Very well done. The content was clearly explained and demonstrated and gave me the vent information that I was looking for. I wanted to understand how the exhaust and intake roof vents should be arranged and questioned whether the my exhaust vent should output hot air down to the roof. Until finding this video I couldn't verify that the vents were incorrectly installed. It is understandable that vents were backwards because the area had been recently re-roofed and the fix will be easy. Thanks again for your excellent video.
I don't know who designed this system but they were not thinking clearly. We live in Buffalo, NY. All the high efficiency furnaces have this insane system. Every winter we are totally snowed under to the point we can't get out our back doors. Of course the exhaust systems are in the back of the house. We may be able to get out the front door but there was no way we could get around the house to clear the snow from the vents. Add crazy drifting to the snow mix and we're in trouble every year. The vents are too close to the ground. For the last few years, I've had to hang out our kitchen window trying to keep the vents from being buried. I'm in my late 70's. I am not the only one's having this problem. Every age group is having this problem. If we put a tent like cover over the vents (we own a duplex so we have two vent systems) we can't get to clear the snow at all. The "tent" isn't going to stop the amount of snow or drifting in to cover the vents. This is not a safe system. Something needs to be done to correct this problem. We found that if we get a new high-efficiency furnace, we're going to have the same problem.
Hey great vids. I am buying a house and just had an inspection done. The current owner had a large concrete patio installed and both intakes for the water heater and the furnace are only about 1-1.5” from the concrete. This seems like a problem and I hope there is an easy fix. Please advise.
I think the guideline that an exhaust pipe should not exit near a window is a little ridiculous, there are bigger considerations (i.e. ideal run length with minimal use of 90s, etc.) because when we are running our furnace, it's cold outside. And when it's cold outside, we tend not to open windows. So in the unlikely event someone decides to open a window when it's cold enough to be running the furnace and happens to choose the ONE window in the house near the high-efficiency furnace exhaust, and the wind/draft situation is just right to direct some fumes into the house, the smell will annoy somebody pretty quickly. It will also be heavily diluted by fresh air from outside, not concentrated fumes. In my house's case, the pipes are run in the most efficient way, but exit the house three feet below a living room window. I put a $3 locking window latch on that window "just in case," but I am not at all concerned given the reasons I listed above.
what type of pipe is code for the exhaust pipe? I've heard not to use Charlotte for some reason, but i know you're supposed to use a schedule 40. Can you help?
Is it a high efficiency furnace? It should have a system to deal with the condensation. If the condensation is on the exterior of the exhaust then it is the wrong material for the vent pipe.
Im curious if the high efficiency furnace we have is vented properly. How do you know if you have a direct vent with 2 pipes (intake, exhaust) vs one pipe system (just exhaust)?
you can put a screen on for summer, make sure it can't be sucked into furnace, then take it off for heating season and put on larger wire mesh for winter, i am going to have to do the screen next summer cause my furnace wouldn't stay lit and i cleaned out the pipes with large extension pole and damp sock taped to end of it and cleaned out mud from wasps, hade it happen twice now, had to run the furnace with door loose and plug removed from side where gas is, then it will run
I live in Minnesota and have had a couple contractors say different things. When there’s a deck involved with a high efficiency furnace installation, is it common practice to run the pvc under the deck and cut a whole through the front of the deck for the two pipes?
I really wish you would have taken the time to go over the clearances from openings and different structures. This video would have been way more helpful.
@@StructureTech1 I have the system in my crawlspace and do know that neither pipe is insulated. Could that be why both my supply registers and return have cold air coming from them when they are not running? Also, your video makes me realize that I need to keep the snow away from both the intake and exhaust pipes. Is that correct? The first winter we lived here we saw quite a bit of snow.
Very well done. The content was clearly explained and demonstrated and gave me the vent information that I was looking for. I wanted to understand how the exhaust and intake roof vents should be arranged and questioned whether the my exhaust vent should output hot air down to the roof. Until finding this video I couldn't verify that the vents were incorrectly installed. It is understandable that vents were backwards because the area had been recently re-roofed and the fix will be easy. Thanks again for your excellent video.
Definitely helpful. My furnace overheats frequently, I've just checked based on your recommendation and the intake & exhaust are switched!
Hey thanks! It’s -44 here in Canada and my furnace went out. This helped me figure it out and my 2 baby daughters thank you too.
Thank you sir for this wonderful information
Quality content! I'd love to see videos specifically targeting HVAC&R Contractors advising us how to better comply with standards & codes. Thank you
Very helpful. Thanks for the information you explained it so well.
