I'm retired now. I never worked in residential, strictly commercial/industrial for me but I see that the tech in this video employs some of my techniques: sitting cross-legged on the floor, testing the pressure switch the way he did. I salute you, Sir.
We really learn to appreciate you guys willingness to work weekends. We got up at 4AM a few weeks back with outside temps at five degrees and no heat from the furnace. Igniter burned out. The replacement part was a week out if ordered that day.
I'm happy they opted to do the work you recommended. That was a very wise choice on their behalf. You'll do them right and do what needs to be done and done properly. Great job on both ends.
When you do your job correctly and thoroughly like you did, then your work speaks for itself. I've been doing this for 20 years, and some things I see shock the he'll out of me lol. Good job getting him back to where it should be. A good after video of the work you did would be nice, but I understand how valuable your time is. And also, no matter what you did, you would still have people saying "you should have done this".
I had a similar issue a couple weeks ago on a Goodman furnace. The burners would sporadically cut out, I originally thought it was a dirty flame rod. It was pretty crusty, cleaned it off and threw it back in there. Ran fine for a minute, then shut itself off. Same would happen where the inducer would turn on and nothing else. The blinky light flashed a code for “pressure switch stuck open.” The switch itself proved to be fine, and there was no restriction in the flue pipe. Turned out it was the board itself going bad. Just yesterday I replaced the board on it, after the customer finally approved it. The furnace worked beautifully after that. As for the door switch, I use a strong magnet to keep it closed. Works for most of them.
My HVAC guy just replaced the board on my 11-month-old Goodman furnace. I was getting the 8 red LED code flashing constantly in the winter. He redid the ground and replace a thermostat before doing the board.
Here, in my area, we have lots of wasps. They love to enter high efficiency furnace exhaust outlets and build huge wasps nests in the vent. I would not recommend telling everyone to not use a screen but it needs to be a log tube design, knited stainless, you can order some online, about one square foot. Next, roll into a tube at least 6" long, just large enough diameter to clamp on that downward exhaust elbow. Make two with the 1 sq. Ft when making them. There is no real restriction because you have lots of open scree area in the tube type. Simply pinch the end closed at the bottom, looking like an instrument reed, and you eliminate the air bouncing back with a bottom looking like a jar. If you live in an area with wasps, they build nests in the summer when you are not heating normally. They like to go where you can't reach. I placed an access y at the furnace allowing me to check for old wasps nests using my drain snake spinning to the exit of the exhaust vent. It will help your reader but might eliminate one of your replacement jobs, the vent or vent cleaning. Always exceptions to rules depending on where you live.
Nice work! About 15 years ago I heard a loud thumping in the furnace when it was running. Turns out my 5 year old nephew decided to throw a couple of golf balls into the vent! Since I screened it but with much wider screening and it's held up after all these years with no issues. However I seem to go thru ignitors every few years. Just last week the less than 2 year old ignitor failed! The plumper said they don't make them for my model furnace any longer so he had to make a new bracket and adapt a universal ignitor. So far so good, I got fingers crossed this one will last. Best Regards, Jay
I don't mind screening on the flue over the summer, I have seen mice, birds ( tiny brown ones with the white dots) lol, bee's nest in the piping and down in the burner's, just take it off for winter season.
You have to put something over it. All sorts of critters climb in there. Probably just need something with. A large area and to inspect it annually. Where I live wasps would plug it up during the summer.
Instead of using tape on the door switch, I use a long skinny zip tie wedged in the switch leaving it hanging out between the door and frame that way you can remove the panel and not loss power, or when the door is in place just pull on the zip tie to remove.
If you want a screen, it needs to be tubular so that the total area of all the holes equals the original pipe area. It''s impossible for a flat screen to not be restrictive if the pipe is right at the needed size.
Wherever we had to use mesh on the exhaust, we used a much larger mesh screen, and added it as a maintenance item. Ot was really only meant to keep birds and rodents from nesting inside
Or at least form a long cone to maximize surface area and minimize backpressure. Things like mud daubers will give you hell: if they build a nest in the summer inside that pipe, you lose cross section, and don't know about it until winter arrives. I hate those bastards...
