Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere. We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price! Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos. Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here: www.boxer2valve.com/r906-16-steering-head-bearing-replacement-reseal-front-forks.html
Thank you very much for such clear, concise, informative video lessons! You present things in an eloquent and peaceful, relaxing manner. Some may say that you are the Bob Ross of airhead mechanics. I’ll be placing a large order on your website tomorrow.
First time I ever felt the need to comment on a video - and it's to say that you're doing a really great job with these. Every time I think 'I hope he does this, or shows that' you do! Keep up the good work folks - I wish you had a shop in Scotland!
Again, thank you for the great video! Always very helpful and inspires confidence in doing my own work. The best thing is that all the parts are available from one source.
Absolutely great videos, rebuilding my R80 pretty much solely on these! Another good way to reassemble the forks instead of using that plastic binder sheet is some thin feeler gages.
Its possible to remove the iner bearing with a brake piston extractor kit. The other more desperate way is to run a large bead of weld around the inside of the bearing face, when it cools it will fall out. Brilliant video , many thanks.
Before I put the rocker cover on I turn the motor over to ensure there is a good supply of oil to the rockers. This is the best way to check that the supply holes were not blocked off at the cylinder to block interface.
There is a less expensive way to pull steering head bearing races. Get a piece of 1/2" rod, rebar works. Cut a piece of the rod to fit centered in the bearing race. Weld the short pc to a foot long section, forming a tee. Insert the short pc into the race, connect the welding ground to the 1' pc. weld the rod to the race and lift it out.
Please confirm video. At 20 minutes you mentioned the clear colored bumper going up on top of the dampener but at 23 minutes you show putting it up the shaft of the dampener after it is installed. I believe the 23 minute mark is correct.
For some of the expensive special tools, you could "loan" like many auto supplies do these days. We pay for the tool when borrowed, then get a refund when returned in good shape, minus shipping of course.
Great series, William! Any chance you could share the part number on that Liquid Moli grease or any other brand you'd reccomend for stem bearings? Refreshing mine now. Thanks!
You probably already figured it out by now but in case others read this, he I and I both use the Liqui-Moly LM47. It's not called LM47 anymore though so just look for their "Long-Life Grease +MoS2" It's exactly the same and they just dropped the LM47 moniker.
I realize I'm a bit late to the party, but I was wondering if you could explain the function of the threaded rings with the spacer sandwiched in between (screwed in the bottom of the stanchion and secured with the snap ring). Is this some sort of check valve for the fork oil? Or is it there to secure the damper rod? Thank you for the great videos, they are immensely helpful!
Thanks for the awesome video, William! I watched it a couple times and thankfully caught your note about the damper bushing the second time. I know it's more work but could you embed a comment in the video at 19:50 that's it's the wrong placement? This would be helpful for people who maximize the video and miss your note.
Great tip! Unfortunately however, TH-cam no longer allows such modifications. We would need to delete the video an upload it again. We would lose all the comments but even worse, we no longer have the source files available.
It depends on the specific applications. In aluminum, I usually always do use heat but the steering head is steel and there is not a really tight interference fit so the bearings can go in cold in my opinion.
Hi. Cooling the bearings first is not a bad idea at all and it would not hurt to do so. The interference fit here is minimal and the bearings can be installed at room temperature as well.
Hello William, i and my friend lear lot from your videos, without it it would be impossible for us to do something. Thank you. Yesterday when we put the bearing shell into the frame it do not went straight in it, it was a litte bit skew. We put it out and saw a line in the frame where the shell comes in, small demaged from the skew shell, like a line with small debth. Is this dangeroaus? Could we put a new shell in it or can we put the old shell in (doesnot seems demaged). Thanks for the answer
Roger: If I understand correctly, the bearing made a mark because it did not go in straight. The bearing race may be distorted if if enough force was applied for the bearing to reave a mark. Best is to put in a new bearing but the frame should be fine.
Hello WilliamIt's certainly a bit tricky to find out exactly which parts go where in the front fork but regarding your correction I think there should be a "bush" or bumper BMW Part No 31422000384 where you showed it at 19.50 (and it has a bevelled edge which I think goes upwards though I stand to be corrected as I couldn't find this information and mine had completely disintegrated) and then the "ring" or bumper 31421231314 is as shown at 23.10.Best wishesRichard
Congratulations for these videos. Excellent explanation and great edition. I have made this operation last week in my BMW R100/7 and I have a question about the white plastic bumper (code 31422000384), that is the stopper for the fork extension. You have put 2 of these pieces in one leg (4 per motorbike). In BMW diagrams only appears one of this in lower position (2 per bike). This two bumpers, are really the same piece? Is is possible that one of these be the 31421234506? Last week I used the "plastic method" to introduce the pipe into the fork tube. I tested another option of this method: - Use only one turn of a 0,2mm thikness piece of plastic. - Introduce this into the tube but to the less diameter part of tube. - then introduce the pipe. - finally extract the plastic. In my case was very easy to introduce the pipe. Waiting for your next excellent video!!
