I own an electric motor shop in Michigan, and it was oddly satisfying watching you do that. Let me know if you ever have a motor you need repaired or rewound, and your willing to ship it lol. MORE MOTOR VIDEOS PLEASE!!
Watching these "real work" videos reminds me so much of my 20 years as a US Navy mechanic and working with the ship's Repair Division when I needed parts made. Good machinists and welders are worth their weight in gold, seriously.
My younger brother is a welder and I am currently studying in trade school to be a mechanic/ machinist. We are planning to make our own business in the future years.
Thank you so much for sharing this process! I think it is very educational for me to see how things are done, especially such work as this with accurate measurements. You’re very good at making satisfying videos, Laurie. Thanks again.
I do this same repair all the time. I enjoyed watching your process. I've changed how I do it, and now I bore the bell....rough turn and bore the sleeve to final size, and with the bearing in place, turn for a glue fit in the bell. Part it off with the bearing in place, and lock tite it in. I find great prices for Locktite on Ebay. I would probably charge $200 or more for one that size. BTW.....it's called a boring bar in my town. The slidey thing is called a carriage.....considering how Finish is related to Martian languages, and all other Earth languages are from this planet, Your English is perfect!
Josh Ward I do these all the time also. We can’t fit the brg. As they press the brg. On the rotor shaft first then tap fit the end shield . We have to loctite and Dutch key the sleeve in as they can come out of the end shield.
I love the way you explain what you're doing and how you solve little problems along the way without being all technical about it. I don't know why but I seem understand more with your accent.
I am not a machinist but do this sort of work in small scale with the Minilathe. And that is exactly the way I would do it. Inc the Green Loctite and the Mitutoyo calliper. I LOVE that inside micrometer! I use a bore guage. Sometimes it makes you wonder how they made the original part though. Start with a raw casting and have to machine all your centres.
Alwaysbebatman 122 Actually I used a Universaldrehmaschine, so pardon me for not translating a rather specialist tool completely right. It's not a word I come across often.
I hope the people you do work for pay you much for how the work you put into your parts. And I hope your wife finds fun with your work through your new channels. She could be good around the shop!
What you do is awsome! I work with calibrated stones. I'm a jeweler, and what you do is so much more technical than what I do. I can "fake", mine a bit more than you can. So cool. I love you guys. Anna, kind of rounds off your team, and she's so damn cut. Keep up the good work and I'm looking forward to seeing more.
It's interesting that you went with what we call a slip fit with bearing compound. We always use what we call a press fit. Where the bushing is one to two thousands over sized then we freeze the bushing in nitrogen to shrink it. It falls right in and when it warms up it's an extremely tight fit. We do use bearing compound sometimes but it's seems to be frowned upon unless absolutely necessary for some reason.
+Rictus I have done that also on some works for example when parts are exposed to heat that would destroy the glue. But glue is fastest method with these regular electric motor parts. Or you can also heat up the housing but usually the paint and grease would get on fire so that is also problem.
+Beyond the press After I wrote this I thought of another reason not to use a press fit. If the wall is too thin after it's been milled there would be a chance of cracking. Cool stuff your doing!
Lauri, so you're machining the work and at the same time translating from Finnish into English what you're doing. I can't do either one, much less do both at the same time. I don't think people appreciate how amazing that is.
I've watch every video you do and always am excited to see another I havn't seen! Quite enjoyed this as well! Only youtube channel I've ever been that way about. Keep up the great work, and keep putting it on youtube!
Thank you! This was interesting to watch. It's nice to see how these things are done, and I appreciate getting some insight in your normal workshop life. Keep up the cool videos, they are great! Kiitos paljon!
thank you for such a long video! some others might not like it, but please keep doing these. can we see next what hydraulic press is normally used for?
