As close to perfect instructional video as you can get. No flashy transitions, no screaming/yelling, no jump-cuts, and as you stated, no distracting music. I have always liked RJ's videos for these reasons....and of course, I often learn from them.
Thank you so much for this! I was about ready to throw my Trek dual sport off a cliff after bringing it to a shop twice this year for the creaking and clicking. A couple hours , about $30 in tools and a $15 part ..... I fixed it myself and I am back to loving my bike! I appreciate you , RJ!
ALWAYS appreciate clarity and demystifying bike maintenance. I just bought a new crankset and was a little concerned about the bottom bracket. I feel MUCH better now.
Great video! I have never messed with one of theses before so i wanted some visual instructions first before i attempted this on my own. Honestly this is one of the better ones i have seen. Definitely subscribed!
My old Trek 370 started creaking recently, came back to watch this vid before replacing the sealed bottom bracket cartridge...thanks again RJ, I should be good to go for another thousand miles on that old trusty bike now :)
I finally managed to remove my bottom bracket which I installed myself. It wouldn't budge at all using spanners and extensions. The core problem was holding the bb removal tool in place while you turn the spanner. The side that jammed was as in 2:16, ie the second side. After months of delay and thinking what I should do, I used two bb removal tools and an F-clamp with some lax on the other side (the other side was fitted in 90% in). This was just in case this side also turned when you unscrew the other side. There was no problem with flying bb tools now as the whole setup seemed secure. I used my foot and body weight on the spanner which I covered with some old clothing to prevent slipping. But for suspense the thing just wouldn't move. I thought perhaps I had turned the wrong direction but I put my faith in the instructions here and kept on trying. I was in disbelief when I felt the bb tool actually moved and had to check the changed position of the spanner to confirm my luck. Key: 1 Don't over tighten the bottom bracket a slight nudge after the caps stop moving in at the end of the thread is sufficient. If you ride a lot it pays to change or clean the bottom brackets on a regular basis. 2 Don't scrooge on the grease. The more the merrier. This time I greased the entire tunnel so water doesn't stick to the metal surfaces; and both the male and female threads.)
I regularly leave positivecomments on RJ the bike guy. He is easy to follow and I rarely go wrong when i do follow him. The key is the more you do the easier it is
I've used that kind of anti-seize maintaining factory machines for decades. Nothing ever came loose from it until I wanted to take it apart. It saves so much trouble!
Once again ..saved me time and service call...Getting sqweeks from my bottom bracket from an old Giant mt bike...I changed the perals which helped alot but stilla faint sqweek...but was wondering how to change the bearings...now I know...thx..Pastor Chuck
Very useful, many thanks: I've been looking about for some kind of instructions and this was the clearest and most concise I've found. Right, I'm off to fit my BB on my bike... ETA: Subscribed first...
Just signed in to thank you in kind for sharing this knowledge. My bike started squeaking from the bb and I needed to service it. I love riding and when my bike goes down and I can't ride, it is a bummer. Thanx again from the sunny and mild central coast of California.
I have had so much trouble with these in the past.Had to put a bolt through the tool and hold it in place on the bracket.Then put that in the vice and turn the whole frame .These can be almost seized in solid.Extremely tight after sea water/perspiration and steel against aluminum.EXTREMELY hard sometimes.Gotta make sure you turn the tool or frame the right way!!
hard job to do the bottom bracket removable not easy first time. the park tool 22 bottom bracket slipping out and is 3/8 wrench is small tool with no power leverage. the Pedro bottom tool 1/2 wrench is big with long bar you are strong man
Thanks, I got a Trek Earl last year and the bottom bracket is noisy when I peddle. I'm thinking of hobbying bikes so the first project will be looking at the Earl's bottom bracket. Thanks for the how to!
M was extremely tight too. So tight that I literally thought it was stuck in there forever. However, I did eventually get it out which was great. I first soaked it in WD40 (pour/spray copiously down the seat tube so that it pools at the bottom, and soak the outside of the BB shell around the threads in WD40 also). Then pour a full kettle full of boiling water over the BB shell (frame upside down). Pour it over slowly so that the boiling water has time to warm up the metal frame. The water shouldn't damage the paint job at all, but maybe mask off sensitive areas such as brakes.Then as immediately as possible fit a large, strong piece of metal pipe (~1m long) over a large adjustable spanner connected tightly to the BB tool. Lever down on the end of the pipe for maximum torque. It should finally begin to unscrew now. Worked for me where all other methods failed. Hope it works anyone else too.
