This Hall effect sensing method/system is the best system to monitor DC current. Since it is a contactless measurement, it's miles better than the shunt system. The shunt current measurement system puts the measurement in the negative side of the DC circuit, which only works in an isolated simple system. When the system is complicated (like in RV battery system), the DC current is bypassed through a complicated grounding/negative wiring. The shunt system fails miserably. If you want a reliable DC current measurement system, go for this Hall sensing system. With Adrian's explanation, the voltage and current calibration can be done by the end users! Great!
Thanks Just what the doctor ordered. I just received my voltage current monitor, and it was out of calibration by -5 amps. Now it operates as it should. Thanks again🙂🙂
I am honored to see the test video of the battery monitor you took. We have released the new KG140F, which has a larger color screen display and supports Bluetooth control.
I liked your video. The back ground noises (of the home life) were a bit distracting, but was okay enough to hear your instructions. Thanks for the video!
@@AdrianCubas1980 Well... It is working very well! I could even hear the rooster 🐓, outside, very clearly! It may have a setting for noise reduction? Which may help?
@@chrissewell1608 In my next videos I will use the RODE microphone. In all my previous videos I used the audio from my mobile, which is horrible. That's why any unwanted sound sneaks in :)
Unfortunately, the drok I showed in this video broke down for no apparent reason and I had to use another solution in one of my DIY Powerbox. I think I remember that the drok automatically detects the capacity of the battery system after a discharge-charge cycle. If in your system you use lithium batteries with a BMS then the drok capacity values will be more accurate. It is because the BMS will prevent the batteries from being discharged or overcharged beyond what is recommended in a stable range during all discharge-charge cycles. I recommend you the Jehugarcia TH-cam channel. He always uses the drok on his devices and in a video related to a powerbank for Puerto Rico I think I remember talking about this. Any doubt I am here. regards
Adrian, awesome video. I have the exact same drok, your video is the only video regarding this model. Would you know or have you tried to add a relay to this model Drok. If you have I would really appreciate it if you told me how you did it. Thanks Adrian, be well
Please download the manufacturer's user manual at this address: drive.google.com/file/d/1RX4ZsaWpls2C3LWp6sfDmA8qn13IpVnc/view?usp=drivesdk In the third scheme it appears how to connect the RELAY. It can be very useful if you want to program the drok to disconnect or connect the circuit you make. Keep in mind that where LOAD appears it refers to the current source and where Battery appears it refers to the device that consumes electricity. Thank you and good luck.
Adrian Cubas , still haven't been able to figure out those instructions on adding a relay. My relay has 4 contacts as do most. 3 are positive and one is negative. On the diagram instructions its showing all negative leads. And what goes in the Vext - and + inputs. Its very confusing. Have you tried messing with it? Thanks and good day.
It is true that the instructions in the manual can be confusing, I will try to clarify your doubt. I am planning to make a video next Friday, October 5 (2019) explaining how to make connections. Meanwhile keep in mind that the RELAY has two contacts for activation and two for the continuity or discontinuity of one of the positive or negative pathways, just like a switch to turn on the lights in a house for example. Greetings and stay tuned for the new video.
Just curious why did you calibrate at 12 and 24 volts? Did it say to? Is that best practice? The menu said 10V and 40V....what do those values mean? I assumed it meant calibrate at 10V and 40V. Thanks for the video!
The reason is very simple, I don't have a power supply that reaches 40V. hahhaa. It would also be necessary to use 4 bulbs of (12V) connected in series instead of only two. My main intention with this video was to show the methodology of this process. Calibration between two different and "far apart" voltage values is required because the sensor coil employs a bipolar transistor that does not have a purely linear behavior. This results in averaged measurement values that are closer to the actual value. Thanks for asking. Greetings
Please download the manufacturer's user manual at this address: drive.google.com/file/d/1RX4ZsaWpls2C3LWp6sfDmA8qn13IpVnc/view?usp=drivesdk In the third scheme it appears how to connect the RELAY. It can be very useful if you want to program the drok to disconnect or connect the circuit you make. Keep in mind that where LOAD appears it refers to the current source and where Battery appears it refers to the device that consumes electricity. Thank you and good luck.
I just got mine in but... the directions say to face the hope facing the battery and not the load. I have the positive and negative wires going to the positive post and negative post on the fuse block it displays the voltage but will not show battery percentage or amp use... I’m at a loss
Good video, but I'm not having any luck with mine. I go though the calibration and after I save it it will be good on Low current. High current it will be off. I think there's something wrong with my meter. In calibration, if I go up in the current number and go a little too high. I go back down one digit and the current reading drops to 0. Not sure what's going on. I've been working with electronics for 40 years and never seen such a thing.
