LMAO, as a Marine "vet" (whom usually takes the brunt most the time) when you said "I'm not a Navy SEAL, so I don't like to talk about myself" I laughed and hit that like button!
In MY opinion, your 20 MOA rail explanation was "perfect". I found it both understandable a accurate (no pun intended). Hopefully, it helped a lot of people out as I think it may be one of the most misunderstood concepts I see in optics mounting.
Hi and I want to say that I have a great deal of respect for your Knowledge and Experience. I have recently purchased a brand new wheeler scope leveling tool. My Father a mechanic by trade that could build houses or do pretty much anything that required intelligence and ambition, taught me a very valuable lesson about buying and testing levels (in fact I remember feeling uncomfortable while he was telling the hardware store owner that he only had one level in the store that was actually level and plum. I would have been about 6 yrs old). The way you prove That a level is actually level is to find a surface that is very very close to level and flat that has position repeatability (lines and edges that are perpendicular to each other). Place the level on the surface and pay an extreme amount of attention to the bubbles position left to right and swing the level 180 degrees to the exact same spot and see if the level bubble placement lands in the exact same spot (If the bubble has shifted the level has error in it my friend). I hope that you double check your levels and then I can tell you how to make them work accurately even though they have error. Thanks for the Brilliant content and information. Thanks again Donnie
Dude I thought I knew a lot about mounting scopes ! Your videos have shown me I’m ignorant and need you to come to SD and teach me! I love your videos. Your last video on mounting scopes is exactly how I’ve been mounting them for years. But now after this video I realize I know very little. I’d love you to come to my area and give a class for a few days and mount scopes for long range work. Then let’s shoot them and prove out you concepts. I need more of your knowledge please.
After listening to the first three to four minutes......this is the first thought I had. LOL The problem with youtube....is folks don't just get to the point. I don't have all day to listen to you all.....just want to learn something and move on. Good video once you got to the point.
@rebel1988yota there is a fine line between "talking about yourself" and establishing your technical experience. Look at many you tubers.....they are not really qualified to give their opinions. This guy is.
@@ExFed2021 I don't doubt his credentials.....all the more reason to just get to the point. Lots of great info on his account, that's why I keep watching.
@@nismojukerich2994 Constructive criticism isn't complaining. Fact is...he has great content....no need for the 4 minutes of yapping your lips, just get to the point. Simple. If the Content provider doesn't like my criticism....he can say something or he can improve his content. Really is that simple. If he doesn't want criticism, he shouldn't put video's on youtube. Continue on......
I was considering mounting my Leupold Mk-5 to a slightly canted Sig Cross in order to create a custom fit to the most natural/comfortable cheek weld.... Your education on the MOA rail likely saved me a lot of future frustration....
I watched hours and hours of videos and Brownell just released a video saying the same info in this video. That set me on the right path and now I discovered this video. Planning to mount my scope next week
Thanks for taking the time to make this, easy to follow and just logical. the tall target test is verification of your advice and verification of a good setup, plan and simple 😊👍
Gary, I just recently discovered your videos/channel and am favorably impressed - not only with the information you present, but perhaps especially with the quality of your presentation. This is yet another excellent instructional video and is very valuable to those of us intent on “getting it right”. Hooo-ah!
Thanks Marty, that means a lot! I’m glad you found us and appreciate your kind words. Hope to see you in the comments often. Join us on Fridays for our livestreams! -Gary
Excellent and very straight forward! Personally, I love the math involved as this level is a walk in the park. I am really enjoying getting back into being on the range. Being someone that ran an electrical standards lab (defense), I always question my measurements.
I legit was writing a comment on your how to video that my gun would crack a groundhog out to 400 yards no problem but past that im way off and i had no clue what was going on until i watched your how to video for mounting and your long target. I never had a target explained the way u did in that video which opened my eyes. Since i was a kid we always checked to make sure everything was zeroed a inch high at 100 but never once did i see a long target used the way u explained. Im pumped i believe u have changed my game 100%. Every scope ive had put on in the last 30 years is about to get long targeted. But honetly we always used 2nd fp i been using ffp for last couple years on my newer guns and im loving them. With this information it will sure clean up my groundhog percentage past 600. It always took 3 or 4 to get on target if it didnt run by then just assumed it was wind out at distance but now i understand thank u. This just kinda cemented everything from the part 1 and part 2 videos. So glad i humbled myself into watching them. Really appriciate u taking the time to explain all of this to us for free. I bought your scope mounting kit a couple scopes ago but i never watched part 2 til recently. Prob be trying the long target out tmrw if i can find them somewhere if not ill make one but regardless this is happening tmrw. After i set my scope up tonight.
Thank you for this lecture! I never was aware of it. I followed your instructions and made the necessary corrections. I also used a bubble level that fastens to the rail.
Great presentation. I think that a canted scope poses problems as detailed in the scope erector illustration even with a zero rail/base but only at noticeable distance when substantially elevating. Bravo on the excellent presentation.
i was already familiar with the information but, i really enjoyed the way you came across putting it out there. will be checking out more info from you for sure. thanks
Thanks for all these videos, very informative! I'm a former US Army Sapper myself, so I know CQB well enough. Precision long range shooting? Not so much. I've got alot to learn, and it's great to be able to hear it from a subject matter expert.
Mounted My Arken EP5 and followed your video. Went to range and at 100 yrds. After zero averaged sub .5 MIN. ON Every grouping. Using Budget build Axis 2 precision. I will always mount my scopes with your method from now on. Ive shot this 6.5 creedmoor to 1120yrds at a 30" gong.
Great video, my takeaway, always verify my mounting work and the scope quality by shooting a turret tracking test no matter what mounting method is used. With your mounting method, I might be tempted to attach the ant-cant bubble while the scope is off the rifle sitting square on it’s bottom turret housing on a level surface if it balanced well.
I use wood shims for Micro adjusting everything. This gives you a incredible precise end result. Now if I could only shoot haha. Really love watching your videos.
So I am a Tool and Die maker, Hitting .0001 of an inch on a CNC is much harder to do than you think, there is also the fitup between the male and female screws, on top of the other surfaces that need to be machined, each one of those things has a tolerance and they stack. A bubble level isn't super precise in the world of machining either, they make specialty machinist levels that are far more accurate. I am not arguing that this isn't the best way to do it, because that is outside my wheelhouse, I don't level scopes professionally, even if this is the best way of doing it though, there will be error.
I don’t disagree with any of that but with multimillion dollar companies that have decent QC processes in place, the surfaces are flat, level and parallel within a tolerance more than adequate to level the scope. And you’re right bubble levels are not that accurate and that is what you use to level. My point is the surfaces are WAY more accurate than the levels. To properly level a scope we need to get within less than 1 degree. The accuracy of the surfaces even with all tolerances and imperfections stacked will not hold us back from achieving that. Thanks for watching and I appreciate your thoughtful input and experience! -Gary
How satisfying it was to finally have someone addressing these Myths! Most people “know” stuff without understanding the why and how behind… Specially the canted scope on the rifle, like Hodnett said “it must be level to the world” but again, understand why and how makes you realize the added variant of a moa rail in the equation. Just discovered your channel! You got me subscribed and will definitely be looking forward for your content! Ps. Here the saying is, how do you know if a guy is a sniper… don’t worry he will tell you! 😂 Nice video! Cheers! 🇨🇦
There's a lot to take in & I appreciate you taking the time to explain it all. What I discovered recently is a jig you slide between the rail & bottom of the scope& when fully forward creates a perfectly level scope. It's all about geometry (in my mind anyway😁) Not sure if you've seen or had chance to use one.
Great video, very thorough explanations! I understood the basics of what you talked about prior to watching the video, but now I understand it more in depth of the what and why.
Good video I actually thinking about remounting my scope with a rail on my Remington 700 tactical 308 and I was debating whether to go with a zero MOA or a 20 MOA very informative. I’ll try to do my best and go with your advice. Thank you.
@@johnknorr1140 if you do, here’s my updated complete guide to scope mounting. Part II is on the channel as well. How To Mount A Scope The Right Way - Precision Scope Mounting - Part 1 of 2 th-cam.com/video/OG8CchRYlDw/w-d-xo.html
@paramounttactical you posted this a year ago and you're still responding to your viewers to help them. Between the excellent quality of this video and what I just said you've quickly earned another subscriber sir. I hope all is well on your end in these troubling times, thank you for the great video
Just found your channel and I’m glad I did. I’m just getting in to long distance shooting and your vids are way helpful. Thank you for your service and your info.