Yeah a lot of those pipes are 2 inches, and are not downward facing but face forward. Birds love that sh*t and will plant a nest in the summer. Some baby bird falls in and when you use the furnace in the winter it gets sucked down the pipe and ends up in the induction motor. Then find the body rolling around in the induction motor. But no never use a screen over a flue pipe right?
@@flinch622 Wait until they get on the squirrel cage fan wheel on a wall mounted furnace. Poor client thought his whole unit was going to jump off the wall.
I could see using an automotive vacuum meter and hand operated vacuum pump for this. You could test to see how much vacuum is being pulled on the switch and, using the hand operated vacuum pump, see at what point the switch will operate.
I've seen a hard substance build up in the hose nipple connection that block flow to the switch. I carry a small drill bit that I use with my fingers to clean out the small nipple,
They are perfectly fine 95% of the time. The screen in this video had plenty of air flow still. It was not the problem. Only when they get plugged are they an issue but if you are inspecting your dwelling regularly like a good homeowner should, its not a problem. It keeps wasps and other bugs out.
Have used metal window screen for years on condensing furnaces and never had a problem with it here in the Charlotte, NC area. We have more problems with spiders building nests in the vacuum port and hose.
That is the smartest feature you can use when there are things that need to be addressed with the customer. Otherwise, they are only relying on what you say, not what you say and what you can show them ! It's rare anyone is going to take you up on a dirty trip under the house or into the attic to show them issues that are not worth leaving alone. How could anyone doubt you once you have the problems on video...it just shows you are experienced and know your craft and not trying to sell bull. Great offering to the customer and they will get more life out of their HVAC's once the pro gets done with his work vs. the stoke's who "service the HVAC's twice a year". They passed up on some repairs maybe by not presenting them to the customer. (or the customer didn't want to had they). These videos are super sales aids for a customer who is shell shocked from past rip off HVAC.
The in laws had their furnace go down, caused by dead mice which had crawled up the pipe, so they put a screen over the pipe. The furnace seems to work in this configuration now for years. Should the exhaust vent be higher off the ground? Also, they have plants growing near the pipe, maybe the mice used them as a ladder…
Problem is Rats and not mice, rats can crawl up all the way to the roof from the house exterior, putting the pipe higher won't make a difference, the problem is the mesh he used which is pretty thin almost like the ones you use as a window screen which is a no no.
yeah, this dude clearly didn't think of the real world about why you might want to cover a flue pipe. He loves cash money by his channel name clearly, does't think DIY is a thing and wants you to pay him when you can do it yourself. hvac is not that hard, but yet you can't go to a local hvac supply shop and buy a capacitor without being licensed. pretty infuriating when your outdoor unit is down because of a 10 dollar capacitor and you can't buy one yourself unless you buy it online and wait a few days.
Here in the south we PM that pressure switch first thing by running a piece of wire through the nipple in the bonnet. Nearly always have some carbon built up in it
What do you think changes, obviously this "setup" with the screen works before. Which components wear and are no longer able to work properly with the screen potentially years later?
Before I go in to look at the furnace, I look for a horizontal PVC pipe. If there is a cover or screen on it, I make a mental note and then see if its a exhaust problem.
Critters of all types from birds to insects love to build nests in those vents and can get all the way into the pressure switch. It can be a constant battle.
@@tomvana4270 I saw a vent pipe completely full of acorns brought in by chipmunks. Luckily it was found before the temps got cold. One house had a squirrel get clear to the burners in the intake PVC pipe.
my weil mclain boiler requires stainless screens on the intake and exhaust and it has always worked fine with them it says just check screens at beginning of heating season
So my furnaces from Goodman pack units come with screened vents to screw into the outside… should I not install the screen part? I live in az so idk if things are different, it’s a 2 piece vent application, 1 vent covers the flue exit, the other vent is the screen that slides in-between.
Wow, we are lucky we do not need to put a quarter in the slot for this Free Education from the Cooks School of hard Knocks, Thank You TED, you are a credit to your Service to the Public!
You can take a square sheet of slick black plastic and cut out a hole for the PVC pipe to go through then attach the plastic to your house. When the critters try and climb the plastic, they slide down. It won't obstruct your pipe.
