Mighty Max Ep. 05: How to Z Your Frame! Part 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- Today we continue with the 2 inch frame Z that's needed to make some 20 inch STR wheels fit under the Mighty Max fenders. Previously, we cut the frame at the firewall with the intent to weld it back on higher to help keep the suspension geometry in check and also narrow the chassis to pull the wheels in more.
The Tools Featured in This Video:
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Harbor Freight Grinder
Corded 4-1/2 in. 5 Amp Angle Grinder
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Vise Wilton
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Hole Cutters - Hougen
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![โรงเรียนดัดสันดาน นักเรียนเถื่อน..!! [โรงเรียนไดเม่]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vRKPeXn4Fl4/mqdefault.jpg)
you have a gift my friend!!! look forward to more. i appreciate the the picaso quality of you skills
Picasso? 🤔 Isn't that the guy with the wonky art? Hahaha! Thank you! I'll make videos until I can't.
Bro, this was soooo satisfying to watch. FR. Specially during that transition in 12:00, from cardboard template to the real deal. damn, bro, i almost scream seeing that. Really a beatyful work, it is like art to me. Congrats on it, you got the touch. Greetings from Venezuela. Hope i met u someday. Keep always moving forwards ✌
Thank you, Miguel! Your words mean a lot to me. I’m thrilled you noticed the small things that I enjoy the most. 🙏
I like when you use big words like embosse, it makes you sound smart!🤓
I can’t wait to have my own shop with employees that I can emboss around.
One of the better Zs I've ever seen in my opinion
I am honored! 🙏
Sir - WOW !!! ... I have seen modified customized fabrications in my many years , but none of those even come close to your thought process of adapting and modifying to maintain structural integrity and applying to said completion .
Much appreciated my friend. I enjoy living and I’d like to continue.
A engineer would be jealous of your skills sir, make a video of heavy duty welding like you did on this Frame, I'm very interested in becoming a better welder.
Thank you my friend! I’m leary of creating welding specific “How-To” videos as I’m not formally trained. Self taught actually. But they are popular videos so I’ll consider it!
I might have to take some classes myself. 🤔
This series has made my day. Nice to see a MMM get video time by someone, and someone that i see as a genius.
Incredibly kind words! Thank you. I hope I do you proud.
for this situation, i hardtack the desired position, mount the component, run it thru its range of motion, trim to fit, add xsection elsewhere to compensate
Good info!
Just tryna comment on all of the videos I see of yours so that TH-cam starts recommending you to more folx. Love the stuff, man!
Haha! I don’t understand the algorithm myself but I imagine anything helps a little. Thank you, my man! You are appreciated. 🙏
Cool editing and fabrication 👍🏻
Thank you Ron! 🙏
Pro tip from a certified welder and mechanical engineer; When welding vertically you get stronger weld by moving upwards (better penetration), even though it's much easier to get a beautiful weld moving downwards. On a frame weld I'd say strength is much more important than aesthetics. I'd also say that welding a frame with MIG/MAG is not the best choice strengthwise. TIG, flux core or stick welding with the right consumables gives more strength and less danger of cracking.
Have you any tips for welding upwards? Or just practice? The appearance of a better quality weld is the precise reason I weld down. My technique is to weld the root of the joint and build the puddle upwards, jump to the root and build the puddle upwards. It makes for a gorgeous weld, and I figured my method would give me good penetration. I’ve never cut a cross section and tested one of my, and I’m certainly not certified though I’d like to be soon. Thank you, Brother!
@@GarageFab You're very welcome! I found this video with 2 great tips. #1 is how I usually do it: th-cam.com/video/snyKGd4T-Zg/w-d-xo.html
Dude I was skeptical AF when you chopped that frame and narrowed it like you did to tuck the badass 20s! I'm thoroughly impressed brotha!! 👏👏
I’m also skeptical! Hopefully it doesn’t split in half on the road!