I'm glad you made this video because I leveled the rifle with a magwell vice with some wobble. Hence, it appears my cross hairs are very close to being verticle to plumb Bob, but mr Bob shows some error.
Much respect for a great video. Its not often that I come across a video that's truly useful. Ive been shooting and hunting for over 40 years and have seen many changes in the industry over that time. You provided one of the best informative and instructional videos I have every viewed. It shows that you enjoy what you do. Thanks for your service and last like you I dont like trolls who know less than nothing and act like clowns. Just keyboard warriors hiding behind a computer screen where they dont have to answer for their actions.
Thanks for the info. I am new to scopes and this definitely is good to know. I did use the turrets to mount my scope and i was very cautious to make sure the scope was level with a level.
Leveling to the rail. I did not consider that one and took it for granted that my rail will be level to my action. I need to go back and confirm. Thanks!
Thank you for this video. I am in first grade compared to your ability's and just getting into air rifles at age 70 but your information is priceless even for me.
Your an excellent teacher. I am brand new to learning about scopes and long distance shooting. Thank you so much. I have one question, what is a turret.
1st off …. Thank You For Your Service Brother 2nd … I am a long range shooter as well and I agree on 100% of everything you discussed in your video. Nice Job!!
New here. I was actually researching new scopes for my crossbow and came about your channel. I watched the one on leveling the gun and mounting the scope to be level to the gun. Being a lifetime engineer this makes total sense. Thanks for sharing your experience in our armed forces and thank you for your service! Keep up the great videos to help us all become better marksmen/markswomen, both on the range, self-defense, and ethical harvesting of our game.
Glad you found us Steve! Welcome to the Paramount family! We look forward to seeing you in the comments often. Make sure to join us live on Fridays! If you ever have any questions don’t hesitate to contact me either on here or via email. Thanks, Gary
Great information, so many people don't know you can place a small piece of a mirror on the front of their scope [this will give a reflection of the reticle] to check the reticle inside the scope, this will tell if the reticle is centered up-down -left-right..
You absolutely can but that only tells you so much. People also tend to adjust their guns to make the reticle plumb. Just bc your reticle is plumb in the mirror, doesn’t mean your optic is plumb to the gun, or the reticle is plumb to the optic. It all matters. How you mount a scope is ultimately irrelevant. What is important is to test and the only way to confirm all the above (or diagnose issues) is to shoot a tall target test. If you don’t confirm on a tall target, you’re just assuming you’re good. Thanks for watching! -Gary
I've found that using a flat steel ruler is even easier than using the wheeler levels. Just get the scope somewhat snug in the rings so it will only rotate with some force applied to it, then rest one edge of the ruler on your pic rail while lifting the other edge to contact the flat bottom of your scope tube. It's super fast and as long as you use a good quality ruler like a Starrett your scope will be perfectly level.
🤔 pretty smart. I can’t think of a reason that wouldn’t work for mounting in rings. Probably wouldn’t work on most mounts given they don’t typically have flats below turret housing but for rings it’s quite brilliant. Thanks for sharing and watching! I might have to do a video on that and I’ll be sure to give you credit. This channel is meant to be a community and sharing info like this is what makes us all better! Thanks, Gary
Thank You Gary!! Great Info.. Opened my eyes on a lot. I didn’t think a bubble level could be off much. I have always used plumb bob and I’ve never shot a tall target to check anything but I will soon.
Definitely shoot a tall target test. You can even make one at home. Shooting that test is the only real way to know your optic is square and tracking correctly. Thanks for watching! -Gary
Good evening Gary! Discovered your channel yesterday. Awesome videos. I’m currently setting up a PCP air rifle for bench rest shooting. I have a Valdada Crusader-2 FFP scope I am trying to get mounted. Never had an issue mounting a scope until now. Watched this video and your scope mounting one to see if I’m missing something. So this evening I took off the scope to start over. I have a Tipton best bench gun vise and I’m also using the Wheeler scope leveling kit. Just like in your video, I have the gun level in both axis, before putting on the the barrel level. After double checking multiple times, the gun is perfectly leveled and secure. Before placing the scope in the rings, I made sure the countertop is flat and level, and set the scope down on the counter to check the turret level and the cross hair. Everything is perfect. Now here is where it gets interesting. Once I place the scope in the rings, and level the scope with the same reference level from the Wheeler set, and then look through the scope, the vertical cross hair is canted and pointed to approximately the 350 degree mark if you were looking at a compass rose. Mind you the level is on the elevation turret and is completely level. Makes zero since to me!! The only way I can get the cross hair squared is to turn the scope which then puts the turret not level and I have to use a laser line on the wall to get the cross hair squared to a leveled gun in both axis. Any input would greatly be appreciated!! Keith
@@paramounttactical But this is the strange part. With the scope setting on the counter, which I verified flat and level, and then placing the level on top of it, the cross hair is completely square and plumb. It only changes when put in the scope rings. I hope it’s not the internals. This Valdada is a $3800 scope!
@@paramounttactical I know. I’m completely baffled! Using the Wheeler level, just checked both ways on the counter. I’m using our island counter, which is quartz, so about as flat as you can be. I’ve got the scope base flat on the counter and have my laser level shining on the wall. The cross hair matches perfect. By the way, THANK YOU, for your service time. I’m an O4 in the Navy and just over 28 years. Almost finished. Can’t wait!!
@@keithrush4168 thank you for your service as well. So when it’s on the counter which you confirmed level, you confirm the turret is level and confirm reticle is level using your laser? And it’s good? Then you put in mount, confirm optic is level with with level on turret, and then use laser to check reticle and the reticle is not plumb?
Great video, glad you ok the plum bob at the end, as that is what I use. I make sure my rifle is level and solid, then use the plum bob. But I seldom shoot more than a hundred yards. At 75 that is far enough to have some fun, and can not afford top notch equipment on a pension. Got my first rifle when I was 11 years old, so have been shooting for some time. I always shot open sights, till my eyes got not so good, and now not shooting as good with a scope as I did with open sights, getting a bit frustrating.
Only knew about tall target test as a way to determine velocity w/o a chrono and verify turret tracking accuracy (e.g., how true the MOA/MIL is). This knowledge of erector being square internally vs thinking environmental conditions causing POI being from where doped had my mind going WHOA! That's it! I'm a Subscriber! I do overkill scope mounting with Wheelers Pro kit and ARISAKA leveling tool, and only have one 20 MOA rail that will get this new info treatment Thanks.
💯! I don’t mind people thinking I’m wrong as long as I’ve done all I can do to make the case. While it can be frustrating when people say you’re wrong or disagree with you I try to look at it as my fault for not making my case well enough. After a video like this that illustrates why I believe what I do or use the methodology that I use, if you still disagree, well… you do you. 😂 Thanks for watching! -Gary
Awesome vid! New to your channel and precision shooting and you have been my guide! Question though, won’t canting the rifle with even a 0 moa rail cause wind age/elevation dialing issues since you will at some point have to dial for elevation and holding the rifle sideways will no longer put the scope directly over the center of the barrel and your cross point of scope and bullet trajectory will crossed horizontally and vertically? For example if you hold your rifle 45 deg, in order for the scope to cross the bullets path you will have to dial to the right and down and the further you look in the scope the further to the right the scopes trajectory is from the bullets path so you have to dial left and down to adjust for further distances? So sorry for the poorly worded explanation, this is something I have been thinking about for a while and wanted to pick your brain in case I am way off Thanks!!
Yes, chanting the rifle with 0 MOA once the optic is attached will cause variation. If you install the optic slightly canted and level the optic, causing the rifle to be canted with optic level, will cause little to no impact variation. The optic being level is what matters the most. Optimally the optic and the rifle are on the same plane.
Lots of great info, but getting a bit hung up on the point about canted rifle not mattering if you are using a 0moa rail. Wouldn't there still be some horizontal error at range if the bullet crosses your 100 yard zero mark at a slight left to right or right to left angle?
Excellent video. I experienced the same problem but with a red dot mounted on the right side of a scope. The shooter next to me couldn’t manage to zero his red dot for elevation or windage. Since it was a dot there was no way to see if he was holding parallel on target since the red dot was side mounted at around 45 degrees. Every time he changed windage his height also changed. I noticed him becoming extremely annoyed. So I explained it in similar fashion.