Always great stuff
Is a high efficiency furnace more likely to have exhaust safety issues than a standard 80% that is vent through the chimney?
Since you mentioned condensate traps... Maybe the whole condensate system is also part of the same inspection.
I don't know who designed this system but they were not thinking clearly. We live in Buffalo, NY. All the high efficiency furnaces have this insane system. Every winter we are totally snowed under to the point we can't get out our back doors. Of course the exhaust systems are in the back of the house. We may be able to get out the front door but there was no way we could get around the house to clear the snow from the vents. Add crazy drifting to the snow mix and we're in trouble every year. The vents are too close to the ground. For the last few years, I've had to hang out our kitchen window trying to keep the vents from being buried. I'm in my late 70's. I am not the only one's having this problem. Every age group is having this problem. If we put a tent like cover over the vents (we own a duplex so we have two vent systems) we can't get to clear the snow at all. The "tent" isn't going to stop the amount of snow or drifting in to cover the vents. This is not a safe system. Something needs to be done to correct this problem. We found that if we get a new high-efficiency furnace, we're going to have the same problem.
Hey great vids. I am buying a house and just had an inspection done. The current owner had a large concrete patio installed and both intakes for the water heater and the furnace are only about 1-1.5” from the concrete. This seems like a problem and I hope there is an easy fix. Please advise.
I think the guideline that an exhaust pipe should not exit near a window is a little ridiculous, there are bigger considerations (i.e. ideal run length with minimal use of 90s, etc.) because when we are running our furnace, it's cold outside. And when it's cold outside, we tend not to open windows. So in the unlikely event someone decides to open a window when it's cold enough to be running the furnace and happens to choose the ONE window in the house near the high-efficiency furnace exhaust, and the wind/draft situation is just right to direct some fumes into the house, the smell will annoy somebody pretty quickly. It will also be heavily diluted by fresh air from outside, not concentrated fumes.
In my house's case, the pipes are run in the most efficient way, but exit the house three feet below a living room window. I put a $3 locking window latch on that window "just in case," but I am not at all concerned given the reasons I listed above.
I see both white pipes going through the roof. Do you think it was installed wrong? What should i look for??
Love the reference to Prov 16:2
Where did you mention the types of pipe to watch for?
what type of pipe is code for the exhaust pipe? I've heard not to use Charlotte for some reason, but i know you're supposed to use a schedule 40. Can you help?
Thx for posting
Nice one. Keep it up
Are there codes for how long you can run your flue pipes with standard efficiency furnaces?
I get condensation on the furnace exhaust vent pipes then it drips in to the furnace. What may be the issue?
Is it a high efficiency furnace? It should have a system to deal with the condensation. If the condensation is on the exterior of the exhaust then it is the wrong material for the vent pipe.
Im curious if the high efficiency furnace we have is vented properly. How do you know if you have a direct vent with 2 pipes (intake, exhaust) vs one pipe system (just exhaust)?
Thanks! Does anyone know if grates can be put on the pipes to keep critters out? 🐁 🐜 🐝
you can put a screen on for summer, make sure it can't be sucked into furnace, then take it off for heating season and put on larger wire mesh for winter, i am going to have to do the screen next summer cause my furnace wouldn't stay lit and i cleaned out the pipes with large extension pole and damp sock taped to end of it and cleaned out mud from wasps, hade it happen twice now, had to run the furnace with door loose and plug removed from side where gas is, then it will run
I live in Minnesota and have had a couple contractors say different things. When there’s a deck involved with a high efficiency furnace installation, is it common practice to run the pvc under the deck and cut a whole through the front of the deck for the two pipes?
I really wish you would have taken the time to go over the clearances from openings and different structures. This video would have been way more helpful.
You didn’t mention anything about having the pipe insulated in the attic
Good point. As far as I know, every furnace manufacturer will require the exhaust pipe to be insulated where it passes through unconditioned spaces.
@@StructureTech1 I have the system in my crawlspace and do know that neither pipe is insulated. Could that be why both my supply registers and return have cold air coming from them when they are not running? Also, your video makes me realize that I need to keep the snow away from both the intake and exhaust pipes. Is that correct? The first winter we lived here we saw quite a bit of snow.
He did say he didn't mention everything.
@@matthewnash8310 no he didn’t
@@theallaroundguy2399 except that he did at 12:45.
Great information - thanks Tip - keep the Jesus stuff to yourself.
praying for you. :)