Thank you for your great content on mistakes. Question - is this kind of termination (90 pointing down) acceptable? I'm used to "periscope" style. I mean i understand if it's right next to the intake to separate them but if it's a single exhaust, is periscope still required?
Yep. In a crawl space you can have rodent droppings with Hanta virus and whatever microbes are in the soil, which you stir up crawling in. In the attics you have fiberglass and mineral wool which are pretty much like asbestos, it goes in but it doesn't come out.
10:37 because birds make nest inside. and when that happens, it is a much bigger headache to remove them. I have my drain pipe vents nested by birds. But of course if said pipe is constantly blowing hot air, birds wont go in
In all my years up hear in the great North I have never ever had anything nest or crawl into the flue pipe. Now hot wheels cars, marbles, rocks, bouncer balls.......... Totally different story
This was the problem with my unit and they could not figure out what was going on it would keep cycling on and off and on and off. Replaced board, replaced gas valve replaced just about every other component and in the end it was a clogged exhaust that was the issue. There wasn't a screen on mine but rather some debris collected over the years and it was just cycling off my furnace. Cleared the exhaust and it now works perfectly fine. Took a few techs to figure it out.
Ol' Ted had to take the long way around. You should have left a trail of bread crumbs behind you so you could find your way back out of the forest and back to the furnace. 😎👍😉👍😄👍
Seen that a few times , they say it worked all year ok but don't do it I'll be back, then you show or explain the whole picture of everything else you seen and same response been working fine so far. Or maybe they get the big picture and you get a new customer. 👍 Good show
Believe it or not. In California when they install the furnace. The building inspector says a screen is required over the flue pipe. So most guys do it like that under title 24. Never made sense to me.
as a installer some times we have issues with customers about why we dont put screen over the flue pipe.i explain to them but most of the time they wouldn't be satisfied and they want screen.
Great video lesson. Question: what do you recommend to keep mice (etc) out of the PVC lines to/from the outside? I have found them in my basement HVAC system.
Dam i learn more In Ur vids then at work some places will keep u a water boy forever thx r u hiring will work for free to get skills...keep up the great work look forward to all ur videos God bless Keep America Great Again...much love from losangels & Chicago
I had a job where the customer complained of no heat. Got the system to fire up with the door off but once I put the door on I noticed the door would push out a little when starting up the fire. Found a poor little bird cooked in the exhaust pipe next to the draft motor. Removed bird and it worked. Found the exhaust on the rood had no protection from a little bird getting into the 4 inch pipe. Recommended that they put chicken wire over the pipe to keep birds out. At least you did not find an Easter egg in the return plenum.
@@mikeznel6048 It might not hurt the furnace but I've seen over the years high temp switches stick open even after the furnace cools off. High temp or limit switches are not meant to be running controls. A couple of times having the furnace overheat can make many of them fail open.
I can’t tell you how many times I’ve talk to customers this and have them completely plugged up with leaves, grass or even snow. And it’s all because they put window screen overlapped over the pipe.
I thought the same, not very professional at all and a good thing one of the kids didn't step out as wouldn't have been a good outcome!! Do your comments before you start diving and give your Full attention to your your diving that makes Everyone much safer!!
Just out of curiosity its it a builder preference to put these split units under the house rather in the garage, closet or attic. Where I live in south east tn people mainly have package units
Where we lived most were in crawl spaces under the homes. or on platforms in attics. I loved the few that were in equipment rooms. Due to a high water table not many homes had basements.
If the furnace only uses R….W….G…..Y….(possibly C) terminals…..then Yes. R is the power and W is for Heat. G is for the indoor blower motor. Y is for the air conditioner. C is the common terminal.
Wrong kind of screen anyway. Looks to me like a half ass gobble together junk they make anyway a proper flue pipe guard. Anyway Ted as usual is amazing. Wish he was in southeastern PA. In my area there are too many Bigger hvac conglomerates VS the mom and pop hvac service guys and they are always in a hurry and do a half ass job. Thankfully I found a smaller company right over the border in Delaware that actually know what they are doing. And understand proper hvac sizing and ductwork. Like for example for a heat pump an 1100 square foot townhome with 2 floors takes a 3 ton not a 1and a half ton. And needs an upstairs return. Or as my hvac guy said in polite terms. For heating you could get away with it. But for cooling way undersized and not ideal or efficient. But for heating also not ideal or efficient. Also referring to the ductwork.
