Make custom LED neon shapes
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 เม.ย. 2022
- LED neon or LED flex is a very handy material for creating neon-like signage and effects.
As time goes on it's harder to find places that still make traditional glass neon. This is largely due to the advances made with LED technology providing a safe low voltage alternative for illumination of channel letters signs, and novel materials like this that emulate the traditional linear lines of neon.
Cost is a major factor too. While the LED neon flex won't last as long as a properly processed neon tube, it is easier to drive and much more tolerant of rough handling.
This project uses short pieces of LED neon flex to create very punchy looking geometric shapes. It's perfect for using up residual scraps from other projects.
To make a frame, copy and paste one of the scripts at the bottom of this description area into openscad, a free piece of open source software written by mathematical wizards. It allows you to describe 3D objects as text. That makes it very easy to adjust parameters to make custom STL files for using with your choice of slicer software (converts an STL file to a 3D printable form), and then print them with your 3D printer of choice.
Neon frame openscad scripts. Circle, triangle and square. Make sure you leave the "=" and ";" intact when adjusting variables - they are needed by the software:-
//LED neon circle frame
//Two main adjustable variables
thick=5; //thickness of LED neon
diam=121; //diameter of circular frame
//More specialist variables
wall=1.2; //wall thickness
height=6; //depth of groove
$fn=100; //circle segments
//Don't change variables below here
wl=wall*2;
thk=thick*2;
radius=diam/2;
difference(){
//main disk
cylinder(h=height+1, d=diam);
//central void
translate([0,0,-1])
cylinder(h=height+2, d=diam-thk-(wall*4));
//cable hole
translate([0,radius-wall-(thick/2),-1])
cylinder(h=height+2, d=thick-1);
difference(){
//channel groove outer dimension
translate([0,0,1])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=diam-wl);
//channel groove inner dimension
translate([0,0,-1])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=diam-wl-thk);
}
}
//LED neon triangle frame
//Adjust these main variables to suit
thick=5; //width of LED groove
width=150; //width of frame
//More specialist variables
height=6; //depth of LED groove
wall=1.2; //wall thickness
curve=20; //corner outer radius
$fn=100; //circle segments
//Don't change variables below here
wl=wall*2;
crv=curve*2;
thk=thick*2;
crz=(width/2)-curve;
tri=crz*1.732-crz; //peak of triangle
difference(){
//main disk
hull() {
translate([-crz,crz,0])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv);
translate([crz,crz,0])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv);
translate([0,-tri,0])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv);
}
//central void
hull() {
translate([-crz,crz,-1])
cylinder(h=height+3, d=crv-wl-wl-thk);
translate([crz,crz,-1])
cylinder(h=height+3, d=crv-wl-wl-thk);
translate([0,-tri,-1])
cylinder(h=height+3, d=crv-wl-wl-thk);
}
//cable hole
translate([0,(width/2)-wall-(thick/2),-1])
cylinder(h=height+2, d=thick-1);
difference(){
//channel groove outer dimension
hull() {
translate([-crz,crz,1])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl);
translate([crz,crz,1])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl);
translate([0,-tri,1])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl);
}
//channel groove inner dimension
hull() {
translate([-crz,crz,1])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl-thk);
translate([crz,crz,1])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl-thk);
translate([0,-tri,1])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl-thk);
}
}
}
//LED neon square frame
//Adjust these main variables to suit
thick=5; //thickness of LED neon strip
width=100; //width of frame
//More specialist variables
height=6; //depth of groove
wall=1.2; //wall thickness
curve=20; //corner outer radius
$fn=100; //circle segments
//Don't change variables below here
wl=wall*2;
crv=curve*2;
thk=thick*2;
crz=(width/2)-curve;
difference(){
//main frame
hull() {
translate([-crz,crz,0])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv);
translate([crz,crz,0])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv);
translate([-crz,-crz,0])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv);
translate([crz,-crz,0])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv);
}
//central void
hull() {
translate([-crz,crz,-1])
cylinder(h=height+3, d=crv-wl-wl-thk);
translate([crz,crz,-1])
cylinder(h=height+3, d=crv-wl-wl-thk);
translate([-crz,-crz,-1])
cylinder(h=height+3, d=crv-wl-wl-thk);
translate([crz,-crz,-1])
cylinder(h=height+3, d=crv-wl-wl-thk);
}
//cable hole
translate([0,(width/2)-wall-(thick/2),-1])
cylinder(h=height+2, d=thick-1);
difference(){
//channel groove outer
hull() {
translate([-crz,crz,1])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl);
translate([crz,crz,1])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl);
translate([-crz,-crz,1])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl);
translate([crz,-crz,1])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl);
}
//channel groove inner
hull() {
translate([-crz,crz,1])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl-thk);
translate([crz,crz,1])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl-thk);
translate([-crz,-crz,1])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl-thk);
translate([crz,-crz,1])
cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl-thk);
}
}
} - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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The first 90 secs of this video contains more useful 3d printer tips, than any dedicated 3d printer tip video I have seen so far! 👍
So true; I spent many hours watching 3D print videos, and it put me off buying one for years as it seemed so complicated.
