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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2024
- Sometimes you need to make a quick jig. In this case, a simple guide to help resaw veneers. But why this simple jig is so underrated I do not know. It's fast. It's dirty. Then again, maybe that's why I like it as much as I do.
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Alex Snodgrass over at the Band Saw Life channel shows you how to set up the bandsaw with no to tiny amount of drift. I've seen him a couple of times in person at shows and he is very generous with his time. Changed my life with the bandsaw. I can resaw to within 1/64 top to bottom and front to back after following his instructions. Couple of quick tips: lower your upper guides to just over the top of the wood - helps reduce the amount of twist the blade can do; use a GOOD resaw blade - I know its a pain to change out but worth it - I use a 1/2 inch Laguna Resaw king on my 14 inch Rikon saw and it is fabulous; Lastly take your time and use a slow feed rate - puts less force on the blade so less likely to want to twist.
Snodgrass is a wise man for sure. I just utilize this saw for a huge amount of operations so I rarely set it up exclusively for a resaw. However if I had to for a big project, I would do something similar to what he does.
Top guide height for videos is a concession for filming so that we can see what they're doing. Doubt he would have it set like that in daily work.
I agree, my advice was more for anyone else watching
@@ENCurtis I own 2 band saws, one for resawing the other for curves, my 14" camewith the insert for single point resaw but i never use it bc I keep it tuned.
I was at one of his demos a couple of months ago. He was resawing using a 3/8" blade. He said that he leaves the same blade on his saw for everything.
If it's set up properly, a good saw shouldn't any drift.
As a guy who never had shop class in his small school, these videos have been very helpful and informative for me. Your style of teaching is amazing. You lay everything out in front of the viewer one by one until it all makes sense together. In my opinion, the best educational woodworking channel on youtube
I agree! Curtis is great.
I was very fortunate to have a woodshop class when I was 13-14. We didn't even get close to this level of sophistication. Curtis goes into options and alternate approaches to achieve fancy/beautify results. I also really value this content, even when I might disagree!
Honestly, never had seen this type of fence before. Excellent knowledge dump for those of us who aren't Jimmy D. WHY doesn't this channel have a hundred million more subs? Yours are top-5 level videos in this space all time for me. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much!
exactly what `I was thinking... :)
the reason you haven't seen a fence like this is because if you tune your saw regularly you won't have any drift to worry about, my saw came with a bar to put in the fence to use like this but i never even took it out the plastic bag. I resaw daily and this was painful to watch, go watch Alex Snodgrass's video on how to tune your bandsaw and you will have no use for anything he said in this video
@@a.j.simmonds6324 The bigger question is Why are YOU here? I tune my saw every time the blade is changed (I have one saw so it requires it) and I seriously doubt you break out the micrometer and hardness tester to test each blade front to back and then scienturgically input those hardness and thickness data into a magic theorem that spits out the exact geometries required at each tuning point on your saw...let alone that the very point that it's a bandsaw precludes it from being that accurate. What you're probably saying is you're used to how YOUR saw resaws based on experience and YOU may not need such a fence. Well, congratulations. I can spoke a bicycle wheel without instructions. If you can't, WHY? LOL. The interwebs is a funny place, indeed.
@@mcseforsale wow you sure make adjusting your guides and ensuring your blade is tracking sound really hard, I dont know how I get any work done, maybe tune yours more than when you change the blade, make sure its proper each time before you use it. The thumbnail didnt say anything about making a bandsaw rewsawing pivot point or I wouldnt have watched the videos, usually he makes great videos but was by far the worst well ok the only bad one I've seen, I guess I just expected more from him.
Nothing like waking up to a new video on a Saturday. Now to go make a thing.
Appreciate you!
I had given up trying to resaw on my bandsaw... but then I watched your video and figured that a jig that simple was worth giving a shot. Built it (if you can call sticking two pieces of wood together "building")... And... I just sawed and bookmatched my first project.
That little tip was gold. Thanks!
