I had the same problem.....and even found the same video in Italian! Thanks for doing the work....saved me a bunch of time and frustration! (2021 Dragster 800RR)
I used the first method a few times already, since the bike keeps having issues with batteries. I bought a booster/starter that i use to jump start the bike when it gives voltages issues. It doesn't cause issues with the circuit, never had to replace a fuse or anything. It's also a nice way to maintain battery health throughout periods of inactivity by using a battery charger or by unplagging the switch/contactor in between the fuses.
can’t see it being totally different set up on the bike from UK to USA. but there is a charger connection point under the seat. FYI the supplied charger plugs straight on to it. no need to take parts off the bike. also have the same bike.
Thanks for this video. Just had my drag800Rr battery replaced at shop and it wasn’t cheap….this same process was explained to me by my Mech. You should disconnect the plug next to the two fuses if you’re not riding for 2 weeks or longer - the trickle charger should be used. It essentially disconnects the ECU from the battery which will save your battery b/c it kills batteries when not in use. MV dragster issue. AGM battery is $240++ then time to replace.
Yup, I’ve got a CTek charger (good kit) so I just bought the 2 pin waterproof connector and fitted it onto a CTek lead. You can find the trickle charging lead under the seat - There are two connectors with rubber covers over them. One is for diagnostics and the other is the trickle charger. Auto electrical suppliers will sell you the mating connector (I used Vehicle Wiring Products in the UK). The connector is a bit fiddly but straightforward to fit
Nice done video with great audio and lighting to see well. I own a Super Duke And MV AGusta Dragster 800rr Pirelli edition. I love V2’s and triples. I replace all my batteries from old school toxic lead acid batteries to lithium on day 1. Less worries of trickle charger. Of course, the battery under the tank on the MV. Not necessarily hard replacement but takes a little longer. Love the light weight lithium, no corrosion, no explosive hydrogen gas, higher CCA, full power cranks to 5% battery Vs need of at least 70% charge lead acid to crank engine, longer warranty with lithium, lasts 3-5x’s longer than lead acid, charges in minutes vs hours, lithium only loses 1% charge/MONTH vs 1%/Day charge with lead battery. Look forward to more videos. I did install titanium Silmoto snake muffler. Beautiful art to go with moving art. The titanium makes a sweeter sound vs stainless as metal is thinner/lighter. Rings like a bell tone. I did replace halogen turn signal with new rage. Replaced halogen headlights bulbs with 5000 k colored Leds. Bike always feels special
@scottcampbell6995 hey man, pic's or it didn't happen. :) Sounds like a good looking bike, love those Pirelli editions, super sharp. Thanks for the feedback my friend! Any issues with fuel out the over flow or tank swell?
HI from Germany, thankxx a lot for your time, to make this video. Git the same problem and found a solution within your post. RR800SC Nr141 Herzliche Grüße Kirby
Hey man nice work but I have purchased the 2021 brutale SCS 75th anniversary edition and there isn’t anything in the owners manual about getting the battery out. Now either I’m dumb or I am clearly missing the key entry half way down the bike. You don’t show that in this video, I have a 2 piece seat I’m at a loss because I feel lost because I love the bike. Any help would be appreciated.
@Alpharius RR, the brutale, although the same power plant, has slightly different faring make up. That said, i believe the batter is located under the tank similar to dragster. You have to loosen the tank and lift it to access the battery. A real pain in the ..... More info and a video to come!
Hey @russkle, bit of a delay here, in regard to charging I definitely recommend using the under seat connector which you can keep maintained via a battery tender. However, I would NOT recommend charging via the method describe here to get power for jump starting.
I had the same issue with my 20 R 1250 R, not the same bike at all but I guess the thing is with these new electronics heavy bikes is they require a lot of volts to crank (14v for my bike) and the shop manager recommended charging the battery with a tender every night, I mean I love my bike so I would read it bedtime stories if I had to, but the takeaway here is that these new bikes are kind of like phones with all this battery draining electronics kit. Even idling the bike in traffic will leave you with less volts than what you started with (fully charged) so just a heads up.
