5 months later...I'm finally actually using the device. I must say Dan, yours is one of the absolute best tutorials on this device on TH-cam.. Your video control and calm voice are both superb and make for an easy to follow tutorial. Thank you for making this video!
So very grateful for this! I was struggling to understand how you used a switch to make the current flow two ways and then I saw the diagram and had one of those "Dear God, how have I made it this far in life?" moments. Really a well thought out instructional video broken down so that everyone can understand it. Camera work was excellent, audio was just fine and I think you stayed on topic so well. Plenty to discuss about this unit but you really nailed what needs to be focused on first when you first open up the box. Thankfully I have experience with the XYS3580 buck boost converter so all of those abbreviations on the right are very familiar
Soooo glad you prepared this tutorial because whilst the Drok is a useful piece of test kit the user guide leaves a lot to be desired ! Many thanks, saved me a lot of trial and error (which you really don’t want when dealing with high currents).
Thank you very much. You just saved me from returning 2 of these back to Amazon because they would not display the correct voltage. The 1st one that I got worked great out of the box but these 2 did not. One was 100A and the other was the 300A. Unfortunately, I need a better power unit to produce numbers as fine as yours because even after some calibration the numbers are still off. But now they are not .4-.5 volts off from what they should be. Thanks again.
Thank you for the detailed description. I just received my battery meter, and glanced at the minor instructions. They looked to be... minimal. So, your video will be a great reference guide, as I build my Ham Radio Go-Box, with onboard battery(s)! 👍
This is so well done! Your clarity makes it possible for me to do what I want with mine. For instance reading discharge/charge with the switch. I wasn't sure if I would have to change the thin red wire location when I went from load to charge. For me, it's a little more difficult as I am using 6 or 8 gauge battery cables.
To reset the total on the battery, press the down arrow, one press past LOP. The yellow cursor will disappear. From here you can press the ok button to reset it from 0% to 100%
i noticed something that may be part of what others have complained about on some channels- battery drain. I left mine on the other day with no load and no battery to be measured and after about 3 hrs. the screen came on. I turned it off but have no idea why it came on or how long it would have stayed on had I left it alone. It doesn't draw much but it was enough to completely drain my car battery after 4 or 5 days not driving it. I opted for an independent power supply when that happened and I will be wiring a dash mounted solar panel to keep it charged. It's really good quality from Harbor Freight though they expect something like 250 ma to keep your vehicle charged which is kind of rediculous. Plus they suggest adding a solar controller!
I have been enjoying your videos. I have this digital dc meter and I don't really understand the set up. Could you recommend a meter to replace this one? Thank you, Dave
Fantastic video ! I got one of these meters for testing a bunch of LifePo4 battery cells I got and the meter was giving me fits figuring it out with the horrible instructions. I got into never-land playing with it and was able to use your "numbers" to restore the current calibration to close to factory calibration. I assume the 24XX number on the current calibration screen that changes with calibration is some parameter not documented but your settings got me back close to factory calibration from which I could do a actual calibration. Thanks so much for the fantastic information !!
This a great video. I’m building a very small battery power bank 7Ah for charging my DC devices and I’m wondering if this module is a good fit. My solar panel is 12v (reads 19v open circuit) 10W, .5A . I’m wanting to find a meter /controller (or maybe I need two meters?) that acts as a solar charger controller where I can both trickle charge the battery / input power and charge my devices at the same time. So I guess something that is pass though? Also I would like to see both the charge current and discharge current simultaneously. Can this device do the trick. Can it be calibrated to display currents of .500 amps ? Thank you so much!
Thanks. IMO, this meter will do pretty good at indicating approximate battery capacity (like a fuel gauge). You would need to have another meter or a meter that has inputs for two sensors to show simultaneous input and output separately. I think this meter is better for higher current systems and might be a little inaccurate at low currents.
@@DanPattenAudioG33khello! Thanks for the clarification that this meter does show two separate numbers for in and out flow. Do you know though if this meter (in a real world setting with both power in and out to a battery) was connected to a solar controller (12v, 10w .500A solar panel -> 12v 10A solar controller-> 12v solar load output terminals) would it show the sum total number (of + PV input -Load output) ? For example, if there was more current being drawn out from the battery and less input of current from a solar panel (or power supply)would we see a negative number or a number with an arrow to indicate negative draw?
Edited: Dan is da man! 🤙 I have another question... in your diagrams that you drew why are the solar panels not connected to anything? Where would the solar be connected to the battery? If so how would you get a reading that the power is accumulating in the batteries if it's not going through the hall sensor?