Not used to hearing metric in a machine shop lol I'm over here converting what your saying to inches . Nice work with the repair . I run a devlieg jig mill 4" spindle 60x36 table . And many lathes and other mills and bridgeports. Like you a jack of all machines in my shop as well as the welder for the shop
I love the main channel and this one too :) also at last a machining channel from europe where the metric system is used instead of the 3/125465465468 inch bs :D nice to hear mm and cm used :D
Decimal numeral systems are used by machinists everywhere. The only difference is the base unit, all the math is the same. Separate from that, fractions are basic year 3 math, all rational numbers are fractions and all practical measurements are rational numbers. Standard inch fractions are all base 2, same as your computer. Would it help if they used the term milli-inch instead of thousandth? They used mil in the past (still used for some product thickness, such as plastic bags or paint coatings) but the term mil has faded due to confusion with mm and um.
No need to be buthurt guys. Have been following loads of machining channels over the years and even experts (Americans) who do it 20+ years still struggle quite often with the imperial BS when doing complex things. I'm not a metric elitist but some things are just superior
+NRGMatrix Cutting steel is neat because the shavings will discolor depending on how hot they get. Tan-colored steel chips mean they come off warm (relatively) and blue chips mean they come off *really* hot.
Good stuff. I'm a machinist, also. Have those exact calipers. Only digitals worth buying. We have a digital mitutoyo version of that style bore gage at work in different sizes. I think they're good to .002mm.
Good job, most of my work is doing this for electrical motor repairs, I use loctite on the sleeve to but they also insist that the sleeve is “ Dutch keyed “ in 2 places before final machining for the brg. You can also use a “ take up” brg . Or internally knurl the bore if there isn’t enough wall thickness for a sleeve.
They are VERY expensive and you must buy a set which is VERY, VERY expensive. Thousands of dollars. I find a good set of telescope gages work great once you learn how to use them. A set of those costs less than $200.
Here I was watching this enjoying it but when he whipped out that Tri-mic that caught my attention. Those of you non machinists pay attention. That measurement he took at the end was within 0.0003” of his target. Really tight tolerances right there. Impressive.
+Colin Stuart The heat turns chips blue when you are not using the coolant. I don't like using the coolant with this or other not fully covered machines because it flies all over the place and if you stay under 150m/min cutting speed the cutting bit lasts very long even with out it.
That really deppends on where you are based at. Google says that machinist in finland gets an average wage of 1300€ ($1534) per month. Here, in the czech republic it would be around $1140. But you may go as high as $3000 deppending on the work you do (something that requires more skill will be better paid). Also, I think that they are family company and that is something completely different, especially if you do non-standart work.
Sure this new housing is exactly centered like the old one? At start you just use the casting - so all processed stuff after that has accuracy of the mold ... ?
+Dexter Treehorn I think it doesnt matter because if it is off a few hundreds of a mm it just gets compesated when reattaching it to the motor with the bolts
+Dexter Treehorn I used the same surface for first mounting that is used to connect housing to main frame of the motor. I check the centering with dial gauge but I didn't use the footage because I was standing on front of the camera most of that :D But the centering of those housings isn't very accurate job because the connection between housing and the main frame of the motor is quite loose and there is room for some error.
I would have enjoyed seeing you indicate that big old part. I'm so shit at centering stuff in the 3 jaw, i always enjoy watching people do it better than me
Three jaws that I know of are "self centering". They don't adjust. If you've got one in good shape you might have a gnats whisker of runout but one that's beat up and crusty inside can really go sideways on you. They're more about setting up quickly than absolute precision. You can adust each jaw individually on a four jaw. That being said, three jaw is fine for most jobs if it's not abused. If you need dead nuts precision you go with a four jaw and dial indicator. You can shim your piece in a three jaw if you have to but that can be hit or miss as well.
heliarche you can get 3 jaw chucks just as accurate as 4 jaws if you clock them in with an indicator. You just hit the outside of the jaws with an aluminium hammer to adjust runout. Similar to how you would tighten a a jaw on a 4 jaw to adjust it on a 3 jaw you just hit it, but only with soft hammer.
heliarche yeah haha it sounds dodgy but it works. I work in a tool and die shop and it's how I was taught and how all the other workers do it including the owner. I however have found on one chuck at work that if you tighten it using one specific position it will most times be within .02mm without having to adjust work runout.