Swap it out for a noco lithium and everything will be fixed. You need a different charger tho, just get the noco genius and you should be good. The electrical draw on the dragster when its off is ridiculous. As soon as i switched to a noco i could leave it without the tender like a regular honda :p
Hey Gage, do you have a pipe, mid pipe or anything that required an ECU flash? Any idea what caused the QS to go out? That's concerning and I see some traffic on the forums about it as well. Might be a good one to do some content on.
Nope, everything is stock. Cordona makes a really reliable QS, I’m wanting to make the swap but after looking at the wiring placements I think the task requires tools and expertise I don’t have lol. A service manual would make it easier but it looks like changing the QS involves taking off the tank and some of the covers around the frame
Hey my friend. LEDs typically need a resistor or they will burn out or flash at a rapid rate. I will look up and reply with li k to appropriate sized resistor. What lights do you have?
So you installed LED turn signals and your experiencing "hyper flashing", where the indicators flash much faster than normal? The linked resistors look like an easier way to install to your existing wires. I bought the variety that doesn't have the crimps provided, so I had to solder the resistors inline. Not a huge deal, but still more work than if the crimps already exist. I measured the wattage output with a multimeter, which is probably your best bet. The ohms to wattage relationship should be listed with the resistor. In this case: "Select the 9.8 Ohm resistor when going from a 21 watt turn signal to an LED turn signal. Select the 21.5 Ohm resistor when going from a 10 watt incandescent turn signal to an LED turn signal." Here is a great resource found here…. www.motorcycleforum.com/threads/what-load-resistor-do-i-buy.228658/
I had the same problem.....and even found the same video in Italian! Thanks for doing the work....saved me a bunch of time and frustration! (2021 Dragster 800RR)
Hello are u happy with ur dragsrer?
I used the first method a few times already, since the bike keeps having issues with batteries. I bought a booster/starter that i use to jump start the bike when it gives voltages issues. It doesn't cause issues with the circuit, never had to replace a fuse or anything. It's also a nice way to maintain battery health throughout periods of inactivity by using a battery charger or by unplagging the switch/contactor in between the fuses.
can’t see it being totally different set up on the bike from UK to USA. but there is a charger connection point under the seat. FYI the supplied charger plugs straight on to it. no need to take parts off the bike. also have the same bike.
Thanks to this video i used a portable jump starter and was able to start the bike connecting to those 2 locations for positive and earth. No issues!
Thank you. I have the manual, but seeing how it is done is 100% better.
Good video mate. A bit long. So happy you are making videos on my bike. Please, it's Grommet, not Gromlet.
Haha great feedback. Got me on the grommet. Good catch!
Glad I could help my friend. Let me know if you have other issues. Content is helpful.
LoL! touche on the "gromlet"!
Thanks for this video. Just had my drag800Rr battery replaced at shop and it wasn’t cheap….this same process was explained to me by my Mech. You should disconnect the plug next to the two fuses if you’re not riding for 2 weeks or longer - the trickle charger should be used. It essentially disconnects the ECU from the battery which will save your battery b/c it kills batteries when not in use. MV dragster issue. AGM battery is $240++ then time to replace.
It's your starter relay switch so those 2 cables are both positive.
Yup, I’ve got a CTek charger (good kit) so I just bought the 2 pin waterproof connector and fitted it onto a CTek lead. You can find the trickle charging lead under the seat - There are two connectors with rubber covers over them. One is for diagnostics and the other is the trickle charger. Auto electrical suppliers will sell you the mating connector (I used Vehicle Wiring Products in the UK). The connector is a bit fiddly but straightforward to fit
Very well done. Thanks a lot. Love my bike: 2022 Brutale 800 RR
Nice done video with great audio and lighting to see well. I own a Super Duke And MV AGusta Dragster 800rr Pirelli edition. I love V2’s and triples. I replace all my batteries from old school toxic lead acid batteries to lithium on day 1. Less worries of trickle charger. Of course, the battery under the tank on the MV. Not necessarily hard replacement but takes a little longer. Love the light weight lithium, no corrosion, no explosive hydrogen gas, higher CCA, full power cranks to 5% battery Vs need of at least 70% charge lead acid to crank engine, longer warranty with lithium, lasts 3-5x’s longer than lead acid, charges in minutes vs hours, lithium only loses 1% charge/MONTH vs 1%/Day charge with lead battery. Look forward to more videos. I did install titanium Silmoto snake muffler. Beautiful art to go with moving art. The titanium makes a sweeter sound vs stainless as metal is thinner/lighter. Rings like a bell tone. I did replace halogen turn signal with new rage. Replaced halogen headlights bulbs with 5000 k colored Leds. Bike always feels special
@scottcampbell6995 hey man, pic's or it didn't happen. :) Sounds like a good looking bike, love those Pirelli editions, super sharp. Thanks for the feedback my friend! Any issues with fuel out the over flow or tank swell?