Sorry. My day job :) has been very hectic with lots of extra hours... Too bad your unit has been problematic. In my drawing, the power supply is a substitute for the solar panels and the load (Rigol Electronic Load) is a substitute for a battery.
would it be possible to pass more than one switched on/off battery power wire thru the Hall magnet similar to how you switched your red/yellow wires (direction of flow)? Of course each wired in Parallel so power stays connected to devices it runs yet with a disconnect switch on the wire that goes thru the hall. Thinking then one could switch on the line from battery you want to measure info about....... click it off...... select another line by switching it on instead. etc. net result...... one meter that can be used for more than one battery. what is your thoughts on that? I would assume one would have to calibrate it once all the lines are thru the magnet.... to get it to measure close to correct thru the extra wires in there.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k do you think a diode would be needed where the parallel leg that split off thru the meter was rejoined to its path it follows to keep back feed out? Granted by the time one bought all the components to do this could have just bought more of these inexpensive Drok Meters.
I cannot get my meter to display accumulating AH or WH, it only shows 0.00. I got a replacement from Amazon and it behaves the same. Do I have 2 bad meters or am I missing something? I have a 12V, 45 AH battery that I am trying to test. If I set the OAH to 45AH, it will decrement the AH appropriately when I apply a load but the WH is still displaying 0.00. If I reverse the current direction, the WH will display but as soon as it hits 0.11, it resets to 0.00.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k oh that’s great news! I got confused because I’ve seen a couple of videos were people wired up two of them to get in and out flow (it didn’t make sense to me). Thanks! 🙏
Hello Dan, thanks for the review. I'm looking for a solution to monitor my LiFEPO4 battery pack as I cycle it so I know where the capacity is at any given moment. Question: Does the Meter store the dynamic present capacity of the pack when the display is off, or does it lose it ? I'm hoping that even if the display is off, as long as it is still connected to the battery pack it will retain the remaining (or cumulative) capacity.
Sorry about slow reply... When the meter measures zero current flow it "times out" at about 20 seconds and the display goes blank. Upon sensing current again, the display wakes back up and proper accumulated capacity is shown. The "ok" button can also be pressed and proper accumulated power will be displayed. The dynamic accumulated capacity is volatile and if the unit loses power, the capacity reading will be goofed. The two supply connection could be used with a small backup battery to prevent this scenario. The OAH setting is non-volatile. Thanks.
Thanks for the video, i bought the same unit and you are right the instructions are worthless. Because of this video im able to put to good use now. What kinda switch do you have and how did u wire it. Sorry excuse my ignorance im fairly new to electronic stuff.
So in order to charge a battery, you need 2 sources of power right? One for the display the other to charge battery. Or use same power supply for both display and to charge battery. Am i correct? Sorry i have adhd and its hard to understand or to follow along a whole video.
@@nesioraul You can use it with 2 power supplies or single supply. If the battery/device you are monitoring is lower than 10ish volts you would need a the 2 power supply hookup.
Raul, I just posted another video on this unit that describes more features. Maybe this info will help. Part 2 video: th-cam.com/video/cp2qrXKJ654/w-d-xo.html
Very goof video!! Thanks a lot! I 've a question, is possible to have the screen at 4 mts of battery cable? IT means can the flat cable, be cutted and put extra cable around 4 mts? Thanks a lot!
Chinglish manuals are universally bad. Thank thee for the clarification. One question: There are four versions of these meters with different voltage and current limits. What is/was the model number for the one in the video.
Hi...I have to say thanks a lot for your video...This is by far the most informative video I have found so far on this meter.. I was nearly about ready to toss it in the junk bin.. But now, I feel that I can actually put it to good use now, Thanks again.. 👍👍👍 Is there a way to make the display STAY ON ???
Thanks for the kind comments. If you question is about the display turning off when low current is detected, my answer would be not that I am aware of.
Hi.. Hope you can advise. I have set my BAT reading to 400AH (total batteries capability) and the BPC reading to 100%..batteries fully charged with shorepower over 12 hours. Problem on the monitor: the batteries are reading 13.4v but the graphic and AH% of batteries is 61% and falling. Any ideas would be great.