I inherited a 40 year old Craftsman bandsaw years ago. I recently decided to make some small boxes that required me to resaw some pieces. I spent some time and money replacing the dull blade and guides and did a full tune up on the saw. I could never get it to track properly. I happened upon your video and made the fence. It worked like a charm. Thanks for sharing! I am looking forward to going through your other videos…
OMG, this was such a great tip. I have struggled with resawing to the point I was going to sell my bandsaw. I built this jig after watching and it worked like a charm. Thank you so much.
Resawing is one of those life changing skills. It really opens up a lot of possibilities, even beyond veneers. Much as I respect Mr. Snodgrass, I've never been able to completely eliminate drift. So a single point fence is a godsend. For those of us who like ye olde things, I made a kerfing plane with a bandsaw blade. It establishes the cut and helps control the final cut. The kerf is thinner than a table saw blade, and just as accurate.
100% it’s a game changer
Loosen all guides, align the gullet base to the wheel center, align base, align fence, tighten guides to almost touch the blade. After that's all set you only ever have to set the guides when changing the height. I found it hard to follow Snodgrass he strings it out so long that it's like being lectured, eventually I took notes, the main thing is it has to be done in order for it all to align. Rob Cosman wasn't a believer now I saw him cut veneer trusting his fence. It just takes a lot of effort the first time.
First time I've ever had this explained. Thx.
You just validated my Magswitch single point resaw guide purchase. I see videos of very rigid resaw fences and they seem to work wonderfully. I figured it was just me, but now I know I am in good company. The magswitch works great and holds extremely well. Yours is much simpler and just as effective.
Super, super helpful, Erik! I’ve been frustrated by messed up veneer cuts on my bandsaw and now I’ve got a jig. Thanks and as always, great work!
Very welcome!
Been using this style fence for years, works so good.
Hearing you say the word veneer while looking at your mug gave me a good chuckle.
My Rikon bandsaw came with a metal version of this, but I honestly never understood how to use it. Thanks so much for this great explanation!!! Love your channel.
I had drift issues that drove me nuts. Until I tuned up the saw, table, fence and blade. Now, no problems and lots of straight cuts. By the way, a damaged blade can make it cut crooked. Change it. They are not that expensive. Certainly less than hardwood. Glad you figured it out. I used to use a single point fence but I don't need to now and my veneers are much flatter now.
I don't have a bandsaw,sadly. I therefore, didn't know about drift. Thanks for explaining it and for introducing me to the jig.
I can't wait to try this, the band saw is my favorite tool in my shop(of big tools)and is the bane of my existence.
Thank you so much. I have dried so many different ways to resaw with limited success . What you do makes sense to me. Going to my shop to try it. Julien
My bandsaw has zero drift, and the fence is set square to the miter slot. You adjust the table to the drift, not the fence. I keep my big saw set up to resaw and rip. I have a 10 inch saw for scroll cutting. It's a nice compromise
You are correct. Adjust the fence parallel to the table's miter slot. Loosen the saw's trunion bolts to slightly rotate the table a little and tighten the trunnion bolts, and test for drift. Repeat until drift is eliminated. A simple test for drift is to rip a piece of scrap using the fence about 2 inches or so deep. Stop the cut. While holding the work piece against the fence turn off the saw. Check that the back of the blade is centered in the kerf. If it is not centered repeat the process until it is centered. I've found that once this adjustment is made, I have never had to repeat it even with different blades. When installing a blade, I always adjust it's tracking so the bottom of the gullet is centered on the the upper wheel.
I agree. When you are resawing fairly rough planks, a single-point resaw fence is just what you need -- even if blade drift is not a problem on your saw. A single-point resaw fence allows you to follow a cut line (marked or unmarked) without fighting an uneven plank to keep it against the fence. And, as you show, it works well on S4 stock for cutting thin veneers. Sweet!
Thanks for the video.
You don’t joint the fence side first?
@@sethhamilton5824 I don't have a joiner. I do sometimes hand plane one side of a plank before thicknessing and ripping.
As always, very educational and informative.
Nothing like a dose of ENCurtis in the morning to get you motivated to go make something.
