I am going away from the original design here by going with my timing belt idea . With this in mind it is time to machine the flywheel .It is good to machine some larger diameter stock for a change.
Great film. I liked your method of milling three flats to get that safely in the three jaw. Toothed pulleys and a cam belt great idea. Be interesting to play around with the timing!
Gday Ade, great idea with the timing belt, definitely putting a twist on the build, there’s a fair bit of machining in the flywheel, mine was a bit of a pain being steel not cast iron, brilliant job as always mate, Cheers
Ade, using a work piece to set your tool height works fine but a big chunk of expensive cast iron isn’t the best way make yourself a centre height tool I will dig out an old model engineers plans I made one for a myford 7 40years ago.
I would have used an HTD3 belt and pulley set up but it’s still a great idea to use a timing belt and pulley. Since I am building this same engine I may use some of your ideas. Great job thus far.
It would be better but the cam for the spark timing is there already. I do think the belt will last the life of the engine as I will probably not run it often . Cheers Ade
That’s a tough question. Chuck manufacturers usually don’t want the end of the jaw protruding beyond the outer body of the chuck. That doesn’t give as much a diameter as most people want. Jaws should never, in any case, be more than a third past the outer part of the scroll, otherwise you get too much strain on the scroll and the jaw teeth. I know people go further, but they’re wearing the chuck too quickly, and with less expensive chucks, the scroll often isn’t hardened much.
That is a good answer Mel . I would always make sure that at least two sections of the scroll are engaged with the number three jaw . however when the jaws are outside the perimeter of the chuck I will minimise the load and treat it as a temporary measure to get a job done . I would hate to damage my chuck and if that lump of cast came out and hit me! the air may be a little blue . Cheers and thanks for your support Ade.
Apologies . I did miss out on loads of work on this due to battery on my camera . When this happens on small parts or multiple parts I can film the next one . Trouble is I had only one shot at this . Note to self , " must check batterys" Thanks for watching , Cheers Ade.
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good job ades
Well attacked Ade, successfully working to the limits of your lathes capacity is a great feeling. Cheers, Jon
I sure need to remember about milling those flats to fit larger flywheels on my small chuck. You are lucky to get such nice gifts! 👍
Clever approach to getting the job done and making use of the equipment you have to hand. Nicely done sir.
Great film. I liked your method of milling three flats to get that safely in the three jaw. Toothed pulleys and a cam belt great idea. Be interesting to play around with the timing!
That's a rebell in action, milling down 3 spots to be able to chuck the piece in. Great!
You got that right! Always find a way to do it somehow . Cheers Ade.
Brilliant idea, as always very educational.
Enjoying, looking forward
Nicely done.
Great video ADE,KEEP'UM coming.
Gday Ade, great idea with the timing belt, definitely putting a twist on the build, there’s a fair bit of machining in the flywheel, mine was a bit of a pain being steel not cast iron, brilliant job as always mate, Cheers
Ade, using a work piece to set your tool height works fine but a big chunk of expensive cast iron isn’t the best way make yourself a centre height tool I will dig out an old model engineers plans I made one for a myford 7 40years ago.
I would have used an HTD3 belt and pulley set up but it’s still a great idea to use a timing belt and pulley. Since I am building this same engine I may use some of your ideas. Great job thus far.
Best of luck with that timing belt mate 👍 👌
Would it be better to extend the shaft so that the pulley can be on the outside for easier belt replacement.
It would be better but the cam for the spark timing is there already. I do think the belt will last the life of the engine as I will probably not run it often . Cheers Ade
Thanks Ade
Any time! Cheers Ade,
THANKS ADRIAN
As usual, a great video Ade. Is there a rule of thumb as to how far out you can safely have the jaws out of the scroll?
Typically not more than 1/2.
That’s a tough question. Chuck manufacturers usually don’t want the end of the jaw protruding beyond the outer body of the chuck. That doesn’t give as much a diameter as most people want. Jaws should never, in any case, be more than a third past the outer part of the scroll, otherwise you get too much strain on the scroll and the jaw teeth. I know people go further, but they’re wearing the chuck too quickly, and with less expensive chucks, the scroll often isn’t hardened much.
That is a good answer Mel . I would always make sure that at least two sections of the scroll are engaged with the number three jaw . however when the jaws are outside the perimeter of the chuck I will minimise the load and treat it as a temporary measure to get a job done . I would hate to damage my chuck and if that lump of cast came out and hit me! the air may be a little blue . Cheers and thanks for your support Ade.
shame you dont show all the machine work
Apologies . I did miss out on loads of work on this due to battery on my camera . When this happens on small parts or multiple parts I can film the next one . Trouble is I had only one shot at this . Note to self , " must check batterys" Thanks for watching , Cheers Ade.
@@ade63dug still a great channel keep up the good work