🤦♂️
@@MrJozza65 Now we need to know what printer Clive has and than start watching hours of pro e cons about it before buying one ;-)
You're watching the wrong videos. And yes 3d printing can be easy and can be hard
Doesn't matter if it's 3d printers, vapes or computers, if it can be customised you'll eventually attract the self righteous arsehole hipsters that appoint themselves as gatekeepers of knowledge that will berate anyone how doesn't follow their own esoteric methods for achieving "perfection"
One detail I always love about your videos is the polite warning that you're turning the lights back on. It makes me feel like I'm your friend peeking over your shoulder in your workshop.
Heh yes its such a classy move. I come to hear him just talk at times as its so pleasant.
I love the classy and politeness of everything. Even warns you even when he's turning on the light.
Such an underrated channel. You could teach a bull to be gentle with the calmness of your voice.
I would love to try this.
Big shoutout to you using OpenSCAD. I make all of my parametric projects in OpenSCAD so that users can easily modify things to their liking, and I think you've done an excellent job here! Would be interesting to take some of these ideas and modify them to extrude arbitrary shapes from outlines
I think OpenSCAD also recently added SVG support so what you suggest is even easier. I've use it for making cookie cutters.
I hope you noticed, he included the 3 scripts in the video description.
Clive, I can recommend a fiberglass scratch pen. Really handy for when you want to clean up a contact and it's hard to get to. Also for cleaning various pots and such. Gives a more consistent clean, risks damage less.
I have one, but it's better suited to more open pads.
Those shapes could be printed with clear filament, which should make for an interesting effect... Cool stuff!
I never thought I'd ever see Clives big pink ring, but there it is in all its glory shining away.
This video was the push I needed to stop procrastinating and finish my half-assembled 3d printer.
Yep, 3D printing youtube channels make it sound like a massively complex thing when its not! I have kept the Cura reccomended settings for my printer other than setting temp for PLA to 215c first layer then 210c and bed 60c first layer then 55c, i use that for all brands of PLA and the only setting i ever touch is adhesion as a raft is sometimes needed for large items to prevent warping. had a 3d printer for nearly 2 years and my build plate was leveled once when i built the printer and it got done again recently after needing to re adjust the build plate runner adjusters because of play, none of that obsessive messing about like the youtubers would make you think is necessary. Build, adjust and print and only mess with it again if its not working properly!
YES we need a way to make letters like this... that would be so great!
Mack, that's very easy, actually. If you are talking about 3D printing, like I mentioned about, one can use
TinkerCAD.
It's a free, on-line CAD program that is super simple to use and LOTS of support.
Besides making any shapes you want, from simple to complex, it actually has a 3D TEXT generator...
What's cool about it, is that you can totally manipulate the size of the letters, and how deep (or raised) the inner channel is.
Meaning, you can adjust it so that the channels will fit the LED strips with ease.
Everyone who does not know about TinkerCAD should look into it as a beginners' option.
While I do use Fusion 360 for more complex, very precise projects, I do use tinkerCAD for some stuff too, because it's just so easy to use.
Besides 3D TEXT abilities, it even has a really nice GEARS generator to make whatever gears you may need for project. It works very well too and when you have your 3D printer dialed in properly, the gears come out perfect and very strong.
