First A big thanks for your video. It gave me plenty info to prepare for my pump swop. Like to advise that instead of using a trolley jack use some tie downs front and back. Did hook them up to the prop shaft and on the other end some openings in the chassis. This way one has a good control of lowering the tank and putting it back in place again. Because of the straps one can still move the tank around while lifting it back in position. Hope this helps others.
Broke mine as well while I was pushing the large filler hose off. I couldn't find a 13/64 roll pin, instead I used a 3/16 roll pin and a 3/16 drill bit. It's a size smaller than the 13/64 so it didn't try to grab the plastic while I was drilling it out, I was able to hold the small piece in my hand to drill it. Also i used my vise to squeeze the roll pin just a little to close it up which made it easier to push it in. I used a clear two part, plastic bond epoxy made by JB Weld that sets up in 5 minutes and cures in 1 hour around the crack once the two pieces were put back together. Thanks for the video.
This is such a complete, thorough, and well thought-out video, thank you! I'll be dropping my tank to replace a leaking pump seal and this will be a huge help!
@@BurlyNerdGetsTheWorm I have the gasket and lock ring and will be attempting it next week, mine only leaks around the fuel pump when there’s a full tank
Thank you for the walk through! Helped me confirm the codes on my daughters 08 Wrangler X, tiny large leak found! Tube cracked but not broken off. JB Weld to the rescue! ($2400 saved for better uses!)
Excellent video Sir. I'm presently replacing a friend's rusted out skid plate for the fuel tank. So before I found your video, yes that same EVAP nozzle broke and I was like damn. Anyway thanks to you, I'm out of a bind with one 13/64 split pin and apoxy. Thank You Very Much for posting this video!
@@austin.gresham same question tho: did the fix hold up? everything good after this? cant believe mopar/jeep thought it was a good idea to make this not replaceable...
@@penguiin12 Yes, the fix held up. Ultimately, I also had an issue with the fuel injectors being the real culprit of my rich condition codes, but this fixed the pressure issue.
I did this exact job about 3 years ago. What an absolute pain in the ass. The fuel line coming from the sending unit to the motor broke at the fitting and could not be repaired. Had to replace the entire sending unit. I live in Northern Ontario Canada where they use an abundance of road salt. Needless to say 4 of the 6 bolts sheared off during removal and we spent many hours and a lot of money on Tungsten Carbide drill bits drilling out those bolts. Spent another day cleaning up the outside and inside of the tank, cleaning and patching up the skid plte and doing some rustproofing. Finally put everything back together. Definitely could be designed better. Plastic is not the proper material for this purpose.
Great job with this video, Super thorough!!! Appreciate leaving out some of the grunt work, and highlighting the important steps of this!!! Video’s like this make these type of jobs doable for us here at home Do-it-yourselfers!!!!
My connector broke just like yours and I was searching ways to fix it and came upon your video. Great idea on the roll pin. One question, what type of epoxy did you use?
Great Job on the video. I just got my new pump delivered and will be tackling this soon. I don't think you showed the existing pump very closely or the new one going in. It seems straight forward, but I am not seeing any strainer or filter on the new one. It must be built in so I would have to take it apart to see if it looked clogged, which I think is my issue with fuel pressure ~30psi.
@@ht9565 Correct, it's all one unit: glad you got that figured out before you wasted your time! As far as the install you are also correct - I did not detail that. Just the reverse process starting at about 09:25. Good luck!
Just finishing up the fuel pump replacement. Going back was definitely not as easy as dropping it, i used cribbing and jacks and back and forth until got everything lined up finally. Did you say the torque for the tank mounting or the 21 mm bolt that you had to back off. Also, at the end of your video, you primed with the gauged still installed to verify pressure. But then what did you do? Did you pull the fuse again to kill the motor and relieve pressure to take the gauge off and reconnect everything? I am thinking of skipping that step and just reconnect and cycle the key, not sure how many times it takes to build pressure.
@@ht9565 Looks like I neglected to mention the torque specs for those! The 21mm for the lower control arm is 125 ft lbs and the bolts for the fuel tank skid are 30 ft lbs. You are correct about the gauge at the end. If you're confident that the pressure is good you could skip that step. It takes only 2-3 key cycles to build pressure. Congrats on getting it done!