Lauri, I'd love to see a video of you doing a temperature-based pressure fit, where you'd heat the outer part in order to get the cold insert to slide into place. I'm surprised that you would machine the inner diameter of one part and the outer diameter of the other to match. I thought you'd need a very slight overlap, so the fit would be tight, but I know nothing about machining.
Please, can I ask...why didn't you use a brass hammer, or a piece of wood with your "regular" mallet? Doesn't using your regular tool tear up the edge of that spacer you put in?? Wouldn't that make it harder to insert the bearing, or introduce tiny pieces of metal when you are pressing the bearing back in due to the dents you made in the spacer? Thanks for reading. Love both of your channels. I hope you answer.
What do you think?? Projects like this. He probably pressed the bearing into this piece he made with either a hand press, or the big one on the main channel.
is there any easier cheaper way? I have a motor with 2 inch OD shaft bearings 1inch ID I think a metric was the closest replacement I could find. Both old and new fit loosely. They're like a slipfit plus 1thou maybe. I don't want to mess up my castings if there's an epoxy method or something that might be worth trying. I don't know what the best fix is for me. The motor runs smooth on a VFD under 55 Hz but over that and I get a vibration (that might not be the loose bearings given there a VFD involved) it's a 1hp 3 phase Century motor. Thanks in advance if anyone has advice.
Shouldn't it be interference fit? Insert machined slightly bigger than hole then frozen while housing is heated up. Temperature difference make it possible to press one ito another. When temperature of both equalize they are inseparable(your press probably could separate them). That is process required by ABB(Finnish manufacturer) in restoration of their motors. Repairs using glue are usually failing within a year.
Sasquatch we get end shields that other engineering company’s have repaired and your right the sleeve can slide out that’s why we make them a tap fit with loctite then Dutch key in 2 places @ 180 degree . Then finish bore last opp. Never comes out. 👍
thank you for that lesson you gave me a idea on how to repair box fans that the berrings seized up in it which is make it bigger for the sleve and press that in and then the new berring back home ii use my box fan year round if i can fix it and save me money on a new fan i usually go thru 2 or 3 a year
He can use a metal hammer because he still had to machine the surface he was hitting that way a more direct force was being applied as the rubber hammer would have bounced back and he would have lost the kinetic energy needed to get the ring to meet up with the housing.
NickiLasse he'd left some sacrificial metal sticking out. It looked like about a cm. maybe I'd have used a copper mallet but it's really not so important.
I'm trying to figure out where he secured the jaws of the chuck during the first stage of machining the flats to secure it for the next step. In my mind he should have secured them to the inside of the old bearing surface to keep everything concentric to that hole but I can't see any chuck jaws in there. They might be there though. But I'm a novice and I could have missed something obvious
The jaws are securing the housing from the inside edge of the casing by pushing outwards. Only real available bearing surface given the shape and I guess he doesn't have any interchangable forks or anything for his laythe.
That bearing housing is fairly small compared to a lot of motors. Motors are used in loads of different applications anything from roller coasters to food mixers.
I very much enjoy your channels and this video. And wonder why could you not have purchased a bearing with a larger outside diameter, then machined the motor housing to fit the new bearing? (You did need to replace the bearing anyway. Yes?) Danke schön für alles.
I used to work in an electric motor repair shop.....boring and bushing an endbell in a three jaw chuck would get you run off quicker than hammering on cast iron!
Probably not enough material before he would start to interfere with the threaded holes. Looks like maybe 8mm clearance from those holes and he probably can't source a bearing that size.
18:35 This edge is extremely sharp and dangerous, and will attack at any time. So we must deal with it.
*ominous sound of hydraulic press powering up*
I could watch you make/fix parts on that lathe all day. I absolutely love watching you work on it.