Hope that helps
There are some complex and clever ways to do this. But I don't do complex and clever. So I can recommend adding the dotSCAD library to OpenSCAD for its hollowing out function, start with this SCAD snippet, and play 🙂
use ;
$fn=80;
font="Comic Sans MS";
fontsize=80;
text="HELLO";
shell_thickness=1;
linear_extrude(5.5) text(text, font = font, size=fontsize); // base
translate([0,0,5.4])
linear_extrude(10)
hollow_out(shell_thickness=shell_thickness)
text(text, font = font, size=fontsize);
I'd guess you'd need to solder wires in to get around the tight corners the the top of an A
I have found the trick to this is using constant width fonts like courier new or OCR-A. then you can use the offset(-num) command then difference it from the original text then make a base with the original shape. edit: here is my code
channelWidth = 5;
channelWallWidth =1.2;// increasing this or channel Width will increase font size
channelHeight = 6;
baseThickness = 1;
pointsPerMM = 2.83465;
fontType="Courier New";
fontRatio= 6.25; //ratio needs to be adjusted for every font used to get acurate channel widths
//2.51 for OCRA &OCRB
//6.25 for Courier New
stringToShow = "Neon";
//end of custom variables
fontsize = (channelWidth+channelWallWidth*2)*pointsPerMM*fontRatio;
module outline2d(txt=stringToShow,sz=fontsize){
text(txt,size=sz,font=fontType,halign="center",valign="center");
}
union(){
linear_extrude(channelHeight+baseThickness){
difference(){
outline2d();
offset(-channelWallWidth) outline2d();
}
}
linear_extrude(baseThickness) outline2d();
}
@@20thcenturygamer22 As don't have to have tight corners. If you did, you might want to treat them as separate segments and do the soldering around the back.
Carefully avoiding adding the _"cross"_ to miss on that PlayStation copyright strike I see. 😏
The PlayStation logo and/or associated symbols are considered too basic to be protected under copyright. They are likely covered under trademark law, but the stipulations are surprisingly different.
This may or may not be an issue, and it depends on a lot of different things. Playing it safe is fine, but trademarks can typically be used in artwork without issue. Look at Andy Warhol, for example.
@@marsandbars (psst, buddy. it's a joke. i do appreciate the effort though)
@@DeathInTheSnow I got it 👍
@@DeathInTheSnow m.th-cam.com/video/FVikHLyW500/w-d-xo.html
Wires joining in the middle is an excellent idea, I might have to get some of this strip to have a play with. Maybe the wire hole could be offset so that it cuts slightly into one wall, to make it easier to get the thicker bit with the wires in? Obviously the user would then have to choose inside/outside offset.
This could be done with a (user) variable offset. Negative values shift the hole to the inside, positive values to the outside for example.
Also, for circles the script could be tweaked to calculate the diameter by the number of segments -> circumference... same goes for the other shapes, the bend radius could probably be used to tweak the dimensions in a way it divides nicely by the segment lengh
I was just thinking that! Place the hole directly beneath where the wires come "down".
I've watched this guy's stuff for a couple of years now and it's just getting better and better this guy in my book is golden and I just can't stop watching I love every word that comes out of mouth and that's hard to say when you're not guy. But I love you man. in enriched my life thank you sending love from Australia
Prevert.
I'd love to make an LED neon Spyro and PlayStation sign with these. I will definitely have to look into it. Awesome!
The Playstation symbols were the first thing I thought of. Also the mask from Crash Bandicoot in outline form would look cool too
That was my first thought as well, though it would be interesting to see how the X shape would work with the LED neon strips, since it's not a nice "round" shape like the others, If that makes sense.
I've had an Ender 3 for about 2 years, it hasn't failed on me once apart from bad bed adhesion due to not being leveled properly but as long as I occasionally check the levels and wipe the dust off it just keeps going without issues. A lot of people seemed to warn that you need to do this and that every now and then to keep it running and avoid clogs etc. but I've done barely any maintenance and can't see anything being out of the ordinary (yet)
Though I can see why using one would be really problematic for someone with very little technical knowledge so the cheap hobbyist models definitely aren't ready for the masses
All I can say is try to avoid those weird closed-source printers that seem to require specific brands of filaments and whatnot, the Ender 3 is a really good option because of the enormous community support and there's infinite amounts of mods and parts and all sorts of stuff available for it, and it also happens to be one of the cheapest models out there particularly with that kind of print area
I've had the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro for about the same amount of time. Both ran great out of the box. The biggest thing is to be careful assembling them. I ran a few rolls of filament through both before doing any mods, and they ran just fine. For the price, and the availability of many mods, they've both been fun and educational.