Is this kind of termination (90 pointing down) acceptable? I'm used to "periscope" style. I mean i understand if it's right next to the intake to separate them but if it's a single exhaust, is periscope still required?
Need more screen surface area... and I bet you a dollar to a donut another HVAC guy put that screen (or a screen) on there. I've seen it where they go from that smaller size up to a much larger size, then screen that, and not flat... shape it like it hangs down. More screen area is better. They DO put screens on around there. It's needed.
I put a 2" plastic screen that's designed to go in the female end of a vent like that, very coarse grid (⅜"squares) just to keep rodents and things out with no restrictions...
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I'm retired now. I never worked in residential, strictly commercial/industrial for me but I see that the tech in this video employs some of my techniques: sitting cross-legged on the floor, testing the pressure switch the way he did. I salute you, Sir.
Ted is amazing
We really learn to appreciate you guys willingness to work weekends. We got up at 4AM a few weeks back with outside temps at five degrees and no heat from the furnace. Igniter burned out. The replacement part was a week out if ordered that day.
I'm happy they opted to do the work you recommended. That was a very wise choice on their behalf. You'll do them right and do what needs to be done and done properly. Great job on both ends.
Ted can do more work one-handed than most techs can do with two. Always amazes me !
When you do your job correctly and thoroughly like you did, then your work speaks for itself. I've been doing this for 20 years, and some things I see shock the he'll out of me lol. Good job getting him back to where it should be. A good after video of the work you did would be nice, but I understand how valuable your time is. And also, no matter what you did, you would still have people saying "you should have done this".
My scarry favorite is the copper pipe cutoffs to replace fuses that are tripping on the A/C disconnect.
I had a similar issue a couple weeks ago on a Goodman furnace. The burners would sporadically cut out, I originally thought it was a dirty flame rod. It was pretty crusty, cleaned it off and threw it back in there. Ran fine for a minute, then shut itself off. Same would happen where the inducer would turn on and nothing else. The blinky light flashed a code for “pressure switch stuck open.” The switch itself proved to be fine, and there was no restriction in the flue pipe. Turned out it was the board itself going bad. Just yesterday I replaced the board on it, after the customer finally approved it. The furnace worked beautifully after that. As for the door switch, I use a strong magnet to keep it closed. Works for most of them.
My HVAC guy just replaced the board on my 11-month-old Goodman furnace. I was getting the 8 red LED code flashing constantly in the winter. He redid the ground and replace a thermostat before doing the board.
Here, in my area, we have lots of wasps. They love to enter high efficiency furnace exhaust outlets and build huge wasps nests in the vent. I would not recommend telling everyone to not use a screen but it needs to be a log tube design, knited stainless, you can order some online, about one square foot. Next, roll into a tube at least 6" long, just large enough diameter to clamp on that downward exhaust elbow. Make two with the 1 sq. Ft when making them.
There is no real restriction because you have lots of open scree area in the tube type. Simply pinch the end closed at the bottom, looking like an instrument reed, and you eliminate the air bouncing back with a bottom looking like a jar.
If you live in an area with wasps, they build nests in the summer when you are not heating normally. They like to go where you can't reach. I placed an access y at the furnace allowing me to check for old wasps nests using my drain snake spinning to the exit of the exhaust vent. It will help your reader but might eliminate one of your replacement jobs, the vent or vent cleaning.
Always exceptions to rules depending on where you live.
Just got me a can of jack of all sprays . Used it to fix threads on a bolt using it for lube in a die. No mess. .Good stuff Ted
Nice work! About 15 years ago I heard a loud thumping in the furnace when it was running. Turns out my 5 year old nephew decided to throw a couple of golf balls into the vent! Since I screened it but with much wider screening and it's held up after all these years with no issues. However I seem to go thru ignitors every few years. Just last week the less than 2 year old ignitor failed! The plumper said they don't make them for my model furnace any longer so he had to make a new bracket and adapt a universal ignitor. So far so good, I got fingers crossed this one will last. Best Regards, Jay
A great view and really enjoyed hearing your insight on the various things you noted. Thanks
Ted, glad you enjoyed your visit to this house!