I own an electric motor shop in Michigan, and it was oddly satisfying watching you do that. Let me know if you ever have a motor you need repaired or rewound, and your willing to ship it lol. MORE MOTOR VIDEOS PLEASE!!
Watching these "real work" videos reminds me so much of my 20 years as a US Navy mechanic and working with the ship's Repair Division when I needed parts made. Good machinists and welders are worth their weight in gold, seriously.
My younger brother is a welder and I am currently studying in trade school to be a mechanic/ machinist. We are planning to make our own business in the future years.
This is the kind of work I find myself doing more and more of. Why is it so fab watching other people doing it? 😊
Thank you so much for sharing this process! I think it is very educational for me to see how things are done, especially such work as this with accurate measurements. You’re very good at making satisfying videos, Laurie. Thanks again.
I have never been more mesmerized watching someone just doing their daily shtick.
I do this same repair all the time. I enjoyed watching your process. I've changed how I do it, and now I bore the bell....rough turn and bore the sleeve to final size, and with the bearing in place, turn for a glue fit in the bell. Part it off with the bearing in place, and lock tite it in. I find great prices for Locktite on Ebay. I would probably charge $200 or more for one that size. BTW.....it's called a boring bar in my town. The slidey thing is called a carriage.....considering how Finish is related to Martian languages, and all other Earth languages are from this planet, Your English is perfect!
Josh Ward I do these all the time also. We can’t fit the brg. As they press the brg. On the rotor shaft first then tap fit the end shield . We have to loctite and Dutch key the sleeve in as they can come out of the end shield.
I love the way you explain what you're doing and how you solve little problems along the way without being all technical about it.
I don't know why but I seem understand more with your accent.
Am I the only one who enjoys these videos way more than the ones where you crush random stuff..?
I am not a machinist but do this sort of work in small scale with the Minilathe. And that is exactly the way I would do it. Inc the Green Loctite and the Mitutoyo calliper. I LOVE that inside micrometer! I use a bore guage.
Sometimes it makes you wonder how they made the original part though. Start with a raw casting and have to machine all your centres.
This was really interesting. I've used a laithe before, but never for 'real' work, so it was fascinating to see how you go about it.
You may have used a lathe before, but you've never spelled it.
Alwaysbebatman 122
Actually I used a Universaldrehmaschine, so pardon me for not translating a rather specialist tool completely right. It's not a word I come across often.
I hope the people you do work for pay you much for how the work you put into your parts.
And I hope your wife finds fun with your work through your new channels. She could be good around the shop!
What you do is awsome! I work with calibrated stones. I'm a jeweler, and what you do is so much more technical than what I do. I can "fake", mine a bit more than you can. So cool. I love you guys. Anna, kind of rounds off your team, and she's so damn cut. Keep up the good work and I'm looking forward to seeing more.
Great video, and excelent job. You shouldn't mute the sound of metal machining, I absolutely love it
Your English is very good and your explanations are really helpful, thank you for the videos.
It would be great to see a shop tour with your father. I'm intrigued by all these huge machines! So cool.
It's interesting that you went with what we call a slip fit with bearing compound. We always use what we call a press fit. Where the bushing is one to two thousands over sized then we freeze the bushing in nitrogen to shrink it. It falls right in and when it warms up it's an extremely tight fit. We do use bearing compound sometimes but it's seems to be frowned upon unless absolutely necessary for some reason.
+Rictus
I have done that also on some works for example when parts are exposed to heat that would destroy the glue. But glue is fastest method with these regular electric motor parts. Or you can also heat up the housing but usually the paint and grease would get on fire so that is also problem.
+Beyond the press After I wrote this I thought of another reason not to use a press fit. If the wall is too thin after it's been milled there would be a chance of cracking.
Cool stuff your doing!
We always make the sleeve a tap in fit with loctite then Dutch key in 2 places then finish bore last opp.
instead of hammering the new disk in the bearing housing, he could have used a hydraulic press.