I've modded one really heavily, and it prints nearly 24/7, the other one has a few minor mods and prints maybe 8 to 10 hrs a day. TBH, the mods didn't change much, they were more just to see what tinkering I could do (AKA for fun). The only upgrade that I'd really recommend is stiffer bed springs. I don't even touch my bed leveling after setup unless I've had the hotend apart. In the time I've ran them both, I've had 2 heater cartridges die, and one thermistor start reading funky. I'm not meticulous on keeping it clean, but I do take a moment every now and then to check the belts and roller adjustments. My problem has been what to do with all the empty filament spools! I've used as many as I can and given a bunch away.
Next job will be recycling the brims and support materials into more filament! 😃
I found the use of hair spray keeps the object down and allows a clean breakaway when finished
Plug-and-play equipment comes with premium price, which really sucks for beginners (or the general masses) who just want something cheap. Issue is: cheap equipment is only viable if you know how (and are willing) to squeeze out the full performance with knowhow and elbow grease - it's a hobby for a reason. Same with computers, audio equipment, hand tools, and (famously) cars/motorcycles.
@@Arachnoid_of_the_underverse I've used gluestick on mine but I only really put it just in case if my object doesn't have much surface area, it seems to stick really hard so I have to be quite careful although sometimes it just pops off once it cools down
@@Arachnoid_of_the_underverse Hairspray is an live saver.
No matter if you have a heated bed or not.
Get the cheapest one you can find and have fun printing :)
This makes me wish I had a 3D printer right now! I'd definitely make a load of these! That pink glow from the neon looks amazing and the blue casing coupled with it makes for a very Vaporwave-like effect. Love it! I wonder if for the gap after cutting, it would be possible to make some translucent pink epoxy resin and pour it in to fill the gap! Great video as always, this is like Art attack for technical people, but useful!
These would be cool with addressable LED neon strips
Definitely!
neopixels!
they do exist, heck there are even COB versions of them they look neat, but are a bit expensive
@@ShahZahid Do you have a link? That would be soo cool 🙂
@@klausnielsen1537 idk y but youtube is just deleting my comment, heck i cant even write the name of the manufacturer.
EDIT: tried like 4 times it just gets deleted after a few mins :(
Love this led strip I have used it several times for undercabinet lighting....LOVE IT! Thanks for the inspiration Clive
I love this neon tube. I use it so much. I’ve made signs, I’ve done my poker tables with it. I’ve put it behind some decorative glass bricks to light them up. It’s awesome to work with.
Good advice Clive always keep your tip shiny and clean.
One of the few times a short led me someplace. Let alone a blast from the past.
Sick video.
Cheers Clive for a couple of working examples of the hull() command.
Now if one of your future designs could just slip in some minkowski() commands... ;)
OpenSCAD is so cool to use. All the best.
I had no idea shorts had a description. thank you.
Came for the instructions-stayed for the great accent!
I like the fact that you just put the OpenScad file in the description. Thanks.
You have opened my eyes to this wonderful world of bright lights, already having basic knowledge of mechanic work, I will definitely borrow my dads hobby desk to make some interior light solutions
Just stumbled upon you via the Fray Bentos algorithmicisms and I have to applaud you for the clear concise info delivery throughout all three videos I have watched till now haha
That 9v battery tip was what made me realize that I could make a battery powered solution to keep the interior mood light separate from the precious wiring loom, since I won’t be using it when driving anyway
So cheers for inspiring people big man, that’s me subscribed!
This is a very well done video, very instructive and quite clear. I also appreciate the use of OpenSCAD for the flexibility it offers, especially as you've used proper parametric code construction.
I suspect that one could also create letters of the alphabet to illuminate in a similar manner. I'm fond of using Inkscape with the Path to OpenSCAD extension (works with only 0.92 and below) which would make creating letters easier than trying to create the raw code. A bit more complex soldering would be involved for crossing letters such as A, R, etc.