I picked up my first bandsaw recently. Working on my first project where I’m resewing and bookmatching. Turning out pretty good.
Rock on!
U smokin krak?
Thank you... new to this and still sooooo much to learn...
This was really good on many levels. Thank you
Enjoy your videos. I shared your frustration setting up a band saw. I attended a workshop with Micheal Fortune a number of years ago and Wow! What a difference. Check out this approach to band saw set up, finally the miter slot is useful and re-sawing is a joy.
Learning something new every time. Thanks.
You bet!
Someone buy this young man a drum sander…! Seriously, thanks for the great guide, Erik!
To be fair a person proficient with a hand plane can help mitigate not having a drum sander, and a hand plane is cathartic to use. It's a joy to have no dust, low noise, and there is something that just feels right about doing things "the old way". We know this dude is no stranger to hand planes, so he may not even covet a drum sander.
Haha one day I’ll add it to the arsenal
I love this technique so much. Also great on the scroll using a marble.
Drift is my bane as well. I do everything I can to avoid cutting straight lines on my bandsaw.
I don't agree. Drift is usually just setup of the bandsaw. I have followed the Alex Snodgrass bandsaw setup video. Works every time. Even on a basic 9in delta bandsaw this has worked.
Another great video. Thank you. Time for a refill.
Never knew this about the bandsaw - while wondering why the hell my boards drifted when resawing. Brilliant topic!! Thanks man
I definitely making one. Thanks
Thanks for more education and entertainment. Time to go make a thing in the garage.
Have fun my dude!
Informative video. thank you.
I dont even have a band saw but still loved this video Erik. Thank you.
I don't even have a bandsaw and I enjoyed this and learned a cool technique!
Nice job..... learned something new and useful in a very concise and clear way...... can't beat that 😊😊😊
My old bandosaurus drifted like it was in Fast and Furious... It really pissed me off😆 New saw is much better and has a drift compensating fence which has drastically reduced the swearing when sawing veneer..
Don’t have a bandsaw, don’t want a bandsaw, and at almost 73 (almost old enough to run for President) don’t expect I will ever have a bandsaw, BUT ( no, this is not a snarky comment) I found this technique interesting and clever. Thanks for sharing.
Absolutely fantastic!!! Thank you, a thousand times over, for sharing your advice and knowledge! I’m still new enough that there are “assumed knowledge” elements completely missed and you seem to hit so many of them. Definitely want to pick your brain about oh so many of those key tips, and then you seem to make a video not too long after 👊🤌 Cheers mate!
Very helpful. 'never had much luck resawing; mainly have used the bandsaw for rough-cutting curved parts and always had issues with drift when resawing tall stock.. I recently picked up a used drum sander so I'll have to give this a try.
Thanks for another great video Eric.
My pleasure!!
I'm a complete newbie when it comes to bandsaws... I took the time to follow the "Snodgrass Method" and although not nuts perfect it is darn darn close. On a whim I tried cutting a piece of hard maple thin enough to read through... I didn't get that close but with the help of a flashlight I can easily see the shape of the paper through it. I will be making myself this jig. And thank you for the montage... always entertaining, always informative, and hoping that is just coffee in the cool AF mug :)
Thank you, I've been needing this video for a while now ... I just didn't know it!
For God's sake man, get a SuperMax drum sander, it's a game changer! Thanks for yet another informative and entertaining video, love your channel.
I’ve been covering one for a while!
Thanks for the video Eric, that single point fence is really useful.👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
Erik my man, I agree with most all of your points. Would like to add this, check the wheels on band saws. Most , but not all, of newer band saws are just not machined well. Older saws for the majority are better build. My old general, 50's version, resaws better then all my friends and their new high priced junk. Semper Fi bud and keep bringing new vids.
I’ve experienced similar issues with new v old my man. Hopefully that changes one day!