+Philo201269 Yeah that would be a slight worry. If I were you I would brace the removal tool tightly against the BB shell, strap it even? And also put some blocks under the tool so the force from the lever isn't getting to bend it down (as opposed to just purely rotational). Good luck! The hot water worked really well for me, so make sure you pour lots over it.
Better to use penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench, etc., superior to WD40. Even better many claim a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid is tops. That and several applications over time.
I'm glad you only applied a "little" anti seize to them threads, Lordy-Lordy. Besides the pun, thanks for this vid. Now i can finish practicing on the wifey's bike.
Way cool... I now have the bottom bracket removed and ready get a new one installed. Thanks for the Video that actually makes sense and is easy to follow. :)
While you have that BB out... i would take a brush and clean up the inside of the BB hole and put a layer of water proof-anti-seize grease, then put the BB back thru and finish up.. I see rust inside and cleaning that up and putting a layer of protection will help avoid future problems.
Very helpful video Bike Guy.. My first rebuilt ever.. The worst case scenareo for me..nothing would remove the cranks except for an angle grinder! replace chainset and BB anyway.. running perfect... After a thief stole my new MTB i decided to rebuild my old one and learnt heeps by doing it... Turn bad into good! and buy some serious D LOCKS too
Full Moon Party Video Sorry your bike stolen. I m surprised about the cranks. I have never had that much trouble getting them off with a puller tool except for damaged threads.
Another method is to remove the crank retaining nuts/bolts and ride a couple miles. This will often loosen the arms, but can potentially damage the surfaces inside the arms where they mate with the spindle.
Just finished removing (and then disassembling and greasing) the Shimano sealed cartridge unit in an old Schwinn Mt. bike, following this excellent tutorial. Thanks much!!!
Thank you. All clear. I have aluminum frame and old one completely stuck. Doesn't help even two feet pry bar with half drive. It's good idea to use torch or it's danger for aluminum ? (no worry about paint, frame will be repainted after overall completed ) ?
I, a bike newbie, have a few questions about the bottom bracket: 1. What are the symptoms of a bad or going bad bottom bracket(noise, pedaling feel, etc.)? 2. When do you determine that a bad BB need to be replaced or just fixing/fine-tuning and put it back? 3. What's the advantage/disadvantage of the sealed BB over the earlier unsealed BB? 4. What/where measurement(s) to look for on the BB so you can get the correct replacement BB?
If the BB is turning smooth and quiet, then it is likely fine. But if turning sticky or rough, or has excessive play, or many other possible problems, it needs to be looked at. Generally cartridge BBs are just replaced. Older BBs can be overhauled, cleaned and lubed, new bearings installed. As far as measurements, if varies by type of BB. Older square taper BB's you measured spindle length and BB shell width. Most BB's use british threading, but vintage french and italian bikes had different threading as well as older made in England Raleigh bikes. So I can't give you a simple answer as there are too many variables. You will have to do some research.
TIP: always add antisieze grease when you pull these off. Then next time it will come off very easy. The grease is also a seal against water intrusion. The reason the get real tight. Is they are steel. and the frames are aluminium. So you get that galvanic corrosion of non similar metals. Which basically bonds them together.
Once had to hold the tool in with a bolt in the spindle and put the tool in a vice and turn the frame to get out the right hand side.Incredibly tight.Thought I would bend the frame.
One time I had to put the tool in a vice and turn the bike.So tight.Sometimes I have to put a 8mm 1mm pitch bolt through the tool with some washers on to stop it slipping out.They can be VERY hard to get out because of corrosion etc.
My bike shop pulled out his whole tool box and sayed to me simply,you need all these tools that cost about 2 grand to reamove your crank bearings but I can do it for cheaper.Now I watch your video I was dam,ass,hustler lol.Its easy besides the ard to start stuff.lol
great video. Just wanted to check which way both sides loosen/tighten, thanks for that. I'm going to use copper-greece when I put it back together. (My bike, 20yr old Giant Cadex CFR-4)
Personally I would usually regular grease. Copper grease is for high temp applications, which this is not. And there is a debate whether copper grease prevent galvanic corrosion or not.