Any time Inwork on my Jeep undercarriage so shoot the bolts with OB blaster a couple times a day for a week until IM ready to do the job. At least this is the case with my XJ and I guess these newer Jeep’s are no different. I’ve never stripped or broken a bolt doing it this way.
Great video, lots of good information. I can tell you must be in a heavy salt area. You really need to fluid film your underside, or use some por15 on it. That poor jeep is going to rust away.
@@austin.gresham Hot damn, I've got it dropped, and thanks to your warning I did not break the evap nipple. Now just have to tackle the lock ring but the hardest part is over, except for lifting the tank back up. Thanks again!
Is it possible to cut a hole through the cab over the fuel pump to access it? My fuel gauge stopped working, and I'm really not looking forward to dropping the fuel tank.
I suppose you could come from the top, but to me that seems like more effort than dropping the tank. I am not near mine right now to double-check, but there may be other frame components (cross members, maybe) in the way as well. Before you look at replacing the assembly, have you checked to make sure the level sensor is working properly - checking voltage, resistance, etc - before pinning the sensor as the culprit?
@austin.gresham I'll take a closer look before I do any cutting. I've seen it done on a jeep TJ and thought I'd ask since you've been under yours. First, it was reading 3/4 tank at a full level, then would only go to 1/4 full. Now it stays on E. Sometimes, it jumps up to 1/4 again. Thanks.
Hello there, great video congrats. That 21 mm was a nightmare, in my case was super tight so decided to slide the tank to the left, not fun indeed. I got the tank down because that vapor vacuum tube broken as well. My question is...do you think I can use a normal rubber hose (not a pressure hose) instead the original plastic hoses or that line handles high PSI or runs gasoline through it. Im not sure how it exactly works, what's the real function, but yeah, gotta P0455 & P0456 EVAP codes and light check engine on.
Hey, thanks for the compliment on the video. Glad it was helpful! As far as the rollover valve, it's connected to the EVAP system which is very picky about pressure. The EVAP is not high-pressure like the fuel line and there is no fuel that runs through it, but there are fuel vapors. I'm not a chemical expert so I don't want to recommend using a rubber hose in its place or tell you it won't work: I am not sure. The rollover valve is just a check-valve that shuts off the fuel line if the vehicle rolls over on its side or upside down. If you got the EVAP DTC codes after you snapped off the connector, then that's what's causing those. As I mentioned before, they are connected (EVAP and rollover). If you already had those codes, sounds like you have another leak in the system. Very common are a leaky fuel cap (cracked) or the EVAP canister under the Jeep. You can also check under the hood near the EVAP purge valve, sometimes the plastic hoses get pinched near the battery and cause a leak, or they melt when they touch the EGR tube.
I knew you would answer my question...but hey thanks a lot for the quick response and very detailed explanation (TH-cam mark this answer as highlight)...I never imagined that valve shuts off the vehicle (Jeep Rubicon In my case) if rolls hence the name of course) I'll check all the sections you mentioned for possible cracks,melts or loosen hoses...Thanks Again -kudos
I can't recommend a specific brand based on my experience. I often use Rock Auto and they have a lot of choices, some with ❤ next to the ones that have received top reviews. I would start there. I avoid the "economy" category and usually buy the "daily driver" parts.
Hello the small hose i guess for EVAP leak test that one is broken did that ll effect the consume the gas ؟ shell to replace the pump because the it broken from the port of EVAP
The gauge is connected at the fuel rail. Check out the first video (link in this video's description) and it will make sense. There is a MOPAR adapter you need as well, also in the other video. Good luck!
why didnt you just use a 3/16th roll pin rather than a 13/64? i'm only curious because when i measured the hole for the same repair it measured exactly 3/16th. what difference would 1/64th make? again im just asking.
Great question! I used a pin slightly bigger to make sure it didn't get pushed farther into the rollover valve or farther (away) down the evap tube. Seemed like a good compromise between just right and slightly oversized. More of a game-time decision than anything. If you have success with the 3/16 please post!
@@austin.gresham thanks. I did see you told someone else it didn't work. I have a missfire cylinder 3 and p0171 lean. Just bought my 09. Changed plugs wires and coil. Injectors were next cuz still have the codes after clearing. That's how I found your videos. So a great job explained and pointing out the bolts and part numbers. Love it!! Mine has 206k miles. Regular oil changes, but most other things look to be original. I hate fake videos where everything goes perfectly. NEVER HAPPENS. 😝
I did not. In my case it was mostly sand, rock and other grit. It wasn't rusted/seized like a normal bolt where heat would have helped. Plus, a gas tank.... not sure heat would have been a good choice
Ultimately I had to replace the injectors to fix the CEL I was getting (Rich condition in all banks). I never got any EVAP CEL's but if I had not fixed the rollover valve it definitely would have. Short answer: if you break the EVAP tube, fix it before you reinstall the tank.
