I work in a public shop with a lot of other glue up artists. I watch these videos and they make me look like a genius. Now i will make some composite arrows. Thanks
I like the satisfying feeling I get when I make my arrows like this ,I make bamboo and river cane arrows too. You can double taper your arrows this way too
Gary, I know what you mean. It is nice to be able to work without all the noise and dust from power tools. My preference is for wood arrows. I like how durable bamboo is, but it is hard to make a matched set. Chuck S
Some of the first Douglas fir arrows I made were from 40 year old planks I salvaged from an old target butt stand, they certainly were good. I bought some Australian Beefwood from a local hard wood store, excellent wood. Great for footings and I also made a Hickory backed English Longbow (Pip Bickerstaffe's book) it performed very well.
I have seen that done. There was a thread on the Primitive Archery forum. I have not tried it, congratulations for completing a spiral footing, It is some very precise work. Chuck S.
Douglas fir is hard to beat. Nice to hear the floor boards work for you too. I once carefully picked a 4 x 4 Doug fir post, only to find most of it was worthless and weak. If you get a bad floor board you are only out about $3. Chuck S.
Very nice! Thank you for your presentation. I'd like to see your presentation of making your bamboo arrows. I have only produced cedar arrows but I do have other types I have not used yet.
Thanks. My first choice for wood is poplar, followed by douglas fir. Both a little heavier than cedar but more durable. I really like bamboo arrows, but they take a long time to make, and it is difficult to produce a matched set.
Hi. Great tutorial I would have preferred to see some of the wood cut from the inner faces of the hard wood to form more of a V to match the V on the other half of the joint. It reduces the stress in the footed timber
Hi Chris, nice to hear from you. I think a video about spine testers is a good idea. I will put something together in the next couple of weeks. Chuck S.
I vary the diameter depending on the wood species to achieve a 50-55lb spine. For example typically 5/16"-11/32" for hickory, 11/32" for Douglas Fire, 23/64 for Poplar or clear pine. I use the (3) sized bushings from my taper tool to check roundness. Chuck S
Extremely well-done video. I make and shot self arrows, but have always admired the footed shafts. Liked the method for tapering. Thanks for the presentation.
Another excellent video. I think you more than anyone have inspired my bowmaking hobby. Do you think you could do a video of how you spine an arrow shaft that you're making? I'd like to know how to do that because I've been wanting to make some arrows as well.
That is a great video, I had watched it quite awhile back. the dowel maker is a good idea, I never got around to buying one. I did set up a router table to make dowels, did not like it, too noisy, sawdust everywhere. Chuck S
I have not tried laminated bamboo, so I can't say for sure. I did have some laminated birch arrows that were heavy, and could not be straightened. It could be worth a try, you never know. For the footing I would go with something stronger, purpleheart, osage, hickory, etc. Birch alone mays a good arrow, but not as strong as the woods listed above. I would like to know how it works out if you try it. Chuck S
@mxred91 hay im making a bow in shop class as my finel project and you videos are going to help alot :) i was wondering what other wood could i use for the softer part of the arrow.
Great Video! I would like to try an make my own footed arrows but I am not sure what type of wood to use. Would Cedar for the soft wood and Hickory for the hard wood work? What about Cedar for soft wood and Red Oak for hard wood? I have limited wood choices. Also what size of Box Plane do you use?
don't think you mentioned it. but do you cut the footing blank across the grain like for a self knock? ive never made footed arrows, but the engineer in me thinks that if you cut along the grain the footing would simply split as soon as it hits a target as the softer shaft would act like a splitting wedge.
You make a good point, something I had not considered. I have not seen a footed shaft fail as you described, but it makes sense to orient the grain like a self nock. It is likely that the shear strength of the glue prevents immediate splitting. Chuck S
mxred91 you are probably correct about the glue surface area resisting the sheer forces placed on the joint. when i make a set of footed shafts i'll be sure to orient the grain across the cut for an added layer of safety. haha!
looks like you should do your glue up in the bath ! seriously though,full marks for explaining what you did. sharpen your plane till it will shave an atom !