I have a sealed cartridge bottom bracket called Truvativ Giga X Pipe ISIS. I understand the ISIS is the fitting but what does the GXP mean? If I want to replace my crankset does that mean I need it to be specific to ISIS and GXP? Thanks
My Huffy Outlier bike cheap bearings ring broke at 2200 miles. So local bike guy is putting in sealed bearing bracker. How many miles can I expect? I don't ride trails, just roads and sidewalks.
is a 68x123.5mm square taper bottom bracket an incredibly rare size? i cannot find it even as an option anywhere sizewise. do i have any other options? i see 122.5 for some, but i know 1mm can be a huge difference sometimes... thanks for any guidance.
un consejo, cuando necesitas aplicar fuerza en la llave tanto para aflojar como para ajustar una tuerca debes hacerlo aplicando fuerza hacia abajo y no hacía arriba ya que sobrecargas tu brazo y puedes lesionarte, en cambio hacía abajo puedes usar el peso de tu cuerpo para ayudarte y hacer menos fuerza. Saludos
Thank you for great video. I should watch it before I did remove my center bearing :-D. On RIGHT hand side of bike, I totally did not expect LEFT THREAD type, so instead of loosening it, I was tightening it. Luckily I realized that before it was too late, so I only little damaged the thread. One kind note to your video: At beginning you say ,,these nuts can be extremly tight" and when you do tighten it, it seems, that you apply quite big force :-) I think that, there is no need for big force. Asi it is fine-threaded and you tighten into alu-alloy. By the way, is there some torque rating-specification? This is exactly kind of thread, which I would love tighten by torque wrench. As if you do it wrong, than you can say to your bike frame: "Bye, bye" :-D Also I would recommend to do loseing and tightening process with bike standing on wheels (on the groud), because othervise you can during loosening damage your bike stand (it can be seen in your the video, how stand is moving-flexing)
Maybe you can help. I have a felt q520 with a th cartridge type bb, I have an FSA Afterburner that I want to install. My question is, can I and if so how can I use a PF30 system in the bike?
Cj my buttom bracket was made out of plastic and i tried removing it with a screw driver, and the teeth of the buttom bracket got worn out and there is no way to grip the buttom bracket. Any suggestions?
Hey RJ. I wonder if you have ever opened a bb like this, only to remove the spindle and use it for the fixed cup style of bb. I tried to google it but no success. I have a fixed cup style of bb, bought new cranks and the spindle is too long for them. Chainline is way off. It seems to be cheaper to buy a new bb-un25 for example, cut it open and remove the spindle, than it is to order just the spindle. Do you think it could be done? Thanks.
One more question. When i removed my bike's crank arms, it took some force. Now when i put them back, is there anything i should consider? I mean i struggled a bit to remove them and now when screw them back, i would hammer the arms a bit to be sure that they're tightly seated? Drive side seems to be specially important because after i put the arms back, i hear hissing sound from sprocket when the gear is on 5 and up (8 gear Nexus). It didn't have any such sound before i replaced BB. So i guess chain wheel is not precisely aligned with the sprocket? I did my best to really tighten the arm screw.
sir can i use just a regular bike lube or grease instead of the kind of lube that your using. coz u cant find that kind of lube here where i live. thnks
Very helpfull video. I have a late 1990s Mongooae Croosway 850. I would loosen the bracket by turning clockwise on the drive side and counter clockwise on the other side? Also it's extremely tight and difficult to remove by hand. Beside using an impact wrench like in your other video, what else can I try? Should I take it to a bike shop to have it removed? How do I find out what bottom bracket fits my bike? Thanks again for all the great videos
I saw a video you made of a DIY tool from Shelton Brown that tightend the bracket in the direction ithat the bracket loosens to squeeze and turn it at the same time. Do you think this tool/technique will work for me?
I've always used Phil Wood waterproof grease as my anti-seize on threads. Should I change? A mechanic taught me that years ago and I never thought about it since.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Great! I have a Pogliaghi from the 90's set up as a half step that I want to change to a half-step with granny, but the BB on it is so good that I've never had to overhaul it, so I've forgotten how some of this works. Your videos are so helpful since I can see old and new stuff. This bike is built up with 7 sp Suntour Accushift, which I really like, so I'm juggling to see what to keep, what to get rid of considering that compatible freewheels are getting scarce and expensive. Good thing I like downtube shifters!