@AdrianCubas1980 I think it is also. After I posted that comment, I tried again. After that, it was reading 8 amps when there was no current flowing. Guess I'll try another one.
The Drok can measure the battery capacity, although I prefer to use this other Aliexpress product. It is very economical and I find it more accurate for this type of measurement. Is my affiliate link, no extra cost for you. Thanks ali.ski/dfOtqb
@@AdrianCubas1980 Hi Adrian! Thank you for your material! One question: Do this product to measure battery capacity that you suggested have a cut off for low voltage protection? Is it configurable? I work with LiFePo4 battery that needs a cutt off at 11,6V (2.9 for each of its 4 cells). I didn't see the cables for monitoring each cell during battery capacity test. Do you recomend one that monitore this also?
@@gsilos Greetings Fabiano. In this meter there are two programmable functions OVP (Over Voltage Protection) and LOP (Under Voltage Protection). If programmed correctly, this module could maintain an appropriate voltage range for your battery type (LiFePo4). However, I do not recommend this module as an exclusive BMS, but rather as an additional protection. I can suggest ypu for example this BMS amzn.to/2CsLwpF from Amazon or this one on Aliexpress ali.ski/RrRGA If you only have the independent cells then you need a BMS or a Battery Protection Circuit for security reasons . On the other hand, if your battery is encapsulated, it may already have a BMS inside. Another detail, I think I remember that the minimum voltage of a LiFePo4 cell is around 2.5V, not 2.9V, as you tell me, although I may be wrong. The maximum voltage of these cells is 3.2V (four cells 12.8V) Greetings, your subscription is appreciated.
@@AdrianCubas1980 I got it to reset. Just need to cycle through the main screen options till the rectangular dot goes off the screen(after LOP I think) and then just press OK
You need to configure the OAH parameter. This will prevent it from being overcharged or over discharged to a lower or higher value and will set the limits for capacity. This video by Jehu Garcia can help you (6:35). th-cam.com/video/m04CXhoQ2jU/w-d-xo.html
A 55W car bulb consumes approximately 4.6A but when a voltage of 12V is applied to it. This power supply reaches up to 30V, which would mean more than double the consumption and the bulb would burn out during the tests. I just didn't have a 24V bulb lol
You are assuming that your bench power supply is correct. You have not shown that the bench power supply is actually correct. All you have done is make both meters read the same arbitrary unsubstantiated reading.
Of course I checked previously that the readings of my "BENCH POWER SUPPLY" were "correct". The instrument I used was a Fluke multimeter that is not the super super, but it's the best I have. The intention was to show a procedure to access the hidden calibration menu of the Droke. I do not think it is economically feasible to try to calibrate the droke as it should be. The ideal would be in a specialized laboratory of some respectable company, with certified instruments, with appropriate humidity and temperature conditions, considering the possible sources of electrical radio interference on the apparatus to be calibrated etc. regards
Life saver! I have been looking for days how to setup the unit through the hidden menu. Thank you sooo much!!
This Hall effect sensing method/system is the best system to monitor DC current. Since it is a contactless measurement, it's miles better than the shunt system. The shunt current measurement system puts the measurement in the negative side of the DC circuit, which only works in an isolated simple system. When the system is complicated (like in RV battery system), the DC current is bypassed through a complicated grounding/negative wiring. The shunt system fails miserably. If you want a reliable DC current measurement system, go for this Hall sensing system. With Adrian's explanation, the voltage and current calibration can be done by the end users! Great!
Thanks
Just what the doctor ordered. I just received my voltage current monitor, and it was out of calibration by -5 amps. Now it operates as it should. Thanks again🙂🙂
Thank you so much - i was searching the whole internet for this info...and now i finally found it in your perfectly explained Video
THX ALOT!!!!!!
Good thing this video helped you! Cheers
I am honored to see the test video of the battery monitor you took. We have released the new KG140F, which has a larger color screen display and supports Bluetooth control.
Great. I'm really happy to find this and some other vids on this unit. I was worried about the long haul figuring it out on my own somehow.
Great video! Just what I needed to do. THANKS!
I liked your video. The back ground noises (of the home life) were a bit distracting, but was okay enough to hear your instructions. Thanks for the video!