Hello. Sorry, I am not sure that I understand your question. I just did a part 2 on this unit, take a look and see if it helps. Here: th-cam.com/video/cp2qrXKJ654/w-d-xo.html
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Ok thanks.. I worked it out though. The BAT setting is the capacity of one battery not the whole bank. I set it yo 200 (one battery) and the reading jumped to 100%. So pleased😀
Sorry, I do not have enough experience with this unit yet to fully recommend it. If you are monitoring your batteries, I think it should be fine. I would not use it to control charge because of lack of experience. Thanks.
WOW, your video is so good man, I am trying to measure the capacity of both of my Lifepo4 batteries and is looking for an easy precise way to do it, unless you know of an easier way? Thanks again you are a good teacher. I am building my own 100 amp hour solar capable power station using 2 LifePo4 batteries and I love the look of this Ammeter because it has a color LCD and also supports multiple functions too, cheers!
Thanks for the kind comments. I think this might be one the least expensive monitors I have seen. However, I do not think I would rely on it to manage the charging of a lithium battery pack.
Great video, thank you so much very helpful. How do i set the max capacity to 100 percent, or any percent? Battery display shows 00 but it should read 100 as battery is full, the voltage reading is correct.
Have had a few questions about this device and I still need to figure out a few more aspects as well. Sorry I can not answer your question right now. I'll look at doing another video. Thanks.
Yeah, the cable is the limiting factor. Mine came with two cables. One 8 inch, and the other about 16 inches. But mine is going in golf cart and I need about a 10 foot one. So I cut it and made it longer with a shielded ethernet cable. I hope the extra distance doesn't mess up the readings.
@@mattadata2 shielded "should" be good. A buddy of mine extended his with some unshielded wire, running right next to some power cables and had all kinds of interference. I was going to try to fix it for him, but then he got pissed an trashed it.
Thank'S for your video , it help me , but i got problem when the power go to the batterie , the WH don't go up , and H too , just don't know why !! Got 2s2p lead acid batterie setup for 210 ah , so i put the OAH to 210 and calibrate the voltage ! When discharging , that work , but when charging , no good !! If you want , i be happy if you do another video with other feature !
@@DanPattenAudioG33k yes I finally figured it out last night the unit was okay I was just doing something wrong. When I was calibrating the amps I was adjusting from where it says zero in blue but you're not supposed to calibrate from there you're supposed to calibrate from the +.4 or -.4 the zero in blue is just a zero it out when you start with no current. That was my mistake my bad but your video definitely helped me get through this stupid thing. I can't believe how horrible their instructions are and it doesn't even show anything for calibration on instructions. 🤦 Thanks Dan man new subscriber for sure! 🙏
5 months later...I'm finally actually using the device. I must say Dan, yours is one of the absolute best tutorials on this device on TH-cam.. Your video control and calm voice are both superb and make for an easy to follow tutorial. Thank you for making this video!
Thanks for the kind comments and your welcome.
One year later i figured how it actualy works. Thanx! We have to save this video for our next generations!
Thanks for the kind comment.
So very grateful for this!
I was struggling to understand how you used a switch to make the current flow two ways and then I saw the diagram and had one of those "Dear God, how have I made it this far in life?" moments.
Really a well thought out instructional video broken down so that everyone can understand it. Camera work was excellent, audio was just fine and I think you stayed on topic so well. Plenty to discuss about this unit but you really nailed what needs to be focused on first when you first open up the box. Thankfully I have experience with the XYS3580 buck boost converter so all of those abbreviations on the right are very familiar
Thanks for the kind comments. The forward/reverse current with a switch is a little bit of brain teaser. Thanks.
Soooo glad you prepared this tutorial because whilst the Drok is a useful piece of test kit the user guide leaves a lot to be desired ! Many thanks, saved me a lot of trial and error (which you really don’t want when dealing with high currents).
Thanks for the kind comments. Agree, it is a nice little device but is almost unusable initially because of poor documentation :)
Thank you very much. You just saved me from returning 2 of these back to Amazon because they would not display the correct voltage. The 1st one that I got worked great out of the box but these 2 did not. One was 100A and the other was the 300A. Unfortunately, I need a better power unit to produce numbers as fine as yours because even after some calibration the numbers are still off. But now they are not .4-.5 volts off from what they should be. Thanks again.
Thanks for the kind comments. Glad the video helped. I was pretty confused with my meter at first.