@@austin.greshamDo you remember what brand the injectors were that were giving you the rich condition and what brand injectors did you replace them with?
Great Video! I have a 2012 Jk, 2 door. It runs fine for 5 minutes or so then just shuts off. It will restart without a problem but sometimes it will crank for about 5 seconds before starting after it shuts down. The shutting off seems to get worse after driving it for a while. Do you have any ideas of what the problem may be?
Hmmm... wondering if your fuel pump is going bad? Or the relay/fuse/wiring to the fuel pump? You might also want to check the fuel lines and make sure there isn't blockage, kinked hose, etc. A pressure test would help narrow it down.
Hi ntransam. Unfortunately, I still have the codes. I think it's the cheap injectors the previous owner used when he was getting a misfire. They are Bosch injectors that I can only find on Ebay, so that's not comforting. When I get a spare $800 I will be replacing all 6 with OEM-quality ones.
I will say, though, the fuel pump did need to be replaced. It was not putting out the proper pressure. It was probably the regulator, but it's all one unit so you have the replace the whole pump assembly.
I have a 2011 jk, check engine light code p071 and p074, which is lean fuel. So the jeep at random times just turns over with out cranking up, then theres times it just does a slight turn and shuts off without cranking up. Once it fires up it might run fine for a week or a month with out any issues, but then it starts acting up. Do you think is a bad fuel pump?
Could be. The only way to know for sure would be a fuel pressure test. Since you're getting lean in both banks, it could also be a vacuum leak. I just had lean codes in another jeep and it turns out the PCV valve was stuck open - that's a $15.00 fix that takes less than 30 min. Replacing the pump, as you saw in the video, is more expensive and takes longer. If you have an OBD scanner, it would be interesting to see what the fuel trims and O2 sensors are saying (how lean are you, and is the STFT and/or LTFT "pegged" lean)? Lean can also be caused when the system stays in Open Loop mode, which can also be a bad temp sensor - coolant, intake, MAP. A good OBD scan tool can help narrow all that down.
Sounds like the EVAP to me. Maybe a cracked line. The EVAP connects to the rollover valve, the gas filler tube and up to the engine: all with hard plastic lines.
Hey, trying to replace a fuel line on my 2013 JK, and there is a fitting with a red ring tab that comes off, and then it has a gray button on the back, but I can't figure out how to disconnect it. Help!
So, without seeing it, here's my best guess at what you're describing. The red ring stays on the end your trying to disconnect from. Press the gray button and pull that side away from the red ring. Does that make sense? I think what you're describing is the connector at 1:32 in this video: th-cam.com/video/zfuYTjftkDo/w-d-xo.html If not, it's bound to be one of the ones described here. Good luck!
I’m having to prime my fuel pump before starting the engine if I don’t I get harsh starts. Jeep runs fine ones it’s running but I’m suspecting my fuel pump is going out. Any tips to confirm I get no codes?
The best way is to check the fuel pressure at the rail. Sounds like the regulator, but it's all in the same unit so you have to replace the whole thing anyway. Could also be a leak in the fuel line, but you'll most likely smell gas if you garage it. Get underneath and check all the lines and connectors to be sure.
I dont know how the hell you got that tank down with that bolt there lol. I'm waiting on my buddy to come by because I don't have a 21. good video tho!
Hi Mindaugas. The ones I used were Dorman 13850. You can find them at any auto parts store. This is an assorted bundle, so find the one that is slightly oversized and drill it out. I used a 13/64" drill bit. Sorry I did not reply sooner!
JB Weld clear. For this one, I bought the "pen" with a plunger that mixes the two as it comes out of the end. I still mix it a little more by hand, though.
Thanks for the video, I was watching this after I removed my tank, and I ran into every single problem you did.
@@Toots807 I hope it helped!
First A big thanks for your video.
It gave me plenty info to prepare for my pump swop.
Like to advise that instead of using a trolley jack use some tie downs front and back. Did hook them up to the prop shaft and on the other end some openings in the chassis. This way one has a good control of lowering the tank and putting it back in place again.