Crystal clear. Excellent illustration. Suggestion for content: A cost effective DIY accurate DMR setup AR10 build that can double for a hunting rifle. You assemble it and shoot it 800+ yards.
@@paramounttactical reviewing your info as tune up to mount a Arken SH4 gen2 on AR10 with 20 moa mount. Very on point to get it right the first time. Per your suggestions gotta purchase some more mounting tools. Nothing is better than using the right tools for the job.
Hey Gary, I know you have a ton of comments on this video and I just have 1 question! You said at 16:45 that it's important to ensure that out reticle is squared to the optic. How do we check that? I know how to make sure the scope is level to the rail but how do we know if the reticle is square inside the optic? Thanks for your time!
That is why we don't level an optic off the reticle. Doing so would hide that flaw. By making sure the optic is mechanically leveled to the rail when we do a tall target test or just look through the optic while ensuring it's level using an anticant device, if we look at a plumb line and the reticle is off or we shoot a tall target test and the reticle won't line up when we level the gun, voila! We know the reticle is not plumb inside the optic. I cover that and how to do a tall target test in my Scope Mounting Guide video I just released a couple months ago. Hope that helps! -Gary
@@paramounttactical perfectly explained, I understand it now. So we would know the reticle is off according to the plumb line or tall target test line(which must be perfectly vertical anyways). I appreciate the reply!
The higher a scope is mounted the less elevation adjustment is available. More critical for long range work (e.g., 600 yds +). Also high mounting can interfere with a good consistent cheek weld. Removable cheek risers will help obtain a good cheek weld and you don't have to drill through the buttstock.
I found your scope mounting video very useful. Thank you. I think I have a tip that can improve and make your method even more precise and simple. Let me know what you think. In knife sharpening, I use a tool called an angle cube. It measures angles in 1/100th of a degree and isn't expensive either. 1. You lock in the rifle tight... the rifle doesn't even have to be perfectly level. You lay the angle cube on the rail then push the zero button on the angle cube to zero out the angle it is at. The angle will now read 0.00 2. (Optional) To make sure rifle doesn't move during score ring tightening you could still use the wheeler barrel level and make sure the angle cube reads 0.00 when it sits on it. 3. Put angle cube on turret and rotate scope so it reads 0.00 snd tighten rings to torque spec. Done! 1/100 of a degree accurate! iGaging AngleCube Digital Level + Bevel Gauge 2 in 1 a.co/d/iWMCXxS
You lost me when you called a Rifle a Gun but got me back when I heard Erector lol and great Intel Gary and some Guys don’t realize how important the little things are when you step out past 300 yards plus, I enjoy hitting my Whistle Pigs in another Zip Code but my Old DAV Eyes aren’t what they used to be so EVERY little Tip is Paramount in being successful and enjoying your Day out Shooting. Stay safe my Friend Semper Fidelis and I’ve never seen such magnificent Art Work from a Green Beret Lol I Love it
Of course I reeled back in Marine by using erect in a sentence. 😂 You can leave the boat, but the boat never leaves you. 🤣 Thanks for your service and thanks watching brother! 👊🇺🇸 -Gary
I have to admit I was critical of your video. Turns out I have a scope and the turret is not level. It has a screw right in the center of the turret cap. I use levels and the plumb method combined as I am a little ocd about this topic. Awesome job my friend and awesome video.
The Test which you did with the Scores in the first Part of your Video, did you Test it with the ZCO too? Can i use the Turret too in the ZCO? Thank you .
I love your videos. I bought my first scope based partly on a review you did comparing the Atacr 5-25x56mm to the Zero Compromise scope. I was wondering how the heck am I going to mount this sucker when I saw your scope mounting video. It was exactly what I needed. I also watched your scope mounting myth busters video. It was great. My wife says your arms are too big. I have two children. The reality is if I looked like you, I would have 15.
I have recently been a proponent of the plumb bob method, and I still think it's valuable to do, but you opened my eyes to also make sure the turret is level at the same time. I never thought about the reticle possibly being canted within the scope. I typically use my thickest feeler gauge canted to square the bottom of the scope to the rail. A parallel bar may be better, how do you feel about that method, seems simpler, faster, more reliable and according to your view of modern machined surfaces, perfectly viable.
I actually like that method. I think it’s solid and better than the Ariska or Spuhr wedge. That would work great with rings but with most mounts you don’t have a flat surface under the turret housing. As for plumb bob, I think it’s great to use to check your reticle after you’ve leveled the scope but ultimately method or HOW you level doesn’t matter. They all can work and all have room for mistakes both human and mechanical. What really matters is verification which no one does. Everyone’s living on faith. If you don’t shoot a tall target test then you don’t really know if your scope is mounted correctly, if your reticle is plumb inside the optic, or if it’s tracking correctly. Thanks for watching and I enjoy having these discussions. Make sure to join us live on Wednesdays for our Dangerous Liberty Podcast. -Gary
That gives me a great idea. At least for rail mounted scopes. Use a precision adjustable parallel between the scope bottom and rail. Should be almost guaranteed to be parallel or level scope to rail correct?
I use the Arisaka wedge on rails but then I had a rifle I wanted to use the two piece ring bases on. So I got out a rail I wasn’t using, attached a ring to it, placed the scope in the ring , leveled it and very GENTLY snugged two of the screws. Just enough to keep the scope from rotating. Then removed it from the rail and attached it to the front base after placing the rear ring onto the rear base. Torqued everything down and all was well. Never an issue
Great video! I am in the process of mounting a scope on my cz457. Decided to wait and get some better levels. Thanks for information on the best way to do this. Where is the best place to get the tall target and tracking test?
Great video! I have a 6.5 x 20 x 50 leupold European scope with a canted reticle that has always caused issues...you convinced me to pull it off my ruger 300 prc. What's your best choice for long range plinking?
Just depends on your budget. I personally like Nightforce. You can’t go wrong with the ATACRs and with a 300 PRC I’d suggest the 7-35 but if that’s not in the budget the NX8s are great too. We are a Nightforce dealer so if you are looking for a NF email us services@paramounttactical.com. There’s lots of other good options too though. Vortex, Leupold, or if you want a budget optic check out my review on the Arken EP5. Pretty good optic under $500. Thanks for watching! -Gary
With knowledge comes a responsibility to share that knowledge. Addressing shortcomings becomes important because we learn from our mistakes while learning little from our success. Liked & subbed.
I understand getting the barrel level left to right. But what about leveling fore and aft? If I have rails on the rifle with a built in MOA, do I level the rifle based on that, or do I level off of some other place (receiver?) and then proceed to mount the scope from there? If this was covered, I apologize for missing it.
Nice information. Not an easy subject to explain. When you said elevation becomes windage and windage becomes elevation I got slightly confused until you clarified it a few moments later. Maybe saying windage ends up becomes windage and elevation in this situation. Overall, you explained it wonderfully
I’m your previous video you recommended the Wheeler scope leveling kit. How did that stack up to your machinist level? Was it exact or off just a little? I have been a skeptic of using scope caps but you may have made a believer out of me.
You can check to see if your scope cap is parallel to the bottom of your turret housing by putting the turret housing bottom on a surface you’ve confirmed to be level then placing your level on the turret housing. If it’s not level you can turn your turret until the level is indicating level. It is very rare but it does happen that turret cap isn’t parallel/level with the bottom. Regarding the wheeler level compared to my machinist level it’s a moot point because the wheeler level has set screws that allow you to adjust. 90% come extremely level and accurate but I have seen one out of spec. You simply check it by ensuring it reads levels then turn it 180 and ensure it reads the same on the other side. If it doesn’t, adjust until is does. Hopefully that makes sense. Thanks for watching and great question! -Gary
Quickest and easiest why to mount any scope is to know the distance between the flat of the bottom of the scope and the top of the rail and use a gage block stack up of that number between the bottom of the scope and top of the rail and tighten the rings. Your scope will be square to the rail and won’t can’t as you took up the space with the gage blocks. Remove the blocks and you are done
That’s fine but doesn’t address mounting using 1 piece mounts. I’ve also seen many optics mounted using that method out of plumb. Fact is all methods have plenty of room for error. Unless you test/verify by shooting a tall you’re operating on hope and nothing more. Thanks for watching. -Gary
@@paramounttactical sorry I watched two of your videos and meant to post to the scope mounting video, I mean no disrespect and you are right there’s error in everything. I just like using the bottom of the scope as it’s 98% flat. The problem with bubble leveling is there is 1/16” drop of error in the bubble level if there is any space between the line and bubble. Even my precision level has a small space.