Thank you for the detailed description. I just received my battery meter, and glanced at the minor instructions. They looked to be... minimal. So, your video will be a great reference guide, as I build my Ham Radio Go-Box, with onboard battery(s)! 👍
Your welcome. I am Ham as well but not very active :)
This is so well done! Your clarity makes it possible for me to do what I want with mine. For instance reading discharge/charge with the switch. I wasn't sure if I would have to change the thin red wire location when I went from load to charge. For me, it's a little more difficult as I am using 6 or 8 gauge battery cables.
Thanks for the kind comments. Glad the video helped.
To reset the total on the battery, press the down arrow, one press past LOP. The yellow cursor will disappear. From here you can press the ok button to reset it from 0% to 100%
Thank you so much for making this video! So helpful!
Your welcome :)
i noticed something that may be part of what others have complained about on some channels- battery drain. I left mine on the other day with no load and no battery to be measured and after about 3 hrs. the screen came on. I turned it off but have no idea why it came on or how long it would have stayed on had I left it alone. It doesn't draw much but it was enough to completely drain my car battery after 4 or 5 days not driving it. I opted for an independent power supply when that happened and I will be wiring a dash mounted solar panel to keep it charged. It's really good quality from Harbor Freight though they expect something like 250 ma to keep your vehicle charged which is kind of rediculous. Plus they suggest adding a solar controller!
Interesting info. Thanks for sharing.
I have been enjoying your videos. I have this digital dc meter and I don't really understand the set up. Could you recommend a meter to replace this one? Thank you, Dave
Thanks. Unfortunately, this is the only capacity ammeter that I have worked with so do not have any other recommendations at this time.
Fantastic video ! I got one of these meters for testing a bunch of LifePo4 battery cells I got and the meter was giving me fits figuring it out with the horrible instructions. I got into never-land playing with it and was able to use your "numbers" to restore the current calibration to close to factory calibration. I assume the 24XX number on the current calibration screen that changes with calibration is some parameter not documented but your settings got me back close to factory calibration from which I could do a actual calibration. Thanks so much for the fantastic information !!
Thanks for the compliment. I agree, the instructions that came with the unit are not very helpful.
Great video! If you do make another video on this could you show how to use a relay with it? Thanks for help!
Thank you. The relay functionality is confusing. I will have to play with the unit some more and maybe do a quick video.
Just loaded a new video that describes use of the relay. It might help. Here is link: th-cam.com/video/cp2qrXKJ654/w-d-xo.html
I'm in same boat with Raul. Nice job, Thank you
Thanks.
Thanks for the fab in depth video. Perhaps you could answer me this, at around 16:00 what is the "Relay" screw terminals for?
Hello. I did a second video about this unit and it discusses the relay output. th-cam.com/video/cp2qrXKJ654/w-d-xo.html Thanks.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Cheers much appreciated ☺️👍
This a great video. I’m building a very small battery power bank 7Ah for charging my DC devices and I’m wondering if this module is a good fit. My solar panel is 12v (reads 19v open circuit) 10W, .5A . I’m wanting to find a meter /controller (or maybe I need two meters?) that acts as a solar charger controller where I can both trickle charge the battery / input power and charge my devices at the same time. So I guess something that is pass though? Also I would like to see both the charge current and discharge current simultaneously. Can this device do the trick. Can it be calibrated to display currents of .500 amps ? Thank you so much!
Thanks. IMO, this meter will do pretty good at indicating approximate battery capacity (like a fuel gauge). You would need to have another meter or a meter that has inputs for two sensors to show simultaneous input and output separately. I think this meter is better for higher current systems and might be a little inaccurate at low currents.
@@DanPattenAudioG33khello! Thanks for the clarification that this meter does show two separate numbers for in and out flow. Do you know though if this meter (in a real world setting with both power in and out to a battery) was connected to a solar controller (12v, 10w .500A solar panel -> 12v 10A solar controller-> 12v solar load output terminals) would it show the sum total number (of + PV input -Load output) ? For example, if there was more current being drawn out from the battery and less input of current from a solar panel (or power supply)would we see a negative number or a number with an arrow to indicate negative draw?
Edited: Dan is da man! 🤙
I have another question... in your diagrams that you drew why are the solar panels not connected to anything? Where would the solar be connected to the battery? If so how would you get a reading that the power is accumulating in the batteries if it's not going through the hall sensor?
