Big thank you from Germany! My 2.5mm cutter broke after approximately 1,000 counters only. I repaired it using your instructions and it works again fine!
Hello, thank you very much for this exellent repair video. My cutter broke after a short time of use but I was able to rerair it following your instuctions. Great!😃
Just wanted to say thank you, again. I followed the instructions this weekend and repaired my 2 mm punch. It is too early to say how long the repair will last, but I managed to finish the game that was half trimmed. Couldn't have done it without your video!
You are very welcome. I did have one break that I had repaired (after approximately another 10,000 clips), but it was below where the screw was located. So, on the last one I repaired, I used a 2 inch screw to reinforce it further down.
I'm not exactly sure what diameter it was (maybe I mention it in the video - will have to check). However, I recommend the smallest diameter you can find. Worst case if it's too big it might bust out of the side of the hole a little bit, but if you use the epoxy, even that probably won't be much of an issue.
Wow, that's really quick on the breakage. I can usually get several thousand clips (~10,000 or so), before my break. Hopefully, the repair works for you.
My clipper also broke around the 10000 counter mark too. I managed to repair mine according to your directions. Thank you. Buyers of this clipper may well be advised to insert a screw from the get go as opposed to waiting for the inevitable break to happen. I did note that the part that broke had a channel running on the back of front of it. I did not see why it had these features. Normally this is done to save weight and or material but neither of these makes any sense due to the item made and the material being used. The only thing the channels do it weaken the piece and provides a smaller surface to insert the screw into. Too bad they did not make this part out of metal or at least reinforced it with a band of some sort. Plastic is not the best material to use in a high stress location. One wonders if this was done intentionally in an otherwise solid product.
I just wanted to add that I did the repair and it did not hold long I may have not done it. However I'm grossly disappointed in this product Clipping counters may not be the designed intent of this item however and otherwise stop looking design obviously has a flaw in its design by having a weak point After paying 60 some-odd dollars for this item well what can I say I think I shell contact the company and let them know that their product is not as durable as they may think
Yes, I agree - I think in the next one I buy (if there is a next time), I'll install a screw as soon as I get it. Thank you and glad the video was helpful!
Hi John - sorry it didn't work for you. I've heard from various sources that they did design it for counter clipping, but this part does seem to be a weak spot. Not sure what went wrong on your repair, but mine have held up for 1,000 of clips after the repair. Maybe you missed that little bit of plastic when drilling? It's a pretty small target.
Drilling the hole can be problematic. When mine broke, I drilled the hole slightly off and the screw didn't hold. I was forced to completely fill the void with Double Bubble (you can use any other suitable material) and re-drill. Hindsight being 20/20, fill the void before you glue the two pieces together, then drill - alignment shouldn't be an issue then.
I totally agree that drilling the hole is the most difficult part. I messed up on the drilling one time and the screw was bulging out slightly. I formed a fillet of epoxy where it was bulging and it's still going strong now. If I did a lot more of these repairs than I do, I would create a jig for a drill press to get the right angle every time. Filling the void beforehand is also a really good idea. Just check to make sure it's not interfering with any movement.
Well, I wouldn't say that. For me (your mileage may vary) I usually clip about 10,000 counters before mine break. Keeping in mind that each counter takes 4 clips, that's about 40,000 clips before the handles have broken. Then, I repair them and usually get close to another 40,000 clips or so out of them. Pretty good for the money.
What about replacing the spring with something a lot less stiff? Would that perhaps help the stock model last longer? Mine broke after only 2 months. What a shame the Chinese tend to build things that last just long enough to be outside the return period :(
Very good video. I just bought mine, is there a way to prevent this from happening? I saw that some put something under the handle to limit its stroke? Would this preserve it?
Thank you. I've read some people speculating that limiting the stroke might help with preventing them from breaking. However, I'm not really sure one way or another. The one thing I've debated about with myself is doing the repair in this video before it breaks to help strengthen it; I think that would probably work until it breaks in another place that is more difficult (or impossible) to repair.
I posted something on BGG about one of the brass rings surrounding the right post/guide popping out from the plastic housing. Have you had that problem before? I'm going to use some cyanoacrylate adhesive to try to seat that ring back where it's supposed to go. But THANK YOU for showing this thing unassembled so I can go ahead and take it apart for an easier repair and a good cleaning before assembling it again.
Hi Nick - Sorry I haven't responded earlier. I'm just now seeing the post on this video (need to start checking things more regularly). Yes, on one of mine I was having that problem and I think I did exactly what you are referring to - add a drop of CA to it. Glad the video was helpful!
@@daddavegaming6612 No need to apologize and yes, it is extremely helpful. My clipper hasn't broken yet but since it is a known and common issue, being forewarned is being forearmed!
