How to make a HDR onset for CG lighting
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
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Since I was supervising Visual effects in Tallinn this week and I had all my gear with me, I decided to film a episode about creating a HDR for image based lighting for CG. Btw, the process described in this video was the setup the Mill uses for HDRI capture. Have to thank André Brandt from Pike Production by all the help in this production. Thanks mate.
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Thanks so much for the overwhelming reaction to this video. Thanks for the amazing comments, to the messages and thanks for the views and likes. Love you guys. Much more to come very soon. Next up is a video about equipment for a VFX shoot.
Thanks Hugo, that was awesome to see the whole process, its normally skimmed over.
+Alex Legg Next week I will post the rest. I mean the creation of the HDR itself. Cheers and thanks
+Hugo's Desk I will be tuned in!
Hugo you’re the man! I love your videos!
Thanks mate
This is interesting - good to see actual clips from you on set! Looking forward to seeing how these shots turn out, and more tips/tricks!
Thank you very much Hugo! Very nice tutorial !
+Tomasz Lechociński Thanks so much mate. More to come soon
As always, brilliant!
Great tutorial Hugo - would love to take it to the next step and see how you stitched the photos together for the HDRI and created the QTVR image. Cheers!
+Joey Morelli Thanks so much for the kind words. Already planned to make that next week, don't worry. I actually use PT GUI Pro btw.
Thank you Hugo
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bestest tutorials! you explain very well!
I have a Nikon D7000 and I used to make hdr photos this way. I can't wait for my 360 degree camera to arrive!
Yes, I also use a Ricoh Theta V but I still find that it does not give me enough resolution. I only use the 360 in quick sets and hard places to take a camera. For me, nothing beats a 360 made with a 50 megapixel 5DSR. It is super sharp.
@@HugosDesk so what do you use your images for? Are you a professional in the film industry? For lighting and reflections rendered out to HD, I think the 360 camera will be fine. I don't show my 360 images in the final render.
I composite my renders against video plates shot with my dslr.
@@HugosDesk heres an example of how I use them:
th-cam.com/video/11fy1JlN6UQ/w-d-xo.html
Yes I am a professional VFX supervisor. I was the Head of Nuke compositing and VFX sup onset for The Mill London. Currently I Direct and supervise games Cinematics. Most of them are made in 4K so the extra res and quality from Canon sensor and glass always helps.
@@HugosDesk Ok well that makes sense with your profession. I think for a student or hobbyist, the 360 camera should be fine for lighting and reflections.
isso e uma verdadeira aula! muito obrigado 🏆🇧🇷
Well it is not possible to make the adaptor to be in the center of the sensor. Anyway in PT Gui you can edit and adjust it so it looks right. Been using this setup at The Mill for years and no issues at all.
very useful!!
+Snoeysen Diggie you want to rotate around what's called the nodal point of the lens - the lens takes all the light rays coming in to the camera, focuses them all through a single point and back out on to the sensor - this point is the "no parallax" point of the lens and if you rotate around that, you won't get any shift in the perspective of the images as you swing the camera around on the pano head - the sensor of the camera is a small distance behind where the point you want to rotate around is.
Hugo's Desk will be live on Twitch tomorrow Sunday, 17th March from 15.00 GMT. This will part Two of a CG compositing Nuke workshop using a real production shot. Hope to see you there.
www.twitch.tv/hugosdesk
Shouldnt the center of rotation be exactly where the sensor is, instead of rotating around the lensmount as you are?
Just as a useful thing, the programmers of magic lantern, an unofficial firmware for the canons, have added in a hdri mode to canon dslr's - you can choose a middle exposure plus up and down, the bottom exposure then gradually brighter, or the brightest exposure then gradually downwards. It'll do far more than 7 exposures and let you choose what gap in exposure you want each time - I think it's either 2 or 3 stops of a gap that's the maximum. I'll save you 300 dollars on the promote!
Also for non full frame cameras, the samyang 8mm lens will let you do a great panorama with 6 sets of exposures. It won't quite cover the full 180 degrees per shot due to the crop factor but you can shoot ever 90 degrees with the camera aimed slightly down, then 0 degrees and 180 degrees with the camera aimed up to get the missing bit of sky. For the panorama head the nodal ninjas will let you control the tilt up and down of the camera as well as snap to each of the 90 degree rotations so you get everything covered evenly!
+John O'Connell That is right, using the Magic Lantern is very useful. I have it installed myself. Thanks for the comment. I use the Promote mostly because of the fast setup, and because it woks almost any camera. Also I guess I am so used to it that I just use it, lol. When Onset, most of the 1st AD's give me like 10 Min to make the HDR I tend to just use the promote, faster and easier to setup under stress. But I guess if you have time using the Magic Lantern would be better. And cheaper.
+Hugo's Desk A lovely option for speed though perhaps lower resolution is the ricoh theta S - the current model is 300 euro but needs an iphone app to let you shoot brackets, some utter bastard of a coder knows this so the app's 49 euro :D - the new model is due out in november which adds higher resolution and hdri functionality built in. The main advantage is it shoots and stiches in camera - it won't make a hdr or exr for you, but you'll get your 9 360 panorama images out of the camera - it's 60 seconds for all the brackets with our current one so hopefully the november model will be similar. Currently about 5k x 2.5k resolution for the final image.
As you say you don't get a lot of time - this is literally walk in with it on a tripod, duck out of view and use the mobile app to set to shoot - can't get easier.