Problem, I just bought a new square taper, threaded and sealed bottom bracket, much like the one in the thumbnail. The cups or whatever they're called on each side will barely turn and I cannot remove either one in order to insert it into the bike. It's English threaded and I know I'm turning it correctly. Using the correct tool, a breaker bar, and vice grips and it barely turns but will not loosen up. Am I missing something?
Good video. I recently got a specialized hard rock and need to change the bb can you tell me if the drive side is reverse threaded on specialized bikes?
RJ The Bike Guy thanks . I have been out of the bike work game for awhile and you have no idea how helpful your videos are and the fact you actually respond to your msgs means allot to me
I have a few questions about a bottom bracket on a 3900 trek and what tools I need to remove it so I can figure out what new one I need. Learning very slowly about repairing my own bikes as its expensive threw my LBS.
The tools vary depending on the bottom bracket. If it's got a sealed cartridge BB like the one in this video, you will likely need the tool used int he video. If you have an older square taper BB, then there are different tools. I will need to figure out what tools you need. They aren't too hard to figure out by looking at the BB and the tools. I have multiple videos with BBs.
Hi RJ! great video, thank you! I have a question, i was installing a new un26 shimano BB, but there ir a little gap (1mm MAX) on the non drive side. Its that a problema or is it just fine? again, thank you for all your videos
For more bike repair videos hit the subscribe button 🛑 and click the notification bell ► bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy
No silly music, camera in focus, clear concise instructions, I salute you
I was wondering I left feeling smarter without the headache - great video.
Ditto, excellent!
As close to perfect instructional video as you can get. No flashy transitions, no screaming/yelling, no jump-cuts, and as you stated, no distracting music. I have always liked RJ's videos for these reasons....and of course, I often learn from them.
Yes!!
Finally...someone on the internet that explained it correctly in a free to view video, thanks !!!!! this really helped me - Nick
Thank you so much for this! I was about ready to throw my Trek dual sport off a cliff after bringing it to a shop twice this year for the creaking and clicking. A couple hours , about $30 in tools and a $15 part ..... I fixed it myself and I am back to loving my bike! I appreciate you , RJ!
Wow I would stop going back to them
ALWAYS appreciate clarity and demystifying bike maintenance. I just bought a new crankset and was a little concerned about the bottom bracket. I feel MUCH better now.
Of all the videos I’ve watched.. this guy is the easiest to follow and understand .. thanks !!
Great video! I have never messed with one of theses before so i wanted some visual instructions first before i attempted this on my own. Honestly this is one of the better ones i have seen. Definitely subscribed!
It looks like that I am little by little able to do everything on bikes thanks to you!! Very clear and thank you very much!
My old Trek 370 started creaking recently, came back to watch this vid before replacing the sealed bottom bracket cartridge...thanks again RJ, I should be good to go for another thousand miles on that old trusty bike now :)
way more than a thousand miles...
I finally managed to remove my bottom bracket which I installed myself. It wouldn't budge at all using spanners and extensions. The core problem was holding the bb removal tool in place while you turn the spanner. The side that jammed was as in 2:16, ie the second side. After months of delay and thinking what I should do, I used two bb removal tools and an F-clamp with some lax on the other side (the other side was fitted in 90% in). This was just in case this side also turned when you unscrew the other side. There was no problem with flying bb tools now as the whole setup seemed secure. I used my foot and body weight on the spanner which I covered with some old clothing to prevent slipping. But for suspense the thing just wouldn't move. I thought perhaps I had turned the wrong direction but I put my faith in the instructions here and kept on trying.
I was in disbelief when I felt the bb tool actually moved and had to check the changed position of the spanner to confirm my luck.
Key: 1 Don't over tighten the bottom bracket a slight nudge after the caps stop moving in at the end of the thread is sufficient. If you ride a lot it pays to change or clean the bottom brackets on a regular basis.
2 Don't scrooge on the grease. The more the merrier. This time I greased the entire tunnel so water doesn't stick to the metal surfaces; and both the male and female threads.)
I installed one of these a long time ago, needed a refresher to see how to do it, thanks!
I regularly leave positivecomments on RJ the bike guy. He is easy to follow and I rarely go wrong when i do follow him. The key is the more you do the easier it is
I've used that kind of anti-seize maintaining factory machines for decades. Nothing ever came loose from it until I wanted to take it apart. It saves so much trouble!