Most excellent, thanks Erik. Two observations: 1) I have experienced drift not only horizontally, but vertically as well, which has led to any number of AAARGH moments. My only solution has been to cut extra thick, then thickness sand down to the finished thickness I want. 2) Your veneers look relatively narrow. I mainly make sculptural art boxes, and mine are too, generally not wider than 6". In which case, I use my thickness sander from Model Machines down in Florida to get veneers down to the thickness I want. Originally developed for wooden model ship builders, this is really the ticket when dealing with small scale wood.
Thx for sharing
Very helpful!
This is the kind of resaw fence we used in school shops, since it was just not practical to keep such heavily used, constantly adjusted saws tuned for re-sawing. Sure, if you need to do a ton of resawing, it's totally worth tuning the saw for that operation, but for a workhorse, multipurpose saw, the single point option is quick and easy.
I’m “The Bandsaw Guy” at my local woodworking guild; we have 5 in total all used for different purposes by different users; occasionally even correctly 😅. I set them all up the exact same way as per Alex Snodgrass and do NOT have any issue with drift unless some numpty either knackers a blade by forcing it to cut too tight curves in (Australian) hardwoods or tries to cut through nails and screws. My fences run parallel with the mitre slot and I “prove” each setup by taking a 1mm thin slice from the far side of a block running along the fence; the block has to be at least 3” tall though I usually try and find something 4-6”. Sometimes a new blade has been over-set to one side but that can be tweaked by lightly running a diamond hone on the teeth at that side.
I appreciate how a single point fence can compensate for drift; but I prefer to set the machine up properly in the first place. I find the couple of minutes it takes to position the blade correctly on the crown and fine tune the guides means I can push the wood through quickly and confidently. Following a pencil line while running along a single point fence requires much more concentration.
You still get a “like” because I appreciate the time you took to present this method. It’s not “wrong”; just a different way.
Dude, thank you.
Interacting because the algorithm needs to feed your videos to more people! Always look forward to your videos on Saturday mornings!
Appreciate you!
Great video! Thanks
Glad you liked it!
Bonus you can use it as a template follower just by raising it to rub against the template then cutting a little into that round nose so your template doesn't get cut while rubbing. I honestly am amazed how hard everything sounds once I try to write it down, your really gifted at making things interesting.
As always nice video. Have a good one
Very nice thank you
And another great video, thank you,
Good information
Best vid of the day!
I have a big Hammer, and I found that with an inch and an eighth blade I have virtually no drift, in fact, never noticed any. I think the wide blades make a lot of difference. I also find fence angle isn’t super critical because most of blade is floating in the kerf.
Nice jig!
Imagine that... something useful that I've nevercseen before. 0:02 (And I watch a Lot of TH-cam.) A quick tip that may have a good application here. Lay your carpenters pencil flat on it's side with a nice point/edge and use it to scribe a quick 1/8 line.
I appreciate all you do.
Learn how to properly set up your bandsaw and you won't have to resort to using such jigs. The best explanation I've ever seen is provided by Michael Fortune.
Look at some of Michael Fortune’s videos on table saw setup and tuning and you will drift no more. In my opinion, the single point fence is better suited for reproducing curved faces on the opposite side of a work piece, like a curved back splat.
Funny. That is exactly what i did few days ago. I'm making flame maple and ebony binding (one is 2 mm, other is 1.5 mm thick) for guitar fretboard. But i don't have thickneser so good old hand plane, set really lightly, scrapers and sandpaper on flat board. Oh and digital caliper check every half a minute or so.
Took me about 3 hours but i got to around 0.1 mm difference in thickness . Precision is important because binding on one side has to mirror the other side, so visually it has to match, and the taper of the fretboard has to be fairly exact as it has to match strings angle.
I cut them a little bit thicker than I want them on the bandsaw and then send them through the thicknesser, once on each side. The result is always more than good enough for my purposes.
Ok now i need the follow-up video putting them through the planer. Specifically how to get them unstuck from the tape in 1 piece.
Bandsaw is next on my list. I really wanna resaw lumber and do some book matched pieces.
I’m a small dyi guy at home making # moma “ stuff . I can use most every thing you bring to your channel. Thanks much ! Mikey
neat. thanks.
thank you
Laguna resaw king blades. No drift.