For this video, I believe it was a #6 screw. However, I've repaired several since this video and have used various sizes. The last one I used was a #8 screw which was 2 inches long. However, the smaller the screw, the easier it is to hit the area you need to hit with the drill. For the drill bit, I just find one that is slightly smaller than the screw - I'm not sure what size it was.
Ok, thanks. I used a #6 with an inch and a quarter length. However, it didn't work for me, so I might try a longer screw, maybe an inch and a half. I've been trying to clean mine and all I could find was industrial strength "Blaster Silicone Lubricant Spray" at Home Depot/Lowes. Is that all that is needed? Cuz it doesn't seem to help and continues to squeak and the copper cylinders that are on top come out.
The screw needs to be long enough to go past where the crack is located by a good bit. As I mentioned, the last screw I used was 2 inches long. I had the same problem with the copper cylinders popping out of the latest one I bought and it continued to squeak after lubrication. Here's what I did: First, I epoxied the cylinders in (on one, the epoxy didn't seem to work, so I superglued it). Then the action was binding up, so I took my drill and reamed out the inside of the copper cylinders and lubricated again. That allowed everything to move without binding and got rid of the squeak.
Thank you for the video! My punch broke this evening. I didn't go through more than 3,000 counters, and probably closer to 2,500. You used a 2 inch long #8 screw. I'm concerned about missing the area, I'm assuming that a 2 inch #6 will work. Is that fair?
Yes, a 2 inch #6 would be better than a #8 - I just couldn't find a #6 that long. I did find a mechanical screw that is very narrow that would probably work great as well, but haven't tried it.
Hi Mark - So sorry it's taken so long to respond. I thought about trying that method of drilling before gluing, but I couldn't figure out how to line the holes up properly that way.
After that many extreme clippings, why did you not reach out to Oregon and see if that portion of the handle could be ordered as a spare rebuild part? Surely they would want to support their product reputation.
HI Jeff - Sorry, just saw your comment. I did reach out to them and can't remember exactly what they said, but I believe that they offered to sell me another one at a slightly reduced costs. I believe they said they didn't have extra parts.
Hi Max - That's great to know! Mine all seem to work great up to about the 10,000 clip point (hard to believe the number of counters I've clipped, but it goes fast; plus it's easy to watch TV, listen to Audible, etc. while clipping).
Good question. First, I have a couple of different sizes. Also, I had broken a few and bought new ones before it dawned on me that I could repair the broken ones. If I had figured that out earlier, I probably would only have two of them.
I'm just getting ready to complete this repair process and it seems like you are giving mixed information on the most important part, the screw size. In the video, you use a 1" long #4, in the comments you mention using a 1.5 or 2" long #6. The 2' one would be almost a long as the whole 'arm' of the piece we are trying to repair. The crack is just over 0.5" from the top (every one I have seen breaks in the same place, right at the 90 degree angle) so anything over an inch would seem to cover it. Looking for some clarification here, I have a couple #6 screws, one is 1.5" long and the other is 2". The other problem with the 2" one is that I don't know of a drill bit that small 5/64" that is going to be long enough to drill a 2" pilot hole. It's been a couple of years since you made the video, has each of them held up?
Hi Fragfritz - On the question of screw size, I originally used a screw just long enough to fix the crack, which always seems to crack about 1/2" from the top (as you mention). After several thousand more clips (probably close to 10,000 or so clips) that particular clipper broke again lower down that arm (below where I made the repair). So, on the next one, I used a longer screw in order to prevent any future cracks. So, to answer your question, either will work - the shorter the screw, the easier it is to line up; the longer the screw, the more probable that it will prevent future cracks. Yes, all the repairs have held up great. As I mention, the only problem has been additional breaks below the repair (in fact, I clipped quite a few counters tonight with one of my repaired clippers). The next one I get, I'll probably get one of those really thin, long machine screws and extend it as far down the arm as possible to hopefully prevent any cracks.
On, and I forgot I also used a dry wall screw on one, just to experiment. It worked as well, although it busted out of the side of the arm a little. But, I just added a little epoxy to what was already on the screw and it's been working great (that's the one I was using tonight). So, screw size isn't as critical as you might think and just about anything will work.
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Eight years later this is still a valuable video to watch. Thanks for posting.
Big thank you from Germany! My 2.5mm cutter broke after approximately 1,000 counters only. I repaired it using your instructions and it works again fine!
That's great! Glad it worked for you. Happy clipping!
Hello, thank you very much for this exellent repair video. My cutter broke after a short time of use but I was able to rerair it following your instuctions. Great!😃
You are welcome. Glad it worked for you!
Just wanted to say thank you, again. I followed the instructions this weekend and repaired my 2 mm punch. It is too early to say how long the repair will last, but I managed to finish the game that was half trimmed. Couldn't have done it without your video!
