If you drill a hole with a normal drill bit touching the inside edge of kerf of your hole saw, you can drill through really thick wood fairly easily. It gives the saw dust a way out
Thanks! This is what I was hoping to find down here, got 26 or so deck light holes to cut in 2 by 4's, got sick of it after the first 6. Chip evacuation seems to be my biggest problem, the teeth just gum up. Got a slightly better (way more expensive) hole saw, but same problem. I was eyeing one of those open tooth ones, as I figure that might help in really deep holes, but now I'll try this instead. Just have to muster some patience first...
@@wegtennis8740 - You don't. So, imagine the circle you're going to cut (or, cut 1/16" deep just to mark it for you). Then throw in a 1/4" ordinary drillbit, and line it up so that the outer edge of it is in line with the holesaw circle. You just punch 1 or 3 holes right through the material with that 1/4" bit, then switch back to the holesaw. This way, the bottom end of the cut doesn't fill up with sawdust and burn up the teeth or make you start/stop/start/stop to clear the dust. The dust will get dragged around the circumference of the circle, and fall through the material where you had the holes.
If your having trouble holding the drill bit in place,you can whole saw out a template ( like in the video 1:26)-only the size of the inside diameter and use this as a perimeter guide with the small drill bit,also if spin the drill bit in reverse when you start drilling the hole, it makes a nice controlled countersink to keep the bit in position when your drill
😅 ❤ We used to say the same exact thing (well almost) about our resident genius back on the little tourist railway I worked on as a youth! We said, " Boy, if you only knew HALF of the the stuff Mac has FORGOTTEN, you'd be a genius too!"
Couple of tips I’ve learned as an electrician. When using a hole saw on metal it’s easy to bend or snap your pilot bit when the pilot bit goes through and the hole saw slams down into the metal. The force can cause the teeth on the hole saw to grab, twist, and deform or break your pilot bit. To mitigate this, I always drill my pilot first with the holesaw off, then put the holesaw back on once the pilot is drilled. Second tip is for drilling new knockouts in existing panels/junction boxes. The fear is that when your hole saw blows through, you can nick a live wire (or several) and that’s a bad time. What I do is wrap a butt ton of electrical tape around the circumference of the outside of the hole saw. Right on the edge near the teeth making a kind of stop. That way when the saw blows through, the tape wrapped around it (being larger in circumference than the hole saw, and thus the hole just drilled) stops it.
What's the difference whether you predrill the pilot hole or not? If you pre dill and then mount the saw, when you enter the predrilled hole you are in exactly the same situation either way. The only advantage I can think of is if you are bearing down on the pilot bit with the HS mounted and you don't anticipate when it breaks through, then the HS slams into the work. If that's your problem you might want to go ahead and take the time to do the hole in 2 operations. Or lengthen your pilot bit. lol
@OddJobFix You got it right. There’s plenty of times at work where I’m drilling knock outs and the bit I have is not necessarily the sharpest in the world. And the boss is too cheap to buy new ones. So a lot of pressure applied, and when it finally pops you gotta let that pressure go in a fraction of a second or the hole saw will slam into the work, bite, and twist. Lots of times that will bend the pilot or break it. Plus it’s easier to see where you’re drilling the pilot with the hole saw detached, wanna drill on center so my pipes don’t look like dog water.
@OddJobFix if you pre drill the pilot hole, you can better control how and when the hole saw makes contact and lessens the chances of snapping a bit or busting your self up. Also placing a fender washer just bigger than the hole saw on the pilot bit between the saw and the work does the same trick.
You can also "stack" hole saws on most arbors! Put the bigger hole saw on first, then thread the smaller hole saw on after. I still haven't figured out to drill a smaller hole, after drilling to big a hole though....
you can also take the smaller cut hole and simply place it over the drill bit of the bigger size. you have to pull that piece of wood out of the bit anyways, why not put it back to work?
for drilling a smaller hole after you drilled too big of hole, use the repair trick shown, glue in the plug, after the glue is set come back and drill the smaller hole.
I have a years-old piece of pine in my garage (my wife claims I am a pack-rat, I simply reply "I might need that sometime") that has a hole in it made for solution 1 in this video. And the "drill from both sides" tip is one that everyone should know, even for non OSB projects. It eliminates blow out. (Well, reduces it at least. Not an issue with OSB in most cases.) In any event, I am in the process of redoing a bathroom on my daughter's house, and today is the day where I have to use a hole saw to fit drywall and cement board over plumbing fixtures in a bathroom, so bravo for reminding me of so of these techniques! No metal cutting for me today, though!
Great presentation, Wadsworth! Electrician here. Retired now. Removing the holesaw from the arbor. You got what you got. You are not spending another dime. The nearest supplier is an hour away. Time is money. You are not leaving that job by golly! You need only two things you probably already have. A washer with the same size hole as the drill bit. A very little bit of anti seize. Apply the anti seize to both sides of the washer. Now, place said washer over the bit, resting on the arbor. Now attach the holesaw. Wah-la! Now you have a holesaw that can be removed rather easily compared to before. Remember, anti seize is friendly. It likes to go and make itself known to everyone and everything. So make sure you wash it off in earnest. Cause the next thing you know, it will be all over you. All over your vehicle. Your wife's new table cloth and the kitchen drapes she is so proud of.
