- 10
- 240 389
Austin Gresham
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 26 มิ.ย. 2013
Wrangler JK 3.8L Crankshaft Seal Replacement
This video shows you how to replace the crankshaft seal, also called the harmonic balancer seal, on the Chrysler/Jeep 3.8L V6 found on 2007-2011 Wrangler JKs and some other vehicles. As part of this procedure, you'll be removing and installing the harmonic balancer, so if you only need to replace that, this video will also show you how.
มุมมอง: 1 941
วีดีโอ
Jeep Wrangler JK Steering Gear Replacement
มุมมอง 12K2 ปีที่แล้ว
This video will step you through the process to replace the steering gear (often called the steering box) on a Wrangler JK (at least 2007-2011, maybe later models). You will need a vacuum bleeder with an adapter for the steering reservoir to perform this replacement. Recommended parts: 1) Steering gear (duh) 2) Two quarts of ATF-4 3) Replacement Pitman Arm 4) Replacement Pitman Arm Nut 5) Repla...
Wrangler JK ABS Module Replacement
มุมมอง 28K2 ปีที่แล้ว
This video will show you how to replace the ABS Module (controller) on any Wrangler JK 2007-2011. The part number for the ABS controller is different for almost every model year, so make sure you order the correct one! Spoiler Alert! You CAN reprogram the ABS module without going to the dealer to add the VIN. I was able to use JScan to do this. Instructions are near the end of the video.
Jeep Wrangler JK Lower Intake Manifold Replacement
มุมมอง 44K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Oil leaking from above the oil pan? Do you see oil on the bell housing or on the front of the timing chain cover? You could have a leak in the lower intake manifold. This video applies to any Jeep vehicle with the 3.8L V6, mainly found on 2007-2011 Wrangler JK's: this video uses a 2008 Wrangler JK. As part of the lower manifold replacement, you also will need to drain the engine coolant and thi...
Wrangler JK 3.8L Alternator and Serpentine Belt Replacement
มุมมอง 11K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Does your alternator sound like a bad turbo? Did the little red battery indicator illuminate on the dash or are you not getting full 14 volts when the engine is running? This video will help you replace the alternator and serpentine belt on any 2007-2011 Wrangler JK with the 3.8L engine.
Wrangler JK Front Axles - Replace Ball Joints and U-Joints (Part 2)
มุมมอง 3.4K4 ปีที่แล้ว
This is the 2nd in a 2-part series on replacing the front ball joints and U-joints in a 2008 Wrangler JK. Part 1 covered the disassembly of the front hub, ball joint and steering knuckle removal as well as the installation of the new ball joints and reassembly of the steering knuckle and tie rod. Part 1 can be found here: th-cam.com/video/OeWaAsol9v4/w-d-xo.html Part 2 (this video) covers the r...
Wrangler JK Front Axles - Replace Ball Joints and U-Joints (Part 1)
มุมมอง 2.9K4 ปีที่แล้ว
This is the first in a 2-part series on replacing the front ball joints and U-joints in a 2008 Wrangler JK. Part 1(this video) covers the disassembly of the front hub, ball joint and steering knuckle removal as well as the installation of the new ball joints and reassembly of the steering knuckle and tie rod. Part 2 will cover the repair of the U-joints and final reassembly of the half-shafts (...
Jeep Wrangler JK Fuel Injector Replacement - 3.8L
มุมมอง 58K4 ปีที่แล้ว
This video is an in-depth tutorial of replacing and inspecting fuel injectors on a Wrangler JK with the 3.8L motor. This applies to all JK's 2007 through and including 2011. This is the first of a two-part series, the follow up video, replacing the fuel pump assembly can be found here: th-cam.com/video/y8AOMGfviow/w-d-xo.html UPDATE 10/17/2020: I finally got around to completely replacing all 6...