@@geremypelleran8487 lol no disrespect perceived. Just discussing. I try to reply to as many comments as possible so my replies are usually short and blunt. It’s an efficiency thing not being rude or meaning to come across sounding irritated. Thanks for watching and I always enjoy discussions nerding out on technical details. Thanks, Gary
Ive also used multiple methods and tools, all capable in the right hands. However ive adopted using the wedge tools that make the rail and turret housing parallel. There are combinations of rails and Scopes that don't lend themselves to this method but generally it works for most set ups, I don't know of any reason why this doesn't work properly so if you have any input I'd appreciate it.
Wow! Great stuff!! We're you trained with the MOA system or MRAD? or both? Just wondering if you might have a preference for either system,,, I'm not a long range guy by any means but like to have a complete understanding of my system. I've recently become a subscriber and am really looking forward to your great work and the insight you share. You know the deal,,,the learning process never stops,,,, Thank you for the help and please keep up the great work! 😎👍
Thanks Bill. I know both Mil and MOA and was trained on both. I prefer and recommend MIL. I have some virtual optic classes that I’ve given that you can find if you search the channel. Definitely worth watching and I go into depth about Mil and MOA and discuss why I recommend Mil over MOA. Glad you found us. Welcome to the Paramount Family! -Gary
@Paramount Tactical Great! Oh and by the way as I forgot to mention it earlier,,,, THANK YOU for your service! Looking forward to becoming familiar with MIL dot characteristics. 😎👍
Fantastic content! While most people are out there just offering opinions, Gary's out here offering opinions backed by experience and backing it with solid, logical, testable, repeatable explanations. To go beyond that 80% most people can get to, it all comes down to the details - and Gary plainly identifies and explains why those details are so important. Doesn't matter if you're shooting competitively, hunting, or just enjoying some alone time on a range while honing your proficiency.
Thank you. I really appreciate your kind words. I avoided the entire TH-cam world for a long time because I didn’t want to be associated with the silliness that makes up 90% of the channels with firearm content. When I made the decision to do YT I wanted to be different and focus on what I believed matters and do it with integrity, not focusing on views or subscribers. Hopefully we’ll continue to grow and be successful but either way, I’ll still be able to look myself in the mirror. Thanks for watching! -Gary
@paramounttactical I totally agree with your thoughts on YT and those on it. I used to think the same thing a few years ago, but thanks to guys like you and others who actually know what they're talking about, I now come to them for correct information. Thank for your service to our country and to this platform. You are a valuable asset
New to this precision leveling, but would having less air in level tool make a more precise level? Small bubble and finer level lines. The air bubble is same size like in my big level for carpentry.
No. The bubble, or whatever indicator medium is used really isn't a determining factor. I have very precise/accurate levels with large bubbles and then completely inaccurate levels with small bubbles. I just recently released an update to this video with more information that is worth watching. Here's a link: th-cam.com/video/OG8CchRYlDw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=aHpyM4FOcOGOuStt Thanks for watching! -Gary
Thanks I am here to learn and one question I have is how important is it to center the reticle? I will put a scope on and then I think I didn’t center the reticle and this drives me nuts. I will be saving up to buy your cheapest scope maybe can do 400 and I will be putting scope on a heavy hitter a Ruger 375 thanks for your service and the info.
I watched the how to video first a couple days ago and now watched this one. The way I would describe the importance of having the scope and rifle both being level is in relation to the trajectory of the projectile. This is along the same line as the 20 MOA mount example you give but I think simplifies it a bit. First we have to agree that other than very short range we are always going to have trajectory as part of the equation, which is projectile flight path first going up to counter act gravity, and then falling back down into the target. I don't expect that to be an issue but I want to try and focus attention to the reason for rifle and scope being on the same plane. Once you focus on that particular fact, then you can draw an exaggerated example of bullet flight and what happens if they are not on the same plane. A picture is worth a thousand words. Of course this assumes that the barrel is concentric to the bore and other relevant topics but that would be digging deeper into long range requirements. But all get back to the foundation that scope and rifle need to be level. Edit: One more thing I would add as an example is you can sight a rifle in that is canted, but it will only be good for one distance. Once you change the distance, the bullet will progressively get further away from the bull the larger the difference between zero and the new distance. Hope this helps. Semper Fi
The four minute intro made me subscribe. Thank you for being realistic, reasonable and easy to listen to. It nice to hear about your expertise, it also nice to know that just being in the service isn't a catch all for your knowledge.
Thanks Ryan, I appreciate that. I’m glad you found us. Be sure to join us on Wednesdays at 7pm ET for our live Dangerous Liberty Podcast. Wishing you and your a wonderful Thanksgiving. -Gary
I have 2 of them but I use them for tracking tests. I honestly don’t see the value in using them for scope mounting. A gun vise is better and more versatile. But they can definitely work. They just don’t do nothing that you don’t do with a rifle and gun vise.
LMAO, as a Marine "vet" (whom usually takes the brunt most the time) when you said "I'm not a Navy SEAL, so I don't like to talk about myself" I laughed and hit that like button!
I concur from BUD/S 111. NAVSPECHOLLYWOOD needs to shut up, be humble and quiet. Way too much youtubing.
Great video...
As a Marine, how do you tell if someone is a Marine? Wait 5 minutes he'll tell you
In MY opinion, your 20 MOA rail explanation was "perfect". I found it both understandable a accurate (no pun intended). Hopefully, it helped a lot of people out as I think it may be one of the most misunderstood concepts I see in optics mounting.
Found this 6 months later than when you posted it, but timely information for a new build. Most appreciated!
Hi and I want to say that I have a great deal of respect for your Knowledge and Experience. I have recently purchased a brand new wheeler scope leveling tool. My Father a mechanic by trade that could build houses or do pretty much anything that required intelligence and ambition, taught me a very valuable lesson about buying and testing levels (in fact I remember feeling uncomfortable while he was telling the hardware store owner that he only had one level in the store that was actually level and plum. I would have been about 6 yrs old). The way you prove That a level is actually level is to find a surface that is very very close to level and flat that has position repeatability (lines and edges that are perpendicular to each other). Place the level on the surface and pay an extreme amount of attention to the bubbles position left to right and swing the level 180 degrees to the exact same spot and see if the level bubble placement lands in the exact same spot (If the bubble has shifted the level has error in it my friend). I hope that you double check your levels and then I can tell you how to make them work accurately even though they have error.
Thanks for the Brilliant content and information.
Thanks again
Donnie
Dude I thought I knew a lot about mounting scopes ! Your videos have shown me I’m ignorant and need you to come to SD and teach me! I love your videos. Your last video on mounting scopes is exactly how I’ve been mounting them for years. But now after this video I realize I know very little. I’d love you to come to my area and give a class for a few days and mount scopes for long range work. Then let’s shoot them and prove out you concepts. I need more of your knowledge please.
"I don't like to talk about myself".... proceeds to talk about himself lol. Just poking at you. Great content bro.
After listening to the first three to four minutes......this is the first thought I had. LOL The problem with youtube....is folks don't just get to the point. I don't have all day to listen to you all.....just want to learn something and move on. Good video once you got to the point.
@rebel1988yota there is a fine line between "talking about yourself" and establishing your technical experience. Look at many you tubers.....they are not really qualified to give their opinions. This guy is.
@@ExFed2021 I don't doubt his credentials.....all the more reason to just get to the point. Lots of great info on his account, that's why I keep watching.
@@rebel1988yota Lol you know what's even easier then coming to the comments to whine about it, just skip forward past it...🙄
@@nismojukerich2994 Constructive criticism isn't complaining. Fact is...he has great content....no need for the 4 minutes of yapping your lips, just get to the point. Simple. If the Content provider doesn't like my criticism....he can say something or he can improve his content. Really is that simple. If he doesn't want criticism, he shouldn't put video's on youtube. Continue on......