I enjoyed watching a master craftsman at work. After all of that exacting work, one can understand why you would want to crush something afterwards.
Your quick change tool post is very interesting. Different than what we use in the United States.
+Rich Bergstrom His is the same as the most common ones here in New Zealand. Do you know the name/type of the ones often used in USA?
It's generally called an Aloris style tool post.
Patrick Rebecca Doohan yes we have them at work I can't remember the brand.
Can you do a video on all your precise measuring tools you have?
+brandon schmidt
I think that would be nice video. We have some really large measuring tools for our big lathe
+Beyond the press Looking forward to see them !
+Beyond the press Please don't just show them but also quickly demonstrate how do you use them. Thank you.
+Beyond the press let's see all your thread mics and gauge blocks and dial indicators and depth gauges :)
Electric Lathe Channel... lathe open a battery etc...
Lauri, so you're machining the work and at the same time translating from Finnish into English what you're doing. I can't do either one, much less do both at the same time. I don't think people appreciate how amazing that is.
that was very interesting. all the comedy aside, its good to see a serious machinist at work.
I've watch every video you do and always am excited to see another I havn't seen! Quite enjoyed this as well! Only youtube channel I've ever been that way about. Keep up the great work, and keep putting it on youtube!
Thank you! This was interesting to watch. It's nice to see how these things are done, and I appreciate getting some insight in your normal workshop life. Keep up the cool videos, they are great! Kiitos paljon!
thank you for such a long video! some others might not like it, but please keep doing these.
can we see next what hydraulic press is normally used for?
+Zach
I film some work with press as soon as I do something with it.
Watching these work videos is somewhat soothing.
13:02 "use hammer and make fit" i use that saying quite often when building stuff
18:44 "this edge is extremely sharp" - and I expected the sentence to continue with "and it might attack at any time, so we must deal with it..." :-D
Not used to hearing metric in a machine shop lol I'm over here converting what your saying to inches . Nice work with the repair . I run a devlieg jig mill 4" spindle 60x36 table . And many lathes and other mills and bridgeports. Like you a jack of all machines in my shop as well as the welder for the shop
"My phone is ringing, we must deal with that" :)
In four years, Lauri has become a so much better English speaker!
Great video. I'm a fan of HPC but also Abom79, so this video is like both channels mixed together
I really enjoy these work videos, it's just out of the ordinary for me ;D
I really like the real work videos, thank you for sharing.
+AvE would love this. Both bearings AND lathes
I love watching him work more than I do pressing stuff !
Incredible work. I'd love to work in your shop for a week!
Is this one of your first videos before you went full time on TH-cam? Dope!
I loved this video. Please make more of these educational videos.
That was amazing. Please get a camera to point directly at the cutting edge.
I love the main channel and this one too :) also at last a machining channel from europe where the metric system is used instead of the 3/125465465468 inch bs :D nice to hear mm and cm used :D
Decimal numeral systems are used by machinists everywhere. The only difference is the base unit, all the math is the same. Separate from that, fractions are basic year 3 math, all rational numbers are fractions and all practical measurements are rational numbers. Standard inch fractions are all base 2, same as your computer.
Would it help if they used the term milli-inch instead of thousandth? They used mil in the past (still used for some product thickness, such as plastic bags or paint coatings) but the term mil has faded due to confusion with mm and um.
bametje88 I worked lathes and cnc mills in America and we used metric...what's your point
there is always a metric elitist
herpherpbrocolli Not too elite if they don't understand fractions and other basic math.
No need to be buthurt guys. Have been following loads of machining channels over the years and even experts (Americans) who do it 20+ years still struggle quite often with the imperial BS when doing complex things. I'm not a metric elitist but some things are just superior
Why are all the cuttings blue? is it from heating?
+NRGMatrix yes
+NRGMatrix Cutting steel is neat because the shavings will discolor depending on how hot they get. Tan-colored steel chips mean they come off warm (relatively) and blue chips mean they come off *really* hot.