Wrangler JK Fuel Pump Replacement
มุมมอง 79K4 ปีที่แล้ว
This video is a walk-through of replacing the fuel assembly in a 2008 Wrangler JK. Also, there is a section on fixing the EVAP line on the roll over valve on the fuel tank. This also applies to any 2007-2011 JK. This is the second video in a two-part series. The first video, replacing the fuel injectors, can be found here: th-cam.com/video/KSvZJ42X9GI/w-d-xo.html
Thriving in the Age of Accelerated Change
มุมมอง 2125 ปีที่แล้ว
The 4 Pillars of Enterprise Transformation
Your camera.is fine
Excellent recommend reinstalling wire conduit also.
Great idea!
I did the roll pin fix and the epoxy came loose in the hot texas summer.
@tvannaman2000 Wow, sorry to hear that. I've not seen that myself. Not sure which epoxy you used, but that's not typical.
Great video! Your lower intake manifold video absolutely saved me a couple of years ago. Like how your videos cover some of the more challenging repairs, and are very well presented. Thank you.
Thanks so much!
Just received gearbox from Rock Auto for my 2008 Jeep Wrangler 258,000 miles. Weight seems closer to 40lbs. BTW, great video.
Thanks! Good luck with the replacement
@@austin.gresham Did you have any issues removing the pitman arm from the tie-rod, or installing. I missed that on the video. Also, do you know the size of the o-rings on the tubes?
Your video is exactly what us JK owners with the Christmas lights on the dash needed! Well done sir!
@@BlueLineHarleybyMiltonFig Thanks!
Great, professional video and instructions Austin. TY so much for sharing, I"m going to tackle mine soon. l So should be successful after watching your video. Much appreciated!!!
Thanks! Good luck!
We call that rust protection here in the rust belt.
The socket in question is otherwise known asa "flex socket". 😂 Great video!
Yes! Or swivel socket...
While you solved the programming issue with JScan, do you know if the app will confirm the PCM and ABS fault with the torque request test you mentioned? I own JScan and can’t seem to find where that test would or could be. Thanks for your help.
Other than an Advanced Scan I don't think there is a way to confirm those faults with JScan. The only thing I could think of is to run the ABS brake bleed again and see if the fault comes back but that's a lot of work. The "old fashioned" way to test it would be to find some slippery ground, like gravel or sand, and punch it - the ESC should kick in on the ABS for the rear brakes to try and prevent wheel slippage.
Hi, nice video, I have a question, is it normal that the pulley you changed on your jeep doesn't turn when you turn it with your fingers when the vehicle is off?
Yes, the pulley is directly connected to the crankshaft so you're turning it, all the pistons and everything up to the transmission. If you put a big enough wrench on it, you'll be able to turn it (this happens to me in the video), but not with your fingers
@ Thank you very much for the information, so my pulley is fine because I can't turn it with my fingers, or does it have to be turned easily with my fingers?
@bayronchanchavac6454 Well, I can't guarantee the condition of your pulley over a chat, but it should NOT turn easily with your fingers.
@ Thank you very much, I removed the belt and all the pulleys turn smoothly, except the crankshaft pulley does not turn with the fingers
Great overview. I always like more perspectives and this is a good one. Thank you for sharing.
@@JohnsJeepGarage Thanks!
So am I able to reset the vin on a second hand abs model for a 2015 jeep wrangler with the 3.6L?
Yes, if you follow the AlphaOBD and/or JScan prompts you should be good.
What OBD2 scanner will work with the OBD Jscan software? Better yet, what are you using=) thanks
Hi! I am using the OBD MX+ - you can find it on Amazon. For the software I used JScan and AlphaOBD.
