Hmm very cool test. I will try oil. I did use windex at one point because i heard that somewhere. I think the late Cliff stamp covered oil amd water and the myths surrounding way back. I always used water because of the mess oil can cause.
I use grapeseed oil on my stones just because its food safe and you can get a big bottle for like $8. Before I decided to switch to food safe oil i used Remington Oil the stuff they use to lube and protect firearms.
@@stroppystuff641 ill give your product a try the next time i make an order for more 4 and 1 micron emulsion. Should be soon im about to make new strops. Ill give your product an honest review of both the oil and the emulsion but i can already say your sprays are the best on the market hands down.
@@vaguincolombia i don't like how viscous mineral oil is. Thats why i use a cooking oil. I also use 91% rubbing alcohol and a magic eraser to clean my stones after each use.
Can confirm, horrible diarrhea! Nah just kidding, I love this stuff, like i mentioned before, I use it on resin bonded/Arkansas stones and even on Coticules. Works great! What I noticed is that after you wipe the stones and put them away, the small bit of oil that is left, almost evaporates? Which for me, means that the drawer I store my stones in does not get oily/greasy.
yeah I find that it mostly dries off too, but it does seem to leave a very thin layer which you can feel but doesn't seem to spread onto things which is nice.
How does the magnesia bound stone crack with oil? What is "drying process" mentioned at 0:36? Shapton Pro stones are specifically designed to be used with oil or water according the packaging, although I don't think anyone actually uses oil on them.
Very good point as I haven't actually tried it for myself so I don't have hard facts. I believe the thought process is that if you've mixed oil and water then the stone can have different internal pressures as the oil is blocking the water from evaporating as the stone dries out unevenly internally and magnesia stones are already highly temperamental. If you Google "magnesia sharpening stone cracked" you'll see countless pages of them cracking during drying when using water alone. I believe that adding oil to the mix may make them even more susceptible but again this is just a theory and I shouldn't have started it as fact if I wasn't in a position to prove it.
I guess I will have to try your oil. I've been using Trend for the last couple of years and it performs very well. Yes it can be a very low toxic chemical but only in humans is swollowed and regurgitated and enters the lungs. Seems a non issue to me. I have no young children here nor do I drink my honing fluid. LOL!!! KnifeMaker/Retired after over 47+ years in the Craft and in association with original the R.W. Loveless-Jim Merritt Shop
High oleic oils are non toxic with a long shelf life, so that part is good which is important to me. However I found the performance to be lacking and also the greasy feel and feedback to be less suitable. Having said that I think they're better than some other oils available on the market. Thanks for the support 👍
What type of oil is it? I had thought most honing oils were some type of mineral oil, but you said plant based. MCT oil is the only thing I’ve found that doesn’t go rancid… but it still smells weird, lol.
Have you tried using your compound on a stone itself? Curious as to the result. Like people building a slurry on water stones. I believe your compound is mono diamond? Maybe that is not effective. Poly breaks down if i remember
I posted a video which goes over a very detailed study on mono Vs poly. It debunks the myths spread about Poly when used in the role of stropping. You should check it out
Vitrified are great for fast and coarse stones, resin are great for higher grit finishes. Vitrified load slower and work suitably with water. Resin load faster and really shine with a good oil rather than water.
@@stroppystuff641Thank you! Thats what i heard too. About oil, how does Ballistol compare? Still have a spray can laying around, are there noticable differences with more task specific oils on diamond plates? Also when people speak about a "1k edge" to still leave some tooth, how do quality diamond plates compare (not dmt with grit contamination)? Is for example a 2-3k diamond plate edge similar to what people mean when they say 1k stone edge? 😅 I would say im really decent at sharpening, i just didnt buy the fancy stuff the past few years, and now want to for time saving. Im thinking about the 8" sharpal 325/1200. As the diamond quality and price seems hard to beat. Im just wondering if the 1200 is optimal for finishing the 0.1mm 15dps wide microbevels i use. Or if a 2000-3000 is more suited. (10dps transition bevel behind the 15dps.)
