Valve adjustment and timing - Home Built Project Beetle part 4
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the content you make deserves more than 27k subs.
Thanks mate.
I agree 100%. This is by far my favorite youtube channel.
You are absolutely right. As I am watching it is at 41K subs. Better but not good enough.
Jeff!! You just got a big mention on motion auto tv!! Those guys love your build of the porsche and are doing a swewt supra build!
Thanks for the heads up. I will check it out.
These engines are so robust they fix themselves! I remember my brother putting a new Holley "Bug Spray" carb on his. He didn't have a new gasket so he made one out of a hard cover book cover. Worked liked a charm. Liking the dual car format with more videos. Now if we can get Mrs. Jeff to do a 3rd car, then we would have it all.
Hi Jeff, nice video! Some things I think about what you mention and what I saw in this video:
- For the wrong sized spark plug, I saw it in the past when the cylinder head is damaged, I don't know the name in English, but look on google for "rosca postiça vela fusca", it works well!
- About timing, the 30º at 3000rpm should be the result of the timing degree at idle. I set the timing for my brasilia at 15° in idle (it feels better, but I had to limit the end advance of the distributor), the factory recommend 10° for Brazil beetles if I recall.
- Did you heard about adjust the gap by the valve balance not by the pulley position? You can also adjust by the cilinder where the rotor of distributor is pointing at (thinking about the distributor cover). In this way you don't need to trust the pulley marks.
- Besides the adjust, you can do a full service on the rocket arms, they are usually clogged, at least all aircooleds I know were in the first service, hehe.
- Seems like the engine is missing some heater channel tins, they are important to the engine, those ones, check that too : )
www.jbugs.com/store/graphics/00000001/8948-Heater-Channel-Kit-3-Piece-Kit-Main-Image.jpg
Keep going!!
Cheers,
Paulo
Thanks mate, I will have a bit more of a look at that stuff.
Your video brought back fond memories of working on my yellow beetle, been 25 years since I’ve adjusted valves on a 1600.
Hi Jeff,
The exhaust valves on beetle engines don't last very long (about 50k miles), and can seriously damage your engine if they break off. VW exhaust valves stretch before they break, so if the valve clearance starts to decrease (like yours are), you should replace them. I got this information from the book "How to rebuild your Volkswagen air-cooled engine" by Tom Wilson. It's an excellent book, if you're planning to do more work on the engine, I'd recommend getting it.
Very nice series thus far, I look forward to watching the other episodes!
That plug is way too wide. Performance Vw heads usually are narrower 12mm X 3/4” long reach while stock is 14mm 1/2” reach. My guess is someone stripped or broke the original plug in the head and this was re-tapped
A helli coil would bring plug back to original size plug😊
The distributor clamp is held on with one 13mm nut behind the distributor. Pull the distributor and clamp then replace the clamp.
It is easier to simply use the distributor cam lobs to identify which cylinder is going to be next cylinder to do tapets on Jeff 😊
Great stuff.. no mention on how it ran after? Love the satisfaction of a smooth running car after all the little changes that can make a huge difference!
It ran really well, if not much different than before. It seems like the timing and the tune were already pretty good.
In this weeks mrs jeff 😍😍😍programme, there was another interuption by some bloke with a beetle:)
Nice video Jeff. to get that bolt off of the adjustment trimming on the distributor. Just cut a slot on the end of the bolt and use a slotted screwdriver
Unfortunately it is a nut that is stuck on so in this case that won't work :(
a quick tip on gapping points. leave the feeler in, then tighten the points down. i've found go one size bigger (you had 0.16" put in 0.17") tighten down, and recheck. saves a ton of time.
Great tip
Next episode: Porsche engine into the Beetle
The more likely scenario is Beetle engine into the Porsche ;)
So turning the 911 into a 912? :D
For the warm start issue - you might check your fuel tank vent system. If it's been messed with, the fuel tank can come under a bit of vacuum and starve the engine after a while. Can check quickly by driving a bit and then opening the fuel cap and see if you hear a "whoosh".
The fuel cap doesn't seal properly and leaks, so that can't be the issue in this case.
I was taught many years ago to adjust points using a dwell meter and not to rely on feeler gauges , also you might get a quick fix on spark plug with a heli coil
Great job Jeff
The dizzy comes out super easy with the 13mm nut holding the clamp down. Cut the old bolt off in a vise and put a whole new one in. Change the condenser while it's out also.
Cool. I will have a look, because it is really annoying me ;)
Awesome! Thanks Jeff.
The first mark (left most) on the pulley is 5 deg ATDC, the second mark (right most) is for 7.5 deg BTDC. Both these markings are on the narrower side of the pulley.
The TDC on the pulley is marked as a dent on the broader rim of the pulley between the two marks that I mentioned.
Although it really doesn’t matter if you are adjusting the valve timings by lining up any of these markings with the Centre of the crankcase
Well done Jeff take my hat off to you😊
You pretty much have to put brand new gaskets on every time you take those valve covers off... and then they leak anyways. The bolt on ones are better. I also recommend the bolt up rocker shafts.
This TH-cam notification thing sometimes sucks. Go Beetle!
At some point, the engine "blew out" a spk-plug, and someone did a cheap/dirty patch job to make it go again.
(Some day when you need/want to re-do the top-end, could address it)
Set timing to 30 degrees all in. (Either advance light, or degree wheel) running at hi-rpm. And check a few times.