Because of the straps one can still move the tank around while lifting it back in position.
Hope this helps others.
That's a great idea on the tie downs! Thanks for sharing
Broke mine as well while I was pushing the large filler hose off. I couldn't find a 13/64 roll pin, instead I used a 3/16 roll pin and a 3/16 drill bit. It's a size smaller than the 13/64 so it didn't try to grab the plastic while I was drilling it out, I was able to hold the small piece in my hand to drill it. Also i used my vise to squeeze the roll pin just a little to close it up which made it easier to push it in. I used a clear two part, plastic bond epoxy made by JB Weld that sets up in 5 minutes and cures in 1 hour around the crack once the two pieces were put back together.
Thanks for the video.
Glad you found a solution!
This is such a complete, thorough, and well thought-out video, thank you! I'll be dropping my tank to replace a leaking pump seal and this will be a huge help!
Thanks for the feedback, glad it helped!
How did the seal replacement go? I have to do mine soon
Oh, it's still waiting on me, ha ha. All the parts are ordered and I keep putting it off. I really need to get on it.
@@BurlyNerdGetsTheWorm I have the gasket and lock ring and will be attempting it next week, mine only leaks around the fuel pump when there’s a full tank
@@BurlyNerdGetsTheWorm worked on my leak this week, turned out to be a crack in the fuel pump housing and not the gasket
Thank you for the walk through! Helped me confirm the codes on my daughters 08 Wrangler X, tiny large leak found! Tube cracked but not broken off. JB Weld to the rescue! ($2400 saved for better uses!)
Great! Glad to hear you saved some serious $$!
Thank you so much. I broke the EVAP cable connector, and I was not excited to spend $800 on a new tank. Keep up the vids 🙏
That's great! glad it helped
Excellent video Sir. I'm presently replacing a friend's rusted out skid plate for the fuel tank. So before I found your video, yes that same EVAP nozzle broke and I was like damn. Anyway thanks to you, I'm out of a bind with one 13/64 split pin and apoxy. Thank You Very Much for posting this video!
Fantastic!
did this fix hold up? i am about to have to tackle this myself
@@austin.gresham same question tho: did the fix hold up? everything good after this? cant believe mopar/jeep thought it was a good idea to make this not replaceable...
@@penguiin12 Yes, the fix held up. Ultimately, I also had an issue with the fuel injectors being the real culprit of my rich condition codes, but this fixed the pressure issue.
I did this exact job about 3 years ago. What an absolute pain in the ass. The fuel line coming from the sending unit to the motor broke at the fitting and could not be repaired. Had to replace the entire sending unit. I live in Northern Ontario Canada where they use an abundance of road salt. Needless to say 4 of the 6 bolts sheared off during removal and we spent many hours and a lot of money on Tungsten Carbide drill bits drilling out those bolts. Spent another day cleaning up the outside and inside of the tank, cleaning and patching up the skid plte and doing some rustproofing. Finally put everything back together. Definitely could be designed better. Plastic is not the proper material for this purpose.
Wow! I live in Ohio - definitely hear you on the road salt. Thankfully I only broke one.
Great job with this video, Super thorough!!! Appreciate leaving out some of the grunt work, and highlighting the important steps of this!!! Video’s like this make these type of jobs doable for us here at home Do-it-yourselfers!!!!
Thanks for the great feedback!
Thank you for your video this right here helped me step by step replace my fuel injector! And I broke that piece too lol
My connector broke just like yours and I was searching ways to fix it and came upon your video. Great idea on the roll pin. One question, what type of epoxy did you use?
I typically use the JB Weld that comes in 2 separate tubes instead of the one that supposedly mixes as it comes out.
Great Job on the video. I just got my new pump delivered and will be tackling this soon. I don't think you showed the existing pump very closely or the new one going in. It seems straight forward, but I am not seeing any strainer or filter on the new one. It must be built in so I would have to take it apart to see if it looked clogged, which I think is my issue with fuel pressure ~30psi.
I just looked it up, the filter is part of the assembly, not really serviceable.
@@ht9565 Correct, it's all one unit: glad you got that figured out before you wasted your time! As far as the install you are also correct - I did not detail that. Just the reverse process starting at about 09:25. Good luck!