You are very welcome. I did have one break that I had repaired (after approximately another 10,000 clips), but it was below where the screw was located. So, on the last one I repaired, I used a 2 inch screw to reinforce it further down.
@@daddavegaming6612
What diameter screw you used Number 4 or 6 pan head?
I'm not exactly sure what diameter it was (maybe I mention it in the video - will have to check). However, I recommend the smallest diameter you can find. Worst case if it's too big it might bust out of the side of the hole a little bit, but if you use the epoxy, even that probably won't be much of an issue.
Thanks for the guide. Mine broke after only about 800 counters. What an inept design! Hoping to try your repair method tomorrow.
Wow, that's really quick on the breakage. I can usually get several thousand clips (~10,000 or so), before my break. Hopefully, the repair works for you.
Thank you very much, mine broke at less than 1000 counters, but its now working perfect with your fix.
You're welcome! I'm really glad it helped fix it!
My clipper also broke around the 10000 counter mark too. I managed to repair mine according to your directions. Thank you.
Buyers of this clipper may well be advised to insert a screw from the get go as opposed to waiting for the inevitable break to happen.
I did note that the part that broke had a channel running on the back of front of it. I did not see why it had these features. Normally this is done to save weight and or material but neither of these makes any sense due to the item made and the material being used. The only thing the channels do it weaken the piece and provides a smaller surface to insert the screw into. Too bad they did not make this part out of metal or at least reinforced it with a band of some sort.
Plastic is not the best material to use in a high stress location.
One wonders if this was done intentionally in an otherwise solid product.
I just wanted to add that I did the repair and it did not hold long
I may have not done it. However I'm grossly disappointed in this product
Clipping counters may not be the designed intent of this item
however and otherwise stop looking design obviously has a flaw in its design by having a weak point
After paying 60 some-odd dollars for this item well what can I say
I think I shell contact the company and let them know that their product is not as durable as they may think
Yes, I agree - I think in the next one I buy (if there is a next time), I'll install a screw as soon as I get it. Thank you and glad the video was helpful!
Hi John - sorry it didn't work for you. I've heard from various sources that they did design it for counter clipping, but this part does seem to be a weak spot. Not sure what went wrong on your repair, but mine have held up for 1,000 of clips after the repair. Maybe you missed that little bit of plastic when drilling? It's a pretty small target.
Thank you!!! Well done and explained very well.
That's great to hear Steven. Glad it was helpful!
Drilling the hole can be problematic. When mine broke, I drilled the hole slightly off and the screw didn't hold. I was forced to completely fill the void with Double Bubble (you can use any other suitable material) and re-drill. Hindsight being 20/20, fill the void before you glue the two pieces together, then drill - alignment shouldn't be an issue then.
I totally agree that drilling the hole is the most difficult part. I messed up on the drilling one time and the screw was bulging out slightly. I formed a fillet of epoxy where it was bulging and it's still going strong now. If I did a lot more of these repairs than I do, I would create a jig for a drill press to get the right angle every time. Filling the void beforehand is also a really good idea. Just check to make sure it's not interfering with any movement.
So, basically, it's not fit for purpose?
Well, I wouldn't say that. For me (your mileage may vary) I usually clip about 10,000 counters before mine break. Keeping in mind that each counter takes 4 clips, that's about 40,000 clips before the handles have broken. Then, I repair them and usually get close to another 40,000 clips or so out of them. Pretty good for the money.
What about replacing the spring with something a lot less stiff? Would that perhaps help the stock model last longer? Mine broke after only 2 months. What a shame the Chinese tend to build things that last just long enough to be outside the return period :(
Very good video. I just bought mine, is there a way to prevent this from happening? I saw that some put something under the handle to limit its stroke? Would this preserve it?
Thank you. I've read some people speculating that limiting the stroke might help with preventing them from breaking. However, I'm not really sure one way or another. The one thing I've debated about with myself is doing the repair in this video before it breaks to help strengthen it; I think that would probably work until it breaks in another place that is more difficult (or impossible) to repair.
I posted something on BGG about one of the brass rings surrounding the right post/guide popping out from the plastic housing. Have you had that problem before? I'm going to use some cyanoacrylate adhesive to try to seat that ring back where it's supposed to go. But THANK YOU for showing this thing unassembled so I can go ahead and take it apart for an easier repair and a good cleaning before assembling it again.
Hi Nick - Sorry I haven't responded earlier. I'm just now seeing the post on this video (need to start checking things more regularly). Yes, on one of mine I was having that problem and I think I did exactly what you are referring to - add a drop of CA to it. Glad the video was helpful!
thanks, I repaired my Oregon and it´s working again
That's great! Mines still going strong, so they last quite a while after repairs. I'll probably do a follow up video soon.
thankyou
Great info. Thanks for posting!
Hi Vincnet - Sorry it's taken so long to respond. No problem - hope the video was helpful!