Good stuff. I'm a machinist, also. Have those exact calipers. Only digitals worth buying. We have a digital mitutoyo version of that style bore gage at work in different sizes. I think they're good to .002mm.
+Mike Skipworth +1 on those calipers, the coolant proof Mitutoyo's are worth every $.
That was fascinating Lauri, thanks. Thumbs up.
Good job, most of my work is doing this for electrical motor repairs, I use loctite on the sleeve to but they also insist that the sleeve is “ Dutch keyed “ in 2 places before final machining for the brg. You can also use a “ take up” brg . Or internally knurl the bore if there isn’t enough wall thickness for a sleeve.
"Next time we crush.... Kimi Räikkönen's Ferrari!"
pls dont
LOL so funny, but, u cant Crush Kimis car, its made of Sisu ;)
Fuck me, that 3-point micrometer is great. I'm surprised that I haven't seen @Abom79 using those yet....!
They are VERY expensive and you must buy a set which is VERY, VERY expensive. Thousands of dollars. I find a good set of telescope gages work great once you learn how to use them. A set of those costs less than $200.
Prostheta and that one doesn't even look digital...
Loistava video. Meni puoli tuntia yhdessä hujauksessa. Aina kiva nähdä ammattilainen työssään.
Here I was watching this enjoying it but when he whipped out that Tri-mic that caught my attention. Those of you non machinists pay attention. That measurement he took at the end was within 0.0003” of his target. Really tight tolerances right there. Impressive.
I enjoyed watching this, thanks for making these kind of videos also.
Very interesting video. Keep up the good work!
Is this your own shop or do you work there?
+spankmeister his own shop.... i think he inherited the shop from his dad
+spankmeister
It is our family business. My dad works also there.
Beyond the press Ah I see. Because I sometimes hear someone else working in the background. You have a very well equipped shop. :)
+spankmeister and what you father says about to work in the lathe with that gloves? because mine could probably slap me in the face.
Why is that? I would loose a glove instead of finger.
Really interesting to see how a damaged bearing seat is repaired. I usually only see them in damaged form
why do the shavings look blue? A quick guess is because the heat causes them to change color? or maybe because of the light hitting it?
+Colin Stuart
The heat turns chips blue when you are not using the coolant. I don't like using the coolant with this or other not fully covered machines because it flies all over the place and if you stay under 150m/min cutting speed the cutting bit lasts very long even with out it.
Love this stuff! Keep making these videos too and I will watch!
Great video. Very well presented.
Without machinists we would all be banging sticks and stones together.
You are such a metal pimp!! More vids like this, Your the best man!!
What is pay like for this kind of work? Looks kind of fun to me.
That really deppends on where you are based at. Google says that machinist in finland gets an average wage of 1300€ ($1534) per month. Here, in the czech republic it would be around $1140. But you may go as high as $3000 deppending on the work you do (something that requires more skill will be better paid). Also, I think that they are family company and that is something completely different, especially if you do non-standart work.
Sure this new housing is exactly centered like the old one?
At start you just use the casting - so all processed stuff after that has accuracy of the mold ... ?
+Dexter Treehorn I think it doesnt matter because if it is off a few hundreds of a mm it just gets compesated when reattaching it to the motor with the bolts
+Dexter Treehorn He probably centered it off camera. I cant imagine he would forget something essential like that...
+Dexter Treehorn I was thinking exactly the same :/
+Dexter Treehorn
I used the same surface for first mounting that is used to connect housing to main frame of the motor. I check the centering with dial gauge but I didn't use the footage because I was standing on front of the camera most of that :D But the centering of those housings isn't very accurate job because the connection between housing and the main frame of the motor is quite loose and there is room for some error.
+Beyond the press
OK ;)
Thank you for sharing interesting stuff from your work!