Just finishing up the fuel pump replacement. Going back was definitely not as easy as dropping it, i used cribbing and jacks and back and forth until got everything lined up finally. Did you say the torque for the tank mounting or the 21 mm bolt that you had to back off. Also, at the end of your video, you primed with the gauged still installed to verify pressure. But then what did you do? Did you pull the fuse again to kill the motor and relieve pressure to take the gauge off and reconnect everything? I am thinking of skipping that step and just reconnect and cycle the key, not sure how many times it takes to build pressure.
@@ht9565 Looks like I neglected to mention the torque specs for those! The 21mm for the lower control arm is 125 ft lbs and the bolts for the fuel tank skid are 30 ft lbs. You are correct about the gauge at the end. If you're confident that the pressure is good you could skip that step. It takes only 2-3 key cycles to build pressure. Congrats on getting it done!
Great job with the in-depth step by step
Thanks!
Any time Inwork on my Jeep undercarriage so shoot the bolts with OB blaster a couple times a day for a week until IM ready to do the job.
At least this is the case with my XJ and I guess these newer Jeep’s are no different.
I’ve never stripped or broken a bolt doing it this way.
Great video, lots of good information. I can tell you must be in a heavy salt area. You really need to fluid film your underside, or use some por15 on it. That poor jeep is going to rust away.
What do you mean "going to?" It mostly has 🤣
Amazing video mate, helped me replace mine in my jeep, greeting from Panama.
I am getting ready to do this, this video is very helpful! Did you remove your muffler first, and if so, do you recommend I do so as well?
I did not remove the muffler - it's not in the way of anything. Good luck!
@@austin.gresham thanks! I dropped the tank on a rusty TJ once, this time it's a not so rusty JKU. Hopefully it goes smooth! Cheers!
@@austin.gresham Hot damn, I've got it dropped, and thanks to your warning I did not break the evap nipple. Now just have to tackle the lock ring but the hardest part is over, except for lifting the tank back up. Thanks again!
@@danbowen710 Great!
Great instructional video, Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Is it possible to cut a hole through the cab over the fuel pump to access it? My fuel gauge stopped working, and I'm really not looking forward to dropping the fuel tank.
I suppose you could come from the top, but to me that seems like more effort than dropping the tank. I am not near mine right now to double-check, but there may be other frame components (cross members, maybe) in the way as well. Before you look at replacing the assembly, have you checked to make sure the level sensor is working properly - checking voltage, resistance, etc - before pinning the sensor as the culprit?
@austin.gresham I'll take a closer look before I do any cutting. I've seen it done on a jeep TJ and thought I'd ask since you've been under yours. First, it was reading 3/4 tank at a full level, then would only go to 1/4 full. Now it stays on E. Sometimes, it jumps up to 1/4 again. Thanks.
3:55 mine busted there too changing my transfer case. I’ll drill it out later, replace with new.
😆
Thank you for this very informative video. Can you please tell me what is the best point to connect the fuel pressure gauge to JK?
Hey Mesheezy, sorry I didn't see this earlier. The fuel pressure gauge gets connected to the fuel rail under the hood. You need the adapter, though.
Hello there, great video congrats. That 21 mm was a nightmare, in my case was super tight so decided to slide the tank to the left, not fun indeed. I got the tank down because that vapor vacuum tube broken as well.
My question is...do you think I can use a normal rubber hose (not a pressure hose) instead the original plastic hoses or that line handles high PSI or runs gasoline through it. Im not sure how it exactly works, what's the real function, but yeah, gotta P0455 & P0456 EVAP codes and light check engine on.
Hey, thanks for the compliment on the video. Glad it was helpful! As far as the rollover valve, it's connected to the EVAP system which is very picky about pressure. The EVAP is not high-pressure like the fuel line and there is no fuel that runs through it, but there are fuel vapors. I'm not a chemical expert so I don't want to recommend using a rubber hose in its place or tell you it won't work: I am not sure. The rollover valve is just a check-valve that shuts off the fuel line if the vehicle rolls over on its side or upside down. If you got the EVAP DTC codes after you snapped off the connector, then that's what's causing those. As I mentioned before, they are connected (EVAP and rollover). If you already had those codes, sounds like you have another leak in the system. Very common are a leaky fuel cap (cracked) or the EVAP canister under the Jeep. You can also check under the hood near the EVAP purge valve, sometimes the plastic hoses get pinched near the battery and cause a leak, or they melt when they touch the EGR tube.
