Webster Engine - Part 6

The journey continues. In this episode I finish the valves, guides and ports. I also tackle the gears that drive the exhaust rocker cam - with mixed success. Rather than the DP32 gears specified, I used Module 0.8 metric gears as the cutters were much cheaper and more readily available. However the M0.8 gears are slightly larger, so I had to relocate the hole for the exhaust cam shaft - an interesting challenge.
Link to Webster Engine playlist: • Building the Webster E...

[@MattysWorkshop]

Gday Alan, I have the 32DP cutters here, I didn’t give it a thought to let you know, the spring on the intake valve I believe is a bit to stiff, Piano wire is what I’ve made springs from before and worked spot on, have a great Christmas, cheers

[@alanshomeworkshop]

I saw there's something special under your Christmas tree this year Matty, and I'm sure you'll make good use of it :)
The drawing calls for .013 music wire for the inlet valve spring - can you tell me where you bought yours ?

[@graedonmunro1793]

good job Alan!!! best wishes.

[@alanshomeworkshop]

Thanks Graedon.

[@paulrayner4514]

nice recovery, sorry can't help with the gears i've never cut any! but i'm sure someone will give you some good advice. you and your family have a great christmas and see you next year.

[@alanshomeworkshop]

Thanks Paul.

[@MrAndrewKayton]

Nice recovery with the gear relocation. It looks like the intake spring is to heavy/strong for atmospheric opening. It took a little fiddling with mine to get the spring right.

[@alanshomeworkshop]

Thanks for the feedback Andrew. The intake spring came from my random collection of springs and may well be too strong. I'd like to have a go at making a spring if I can source some thin enough wire.
Cheers.

[@termlimit]

Excellent video Alan. Any chance you can lightly bore out the Morse taper on the rotary table using the mill? Or pull the faceplate and do it in the lathe? Trying to sort out solutions as if that was an issue I might have. Great outcome other than that bigger gear. Thank you for the video.

[@badjuju6563]

You could maybe grind it with a tool-post mounted grinder in the lathe

[@alanshomeworkshop]

Thank you for the feedback. I still need to do more checking to be sure about the root cause of the problem - didn't want to disappear down yet another rabbit hole just yet :) The manual (pamphlet) that came with the unit includes an exploded view that shows the MT socket as a discrete item. If it is possible to remove this, rectification may be a bit easier - I live in hope :)
Cheers.

[@badjuju6563]

Nice recovery Alan. Dumb question but are the gears over engaged..... they kind of look it but it may also be camera angle... Does it jam up on a post-it note paper when put in the gear mesh?

[@alanshomeworkshop]

Thank you, and the paper check is a good suggestion. The info I had re the gears showed the distance between centers as 30mm. As this is my first try with Module 0.8, I just aimed for 30mm and hoped for the best. But given the outcome, I think I'll make another 25 tooth gear next and use it to check meshing with the first one. That'll be in a little while though as I have now been benched for Christmas :)
Cheers.

[@badjuju6563]

@@alanshomeworkshop since you are redoing the 50t gear anyway, try skimming the OD and recheck.... takes nearly no time and costs nothing.

[@alanshomeworkshop]

@@badjuju6563 Made a new 50T gear today and it meshes perfectly with the 25T. Root cause of my problem was the mystery metal bar stock I used for the first gear. At 12:33 you can see horizontal lines or zones in the metal - I think this is the legacy of some ancient welding which created hard spots.

[@badjuju6563]

@@alanshomeworkshop scraptonium sttikes. Merry Christmas, thank you for your time and the videos.