Question .. I love this video thank you, as a woman who is tired of being ripped off by mechanics and on a budget. My 2009 Wrangler Unlimited X 4dr 4wd JK has the ETC light coming on then I lose acceleration. Went to Auto Zone the code said Camshaft sensor. I replaced it, droves fine for a week or two. Now Its Back. Autozone ran the code again now it says C121C, Low tire psi, battery and oil. Secured the battery terminal, added a quart and air. Still having low idle/acceleration. Is this a C121C issue or a result of some other chain reaction sensor hide n seek? I rather fix the ABS module myself, lowering cost, but after I replace how far is the jeep able to drive before the reset is necessary? I wouldn't be close to a empty parking lot or dealership. Will it need to be towed? Im trying to effective and efficient.
The C121C is a tricky one because it's not a specific code, it's telling you something else is wrong. Based on your lost acceleration and ETC light, I think you might have a vacuum leak (too much air getting into the system). Without doing some O2 sensor inspection with a scanner, I can't say for sure though. In the past I've seen this with a faulty EGR valve (with no codes) and a faulty PCV valve (also without a code). Could also be a cracked hose somewhere. This is a tough one to diagnose "remotely". I would not start by replacing the ABS module, though - that's an expensive option that may not work. I would look up some videos on how to diagnose a vacuum leak and start there.
@@austin.gresham thank you. I will look into this, I replaced the air filter and pedal sensor, cleaned the sensor n ETC throttle, it seems to have improved gas mileage. But again started to sputter again, when idle drops under 25mph and with multiple stops. I think there is something up with air so I will check into it. Thank you 👍
came here to see which direction the seal goes. it seems to be directional and i don’t know which way the old one came out.
I wasn't sure if you were still questioning which way the seal goes or if you got your answer, but just in case you are still wondering the open side where you can see the spring goes toward the crankcase and the solid side that looks just like a rubber face goes toward the front of the Jeep. Hope that helps!
@@austin.gresham thank you!!!
Rich condition I always end up chasing o2 sensors
Usually that's where I start, especially if it's only reporting one bank/sensor. In this case, the prior owner used cheap injectors trying to solve another problem and just made it worse.
Thank you thank you thank you!!!!!!!! My wife and I were able to change the alternator and belt all by ourselves thanks to you!
@@jennycrew4034 That's great to hear!
Appreciate the 3.8 content! Not many video resources for them that are presented quite so well.
@@Seth-i5g Thanks!
I truly appreciate the video. Just noticed my Jeep has a leak from the front main seal. Your video was very helpful.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful - good luck on the repair!
hi, does anyone know where to get a 2012 jeep wrangler abs module
The part you're looking for is 68145835AE (or the older 68145835AA/AB/AC). There are a couple on Ebay and Ali, but they are expensive. Good luck
I’m doing the same thing except with New Timkin Hubbs, which come with the ABS sensors however I have broken them off inside of the hubs and I used an extractor to pull the thing out. You just have to kind of work it a little wet with an and stuff like that, and then I greased up the new one with dielectric and slid it right back in. Also, if you do not have a socket with an impact, just use a socket and a breaker and take your center cap off of the truck and you should be able to get it through there unless you’re using factory wheels I have aftermarket wheels and I can get the axle nut right through that wheel. Some can’t some can just food for thought if you have wheels a lot of these jeeps have wheels. Thank you for the video. I appreciate it. Also, Dorman makes kits for these hub bolts and it changes into a six point bolt. I have to replace both sides. Everything you’re doing plus the hubs so I got six brand new bolts for this thing and I’m gonna seize the shoulders so I don’t increase my torque value with a wet torque. They also sell a ball joint press kit for a C press that includes a couple pieces for straight axles to make it much easier for you. It’s about 50 bucks on Amazon.
Thanks for the tips!
"Dont judge me on the angry grill, its my son's jeep" that made me laugh. Great video Austin, thank you for the help.
First A big thanks for your video. It gave me plenty info to prepare for my pump swop. Like to advise that instead of using a trolley jack use some tie downs front and back. Did hook them up to the prop shaft and on the other end some openings in the chassis. This way one has a good control of lowering the tank and putting it back in place again. Because of the straps one can still move the tank around while lifting it back in position. Hope this helps others.
