1 battery VS a full size residential fridge. Runtime with NO solar? DJLBERMPW 24v Lifepo4
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 เม.ย. 2024
- #DJLBERMPW #lifepo4 #offgrid
Links below for some of the items in this video I tested.
DJLBERMPW 24v LifePo4 battery
amzn.to/4aLfn7N
djdcpower.com/
Giandel 24v 3000w pure sine inverter
amzn.to/3JuwFK9
Battery shunt monitor
amzn.to/4aK2kTV - บันเทิง
Just subscribed to the channel. Love your test. Keep up the great work.
Thank you👍🏻👍🏻
Exactly the test and battery I was interested in
Thanks for sharing 👍
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I've done this in past power outages. What I've found is that one wants to use the smallest inverter that is still able to start the fridge's compressor, otherwise the vampire consumption of the inverter is going to be a significant portion of the total energy used. Usually a modern fridge will run fine with a 800W low-frequency inverter. Even a 500W LF inverter, depending on the inverter.
Remember, inverters do have a 2x or 3x surge capability vs their rating. A high frequency inverter can usually surge around 2x while a low frequency inverter can usually surge around 3x. As long as it can start the compressor without tripping off, you are on solid ground since the actual running wattage is a lot lower.
Great Test!
-Matt
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Brian, Thanks for the test. This should make people to start thinking about their own fridge. Some will run more efficient, and some won't. Using a watt meter to measure those items you want to keep running during a power outage is a smart idea. Thanks again
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Since you have reviewed like a dozen 12v batterys, It would be cool to see 4 100ah 12V batteries in parallel - Fridge test 2.0
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I have bought one of this green box battery 24V. It performed amazing.
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I did a review of one of their 12v 100AH batteries. I was impressed.
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My highest wattage is when my Refrigerator went into defrost mode. With the compressor starting up. A Refrigerator is not a sample electrical thing. But so needed. Also in your test the Refrigerator is in the Garage. A bit more heat than what the Kitchen may be. Thumbs up 👍.
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Very cool! Nice video! In a real power loss situation you would have been opening and closing fridge quite a few times so actual run time would be significantly reduced.
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clean and nice setup 👌
Thanks👍🏻
Very cool, Looks like a solid battery. I'll check out their listing. Thanks!
Thanks bud👍🏻👍🏻
after 3:57 you see the Amp goes up from 0.80A to 22.50A when the compressor starts up and then drops down to 6.5A. BTW, the fridge will use more Wh/day if you have the ice maker on.
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Yesterday I did a similar test with 1 LifePo4 100ah battery conneced to my Bluetti AC180 to my full size fridge.
I was so impressed I purchased another AC180 and another battery for my other fridge. Lol 😂
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You really do some exciting stuff on the weekends. LOL. Do you think you would get similar results with a 200Ah 12v battery. I realize the capacity is the same but you mentioned the 24v might be more efficient.
lol. We get crazy over here😂
Yep, the defrost mode will use the highest wattage burning that heating element . Victron inverters have a higher efficiency rate. Do your homework on the most efficient inverters.
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do you also need to make sure the discharge current of the battery is ample for the com pressor draw?
Yes, but typically any 100amp battery should be more than adequate for a standard fridge
My fridge (and other stuff) runs full time on two 100ah LiFePo4 batteries charged by 1350 watts of panels.
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Im looking at the Giandel 24 volt 4000 watt inverter for a fridge and portable ac unit. Do you think it'll handle the load? I like that shunt you have.
Yes, that size would easily run this setup
That's just over 81% which isn't bad, but also isn't great. Better quality inverters will deliver 85% or so.
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Is this truck 24V battery?