Peace.
Get an electronic conversion kit to get rid of the points, very cheap and easy mod, did it to my Kombi in 20min
Im guessing the original spark plug thread was stripped out so they tapped a larger thread. The right way to fix it is to timesert the hole
I have worked on these cars for many years.. looks like the head has been tapped for a weird size plug... not much you can do there. If it tightens ok, just replace it if possible.
A few things that might help. The bolt you had to replace !.. you need to adjust the auto choke, right hand side of the carb, 3 bolts in a triangle, loosen them and turn until you get a 5-6mm gap between carb and plate when looking down the carb throat... no power, cold engine... the replaced screw should then be able to sit on the idle cam on the other side when engine warm... adjust so screw just touches when warm and then another 1/2 turn in...
Timing is wrong. You are 10 deg out. You method is correct. Timing gun is great... you need to use the tdc mark.. not the 10 btdc Mark. See the v grooves on the front of the pulley that are marked with tippex?... on the rear of the pulley, I.e. nearest you you will see a shallow "dent". Mark it. It's the factory Mark for tdc. Time exactly as you did with that mark.
Make sure valves are good... then points are good (adjusting points will change timing, changing timing will not affect points!..), check timing, then do carb... Awesome to see a bug and a porsche in the same garage, it's great to see someone appreciate the simple engineering of the bug, and pretty cool when you see how it crossed over in to the 911:) both are great cars!
Great show, keep up the good work!
I will have a look into the the cold start cam adjustment. Thanks for the tip.
For the timing though, I did mark it off the TDC mark, the 10 degree mark was around 20mm to the right of that?
Ahh... if you used that "dent" on the rear edge of the pulley then you're bang on!:) yeah about 20mm to the left of the 10btdc Mark...
GGGRRRRrrrrrrr a quick zap with the mig will fix it right up....seriously how about an electronic ignition conversion? That spark plug was a nasty surprise, I stripped one once and put in a threaded plug with inside threaded to suit a long small diameter motorcycle spark plug..got me out of trouble and stronger than just boring it out and using a larger plug....
Good work Jeff, as others have said, maybe going electronic is a job for another time, but good to see you do the service all the same. I assume the idle screw you replaced with (what you had) is preventing you getting that to settle on that cam properly ?
The end of the screw is the same as the one that came out of it, so I can't see why it would be causing the issue. I need to check the car again after a good long drive and see how it is.
gotcha. . . i mis-understood you then Jeff. Its the big 'Air Cooled' show here in the UK this weekend, i was going to pick one up for you, but it seems you have it sorted. . . . .top job
Hi Jeff, I have oil spitting out of the drivers side exhaust pipe. I’ve been researching and can’t find anything to help me fix this. Do you have any suggestions? Many thanks
Awesome, how'd it run? Did you check the choke adjustment, is it open all the way when it's warm?
I did take it for a 20 minute drive and forgot to check it again, but it was pretty warm when I was tuning it. I will have to look at it again.
I wonder if you could put a Helicoil or a thread sert in the plug hole to correct it? Or just buy a larger plug each time and save the head ache, lol. What until you have to adjust the triple throat webers on the Porsche they are a lot of fun.
No webers for the Porsche, that is all going EFI, but there are triples going on the Z and that will be fun.
Looking forward to seeing the EFI set up. Almost went that route but the computer tuning stuff scared me away LOL. I have had good luck with the webers on my 67. Have you checked out the team boosted build?
I have watched a few episodes, but I haven't seen what they did with induction. I will have a look.
just get a helicoil set should be bolt on no problem ,so you can just use a complet set off sparkplugs
regards
Sören
www.helicoil.in/helicoil.htm
It might be easier to remove the head, install helicoil and reinstall the head. Not much room, otherwise.
'nice & tidy'
what does the 'D' of that metal plate standing tall on the the back bumper designate?
plz dont forget to include the answer (if discovered) to the reason of the larger plug in your next vid
- i believe it was a home shop remedy
The "D" stands for Deutschland (Germany)
I am almost certain that is is what I mentioned, that someone stripped the thread so they tapped a larger hole and just use a bigger spark plug.
You should think about getting rid of points set up and go electronic! So much better ....
why is it so much better?- I have 2 cars with the original setup and never had a problem- my mechanic told me it only really matters on the big v8 and stuff...
Oli K I know that the points work fine, I’ve owned so many cars with them fitted, the trouble with points are is that they wear down causing problems with timing ! Having electronic alleviates this problem, also spark is stronger with an electronic set up !
As I am trying to keep it simple for this one, if it works, it is staying ;)
Home Built By Jeff car looks real good, enjoying your videos
I have to agree. Keep it simple.
Shouldn’t the exhaust side be a different tappet clearance, because it runs hotter?
From what I have read for these they are the same. I just do what I am told ;)
Yes that’s the case, just surprising. Thanks Jeff.
is Mrs Jeff related to Jane Kennedy? she looks and sounds like her
Haha, never had that one before.
I swear I heard the Beetle say something about a turbo... I could have miss heard and it said Needs a Subaru EJ20 something. I am guessing EJ207... Still a boxer engine...... Just saying...
That would be a fun build, but not this time unfortunately ;)
It is unfortunate but not unusual to have challengers brought about by other people. In the past.
The bain of my 36 odd years in the trade fixing other peoples well FFF UPS frankly 😊