That's a great idea on the tie downs! Thanks for sharing
How about not saying anything if you can’t share. Useless
@@gusorviston1 What was missing? "Useless" isn't really a fair comment.
Thanks for the video, I was watching this after I removed my tank, and I ran into every single problem you did.
@@Toots807 I hope it helped!
Nice video (other than 1st time nervous mistakes -- went from 6 to 8 bolts on upper intake🤔). FYI: No need to remove throttle body or MAP sensor to remove upper intake. Keep up the good work. I feel your pain about non OEM fasteners, just did a 3.8 in a 2009 -- dealer sent it back to owner in pieces after denied lifetime warranty repair (missing pieces and extra pieces from some other vehicle!).
mid-2024 up here in Chinadastan,....$1219 and oh btw,.....4-6 months backorder! Take it up the tail pipe from Chrysler! Cheaper to go for a vacay in Mexico and bring one back! If Chrysler wanted to get all the Illegals to each bring one up,....there wouldn't be a supply issue!
Good video. I need to replace head gaskets on my JK in a couple of weeks.
Head gaskets will be fun. This will get you some of the way there. Good luck with your project!
I used this video to help me replace my injectors after it through a P0205, if I recall. Now I'm chasing a rich condition, too. Someday this thing will run right!
FYI: You are referring to the socket size for the bolts -- 12mm or 13mm socket size are usually M8 (8mm) bolts and 10mm socket size is usually M6 (6mm) bolts. A 10mm bolt will usually have a 14mm or 15mm socket size. Other than that, this is a nice video.
You are 100% correct. I am referring to the socket size so people don't have to guess which socket/wrench will work. I do say "bolt" which is technically not correct - the bolt size, as you pointed out, is usually designated as "M10," "M8", etc - not the same as the socket/head.
Wow! The detail and info u gave was priceless. A mobile mechanic was trying to charge me 1800 for this. Thank u very much! I have the top half off and i just need a fuel disconnect tool for the fuel line. I have a watched three videos of the same process but yours is the most in depth! Bravo. Ur son is a lucky young man. I hope he is taking notes when u work on his and other vehicles. Brilliance!
Thank you so much for the great feedback! I am so glad it helped.
I know this is two years old already... But your video really helped me out! Great video, great details, plain and to the point. Thank you very much.
Thanks!
I never was running rich until I installed the new injectors and on cold start she stutters to start. I’m getting p0172 p0175 codes
I have had no luck with any injectors except the OEM MOPAR ones. If you used anything else, I'd swap them out.
What is Jscan and what scanner models have it...??
JScan is a standalone app for iOS and Android. If you do a search for it you'll get a lot of hits on how to use it.
Can you do this with the free version of JScan?
No, the free version only allows some basic stuff, like reading the DTC codes. You'll need the licensed version to perform the full procedure.
Where did you get the new seals for the hoses?
They came with the new steering gear
I did this exact job about 3 years ago. What an absolute pain in the ass. The fuel line coming from the sending unit to the motor broke at the fitting and could not be repaired. Had to replace the entire sending unit. I live in Northern Ontario Canada where they use an abundance of road salt. Needless to say 4 of the 6 bolts sheared off during removal and we spent many hours and a lot of money on Tungsten Carbide drill bits drilling out those bolts. Spent another day cleaning up the outside and inside of the tank, cleaning and patching up the skid plte and doing some rustproofing. Finally put everything back together. Definitely could be designed better. Plastic is not the proper material for this purpose.
Wow! I live in Ohio - definitely hear you on the road salt. Thankfully I only broke one.
Broke mine as well while I was pushing the large filler hose off. I couldn't find a 13/64 roll pin, instead I used a 3/16 roll pin and a 3/16 drill bit. It's a size smaller than the 13/64 so it didn't try to grab the plastic while I was drilling it out, I was able to hold the small piece in my hand to drill it. Also i used my vise to squeeze the roll pin just a little to close it up which made it easier to push it in. I used a clear two part, plastic bond epoxy made by JB Weld that sets up in 5 minutes and cures in 1 hour around the crack once the two pieces were put back together. Thanks for the video.