I just bought a Rode directional microphone and I think I have to record at times where there is not so much noise. haha thanks for your comment
@@AdrianCubas1980 Well... It is working very well! I could even hear the rooster 🐓, outside, very clearly! It may have a setting for noise reduction? Which may help?
@@chrissewell1608 In my next videos I will use the RODE microphone. In all my previous videos I used the audio from my mobile, which is horrible. That's why any unwanted sound sneaks in :)
Thank you very much, this video was very helpful !
Excellent. Thank you for the help!
This was a very well explained tutorial. Thank-you!
Thanks for video!! If You could explain also to calibrate a pb or lifepo4 battery... Thanks
I think you would just calibrate the meter, for 12 volts, and then the Amp Hours of the battery being used. Ie. Any battery, at 12V, and 7Ah?
Hello nice video very help full. Received mine this week and installed and adjusted. Do you know
how to adjust the battery ah? And battery percentage?
Unfortunately, the drok I showed in this video broke down for no apparent reason and I had to use another solution in one of my DIY Powerbox. I think I remember that the drok automatically detects the capacity of the battery system after a discharge-charge cycle. If in your system you use lithium batteries with a BMS then the drok capacity values will be more accurate. It is because the BMS will prevent the batteries from being discharged or overcharged beyond what is recommended in a stable range during all discharge-charge cycles. I recommend you the Jehugarcia TH-cam channel. He always uses the drok on his devices and in a video related to a powerbank for Puerto Rico I think I remember talking about this. Any doubt I am here. regards
Thanks for posting this !
Adrian, awesome video. I have the exact same drok, your video is the only video regarding this model. Would you know or have you tried to add a relay to this model Drok. If you have I would really appreciate it if you told me how you did it. Thanks Adrian, be well
Please download the manufacturer's user manual at this address: drive.google.com/file/d/1RX4ZsaWpls2C3LWp6sfDmA8qn13IpVnc/view?usp=drivesdk
In the third scheme it appears how to connect the RELAY. It can be very useful if you want to program the drok to disconnect or connect the circuit you make. Keep in mind that where LOAD appears it refers to the current source and where Battery appears it refers to the device that consumes electricity. Thank you and good luck.
Adrian Cubas , still haven't been able to figure out those instructions on adding a relay. My relay has 4 contacts as do most. 3 are positive and one is negative. On the diagram instructions its showing all negative leads. And what goes in the Vext - and + inputs. Its very confusing. Have you tried messing with it? Thanks and good day.
It is true that the instructions in the manual can be confusing, I will try to clarify your doubt. I am planning to make a video next Friday, October 5 (2019) explaining how to make connections. Meanwhile keep in mind that the RELAY has two contacts for activation and two for the continuity or discontinuity of one of the positive or negative pathways, just like a switch to turn on the lights in a house for example. Greetings and stay tuned for the new video.
Looking forward to it Adrian, take it easy and good luck with video
Just curious why did you calibrate at 12 and 24 volts? Did it say to? Is that best practice? The menu said 10V and 40V....what do those values mean? I assumed it meant calibrate at 10V and 40V. Thanks for the video!
The reason is very simple, I don't have a power supply that reaches 40V. hahhaa. It would also be necessary to use 4 bulbs of (12V) connected in series instead of only two. My main intention with this video was to show the methodology of this process.
Calibration between two different and "far apart" voltage values is required because the sensor coil employs a bipolar transistor that does not have a purely linear behavior. This results in averaged measurement values that are closer to the actual value. Thanks for asking. Greetings
@@AdrianCubas1980 Great! Thanks for the answer.
Please download the manufacturer's user manual at this address: drive.google.com/file/d/1RX4ZsaWpls2C3LWp6sfDmA8qn13IpVnc/view?usp=drivesdk
In the third scheme it appears how to connect the RELAY. It can be very useful if you want to program the drok to disconnect or connect the circuit you make. Keep in mind that where LOAD appears it refers to the current source and where Battery appears it refers to the device that consumes electricity. Thank you and good luck.
awesome! Thanks!!
Could you attach a 200A shunt and calibrate current to use with this meter?
I'm not entirely sure. It requires a little experimentation. Theoretically I think it is a good idea
I just got mine in but... the directions say to face the hope facing the battery and not the load. I have the positive and negative wires going to the positive post and negative post on the fuse block it displays the voltage but will not show battery percentage or amp use... I’m at a loss
do you still have the problem ?. Please give me more details to see how I can help you. A photo of the connections you made would help
Good video, but I'm not having any luck with mine. I go though the calibration and after I save it it will be good on Low current. High current it will be off. I think there's something wrong with my meter. In calibration, if I go up in the current number and go a little too high. I go back down one digit and the current reading drops to 0. Not sure what's going on. I've been working with electronics for 40 years and never seen such a thing.