@@daddavegaming6612 No need to apologize and yes, it is extremely helpful. My clipper hasn't broken yet but since it is a known and common issue, being forewarned is being forearmed!
What size of screw and drill bit did you use?
For this video, I believe it was a #6 screw. However, I've repaired several since this video and have used various sizes. The last one I used was a #8 screw which was 2 inches long. However, the smaller the screw, the easier it is to hit the area you need to hit with the drill. For the drill bit, I just find one that is slightly smaller than the screw - I'm not sure what size it was.
Ok, thanks. I used a #6 with an inch and a quarter length. However, it didn't work for me, so I might try a longer screw, maybe an inch and a half. I've been trying to clean mine and all I could find was industrial strength "Blaster Silicone Lubricant Spray" at Home Depot/Lowes. Is that all that is needed? Cuz it doesn't seem to help and continues to squeak and the copper cylinders that are on top come out.
The screw needs to be long enough to go past where the crack is located by a good bit. As I mentioned, the last screw I used was 2 inches long. I had the same problem with the copper cylinders popping out of the latest one I bought and it continued to squeak after lubrication. Here's what I did: First, I epoxied the cylinders in (on one, the epoxy didn't seem to work, so I superglued it). Then the action was binding up, so I took my drill and reamed out the inside of the copper cylinders and lubricated again. That allowed everything to move without binding and got rid of the squeak.
Thank you for the video! My punch broke this evening. I didn't go through more than 3,000 counters, and probably closer to 2,500. You used a 2 inch long #8 screw. I'm concerned about missing the area, I'm assuming that a 2 inch #6 will work. Is that fair?
Yes, a 2 inch #6 would be better than a #8 - I just couldn't find a #6 that long. I did find a mechanical screw that is very narrow that would probably work great as well, but haven't tried it.
Has anyone tried to drill the holes before you glue the two pieces together?
Hi Mark - So sorry it's taken so long to respond. I thought about trying that method of drilling before gluing, but I couldn't figure out how to line the holes up properly that way.
After that many extreme clippings, why did you not reach out to Oregon and see if that portion of the handle could be ordered as a spare rebuild part? Surely they would want to support their product reputation.
HI Jeff - Sorry, just saw your comment. I did reach out to them and can't remember exactly what they said, but I believe that they offered to sell me another one at a slightly reduced costs. I believe they said they didn't have extra parts.
Mine is still work but this was VERY handy to find just in case.
Hi Max - That's great to know! Mine all seem to work great up to about the 10,000 clip point (hard to believe the number of counters I've clipped, but it goes fast; plus it's easy to watch TV, listen to Audible, etc. while clipping).
thanks, worked for me too !
Thanks Phillipe - glad your clipper is working again!
Why do you buy news ones if you can fix the old ones ?
Good question. First, I have a couple of different sizes. Also, I had broken a few and bought new ones before it dawned on me that I could repair the broken ones. If I had figured that out earlier, I probably would only have two of them.
Thx for your answer. I just broke mine and I will try your method tomorrow !
Great. Just take your time and you'll be fine; it's really not that difficult.
I'm just getting ready to complete this repair process and it seems like you are giving mixed information on the most important part, the screw size. In the video, you use a 1" long #4, in the comments you mention using a 1.5 or 2" long #6. The 2' one would be almost a long as the whole 'arm' of the piece we are trying to repair. The crack is just over 0.5" from the top (every one I have seen breaks in the same place, right at the 90 degree angle) so anything over an inch would seem to cover it. Looking for some clarification here, I have a couple #6 screws, one is 1.5" long and the other is 2". The other problem with the 2" one is that I don't know of a drill bit that small 5/64" that is going to be long enough to drill a 2" pilot hole. It's been a couple of years since you made the video, has each of them held up?
Hi Fragfritz - On the question of screw size, I originally used a screw just long enough to fix the crack, which always seems to crack about 1/2" from the top (as you mention). After several thousand more clips (probably close to 10,000 or so clips) that particular clipper broke again lower down that arm (below where I made the repair). So, on the next one, I used a longer screw in order to prevent any future cracks. So, to answer your question, either will work - the shorter the screw, the easier it is to line up; the longer the screw, the more probable that it will prevent future cracks. Yes, all the repairs have held up great. As I mention, the only problem has been additional breaks below the repair (in fact, I clipped quite a few counters tonight with one of my repaired clippers). The next one I get, I'll probably get one of those really thin, long machine screws and extend it as far down the arm as possible to hopefully prevent any cracks.
On, and I forgot I also used a dry wall screw on one, just to experiment. It worked as well, although it busted out of the side of the arm a little. But, I just added a little epoxy to what was already on the screw and it's been working great (that's the one I was using tonight). So, screw size isn't as critical as you might think and just about anything will work.