Glad you found a solution!
Hey Austin whats the alfaobd you mention?
Hey! Sorry for the very late reply - AlfaOBD is an app you download. It uses an OBDII dongle (wifi or BT) to connect to the Jeep's computer and allow certain types of programming.
Is it possible to cut a hole through the cab over the fuel pump to access it? My fuel gauge stopped working, and I'm really not looking forward to dropping the fuel tank.
I suppose you could come from the top, but to me that seems like more effort than dropping the tank. I am not near mine right now to double-check, but there may be other frame components (cross members, maybe) in the way as well. Before you look at replacing the assembly, have you checked to make sure the level sensor is working properly - checking voltage, resistance, etc - before pinning the sensor as the culprit?
@austin.gresham I'll take a closer look before I do any cutting. I've seen it done on a jeep TJ and thought I'd ask since you've been under yours. First, it was reading 3/4 tank at a full level, then would only go to 1/4 full. Now it stays on E. Sometimes, it jumps up to 1/4 again. Thanks.
What were the symptoms that prompted this repair?
Rich fuel codes on both banks. I did some pressure testing and thought it was the fuel pump leaking. After changing the pump, the system still lost pressure (injectors were leaking)
Great video and easy to follow. I have the same problem, and as mentioned it's almost impossible to find this module. Apparently it's both discontinued and "Due to manufacturer supply shortage, this item isn’t currently available for ordering." Being in a relatively small market (Australia) doesn't help either. The only available option is to do what you exactly foreshadowed as not needed: 1. Replacing the whole system not only the controller. Apparently, the dealership have that available but not just the controller. 2. As it's replacing the whole system now. My mechanic wants to do all the bleeding process. Extremely costly. The other option is to purchase the controller unit online from overseas (not from mopar) which appears to be available, however this comes with considerable level of risk. This is scheduled for next week. I'll update my comment or reply to it. Maybe it helps someone who's facing a similar situation. P. S. After the installation I'll try the initialisation myself.
Good luck! Would love to hear your results when it's done.
@@austin.gresham - It didn't take long for an update. My mechanic called the Jeep dealership just moments before we placed the order to double check that the controller module is included in the quoted part, the salesperson confirmed, we asked for the part # and searched online, it was clearly mentioned that this is just the pump and pipes, and does not include the module. We called again, sales transferred us to a technical person who confirmed the module is indeed not included and they don't have it in the country (Australia). Now back to square 0. fishing for the module online.
@@ahmadbazzari9948 Sorry to hear that...
@@ahmadbazzari9948 did you find a module i am also waiting for one has been 6 months now
Wow man. I need to do this job on my 14' model. This vid rocks. I so much appreciate this. Thanks
Glad it helped! Good luck
I have a leaking oil, and coolant problem, guessing this is the same issue you had. can you tell me where I can buy the proper bolts, as snapping them in the engine is terrifying.. Great video!
The MOPAR part for these is 6102001. They are M6x12mm bolts you could source elsewhere, if needed (and likely cheaper)
Great video!
