the tree essentially destroyed once the growing tip is gone?
The nursery is sending a replacement tree, but I hate to see something as valuable as a Kafir Lime tree be destroyed. Thank you in advance!
P.S. I'd love to be able to send you pictures from my garden, and I'm sure other subscribers would, too. Please consider opening a Gardener Scott Twitter account so that we can communicate with you in that way. You can also post tweets letting us know when a new TH-cam video goes live. It's a great way to communicate! I so appreciate your content. If you are ever in the Fountain area, I'd love to show you my garden!
It's tough for the trunk to repair a break like that. It is possible for the graft/fix to work. It's more likely the tree will send out new branches below the break if there are any buds. I do have a Facebook page and twitter feed. I post new videos on there. Thanks.
@@GardenerScott Thank you, Scott! I just followed you on Twitter!
Another great video Sir. With regards to senior apple trees not taken care of for years. I acquired a piece of land with at least 4-5 apple trees on it and they did produced apples last year but are in dire need of pruning. What would you suggest on how I should approach pruning them?
You can use the same types of cuts, but it's not advised to remove more than 1/3 of the branches in any year. Start with the branches that are interfering with others or look diseased or damaged.
Oh goodness, thank you for this video. I wish i had seen this 1-1 1/2 months ago. I planted 4 dwarf fruit tree's and 2 other fruit tree's and didn't put to much thought into it. Is it to late to prune them?
Always a good time to prune dead and diseased limbs. Pruning when the plants are actively growing will limit growth and promote bushiness. For structural branch growth, winter is a better time.
@@GardenerScott Thank you so much. See, thats why i love you and your channel. Your so kind and always answer my questions. Thank you so much for everything you do. Your a living Book of info for us. Bless you my friend. :D
I’m planting some citrus trees into high clay soil. Horrible soil in my yard. Should I back fill with native clay/soil? Or should I use a garden soil or something similar? Thank you
You still need to consider how far the roots will grow. Amend as much of the area as you can and use a deep organic mulch. The soil should improve over time.
.I live in central Florida in which case the weather is mainly hot and humidity is in variation I would like to plant some avocadoes and orange trees which methods should I use to have my plants or trees yield more crop and which fertilizers would you recommend since weather is a factor and chills sometimes dry out and freeze in winter time as is now.
I don't typically recommend fertilizers. Do a soil test to determine if there are nutrient deficiencies and that can help determine what you might need.
I have heavy clay soil and I’ve heard many contradictory things about amending the soil. I did not and I hope that was the right decision
Amending is good for all soils, including clay and sand.
@@GardenerScott I didn’t amend should I uproot it and amend?
I don't think so. I don't amend the hole when I plant trees and try to focus on improving the whole area with organic mulch.
When I plant in an established lawn, I cut out all the grass a little past the drilling and keep it grass-free and mulched for at least three years. Is this a best practice or is some other way better? Thanks!
That sounds good. I would consider leaving some mulch around the tree beyond the three threes to avoid mower or trimmer damage.
What are your thoughts on intentionally whipping a newly planted tart cherry tree if there are no good candidate branches to work with? I would really like to establish the vase shape starting at just around 18 inches or so. Should this whipping take place right away at planting time or wait a year? What time of year is best to do this? I live in West Michigan (near Grand Rapids).
Whipping to promote new low branches tends to work best when the tree is first planted. It's best to do it when the tree is still dormant in late winter or early spring. Pruning after the tree is actively growing promotes smaller branches and more leaves, rather than the structural branches.
Hey Gardener Scott, I love your work. When you are planting your trees it appears you mulch them, but pretty lightly, just filling the pit you made with your soil. On another video you said to encourage a fungal environment around your trees, using mulch. Others have advised me to mulch heavily around fruit trees, and to make a sort of high circle of mulch, like you did with your soil. It also appears you mulch right up to the trunk, which I have heard isn't wise. I am sure you have good reasons, can you explain them to me please?
Thanks! I started with a small amount of mulch to help me monitor the amount of water in the circle around the tree while it was beginning to grow. Since then I have added thick wood chip mulch in the entire area between the trees. A light mulch up to the trunk is okay, but thicker mulch can encourage pests like rodents to burrow under the chips and chew on the young bark. Once the trees are bigger with thicker bark it is less of a concern and more mulch can be used.