@@sabelfechter7136 on electroplated you don't get much/any loading so oil isn't required. On resin loading can be a real problem. Ballistol isn't much better than water and is therefore not really worth the extra mess. It's worth experimenting with though, give it a try. A purpose selected honing oil is really key though, it fully unlocks the potential of the stone. (You won't get a sharper knife, but you'll have a more enjoyable sharpening experience)
It seems like you're wearing out your resin bonded stones much faster, which is why it works in the context here, which is loading. you're essentially slowly degrading the binder and increasing the friability with the oil. but yes the oil does work better for carrying the swarf as well. My thing is, I only mostly use resin bonded diamond stones in 400 and 1k, which have little to none loading with my stones. The 3k does load more as does the 4k/5k, but considering how slowly the 4/5k wears, oil seems like a good choice if you can't be bothered to use a fixing stone or want to turbo charge the stone. I like to use an alumina fixing stone and that works quite well with water on the resin diamond stones.
I think that's unlikely, resin bonded stones and grinding wheels are made from polyimide or phenolic resins. Polyimide are very resistant to solvents and other chemicals, Phenolic are also resistant to weak/mild acids, oils etc. My honing oil is a very mild solvent. I specifically made it to combine performance with safety. It's plant based, non toxic etc too.
Baby oil is a mineral oil and this isn't a mineral oil. I can't disclose what my main compound is as it's a trade secret. Mineral oils are not much better than water for use on resin bonded diamond stones. You can try and replicate what I did on this stone with your own mineral or baby oil and see how much the results differ. Sorry I can't disclose the secret :)
It's not a mineral oil it's completely different :) try doing the same thing in the video with mineral oil for comparison and you'll see the difference 👍
Very good visual representation coupled with good explanation. The differences are very clear. Nice work!
Thank you!
Dayuuumn 😱 awesome results!! Cant wait to test it 😁
Hope you like it!
That's some fast sharpening, must be due to your fast internet.
Well done on explaining / showing the different sides of using water / honing oil.
Fast internet! I can get all the patches I need now. Thanks for the support :)
Hmm very cool test. I will try oil. I did use windex at one point because i heard that somewhere. I think the late Cliff stamp covered oil amd water and the myths surrounding way back. I always used water because of the mess oil can cause.
Yes Cliff Stamp did cover oil/water usage on stones and debunked a lot of false claims commonly made. He posted a lot of great content.
I use grapeseed oil on my stones just because its food safe and you can get a big bottle for like $8. Before I decided to switch to food safe oil i used Remington Oil the stuff they use to lube and protect firearms.
yeah I'm a big fan of using food safe oils and anything non toxic really
@@stroppystuff641 ill give your product a try the next time i make an order for more 4 and 1 micron emulsion. Should be soon im about to make new strops. Ill give your product an honest review of both the oil and the emulsion but i can already say your sprays are the best on the market hands down.
Just mineral oil, it is safe to use. Those "natural oils" will harden overtime.
@@vaguincolombia i don't like how viscous mineral oil is. Thats why i use a cooking oil. I also use 91% rubbing alcohol and a magic eraser to clean my stones after each use.
Can confirm, horrible diarrhea! Nah just kidding, I love this stuff, like i mentioned before, I use it on resin bonded/Arkansas stones and even on Coticules. Works great! What I noticed is that after you wipe the stones and put them away, the small bit of oil that is left, almost evaporates? Which for me, means that the drawer I store my stones in does not get oily/greasy.
yeah I find that it mostly dries off too, but it does seem to leave a very thin layer which you can feel but doesn't seem to spread onto things which is nice.
I never looked back to water after I had switched to oil.
I'm glad you convinced me to try it. I won't be going back to water either
Does mineral oil work with these types of binders? How does mineral oil compare to your proprietary blend?
Mineral oil is about 50% as good at reducing loading from my tests, which is better than water. Maybe I'll make a comparison sometime
How does the magnesia bound stone crack with oil? What is "drying process" mentioned at 0:36? Shapton Pro stones are specifically designed to be used with oil or water according the packaging, although I don't think anyone actually uses oil on them.
Very good point as I haven't actually tried it for myself so I don't have hard facts. I believe the thought process is that if you've mixed oil and water then the stone can have different internal pressures as the oil is blocking the water from evaporating as the stone dries out unevenly internally and magnesia stones are already highly temperamental.
If you Google "magnesia sharpening stone cracked" you'll see countless pages of them cracking during drying when using water alone. I believe that adding oil to the mix may make them even more susceptible but again this is just a theory and I shouldn't have started it as fact if I wasn't in a position to prove it.
@@stroppystuff641 You might have a point about mixing, the packaging says "can be used as oil stone" only.
