Hi ! Everyone has an opinion. I find Stihl to be very pleasant to work with. They handle teardown and assemble and are very facinated constructed...for the most part. But many models and not everyone is easy...but thats the cool thing...to give yourself some challenges i think. Try 024 and 026...try 025... Easy to work with ! :-) Good machines. The big proff machinery with complex throttle and brake patent...can be too much of a challenge for an amateur...I agree.
Sorry, I mean can you get the oiler out without removing the worm gear? I'm guessing the worm gear has to come out to be able to get the oiler out?@@motordiverse1276
This is terrible rough work . Use a smaller screwdriver to remove the plastic bungs and clear your bench first…….it’s impossible to work under such conditions . Your doing a great service by posting and you are probably very gifted and sincere but working in a chaotic way is bringing you down . Well done on the video .
None of these oil pump replacement videos explain how to ensure the hole on the oil pump lines up nicely with the hole that receives the oil, from a "how deep to insert the pump" perspective. Many videos say to push it in until it won't go any further but on my Stihl MS211, that puts the pump in a position where it doesn't line up with the gears that are driving it. One would think Stihl would put some sort of stopper in the housing such that the pump couldn't be inserted too far/shallow. If I'm overlooking something, please let me know what it is....
@@motordiverse1276 plz help me understand how this generally works on stihl chainsaws. What exactly stops the pump from going beyond a specific depth? the pump nor the hole it goes in seems to have any "shoulder" or anything that would prevent it from being pushed all the way thru....i must be missing something.
@@DB-xp9px Hey ! I did mot think that deep on the matter. I guess the upper hole is smaller...the hole where you put the pump in. My english skills are limited also. Konkav pump... smaller on the top end...... There is a grade there...it might be that...is the stop activator he he. Push it in to the end...to it bottoms. Ok Hey...You really think through the things. Some call some thinking....overthinking also he he ! Good luck with you mechanics ! :-) Cool when it works as supposed too ! I think.
@@motordiverse1276 SOLVED: so for anyone reading this post down the road, i wanted to tell u what happened so maybe it would provide u with a clue. the local chainsaw repair "pro" got my chainsaw oil lube flowing again - all he did was take the oil cap off and put it on its side for 20 mins. said it was "air locked" which i guess happens when u take it all apart to figure out why it wasn't oiling the bar/chain in the 1st place. sounds like i fixed the original problem but in doing so, created this odd secondary "air lock" problem that none of the youtubers nor anyone online mentioned could happen when u introduce air into the oil's pathway. i'm a little confused why this wouldn't happen anytime u're out cutting wood and run out of oil in your reserve tank. maybe someone can explain that.....
@@DB-xp9px Hey ! That is a very interesting topic...i think. But I am not that skilled in the details about air lock and fluid transport, vacuum, sentrifugal power... and how it works in the smallest details. I want to share how it can be mounted and fixed with relative cheap instruments. As in general...knowledge ob how to repair on smal gasoline engines...is for many... a necessety or of importance. To share for free is what I sometimes can do and are very pleased for all i self has learned on how to do...here on sharing platforms and youtube particular. Hmm I heard many peoples talk about air loops or lock...in many connections to mechanical engines and the fluid that circulates or goes from A to B. I am not too much expert on the topic, but can imagine such, often has an impact and influence...many situations with mechanic and fluid transportation. Especially after rebuilt i would think. When every chamber is empty and every valve is not passed ...yet. There is many things here in this tema...but mostly...it works out as it is expected to do. Air locks can may be...give some irregularities from time to time and make a man scratch his head...he he and suddenly it starts to work as expected anyway ha ha. I guess the more subtile wisdome...comes with experience he he ! Always good to have more than one saw...if you dream of having a smooth working day...with sawing.. You never know with mechanics ! he he he
Second thought...hmm if burned into the crank...it might would... Forcing the clutch to move and than activate the chain... Maybe. As i say...never thought about that possibility.
I have stihl ms180. Clutch spring is good, all three. The thread of the worm gear is a little mess but not too much. The sprocket doesn't spin freely, I have change the bearing and installed a new sprocket, still it auto spins when started
Hey ! Could be many reasons... Blocking...air leak... Wright english...would j help. Open it...inspect...change parts. Easy. Does worm gear attack the drum of clutch ? Wrong montage ? Many things. There can be damage in chazzis makein air leak...
Rubbish. I found it crystal clear and better with no waffle and irritating umms and errs, like on most videos here. Play it over and over if you can't see what is going on.
