Great job. Wonderful discussion and describing everything. One comment is on the exhaust I didn’t see ball joints. For expansion and to give movement they will help stop pipe cracks and failure.
Thanks for watching! As for exhaust ball joints, I think you're talking about the Hal Hunt exhaust pipes (don't quote me). My pipes are from Custom Aircraft Parts, which uses slip sleeves and springs to provide expansion and mitigates any cracking from stress.
Haha... yep, my Neanderthal video production at work with pretty much one shot filming and then editing a bunch out. I like to document the build for myself and others, but would rather be building so I hack my way through it! Thanks for watching. Cheers!
At 10:43, I can't see if the strap holding the breather to the exhausts is retained. After I moved my breather to the left side (to accommodate a larger cabin heat shroud on the right), I had this strap break on the first post-maintenance test flight and go through my BRAND NEW Catto prop. I've since moved those straps forward of the baffling, so if they were to break, they won't go through the prop again. I have also seen people put an L-bracket on the baffling and safety wire the straps to those brackets, I'm planning to add this as well. Can't tell if you have anything like that or not.
Yikes! Interesting, I have not heard of that happening before, but (yes) probably good insurance to safety wire that hose clamp, which I do on all of them around the screw jack. I loaded up a Fillister head screw in my next ACS order and plan to replace one of my exhaust pipe bracket screws to give me a wire tie-off point on the aft baffle wall. Thanks for the advice. BTW, love your channel!
Thanks Bro! I always layup a ply of BID or UNI in between any aluminum and carbon fiber. For any aluminum or stainless steel rivets I normally hit them with auto primer the day before using and then slather the rivet holes with a bit of pure epoxy before installing the rivets. I have no idea if that actually does the anti-corrosion job I need it to, but it sure makes me feel a heck of a lot better about it all! :D
good to see and well done,... excuse an ignorant question though,... what are the holes on the aft of the main spar about where the strake meets the wing? (see 37:20)
Thank you! Those are the access holes for the outer wing bolt holes. There's one hole on the top of the wing each side and one right below it on the bottom of the wing. Those holes get covered with very thin aluminum plates after paint. The third wing bolt is inboard in the wing root and accessed via the engine compartment. Thanks for watching.
@@wade-airdog7730 I attached those plates with silicone, but after several removals and installations, the aluminum plates are not so flat anymore, so I replaced them with some carbon fiber ones. I saw a Cozy at Rough River this year that had used thick adhesive vinyl sheet instead - easy to take off and replace, and even less profile in the airstream than the aluminum or carbon. I may try that next time.
I decided on 2-ply carbon fiber at first, to keep them thin, light and rigid. Probably about the same weight as aluminum, but much more robust and less easily damaged than the same thickness of aluminum. I read that when attaching with silicone the way to remove them is with fishing line... I haven't tried it yet. Also, on COBA Gary Hertzler and others have recommended using iron-on material made for covering RC planes. I may try that in the future as well if the CF covers prove to be a pain to remove. Thanks for watching!
Wow.. nice to see everything is on track. Love to see its first flight!
Charging forward at a snail's pace... ha! Hopefully not too much longer before first flight. Thanks for watching!
That looks really good!
Thanks Jim!
Great work!!! Very cool
Thanks!
Great job. Wonderful discussion and describing everything. One comment is on the exhaust I didn’t see ball joints. For expansion and to give movement they will help stop pipe cracks and failure.
Thanks for watching! As for exhaust ball joints, I think you're talking about the Hal Hunt exhaust pipes (don't quote me). My pipes are from Custom Aircraft Parts, which uses slip sleeves and springs to provide expansion and mitigates any cracking from stress.
@@wade-airdog7730 you are correct on Hal Hunt. Your good
Thanks for sharing your engineering. Great fitting. Your really staying busy on this one.
Yes, definitely staying busy on this bird. Thanks for watching!
I love the cut before you say 'FOAM FORM' clearly after what I'm guessing was 1 too many mispronunciations. Nice build.🤣
Haha... yep, my Neanderthal video production at work with pretty much one shot filming and then editing a bunch out. I like to document the build for myself and others, but would rather be building so I hack my way through it! Thanks for watching. Cheers!
what an awesome build. Cant wait to see it in person.
Thanks Jamie! I can't wait to see it finished! ;)
@@wade-airdog7730 Olá, sou Jackson do Brasil, tô montando um projeto de ultraleve, me responde, esse avião é totalmente de fibra de carbono?
thanks for the update. awesome progress
Thanks! And thanks for watching.
Don’t forget to isolate any carbon parts from the SS fasteners with TefGel to avoid corrosion
Thanks! Yes, as great as carbon fiber is, that is the main sticky wicket is keeping other metals isolated. Will do!
Great update.
Thanks!
At 10:43, I can't see if the strap holding the breather to the exhausts is retained. After I moved my breather to the left side (to accommodate a larger cabin heat shroud on the right), I had this strap break on the first post-maintenance test flight and go through my BRAND NEW Catto prop. I've since moved those straps forward of the baffling, so if they were to break, they won't go through the prop again. I have also seen people put an L-bracket on the baffling and safety wire the straps to those brackets, I'm planning to add this as well. Can't tell if you have anything like that or not.
Yikes! Interesting, I have not heard of that happening before, but (yes) probably good insurance to safety wire that hose clamp, which I do on all of them around the screw jack. I loaded up a Fillister head screw in my next ACS order and plan to replace one of my exhaust pipe bracket screws to give me a wire tie-off point on the aft baffle wall. Thanks for the advice. BTW, love your channel!
@@wade-airdog7730 Thanks! BTW Your workmanship on this plane is outstanding, it looks amazing!
Thanks!
Very cool Wade, I like it. What if any precaution did you take to minimize corrosion where the aluminum and carbon fiber ramps meet?
Thanks Bro! I always layup a ply of BID or UNI in between any aluminum and carbon fiber. For any aluminum or stainless steel rivets I normally hit them with auto primer the day before using and then slather the rivet holes with a bit of pure epoxy before installing the rivets. I have no idea if that actually does the anti-corrosion job I need it to, but it sure makes me feel a heck of a lot better about it all! :D
@ nice! 👍🏻
good to see and well done,... excuse an ignorant question though,... what are the holes on the aft of the main spar about where the strake meets the wing? (see 37:20)
Thank you! Those are the access holes for the outer wing bolt holes. There's one hole on the top of the wing each side and one right below it on the bottom of the wing. Those holes get covered with very thin aluminum plates after paint. The third wing bolt is inboard in the wing root and accessed via the engine compartment. Thanks for watching.
@@wade-airdog7730 I attached those plates with silicone, but after several removals and installations, the aluminum plates are not so flat anymore, so I replaced them with some carbon fiber ones. I saw a Cozy at Rough River this year that had used thick adhesive vinyl sheet instead - easy to take off and replace, and even less profile in the airstream than the aluminum or carbon. I may try that next time.
I decided on 2-ply carbon fiber at first, to keep them thin, light and rigid. Probably about the same weight as aluminum, but much more robust and less easily damaged than the same thickness of aluminum. I read that when attaching with silicone the way to remove them is with fishing line... I haven't tried it yet. Also, on COBA Gary Hertzler and others have recommended using iron-on material made for covering RC planes. I may try that in the future as well if the CF covers prove to be a pain to remove. Thanks for watching!