Also Dynamat works wonders in these trucks
I’ve honestly never used Dynamat. I’ve never been able to bring myself to spend that much money on something you can’t see.
This project might be different though. 🤔
@@GarageFab gt mat is a cheaper option, and what I used. Didnt mean to say dynamat, as it is quite expensive
I will definitely check it out.
Gotta love those dbl bevels. So pretty.
You make everything seem so simple, and explain things really well.
Most things ARE pretty simple. People just over-think them.
As always, thank you my man! 🙏
Awesome, stoked for more! Definitely interested to see what you do for steering, going to have to figure something out for my f100 lol. Keep on truckin' ✌
What's going on with the F100?
We'll know soon. Going to start slapping the engine together this weekend and hopefully have some answers.
Right on! Nothing yet😅 but should have the space in a month or so to finally dig in!
I enjoyed the way you thought through the process and the solution. This is why I watch talented people on here, to fill the noodle with the genius of others so future me has an easier life. I also appreciate how you made us all feel better about ourselves when the truck tilted backwards in part 1, let he who hasn't oh sh!tted cast the first wrench across the garage in a screaming fit!!
Hahaha!!! I almost literally 😂. That was both a terrible day and a great day. I learned so much in a matter of seconds! I’m working on a C10 for a friend at the moment and guess what! The rear has jack stands too. 👏
Loving the content bud! Your vice is awesome and i NEED ONE RIGHT NOW!!!
I’m pretty happy with it! It’s called the Wilton “All Terrain” vise if you want to look for it. Cheers!!
Hi liking your channel , just want to mention , welding down hand on anything structural is a huge No No .
You don't get the penetration compared to vertical up .
Cheers Phil
Thank you, Phil!
I like your attitude
Thank you, John! I try to be positive. I hope it shows. Cheers!
Amazing!!! Making me want to go work on the Datsun!! Wifey is funny....are you serious?! 🤣
That’s what I like to hear!! Get to it!
Well i just went on a benign watching the videos lol love it ol earthscarper recommended ur channel im glad he did cant wait to see the outcome
Ha! Awesome. Thank him for me. And I'll thank him myself. And thank you! All the thanks!!
did you really cut your beard off for a .02 sec fast and furious reference? You sir are the man!
Still suffering the consequences.
I understand I'm a nurse and had to shave for COVID 😡. Let the itching begin lol
Hahaha!!!
Another awesome video! Love how it came out and wow i so wish I was closer so I could learn from ya and or have you work on my trucks hahaha!
Thank you. Keep watching! I'm hoping people can learn here too. As for working on stuff, I'm focusing so hard on being a YouTubist so I'm not taking any jobs at the moment anyway!
Thanks for the great video! I dream of doing more to my truck, just can't find the time. You're living the dream.
I'm blessed for sure but it's not exactly a dream just yet. When I can afford to quit my job and get an air conditioned shop, THAT will be a dream. You're welcome and thank YOU! What's your project?
@@GarageFab I've got an '86 f150 i drove to high school. It lays frame, a 1inch valve in the front (goes up fast), has suicide doors, a turbocharged stroker motor and a bunch of stuff like that. I want to body drop it on 26's and body work it for paint but i work around 700hrs of OT a year and don't have time to work on it.
1 inch valves!!! Sheesh. That would suck having to wait until the truck came back to earth before you could start driving.
I'd love to see it! Sounds like it'll be cool.
Awesome job
Thank you, Felix. 🙏
Looks great - going now to check and see if you made those other fab videos (card stock, etc) 👍👍😎👍👍
Haha! No, not yet. Instead I’ve just used card stock in every video. 😂
Thank you, Joel 🍻
Hell yea! Awesome! So stoked to see this coming along. Looking so good
Thank you! Me too! Whoda thought TH-cam would be motivation to actually get work done?
Proud to be 1 of 5 😁. Amazing work as always my dude!
And I’m proud you’re still alive! ♥️♥️♥️
Dude! You are a wizard ✨
I don’t know about that. Just paid attention in arts and crafts class.