Once again ..saved me time and service call...Getting sqweeks from my bottom bracket from an old Giant mt bike...I changed the perals which helped alot but stilla faint sqweek...but was wondering how to change the bearings...now I know...thx..Pastor Chuck
th-cam.com/video/84YpHC6523s/w-d-xo.html
Hey RJ The bike guy can you make a video showing how to measure the bottom bracket to show how you can get the right size that you need for your bike
Bike Perv yes rj plssss
Very useful, many thanks: I've been looking about for some kind of instructions and this was the clearest and most concise I've found.
Right, I'm off to fit my BB on my bike...
ETA: Subscribed first...
Thought maybe you would mention cleaning the frame threads before reinstalling
and apply fresh grease.
Just signed in to thank you in kind for sharing this knowledge. My bike started squeaking from the bb and I needed to service it. I love riding and when my bike goes down and I can't ride, it is a bummer. Thanx again from the sunny and mild central coast of California.
I have had so much trouble with these in the past.Had to put a bolt through the tool and hold it in place on the bracket.Then put that in the vice and turn the whole frame .These can be almost seized in solid.Extremely tight after sea water/perspiration and steel against aluminum.EXTREMELY hard sometimes.Gotta make sure you turn the tool or frame the right way!!
th-cam.com/video/SJ1qosxTGbY/w-d-xo.html
hard job to do the bottom bracket removable not easy first time. the park tool 22 bottom bracket slipping out and is 3/8 wrench is small tool with no power leverage. the Pedro bottom tool 1/2 wrench is big with long bar you are strong man
Thanks, I got a Trek Earl last year and the bottom bracket is noisy when I peddle. I'm thinking of hobbying bikes so the first project will be looking at the Earl's bottom bracket. Thanks for the how to!
M was extremely tight too. So tight that I literally thought it was stuck in there forever. However, I did eventually get it out which was great. I first soaked it in WD40 (pour/spray copiously down the seat tube so that it pools at the bottom, and soak the outside of the BB shell around the threads in WD40 also). Then pour a full kettle full of boiling water over the BB shell (frame upside down). Pour it over slowly so that the boiling water has time to warm up the metal frame. The water shouldn't damage the paint job at all, but maybe mask off sensitive areas such as brakes.Then as immediately as possible fit a large, strong piece of metal pipe (~1m long) over a large adjustable spanner connected tightly to the BB tool. Lever down on the end of the pipe for maximum torque. It should finally begin to unscrew now. Worked for me where all other methods failed. Hope it works anyone else too.
I will try that. I am just concerned with mine as the notches are already damaged and sheer force may damage them even more
+Philo201269 Yeah that would be a slight worry. If I were you I would brace the removal tool tightly against the BB shell, strap it even? And also put some blocks under the tool so the force from the lever isn't getting to bend it down (as opposed to just purely rotational). Good luck! The hot water worked really well for me, so make sure you pour lots over it.
If you have a plastic cup on one side, try removing the metal side first.
If you have a plastic cup on one side, try removing the metal side first.
Better to use penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench, etc., superior to WD40. Even better many claim a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid is tops. That and several applications over time.
I'm glad you only applied a "little" anti seize to them threads, Lordy-Lordy. Besides the pun, thanks for this vid. Now i can finish practicing on the wifey's bike.
Way cool... I now have the bottom bracket removed and ready get a new one installed. Thanks for the Video that actually makes sense and is easy to follow. :)
First class videos top man RJ best videos on TH-cam
While you have that BB out... i would take a brush and clean up the inside of the BB hole and put a layer of water proof-anti-seize grease, then put the BB back thru and finish up.. I see rust inside and cleaning that up and putting a layer of protection will help avoid future problems.
A beautifully thought out and photographed how-to. You got the light just right and the camera real tight so you could see everything in detail.
Very helpful video Bike Guy.. My first rebuilt ever.. The worst case scenareo for me..nothing would remove the cranks except for an angle grinder! replace chainset and BB anyway.. running perfect... After a thief stole my new MTB i decided to rebuild my old one and learnt heeps by doing it... Turn bad into good! and buy some serious D LOCKS too
Full Moon Party Video Sorry your bike stolen. I m surprised about the cranks. I have never had that much trouble getting them off with a puller tool except for damaged threads.