Sorry. My day job :) has been very hectic with lots of extra hours... Too bad your unit has been problematic. In my drawing, the power supply is a substitute for the solar panels and the load (Rigol Electronic Load) is a substitute for a battery.
would it be possible to pass more than one switched on/off battery power wire thru the Hall magnet similar to how you switched your red/yellow wires (direction of flow)? Of course each wired in Parallel so power stays connected to devices it runs yet with a disconnect switch on the wire that goes thru the hall. Thinking then one could switch on the line from battery you want to measure info about....... click it off...... select another line by switching it on instead. etc.
net result...... one meter that can be used for more than one battery.
what is your thoughts on that? I would assume one would have to calibrate it once all the lines are thru the magnet.... to get it to measure close to correct thru the extra wires in there.
What you describe should work. You would need to make sure that your switches are capable of the battery current.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k do you think a diode would be needed where the parallel leg that split off thru the meter was rejoined to its path it follows to keep back feed out? Granted by the time one bought all the components to do this could have just bought more of these inexpensive Drok Meters.
I cannot get my meter to display accumulating AH or WH, it only shows 0.00. I got a replacement from Amazon and it behaves the same. Do I have 2 bad meters or am I missing something? I have a 12V, 45 AH battery that I am trying to test. If I set the OAH to 45AH, it will decrement the AH appropriately when I apply a load but the WH is still displaying 0.00. If I reverse the current direction, the WH will display but as soon as it hits 0.11, it resets to 0.00.
Meant to ask earlier, what happens in the display if you are both charging the battery and drawing from it at the same time?
It will show the cumulative current.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k oh that’s great news! I got confused because I’ve seen a couple of videos were people wired up two of them to get in and out flow (it didn’t make sense to me). Thanks! 🙏
Hello Dan, thanks for the review. I'm looking for a solution to monitor my LiFEPO4 battery pack as I cycle it so I know where the capacity is at any given moment.
Question: Does the Meter store the dynamic present capacity of the pack when the display is off, or does it lose it ? I'm hoping that even if the display is off, as long as it is still connected to the battery pack it will retain the remaining (or cumulative) capacity.
Sorry about slow reply... When the meter measures zero current flow it "times out" at about 20 seconds and the display goes blank. Upon sensing current again, the display wakes back up and proper accumulated capacity is shown. The "ok" button can also be pressed and proper accumulated power will be displayed. The dynamic accumulated capacity is volatile and if the unit loses power, the capacity reading will be goofed. The two supply connection could be used with a small backup battery to prevent this scenario. The OAH setting is non-volatile. Thanks.
Really excellent and informative video. Many thanks
Thanks. Glad the video helped.
Thanks for the video, i bought the same unit and you are right the instructions are worthless. Because of this video im able to put to good use now. What kinda switch do you have and how did u wire it. Sorry excuse my ignorance im fairly new to electronic stuff.
Thanks for the kind comments. I'll look at doing another video that explores some of the other features. Thanks.
So in order to charge a battery, you need 2 sources of power right? One for the display the other to charge battery. Or use same power supply for both display and to charge battery. Am i correct? Sorry i have adhd and its hard to understand or to follow along a whole video.
@@nesioraul You can use it with 2 power supplies or single supply. If the battery/device you are monitoring is lower than 10ish volts you would need a the 2 power supply hookup.
Raul, I just posted another video on this unit that describes more features. Maybe this info will help. Part 2 video: th-cam.com/video/cp2qrXKJ654/w-d-xo.html
Great explainer!
Thanks. Glad the video helped.
Very goof video!! Thanks a lot! I 've a question, is possible to have the screen at 4 mts of battery cable? IT means can the flat cable, be cutted and put extra cable around 4 mts? Thanks a lot!
Not sure if I understand the question fully. I do believe you would be ok to extend the cable between the sensor and the LCD panel. Thanks.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Thanks, yes it was my question, sorry my englsih is not the best of the world!! Thanks for your answer!
@@osr75 Yes I extended the sensor cable about 18inches no problem
Great Job very helpful, thank you for sharing.
Hi,
Sir.please tell me,voltage and Amp,adjustable?and maximum and minimum voltage and Amp this meter?
Chinglish manuals are universally bad. Thank thee for the clarification.
One question: There are four versions of these meters with different voltage and current limits.
What is/was the model number for the one in the video.
Yeeco Model B1700563. 10-90V 0-200A
Hi...I have to say thanks a lot for your video...This is by far the most informative video I have found so far on this meter.. I was nearly about ready to toss it in the junk bin.. But now, I feel that I can actually put it to good use now, Thanks again.. 👍👍👍 Is there a way to make the display STAY ON ???
Thanks for the kind comments. If you question is about the display turning off when low current is detected, my answer would be not that I am aware of.