Hahahaha , man you are right about it being friendly , I never heard it stated that way ! I always told people to keep the cap on 'cause it sneaks out and gets on everything before you even know it !!😊
"Beat you to death with the part of your body it riped off", truer words have never been spoken when dealing with a Milwaukee Hole Hawg and a large bit or any sized bit for that matter! I remember twisting myself into a shape that a contortionist would be jealous of with one of those. Oh the memories, priceless.
@@lorengordon3228 I have a 2 foot pipe for mine when I need to run low speed , always brace it against something , it will just break the trigger handle right off , so be careful . I got hit really hard once almost knocked me out and gave me a black eye . Hole hawgs are extremely powerful drills . They set the original standard for plumbers and electricians , and it took many years for any of the other power tool companies to come close ! Watch out , it WILL break your wrist !!
Great video, lots of excellent tips. Two more: 1. Use cutting oil when cutting a hole in metal, to make your hole saw last a lot longer. Or at least spray it with water. I would even spit on it if I had neither. 2. Before cutting, think about what would happen if the hole saw locked up. Hold your drill in such a way that it won't do harm. Typically that means holding it in such a way that it slips out of your hand (rather than smashing your hand or twisting it). And so it doesn't smack you in the face. Or toss you off your ladder. Or ... etc. These were lessons taught to us apprentices back in the 80's, when using the Hole Hawgs.
Thank you for editing the noise my friend. Nobody is ever that thoughtful and well done. You left just enough noise to relay the ozone to our nose and not so much we wake the dragon in the next room.
If I might suggest; when drilling (sawing too) metal, the use of cutting oil (or sometimes the closest oil even WD) helps the cut and also extends the life of the pilot bit, and hole saw teeth. There are wax stick type of cutting lubricants meant for circular blade, kind of like a giant lip balm. Of course this is for cutting metal, not wood or OSB. Hole saws are expensive and extending the life is a good thing. Love the videos, long time subscriber. Have a great New Year.
I found regular household olive oil for cooking to work well for metal tapping/drilling. Kinda smells nice too. One of those use what you have on hand moments that stuck.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! The template for drilling a larger diameter hole atop an existing one...wish I'd known a year ago, poor ol' door didn't survive😂 Lessons learned by way of the experienced are oftentimes invaluable. So many tricks of the trade that one will never find in a guide or manual.
Grinders TOO!! I’ve had a grinder in my paws since I could lift one up. When I was a kid, like many little swines, I wanted to be all grown up. Anyway my dad’s friend was helping him with the car and he said something along the lines of “Now, a grinder is a proper man’s tool!”. He wasn’t showing off, just meaning that they can be dangerous, more than anything. Naturally, being one of the many kids that wanted to be an adult at the age of six, I just HAD to have a go. Eventually (at 8 I think) they let me have a go under very well-supervised conditions and I obviously loved it and have never looked back. After 30 years of using a grinder I had my first ‘accident’ that could have been a good deal worse. I wasn’t being complacent, it as only a 4.5” (115mm) grinder but I was using the cup type of wire wheel to polish up some catwalk brackets of a huge piling rig, easily over 12lbs each. The wire cup found a hole, and threw the bracket a good few feet to my left side while Newton’s Third Law Of Motion got to work throwing both me to the right and the grinder (still grinding) into my right leg. Thankfully I had two pairs of jeans and my overalls on at the time so no harm was done. I looked down at the grinder at the time thinking it strange that the wires were glowing orange. That just could not be right for the amount of time/pressure/mass of the wire/cooling from the air etc etc - it turns out that it’d taken a good chunk out of my insanely orange 🍊 overalls :) :) It can happen at any time to any of us, no matter the experience we have or how good we think we are!! Just be mindful of that and protect yourself while using such things. It amazed me just how much power one of these tiny grinders has under its belt. Anyway, I apologise for the essay but if it serves to prevent one person losing a chunk of right leg/eyeball/jugular vein etc, then it was very much worth my time writing it. Be safe folks, because unfortunately, it CAN happen to YOU. Brilliant video Scott, as ever. Some of these top tips were really tip top (all, actually - but though some made me grumpy with myself for not having thought of them myself - easy when you know how, eh?). Anyway, apologies again for cluttering up your otherwise pristine comment section. :) :)
"...it's going to beat you to death with the part of the body that it tears off!" Laughed my a** off on that one. So very true. Thanks for this tutorial Scott. Awesome information!
The saw guide is a really good idea. I’ve been using my old Greenlee set for over forty years and I never realized the bits came in 1/8 increments. Love the reverse carpet method as well. I have used that technique on plastics but never carpet.
I have tried EVERY type of hole saw as an electrician. I ABSOLUTELY without doubt deliberately abused a Diablo hole saw. It was the last inch and an eighth the supply house had. I cut over 80 holes in cement board and thick gauge aluminum framing studs. Without question THE BEST hole saws and arbors available today. I LOVE those things
You could combine the fist two tips; and then your patch won't have a hole in the middle from the pilot drill: drill a template (of the larger size, with sacrificial wood). then remove the pilot drill bit, and drill the next hole in the material for the patch, using the template.