I guess I will have to try your oil. I've been using Trend for the last couple of years and it performs very well. Yes it can be a very low toxic chemical but only in humans is swollowed and regurgitated and enters the lungs. Seems a non issue to me. I have no young children here nor do I drink my honing fluid. LOL!!!
KnifeMaker/Retired after over 47+ years in the Craft and in association with original the R.W. Loveless-Jim Merritt Shop
Very good video
What's your thoughts on high oleic oil being sold
for this purpose? Thanks for your dedication to
the community.
High oleic oils are non toxic with a long shelf life, so that part is good which is important to me. However I found the performance to be lacking and also the greasy feel and feedback to be less suitable. Having said that I think they're better than some other oils available on the market. Thanks for the support 👍
Strop, thanks for the video, How to purchase the honing oil?
What type of oil is it? I had thought most honing oils were some type of mineral oil, but you said plant based. MCT oil is the only thing I’ve found that doesn’t go rancid… but it still smells weird, lol.
Have you tried using your compound on a stone itself? Curious as to the result. Like people building a slurry on water stones. I believe your compound is mono diamond? Maybe that is not effective. Poly breaks down if i remember
I posted a video which goes over a very detailed study on mono Vs poly. It debunks the myths spread about Poly when used in the role of stropping. You should check it out
@@stroppystuff641 Thanks. Will check it out
Your opinion on vitrified vs resin bounded diamond stones? 🤔
Vitrified are great for fast and coarse stones, resin are great for higher grit finishes.
Vitrified load slower and work suitably with water. Resin load faster and really shine with a good oil rather than water.
@@stroppystuff641Thank you! Thats what i heard too.
About oil, how does Ballistol compare? Still have a spray can laying around, are there noticable differences with more task specific oils on diamond plates?
Also when people speak about a "1k edge" to still leave some tooth, how do quality diamond plates compare (not dmt with grit contamination)? Is for example a 2-3k diamond plate edge similar to what people mean when they say 1k stone edge? 😅
I would say im really decent at sharpening, i just didnt buy the fancy stuff the past few years, and now want to for time saving.
Im thinking about the 8" sharpal 325/1200. As the diamond quality and price seems hard to beat. Im just wondering if the 1200 is optimal for finishing the 0.1mm 15dps wide microbevels i use. Or if a 2000-3000 is more suited.
(10dps transition bevel behind the 15dps.)
@@sabelfechter7136 on electroplated you don't get much/any loading so oil isn't required.
On resin loading can be a real problem. Ballistol isn't much better than water and is therefore not really worth the extra mess. It's worth experimenting with though, give it a try.
A purpose selected honing oil is really key though, it fully unlocks the potential of the stone. (You won't get a sharper knife, but you'll have a more enjoyable sharpening experience)
@@stroppystuff641Thanks!
(For plates i meant for better cutting not against loading.)
@@sabelfechter7136 plates don't much much difference tbh from my experience. They're extremely free cutting already
It seems like you're wearing out your resin bonded stones much faster, which is why it works in the context here, which is loading. you're essentially slowly degrading the binder and increasing the friability with the oil. but yes the oil does work better for carrying the swarf as well. My thing is, I only mostly use resin bonded diamond stones in 400 and 1k, which have little to none loading with my stones. The 3k does load more as does the 4k/5k, but considering how slowly the 4/5k wears, oil seems like a good choice if you can't be bothered to use a fixing stone or want to turbo charge the stone. I like to use an alumina fixing stone and that works quite well with water on the resin diamond stones.
I think that's unlikely, resin bonded stones and grinding wheels are made from polyimide or phenolic resins. Polyimide are very resistant to solvents and other chemicals, Phenolic are also resistant to weak/mild acids, oils etc. My honing oil is a very mild solvent. I specifically made it to combine performance with safety. It's plant based, non toxic etc too.
Whats the difference between your oil and baby oil?
Baby oil is a mineral oil and this isn't a mineral oil. I can't disclose what my main compound is as it's a trade secret. Mineral oils are not much better than water for use on resin bonded diamond stones. You can try and replicate what I did on this stone with your own mineral or baby oil and see how much the results differ. Sorry I can't disclose the secret :)
Mineral oil is so cheap though. Is your oil modified mineral oil or a different oil completely?
It's not a mineral oil it's completely different :) try doing the same thing in the video with mineral oil for comparison and you'll see the difference 👍
I’m looking for a tantrum in the comments 😂