Perfect! Thanks again.
I planted a bare root Goji berry bush about 4 weeks ago, and I'm seeing what look like new shoots coming from the roots, but there's still no sign of leaves on the main stem. Should I be concerned?
It's probably good. Goji sends up lots of new shoots and often the old stem won't bud in a bare root. The new growth is a good sign.
What do you recommend for a Vietnam Cherry tree?
Hi Scott! In the past, I’ve heard not to put the mulch directly against the tree because it will keep the trunk wet and cause issues. I see you put the mulch all around and all the way to the tree. Is there a time when you don’t do that? Or did I get some bad info? Thanks so much! Looking forward to adding fruit trees to my garden!
You are correct. Left a lengthy but nonetheless full account. :)
You are right. I cut out that part of the video because it was long. The mulch should be removed from the trunk to avoid possible rot and to keep rodents from having a safe place to eat the trunk.
@Gardener Scott - Thank you for clarifying! I enjoy your channel very much and I’m learning a lot!
Gardener Scott I have an apple tree that I planted in the fall of 2021. Last month my young dog broke off all four branches that were perfectly placed for a vase shape tree. Now I am left with just a trunk. If I make a heading cut, will the tree grow new branches? I’m worried without branches the tree may die since it won’t have any leaves when it comes out of dormancy. PLEASE help!!!! Thanks in advance
Edit: will I need to do notching for new branches to grow or would making a heading cut alone work?
My dog did that too. A heading cut should stimulate new side branches. There's no guarantee that they'll be in perfect placement, but it's worth a try. The new branches should have enough leaves to support initial growth and you might want to limit pruning until the tree recovers.
Scott, I saw another tree planting video in which it is recommended to plant the graft point north to protect it from the sun. I suppose this depends where you are located. This video was from someone in California. Are you in an area where the sun is stronger in the south? I’m in zone 7A and expecting my tree delivery any day, I want to make sure the graft point is pointing the safest direction.
While the graft point begins as a weak spot, after a few years the bark has grown to protect it just like any other part of the trunk. The issue may be more about protecting it from a freeze-thaw cycle in some cold regions and not from the sun. I wrap my trees with white tree wrap or use a plastic sleeve to protect my young trees from the possible bark split that can happen.
@@GardenerScott thank you Scott, do you have any recommendations on staking young bare root fruit trees?
@@titanart6225 I generally don't stake the small ones. Bigger bare root trees in windy regions can benefit from two stakes with the tree lightly supported between them.
Do you have any advice for pruning and training them into a low hedge?
Use the same techniques to keep them at the size you want. Look for info on espalier. I have one video on that topic.
For planting trees, you said that down part should be toward south, why is that?
After you planted, you spread mulch? It isn't better spread compost instead of mulch?
In my region the south is the direction of the sun. Compost is a very good mulch but I don't have enough to cover the whole area with compost so I use a wood chip mulch.
Is it ok to plant trees in the fall...also what about spruce trees?
Yes. Fall planting can be good. Try to plant in early fall so the roots have time to begin growing before soil freezes.
I feel that most youtuber video showed planting trees in nice soft soil like yours. We have hard compacted clay soil with rocks. It's not that easy to just dig. I would have to prep the area with lot of water for couple of days to let it really soaked in then use shovel and start digging...even then, it's still not as easy as yours. Is there anything else I need to do to get the soil looser besides just watering it? Thank you.
My soil is far from soft and required a lot of soaking to dig in it. I use a thick layer of mulch after planting to help maintain soil moisture and gradually improve the soil as it decomposes.
@@GardenerScott Awesome, do you happen to know how long does it takes for wood chips to decompose? Thank you.
It depends on their size and moisture levels. In my dry area the base begins to decompose in a few months but the top is still whole after a couple years.
What brand of wood chip mulch do you recommend? The normal wood mulch has color and unnatural at all?
I don't use bagged wood chips so can't recommend a brand. Many of them are chipped shipping pallets and then dyed. I found a local service that chips up trees and branches and get my chips there. Many cities have similar services.