Also, minimal blade marks and no burning. Expensive but they stay sharp forever because they are carbide.
Thanks. My fence came with a single point attachment (a fat metal rod that clamps on vertically). Now I have a much better idea how to use it.
A very high word to information ratio in this video
Thanks for your great videos. 🇦🇺👴🏻
Great video. I Only wish you had cut a veneer with the 90 degree fence on the saw to demonstrate the run-out.
I can't help but wonder if anyone has attempted to make a sort of riving knife for a bandsaw. To have a stationary strip of steel, the same thickness of the bandsaw blade, perfectly aligned behind it, could help prevent drift. (?) Not exactly sure how it would be mounted, or adjusted, but it would be interesting to look into.
Great video! Cheers!
What a handsome and talented young man ❤❤
I made my own bandsaw and one of the challenges has been to set the table square with the blade drift. Somwtimes i get close but i probably need to reso aome of the parts on it to make it more tunable.
I didnt know yhisbthing had a name, but magswitch makes a fence similar to this with a bunch of bearings at the apex and i figured soemthing like that (basically this exactly) would aolve my problem and allow me to resaw well.
The other option is to do like kyle toth has done and freehand resaw down a line with two push shoes. Not preferable for me!
15 minutes, 20.... Make up your mind! ;)
(Always love a montage)
I think the “thing” I’m gonna make today is a single point resaw fence. Thanks!
Would have liked to see you drop the upper bandsaw guide to near the top of your single point fence.
I seen tip to line the inside of blade gullet to top of wheel crown, drift is not an issue anymore.
I was struck by how uneven your cut appeared to be around the 10:09 mark--clearly wavy and not flat. I imagine two results from this: 1) not a bug, but a feature--gluing the outside flat side to your substrate, and leaving your wavy side out for some texture of something; 2) run this (and your other resawn veneer cuts) through a planer or drum sander to get down to a uniform thickness. Thoughts?
Thx
Getting a deep resaw blade also helps....i have a 3/4" blade or something like that on my bandsaw & resawing is pretty driftless in most species and depths. Great info though if i ever need it.
At first, my thoughts were not for me. the hand tool only next, but if, if I did have access to a band saw, it would be awesome to have.
Where did you get your cyclops coffee mug?
Sweet as, another good tip to try. On another note, where did you get your ahop Apron? It looks awesome!
Today "I learnt a thing" cheers Eric
Where you get that mug? It's awesome
I want to get one
I will buy a bandsaw soon...its very very useful and can be used in so many ways... honestly its a game changer lol ...but what are your thoughts on a scroll saw bro , I'd love to hear .
Love the vids, I think they're great. Spot on about drift. Just one question, Sir. I was taught old school, as part of the way to help with drift, was to set the guide post about 1/8" above the height of the wood your re sawing. I have never had bad results using this technique with either a single point or solid fence to re saw once I know my drift. So why do fellow woodworkers using their bandsaws with the guide post 2"-3" above their stock? Is this not also a safety issue? Just askin Sir. Thx.
While I agree the bandsaw usually has a one pass advantage on how much re-saw capacity you have, If you are having to run the veneers through a planer to get if flat, is there really much difference in wood loss due to kerf? There may still be an advantage.
now if you are re-sawing a thicker board into two thicker slices the advantage of the front to back dimension of the blade makes binding and kickback way less of a problem on the bandsaw.
All of that being said I think the jig you made is the way to go for most of us trying to re-saw on a band saw.
Thank you for this. I have a single point resaw fence that I haven't used for a while. I have to fish that out. Is that gator skin on the apron pockets?
Sure is 😎
Does drift change with the hardness or thickness of the wood? Or is it more a function of the blade and where it sits on the wheels?
Can you plane the pieces after the resaw to remove the high spots?
Reasons your bandsaw may drift, incorrect set on the saw blade, saw blade over heated from doing tight turns more on one side than the other, hence dulling the saw on one side, Hitting a nail etc. or grit in the timber, awkward grain in stock timber.