I knew you would answer my question...but hey thanks a lot for the quick response and very detailed explanation (TH-cam mark this answer as highlight)...I never imagined that valve shuts off the vehicle (Jeep Rubicon In my case) if rolls hence the name of course)
I'll check all the sections you mentioned for possible cracks,melts or loosen hoses...Thanks Again
-kudos
Such a great video! I have an O8, which year is yours?
Thanks! Mine is also an '08
what brand fuel pump should I buy for my 2010 JKU Rubicon?
I can't recommend a specific brand based on my experience. I often use Rock Auto and they have a lot of choices, some with ❤ next to the ones that have received top reviews. I would start there. I avoid the "economy" category and usually buy the "daily driver" parts.
Hello the small hose i guess for EVAP leak test that one is broken did that ll effect the consume the gas ؟ shell to replace the pump because the it broken from the port of EVAP
That fix was awesome 👊🏻
Awesome video! Finishing up mine now. I’m curious where are you attached that pressure valve though?
Sorry I meant gauge.
The gauge is connected at the fuel rail. Check out the first video (link in this video's description) and it will make sense. There is a MOPAR adapter you need as well, also in the other video. Good luck!
Great video and articulations, new sub
Thanks for the sub!
why didnt you just use a 3/16th roll pin rather than a 13/64? i'm only curious because when i measured the hole for the same repair it measured exactly 3/16th. what difference would 1/64th make? again im just asking.
Great question! I used a pin slightly bigger to make sure it didn't get pushed farther into the rollover valve or farther (away) down the evap tube. Seemed like a good compromise between just right and slightly oversized. More of a game-time decision than anything. If you have success with the 3/16 please post!
Great details , thank you very much!
Thanks!
Great videos!!! Thank you. Did your codes go away!
Unfortunately, not from replacing the FP, but it needed to be done anyway. The ultimate fix was replacing awful aftermarket injectors with OEM ones.
@@austin.gresham thanks. I did see you told someone else it didn't work. I have a missfire cylinder 3 and p0171 lean. Just bought my 09. Changed plugs wires and coil. Injectors were next cuz still have the codes after clearing. That's how I found your videos. So a great job explained and pointing out the bolts and part numbers. Love it!!
Mine has 206k miles. Regular oil changes, but most other things look to be original. I hate fake videos where everything goes perfectly. NEVER HAPPENS. 😝
10:50 did you try to apply heat to get the o-ring off.
I did not. In my case it was mostly sand, rock and other grit. It wasn't rusted/seized like a normal bolt where heat would have helped. Plus, a gas tank.... not sure heat would have been a good choice
Nice job on this video, great help
Glad you liked it!
when you fixed the rollover valve did it still have check engine light on?
Ultimately I had to replace the injectors to fix the CEL I was getting (Rich condition in all banks). I never got any EVAP CEL's but if I had not fixed the rollover valve it definitely would have.
Short answer: if you break the EVAP tube, fix it before you reinstall the tank.
@@austin.greshamDo you remember what brand the injectors were that were giving you the rich condition and what brand injectors did you replace them with?
@ntme9 Yes, the old ones were Bosch. I replaced them with MOPAR OE injectors.
Great Video! I have a 2012 Jk, 2 door. It runs fine for 5 minutes or so then just shuts off. It will restart without a problem but sometimes it will crank for about 5 seconds before starting after it shuts down. The shutting off seems to get worse after driving it for a while.
Do you have any ideas of what the problem may be?
Hmmm... wondering if your fuel pump is going bad? Or the relay/fuse/wiring to the fuel pump? You might also want to check the fuel lines and make sure there isn't blockage, kinked hose, etc. A pressure test would help narrow it down.
@@austin.gresham Thank you!
@@rogerpena9590 Don't thank me yet! I may have completely mis-diagnosed the problem 🤦♂️
I didn't notice the pump strainer and fuel filter. Are those internal to the pump as an assembly?
Yep, everything is in the fuel pump assembly.
Hi Austin, did you fix the rich codes you had? If so was it the fuel pump? I’m having the same issue with my 07 Jk. Thanks
Hi ntransam. Unfortunately, I still have the codes. I think it's the cheap injectors the previous owner used when he was getting a misfire. They are Bosch injectors that I can only find on Ebay, so that's not comforting. When I get a spare $800 I will be replacing all 6 with OEM-quality ones.