Do you think I could use wild cherry for my footing or is it too brittle? I've got a board of it. Also, have you made four point footed shafts? I can't find any info, but I know they used to make them. Thanks
I've seen arrows with the 4 pointed footing on arrows ,have you checked out Richard Head longbows videos ,I believe there's a book on footed arrow ,I think its sold by 3 rivers archery
Rachel thanks for taking the time to watch the video. I am sorry you felt my comment about overly dramatic female statements was out of line. But, my wife and I have been married over 33 years, and she will admit she does that to make sure I listen. I did say after that, I make sure I pick up all the wood shavings. so it does work. She keeps me in line. Chuck S
You could, but it would probably be heavier than what you would like. I have made arrows from many types of wood, for just tough, it is hard to beat hickory. But a typical shaft will weigh 450-550 grains vs a Cedar shaft that typically is 275 - 350 grains. I typically shoot only bamboo arrows now. Chuck S
titebond 3 lets you work longer before it sets. it's amazing, actually. especially when you're doing something new and you don't know how long it will take.
For the soft wood (shaft) Port Orford Cedar, Douglas Fir, Poplar, and possibly clear pine will work (do not use Western Red Cedar, most is too weak) Tou could use most any hardwood for the footing, straight grain is most important. the plane I use is about 4" long, I bought it at Home Depot for about $7. Chuck S
I work in a public shop with a lot of other glue up artists. I watch these videos and they make me look like a genius. Now i will make some composite arrows. Thanks
Thanks..a lot easier than some of the others I've seen
I like the satisfying feeling I get when I make my arrows like this ,I make bamboo and river cane arrows too.
You can double taper your arrows this way too
Gary, I know what you mean. It is nice to be able to work without all the noise and dust from power tools. My preference is for wood arrows. I like how durable bamboo is, but it is hard to make a matched set.
Chuck S
Some of the first Douglas fir arrows I made were from 40 year old planks I salvaged from an old target butt stand, they certainly were good. I bought some Australian Beefwood from a local hard wood store, excellent wood. Great for footings and I also made a Hickory backed English Longbow (Pip Bickerstaffe's book) it performed very well.
I have seen that done. There was a thread on the Primitive Archery forum. I have not tried it, congratulations for completing a spiral footing, It is some very precise work.
Chuck S.
Douglas fir is hard to beat. Nice to hear the floor boards work for you too. I once carefully picked a 4 x 4 Doug fir post, only to find most of it was worthless and weak. If you get a bad floor board you are only out about $3.
Chuck S.
Very nice! Thank you for your presentation. I'd like to see your presentation of making your bamboo arrows. I have only produced cedar arrows but I do have other types I have not used yet.
Thanks. My first choice for wood is poplar, followed by douglas fir. Both a little heavier than cedar but more durable. I really like bamboo arrows, but they take a long time to make, and it is difficult to produce a matched set.
Great vid. You explained very well about what to do. Ill be trying myself on these pretty soon. Thanks
Your tapering method works great,thanks.
Great job, Chuck, thanks for shareing!
Hi. Great tutorial I would have preferred to see some of the wood cut from the inner faces of the hard wood to form more of a V to match the V on the other half of the joint. It reduces the stress in the footed timber
Hi Chris, nice to hear from you. I think a video about spine testers is a good idea. I will put something together in the next couple of weeks.
Chuck S.
I vary the diameter depending on the wood species to achieve a 50-55lb spine. For example typically 5/16"-11/32" for hickory, 11/32" for Douglas Fire, 23/64 for Poplar or clear pine. I use the (3) sized bushings from my taper tool to check roundness.
Chuck S
@Jaxson Derrick cool, glad it worked for you
Dude! This is SOOOO fricking cool! I want to do it!
Extremely well-done video. I make and shot self arrows, but have always admired the footed shafts. Liked the method for tapering.
Thanks for the presentation.
@13RuffRyder Poplar would be my first choice. White pine can also work, but is typically suited for lighter draw weight bows.