Cutting wax works great on hole saws ! if you need to drill into carpet - use a sharp Razor blade and cut a few lines N/S and E/W across the size of the hole before drilling ! and Always use a drill bit to pre drill the starter hole for your hole saw - its no fun to just start drilling and have the holesaws drill bit break off
This is great information. Can't tell you how many times I've drilled and undersized hole with a hole saw and didn't know what to do next other than scream!!! Great info, only wish I had your video ten years ago. Your instructional videos with various tools are most helpful. I imagine the hard drive in your brain must need to be resized every decade with all the information you store!! Thanks.
To cut cleaner holes, get the pilot bit started and then go full speed and light pressure while the blade teeth scour the surface, then continue at any speed with moderate pressure. If the entire hole will be later covered, go ahead and "blast through" at any speed & feed. I always enjoy your videos, Mr. Wadsworth. You are the "Quintessential Craftsman"!
I don't know if anyone else mentioned it, but removing the pilot bit and arbor, then using that as a tool to push the plug out of the holesaw from the rear, that is the method I use.
Great tips and tricks. I made the switch to Rotabroach cutters instead of hole saws for making holes in metal. It's made a huge difference in the accuracy of the holes and the longevity of the tools.
When using these to punch through vinyl siding and the barrier paper , using them in reverse is a must to prevent damage to it. Once through, then you can go forward into the wood.
That guide trick and the ability to make Dutch style plugs is really has been really useful in home renovation. Especially when base board heating has been removed. The ability to make a cleanish void, then plug the 100 year old wood floor with the same material from cutting a plug from a closet or somewhere inconspicuous, if not just buying a plank of whatever material it is and getting a plug from that before the sand and finish the floor really saves the day.
Great video. I like that you keep the drill close to your body. I think that’s important especially with big hole saw bit and a powerful piece of equipment. Don’t hold it out in front of you, if it catches you’ll have less control over stopping it from spinning and hurting yourself.
A lot of good tips as usual Scott! Something worth looking at is the Spyder Rapid Core Ejection arbor system. They are not cheap, but time is money on the job.
This video makes me think of a former boss I had, working as an electrician. He didn't think you ever needed to pull a hole saw out to clean/ clear the teeth. As if the teeth never get gummed up when using a hole saw going through pine studs, joists, etc... Thinking about that made me remember another former boss who wanted his hacksaw blades installed so that they cut on the pull stroke instead of the push stroke.
Good video. 25 year electrician here. Lots of hole saw drilling through double plates etc. 20 years on and one of our new guys saw me struggling with a stuck plug. He taught me to clear the blade repeatedly as I go (in/out, up/down depending on the direction your drilling) plugs come out way smoother! Sometimes they practically fall out. Reverse trick works great on vinyl siding and soffiting too. Only thing I disagree with, please unplug your drill before removing plugs, bump the trigger and the driver could wind up in your buddy across the room.
The Spyder bits with a few large carbide teeth are great. Even for brick and block. The larger kerf and design of the arbor make clean out super easy. Use it almost daily in HVAC installs.
The Milwaukee HoleHawg and their SelfFeed bits are beasts. As a former plumber, I was drilling with a 4-5/8 inch bit through a bottom plate. When I pulled the bit out of the completed hole, I discovered that I had split a 16d nail down its length. The HoleHawg did not once complain nor was the bit significantly dulled. Used them both for years afterwards.
The Bosch arbor system is the best IMO, when you pull the sleeve to partially eject the holesaw and material plug you can use it at a slight angle to knock out the material plug by hand, no tools required. You can also eject the pilot drill using the sleeve, when I use a guide template as you do I always remove the pilot drill, then you have a full plug without centre hole if you want to refit it using expanded foam. Oscillating the cordless drill also gives more clearance so the holesaw will not bind.
A missing concept from the video: *the bigger the hole saw, the slower the speed* . Think about the edge speed of the blade. The edge of a 1" drillbit moves 4x as fast as the edge of a 1/4" drill bit when spun at the same RPM. And the edge of a 4" holesaw moves 16x as fast as the edge of a 1/4" drillbit. Through a given material, you want the cutting speed that the cutting tooth drags, to be roughly consistent. So, if you double the diameter, you should be halving your speed. Otherwise you're going to smoke your saw, ruin the temper, and melt the teeth off. At these extreme cutting speeds, this even matters for wood, where, normally you'd only have to consider this stuff when cutting metal.
About the Diabolo attachment system, that looks exactly like the one Bosch uses for their holesaws. They have a lot of different "cutting" bits even ones for concrete and tile, two different hex shank options, and even adapter bits for other brands that use threads, so you can mount your old/specialized holesaws onto the Bosch assembly.
Many times I'll start off scoring the surface by putting the drill in reverse. Once I have a slight groove I'll flip over to forward and carry on as normal to prevent initial wandering. My Milwaukee hammer drill has an anti-binding lock out circuit that's saved me many times on larger holes!
I have used that exact same trick. Sometimes I use a piece of sheet metal for the template. For the tearout your trick works or screw backing to the back side or just use high rpm and less push for a slower cut at the end.
Scott, you should look into Spyder hole saws. With the quick plug ejection. Just push the button and slide the bit back and the plug pops out, no more prying! Rapid Core Eject they call it. Big step forward in hole saw technology
As an electrician, we always wrapped a solid 12 wire around the arbors thread to prevent the overtightening. If it does bind, install into a drill chuck,and turn with channellocks.