Great job in crafting and youtubing ;)
That was cool. Maybe you should get into making more videos of your work, not just the play. Don't get me wrong I love the play, it's a blast!
I wish i had a workshop like this :/
I would have enjoyed seeing you indicate that big old part. I'm so shit at centering stuff in the 3 jaw, i always enjoy watching people do it better than me
Three jaws that I know of are "self centering". They don't adjust. If you've got one in good shape you might have a gnats whisker of runout but one that's beat up and crusty inside can really go sideways on you. They're more about setting up quickly than absolute precision. You can adust each jaw individually on a four jaw. That being said, three jaw is fine for most jobs if it's not abused. If you need dead nuts precision you go with a four jaw and dial indicator. You can shim your piece in a three jaw if you have to but that can be hit or miss as well.
heliarche you can get 3 jaw chucks just as accurate as 4 jaws if you clock them in with an indicator. You just hit the outside of the jaws with an aluminium hammer to adjust runout. Similar to how you would tighten a a jaw on a 4 jaw to adjust it on a 3 jaw you just hit it, but only with soft hammer.
Good luck with that. Stay away from my lathe...
heliarche yeah haha it sounds dodgy but it works. I work in a tool and die shop and it's how I was taught and how all the other workers do it including the owner. I however have found on one chuck at work that if you tighten it using one specific position it will most times be within .02mm without having to adjust work runout.
BlahBlahMoose
Well, if it works it's perfect I guess. I'll stick with a four jaw for the finicky stuff.
Lauri, I'd love to see a video of you doing a temperature-based pressure fit, where you'd heat the outer part in order to get the cold insert to slide into place. I'm surprised that you would machine the inner diameter of one part and the outer diameter of the other to match. I thought you'd need a very slight overlap, so the fit would be tight, but I know nothing about machining.
Im very proud of your family business, work hard and play even HARDER! ;-)
Where do you get your overalls? I have been looking for some like that for my shop a LONG time...
This was great. much more interesting than most of what I do
Anyone know the size of the hydraulic press?
Please, can I ask...why didn't you use a brass hammer, or a piece of wood with your "regular" mallet? Doesn't using your regular tool tear up the edge of that spacer you put in?? Wouldn't that make it harder to insert the bearing, or introduce tiny pieces of metal when you are pressing the bearing back in due to the dents you made in the spacer? Thanks for reading. Love both of your channels. I hope you answer.
planetrob555 he machined off that edge in the end to make it flush with the motor housing. Any dents or dings are gone.
Wouldn't you be able to do a cryo/heat shrink-fit on the bearing insert?
"I can still use hammer and make fit" lol fucking elvish poetry
I very much enjoyed watching this.
Seeing someone running a lathe with gloves....gives me the shakes
Excellent machine shop skills
What if one of those tools fell into the lathe while it spins?
What is the hydraulic press used for in real life?
What do you think?? Projects like this. He probably pressed the bearing into this piece he made with either a hand press, or the big one on the main channel.
But he used a hammer in this video.
If the newly glued ring corrodes, cracks, or otherwise needs replacement? how is it removed? Is it machined off? Special glue solvent?
Better of buying a new motor then i suppose :)
it's usually machined off, but you can kill the glue with fire :D
They just press it out
The glue will also uninstall if you run your motor with too high current!
is there any easier cheaper way? I have a motor with 2 inch OD shaft bearings 1inch ID I think a metric was the closest replacement I could find. Both old and new fit loosely. They're like a slipfit plus 1thou maybe. I don't want to mess up my castings if there's an epoxy method or something that might be worth trying. I don't know what the best fix is for me. The motor runs smooth on a VFD under 55 Hz but over that and I get a vibration (that might not be the loose bearings given there a VFD involved) it's a 1hp 3 phase Century motor. Thanks in advance if anyone has advice.
You sound alot older than you look
+Zorkz Racist
+DeeWoo i love sauna
+Meme Man dont mind him, his first link on his channel goes to his paypal donation page :P
+Zorkz
I think that is my english some how because nobody have ever told me that when I am speaking finnish.