I'm now subscribed and loaded the RSS feed into my reader as well.
Thanks for sharing.
Every maker and tinkerer should have a 3D printer. They have been around for long enough, they are cheap enough and easy enough to use these days. I custom print boxes for all my projects now.
I'm still oldschool enough to use hand tools to shape materials like wood and plastic. Then writing custom code for the electronics inside.
Great little production. A good lesson for open all sorts of innovation. Thank you Clive.
BigClive you are my favorite BigPhoton attractor
I have been on the fence about getting a 3D Printer, now I am definitely getting one!
I have so many applications to make these neon style LEDS to then incorporate them into my epoxy resin designs.
Thanks Clive, see staying up at night really does yield productivity! ( well inspiration that will eventually lead to productivity )
Glad you posted on my Facebook now. 😊
I always recommend against potting LEDs directly into resin as they will fail in the future and it pays to make it easy to change them. But a standard clear LED looks great potted in clear resin. The lens disappears and you end up with a sharp dot of light.
So these are the 3D printed, LED neons you referenced. Quite nice, Clive!
I made a big 6x7-seg clock display using these a while back using a similar way of mounting these strips. Looked quite nice with PWM to gently fade the segments on/off as the time changed :) They're really nice for this because they're already diffused, so don't need any diffusion panel mounted in front of them :)
I wonder if the script could be adapted easily enough to use the measured length of strip available, rather than the dimensions of the resultant frame?
I don't really have much interest in 3D printing, but these OpenSCAD videos are tempting me!
The first circle one was originally based on strip length, but it actually varies slightly between brands due to the way it goes round bends. So I changed it to outer size.
15m27s... 'We should have a big pink ring'! I have just laughed so much at that bit!
Absolutely love your big pink ring Clive
Thanks Clive I really enjoyed that, I've been looking for something unique to illuminate my cars interior with and this REALLY FITS THE BILL !!!!!!! THANKS AGAIN!!!
YES I 100% agree with just getting started with 3D printing and learning as you go. It is good practice to do a little bit of research beforehand, especially regarding safety. But besides that, there's really no need to know all the nitty gritty when getting started. If you learn by doing, you'll get a much deeper and more practical understanding of it.
A fibre glass pen for cleaning contacts is a useful tool to have to clean the brass and /or copper tracks. Oh boy, Clive has just told us he has a Big Pink Ring... LOL.
I love this content. Thank you Clive.
If you have difficulty getting a really neat join, you could cut the holder / mould to give it a bit of springiness to help close the join. A little bit of CA can then be used to reinforce it afterwards. Very nice effects
Had a good laugh when you brought out the code, thx mate 😂
I really like the look of these. Thanks!
I like connecting negative on one side of the strip, and positive on the other. makes for even illumination even on the strips that are too long.
A good tip about making the connecting in the centre, much neater!
The black background really helps!
Got to playing with this stuff to make displays in store (I work retail). I used a frame like the department of villainy and managed to win some money for the store social fund. Going to have to unpack the printer and give this a shot.
I played around with a round tray that accepted a flat spiral of 2-3 wraps to use as a ringlight a couple months ago. Didn't perform anywhere near like a ringlight with front-facing LEDs does sadly, and I didn't consider printing other shapes for decoration. Now I kinda want to try to vector out a Dark Souls bonfire to hang on the wall with addressable RGBs doing the ember effect.
These look so awesome!
Thanks Clive, another great project. The soft radii looks very 70's smutty night club, 😎😆
(or sci-fi if you prefer)
I will make those as gifts for friends , thank you for sharing, they look great
To clean the oxidized copper pads I tend to use a fiberglass pen. Works wonders!
My mum had one of those for cleaning tracks when I was a kid, irritating as hell when you get a strand in the finger.
We use it a lot on PCB's to clean copper or golden pads etc but you have to clean with another brush the shards, a pain in the ass to remove if you get them in your hands. But it's the best for this job
@@leosedf I imagine they can be a pain in the lungs as well.
@@ronnetgrazer362 no not really, it doesn't stay suspended and immediately falls on the table, in fact most of the times you get it in your hands is from tables or surfaces. I am using it for over 15 years.