Spyder makes a nifty hole saw holder that slides back and forth on a longer shaft. This is not only useful for ejecting plugs, it allows holes to be sawed at an angle to the surface that a regular bit won't. Check it out, I think you'll love it.
Nice. I'm usually lazy and use the hole saw I just used, doubled on the same arbor as a pilot with a fender washer or two if possible to give it a little riser.
Before I went to Hilti, I used to take all the belt clips off. Had a small paddle bit hit a screw and the entire drill motor flipped around. No problem letting go in time, but the clip swung around a took a giant chunk out of my wrist. Even these new 18V brushless tools can easily do that to you.
I knocked myself out using a 1" hole saw in an aluminum plate, close quarters under a swim platform on a boat. My hand on the control handle spun with the tool and played sweet chin music.
The spyder hole saw system is a good mix of the milwaukee pin system and the Diablo quick release by far my favorite system since their arbor fits most hole saws
I use the "blowout" prevention techique shown here with spade bits as well. Drill from one side until the bit point penetrates and then flip the board over and complete the hole from the other side. And the other way to avoid "blowout" is to place the board on a piece if scrap and drill through into the scrap.
This segment in hole saws and the one on how to use ratchet straps are so useful! Everybody knows how to drill holes and use a ratchet strap except almost everybody - until they pull up the Essential Craftsman and watch him do it right. One last tip - hole saw teeth are sharp! Ask me how I know. On second thought, don’t ask!
A principle that I learned while playing pool definitely applies in regard to drills like the Hole Hog or other ol' wrist breaker; using just enough power to do what you need to do often leaves you in a much better position afterwards.
Check out the milwaukee big hawg set. Huge carbide teeth, comes with a diamond file to sharpen the bits, slip shank with pins, and the openings to get the cores out are massive which makes the core come out super easy.
There is a lack of decent side handles provided with many new drills. These are still a very good way of reducing some of the kick back risk. The ones provided though are often not secure enough for my liking. The older style with threaded attachment are the best in my opinion.
Alternate method: @0:28 reinstall the too-small donut on the end of the larger hole saw's arbor. It keeps the tool centered on the original hole until it bites into the wood.
the new style hole saws with carbide teeth (the big carbide cutters, and not an annular cutter) are amazing for cutting metal. I had a brand new Lenox bi metal hole saw and it lost all its teeth trying to barely cut some 22ga stainless steel. I got a cheap carbide hole saw on amazon for less than the Lenox and it cuts stainless easily
Use an impact driver to loosen stuck holesaw in reverse or use a drill to drive in a screw from the front into the wood between the pilot hole and saw edge, comes straight out.
Spider has a set with quick release like you showed at the end but on a hex drive. They are the best way to remove a plug by far. Even subfloor and a 2x jammed all the way in slides out on the pilot bit!
If you drill a hole with a normal drill bit touching the inside edge of kerf of your hole saw, you can drill through really thick wood fairly easily. It gives the saw dust a way out
Comment of the Day. This is the top tip lacking in the video by far.
Thanks!
This is what I was hoping to find down here, got 26 or so deck light holes to cut in 2 by 4's, got sick of it after the first 6.
Chip evacuation seems to be my biggest problem, the teeth just gum up. Got a slightly better (way more expensive) hole saw, but same problem.
I was eyeing one of those open tooth ones, as I figure that might help in really deep holes, but now I'll try this instead.
Just have to muster some patience first...
Can you say more about how you keep that bit in place?
@@wegtennis8740 - You don't. So, imagine the circle you're going to cut (or, cut 1/16" deep just to mark it for you). Then throw in a 1/4" ordinary drillbit, and line it up so that the outer edge of it is in line with the holesaw circle. You just punch 1 or 3 holes right through the material with that 1/4" bit, then switch back to the holesaw. This way, the bottom end of the cut doesn't fill up with sawdust and burn up the teeth or make you start/stop/start/stop to clear the dust. The dust will get dragged around the circumference of the circle, and fall through the material where you had the holes.
If your having trouble holding the drill bit in place,you can whole saw out a template ( like in the video 1:26)-only the size of the inside diameter and use this as a perimeter guide with the small drill bit,also if spin the drill bit in reverse when you start drilling the hole, it makes a nice controlled countersink to keep the bit in position when your drill
This guy has forgotten more than I could ever learn. Thanks EC for being such a great teacher to us less experienced and knowledgeable.
😅 ❤ We used to say the same exact thing (well almost) about our resident genius back on the little tourist railway I worked on as a youth!
We said, " Boy, if you only knew HALF of the the stuff Mac has FORGOTTEN, you'd be a genius too!"
Couple of tips I’ve learned as an electrician. When using a hole saw on metal it’s easy to bend or snap your pilot bit when the pilot bit goes through and the hole saw slams down into the metal. The force can cause the teeth on the hole saw to grab, twist, and deform or break your pilot bit. To mitigate this, I always drill my pilot first with the holesaw off, then put the holesaw back on once the pilot is drilled. Second tip is for drilling new knockouts in existing panels/junction boxes. The fear is that when your hole saw blows through, you can nick a live wire (or several) and that’s a bad time. What I do is wrap a butt ton of electrical tape around the circumference of the outside of the hole saw. Right on the edge near the teeth making a kind of stop. That way when the saw blows through, the tape wrapped around it (being larger in circumference than the hole saw, and thus the hole just drilled) stops it.