Bikes about 12 Years old , they were totally seized/welded.. Fork Joint splitter had no effect!.. crank puller tore the threads out completely
Another method is to remove the crank retaining nuts/bolts and ride a couple miles. This will often loosen the arms, but can potentially damage the surfaces inside the arms where they mate with the spindle.
DANTDM
Just finished removing (and then disassembling and greasing) the Shimano sealed cartridge unit in an old Schwinn Mt. bike, following this excellent tutorial. Thanks much!!!
how do you disassemble a sealed BB? I just got mine out and have no idea how to access the bearing to apply grease.
I love your are always helping us with the knowledge of how to fix bikes live long RJ
Thank you for showing what in need to know.
I love RJ the bike guy!
Thank you. All clear. I have aluminum frame and old one completely stuck. Doesn't help even two feet pry bar with half drive. It's good idea to use torch or it's danger for aluminum ?
(no worry about paint, frame will be repainted after overall completed ) ?
This video was really helpful. Cheers! Got me old banjaxed bottom bracket off and replaced.
I've found that a long metal pipe over the wrench does the job very well
I, a bike newbie, have a few questions about the bottom bracket:
1. What are the symptoms of a bad or going bad bottom bracket(noise, pedaling feel, etc.)?
2. When do you determine that a bad BB need to be replaced or just fixing/fine-tuning and put it back?
3. What's the advantage/disadvantage of the sealed BB over the earlier unsealed BB?
4. What/where measurement(s) to look for on the BB so you can get the correct replacement BB?
If the BB is turning smooth and quiet, then it is likely fine. But if turning sticky or rough, or has excessive play, or many other possible problems, it needs to be looked at. Generally cartridge BBs are just replaced. Older BBs can be overhauled, cleaned and lubed, new bearings installed. As far as measurements, if varies by type of BB. Older square taper BB's you measured spindle length and BB shell width. Most BB's use british threading, but vintage french and italian bikes had different threading as well as older made in England Raleigh bikes. So I can't give you a simple answer as there are too many variables. You will have to do some research.
Thanks great video 😊 I had to use proper force to remove mine! I'm guessing they didn't use anti seize when it was built.
Nice tips, this is quite detail compare to others... I subscribe, bro!!
TIP: always add antisieze grease when you pull these off. Then next time it will come off very easy. The grease is also a seal against water intrusion. The reason the get real tight. Is they are steel. and the frames are aluminium. So you get that galvanic corrosion of non similar metals. Which basically bonds them together.
Correct. Some job getting it off. Had to hacksaw chunnks and tap it out with screwdriver
Do you have to do left side first ?
Can I just use regular grease rather than the anti seize lubricant? Thanks for the videos!
Once had to hold the tool in with a bolt in the spindle and put the tool in a vice and turn the frame to get out the right hand side.Incredibly tight.Thought I would bend the frame.
th-cam.com/video/lqLjzICoBks/w-d-xo.html
Clear instructions, bravo!
One time I had to put the tool in a vice and turn the bike.So tight.Sometimes I have to put a 8mm 1mm pitch bolt through the tool with some washers on to stop it slipping out.They can be VERY hard to get out because of corrosion etc.
There is always this: th-cam.com/video/SJ1qosxTGbY/w-d-xo.html
I remembered when my first time installation of this that I have no proper tools and I tighten it with just a hammer and a nail. ^_^
Me too, 2 weeks ago, but my dad showed me a better way
Great video but seem that my left side is small then the bbt22 ? Any advice on show to take it off ?
I just got some free parts from a friend, I got a Shimano sealed like this in your video, but one of the screw ins is plastic?
My bike shop pulled out his whole tool box and sayed to me simply,you need all these tools that cost about 2 grand to reamove your crank bearings but I can do it for cheaper.Now I watch your video I was dam,ass,hustler lol.Its easy besides the ard to start stuff.lol
If you were to torque it what would you torque it too? And torqued necessarily?
Thanks again RJ your the Man Dude 😎💜
great video. Just wanted to check which way both sides loosen/tighten, thanks for that. I'm going to use copper-greece when I put it back together. (My bike, 20yr old Giant Cadex CFR-4)
Personally I would usually regular grease. Copper grease is for high temp applications, which this is not. And there is a debate whether copper grease prevent galvanic corrosion or not.
Have an old Raleigh frame, want to do an upgrade. Want to use a sealed bottom bracket, any idea what measurements it would be? Thx....