I was considering mounting my Leupold Mk-5 to a slightly canted Sig Cross in order to create a custom fit to the most natural/comfortable cheek weld.... Your education on the MOA rail likely saved me a lot of future frustration....
I watched hours and hours of videos and Brownell just released a video saying the same info in this video. That set me on the right path and now I discovered this video. Planning to mount my scope next week
Slightly canted Sig Cross? Do you mean your natural rifle positioning?
Thanks
Thanks for taking the time to make this,
easy to follow and just logical. the tall target test is verification of your advice and verification of a good setup, plan and simple 😊👍
Gary, I just recently discovered your videos/channel and am favorably impressed - not only with the information you present, but perhaps especially with the quality of your presentation. This is yet another excellent instructional video and is very valuable to those of us intent on “getting it right”. Hooo-ah!
Thanks Marty, that means a lot! I’m glad you found us and appreciate your kind words. Hope to see you in the comments often. Join us on Fridays for our livestreams! -Gary
@@paramounttactical Can only agree here !! Many thanks for your insights!
Excellent and very straight forward! Personally, I love the math involved as this level is a walk in the park. I am really enjoying getting back into being on the range. Being someone that ran an electrical standards lab (defense), I always question my measurements.
The fact that you're aware of your shortcomings is all that I needed to hear . SUBSCRIBED.
Snag a few stabila levels for the next one
I legit was writing a comment on your how to video that my gun would crack a groundhog out to 400 yards no problem but past that im way off and i had no clue what was going on until i watched your how to video for mounting and your long target. I never had a target explained the way u did in that video which opened my eyes. Since i was a kid we always checked to make sure everything was zeroed a inch high at 100 but never once did i see a long target used the way u explained. Im pumped i believe u have changed my game 100%. Every scope ive had put on in the last 30 years is about to get long targeted. But honetly we always used 2nd fp i been using ffp for last couple years on my newer guns and im loving them. With this information it will sure clean up my groundhog percentage past 600. It always took 3 or 4 to get on target if it didnt run by then just assumed it was wind out at distance but now i understand thank u. This just kinda cemented everything from the part 1 and part 2 videos. So glad i humbled myself into watching them. Really appriciate u taking the time to explain all of this to us for free. I bought your scope mounting kit a couple scopes ago but i never watched part 2 til recently. Prob be trying the long target out tmrw if i can find them somewhere if not ill make one but regardless this is happening tmrw. After i set my scope up tonight.
Thank you for this lecture! I never was aware of it. I followed your instructions and made the necessary corrections. I also used a bubble level that fastens to the rail.
Great presentation.
I think that a canted scope poses problems as detailed in the scope erector illustration even with a zero rail/base but only at noticeable distance when substantially elevating.
Bravo on the excellent presentation.
I like your video. You covered setting up a scope well. Straight and level and you have no problems.
i was already familiar with the information but, i really enjoyed the way you came across putting it out there. will be checking out more info from you for sure. thanks
Thanks for all these videos, very informative! I'm a former US Army Sapper myself, so I know CQB well enough. Precision long range shooting? Not so much. I've got alot to learn, and it's great to be able to hear it from a subject matter expert.
Thanks for your service and thanks for watching! 👊🇺🇸-Gary
Essayons
Essayons!
Mounted My Arken EP5 and followed your video. Went to range and at 100 yrds. After zero averaged sub .5 MIN. ON Every grouping. Using Budget build Axis 2 precision. I will always mount my scopes with your method from now on. Ive shot this 6.5 creedmoor to 1120yrds at a 30" gong.
That makes me happy to hear man! 👊🇺🇸
I appreciate you sharing!
-Gary
I've now shot this rifle to 170@paraounttactical
@@paramounttacticalive now sot this rifle too 1760 I did have to solidify my pic rail reset scope like you said before that
Great video, my takeaway, always verify my mounting work and the scope quality by shooting a turret tracking test no matter what mounting method is used. With your mounting method, I might be tempted to attach the ant-cant bubble while the scope is off the rifle sitting square on it’s bottom turret housing on a level surface if it balanced well.
Couldn’t have said it better! Thanks for watching! -Gary
I use wood shims for Micro adjusting everything. This gives you a incredible precise end result. Now if I could only shoot haha. Really love watching your videos.
So I am a Tool and Die maker, Hitting .0001 of an inch on a CNC is much harder to do than you think, there is also the fitup between the male and female screws, on top of the other surfaces that need to be machined, each one of those things has a tolerance and they stack. A bubble level isn't super precise in the world of machining either, they make specialty machinist levels that are far more accurate.
I am not arguing that this isn't the best way to do it, because that is outside my wheelhouse, I don't level scopes professionally, even if this is the best way of doing it though, there will be error.
I don’t disagree with any of that but with multimillion dollar companies that have decent QC processes in place, the surfaces are flat, level and parallel within a tolerance more than adequate to level the scope. And you’re right bubble levels are not that accurate and that is what you use to level. My point is the surfaces are WAY more accurate than the levels. To properly level a scope we need to get within less than 1 degree. The accuracy of the surfaces even with all tolerances and imperfections stacked will not hold us back from achieving that. Thanks for watching and I appreciate your thoughtful input and experience! -Gary
@@paramounttactical yes sir, keep up the great information!
How satisfying it was to finally have someone addressing these Myths! Most people “know” stuff without understanding the why and how behind… Specially the canted scope on the rifle, like Hodnett said “it must be level to the world” but again, understand why and how makes you realize the added variant of a moa rail in the equation.
Just discovered your channel! You got me subscribed and will definitely be looking forward for your content!
Ps. Here the saying is, how do you know if a guy is a sniper… don’t worry he will tell you! 😂
Nice video! Cheers! 🇨🇦
There's a lot to take in & I appreciate you taking the time to explain it all. What I discovered recently is a jig you slide between the rail & bottom of the scope& when fully forward creates a perfectly level scope. It's all about geometry (in my mind anyway😁) Not sure if you've seen or had chance to use one.
This guy has a straight up no BS policy 😂 love it!
You are a wealth of great information. Thank you, Sir.
Great video, very thorough explanations! I understood the basics of what you talked about prior to watching the video, but now I understand it more in depth of the what and why.
Good video I actually thinking about remounting my scope with a rail on my Remington 700 tactical 308 and I was debating whether to go with a zero MOA or a 20 MOA very informative. I’ll try to do my best and go with your advice. Thank you.
@@johnknorr1140 if you do, here’s my updated complete guide to scope mounting. Part II is on the channel as well.
How To Mount A Scope The Right Way - Precision Scope Mounting - Part 1 of 2
th-cam.com/video/OG8CchRYlDw/w-d-xo.html
@paramounttactical you posted this a year ago and you're still responding to your viewers to help them. Between the excellent quality of this video and what I just said you've quickly earned another subscriber sir. I hope all is well on your end in these troubling times, thank you for the great video
Just found your channel and I’m glad I did. I’m just getting in to long distance shooting and your vids are way helpful. Thank you for your service and your info.
I'm glad you made this video because I leveled the rifle with a magwell vice with some wobble. Hence, it appears my cross hairs are very close to being verticle to plumb Bob, but mr Bob shows some error.
Great insightful information.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
Sound, solid advice. Thanks for your time.
Much respect for a great video. Its not often that I come across a video that's truly useful. Ive been shooting and hunting for over 40 years and have seen many changes in the industry over that time. You provided one of the best informative and instructional videos I have every viewed. It shows that you enjoy what you do. Thanks for your service and last like you I dont like trolls who know less than nothing and act like clowns. Just keyboard warriors hiding behind a computer screen where they dont have to answer for their actions.
Very informative and very interesting. What you say makes sense. Would like to talk to you more about this
Just sent my PST to Vortex. Thanks for making this video, I also have a dozen levels and obsess over perfection.
Thanks for the info. I am new to scopes and this definitely is good to know. I did use the turrets to mount my scope and i was very cautious to make sure the scope was level with a level.
Thank you, I would have been lost without this video!
I always appreciate the information you drop on us. Your LPVO mounting video was the one that had me subscribe.
Leveling to the rail. I did not consider that one and took it for granted that my rail will be level to my action. I need to go back and confirm. Thanks!
Thank you for this video. I am in first grade compared to your ability's and just getting into air rifles at age 70 but your information is priceless even for me.
That's awesome to hear! Glad you found us! Make sure and join us on Wednesdays for our live podcast at 7pm ET.