I don't mind screening on the flue over the summer, I have seen mice, birds ( tiny brown ones with the white dots) lol, bee's nest in the piping and down in the burner's, just take it off for winter season.
You have to put something over it. All sorts of critters climb in there. Probably just need something with. A large area and to inspect it annually. Where I live wasps would plug it up during the summer.
Absolutely, wear mask every time you go to these attics, very unsafe to breathe the air with all kinds of stuff flying.
And crawlspaces.
Yes that plenum was a mess lol incredibly insightful Thank You for posting!!
Learned a long time ago that common window screen can cut airflow by up to 50% even when it's clean.
Unless you give ample area, ie not just tight across the opening.
Instead of using tape on the door switch, I use a long skinny zip tie wedged in the switch leaving it hanging out between the door and frame that way you can remove the panel and not loss power, or when the door is in place just pull on the zip tie to remove.
Thx Ted. At least you didn't find rotting birds like Steve Lav this week.
Steve doesn't think much of this guy for sure
Thanks for inspiring me to be a DIY HVAC. Honestly, I love the channel
If you want a screen, it needs to be tubular so that the total area of all the holes equals the original pipe area. It''s impossible for a flat screen to not be restrictive if the pipe is right at the needed size.
Wherever we had to use mesh on the exhaust, we used a much larger mesh screen, and added it as a maintenance item. Ot was really only meant to keep birds and rodents from nesting inside
Or at least form a long cone to maximize surface area and minimize backpressure. Things like mud daubers will give you hell: if they build a nest in the summer inside that pipe, you lose cross section, and don't know about it until winter arrives. I hate those bastards...
Yeah a lot of those pipes are 2 inches, and are not downward facing but face forward. Birds love that sh*t and will plant a nest in the summer. Some baby bird falls in and when you use the furnace in the winter it gets sucked down the pipe and ends up in the induction motor. Then find the body rolling around in the induction motor. But no never use a screen over a flue pipe right?
@@flinch622 Wait until they get on the squirrel cage fan wheel on a wall mounted furnace. Poor client thought his whole unit was going to jump off the wall.
My intake and exhaust has mesh over them that are about 3/8s inch squares.. a bee could go in but a bird or mouse could not get in .
Work's fine..
Except in the North, you will be chipping ice off that mesh. You don't want that.👎
You can take the strap off the capacitor and fold a piece of rubber inner tube up and sandwich it in-between.
I could see using an automotive vacuum meter and hand operated vacuum pump for this. You could test to see how much vacuum is being pulled on the switch and, using the hand operated vacuum pump, see at what point the switch will operate.
I always just flip the switch on the gas valve to cool the heat exchanger then snag my jumper. Good video man.
I've seen a hard substance build up in the hose nipple connection that block flow to the switch. I carry a small drill bit that I use with my fingers to clean out the small nipple,
Or a small length of thermostat wire. You most likely already have a length for jumping so it's dual purpose
always wondered about the screens on the flues... I've thought they were pretty nifty to use to keep critters out
It's an absolute no go.
If critters are a concern, get a heater which comes with a screened flue.
They are perfectly fine 95% of the time. The screen in this video had plenty of air flow still. It was not the problem. Only when they get plugged are they an issue but if you are inspecting your dwelling regularly like a good homeowner should, its not a problem. It keeps wasps and other bugs out.
Have used metal window screen for years on condensing furnaces and never had a problem with it here in the Charlotte, NC area.
We have more problems with spiders building nests in the vacuum port and hose.
You could never do that in northern states. It will freeze and generate a No Heat call.
That is the smartest feature you can use when there are things that need to be addressed with the customer. Otherwise, they are only relying on what you say, not what you say and what you can show them ! It's rare anyone is going to take you up on a dirty trip under the house or into the attic to show them issues that are not worth leaving alone.