Will the blue marine grease suffice; I don't have the other stuff?
I have a sealed cartridge bottom bracket called Truvativ Giga X Pipe ISIS.
I understand the ISIS is the fitting but what does the GXP mean?
If I want to replace my crankset does that mean I need it to be specific to ISIS and GXP?
Thanks
I'm rebuilding this frame that has a 68mm BB Shell. I accidentally bought a 74mm bottom bracket. Will this still work?
My Huffy Outlier bike cheap bearings ring broke at 2200 miles. So local bike guy is putting in sealed bearing bracker. How many miles can I expect? I don't ride trails, just roads and sidewalks.
I have the same un26 bottom bracket its awsome very smooth and very strong
So, how do you know the BB size of the cartidge and special tool? And how do you know the size+type of crank to specify for the cartridge?
is a 68x123.5mm square taper bottom bracket an incredibly rare size? i cannot find it even as an option anywhere sizewise. do i have any other options? i see 122.5 for some, but i know 1mm can be a huge difference sometimes... thanks for any guidance.
un consejo, cuando necesitas aplicar fuerza en la llave tanto para aflojar como para ajustar una tuerca debes hacerlo aplicando fuerza hacia abajo y no hacía arriba ya que sobrecargas tu brazo y puedes lesionarte, en cambio hacía abajo puedes usar el peso de tu cuerpo para ayudarte y hacer menos fuerza. Saludos
Thank you for the video😊
Is there a chance to damage the frame threads by removing the bb, let's say if it's really stuck?
Thank you for great video. I should watch it before I did remove my center bearing :-D. On RIGHT hand side of bike, I totally did not expect LEFT THREAD type, so instead of loosening it, I was tightening it. Luckily I realized that before it was too late, so I only little damaged the thread. One kind note to your video: At beginning you say ,,these nuts can be extremly tight" and when you do tighten it, it seems, that you apply quite big force :-) I think that, there is no need for big force. Asi it is fine-threaded and you tighten into alu-alloy. By the way, is there some torque rating-specification? This is exactly kind of thread, which I would love tighten by torque wrench. As if you do it wrong, than you can say to your bike frame: "Bye, bye" :-D Also I would recommend to do loseing and tightening process with bike standing on wheels (on the groud), because othervise you can during loosening damage your bike stand (it can be seen in your the video, how stand is moving-flexing)
Keep doing what your doing love it!
can I switch that for a euro bottom bracket?
Would this be the same tool to remove ISIS style bottom brackets? Do you have the link to this tool? Thanks
Is this tool a 20 tooth? Also anti seize is great stuff. I had it on a freewheel I hadn't removed for years and when I did it came right off.
20 tooth? The BB tool? Not sure I'd have to go count.
Awesome & Thanks Sir 🙏🕊
I much prefer old cup and cone bb,at least i can get them off to service
Can these bottom brackets be opened and have their bearings cleaned and regressed? Or are we stuck with having to replace the whole bottom bracket?
Thanks for the information
I see that your bike stand DOES stand against your force when you tighten the BB. I'm impressed! Is it Park Tool?
Yes. www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000OZFJS4/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
My hero. 👍
Always great
Maybe you can help. I have a felt q520 with a th cartridge type bb, I have an FSA Afterburner that I want to install. My question is, can I and if so how can I use a PF30 system in the bike?
Looks like what i need to do on Rockhopper. Thanks.
Very good and clear explanation thank's a lot it is very helpfull!! :-)
Thank you for the video sir. Very helpful tut. *thumbs up*
How long should this repair last before you have to repair it again?
Good vids, any information on when to replace the sealed bottom bracket? What are the signs that a replacement is required?
If there is play in the cranks and the BB caps are tight. Of if there is roughness in turning the cranks.
Cj my buttom bracket was made out of plastic and i tried removing it with a screw driver, and the teeth of the buttom bracket got worn out and there is no way to grip the buttom bracket. Any suggestions?
Excellent video.
Very helpful video
Hey RJ. I wonder if you have ever opened a bb like this, only to remove the spindle and use it for the fixed cup style of bb. I tried to google it but no success.
I have a fixed cup style of bb, bought new cranks and the spindle is too long for them. Chainline is way off.
It seems to be cheaper to buy a new bb-un25 for example, cut it open and remove the spindle, than it is to order just the spindle.
Do you think it could be done? Thanks.