Love watching the build process.
And I love building the build process! We make a good team.
Great video. Can't w8 to see whatcha do next.✊🏿💥
Thank you, Brother! 🙌
Subbed for card stock and becoming a garage fabricator
Glad to have you my friend! There will be PLENTY of card stock to come. The next video will be the most impressive card stock challenge yet! 😂
Thank you for your great videos its a credit your skills 👍🎄
My pleasure my man! Very much appreciated.
First class mini 🛻 entertainment
Much appreciated! If you stick around long enough, I’ve got a project that literally looks like 👉🛻 👈
You do AWESOME work!!!!!
Thank you, Samuel. I fake it well. 😀
good job
Thank you, Alexandre! 🙌
Looks great,awesome work.
Thank you!!
So, now the wheels are 1/4" forward from where they originally were, and the core support would be 1/2" further forward from original, right? Did you remove the extra material from the frame to make up the difference, or is there just that much room for adjustment on the fenders and stuff to get the front clip to fit right?
You are mostly correct. Just subtract the lost material from the cutoff wheel which is around 3/32”, twice. So quick head math: 5/16” I think is the total it pushed the front frame mounts forward. There’s more than 1/2” of wiggle room for the front radiator support mounts.
I tend to keep soda can boxes laying around. Works just the same as card stock
Brilliant. That’s about the same thickness as the card stock I buy. I see people use corrugated cardboard a lot but that stuff is miserable to bend cleanly and or gradually. Soda boxes would be absolutely perfect.
@@GarageFab I tried corrugated cardboard when I was making motor mounts for my falcon. Struggled a tone and that’s when I just grabbed a Fanta box out of the trash can and used that instead. Been keeping about 10 on hand ever since. Lol.
Btw, if you don’t mind me asking, what height do you normally set your ride height at? I’m going to be bagging my F100 soon and I’m wondering if an 8” ride height is too tall or out of range for a double convoluted bag. Id prefer to mount the bag directly to the axle but if I have to mount it on the arm to have my desired travel I will.
The card stock I buy comes in 2x3 sheets for a dollar a piece at the upholstery store I visit a lot. I spend 15 bucks and I’m good for the year.
Sorry! I missed the second half of that comment. If you’re bagging, are you planning on laying the frame on the pavement? If so, 8 inches sounds a bit too high for a ride height. If you have rougher roads than we have in Vegas maybe 8 inches would be just fine. You will be able to get 8 inches off the ground but it might not be comfortable depending on how you set up the suspension.
If you haven’t experienced air suspension, you might be surprised to know ride quality is kinda opposite of static suspension. With air, the lower you go the softer the ride gets because there’s less air pressure in the springs. Full height produces an unbearable rough and bouncy ride because of the high air pressure.
My guess is your ride height might be closer to to 5 or 6 inches. That’s pretty low for a dually but if your going with the bagged life you’re changing to the low life. That doesn’t mean if you come across a steep driveway or the occasional curb you can’t just air up a little temporarily to get over it.
For comparison, I generally set my ride height at 3 inches. Keep in mind that’s in a much smaller truck with a shorter wheel base and minimal off-roading in the concrete jungle of Vegas.
@@GarageFab awesome thanks. A 5-6” ride height would be perfect. My F100 and my navigator have the same wheel base and my Lincoln’s lowest point is 4.5” off the ground and I rarely scrape on high/steep driveways. I’m in Bakersfield, roads are damn near glass compared to LA lol. I just saw that the bags I was looking at had a 7 3/4” range, so I’m probably going to ride about 6” off the ground. Thanks a lot man! I appreciate you and can’t wait for more videos, fun to watch AND educational.
I keep forgetting to ask you, do you happen to have one extra used top piston ring for a 3.530 cylinder?
As wrong as it sounds I was serious about the piston ring. I am gonna open my ring gap to .030 for a small super charger but 1 broke. I will pay u 4 it if u have 1. Top ring 3.530
I can't seem to find a set.