Near the location of the little oiler gear on the bottom of the saw is the hole which shows the direction for the gear. Does anything go in that hole or is it open on purpose as a drain? Great video by the way
@@motordiverse1276 it would be good to tell people they have to line up the worm drive hole to the mark ,and the oil hose to be lined up with the flat end
@@tadeuszmichaelwlodarczyk3120 You right. Guess I was too nervous in the beginning. Now i feel more skilled and has enough experience to talk with some confident. Big audience you know...potentially... and need to have som overview and feel some degree of deserment he he. Have learned graduatly. he he he
@@motordiverse1276 gradually you will get THEIR inter acting is the way to go Good luck 👍. I'm from Melbourne AUSTRALIA 🤠. Good example theirs a guy on you tube called donyboy 73. You too can be like him he does chain saw shows but their a Few year's Old.
@@tadeuszmichaelwlodarczyk3120 Learned much from him. I think he learned me how to change cylinder and carburetor on Stihl 026...and I knew nothing about assemble saws. Thats where I started...back in winter 2016/ 2017. I had only that saw than...and a job to be done. But it was light scorne and the dealer messed up diagnose and offered at the end to fix it for 400 dollar. I fixed it for 21 dollar with parts from China ! Iun was fun and an upward experience...so...it became something i spent time and focus on and also did money on... Many good thing came out of that...skills that is helpful to have on contryside and some business and so many good saws and brands and so many cool ones. :-)
Excellent video! No waffle and constant umms and errs, just pure visual clear information. Thanks very much.
Thx for cool words ! You welcome of course ! Have succsess with you maintenance ! :-)
Perfect video and thanks for your help
Thx!Youarewelcome!:-)
Just did mine, worked a treat, cheers.
Very helpful, thank you
Outstanding! THanks!
Thanks for posting
What size screw is that you put in the oil pump to get it out and back in
Hi! Think it is ordinary M5
Good repair. I personally never accep Stilh because they are difficult to wrench on compared to the sweden saws
Hi ! Everyone has an opinion. I find Stihl to be very pleasant to work with. They handle teardown and assemble and are very facinated constructed...for the most part. But many models and not everyone is easy...but thats the cool thing...to give yourself some challenges i think. Try 024 and 026...try 025... Easy to work with ! :-) Good machines. The big proff machinery with complex throttle and brake patent...can be too much of a challenge for an amateur...I agree.
Witch way do you turn the cog?
Cog ?
Can you replace the oiler without removing all the other stuff? Or does that stuff have to be out for you to be able to push the new oiler in?
Hey ! I think you have to push the handle out of the way...as I remember.
Sorry, I mean can you get the oiler out without removing the worm gear? I'm guessing the worm gear has to come out to be able to get the oiler out?@@motordiverse1276
Yes...need to take out ...protect the gear on wormgear...An mount wormgear back after ...! :-)@@SupersamProduction
This is terrible rough work .
Use a smaller screwdriver to remove the plastic bungs and clear your bench first…….it’s impossible to work under such conditions .
Your doing a great service by posting and you are probably very gifted and sincere but working in a chaotic way is bringing you down .
Well done on the video .
Thx ! :-)
None of these oil pump replacement videos explain how to ensure the hole on the oil pump lines up nicely with the hole that receives the oil, from a "how deep to insert the pump" perspective. Many videos say to push it in until it won't go any further but on my Stihl MS211, that puts the pump in a position where it doesn't line up with the gears that are driving it. One would think Stihl would put some sort of stopper in the housing such that the pump couldn't be inserted too far/shallow. If I'm overlooking something, please let me know what it is....
Hey ! As far as I know...you push it to it gets to the bottom....on Stihl 0170. Never worked on 211.
@@motordiverse1276 plz help me understand how this generally works on stihl chainsaws. What exactly stops the pump from going beyond a specific depth? the pump nor the hole it goes in seems to have any "shoulder" or anything that would prevent it from being pushed all the way thru....i must be missing something.
@@DB-xp9px Hey ! I did mot think that deep on the matter. I guess the upper hole is smaller...the hole where you put the pump in. My english skills are limited also. Konkav pump... smaller on the top end...... There is a grade there...it might be that...is the stop activator he he. Push it in to the end...to it bottoms. Ok Hey...You really think through the things. Some call some thinking....overthinking also he he ! Good luck with you mechanics ! :-) Cool when it works as supposed too ! I think.