Or put a large cable tie around the hole saw.
@madintheheid For sure, but the thing is, I ALWAYS have electrical tape on me. I don’t always have cable ties on me.
What's the difference whether you predrill the pilot hole or not? If you pre dill and then mount the saw, when you enter the predrilled hole you are in exactly the same situation either way. The only advantage I can think of is if you are bearing down on the pilot bit with the HS mounted and you don't anticipate when it breaks through, then the HS slams into the work. If that's your problem you might want to go ahead and take the time to do the hole in 2 operations. Or lengthen your pilot bit. lol
@OddJobFix You got it right. There’s plenty of times at work where I’m drilling knock outs and the bit I have is not necessarily the sharpest in the world. And the boss is too cheap to buy new ones. So a lot of pressure applied, and when it finally pops you gotta let that pressure go in a fraction of a second or the hole saw will slam into the work, bite, and twist. Lots of times that will bend the pilot or break it. Plus it’s easier to see where you’re drilling the pilot with the hole saw detached, wanna drill on center so my pipes don’t look like dog water.
@OddJobFix if you pre drill the pilot hole, you can better control how and when the hole saw makes contact and lessens the chances of snapping a bit or busting your self up. Also placing a fender washer just bigger than the hole saw on the pilot bit between the saw and the work does the same trick.
You can also "stack" hole saws on most arbors! Put the bigger hole saw on first, then thread the smaller hole saw on after.
I still haven't figured out to drill a smaller hole, after drilling to big a hole though....
you can also take the smaller cut hole and simply place it over the drill bit of the bigger size. you have to pull that piece of wood out of the bit anyways, why not put it back to work?
That's easy just use the board shrinker or a time machine 😂🍻
You get a smaller hole saw
for drilling a smaller hole after you drilled too big of hole, use the repair trick shown, glue in the plug, after the glue is set come back and drill the smaller hole.
That right there is a classic tip. Nice one mate.
I have a years-old piece of pine in my garage (my wife claims I am a pack-rat, I simply reply "I might need that sometime") that has a hole in it made for solution 1 in this video. And the "drill from both sides" tip is one that everyone should know, even for non OSB projects. It eliminates blow out. (Well, reduces it at least. Not an issue with OSB in most cases.)
In any event, I am in the process of redoing a bathroom on my daughter's house, and today is the day where I have to use a hole saw to fit drywall and cement board over plumbing fixtures in a bathroom, so bravo for reminding me of so of these techniques! No metal cutting for me today, though!
Great presentation, Wadsworth!
Electrician here. Retired now.
Removing the holesaw from the arbor. You got what you got. You are not spending another dime. The nearest supplier is an hour away.
Time is money. You are not leaving that job by golly!
You need only two things you probably already have.
A washer with the same size hole as the drill bit. A very little bit of anti seize. Apply the anti seize to both sides of the washer. Now, place said washer over the bit, resting on the arbor. Now attach the holesaw. Wah-la! Now you have a holesaw that can be removed rather easily compared to before.
Remember, anti seize is friendly. It likes to go and make itself known to everyone and everything. So make sure you wash it off in earnest. Cause the next thing you know, it will be all over you. All over your vehicle. Your wife's new table cloth and the kitchen drapes she is so proud of.
Hahahaha , man you are right about it being friendly , I never heard it stated that way ! I always told people to keep the cap on 'cause it sneaks out and gets on everything before you even know it !!😊
It’s like opening a can of tar………………..
voila, not Wha-la
"Beat you to death with the part of your body it riped off", truer words have never been spoken when dealing with a Milwaukee Hole Hawg and a large bit or any sized bit for that matter! I remember twisting myself into a shape that a contortionist would be jealous of with one of those. Oh the memories, priceless.
Those are no joke. Broke a metacarpal when one bound on me.
Was just talking at work about how much damage they can do.
Ouch
The best is an 8" hole saw on an air drill
@@lorengordon3228 I have a 2 foot pipe for mine when I need to run low speed , always brace it against something , it will just break the trigger handle right off , so be careful . I got hit really hard once almost knocked me out and gave me a black eye . Hole hawgs are extremely powerful drills . They set the original standard for plumbers and electricians , and it took many years for any of the other power tool companies to come close ! Watch out , it WILL break your wrist !!
The reverse trick works great on vinyl siding also.
also works with a chop/miter saw for cutting material that chips easy. Put the blade on backwards! Cheers
Great video, lots of excellent tips. Two more:
1. Use cutting oil when cutting a hole in metal, to make your hole saw last a lot longer. Or at least spray it with water. I would even spit on it if I had neither.
2. Before cutting, think about what would happen if the hole saw locked up. Hold your drill in such a way that it won't do harm. Typically that means holding it in such a way that it slips out of your hand (rather than smashing your hand or twisting it). And so it doesn't smack you in the face. Or toss you off your ladder. Or ... etc. These were lessons taught to us apprentices back in the 80's, when using the Hole Hawgs.
Your videos are therapeutical, friend! Thank you 👍👏👌
Remove the slug when the hole saw is hot. Always extra keep pilot bits on hand this will make your day go much smoother
Great content as always. The reverse trick works well for dry wall as well. Scores the cut nicely and makes a clean finish.