One more question. When i removed my bike's crank arms, it took some force. Now when i put them back, is there anything i should consider? I mean i struggled a bit to remove them and now when screw them back, i would hammer the arms a bit to be sure that they're tightly seated? Drive side seems to be specially important because after i put the arms back, i hear hissing sound from sprocket when the gear is on 5 and up (8 gear Nexus). It didn't have any such sound before i replaced BB. So i guess chain wheel is not precisely aligned with the sprocket? I did my best to really tighten the arm screw.
is there a case it can be over thighten I naught a sagmit bb it kinda feel like heavy even on low gear ratio?
sir can i use just a regular bike lube or grease instead of the kind of lube that your using. coz u cant find that kind of lube here where i live. thnks
Very helpfull video. I have a late 1990s Mongooae Croosway 850. I would loosen the bracket by turning clockwise on the drive side and counter clockwise on the other side? Also it's extremely tight and difficult to remove by hand. Beside using an impact wrench like in your other video, what else can I try? Should I take it to a bike shop to have it removed? How do I find out what bottom bracket fits my bike? Thanks again for all the great videos
More power, or take it to a shop.
I saw a video you made of a DIY tool from Shelton Brown that tightend the bracket in the direction ithat the bracket loosens to squeeze and turn it at the same time. Do you think this tool/technique will work for me?
Are there any anti-seize lubricant for non-metal bottom brackets? I'm instaling a Hollowtech II BB from Shimano. Is there anything I can use?
Use a light coating of grease. I prefer marine grease. th-cam.com/video/TcyaSEAhI5k/w-d-xo.html
I've always used Phil Wood waterproof grease as my anti-seize on threads. Should I change? A mechanic taught me that years ago and I never thought about it since.
It will work fine. I use marine grease most of the time these days.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Great! I have a Pogliaghi from the 90's set up as a half step that I want to change to a half-step with granny, but the BB on it is so good that I've never had to overhaul it, so I've forgotten how some of this works. Your videos are so helpful since I can see old and new stuff. This bike is built up with 7 sp Suntour Accushift, which I really like, so I'm juggling to see what to keep, what to get rid of considering that compatible freewheels are getting scarce and expensive. Good thing I like downtube shifters!
@@ef2b If you go to Shimano SIS, you will have a wide range of compatibility.
best video ever! thanks.
Good helpful vid thanks
nNice video; just a question: does the sealed cartdrige BB needs maintenance too? I mean, do it has to be disassembled or directly repalced?? THANKS
+giacotubo Generally a cartridge BB doesn't need maintenance, but is replaced when it starts having issues.
Problem, I just bought a new square taper, threaded and sealed bottom bracket, much like the one in the thumbnail. The cups or whatever they're called on each side will barely turn and I cannot remove either one in order to insert it into the bike. It's English threaded and I know I'm turning it correctly. Using the correct tool, a breaker bar, and vice grips and it barely turns but will not loosen up. Am I missing something?
thank you👏
Good video. I recently got a specialized hard rock and need to change the bb can you tell me if the drive side is reverse threaded on specialized bikes?
Usually.
RJ The Bike Guy thanks . I have been out of the bike work game for awhile and you have no idea how helpful your videos are and the fact you actually respond to your msgs means allot to me
I have a few questions about a bottom bracket on a 3900 trek and what tools I need to remove it so I can figure out what new one I need. Learning very slowly about repairing my own bikes as its expensive threw my LBS.
The tools vary depending on the bottom bracket. If it's got a sealed cartridge BB like the one in this video, you will likely need the tool used int he video. If you have an older square taper BB, then there are different tools. I will need to figure out what tools you need. They aren't too hard to figure out by looking at the BB and the tools. I have multiple videos with BBs.
Is there anyway to communicate so I could send a picture?
shyflirt1 its a 2008 trek 3900 still seems to have the original bb and crank on. Ive looked at treks archive site with no luck
You can post it over on my FB page: facebook.com/RJTheBikeGuy
Hey RJ, you haven't made any videos about pressfit bottom brackets. Will be be coming any time?
At some point.
Tnx
Hi RJ! great video, thank you! I have a question, i was installing a new un26 shimano BB, but there ir a little gap (1mm MAX) on the non drive side. Its that a problema or is it just fine? again, thank you for all your videos
Not an issue. The non drive side just supports the cartridge.