@@motordiverse1276 SOLVED: so for anyone reading this post down the road, i wanted to tell u what happened so maybe it would provide u with a clue. the local chainsaw repair "pro" got my chainsaw oil lube flowing again - all he did was take the oil cap off and put it on its side for 20 mins. said it was "air locked" which i guess happens when u take it all apart to figure out why it wasn't oiling the bar/chain in the 1st place. sounds like i fixed the original problem but in doing so, created this odd secondary "air lock" problem that none of the youtubers nor anyone online mentioned could happen when u introduce air into the oil's pathway. i'm a little confused why this wouldn't happen anytime u're out cutting wood and run out of oil in your reserve tank. maybe someone can explain that.....
@@DB-xp9px Hey ! That is a very interesting topic...i think. But I am not that skilled in the details about air lock and fluid transport, vacuum, sentrifugal power... and how it works in the smallest details. I want to share how it can be mounted and fixed with relative cheap instruments. As in general...knowledge ob how to repair on smal gasoline engines...is for many... a necessety or of importance. To share for free is what I sometimes can do and are very pleased for all i self has learned on how to do...here on sharing platforms and youtube particular. Hmm I heard many peoples talk about air loops or lock...in many connections to mechanical engines and the fluid that circulates or goes from A to B. I am not too much expert on the topic, but can imagine such, often has an impact and influence...many situations with mechanic and fluid transportation. Especially after rebuilt i would think. When every chamber is empty and every valve is not passed ...yet. There is many things here in this tema...but mostly...it works out as it is expected to do. Air locks can may be...give some irregularities from time to time and make a man scratch his head...he he and suddenly it starts to work as expected anyway ha ha. I guess the more subtile wisdome...comes with experience he he ! Always good to have more than one saw...if you dream of having a smooth working day...with sawing.. You never know with mechanics ! he he he
Can a defect worm gear cause the auto spin of the chain?
No no no. The chain is driven by the clutch only ....
It would be kind of strange to me if it did...though... I never experienced that ! ...Hmm
Second thought...hmm if burned into the crank...it might would... Forcing the clutch to move and than activate the chain... Maybe. As i say...never thought about that possibility.
@@motordiverse1276 well can u suggest a good idea of how to solve the auto spin?
I have stihl ms180. Clutch spring is good, all three. The thread of the worm gear is a little mess but not too much. The sprocket doesn't spin freely, I have change the bearing and installed a new sprocket, still it auto spins when started
Dobrý deň pán. Mam takú pílu stihl a nemaže olej reťaz košická je čistá prefukana co môže byť chýba.
Hey ! Could be many reasons... Blocking...air leak... Wright english...would j help. Open it...inspect...change parts. Easy. Does worm gear attack the drum of clutch ? Wrong montage ? Many things. There can be damage in chazzis makein air leak...
Talk brother. It will not hurt
Not my choice of style on this type of video. For now. See and learn...is more my approach.
Rubbish. I found it crystal clear and better with no waffle and irritating umms and errs, like on most videos here. Play it over and over if you can't see what is going on.
Near the location of the little oiler gear on the bottom of the saw is the hole which shows the direction for the gear. Does anything go in that hole or is it open on purpose as a drain?
Great video by the way
You really need to narrate the pump change.
Rubbish. I found it crystal clear and better with no waffle and irritating umms and errs, like on most videos here.
You must be a mute,, otherwise not bad video
Yes...I choosed to be in the beginning. Found out later...there was need to talk.
@@motordiverse1276 it would be good to tell people they have to line up the worm drive hole to the mark ,and the oil hose to be lined up with the flat end
@@tadeuszmichaelwlodarczyk3120 You right. Guess I was too nervous in the beginning. Now i feel more skilled and has enough experience to talk with some confident. Big audience you know...potentially... and need to have som overview and feel some degree of deserment he he. Have learned graduatly. he he he
@@motordiverse1276 gradually you will get THEIR inter acting is the way to go Good luck 👍. I'm from Melbourne AUSTRALIA 🤠. Good example theirs a guy on you tube called donyboy 73. You too can be like him he does chain saw shows but their a Few year's Old.
@@tadeuszmichaelwlodarczyk3120 Learned much from him. I think he learned me how to change cylinder and carburetor on Stihl 026...and I knew nothing about assemble saws. Thats where I started...back in winter 2016/ 2017. I had only that saw than...and a job to be done. But it was light scorne and the dealer messed up diagnose and offered at the end to fix it for 400 dollar. I fixed it for 21 dollar with parts from China ! Iun was fun and an upward experience...so...it became something i spent time and focus on and also did money on... Many good thing came out of that...skills that is helpful to have on contryside and some business and so many good saws and brands and so many cool ones. :-)