It sounds to me like you have a defective unit. It shouldn't be that way.
@AdrianCubas1980 I think it is also. After I posted that comment, I tried again. After that, it was reading 8 amps when there was no current flowing. Guess I'll try another one.
Nice video. Question,, is this set up usable to test capacity of batteries ( AH or WH ? ) I'm thinking to buy me such a meter..
The Drok can measure the battery capacity, although I prefer to use this other Aliexpress product. It is very economical and I find it more accurate for this type of measurement. Is my affiliate link, no extra cost for you. Thanks
ali.ski/dfOtqb
@@AdrianCubas1980 Hi Adrian! Thank you for your material! One question: Do this product to measure battery capacity that you suggested have a cut off for low voltage protection? Is it configurable? I work with LiFePo4 battery that needs a cutt off at 11,6V (2.9 for each of its 4 cells). I didn't see the cables for monitoring each cell during battery capacity test. Do you recomend one that monitore this also?
@@gsilos Greetings Fabiano. In this meter there are two programmable functions OVP (Over Voltage Protection) and LOP (Under Voltage Protection). If programmed correctly, this module could maintain an appropriate voltage range for your battery type (LiFePo4). However, I do not recommend this module as an exclusive BMS, but rather as an additional protection. I can suggest ypu for example this BMS amzn.to/2CsLwpF from Amazon or this one on Aliexpress ali.ski/RrRGA If you only have the independent cells then you need a BMS or a Battery Protection Circuit for security reasons . On the other hand, if your battery is encapsulated, it may already have a BMS inside. Another detail, I think I remember that the minimum voltage of a LiFePo4 cell is around 2.5V, not 2.9V, as you tell me, although I may be wrong. The maximum voltage of these cells is 3.2V (four cells 12.8V) Greetings, your subscription is appreciated.
Hello. Anyone knows how can I reset the counter for used watts and amps / hour?
Try leaving it unpowered for several hours.
@@AdrianCubas1980 I got it to reset. Just need to cycle through the main screen options till the rectangular dot goes off the screen(after LOP I think) and then just press OK
hey i try setting the meter up but all what i try its not working right
Did you verify that it was not broken?
@@AdrianCubas1980 no it’s not it just not working the right way
@@AdrianCubas1980 when I set it for the voltage or the amps it’s changing
good job, just picked up one, of course Chinese are very bad with instructions. fantastic with price
How to setup the battery capacity when it's Full Charged
You need to configure the OAH parameter. This will prevent it from being overcharged or over discharged to a lower or higher value and will set the limits for capacity. This video by Jehu Garcia can help you (6:35).
th-cam.com/video/m04CXhoQ2jU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks. A big help.
Thank you, sir.
Cheers. The manual was trash. Well the manual appear to be for a different system with a load cell. Meh. It was a good price, and you helped. Thanks
Why two bulbs in series? Just one 50w bulb will draw about 4 amps.
A 55W car bulb consumes approximately 4.6A but when a voltage of 12V is applied to it. This power supply reaches up to 30V, which would mean more than double the consumption and the bulb would burn out during the tests. I just didn't have a 24V bulb lol
Fortunately, seeing your video, JUNTEK has launched a new KG140F. We look forward to your comments. If you are interested, you can contact me
New model? Awesome!!! adriancubas@gmail.com
Thank you sir.
Thank you for letting us know. Drok's Manual is a JOKE! 👎🤪
You are assuming that your bench power supply is correct. You have not shown that the bench power supply is actually correct. All you have done is make both meters read the same arbitrary unsubstantiated reading.
Of course I checked previously that the readings of my "BENCH POWER SUPPLY" were "correct". The instrument I used was a Fluke multimeter that is not the super super, but it's the best I have. The intention was to show a procedure to access the hidden calibration menu of the Droke. I do not think it is economically feasible to try to calibrate the droke as it should be. The ideal would be in a specialized laboratory of some respectable company, with certified instruments, with appropriate humidity and temperature conditions, considering the possible sources of electrical radio interference on the apparatus to be calibrated etc. regards
@@AdrianCubas1980 Thanks for confirming the accuracy of the Bench Supply with
a Fluke DMM...;-)