I have a 2015 JK Wrangler unlimited.Recently replaced front rotors & pads. Went on easily but after new parts and it doesnt happen all the time , when i hit the brakes it feels like the abs is engaging .I am getting no abs lights or any other lights coming on . When I was doing the install and compressing the caliper pistons I didnt open the bleeder valve or open the master cylinder cover when compressing the caliper piston to fit over the pads and rotor. Not sure if I did any damage to the abs system .The brakes feel good , just abs engages sometimes. I have a OBD2 reader that diagnoses abs codes but it shows no codes or errors .Has no live abs data capabilities in this scanner . Could my abs module be defective if im not getting any cides or abs lights coming on .Any suggestions on what could be causing this . Thank you
That's an interesting one. First, I would not worry that you did any damage by not opening the fluid reservoir when compressing the pads. I've done that a number of times and never damaged anything - removing the cap just makes the compression a little easier in my experience. If you think ABS is engaging, but you're not seeing any lights illuminate, then I don't think it's an ABS problem. If the ABS module was bad, you'd be seeing at least some code that tells you there's an error. I have not seen one just "stop" recognizing errors and give up. So, I guess that's the good news. Have you checked the rear pads? With the ABS, BLD rear diff, and traction control the rear brakes on these get worked a lot harder than older Jeeps. You may have an issue in the rear, including a bad E-brake shoe. I am about to post a video about these, actually, which caused pretty bad noise in a 2008 Wrangler. Other than that, you may have a driveline issue/noise, like shavings in the differential. Hope that helps!
Did you ever figure out your problem with the brakes? I’m experiencing the same thing.
@@Jo-manji , I don't have the JK anymore , traded it in for a new Tundra , but I remember instead of taking it in I replaced both front wheel hub assemblies and I may have put new calipers on too , but the wheel hub assembly had a speed sensor w/ it (got everything from Rock Auto) , installed all the new parts and everything went away and brakes stopped perfectly. I took a guess on the front end brakes being the problem and it all went well . Sometimes you can just put new sensors on but w/ the winters and salt where I live it's a pain in the ass taking those sensors out and most times you end up breaking the sensor that goes into the hub assembly . Plus I got new wheel hubs w/ the sensors. The sensors were attached to the hub assemblies when I received them . Fairly easy install , just take pics of how speed sensor wiring is routed in your Jeep . Good luck
@@HeavyChevyMega thanks for the advice. Will do.
The one im doing has rtv on both ends as well, around the coolant passages. Its leaking coolant. You reckon this is why? Its definitely factory. But this isnt the type of gasket that should have rtv on it. Was always told if ypu have a gasket, adding rtv is just doubling the amount of places that can leak (1 spot between each layer of )
You definitely should only have RTV in those end spots where the block meets the cylinder heads. If you're seeing RTV anywhere else, I can't imagine that was factory. It could also be sludge build up from oil/coolant leaking and maybe not RTV, but that's just a guess on my part. Regardless, scrape it all off and get a good surface for that new gasket.
@@austin.gresham lol just finished the job, fired it up, and its releaking, so bad . Took a few pictures, the intakes got pitting around the passenger side. Cant get these i takes anywhere, id imagine this is why there was silicone on it, to hide this. I bet the dealer the customer bought it from did it, they bought it used about 7 years ago, said theyve always smelled coolant but no ones been able to find the leak Gonna see if the local machine shop can plane this thing down a few thousands or something. Friggin sucks having to do it again
@@marioncobretti7870 Sorry to hear that, it really sucks when people half-@ss a job and hand the problem onto the next owner/sucker who gets to deal with the aftermath.
@@austin.gresham ended up using high temp rtv to fix it. Its not leaking now, told the lady if it happens again ill redo it. Machine shop wanted way too much lol I dunno why no one makes a better gasket or a different aftermarket intake. Youd think seeing as every wrangler ever made sells there would be a market for a known failing part. Wish there was just a gasket like gm uses, thicker with rubber/eurythane around the coolant passages., but i guess in todays world cant expect too much. Ill take it as a win anyways. Couple of The bolts holding it down to the heads barely came out, if they would of broke i dunno what i woulda done, so I cant complain too much
Could the bolt holes lineup without it sitting flush? I just did this and have a vacuum leak now
If you are talking about the bolt holes for the lower manifold and not another part, no I don't think that's possible. I think it's more likely that it's above that in the upper manifold/gasket, brake booster hose, MAP sensor, PCV hose, EVAP connection, EGR tube, etc.
I did it!!! 😮 Thanks for the video!
Awesome, congrats!!