Hi.. Hope you can advise. I have set my BAT reading to 400AH (total batteries capability) and the BPC reading to 100%..batteries fully charged with shorepower over 12 hours.
Problem on the monitor: the batteries are reading 13.4v but the graphic and AH% of batteries is 61% and falling. Any ideas would be great.
Hello. Sorry, I am not sure that I understand your question. I just did a part 2 on this unit, take a look and see if it helps. Here: th-cam.com/video/cp2qrXKJ654/w-d-xo.html
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Ok thanks.. I worked it out though. The BAT setting is the capacity of one battery not the whole bank. I set it yo 200 (one battery) and the reading jumped to 100%. So pleased😀
But would You recommend this to monitor boat batteries on the boat “diy project”
Sorry, I do not have enough experience with this unit yet to fully recommend it. If you are monitoring your batteries, I think it should be fine. I would not use it to control charge because of lack of experience. Thanks.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Yes this is good to monitor any battery system which is being charged and discharged and show live battery capacity.
WOW, your video is so good man, I am trying to measure the capacity of both of my Lifepo4 batteries and is looking for an easy precise way to do it, unless you know of an easier way? Thanks again you are a good teacher. I am building my own 100 amp hour solar capable power station using 2 LifePo4 batteries and I love the look of this Ammeter because it has a color LCD and also supports multiple functions too, cheers!
Thanks for the kind comments. I think this might be one the least expensive monitors I have seen. However, I do not think I would rely on it to manage the charging of a lithium battery pack.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Great, now are you referring to a custom lithium battery pack or manufacturer built? Thanks
Great video, thank you so much very helpful. How do i set the max capacity to 100 percent, or any percent? Battery display shows 00 but it should read 100 as battery is full, the voltage reading is correct.
Have had a few questions about this device and I still need to figure out a few more aspects as well. Sorry I can not answer your question right now. I'll look at doing another video. Thanks.
Just posted another video with more information about this device. Maybe it will help. th-cam.com/video/cp2qrXKJ654/w-d-xo.html
@@DanPattenAudioG33k You need to fully charge your battery then input the capacity of the battery/Batteries into the OAH setting.
Thanks for explaining this. 👍🏻
Glad it has helped.
how long is the ribbon cable from the hall sensor to the display?
Approximately 8 inches.
Yeah, the cable is the limiting factor. Mine came with two cables. One 8 inch, and the other about 16 inches. But mine is going in golf cart and I need about a 10 foot one. So I cut it and made it longer with a shielded ethernet cable. I hope the extra distance doesn't mess up the readings.
@@mattadata2 shielded "should" be good. A buddy of mine extended his with some unshielded wire, running right next to some power cables and had all kinds of interference. I was going to try to fix it for him, but then he got pissed an trashed it.
it's very helpful, thanks
You are welcome :)
less than an amplifier?
Thank'S for your video , it help me , but i got problem when the power go to the batterie , the WH don't go up , and H too , just don't know why !! Got 2s2p lead acid batterie setup for 210 ah , so i put the OAH to 210 and calibrate the voltage ! When discharging , that work , but when charging , no good !! If you want , i be happy if you do another video with other feature !
Your welcome. Not sure if I understand your question. In the future, might do a little more work with this meter and if I do, I'll make a video.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Thank's for your answer, i just reset and it work good now ! If you do another video , that will be great !
Just loaded a Part 2 video: th-cam.com/video/cp2qrXKJ654/w-d-xo.html
Maybe this new info will help.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k thank's i will look at it for sure .
Dalivari.undo
I cant see skimatics please put camera closer please.
Try this link: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1e7Xwhwv-vwBjd_xTrLCmZqYW6PH4nbS_?usp=sharing
This isn't real time. Replay it and move your face closer...
Even after watching this video I'm so frustrated with this goddamn thing it doesn't seem like these calibration methods are working with my meter.
Sorry that you are fighting the meter. Have you had any success? Make sure you are calibrating at a high current.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k yes I finally figured it out last night the unit was okay I was just doing something wrong. When I was calibrating the amps I was adjusting from where it says zero in blue but you're not supposed to calibrate from there you're supposed to calibrate from the +.4 or -.4 the zero in blue is just a zero it out when you start with no current.
That was my mistake my bad but your video definitely helped me get through this stupid thing. I can't believe how horrible their instructions are and it doesn't even show anything for calibration on instructions. 🤦
Thanks Dan man new subscriber for sure! 🙏