I will say, though, the fuel pump did need to be replaced. It was not putting out the proper pressure. It was probably the regulator, but it's all one unit so you have the replace the whole pump assembly.
I would have rustoleum black painted it while out?
the skid plate? 🤔 didn't think of that!
I have a 2011 jk, check engine light code p071 and p074, which is lean fuel. So the jeep at random times just turns over with out cranking up, then theres times it just does a slight turn and shuts off without cranking up. Once it fires up it might run fine for a week or a month with out any issues, but then it starts acting up. Do you think is a bad fuel pump?
Could be. The only way to know for sure would be a fuel pressure test. Since you're getting lean in both banks, it could also be a vacuum leak. I just had lean codes in another jeep and it turns out the PCV valve was stuck open - that's a $15.00 fix that takes less than 30 min. Replacing the pump, as you saw in the video, is more expensive and takes longer. If you have an OBD scanner, it would be interesting to see what the fuel trims and O2 sensors are saying (how lean are you, and is the STFT and/or LTFT "pegged" lean)? Lean can also be caused when the system stays in Open Loop mode, which can also be a bad temp sensor - coolant, intake, MAP. A good OBD scan tool can help narrow all that down.
Id like to know where you got that 13/64 tube? Thank You
It came in a "roll pin" kit from Advance Auto
Are there no straps the skid plate holds up the tank?
That is correct
I have a 2012 Jk can’t fill the tank or all you can smell is gas in the Jeep any idea what it could be?
Sounds like the EVAP to me. Maybe a cracked line. The EVAP connects to the rollover valve, the gas filler tube and up to the engine: all with hard plastic lines.
Thanks for the video.
Glad you liked it!
What that broken connector are for?
It's part of the EVAP system which basically burns extraneous gas fumes instead of venting them to the atmosphere.
Hey, trying to replace a fuel line on my 2013 JK, and there is a fitting with a red ring tab that comes off, and then it has a gray button on the back, but I can't figure out how to disconnect it. Help!
So, without seeing it, here's my best guess at what you're describing. The red ring stays on the end your trying to disconnect from. Press the gray button and pull that side away from the red ring. Does that make sense? I think what you're describing is the connector at 1:32 in this video: th-cam.com/video/zfuYTjftkDo/w-d-xo.html If not, it's bound to be one of the ones described here. Good luck!
I’m having to prime my fuel pump before starting the engine if I don’t I get harsh starts. Jeep runs fine ones it’s running but I’m suspecting my fuel pump is going out. Any tips to confirm I get no codes?
The best way is to check the fuel pressure at the rail. Sounds like the regulator, but it's all in the same unit so you have to replace the whole thing anyway. Could also be a leak in the fuel line, but you'll most likely smell gas if you garage it. Get underneath and check all the lines and connectors to be sure.
Austin Gresham thank you for the information!
How many miles on your 08 JK? Mine just turned 155k.
When I wrote this up she was at 173k
233k on mine
I dont know how the hell you got that tank down with that bolt there lol. I'm waiting on my buddy to come by because I don't have a 21.
good video tho!
Yeah, it was not fun... good luck!
@@austin.gresham Thanks! Only broken one clip so far lol
where would i find roll pins
Any auto parts store should have them, check their website
@@austin.gresham thank you 👍🏽
can you tell me please exact measurements of roll pin and where can I buy online?
You can find an assorted pack at just about any auto parts store. Or gun store
Hi Mindaugas. The ones I used were Dorman 13850. You can find them at any auto parts store. This is an assorted bundle, so find the one that is slightly oversized and drill it out. I used a 13/64" drill bit. Sorry I did not reply sooner!
So did this fix the misfire ?
This was not a misfire, it was fuel too rich.
Dis it fix the too rich issue?
What epoxy did you use?
JB Weld clear. For this one, I bought the "pen" with a plunger that mixes the two as it comes out of the end. I still mix it a little more by hand, though.
Awesome! Thank you!
P.S. thank you for such a helpful video 🙏🏼
@@kelseymccarthy6942 You're welcome!
One more question, what drill bit did you use? Having a hard time finding a 13/16
Great video only one thing you didn’t do is paint the skid gas skid plate, that would of driven me 🥜
LOL! Good point... now I'm going to be thinking about that
take a shot for everytime he calls the JEEP a CAR.
I don’t have any tools and that Cost me $1300 to change the fuel pump. 🫤
Bummer.... that's expensive.