Chuck S.
Looks like a pool cue!
Good job! Thank you.
Another excellent video. I think you more than anyone have inspired my bowmaking hobby. Do you think you could do a video of how you spine an arrow shaft that you're making? I'd like to know how to do that because I've been wanting to make some arrows as well.
That is a great video, I had watched it quite awhile back. the dowel maker is a good idea, I never got around to buying one. I did set up a router table to make dowels, did not like it, too noisy, sawdust everywhere.
Chuck S
Nice Video, thanks !!
I have not tried laminated bamboo, so I can't say for sure. I did have some laminated birch arrows that were heavy, and could not be straightened. It could be worth a try, you never know. For the footing I would go with something stronger, purpleheart, osage, hickory, etc. Birch alone mays a good arrow, but not as strong as the woods listed above. I would like to know how it works out if you try it.
Chuck S
@mxred91 hay im making a bow in shop class as my finel project and you videos are going to help alot :) i was wondering what other wood could i use for the softer part of the arrow.
Great Video! I would like to try an make my own footed arrows but I am not sure what type of wood to use. Would Cedar for the soft wood and Hickory for the hard wood work? What about Cedar for soft wood and Red Oak for hard wood? I have limited wood choices. Also what size of Box Plane do you use?
I'm a little hurt about the female remark, but I am grateful that you made this video. Thanks
how do you think bamboo flooring boards would work as the base shaft with say Eucalyptus or birch as footings? I could do the opposite.
Do you normally make and shoot 11/32 arrows? How do you gauge the roundness of your arrows?
don't think you mentioned it. but do you cut the footing blank across the grain like for a self knock? ive never made footed arrows, but the engineer in me thinks that if you cut along the grain the footing would simply split as soon as it hits a target as the softer shaft would act like a splitting wedge.
You make a good point, something I had not considered. I have not seen a footed shaft fail as you described, but it makes sense to orient the grain like a self nock. It is likely that the shear strength of the glue prevents immediate splitting.
Chuck S
mxred91
you are probably correct about the glue surface area resisting the sheer forces placed on the joint. when i make a set of footed shafts i'll be sure to orient the grain across the cut for an added layer of safety. haha!
looks like you should do your glue up in the bath ! seriously though,full marks for explaining what you did.
sharpen your plane till it will shave an atom !
Do you think I could use wild cherry for my footing or is it too brittle? I've got a board of it. Also, have you made four point footed shafts? I can't find any info, but I know they used to make them. Thanks
I've seen arrows with the 4 pointed footing on arrows ,have you checked out Richard Head longbows videos ,I believe there's a book on footed arrow ,I think its sold by 3 rivers archery
Rachel thanks for taking the time to watch the video. I am sorry you felt my comment about overly dramatic female statements was out of line. But, my wife and I have been married over 33 years, and she will admit she does that to make sure I listen. I did say after that, I make sure I pick up all the wood shavings. so it does work. She keeps me in line.
Chuck S
Could you just make your arrows out of black walnut?
You could, but it would probably be heavier than what you would like. I have made arrows from many types of wood, for just tough, it is hard to beat hickory. But a typical shaft will weigh 450-550 grains vs a Cedar shaft that typically is 275 - 350 grains. I typically shoot only bamboo arrows now.
Chuck S
mxred91 I use only Hickory Drum sticks very strong. have you ever made a cross bow arrow/bolt?
T.C. Filbin Our archery club doe not allow crossbows, so I have not. Hickory drum sticks sound like a good idea.
Chuck S
titebond 3 lets you work longer before it sets. it's amazing, actually. especially when you're doing something new and you don't know how long it will take.
leloodallasmultipass I really should give it a try
Chuck S
For the soft wood (shaft) Port Orford Cedar, Douglas Fir, Poplar, and possibly clear pine will work (do not use Western Red Cedar, most is too weak) Tou could use most any hardwood for the footing, straight grain is most important. the plane I use is about 4" long, I bought it at Home Depot for about $7.
Chuck S