Great vid
HI from Germany,
thankxx a lot for your time, to make this video. Git the same problem and found a solution within your post. RR800SC Nr141
Herzliche Grüße
Kirby
Hi, thanks for that. Could you please post the link to the original video in Italian?
th-cam.com/video/-cztArwMfFc/w-d-xo.html
Hey man nice work but I have purchased the 2021 brutale SCS 75th anniversary edition and there isn’t anything in the owners manual about getting the battery out. Now either I’m dumb or I am clearly missing the key entry half way down the bike. You don’t show that in this video, I have a 2 piece seat I’m at a loss because I feel lost because I love the bike. Any help would be appreciated.
@Alpharius RR, the brutale, although the same power plant, has slightly different faring make up. That said, i believe the batter is located under the tank similar to dragster. You have to loosen the tank and lift it to access the battery. A real pain in the ..... More info and a video to come!
Very handy to know 👍🏼
Can I charge a 2014 brutale dragster the same way ?
Hey @russkle, bit of a delay here, in regard to charging I definitely recommend using the under seat connector which you can keep maintained via a battery tender. However, I would NOT recommend charging via the method describe here to get power for jump starting.
@@mvagustalifestyle7023 thank you for the advise 👍
Great vid! Didn't know about the front right option. What year is your Dragster?
Thanks Alessio! It's a 2020.
Same bike, same problems! This seriously just happened to me!
I had the same issue with my 20 R 1250 R, not the same bike at all but I guess the thing is with these new electronics heavy bikes is they require a lot of volts to crank (14v for my bike) and the shop manager recommended charging the battery with a tender every night, I mean I love my bike so I would read it bedtime stories if I had to, but the takeaway here is that these new bikes are kind of like phones with all this battery draining electronics kit. Even idling the bike in traffic will leave you with less volts than what you started with (fully charged) so just a heads up.
Phenom feedback Joe. I especially notice with connecting external devices like the phone charger on the Quad lock!
Swap it out for a noco lithium and everything will be fixed. You need a different charger tho, just get the noco genius and you should be good. The electrical draw on the dragster when its off is ridiculous. As soon as i switched to a noco i could leave it without the tender like a regular honda :p
link?
Thanks again.
Hold your breathe on the QS. Mine went out at 1.8k miles. No dealer will touch it besides Eurocycle
Hey Gage, do you have a pipe, mid pipe or anything that required an ECU flash? Any idea what caused the QS to go out? That's concerning and I see some traffic on the forums about it as well. Might be a good one to do some content on.
Nope, everything is stock. Cordona makes a really reliable QS, I’m wanting to make the swap but after looking at the wiring placements I think the task requires tools and expertise I don’t have lol. A service manual would make it easier but it looks like changing the QS involves taking off the tank and some of the covers around the frame
My orange rpm warning light stays on too now
G'day mate. I have a question. How can the hyperflash be cured after installing LED indicators?
Hey my friend. LEDs typically need a resistor or they will burn out or flash at a rapid rate. I will look up and reply with li k to appropriate sized resistor. What lights do you have?
So you installed LED turn signals and your experiencing "hyper flashing", where the indicators flash much faster than normal? The linked resistors look like an easier way to install to your existing wires. I bought the variety that doesn't have the crimps provided, so I had to solder the resistors inline. Not a huge deal, but still more work than if the crimps already exist. I measured the wattage output with a multimeter, which is probably your best bet. The ohms to wattage relationship should be listed with the resistor. In this case:
"Select the 9.8 Ohm resistor when going from a 21 watt turn signal to an LED turn signal.
Select the 21.5 Ohm resistor when going from a 10 watt incandescent turn signal to an LED turn signal." Here is a great resource found here…. www.motorcycleforum.com/threads/what-load-resistor-do-i-buy.228658/