How could anyone doubt you once you have the problems on video...it just shows you are experienced and know your craft and not trying to sell bull. Great offering to the customer and they will get more life out of their HVAC's once the pro gets done with his work vs. the stoke's who "service the HVAC's twice a year". They passed up on some repairs maybe by not presenting them to the customer. (or the customer didn't want to had they). These videos are super sales aids for a customer who is shell shocked from past rip off HVAC.
The in laws had their furnace go down, caused by dead mice which had crawled up the pipe, so they put a screen over the pipe. The furnace seems to work in this configuration now for years. Should the exhaust vent be higher off the ground? Also, they have plants growing near the pipe, maybe the mice used them as a ladder…
Mice can go straight up a wall.
Mice can climb up that brick very easily.
Problem is Rats and not mice, rats can crawl up all the way to the roof from the house exterior, putting the pipe higher won't make a difference, the problem is the mesh he used which is pretty thin almost like the ones you use as a window screen which is a no no.
yeah, this dude clearly didn't think of the real world about why you might want to cover a flue pipe. He loves cash money by his channel name clearly, does't think DIY is a thing and wants you to pay him when you can do it yourself. hvac is not that hard, but yet you can't go to a local hvac supply shop and buy a capacitor without being licensed. pretty infuriating when your outdoor unit is down because of a 10 dollar capacitor and you can't buy one yourself unless you buy it online and wait a few days.
@@cranbers Sounds like you need to find a better local supply shop. (there are no rules / laws against buying a cap.)
Here in the south we PM that pressure switch first thing by running a piece of wire through the nipple in the bonnet. Nearly always have some carbon built up in it
Would also be good to hook up meter to pressure switch leads while sucking to ensure it closes the circuit
What do you think changes, obviously this "setup" with the screen works before. Which components wear and are no longer able to work properly with the screen potentially years later?
There was mention of a possible rat's nest inside the plenum. Or could instead be: chipmunks that got up through the exhaust pipe (?)
The old potato up the tailpipe problem. Good find!
Before I go in to look at the furnace, I look for a horizontal PVC pipe. If there is a cover or screen on it, I make a mental note and then see if its a exhaust problem.
Critters of all types from birds to insects love to build nests in those vents and can get all the way into the pressure switch. It can be a constant battle.
Never seen it in 30 years. Occasionally leaves pulled in but never anything else.
@@tomvana4270 I saw a vent pipe completely full of acorns brought in by chipmunks. Luckily it was found before the temps got cold. One house had a squirrel get clear to the burners in the intake PVC pipe.
I often gets a bee/wasp nest in my pipe. I used a much bigger mesh than this guy but it has helped stop the insects from nesting in my pipes
my weil mclain boiler requires stainless screens on the intake and exhaust and it has always worked fine with them it says just check screens at beginning of heating season
So my furnaces from Goodman pack units come with screened vents to screw into the outside… should I not install the screen part?
I live in az so idk if things are different, it’s a 2 piece vent application, 1 vent covers the flue exit, the other vent is the screen that slides in-between.
I don't know how you can sit Indian style. All the years of doing hvac has limited my flexibility for sure. Great video
I couldn't do it either; I was too fat!
I started covering mine when the dirt daubers started building nests in the inlet pipe. I would remove it during the winter prior to use.
thats a great idea
Wow, we are lucky we do not need to put a quarter in the slot for this Free Education from the Cooks School of hard Knocks, Thank You TED, you are a credit to your Service to the Public!
Could u uses a piece of pvc to go from a 2" to a 3" opening and then put a larger mesh on it?
Yes you can they make special steel large round screens just for that purpose won't keep out bees but will keep out birds and mice....
You can take a square sheet of slick black plastic and cut out a hole for the PVC pipe to go through then attach the plastic to your house. When the critters try and climb the plastic, they slide down. It won't obstruct your pipe.
Why would you do that?
@@dustinjohnson7191 to have a wider open for a screen cover with a larger surface that wouldn't be as restrictive.
Thank you for your great content on mistakes.
Question - is this kind of termination (90 pointing down) acceptable? I'm used to "periscope" style. I mean i understand if it's right next to the intake to separate them but if it's a single exhaust, is periscope still required?