Hi Joan, thanks for pointing this out. I made a mistake. At about 19:50 where I place the white bushing on the damping rod is simply wrong! Sorry about that! There are only two of the bumpers used, one per side. We have added a note to the video to point this out. I'm glad that the plastic trick worked for you! Thanks for your feedback.
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Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere.
We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price!
Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos.
Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here: www.boxer2valve.com/r906-16-steering-head-bearing-replacement-reseal-front-forks.html
I always learn a ton from you, William. You have a great teaching style.
Thank you very much for such clear, concise, informative video lessons! You present things in an eloquent and peaceful, relaxing manner. Some may say that you are the Bob Ross of airhead mechanics.
I’ll be placing a large order on your website tomorrow.
A natural teacher and great skill of hand, many thanks for doing these absolutely brilliant!
Man, I need that bearing puller!
A very well made video, clear, well explained and excellent video photography. You are a credit to your profession. Thank you!
Great instructional clip, and I love the soft sell " we just happen to sell this part "
Always a pleasure to watch a craftsman work. Thank you!
Thanks very much for the kind comment!
Awesome tutorial, filming and editing. Truly appreciate the options without specific tools too. Class act.
Keep up the great work. Subscribed.
Thanks very much!
First time I ever felt the need to comment on a video - and it's to say that you're doing a really great job with these. Every time I think 'I hope he does this, or shows that' you do! Keep up the good work folks - I wish you had a shop in Scotland!
Hi Christopher. We appreciate your comments.
Again, thank you for the great video! Always very helpful and inspires confidence in doing my own work. The best thing is that all the parts are available from one source.
Thanks Mike.
Wonderful series, very helpful for me (just bought a R75/6), thank you! Greetings from Belgium
Glad you like them!
Absolutely great videos, rebuilding my R80 pretty much solely on these! Another good way to reassemble the forks instead of using that plastic binder sheet is some thin feeler gages.
Hi Mason, That's true! There are almost always other ways and that's certainly one of them. Thanks for your input.
Very helpful with a lot of great tips!
Awesome, can´t wait for the next episode
Another Excellent video, Thank you!
Awesome to see you working! Thanks a lot for these videos! Really appreciate what you are doing
Thanks very much for your comments!
I love freeze the race .gors in like butter lol
Great job this video ! Many thanks
Glad you liked it!
Its possible to remove the iner bearing with a brake piston extractor kit. The other more desperate way is to run a large bead of weld around the inside of the bearing face, when it cools it will fall out. Brilliant video , many thanks.
That's true..... many ways to skin a cat! Thanks!
Before I put the rocker cover on I turn the motor over to ensure there is a good supply of oil to the rockers. This is the best way to check that the supply holes were not blocked off at the cylinder to block interface.
Yes, that is an excellent suggestion! Very good idea! Thank you.
There is a less expensive way to pull steering head bearing races. Get a piece of 1/2" rod, rebar works. Cut a piece of the rod to fit centered in the bearing race. Weld the short pc to a foot long section, forming a tee. Insert the short pc into the race, connect the welding ground to the 1' pc. weld the rod to the race and lift it out.
The old adage -- "A tool for everything"
Oh yeah ... so true.
You are the best!
wow .... thanks !
Please confirm video. At 20 minutes you mentioned the clear colored bumper going up on top of the dampener but at 23 minutes you show putting it up the shaft of the dampener after it is installed. I believe the 23 minute mark is correct.
For some of the expensive special tools, you could "loan" like many auto supplies do these days. We pay for the tool when borrowed, then get a refund when returned in good shape, minus shipping of course.
Great series, William! Any chance you could share the part number on that Liquid Moli grease or any other brand you'd reccomend for stem bearings? Refreshing mine now. Thanks!
You probably already figured it out by now but in case others read this, he I and I both use the Liqui-Moly LM47. It's not called LM47 anymore though so just look for their "Long-Life Grease +MoS2" It's exactly the same and they just dropped the LM47 moniker.
