Change both the electrical ignition switch and lock cylinder . Once you get the steering wheel off with the puller there is a special tool that threads on the shaft to press the plate down and remove a snap ring , then take 2 screws out holding the turn signal lever and switch wire harness and under there is one Philip head screw holding the lock cylinder in and bam reverse all the directions and you’re done . Keep up the good content bro . One of these days my project Sonoma will be done and I’m heading to Mississippi to one of y’all car shows . I’m in Baker and don’t hardly take road trips but will for y’all one day
Try ignition control module under distributor. But my box had this thing where the column shifter had to be in park, like couple bumps making sure it was in park. And the the column tilt had to be certain angle, yeah all this shxt sound crazy but bro I’m telling you it worked. Had me and my son stuck at barbershop til I realized I moved all that during digi dash swap and just hopped in. Try it and see
Wiggle your main hornist plug at firewall from your computer driver side check wires run to starter had the same problem on an 87C 10 Chevy truck it was a bad wire to the starter wouldn’t make connection all the time ? Just something to check .
Idle air control valve is why it's idling weird not the Throttle position sensor! Clean up them amp wires in dat trunk any of dem wires ever touch u will have a 🔥🔥use sum Tesa tape a.k.a. harness tape on any wire exposure Too nice of a Box Chevy to catch on 🔥
Check the gas pump in the tank. It could be clogged are bad. Are have dirt in the tank. That's the first thing I'll redo. A new gas sending unit for the tank.
If it runs fine until hot, the starter silniod is bad. Due to the location (next to the exhaust) it will not start until cooled down. Solution for me was to purchase a smaller high impact/velocity starter. This allowed the starter to stay cooler. I too changed every switch on the column. The starter worked for me plus I plan to install headers,so it's a win win.. hope this helps.
Might just have to adjust your ignition switch. Also check your ignition tumbler. It’s a plastic gear behind the key switch lock cylinder. You’ll have to pull steering wheel to look at this. Sometimes that is off alignment or the gears fail and won’t allow your rod to be pushed down all the way to meet full contact on ignition when you turn the key. Changing the lock cylinder is not hard if you need to do it.
Honestly it could be a variety of things from the ignition module to the neutral safety switch, the actual ignition switch itself or a bad lock cylinder. If you have to play the guessing game I would start with the cheap parts first.
I had something similar happen to me come to find out that my shifter module was bad my car thought it was out of gear either reverse or drive it had nothing to do with the ignition switch
305/350 is basically the same engine jus different heads…a stock 305 usually will have a vent tube running from the passenger side valve cover to the air breather
Is it a tilt steering wheel if so, remove the steering wheel and the plates under the steering wheel and tighten the nut on the key switch. I'm thinking it's the gas system because if it was electric it wouldn't ding
I'll take the speakers out and see if it's to heavy or pulling too much power. If you have big speakers. And it's all power, the alternator is straining to cover the speakers and all the power systems. But I'll redo the gas system, then either double up with alternators, are get one alternator that's rated 3 times higher than the one your running with now.
Ike the ignition switch is bad and check the wiring running to the battery in the trunk because running two batteries in the Chevy's in that year they are known to short out but your problem is in your ignition system
I could be wrong but I thought 305 on a chevy was a 6 spark plugs 350 was the 8 spark plugs, and the 305 speed went to 90 mph, 350 I think went to 120 mph.
Hey Ike you gotta explain your not it's a difference in the information switch and lock cylinder and that looks like the ignition switch cuz it's not powering up the car
Change both the electrical ignition switch and lock cylinder . Once you get the steering wheel off with the puller there is a special tool that threads on the shaft to press the plate down and remove a snap ring , then take 2 screws out holding the turn signal lever and switch wire harness and under there is one Philip head screw holding the lock cylinder in and bam reverse all the directions and you’re done . Keep up the good content bro . One of these days my project Sonoma will be done and I’m heading to Mississippi to one of y’all car shows . I’m in Baker and don’t hardly take road trips but will for y’all one day
Man did the same thing when I had a box. It ended up being the fuel pump
Mine to I had a 79 box you had too keep it full. But once it got to half tank because of the stand it would bottom out and knock the fuel pump out.
I replaced the ignition switch on mine on the 79 Landau didn't have any more issues after that
I’d change the ignition switch. That fixed the same issue I had with my 86 Cutlass a few years ago.
Bring your own ignition power wire to the distributor to make sure it has juice cuz nothing stops a small block Chevy 💪
Facts. My ignition control module went out the other week and didn’t have my car started easy $60 fix. Small blocks never die
@@majorfranklin334 forsure 😂😂 💪
40 year under the hood stops everything thing.😢
@@kourtneytannis4319 😂😂😂😂
Try ignition control module under distributor. But my box had this thing where the column shifter had to be in park, like couple bumps making sure it was in park. And the the column tilt had to be certain angle, yeah all this shxt sound crazy but bro I’m telling you it worked. Had me and my son stuck at barbershop til I realized I moved all that during digi dash swap and just hopped in. Try it and see
Wiggle your main hornist plug at firewall from your computer driver side check wires run to starter had the same problem on an 87C 10 Chevy truck it was a bad wire to the starter wouldn’t make connection all the time ? Just something to check .