You are correct sir, please get a mask on. Think of that every time I watch your great videos. Keep up the excellent work
Yep. In a crawl space you can have rodent droppings with Hanta virus and whatever microbes are in the soil, which you stir up crawling in. In the attics you have fiberglass and mineral wool which are pretty much like asbestos, it goes in but it doesn't come out.
I always just turned the gas valve off, and let the blower cool the heat exchanger and then removed my jumper.
10:37 because birds make nest inside. and when that happens, it is a much bigger headache to remove them.
I have my drain pipe vents nested by birds.
But of course if said pipe is constantly blowing hot air, birds wont go in
th-cam.com/video/5u7WeQOZLRw/w-d-xo.html
In all my years up hear in the great North I have never ever had anything nest or crawl into the flue pipe. Now hot wheels cars, marbles, rocks, bouncer balls.......... Totally different story
This was the problem with my unit and they could not figure out what was going on it would keep cycling on and off and on and off. Replaced board, replaced gas valve replaced just about every other component and in the end it was a clogged exhaust that was the issue. There wasn't a screen on mine but rather some debris collected over the years and it was just cycling off my furnace. Cleared the exhaust and it now works perfectly fine. Took a few techs to figure it out.
Ol' Ted had to take the long way around. You should have left a trail of bread crumbs behind you so you could find your way back out of the forest and back to the furnace.
😎👍😉👍😄👍
Next time!
Seen that a few times , they say it worked all year ok but don't do it I'll be back, then you show or explain the whole picture of everything else you seen and same response been working fine so far.
Or maybe they get the big picture and you get a new customer. 👍 Good show
I always pull out the manometer and check in order to see the before and after.
thanks for sharing,good find,new customer.
Believe it or not. In California when they install the furnace. The building inspector says a screen is required over the flue pipe. So most guys do it like that under title 24. Never made sense to me.
Loved the arm chaired warriors comment, been doing your same gig in jersey for forty years it's tough to keep the comments pc keep good wrenchin!
Replace the whole plenum rather than repair that small section of insulation?
Is that the condensation line that was meshed? What do you recommend using to keep rodents out then?
I had bees hives blocked inside exhaust furnace vent and I had cleaned out and installed PVC pipe gator.
another big problem with the mesh on the pipe is that it will build an ice dam on that exhaust outlet.
What does the vacuum line (the black one ) opposite the one you checked do? Looks like it goes to the gas valve? Curious.
as a installer some times we have issues with customers about why we dont put screen over the flue pipe.i explain to them but most of the time they wouldn't be satisfied and they want screen.
What a hack job that ductwork was. The screens are very necessary, but you can't use smaller than the 1/4 inch mesh.
Nice find and nice fix ... Thx for sharing ...
Seems a bit trivial. Screens dont really prevent flow much unless theyre clogged. Looks pretty clesn overall.
Hello from the great state of Michigan. St. Ted I did not notice a filter in the return air of that furnace
Filters most likely in the return grilles.
Good job,Ted. In my years, I have seen cobwebs cause the pressure switch to not make, let alone that screen.
Love watching your videos.
Great video lesson. Question: what do you recommend to keep mice (etc) out of the PVC lines to/from the outside? I have found them in my basement HVAC system.
gutter mesh......
Nice work Ted 👍
Dam i learn more In Ur vids then at work some places will keep u a water boy forever thx r u hiring will work for free to get skills...keep up the great work look forward to all ur videos God bless Keep America Great Again...much love from losangels & Chicago
A you got in the door so now you can perform your magic and get that system up to par. Nice job.
On ur video section it b nice if they were organized in categories like heat ac calls ice machine installs diagnosis etc
I had a job where the customer complained of no heat. Got the system to fire up with the door off but once I put the door on I noticed the door would push out a little when starting up the fire. Found a poor little bird cooked in the exhaust pipe next to the draft motor. Removed bird and it worked. Found the exhaust on the rood had no protection from a little bird getting into the 4 inch pipe. Recommended that they put chicken wire over the pipe to keep birds out. At least you did not find an Easter egg in the return plenum.
A few years ago we found a dead squirrel stuck in the 3" vent pipe!
Chicken wire would help and be less restrictive than a mesh screen.