Thanks for watching!
-Gary
Your an excellent teacher. I am brand new to learning about scopes and long distance shooting. Thank you so much. I have one question, what is a turret.
1st off …. Thank You For Your Service Brother
2nd … I am a long range shooter as well and I agree on 100% of everything you discussed in your video. Nice Job!!
New here. I was actually researching new scopes for my crossbow and came about your channel. I watched the one on leveling the gun and mounting the scope to be level to the gun. Being a lifetime engineer this makes total sense. Thanks for sharing your experience in our armed forces and thank you for your service! Keep up the great videos to help us all become better marksmen/markswomen, both on the range, self-defense, and ethical harvesting of our game.
Glad you found us Steve! Welcome to the Paramount family! We look forward to seeing you in the comments often. Make sure to join us live on Fridays! If you ever have any questions don’t hesitate to contact me either on here or via email. Thanks, Gary
Great information, so many people don't know you can place a small piece of a mirror on the front of their scope [this will give a reflection of the reticle] to check the reticle inside the scope, this will tell if the reticle is centered up-down -left-right..
You absolutely can but that only tells you so much. People also tend to adjust their guns to make the reticle plumb. Just bc your reticle is plumb in the mirror, doesn’t mean your optic is plumb to the gun, or the reticle is plumb to the optic. It all matters. How you mount a scope is ultimately irrelevant. What is important is to test and the only way to confirm all the above (or diagnose issues) is to shoot a tall target test. If you don’t confirm on a tall target, you’re just assuming you’re good. Thanks for watching!
-Gary
I've found that using a flat steel ruler is even easier than using the wheeler levels. Just get the scope somewhat snug in the rings so it will only rotate with some force applied to it, then rest one edge of the ruler on your pic rail while lifting the other edge to contact the flat bottom of your scope tube. It's super fast and as long as you use a good quality ruler like a Starrett your scope will be perfectly level.
🤔 pretty smart. I can’t think of a reason that wouldn’t work for mounting in rings. Probably wouldn’t work on most mounts given they don’t typically have flats below turret housing but for rings it’s quite brilliant. Thanks for sharing and watching! I might have to do a video on that and I’ll be sure to give you credit. This channel is meant to be a community and sharing info like this is what makes us all better!
Thanks, Gary
“I’m not a seal, I don’t like to talk about myself” hahahahahha!
I threw that in for you Chuck.
Thanks for watching!
-Gary
Thank You Gary!! Great Info.. Opened my eyes on a lot. I didn’t think a bubble level could be off much. I have always used plumb bob and I’ve never shot a tall target to check anything but I will soon.
Definitely shoot a tall target test. You can even make one at home. Shooting that test is the only real way to know your optic is square and tracking correctly. Thanks for watching! -Gary
Good evening Gary! Discovered your channel yesterday. Awesome videos. I’m currently setting up a PCP air rifle for bench rest shooting. I have a Valdada Crusader-2 FFP scope I am trying to get mounted. Never had an issue mounting a scope until now. Watched this video and your scope mounting one to see if I’m missing something.
So this evening I took off the scope to start over. I have a Tipton best bench gun vise and I’m also using the Wheeler scope leveling kit. Just like in your video, I have the gun level in both axis, before putting on the the barrel level. After double checking multiple times, the gun is perfectly leveled and secure. Before placing the scope in the rings, I made sure the countertop is flat and level, and set the scope down on the counter to check the turret level and the cross hair. Everything is perfect.
Now here is where it gets interesting. Once I place the scope in the rings, and level the scope with the same reference level from the Wheeler set, and then look through the scope, the vertical cross hair is canted and pointed to approximately the 350 degree mark if you were looking at a compass rose. Mind you the level is on the elevation turret and is completely level. Makes zero since to me!! The only way I can get the cross hair squared is to turn the scope which then puts the turret not level and I have to use a laser line on the wall to get the cross hair squared to a leveled gun in both axis.
Any input would greatly be appreciated!!
Keith
The reticle isn’t plumb inside. Happens quite a bit especially in sub $1K optic. You need to get it replaced.
@@paramounttactical But this is the strange part. With the scope setting on the counter, which I verified flat and level, and then placing the level on top of it, the cross hair is completely square and plumb. It only changes when put in the scope rings. I hope it’s not the internals. This Valdada is a $3800 scope!
@@keithrush4168 🤔 that doesn’t make sense. Did you check your level? Put it in one spot the turn it 180 degrees. Does level read the same both ways?
@@paramounttactical I know. I’m completely baffled! Using the Wheeler level, just checked both ways on the counter. I’m using our island counter, which is quartz, so about as flat as you can be. I’ve got the scope base flat on the counter and have my laser level shining on the wall. The cross hair matches perfect.
By the way, THANK YOU, for your service time. I’m an O4 in the Navy and just over 28 years. Almost finished. Can’t wait!!
@@keithrush4168 thank you for your service as well.
So when it’s on the counter which you confirmed level, you confirm the turret is level and confirm reticle is level using your laser? And it’s good?
Then you put in mount, confirm optic is level with with level on turret, and then use laser to check reticle and the reticle is not plumb?
Great video, watched your scope mount video too today, very helpful - thanks from New Zealand.
Thanks for watching! -Gary
I should’ve watched the whole video before commenting because you touched on exactly what I was trying to say, and I have seen over the years
Great video, glad you ok the plum bob at the end, as that is what I use. I make sure my rifle is level and solid, then use the plum bob. But I seldom shoot more than a hundred yards. At 75 that is far enough to have some fun, and can not afford top notch equipment on a pension. Got my first rifle when I was 11 years old, so have been shooting for some time. I always shot open sights, till my eyes got not so good, and now not shooting as good with a scope as I did with open sights, getting a bit frustrating.
I am impressed with your level of competency and knowledge, and communication skill.
Thanks Bill, and thanks for watching!
-Gary
Thank you for the informative video. I thank you for your service and sacrifice. Best to you.
Only knew about tall target test as a way to determine velocity w/o a chrono and verify turret tracking accuracy (e.g., how true the MOA/MIL is). This knowledge of erector being square internally vs thinking environmental conditions causing POI being from where doped had my mind going WHOA! That's it! I'm a Subscriber!
I do overkill scope mounting with Wheelers Pro kit and ARISAKA leveling tool, and only have one 20 MOA rail that will get this new info treatment Thanks.
I dont freakin know ANYTHING lol. Im just getting started. I believe i'll follow your teaching. Thank you. 🙏🏻🇺🇸💪🏻
Great explanation and easy to understand. Wondering if a digital level would be any better.
I think with a good digital level it most likely would be better.
Great information thanks for sharing
There is always someone arguing that you will be wrong.
💯! I don’t mind people thinking I’m wrong as long as I’ve done all I can do to make the case. While it can be frustrating when people say you’re wrong or disagree with you I try to look at it as my fault for not making my case well enough. After a video like this that illustrates why I believe what I do or use the methodology that I use, if you still disagree, well… you do you. 😂
Thanks for watching!
-Gary
Awesome vid! New to your channel and precision shooting and you have been my guide! Question though, won’t canting the rifle with even a 0 moa rail cause wind age/elevation dialing issues since you will at some point have to dial for elevation and holding the rifle sideways will no longer put the scope directly over the center of the barrel and your cross point of scope and bullet trajectory will crossed horizontally and vertically? For example if you hold your rifle 45 deg, in order for the scope to cross the bullets path you will have to dial to the right and down and the further you look in the scope the further to the right the scopes trajectory is from the bullets path so you have to dial left and down to adjust for further distances?
So sorry for the poorly worded explanation, this is something I have been thinking about for a while and wanted to pick your brain in case I am way off
Thanks!!
Yes, chanting the rifle with 0 MOA once the optic is attached will cause variation. If you install the optic slightly canted and level the optic, causing the rifle to be canted with optic level, will cause little to no impact variation.
The optic being level is what matters the most. Optimally the optic and the rifle are on the same plane.
Great videos , I follow your method after using old school ways. Keep up the good work
👍
Thanks for watching!
-Gary
Lots of great info, but getting a bit hung up on the point about canted rifle not mattering if you are using a 0moa rail. Wouldn't there still be some horizontal error at range if the bullet crosses your 100 yard zero mark at a slight left to right or right to left angle?