Idle air control valve is why it's idling weird not the Throttle position sensor! Clean up them amp wires in dat trunk any of dem wires ever touch u will have a 🔥🔥use sum Tesa tape a.k.a. harness tape on any wire exposure Too nice of a Box Chevy to catch on 🔥
Check the gas pump in the tank. It could be clogged are bad. Are have dirt in the tank. That's the first thing I'll redo. A new gas sending unit for the tank.
Ignition igniter getting hot cuz
If it runs fine until hot, the starter silniod is bad. Due to the location (next to the exhaust) it will not start until cooled down. Solution for me was to purchase a smaller high impact/velocity starter. This allowed the starter to stay cooler. I too changed every switch on the column. The starter worked for me plus I plan to install headers,so it's a win win.. hope this helps.
Might just have to adjust your ignition switch. Also check your ignition tumbler. It’s a plastic gear behind the key switch lock cylinder. You’ll have to pull steering wheel to look at this. Sometimes that is off alignment or the gears fail and won’t allow your rod to be pushed down all the way to meet full contact on ignition when you turn the key.
Changing the lock cylinder is not hard if you need to do it.
If it idle up and down when running it's probably the idle air control valve...
Check the sensor on the steering column I forgot the name of same thang happen to my box it sit kinda of at the bottom of the column
Check your distributor if one those wires are loose it do that too
Honestly it could be a variety of things from the ignition module to the neutral safety switch, the actual ignition switch itself or a bad lock cylinder. If you have to play the guessing game I would start with the cheap parts first.
Check yo steering column shake it in that junt gone fye up but shake while u crank it I had the same problem
I had something similar happen to me come to find out that my shifter module was bad my car thought it was out of gear either reverse or drive it had nothing to do with the ignition switch
Change ignition switch on the steering column under the dash and the key lock cylinder
I would just change the carb, intake manifold, and distributor all together
305/350 is basically the same engine jus different heads…a stock 305 usually will have a vent tube running from the passenger side valve cover to the air breather
Is it a tilt steering wheel if so, remove the steering wheel and the plates under the steering wheel and tighten the nut on the key switch. I'm thinking it's the gas system because if it was electric it wouldn't ding
I'll take the speakers out and see if it's to heavy or pulling too much power. If you have big speakers. And it's all power, the alternator is straining to cover the speakers and all the power systems. But I'll redo the gas system, then either double up with alternators, are get one alternator that's rated 3 times higher than the one your running with now.
Try the ignition switch sometimes they don’t operate that much
Need some timing it's not cranking up a dime..but it seems like it needs ignition switch...
Ike the ignition switch is bad and check the wiring running to the battery in the trunk because running two batteries in the Chevy's in that year they are known to short out but your problem is in your ignition system
That switch ajust up and down. That rod is not pushing the switch enough.
Change the ignition control module it's under the distributor cap
Check shifter too, may not be all the way in park.
I would change the ignition switch
Rotor Button and Cap and Ignition Module
I could be wrong but I thought 305 on a chevy was a 6 spark plugs 350 was the 8 spark plugs, and the 305 speed went to 90 mph, 350 I think went to 120 mph.
Ignition switch then lock cylinder
Check the distributor cap, might be loose or dirty.
Happy Holidays to you & your family, you should start carrying a Battery Jumper with you so that you don't Damage your Truck or Car's Computer System.
Ignition control module
If the key cylinder is original it's worn out most should be replaced every 10 years.
I'm thinking it's the module under the rotor on the distributor...
Hey Ike you gotta explain your not it's a difference in the information switch and lock cylinder and that looks like the ignition switch cuz it's not powering up the car
Check that key switch to sometime yr key switch will brake from that rod to turn yr car on
Use the vin # to get the engine size
#GPG 🤙🏾 Ike in the Chevy wit the good content let's goooooooooooooo
I think it's the fuel pump
Take a screw driver and go under the car and bump the starter if it cranks them the problem is in the steering column.
Maybe neutral safety switch
I know u going to figure it out small problem to a Giant check all your grounds 💪 keep it coming
Check timing too
Call dude u bought it from and ask if he was having them problems when he had it
Look at Idle control sensor
I would start by bumping the starter
Sounds like it’s vapor lock
A I'm going through that shit to
Cuz 350 oil dip sticc is on the left 305 oil dip sticc is on the right...
Check battery cable and make sure it’s not acid build up ike
Your steering wheel is tilted to high lower it down
What up bro salute 💪
Engine control module
Did try the crank sensor
No
Let us know what was wrong with it when you fix it. I know you going to find out.
Try the alternator, it could be faulty
Hello the Ikes.
Ignition switch
The one thing u didn’t do was move the steering up an down an turn it it porbably would have crank up
Crank sensor
Change the fuel pump
Talk to boxchevy bout the box
Lsx swap it and call it a day
It probably yur speaker battery
Change key lock
5.0 liter is a 305 5.7 should be 350
305
Canker sensor
What are u doing bro remove that trash engine and get a 2009 ls3 Corvette engine and 4l80 your embarrassing us. 😢
I know how to fix it. Dump that 305, drop in a Ls budget build to get rollin. Let someone else do magic on that motor😂
I swea bro 😂😂😂
Change the distributor thats your problem
Dont just change the cap and rotor its a cam position sensor in the distributor and its probably rusty from moisture
Change the starter too