+Beyond the press I think it's only for the Americans or something.. I'm Norwegian and you don't sound older to me.. Just very Finnish ^^ :)
Is this something we can try at home?
Nice, more uploads of this kind please! :)
That looks like a very strong and rigid lathe. What type is it?
Obvious question please, why didn't you insert the new sleeve with the hydraulic press?
Bob Pitt danger of cracking the end shield as they are fragile
Shouldn't it be interference fit? Insert machined slightly bigger than hole then frozen while housing is heated up. Temperature difference make it possible to press one ito another. When temperature of both equalize they are inseparable(your press probably could separate them). That is process required by ABB(Finnish manufacturer) in restoration of their motors. Repairs using glue are usually failing within a year.
Sasquatch we get end shields that other engineering company’s have repaired and your right the sleeve can slide out that’s why we make them a tap fit with loctite then Dutch key in 2 places @ 180 degree . Then finish bore last opp. Never comes out. 👍
Can we just use Locktight. The corrosion didnt look too bad for me. A question sir ,what brand is your lathe?
Is that a Peyal quick change toolpost?
My girlfriend asks: why didn't you call me yet?
Response : I don't care. I'm watching beyond the press!!!
+MasterOfKpop I'm basically facing the same issue:D
You must deal with it
+MasterOfKpop She is highly venomous and may attack at any time. : )
Be happy you have a girlfriend.
And how much does this work usually cost in Finland?
Love these videos, keep up the good work :)
thank you for that lesson you gave me a idea on how to repair box fans that the berrings seized up in it which is make it bigger for the sleve and press that in and then the new berring back home ii use my box fan year round if i can fix it and save me money on a new fan i usually go thru 2 or 3 a year
Open them up every 6 months and lube the suckers
Very disappointed you didn't press that insert into the bearing housing.
The wall thickness looks like it might be a little too thin to risk a press fit.
No, and he can still press it in instead of using a hammer. Hammer is faster though.
and he is not using a rubber hammer!?!?!?
He can use a metal hammer because he still had to machine the surface he was hitting that way a more direct force was being applied as the rubber hammer would have bounced back and he would have lost the kinetic energy needed to get the ring to meet up with the housing.
NickiLasse he'd left some sacrificial metal sticking out. It looked like about a cm. maybe I'd have used a copper mallet but it's really not so important.
I'm trying to figure out where he secured the jaws of the chuck during the first stage of machining the flats to secure it for the next step.
In my mind he should have secured them to the inside of the old bearing surface to keep everything concentric to that hole but I can't see any chuck jaws in there. They might be there though.
But I'm a novice and I could have missed something obvious
The jaws are securing the housing from the inside edge of the casing by pushing outwards. Only real available bearing surface given the shape and I guess he doesn't have any interchangable forks or anything for his laythe.
Acb Thr so my theory was correct?
This is really interesting. In what kind of motors or vehicles are these bearings used? They are gigantic!
That bearing housing is fairly small compared to a lot of motors. Motors are used in loads of different applications anything from roller coasters to food mixers.
I very much enjoy your channels and this video. And wonder why could you not have purchased a bearing with a larger outside diameter, then machined the motor housing to fit the new bearing? (You did need to replace the bearing anyway. Yes?) Danke schön für alles.
Tom Eubank probably cheaper
Tom Eubank The bearings are probably stocked and specialized to this motor. cheaper just to shim the housing like this.
I used to work in an electric motor repair shop.....boring and bushing an endbell in a three jaw chuck would get you run off quicker than hammering on cast iron!
Why did the job call for an insert instead of just cutting a larger inner diameter and using larger bearings?
Probably not enough material before he would start to interfere with the threaded holes. Looks like maybe 8mm clearance from those holes and he probably can't source a bearing that size.
Great work and video.
Why do the steel chips look blue?
Ray Cox extreme heat caused by friction .