Yes, I think he is completely incorrect on this one.
Excellent video. I experienced the same problem but with a red dot mounted on the right side of a scope. The shooter next to me couldn’t manage to zero his red dot for elevation or windage. Since it was a dot there was no way to see if he was holding parallel on target since the red dot was side mounted at around 45 degrees. Every time he changed windage his height also changed. I noticed him becoming extremely annoyed. So I explained it in similar fashion.
Crystal clear. Excellent illustration. Suggestion for content: A cost effective DIY accurate DMR setup AR10 build that can double for a hunting rifle. You assemble it and shoot it 800+ yards.
Thanks for your kind words. It’s appreciated. That is a great suggestion. I’m putting that on my video to do list! Thanks, Gary
@@paramounttactical reviewing your info as tune up to mount a Arken SH4 gen2 on AR10 with 20 moa mount. Very on point to get it right the first time. Per your suggestions gotta purchase some more mounting tools. Nothing is better than using the right tools for the job.
@@backwardog1 we try to make things easy. Here’s all my recommendations in one kit. paramounttactical.com/product/scope-mounting-bundle/
That was really well explained. I understood everything. Thanks
Great information. Good to know I have been doing it right.
Hey Gary, I know you have a ton of comments on this video and I just have 1 question! You said at 16:45 that it's important to ensure that out reticle is squared to the optic. How do we check that? I know how to make sure the scope is level to the rail but how do we know if the reticle is square inside the optic? Thanks for your time!
That is why we don't level an optic off the reticle. Doing so would hide that flaw. By making sure the optic is mechanically leveled to the rail when we do a tall target test or just look through the optic while ensuring it's level using an anticant device, if we look at a plumb line and the reticle is off or we shoot a tall target test and the reticle won't line up when we level the gun, voila! We know the reticle is not plumb inside the optic. I cover that and how to do a tall target test in my Scope Mounting Guide video I just released a couple months ago. Hope that helps!
-Gary
@@paramounttactical perfectly explained, I understand it now. So we would know the reticle is off according to the plumb line or tall target test line(which must be perfectly vertical anyways). I appreciate the reply!
Solid info, thanks. What about height over bore? Does mounting scope higher or lower matter?
The higher a scope is mounted the less elevation adjustment is available. More critical for long range work (e.g., 600 yds +). Also high mounting can interfere with a good consistent cheek weld. Removable cheek risers will help obtain a good cheek weld and you don't have to drill through the buttstock.
Thanks Gary love your passion for this sport. The more knowledge makes a better community and a better competitor you become. Cheers Andy 🇦🇺
Thanks man! And thanks for watching!
👊🍻🇺🇸
-Gary
I found your scope mounting video very useful. Thank you. I think I have a tip that can improve and make your method even more precise and simple. Let me know what you think. In knife sharpening, I use a tool called an angle cube. It measures angles in 1/100th of a degree and isn't expensive either.
1. You lock in the rifle tight... the rifle doesn't even have to be perfectly level. You lay the angle cube on the rail then push the zero button on the angle cube to zero out the angle it is at. The angle will now read 0.00
2. (Optional) To make sure rifle doesn't move during score ring tightening you could still use the wheeler barrel level and make sure the angle cube reads 0.00 when it sits on it.
3. Put angle cube on turret and rotate scope so it reads 0.00 snd tighten rings to torque spec. Done!
1/100 of a degree accurate!
iGaging AngleCube Digital Level + Bevel Gauge 2 in 1 a.co/d/iWMCXxS
You lost me when you called a Rifle a Gun but got me back when I heard Erector lol and great Intel Gary and some Guys don’t realize how important the little things are when you step out past 300 yards plus, I enjoy hitting my Whistle Pigs in another Zip Code but my Old DAV Eyes aren’t what they used to be so EVERY little Tip is Paramount in being successful and enjoying your Day out Shooting. Stay safe my Friend Semper Fidelis and I’ve never seen such magnificent Art Work from a Green Beret Lol I Love it
Of course I reeled back in Marine by using erect in a sentence. 😂 You can leave the boat, but the boat never leaves you. 🤣
Thanks for your service and thanks watching brother!
👊🇺🇸
-Gary
@@paramounttactical we are who we are my Brother stay safe.
I love this guy!!
Oh man!
Finally! Someone that's f'n real about his sheott!!
Thank you!
I have to admit I was critical of your video. Turns out I have a scope and the turret is not level. It has a screw right in the center of the turret cap. I use levels and the plumb method combined as I am a little ocd about this topic. Awesome job my friend and awesome video.
Good stuff. Makes total sense. Thanks man!
Never heard of the scope internals like you explained SF - FANTASTIC💥‼️‼️‼️💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯🇺🇸
The Test which you did with the Scores in the first Part of your Video, did you Test it with the ZCO too? Can i use the Turret too in the ZCO? Thank you .
Thank you for your service brother I love you brother thank you bro.
I like your explanation, very nicely done
I love your videos. I bought my first scope based partly on a review you did comparing the Atacr 5-25x56mm to the Zero Compromise scope. I was wondering how the heck am I going to mount this sucker when I saw your scope mounting video. It was exactly what I needed.
I also watched your scope mounting myth busters video. It was great. My wife says your arms are too big. I have two children. The reality is if I looked like you, I would have 15.
😂 Glad you found us! Welcome to the Paramount Family!
Thank you for these videos and most of all thank you for your service :-)
Excellent job. Really appreciate all your videos. Keep up the great work.
Thanks and thanks for watching!
I have recently been a proponent of the plumb bob method, and I still think it's valuable to do, but you opened my eyes to also make sure the turret is level at the same time. I never thought about the reticle possibly being canted within the scope. I typically use my thickest feeler gauge canted to square the bottom of the scope to the rail. A parallel bar may be better, how do you feel about that method, seems simpler, faster, more reliable and according to your view of modern machined surfaces, perfectly viable.
I actually like that method. I think it’s solid and better than the Ariska or Spuhr wedge. That would work great with rings but with most mounts you don’t have a flat surface under the turret housing. As for plumb bob, I think it’s great to use to check your reticle after you’ve leveled the scope but ultimately method or HOW you level doesn’t matter. They all can work and all have room for mistakes both human and mechanical. What really matters is verification which no one does. Everyone’s living on faith. If you don’t shoot a tall target test then you don’t really know if your scope is mounted correctly, if your reticle is plumb inside the optic, or if it’s tracking correctly.
Thanks for watching and I enjoy having these discussions. Make sure to join us live on Wednesdays for our Dangerous Liberty Podcast.
-Gary
@@paramounttactical ya you are right, it would only work with a rail.
That gives me a great idea. At least for rail mounted scopes. Use a precision adjustable parallel between the scope bottom and rail. Should be almost guaranteed to be parallel or level scope to rail correct?
I use the Arisaka wedge on rails but then I had a rifle I wanted to use the two piece ring bases on. So I got out a rail I wasn’t using, attached a ring to it, placed the scope in the ring , leveled it and very GENTLY snugged two of the screws. Just enough to keep the scope from rotating. Then removed it from the rail and attached it to the front base after placing the rear ring onto the rear base. Torqued everything down and all was well.
Never an issue
Great video! I am in the process of mounting a scope on my cz457. Decided to wait and get some better levels. Thanks for information on the best way to do this. Where is the best place to get the tall target and tracking test?
Thanks for watching! Here you go. Link to the ones I use (not affiliated). www.boxtobenchprecision.com/
@@paramounttactical Thanks! Do you have any videos showing the process when using one of these tracking targets?
Great video! I have a 6.5 x 20 x 50 leupold European scope with a canted reticle that has always caused issues...you convinced me to pull it off my ruger 300 prc. What's your best choice for long range plinking?
Just depends on your budget. I personally like Nightforce. You can’t go wrong with the ATACRs and with a 300 PRC I’d suggest the 7-35 but if that’s not in the budget the NX8s are great too. We are a Nightforce dealer so if you are looking for a NF email us services@paramounttactical.com.
There’s lots of other good options too though. Vortex, Leupold, or if you want a budget optic check out my review on the Arken EP5. Pretty good optic under $500.
Thanks for watching!
-Gary
@@paramounttactical email on the way.
Thanks for your service Sir!
With knowledge comes a responsibility to share that knowledge. Addressing shortcomings becomes important because we learn from our mistakes while learning little from our success. Liked & subbed.