I think I trashed my old rings. I’ll be cleaning out the can of the truck soon where it would be if i have it so I’ll look shortly.
7:40 RIP Camera sensor
Haha! I just saw this. I recently purchased a tinted lens protector in hopes of saving the camera too. So far so good. 👍
I don't know if you know this or not... but .. you build some cool sh!t.. 😎
Well I think it’s cool. I’m glad someone else does too!
Do you have to compensate for the 1/4" plates that you installed? You added 1/2" to the length of the frame.
Good thinking Rod. Yes. I did not compensate, though, and I didn’t want to try to film the drawn out reason why I didn’t.
Here it is: I actually only added a total of 3/8 of an inch after subtracting the metal lost from making two 1/16 inch wide cuts, and this was only to the front most part of the frame where the radiator support mounts. Those rubber mounts have 1/2 inch of wiggle room from the factory, so the radiator support will bolt on just fine.
This also pushes the bumper forward 3/8 of an inch. This may look unappealing and if it does I’ll just modify the holes in the bumper brackets.
The suspension and engine were also moved forward 3/16 of an inch but I can’t imagine that would cause any issues. Hopefully I’m not wrong!
@@GarageFab Thanks for the reply. I just happened to stumble on your channel. I really like it.
Excellent! Hope to see you in future videos!
What kind of steel do you use on your frame work...reg mild steel?
That is correct!
Did you have to take a half inch out of the frame rails to accommodate for the two quarter inch plates that you put in? So your gap still lines up?
I did! Actually only 3/8ths of an inch because I could see the factory mounts were already sitting back too far an 1/8th inch. I ended up editing that whole thing out because of time and it seemed really confusing.
Awesome project looking forward to more vids really thinking about doing a z on my 49 Coronet and throwing a link in the back
Do it!!! There will definitely be a link video. One of my favorite things.
Cool that will be nice, I was just gonna buy a universal 4 link kit off ebay
Did you take 1/4” out the frame at the cut to avoid shifting everything forward 1/4”
I did not. However subtracting the kerf of the blades resulted in a 3/16” shift. The Mighty Max control arms are mounted at a slight angle causing the front wheels to pull backwards a small amount when the vehicle lowers. So when riding low or laid out the wheels will be more centered now than they would be if I didn’t shift things forward.
A side effect is this pushed my front body mounts further forward but the mounts have what looks like a half inch of play so I predict I won’t have to deal with that. But if I do, I do!
@@GarageFab ahh ok well that’s great!! Just came across your channel this morning and just finished all the mighty max videos, can’t wait for the next one!! I’m fixing to pull my 92 hardbody apart and do a v8 swap and since I’ll have the body removed I figured why not do a stock floor body drop too lol. Wish I recorded everything when I bagged it to put on my channel just didn’t think bout it at the time. But this revamp of the hardbody is getting completely filmed. I’ll be doing other little odd and end things while I’m doing it along with a bed floor.
🙌 My kind of project. Sounds exciting! If you post it, I’ll be watching! Best of luck my man. See you in the next one.
I love it awesome job
Thanks, Kevin!
What about the engine mounts?
This is an old video so I don’t recall… Are you asking where they went? They’re still welded together on the side of my garage somewhere. I’ll be putting them back on in the next week or so!
Amazing work how does this only have 59 likes
Thanks, Dave! New video on a new channel! I'd like to think there will be bajillion likes one day. 😀
@@GarageFab well I'm definitely loving your channel and plan on using your methods on my 66 F100 build 😉
🙌
@@GarageFab update I used your method and did a 3" drop both front and back at the same time yesterday on my 66 F100 frame and it worked perfectly got all 4 tie in plates welded in and it turned out good just have to make my fish plates now check out the progress on Instagram @itzamedave_restomods 👍
Hello there I have a question do you kwn anything about proportioning breake valve I have a master cylinder with 4 breake lines I need mostly my rear breakes to lock up where do I install the proportioning valve ?