@@leosedf how about some brasso? 😅
Thank you for showing us your big pink ring. Very nice.
Very good advice on 3d printing. Even a cheap printer like the Ender 3, needs little adjustment at first.
Looks like it's great to do DIY "Neon" signs that look close enough to neon that most people would think it were real.
It's getting hard to tell the difference in signage. Often the only clue is the greater detail and sharper joins.
Oh nice love that kind of light Clive they looks nice
This looks so 80’s, love it.
Very cool...thanks Clive!
Very nice project! You probably have a lot of envious neon tube benders out here. And you don't have to be concerned about getting zapped by 12 kV AC! Thanks, Clive.
These are some great starter scripts for learning OpenSCAD, too. It might be worth also posting them somewhere that can do indentation correctly, like pastebin or a page on your own site.
Anybody who doesn't have a 3D printer and can't afford it (in terms of money, space or time), check your local library. Many of them have one and using it is either free or very cheap.
Barring that, make friends with a local nerd. Almost everybody with a 3D printer will be excited to share the hobby with you.
Cadhub has been my goto for sharing openscad stuff
@@radnukespeoplesminds Thanks for the tip; CadQuery is new to me and solves one problem I've had with OpenSCAD for ages - no easy chamfer or fillet operations.
Maker/hackerspaces are also an excellent option for access to the kit - and the chances are there will always be someone else around with a decent amount of knowledge to troubleshoot due to the nature of the space!
Toronto Public Library has 3D printers at eight different locations and they charge $0.10 per gram of filament... The only problem is I have no idea if that is a reasonable price or not!
@@booblla A 1kg roll of filament is typically around $20-$25, so like $0.02 per gram. But that's of no use to you if you don't have a printer. On the flip side, one of these neon shapes is only going to be a few grams, depending on slicing options, so 50 cents or a dollar per print is nothing compared to the cost of buying your own printer.
I was already learning 3D modeling and tempted to buy a printer. This looks like a fun project for when I finally do get one!
You can play with the scripts for instant 3D visual satisfaction in openscad.
Totally agree about the 'don't watch youtube videos' when looking to buy a 3D printer. I've had some from the totally build it yourself Anet A8 to fully assembled ones, and the best way is to just get any and start playing about. Then when you have a clue, get one that matches what you really want to print (size, materials, etc) and buy a non-cheapass model that suits.
Brilliant! An excuse to get a 3d printer and inspiration for Christmas decorations for my front fence!
Hi BigClive, thanks for the video and have a great Saturday.
Hi Clive I love your channel, it's always very considerate when you say watch your eyes when turning the lights back on but I'd like to challenge you, see if you can make a very smooth dimmer function so when you turn the light back on it comes up slowly on its own automatically. Cheers from Tennessee :-)
Not totally suited to my existing lighting.
I don't have a 3D printer but I'm working on something similiar using a narrow chisel to create an inlay in a piece of wood. Still at the design stage as it's not as simple a shape and practicing carving MDF rather than mess up a piece of mahogany but it's a work in progress. Taking a hiatus as my workshop is the big one with the open roof and the heating is still on the fritz at this time of year 😁
I made a Cyberpunk 2077 neon sign using this technique a while ago. It's a super nice effect. I don't even play that game, but the logo is cool
Once cosplay finds this its gonna be awesome
Makes me think of Simon Whistler's unfortunately dead neon logo in his studio-office, that could be replicated with these LED strips, that or the neon sign itself repaired, but he's out in Prague so not the simplest place to get to for someone to repair it... :P
Thank you so much, what a great project, will be trying it out,. Cheers Mate
I use OpenSCAD to design layouts for synthesizer front panels. Great once you setup your basic shapes.
An excellent video. I’d like to make a sign with my house number on as a first project. I’ve had a 3D printer a while but always felt a bit overwhelmed and never used it much. Must make a determined effort. Thank you!
At least you have used yours. Bought one 18 months ago. It’s still in its box.
Tried several times to purchase filament only to have orders cancelled with excuses like bad production quality control or the filament is damp.