Been watching this guy since I started my painting business 2 years ago.
Keep up The Good Work! ❤
Why?
Thank you for editing the noise my friend. Nobody is ever that thoughtful and well done. You left just enough noise to relay the ozone to our nose and not so much we wake the dragon in the next room.
If I might suggest; when drilling (sawing too) metal, the use of cutting oil (or sometimes the closest oil even WD) helps the cut and also extends the life of the pilot bit, and hole saw teeth. There are wax stick type of cutting lubricants meant for circular blade, kind of like a giant lip balm. Of course this is for cutting metal, not wood or OSB. Hole saws are expensive and extending the life is a good thing. Love the videos, long time subscriber. Have a great New Year.
I found regular household olive oil for cooking to work well for metal tapping/drilling. Kinda smells nice too. One of those use what you have on hand moments that stuck.
ESPECIALLY if you’re cutting or drilling stainless steel. Some sort of lubrication is absolutely required.
italian mom agrees
@@Yugemos
My italian mom agrees
Thank you, thank you, thank you! The template for drilling a larger diameter hole atop an existing one...wish I'd known a year ago, poor ol' door didn't survive😂
Lessons learned by way of the experienced are oftentimes invaluable. So many tricks of the trade that one will never find in a guide or manual.
Grinders TOO!! I’ve had a grinder in my paws since I could lift one up. When I was a kid, like many little swines, I wanted to be all grown up. Anyway my dad’s friend was helping him with the car and he said something along the lines of “Now, a grinder is a proper man’s tool!”. He wasn’t showing off, just meaning that they can be dangerous, more than anything. Naturally, being one of the many kids that wanted to be an adult at the age of six, I just HAD to have a go. Eventually (at 8 I think) they let me have a go under very well-supervised conditions and I obviously loved it and have never looked back. After 30 years of using a grinder I had my first ‘accident’ that could have been a good deal worse. I wasn’t being complacent, it as only a 4.5” (115mm) grinder but I was using the cup type of wire wheel to polish up some catwalk brackets of a huge piling rig, easily over 12lbs each. The wire cup found a hole, and threw the bracket a good few feet to my left side while Newton’s Third Law Of Motion got to work throwing both me to the right and the grinder (still grinding) into my right leg. Thankfully I had two pairs of jeans and my overalls on at the time so no harm was done. I looked down at the grinder at the time thinking it strange that the wires were glowing orange. That just could not be right for the amount of time/pressure/mass of the wire/cooling from the air etc etc - it turns out that it’d taken a good chunk out of my insanely orange 🍊 overalls :) :) It can happen at any time to any of us, no matter the experience we have or how good we think we are!! Just be mindful of that and protect yourself while using such things. It amazed me just how much power one of these tiny grinders has under its belt. Anyway, I apologise for the essay but if it serves to prevent one person losing a chunk of right leg/eyeball/jugular vein etc, then it was very much worth my time writing it. Be safe folks, because unfortunately, it CAN happen to YOU.
Brilliant video Scott, as ever. Some of these top tips were really tip top (all, actually - but though some made me grumpy with myself for not having thought of them myself - easy when you know how, eh?). Anyway, apologies again for cluttering up your otherwise pristine comment section. :) :)
What a gift for hobbyists and aspiring craftsmen to learn from someone like this. Thank you
Thanks!
The dedication! EC drills a hole into his shop just to show us. Thank you!
I wasn't anxious at first.. I figured he was about run a pipe through it. But no!
"...it's going to beat you to death with the part of the body that it tears off!" Laughed my a** off on that one. So very true. Thanks for this tutorial Scott. Awesome information!
Some wonderful comedy sprinkled into this gem of a video don't ya think!
Thank you Scott & team ❤
When you have a hex head bit try using an impact driver, it takes away wrist breaking twist you get when the saw bites in, try it
Interesting!
Thank you
The saw guide is a really good idea. I’ve been using my old Greenlee set for over forty years and I never realized the bits came in 1/8 increments.
Love the reverse carpet method as well. I have used that technique on plastics but never carpet.
Your videos are always so informative and helpful - thank you sir so much for your content over the years
I have tried EVERY type of hole saw as an electrician. I ABSOLUTELY without doubt deliberately abused a Diablo hole saw. It was the last inch and an eighth the supply house had. I cut over 80 holes in cement board and thick gauge aluminum framing studs. Without question THE BEST hole saws and arbors available today. I LOVE those things
Thanks for making this video! I love the tip about making a template to resize / elongate a hole. That’s going to save me some headaches!
So many great tips from this man.
You could combine the fist two tips; and then your patch won't have a hole in the middle from the pilot drill:
drill a template (of the larger size, with sacrificial wood). then remove the pilot drill bit, and drill the next hole in the material for the patch, using the template.
Cutting wax works great on hole saws ! if you need to drill into carpet - use a sharp Razor blade and cut a few lines N/S and E/W across the size of the hole before drilling ! and Always use a drill bit to pre drill the starter hole for your hole saw - its no fun to just start drilling and have the holesaws drill bit break off
See my answer above. I've NEVER broken a pilot bit on the arbor.
@@OddJobFix you have been very LUCKY !
That was great...opens up the imagination. Thanks.