Hey, Jerome! My experience with proportioning valves is strictly on older trucks with a single brake line feeding both of the rear brakes. The valve on those obviously just goes in the single line before it Tees off to each brake caliper.
So are there 4 lines coming out of the master? Or just Two?
@@GarageFab hey its 4 lines coming from the master cylinder 2 for the front breakes and 2 for the back breakes how do I connect that
Look for proportioning valve for a split system. It should have 4 ports. 2 in, 2 out. That would be the RIGHT way of doing it.
For a single-line proportioning valve, you could T the two lines together before the proportioning valve and then T them back apart after the valve. I’d highly recommend NOT doing that. If you lose pressure in one of the rear brake lines, you’ll lose both rear brakes. Currently if you lose pressure in one line you’ll still have 3 other brakes. I’m unsure of what other side effects T-ing the lines together might have. I’m honestly not educated enough on braking systems to know for sure. 🤷♂️
What size wire are you using to weld?
I change often. In this video I believe .035. But most often .030.
@@GarageFab Thanks!
Badass
Thank you, Gary. 🙏
So the thing is. I have a 98 montero sport. And would like to do the 5 lug swap. But I havent seen how to do the rears..just drill?
Generally on pickups the rear axle is completely swapped out. They’re often stolen from Toyota trucks.
I’ll just purchased a Mustang axle from the junkyard and I’ll be using that.
Drilling is an interesting thought, though. It would likely be a lot of work to adapt a Toyota axle to a Montero. Maybe welding Montero axles and having a machine shop turn and redrill is an option.
@@GarageFab for what ive seen the rear axle on my montero sport is the same as the mmm. Leaf springs. 97-99 are that way. 2000up switched to coils.
@@GarageFab gotta check how much meat the axles have to drill the 5 lug pattern. Never thought of doing a 5lug until I came accross your 001 vid. Just binged watch all 6. I want more 😂😂
Oh! Right on! Check out 1995 or earlier Toyota pickups then. I don’t know if the spring perches are in the right spot because I’m usually welding on link bars but the width will be close.
👍🏽🇺🇸👍🏽
🙏
I dig it #minitruckinisntdead
Thank you! #NotIfICanHelpIt
Why is called a fish plate lol
I have no idea! Some are actually shaped like a fish but I doubt that’s it.
…here’s what the interwebs say…
“A fish plate does not have anything in common with the aquatic fish. The fish in this term is derived from the French word ficheâ meaning a peg. Ficheâ, in turn, is
derived from the old French word fichierâ, which means to fasten.”
Excellent work. Me doing a similar sort of job would be a feeling of great satisfaction.....until I found the weld had pulled the end of one of the frame rails 2" higher than the other. :(
I do that sort of thing so often I've come to expect it.
I’m with you, Paul. I’m just starting to learn to anticipate warpage and, plan ahead. Weld in symmetrical patterns to minimize movement and “steer” the work piece with initial warpage.
I’m still terrible at it! But that’s why they created cut off wheels. 😂
Thank you my friend!
Ok, you used 1/4 plate between the frames did you recut the frame to account for this distance? if not your whole radiator support will be 1/2 to far forward? Not to mention your front bumper!
I see what your getting at, but no. I did use quarter inch plates on the right and left. But that’s only… 1 quarter inch. Minus the width of the cut which is roughly a 1/16”. I did NOT double cut the frame so it is in fact further forward but only 3/16”. The front body mounts have a half inch of allowable movement so all should be good.
@@GarageFab but you used 1/4 behind the wheels and again in front of the wheels, for the "z" up and again for the "z" down.
Oh, touché! You are correct. The same measurements apply, so the front is 3/8” further forward than it’s supposed to be. All I can say is I’ve had the front end back on for wheel fitting and there was more than enough play in the body mount ears.
When I painted the truck 6 years ago I modified the front bumper brackets pulling the bumper in 3/4” closer so I’m not too concerned about how that’ll look.