So must order some filament. Lol
@@patomahony9747 hi Pat. I had it bought as a birthday present. Managed to assemble it and do a couple of things I downloaded but that’s as far as I got. Need to learn the design package but takes time! My nephew has one and does great things! I don’t think the filament supply is such an issue now. Good luck!
I find that this stuff works well enough even at 9v, with a much softer glow that I think is still suitable for indoor signage. Useful because you can run them from a decent 9v power supply if you can find one, rather than trying to run from 12v and tone it down with extra components.
Reminds me of the Olympic rings... that would make a great project to build.
Yay! More Clive scripts to play with! Spot on with the 3D printer suggestions. When one is ready to progress to the next level, some of the best tips I've got were from Thomas Sandlander & Naomi "SexyCyborg" Wu.
Brilliant project.
A couple of things:
- My 3D printer "just works", only fail so far has been the filament breaking, had a close call from it getting a minor jam (easy to fix)
- Wouldn't it be possible to create a script that has n sides? Just use some geometry for it?
The protective coating you speak of at times, would be a really thin layer of conformal coating (at least I think) or it could be a thin coat of varnish... usually burnable with a soldering iron and some flux.
9:24 it’s called scoring I believe. Good advice on attaching to the middle 💯
I love real neon and I'm really impressed with these modern diffusers for LED strips. They work really well. Very beautiful in their own right.
Great job work on light
These are awesome scripts - BigClive is the OpenSCAD wizard. Very nice indeed. And that LED strip material is quite impressive too. It would be great if somehow it would be possible to make letters and symbols as well with OpenSCAD.
As a long time coder I have learned to be excessively clear in names and comments and got instantly upset when BC mixed up different meanings for height and width (those words are a pair, like x and y).
That's because I was making it up as I went along and the concept changed.
Wow they came out well. I really must have a crack at OpenScad
Seriously, Clive, you don't need to warn people when "the light is coming back". We're watching screens, there's only so much brightness they can produce. I can assure you we can all safety stare straight into the Sun via these screens and no harm will be done. :-)
Clive, you need to check out and maybe do a review on knife and anvil type cutters, or multi cutters as they are sometimes called. They make cutting things like your neon leds and tubing straight and square as easy as pie.
Hello, great idea and I like it very much. I used to have a neon treble clef, but it broke when I moved. Maybe it could be replaced with this neon strip.
God I love this channel
would be cool to see a collection of various bends that could be assembled into various shapes, words even
anyways, coolbeans
Ooh, a horizontal video. You scared me there for a moment with that atrocity. Keep up the good videos! (not the bad ones)
Very nice indeed 👍
THATS IT, Im getting a 3d printer, ty for the inspo
I want to play with LED neon to make some designs. I just wish they would make "tubes" of it that were rigid that you could bend with a heat gun instead of having to make frames for it. I suppose one could use the plastic tubing similar to what the hardline watercooling guys use but it would be a bit of a pain for something that seems so obvious.
Creative!
I like to use a scotch brite pad or red pencil eraser to clean contacts to solder. I tend to do too much damage with a knife.
Why don't you add a bit of flux? Have you tried adding a bit of flexible glue or RTV where the wires come out for stain relief?
I like your idea. Thanks for scripts then I will use for 3d printer.. Good job!!!. This awesome make for Playstation that NICE!!!.
Thank.. I really enjoyed that!!!!
As someone who is absolutely fascinated with this, but I know very little of electronics, what are the power supplies you recommend for a den setting? Essentially building and mounting this type of stuff on a wall. Resources or educational material would be amazing!
Brilliant :-)
Excellent project: Simple 3D print, yet so effective!
I only wish you could put the scripts in a Github Gist, so people can comment and improve on the them(and the indentation wouldn't get lost).
I like keeping them with the video. People can also add mods in the comments.
Perfect timing, I was thinking of doing something neonish for a pride display.
If you shop around you can find the full suite of colours including the elusive purple.
If someone wanted to do a bigger or sturdier design, I've made something similar for a local café using 1/4" aluminium channel (they can usually be found at a fair price in hardware stores, often in the windows/glass doors department). You could also find slightly larger channels to just cover the straight lines of your 3D printed design. And the aluminum adds a bit of heat dissipation (it's true that they can get quite warm at full intensity 24/7! I'm still curious about how long these light strip will last...).