I understand getting the barrel level left to right. But what about leveling fore and aft? If I have rails on the rifle with a built in MOA, do I level the rifle based on that, or do I level off of some other place (receiver?) and then proceed to mount the scope from there? If this was covered, I apologize for missing it.
Complete Guide To Precision Scope Mounting - Part 1 of 2
th-cam.com/video/OG8CchRYlDw/w-d-xo.html
Nice information. Not an easy subject to explain. When you said elevation becomes windage and windage becomes elevation I got slightly confused until you clarified it a few moments later. Maybe saying windage ends up becomes windage and elevation in this situation. Overall, you explained it wonderfully
I’m your previous video you recommended the Wheeler scope leveling kit. How did that stack up to your machinist level? Was it exact or off just a little? I have been a skeptic of using scope caps but you may have made a believer out of me.
You can check to see if your scope cap is parallel to the bottom of your turret housing by putting the turret housing bottom on a surface you’ve confirmed to be level then placing your level on the turret housing. If it’s not level you can turn your turret until the level is indicating level. It is very rare but it does happen that turret cap isn’t parallel/level with the bottom.
Regarding the wheeler level compared to my machinist level it’s a moot point because the wheeler level has set screws that allow you to adjust. 90% come extremely level and accurate but I have seen one out of spec. You simply check it by ensuring it reads levels then turn it 180 and ensure it reads the same on the other side. If it doesn’t, adjust until is does. Hopefully that makes sense.
Thanks for watching and great question!
-Gary
Quickest and easiest why to mount any scope is to know the distance between the flat of the bottom of the scope and the top of the rail and use a gage block stack up of that number between the bottom of the scope and top of the rail and tighten the rings. Your scope will be square to the rail and won’t can’t as you took up the space with the gage blocks. Remove the blocks and you are done
That’s fine but doesn’t address mounting using 1 piece mounts. I’ve also seen many optics mounted using that method out of plumb. Fact is all methods have plenty of room for error. Unless you test/verify by shooting a tall you’re operating on hope and nothing more.
Thanks for watching.
-Gary
@@paramounttactical sorry I watched two of your videos and meant to post to the scope mounting video, I mean no disrespect and you are right there’s error in everything. I just like using the bottom of the scope as it’s 98% flat. The problem with bubble leveling is there is 1/16” drop of error in the bubble level if there is any space between the line and bubble. Even my precision level has a small space.
@@geremypelleran8487 lol no disrespect perceived. Just discussing. I try to reply to as many comments as possible so my replies are usually short and blunt. It’s an efficiency thing not being rude or meaning to come across sounding irritated. Thanks for watching and I always enjoy discussions nerding out on technical details.
Thanks, Gary
Thank you for your service and the great info you have shared,,,,
Thanks for watching!
-Gary
Ive also used multiple methods and tools, all capable in the right hands. However ive adopted using the wedge tools that make the rail and turret housing parallel. There are combinations of rails and Scopes that don't lend themselves to this method but generally it works for most set ups, I don't know of any reason why this doesn't work properly so if you have any input I'd appreciate it.
What do you think about the scalarworks self leveling scope mount?
Same as Spuhr's. They are decent.
Haven’t used them. If it’s like Spuhr in that it comes with a wedge, I just personally don’t like the wedges.
Wow! Great stuff!!
We're you trained with the MOA system or MRAD? or both?
Just wondering if you might have a preference for either system,,,
I'm not a long range guy by any means but like to have a complete understanding of my system.
I've recently become a subscriber and am really looking forward to your great work and the insight you share.
You know the deal,,,the learning process never stops,,,,
Thank you for the help and please keep up the great work!
😎👍
Thanks Bill. I know both Mil and MOA and was trained on both. I prefer and recommend MIL. I have some virtual optic classes that I’ve given that you can find if you search the channel. Definitely worth watching and I go into depth about Mil and MOA and discuss why I recommend Mil over MOA.
Glad you found us. Welcome to the Paramount Family!
-Gary
@Paramount Tactical Great! Oh and by the way as I forgot to mention it earlier,,,,
THANK YOU for your service!
Looking forward to becoming familiar with MIL dot characteristics.
😎👍
@@billturner1960 thank you sir!
Fantastic content! While most people are out there just offering opinions, Gary's out here offering opinions backed by experience and backing it with solid, logical, testable, repeatable explanations. To go beyond that 80% most people can get to, it all comes down to the details - and Gary plainly identifies and explains why those details are so important. Doesn't matter if you're shooting competitively, hunting, or just enjoying some alone time on a range while honing your proficiency.
Thank you. I really appreciate your kind words.
I avoided the entire TH-cam world for a long time because I didn’t want to be associated with the silliness that makes up 90% of the channels with firearm content. When I made the decision to do YT I wanted to be different and focus on what I believed matters and do it with integrity, not focusing on views or subscribers.
Hopefully we’ll continue to grow and be successful but either way, I’ll still be able to look myself in the mirror. Thanks for watching! -Gary
@paramounttactical I totally agree with your thoughts on YT and those on it. I used to think the same thing a few years ago, but thanks to guys like you and others who actually know what they're talking about, I now come to them for correct information. Thank for your service to our country and to this platform. You are a valuable asset
Great content, I only wish you could be in Aus. I would support your business 100%. Just keep up the great work. Cheers, mate.
Thanks for the support brother! If you’re ever over here in the DC area hit us up and come out and shoot! -Gary
Another great video! Keep up the excellent work!!
Thanks! 👊🇺🇸 -Gary
Spoken like a true "Quiet Professional"... really good attitude brother...De Oppresso Liber
Thanks brother! 👊🇺🇸 DOL - Gary
New to this precision leveling, but would having less air in level tool make a more precise level? Small bubble and finer level lines. The air bubble is same size like in my big level for carpentry.
No. The bubble, or whatever indicator medium is used really isn't a determining factor. I have very precise/accurate levels with large bubbles and then completely inaccurate levels with small bubbles. I just recently released an update to this video with more information that is worth watching. Here's a link: th-cam.com/video/OG8CchRYlDw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=aHpyM4FOcOGOuStt
Thanks for watching!
-Gary
Thanks I am here to learn and one question I have is how important is it to center the reticle? I will put a scope on and then I think I didn’t center the reticle and this drives me nuts. I will be saving up to buy your cheapest scope maybe can do 400 and I will be putting scope on a heavy hitter a Ruger 375 thanks for your service and the info.
What do you mean by “center the reticle”?
I watched the how to video first a couple days ago and now watched this one. The way I would describe the importance of having the scope and rifle both being level is in relation to the trajectory of the projectile. This is along the same line as the 20 MOA mount example you give but I think simplifies it a bit. First we have to agree that other than very short range we are always going to have trajectory as part of the equation, which is projectile flight path first going up to counter act gravity, and then falling back down into the target. I don't expect that to be an issue but I want to try and focus attention to the reason for rifle and scope being on the same plane. Once you focus on that particular fact, then you can draw an exaggerated example of bullet flight and what happens if they are not on the same plane. A picture is worth a thousand words. Of course this assumes that the barrel is concentric to the bore and other relevant topics but that would be digging deeper into long range requirements. But all get back to the foundation that scope and rifle need to be level. Edit: One more thing I would add as an example is you can sight a rifle in that is canted, but it will only be good for one distance. Once you change the distance, the bullet will progressively get further away from the bull the larger the difference between zero and the new distance. Hope this helps. Semper Fi
The four minute intro made me subscribe. Thank you for being realistic, reasonable and easy to listen to. It nice to hear about your expertise, it also nice to know that just being in the service isn't a catch all for your knowledge.
Thanks Ryan, I appreciate that. I’m glad you found us. Be sure to join us on Wednesdays at 7pm ET for our live Dangerous Liberty Podcast.
Wishing you and your a wonderful Thanksgiving. -Gary
What are your thoughts on using the SAC final scope level for setup and transfer to the host rifle?
I have 2 of them but I use them for tracking tests. I honestly don’t see the value in using them for scope mounting. A gun vise is better and more versatile. But they can definitely work. They just don’t do nothing that you don’t do with a rifle and gun vise.
Absolutely love this guy I am now subscribed going to be ordering some parts from you awesome content and thank you for your service
Thanks for watching man! I appreciate the support! 👊🇺🇸-Gary