You can unscrew the hole saw from the pilot bit and use it to punch the donut out of it. It’s faster than using a screw driver.
This. It also helps to keep the hole saw from binding/becoming stuck on the arbor, since you’re consistently taking it on and off.
Thanks for all the amazing videos and epic content!!!
looking at your work shop amount of tools and your all round skill
its amazing . all ways learning from you .
all the best from London England
This is great information. Can't tell you how many times I've drilled and undersized hole with a hole saw and didn't know what to do next other than scream!!! Great info, only wish I had your video ten years ago. Your instructional videos with various tools are most helpful. I imagine the hard drive in your brain must need to be resized every decade with all the information you store!! Thanks.
To cut cleaner holes, get the pilot bit started and then go full speed and light pressure while the blade teeth scour the surface, then continue at any speed with moderate pressure. If the entire hole will be later covered, go ahead and "blast through" at any speed & feed. I always enjoy your videos, Mr. Wadsworth.
You are the "Quintessential Craftsman"!
I don't know if anyone else mentioned it, but removing the pilot bit and arbor, then using that as a tool to push the plug out of the holesaw from the rear, that is the method I use.
I have had a couple big drills teach me humbling lessons a few times...great tips thanks
I always tend to run the hole saw in reverse at first to establish the kerf. Great tip about doing that for carpet drilling! Thanks Scott
Great tips and tricks. I made the switch to Rotabroach cutters instead of hole saws for making holes in metal. It's made a huge difference in the accuracy of the holes and the longevity of the tools.
When using these to punch through vinyl siding and the barrier paper , using them in reverse is a must to prevent damage to it. Once through, then you can go forward into the wood.
That guide trick and the ability to make Dutch style plugs is really has been really useful in home renovation. Especially when base board heating has been removed. The ability to make a cleanish void, then plug the 100 year old wood floor with the same material from cutting a plug from a closet or somewhere inconspicuous, if not just buying a plank of whatever material it is and getting a plug from that before the sand and finish the floor really saves the day.
Great video. I like that you keep the drill close to your body. I think that’s important especially with big hole saw bit and a powerful piece of equipment. Don’t hold it out in front of you, if it catches you’ll have less control over stopping it from spinning and hurting yourself.
Future use guaranteed for me. Thank you.
Carpets... Use a carpet punch,, easily made with a length of galvanised pipe sharpened ..Plan ahead. Wonderful tips as always.. Thank you so much.
Very good...especially with the carpet.
Great content as always!! 😊
Great tips. Thanks!
A lot of good tips as usual Scott! Something worth looking at is the Spyder Rapid Core Ejection arbor system. They are not cheap, but time is money on the job.
Those diablo quick release hole saws are the best in the market I have found.
Ok so I wondered how you could possibly make a 19 minute video on hole saws. Shows you what I know. Great video.
This video makes me think of a former boss I had, working as an electrician. He didn't think you ever needed to pull a hole saw out to clean/ clear the teeth. As if the teeth never get gummed up when using a hole saw going through pine studs, joists, etc...
Thinking about that made me remember another former boss who wanted his hacksaw blades installed so that they cut on the pull stroke instead of the push stroke.
You are my pastor scott!😅😅
Scott, Yep, hole saws are one the must frustrating tools in the drawer! Some great tips! Thanks! Lee
Good video. 25 year electrician here. Lots of hole saw drilling through double plates etc. 20 years on and one of our new guys saw me struggling with a stuck plug. He taught me to clear the blade repeatedly as I go (in/out, up/down depending on the direction your drilling) plugs come out way smoother! Sometimes they practically fall out.
Reverse trick works great on vinyl siding and soffiting too.
Only thing I disagree with, please unplug your drill before removing plugs, bump the trigger and the driver could wind up in your buddy across the room.
7:50 man thats some madmax kinda sheet right thar👍
I have a Diablo hole saw set with the nifty arbor. It’s terrific.
I feel like Im actually learning and retaining the information from your channel thanks.
Finally good tips. No dumb music or loud mouths telling me how to do things. Thank you sir!
The Spyder bits with a few large carbide teeth are great. Even for brick and block. The larger kerf and design of the arbor make clean out super easy. Use it almost daily in HVAC installs.
The Milwaukee HoleHawg and their SelfFeed bits are beasts. As a former plumber, I was drilling with a 4-5/8 inch bit through a bottom plate. When I pulled the bit out of the completed hole, I discovered that I had split a 16d nail down its length. The HoleHawg did not once complain nor was the bit significantly dulled. Used them both for years afterwards.
outstanding guidance. Keep up the good work!!!!
The Bosch arbor system is the best IMO, when you pull the sleeve to partially eject the holesaw and material plug you can use it at a slight angle to knock out the material plug by hand, no tools required.
You can also eject the pilot drill using the sleeve, when I use a guide template as you do I always remove the pilot drill, then you have a full plug without centre hole if you want to refit it using expanded foam.
Oscillating the cordless drill also gives more clearance so the holesaw will not bind.
A missing concept from the video: *the bigger the hole saw, the slower the speed* . Think about the edge speed of the blade. The edge of a 1" drillbit moves 4x as fast as the edge of a 1/4" drill bit when spun at the same RPM. And the edge of a 4" holesaw moves 16x as fast as the edge of a 1/4" drillbit. Through a given material, you want the cutting speed that the cutting tooth drags, to be roughly consistent. So, if you double the diameter, you should be halving your speed. Otherwise you're going to smoke your saw, ruin the temper, and melt the teeth off. At these extreme cutting speeds, this even matters for wood, where, normally you'd only have to consider this stuff when cutting metal.