I realize I'm a bit late to the party, but I was wondering if you could explain the function of the threaded rings with the spacer sandwiched in between (screwed in the bottom of the stanchion and secured with the snap ring). Is this some sort of check valve for the fork oil? Or is it there to secure the damper rod? Thank you for the great videos, they are immensely helpful!
Thanks for the awesome video, William!
I watched it a couple times and thankfully caught your note about the damper bushing the second time. I know it's more work but could you embed a comment in the video at 19:50 that's it's the wrong placement?
This would be helpful for people who maximize the video and miss your note.
Great tip! Unfortunately however, TH-cam no longer allows such modifications. We would need to delete the video an upload it again. We would lose all the comments but even worse, we no longer have the source files available.
Hallo from Italy: just a question: you never use a bit of heat when you install new bearing races , is there a specific season?
It depends on the specific applications. In aluminum, I usually always do use heat but the steering head is steel and there is not a really tight interference fit so the bearings can go in cold in my opinion.
Don't need to cool down the outer bearings before installing? Does it help or prefer not to?
Hi. Cooling the bearings first is not a bad idea at all and it would not hurt to do so. The interference fit here is minimal and the bearings can be installed at room temperature as well.
Hello William, i and my friend lear lot from your videos, without it it would be impossible for us to do something. Thank you.
Yesterday when we put the bearing shell into the frame it do not went straight in it, it was a litte bit skew. We put it out and saw a line in the frame where the shell comes in, small demaged from the skew shell, like a line with small debth. Is this dangeroaus? Could we put a new shell in it or can we put the old shell in (doesnot seems demaged). Thanks for the answer
Roger: If I understand correctly, the bearing made a mark because it did not go in straight. The bearing race may be distorted if if enough force was applied for the bearing to reave a mark. Best is to put in a new bearing but the frame should be fine.
Hey, I am having trouble trying to unscrew the nut that’s inside the fork, any tips? I’ve tried a few different things but it won’t budge.
Hello Authur, I assume you are trying to break the base bolt free. Try putting some heat on it with heat gun or a torch. That should break it loose.
It would be nice if these video's could be made into a DVD version that could be purchased, just a thought!
Good thought about making them as a full compilation on DVD, but we like to offer these videos as a free service.
Hello WilliamIt's certainly a bit tricky to find out exactly which parts go where in the front fork but regarding your correction I think there should be a "bush" or bumper BMW Part No 31422000384 where you showed it at 19.50 (and it has a bevelled edge which I think goes upwards though I stand to be corrected as I couldn't find this information and mine had completely disintegrated) and then the "ring" or bumper 31421231314 is as shown at 23.10.Best wishesRichard
Thanks for your comments!
Congratulations for these videos. Excellent explanation and great edition.
I have made this operation last week in my BMW R100/7 and I have a question about the white plastic bumper (code 31422000384), that is the stopper for the fork extension. You have put 2 of these pieces in one leg (4 per motorbike). In BMW diagrams only appears one of this in lower position (2 per bike).
This two bumpers, are really the same piece?
Is is possible that one of these be the 31421234506?
Last week I used the "plastic method" to introduce the pipe into the fork tube. I tested another option of this method:
- Use only one turn of a 0,2mm thikness piece of plastic.
- Introduce this into the tube but to the less diameter part of tube.
- then introduce the pipe.
- finally extract the plastic.
In my case was very easy to introduce the pipe.
Waiting for your next excellent video!!
Hi Joan, thanks for pointing this out. I made a mistake. At about 19:50 where I place the white bushing on the damping rod is simply wrong! Sorry about that! There are only two of the bumpers used, one per side. We have added a note to the video to point this out. I'm glad that the plastic trick worked for you! Thanks for your feedback.
What size is the puller you've used? 21-6 or 21-7?
We use the 21-6 for removing the steering head bearings
@@boxer2valve and what size the extractor is? 22-4? 22-5?
What do you charge for labor to do these bearings?
We specialize in 2 valve boxers. Our shop rate is $100 per hour.
boxer2valve BMW Restoration and Parts Supplier how long of a job is it to do the bearings? What is your labor time?
How many hours do you typically charge for this job?
Herr Plamm, Sie sind Arihead-Mechanikermeister. Wir müssen einen neuen Friseur für Sie finden
guys you'll never believe who broke their tool because the bumper got stuck to it
im the idiot
Disappointed with the sound levels on this production.Very low 🦻🦻🦻