Trying keep out wasp etc. We have the biv no heat on bard gas wall unit with wasp and other insects
I think you do great work!
Next time you need to cool the HX when you have a jumper inside, just switch the gas valve off, or unplug the pressure switch.
Nha it's not gonna hurt it.
@@mikeznel6048 It might not hurt the furnace but I've seen over the years high temp switches stick open even after the furnace cools off. High temp or limit switches are not meant to be running controls. A couple of times having the furnace overheat can make many of them fail open.
Thanks for the video, Ted. That will be something I keep an eye out for in the future.
Should of used Sammy screws and rod with uni-strut and hung that unit, instead of those cinder blocks.
I doubt that screen obstructed much but I'll go along with you.
generally if you were to get some sort pvc screen you would have to upsize it at the end atleast
I can’t tell you how many times I’ve talk to customers this and have them completely plugged up with leaves, grass or even snow. And it’s all because they put window screen overlapped over the pipe.
2 years ago my sister's furnace sucked a plastic grocery bag cloging the air intake causing problems
Nice rolling stop and left turn in front of the 3 people on sidewalk who appear to have intended to cross.
I thought the same, not very professional at all and a good thing one of the kids didn't step out as wouldn't have been a good outcome!! Do your comments before you start diving and give your Full attention to your your diving that makes Everyone much safer!!
I once found a live crow in the firebox. Chimney had a screen. No, I don't know-how.
While I agree that a screen is too fine, I've had a piece of aluminum gutter mesh on my intake and exhaust side for 15+ years..... no problems
Just out of curiosity its it a builder preference to put these split units under the house rather in the garage, closet or attic. Where I live in south east tn people mainly have package units
Where we lived most were in crawl spaces under the homes. or on platforms in attics. I loved the few that were in equipment rooms. Due to a high water table not many homes had basements.
Do you show customers video from your phone, or take them down there to look?
I found 2 deceased sparrows inside a Bosch tankless water heater once. No screen on the intake pipe.
I had one plugged up by dirt dauber nest. I cleaned it out and it fired right up.
How do you not burn the heat anticipater jumping it like that?
Good many Sat & Sun do you charge addl for that ?
Question, can you jump out R to W to make a call for heat on all furnaces, or just Trane units?
If the furnace only uses R….W….G…..Y….(possibly C) terminals…..then Yes. R is the power and W is for Heat. G is for the indoor blower motor. Y is for the air conditioner. C is the common terminal.
Wrong kind of screen anyway.
Looks to me like a half ass gobble together junk they make anyway a proper flue pipe guard.
Anyway Ted as usual is amazing.
Wish he was in southeastern PA.
In my area there are too many Bigger hvac conglomerates VS the mom and pop hvac service guys and they are always in a hurry and do a half ass job.
Thankfully I found a smaller company right over the border in Delaware that actually know what they are doing.
And understand proper hvac sizing and ductwork.
Like for example for a heat pump an 1100 square foot townhome with 2 floors takes a 3 ton not a 1and a half ton.
And needs an upstairs return.
Or as my hvac guy said in polite terms.
For heating you could get away with it.
But for cooling way undersized and not ideal or efficient.
But for heating also not ideal or efficient.
Also referring to the ductwork.
Is this kind of termination (90 pointing down) acceptable? I'm used to "periscope" style. I mean i understand if it's right next to the intake to separate them but if it's a single exhaust, is periscope still required?
Good diagnostics. Thank you.
Skipped to the end for the diagnosis and laughed at every stop sign he ran xD
It would work fine but he needed a much bigger screen bag so it didn't restrict the flow
Need more screen surface area... and I bet you a dollar to a donut another HVAC guy put that screen (or a screen) on there. I've seen it where they go from that smaller size up to a much larger size, then screen that, and not flat... shape it like it hangs down. More screen area is better. They DO put screens on around there. It's needed.
Not sure if the video explains why not to put a screen over the pipe. That screen didn't seem clogged at all.
It cause a restriction on the flow it was designed to have without the obstruction. A.k.a "clogging"
This was interesting to see. Thanks!
I put a 2" plastic screen that's designed to go in the female end of a vent like that, very coarse grid (⅜"squares) just to keep rodents and things out with no restrictions...