About the Diabolo attachment system, that looks exactly like the one Bosch uses for their holesaws. They have a lot of different "cutting" bits even ones for concrete and tile, two different hex shank options, and even adapter bits for other brands that use threads, so you can mount your old/specialized holesaws onto the Bosch assembly.
Many times I'll start off scoring the surface by putting the drill in reverse. Once I have a slight groove I'll flip over to forward and carry on as normal to prevent initial wandering. My Milwaukee hammer drill has an anti-binding lock out circuit that's saved me many times on larger holes!
I have used that exact same trick. Sometimes I use a piece of sheet metal for the template. For the tearout your trick works or screw backing to the back side or just use high rpm and less push for a slower cut at the end.
Scott, you should look into Spyder hole saws. With the quick plug ejection. Just push the button and slide the bit back and the plug pops out, no more prying! Rapid Core Eject they call it. Big step forward in hole saw technology
As an electrician, we always wrapped a solid 12 wire around the arbors thread to prevent the overtightening. If it does bind, install into a drill chuck,and turn with channellocks.
This channel has changed my life
Spyder makes a nifty hole saw holder that slides back and forth on a longer shaft. This is not only useful for ejecting plugs, it allows holes to be sawed at an angle to the surface that a regular bit won't. Check it out, I think you'll love it.
I know the video isn't about those Dozer hole saws but I have a set of those and they're real nice for metal.
Nice. I'm usually lazy and use the hole saw I just used, doubled on the same arbor as a pilot with a fender washer or two if possible to give it a little riser.
Phil engaging the safety squint 👍
a RELIEF hole for the sawdust is a neat trick .... yest its more time... however ... the blade gets bound with dust less AND it keeps the blade cooler
Before I went to Hilti, I used to take all the belt clips off. Had a small paddle bit hit a screw and the entire drill motor flipped around. No problem letting go in time, but the clip swung around a took a giant chunk out of my wrist. Even these new 18V brushless tools can easily do that to you.
"ugly but useful" and "desperate times call for desperate measures". Priceless wisdom.
Thanks for all the tips thank you again
I knocked myself out using a 1" hole saw in an aluminum plate, close quarters under a swim platform on a boat. My hand on the control handle spun with the tool and played sweet chin music.
Yikes 😮
That trick also makes wood donuts that you can feed to termites or beavers.
The spyder hole saw system is a good mix of the milwaukee pin system and the Diablo quick release by far my favorite system since their arbor fits most hole saws
I use the "blowout" prevention techique shown here with spade bits as well. Drill from one side until the bit point penetrates and then flip the board over and complete the hole from the other side.
And the other way to avoid "blowout" is to place the board on a piece if scrap and drill through into the scrap.
Many great tips and tricks in this video. And great imagery “if it binds up it will beat you to death with the part of your body that it tears off”
Love this.
This segment in hole saws and the one on how to use ratchet straps are so useful! Everybody knows how to drill holes and use a ratchet strap except almost everybody - until they pull up the Essential Craftsman and watch him do it right.
One last tip - hole saw teeth are sharp! Ask me how I know. On second thought, don’t ask!
Thanks for the carpet trick!
I hope to never need to use it.
A principle that I learned while playing pool definitely applies in regard to drills like the Hole Hog or other ol' wrist breaker; using just enough power to do what you need to do often leaves you in a much better position afterwards.
run it in reverse to spin the plug out. if the tool has a break to stop spin when trigger released is great, just tap reverse several times
Great idea
Very good tips!
Check out the milwaukee big hawg set. Huge carbide teeth, comes with a diamond file to sharpen the bits, slip shank with pins, and the openings to get the cores out are massive which makes the core come out super easy.
There are anti-kickback drills now. Might save a broken finger, wrist or involuntary ladder dismount.
Love your videos.
There is a lack of decent side handles provided with many new drills. These are still a very good way of reducing some of the kick back risk. The ones provided though are often not secure enough for my liking. The older style with threaded attachment are the best in my opinion.
Alternate method: @0:28 reinstall the too-small donut on the end of the larger hole saw's arbor. It keeps the tool centered on the original hole until it bites into the wood.
And works better, but only if the old hole is centered correctly.
And doesn't work for all sets of hole saws.
Thanks, it's a very interesting
the new style hole saws with carbide teeth (the big carbide cutters, and not an annular cutter) are amazing for cutting metal. I had a brand new Lenox bi metal hole saw and it lost all its teeth trying to barely cut some 22ga stainless steel. I got a cheap carbide hole saw on amazon for less than the Lenox and it cuts stainless easily
I’ve got to find a set of moose antlers! Fun conversation piece.
Use an impact driver to loosen stuck holesaw in reverse or use a drill to drive in a screw from the front into the wood between the pilot hole and saw edge, comes straight out.
Thank you.
Spider has a set with quick release like you showed at the end but on a hex drive. They are the best way to remove a plug by far. Even subfloor and a 2x jammed all the way in slides out on the pilot bit!
Great info. Gracias