Gardener Scott Thank you! Very helpful. I will ask my local nursery store to see.
I live on very hard, rocky, clay soil. It's all fill from when my housing development was built. I was thinking about digging out a large trench and amending the soil to help increase drainage before planting my belgian fence espalier row of fruit trees, but I'm not sure if that soil amendment will help or hurt. Do you have any advice for my situation?
If you can do a large enough area where you expect roots to grow, you can amend the soil. Espalier trees tend to have smaller root systems and it can work.
You're a Jeff Bridges lookalike 😯
Can I prune my fruit trees (pear, plum and cherry) that have been put from bare root into pots since January? They have leaves and have budded. I didn't realise how much pruning was actually needed.
You can prune after the leaves appear, but that will produce more short branches and leaves. For structural pruning it's best to wait until the tree is dormant.
@@GardenerScott okay thanks. I'll leave them until autumn I take it
A Dave Wilson's Nursery video says if my cherry tree isn't grown in a bed, it'll most likely be dead in 3 years. He says it's also best for all fruit trees.
#2). I planted my fruit trees temporarily in their heavy cardboard pots. I have my reasons. If I decide to let them be permanent, will the roots eventually grow through the pots or should I de-pot and re-plant?
The experts at Dave's Nursery are among the best. The roots can grow outside the pot and will die at that point. If you see roots like that you should definitely re-pot to a larger size, unless you're actively pruning the tree and roots as part of your plan.
@@GardenerScott No,no. The trees IN THE POTS are already planted. I just planted them, mainly to protect them from winter rather than bring them inside.
Also, Dave's says the Citation root stock does better in clay soil but that they don't use that stock....and I know the tree is from Dave's.
I just happened to get a small plant from a nursery (by mail) yesterday that said I could plant their plant, cardboard pot and all. Hmm, guess I should ask "Dave's" about the tree pot being planted. I just thought that all plants came in the cardboard "plantable" pots now since the 3 trees and 2 grapevines came that way.
Gardener Scott, I have some fruit tree saplings that I have started from the fruit that I have eaten (except for the peach), I sprouted them in the fridge in 2018 winter and potted them in spring of 2019. My question is... My Honeycrisp tree/saplings are about 3 foot tall now and do not have side branches, it is currently April 27th of 2019, Is it to late to cut the branch about half way down to encourage branches on the sides? I am very new at fruit trees and really want them to do well. Your help would be much appreciated. Thank you.
It's not too late. You can expect new growth any time you prune. You may not want to cut that much off, but just enough to stimulate the growth.
@@GardenerScott Thank you for you quick reply.
23:45 Revenge of the peachtree, it grew back its central leader :)
How soon should you fertilize a tree after planting?
Stark Bro's suggests you can use a balanced fertilizer after bud-break until the end of June.
What is the best cut for a plum and a pear tree. Thanks.
Plums are usually either central leader of open center. Pears are usually central leader.
How to prune apple trees that had significant damage to the buds caused by deer and tips to control bugs infestation such as Japanese beetles.
I've had that problem. Prune back to a bud that wasn't damaged.
So if my fruit trees already have leaves on them its too late to do any of those cuts? Some have more than others
It's not for dead and diseased branches. But the growth of side branches is stimulated more by pruning when dormant.
Hi..I'm expecting a plum tree from Starkbros in November can I put it in ground that late in the year? I'm in zone 7
It should be fine. I prefer fall planting of trees.
@@GardenerScott I appreciate you...thanks a mill
I have an Asian Pear tree which has been in the ground for 2 years. I have noticed it get a lot of sprouts on the tree low to the ground which I cut off. They keep coming back and I cut them off again. What is going on ?
The root stock is trying to grow into a tree of its own. It might be caused by drought or other stresses on the tree. Keep cutting out those suckers.
I just planted two dwarf pear trees and two apple trees. all are starting to leaf out but one of the pears, my dwarf Bartlett 😟. still no leaves. I'm kinda sad. anyway to tell if it's still alive?
You can scrape away a little of the bark with your thumb to see if it's green, but have patience. Different trees will bud at different times.