+John O'Connell Saw the RT-S earlier this year. Quite surprised how small it is. Someone ended up taking a 360 from inside their mouth. Most freaky looking picture I've seen for a while :)
Great video Hugo!
+Andy Nicholas Thanks mate.
this is great. Once you have the images, what would be the best way to stitch them together. Also, would you make 7 spheres first and then merge them into the HDRI, or would you merge the 7 images into HDRI's first and then stitch them together?
+Bryan Bentley I always use PTGui Pro. Very good tool.
Amazing. Do you thing, that I can use simply Android Photo Sphere? I thing, that result is same.
Thanks mate. You could use it but here is the thing. I take RAW photos so you get 7 exposures plus the RAW dynamic range so the total dynamic range is far superior then using the android app. Also I tend to either export as a 32bit float EXR or HDR file. So I guess to answer you question, you could use it but you will compromise quality and dynamic range. Thanks again for watching. More to come.
+Hugo's Desk Hello, I would like to know specifically promote control of settings? 0.5EV? 1.0EV? 2.0EV?
+高楠（Tom）Hi Tom, I used 1.3EV actually. Cheers
hi hugo, have u ever worked in a hdri mapped on geometry workflow , if so would u be able to give a quick overview of it , thanks for the great content
Can you add a list of your equipment and other stuff?
Sure, I am actually filming a equipment video very soon.
Hey,
Should I shoot in Raw?
LG Dave
Of course.
How to stitch hdri ???
PTGui ???
Yes, I started using PTGUI at The Mill and never looked back. Maybe I should make a video about that.
Hugo's Desk please do.
Any reason you are not on the nodel point of the sensor? I was taught to have the image sensor as the point of rotation.
+Brek Brek Hi, the center of rotation is as close as it can be to the end of lens and center of sensor. At The Mill we had many conversations about this and after talking with the creator of the 360 head and after testing and researching it, we found that it is in the correct place. Thanks for watching
hi , should i include the movie lights in my hdri. if trying to put some 3d object in between characters which are lit by the movie lights ?
In what application you actually made 32bit HDR image from that photos?
I use PT GUI Pro to export to a radiance or EXR file. Video coming soon. Cheers
It needs to be shoot when there are no People? Does it need to capture the stage lights, or it has to be the natural light?, and What do you do when you need to reflect an actor or People on to a chrome digital character that is performing?
Ideally but can be really hard to accomplish on a movie set.
@@davidenbom7685 so Just get the hdr, dont worry about lights, People etc. Ok
@@lobos9182 youd be amazed at the stuff we see in frame at HDRs we receive from production shoots. Lately the photographer himself even held his fingers in a v-sign in front of the camera... what the hell is that... this was an award winning AAA show with hollywood cast.
@@davidenbom7685каждый веселится как может 😅
Is a full frame strictly necessary? I have achieved a reasonably well stitched panoramic HDRI with my cropped sensor DSLR.
+Matthew Moult You could do it with a crop sensor, it's more work, but it is possible, I have all done it. You can also use a 4.5mm Sigma so it becomes a 8mm in a crop 1.6.
+Hugo's Desk Thanks Hugo. I never considered the 4.5mm. Nice vid. Good to see this subject covered in this way.
+Matthew Moult Thanks so much for the support.
No you can do a few options. Cropped sensor with a 4mm lens or use a Ninja tripod to make several passes using the lowest lens you have. Like a 15mm. At the end of the day it's all about speed. How fast can you come in onset do the HDRI and get out before you are kicked by the first AD, lol
Hi. Would you recommend use theta camera? have you use the new z-1 version?
Yes I would. Looks amazing. I wish I had one last year Onset. I have the Theta S but the Z is a new level with Raw DNGs
No you can’t my friend! That’s the same type of argument of people saying they can replace a DSLR with a IPhone. It’s not even comparable.
Is there any tutorial in the creating process of the HDRI using the pics shot?
Photoshop photomerge or PTGUI can merge the photos into one panorama.
What apps are available to convert the photos to a single HDR image?
I been using PTGui since my times at The Mill. Best around
@@HugosDesk Thanks! I'll get that.
hi sir ! I see some movie vfx maker use the grey ball, I want known what it use for?
thanks beauty
is it mandatory to use an 8 mm lens ?
@@TahoPAITA чем шире, тем лучше 😉😁
Hi Hugo I hope you don't mind me emailing, I'm a Vfx artist / viz artist I've been shooting hdri s for about a month and I'm finding my shadows are to soft, on a bright sunny day with Sharpe shadows my shadows appear very soft, I've shot 7 exposures 1 stop apart, if you could help that would be great I can send a few examples over if that's OK, but I understand if your to busy ps yours videos are brilliant
Cheers
Paul
Not sure what you mean. You can send me a example of you want. PM me.
Ok great how do I get in contact with you directly
Justin Bieber?
Almost 😅👌🏻
hard to take man seriously as an authority of something technical, that refers to a level as 'air bubble'
the short answer to all the comments about not rotating about the sensor,
is that he does not use a nodal ninja or similar dedicated ibl tripod mount.
My videos are not scripted so I guess I will be more careful next time. Thanks so much for the feedback.
I actually have a Nodal Ninja but most of the times I don’t have enough time onset to set that up. I mostly worked in commercials so it’s always very rushed. I mean this is literally the setup we use at The Mill and it’s been working just fine for us. Thanks for the feedback.