I heard you say you use this method for half a mile stretches? Thats impressive. We need to fence 1700ft on one side of our property (3 sides already fenced). I have watched a ton of videos and yours was very informative and straight to the point. Thanks!
Watched you on StoneyRidge Farmer. I had to subscribe to your channel. Your knowledge is amazing and have learned a lot. Thanks and Be Safe and Take Care.
Thanks for the vid. I have strained 200m+ 14 linewire deer netting by tieing a tempory loop in one end with bail twine, stuck a wooden post through the loop and used a snig chain and tractor to apply tension. Only works with wooden posts though because you staple the line wires to the straining post in front of the knots before cutting & tieing off. Certain post treatments can cause the wires to rust at the staples, but you can certainly put the strain on this way.
I'm a city boy with absolutely no connection to this - but I find it fascinating! Looks like your work is really thorough and you present it very well. I'll watch more! Why does he sound so familiar at points?? Finally figured it out - Karl Childers (the character's name in "Slingblade" - must be same part of the country?).
Fine tidy looking job.i like the steel fence posts.they will last forever.was thinking of changing all my strainer posts from timber to steel.sick of having to dig them up when they rot.from ireland
How long are the strainers lasting for you? I just fitted some 4” pt round posts as strainers and wondering what their life expectancy is here. Cheers, north county Dublin
That steel post that grips the fence with wedges looked pretty good and the tensioner as well. Heard a lot of bad things about the Gripple fasteners tho. Not reuseable and may let go over time. I have a problem with barbed wire as the deer always break one wire when running and once one wire is gone there may as well be no fence to contain animals. So we are slowly switching over to woven wire.
Gripples are reusable, and we do not see the failures you speak of. The Gripple Plus is much improved over the original version, which would let moisture in and caused a failure once it froze up. Thanks for watchin!
I really enjoyed the video it had a lot information and made a lot of common sense again I really appreciate you taking the time to make the video I will be contacting Farm fence Solutions
Nice video, straight to the point. It made me laugh though: "These are the (forget the brand) strainers..... this is a brand new set." *immeaditly drops it in the dirt* 😂
I'm up on the NY/Ontario border. I've never seen a welded steel fence post system or high tensile woven wire. Up here it's local cedar and maybe locust. I wonder how they'd react to frost 2-3 feet deep? Looks very expensive, but very, very sturdy. Well done.
Typically, here in Texas, I drive my posts 4 feet down but depending on the soil type where I’m building, I can drive them down 6 feet. So I’m sure if someone wanted to in your area, with the right tools, they could set them to handle whatever y’alls winter frost line is. On average, our “frost line” is 18 inches, but I’d say we don’t have a winter like that but maybe every 10 years or so to even reach that.
I swear I've watched this video at least five times! 😊 It has SO much useful information! I am making a deer fence so I can grow fruit trees without them getting devoured. In the video you mention that it's possible to use just the gripple tool to tension a shorter length of fence... How short exactly? My longest run is 80' and I'm wondering if I can skip investing in the strainers and board. Thank you very much!
The test patch…. Long distance posts… I know this is super old it but looks like that would work for alpaca, minus the hot wire on top. Have you had any clients try it? They don’t really challenge fence line so I’m thinking this spacing would be fine. How’s the fence holding up? Wish you were in Eastern Washington
Thanks! We use 11 gauge post ties, that twist on with a cordless drill. (Available from Farm Fence Solutions) We have a pipe fence video coming soon, where they will be displayed in more detail.
I would have tighten, then tied it down to a good post. Once you cut that fence, you will always have a weak spot there. I like your chain pullers though. I always pinch my fingers using come-a-longs.
So there are many ways to cut a fence or to stretch and tie one off. This particular method was to demonstrate a gut strain, which is a very common practice for us on extremely long runs, where multiple rolls of fence are joined together. With the use of a crimp sleeve, no strength is lost. With the use of figure 8 or Tex Brown knots, plenty of strength is retained. This use of Gripples was intended to be a tutorial for those who like or need them, such as a DIY farm/ranch project. We often stretch to an end, but not always. Thanks for watching!
Very useful video,, thank you for your informations, Let me know please how did you call the tools at 7'20'' and after, the ones that work with the chains,,,Many thanks
When I am watching a video and I know the person is doing it right. Then I look over and see how many idiots clicked the, "I am a dumb ass" thumbs down button. Yup, 10% of the population are dumb asses. Thanks for the video.
I'm also from West Coast of Washington state, it depends on alot of factors wood vs steel and longevity. With wood and the amount of rain that we receive, soil density, rock pack depth, type of wood used, treated or non treated very on longevity, I've seen wood posts last a 3years to 15years it all depends on how much time you want to put into them in the preparation. The same goes for steel posts in the climate in the PNW you can make them last longer if you want it's all about time vs money I'm a industrial coatings and concrete inspector by trade but have lived in a small hick town most of my life.
Is it best to but the welded wire on the Inside so if it's pushed or lean against from the inside it can hold more pressure. Or is best on the outer part?
That is Tornado Titan fixed knot woven wire, which is different than welded wire.....But, it makes absolutely no difference on a properly installed fence which side of the post the wire is on. Thanks!
i'll be fencing my yard and wanted to use tornado wire with steel posts. it will be square shaped roughly 100x100. could this be tensioned with a gut strain?
this guy is a professional. nice work. Now how to put a concrete post in rather wet underground? Dig a hole fairly bigger than that post. align the post, verse in a sac of quality obourg cement and do a bucket of water in it. Let dry.
Is the red paint on the post fairly fresh or is it cured. It scratched off easily. Will you come back and touch up the paint? By the way, the pipe welds are beautiful!
Chip Friday That paint was pretty fresh, and it does scratch easily. We generally use a galvanized pipe post, and have them powder coated if we need a specific color for a customer. Thanks!
Okay, next time I put up woven wire I'm trying it this way. Question - can I get away with skipping the gripples and splicing the wire via wrapping them together once I cut the slack out? Sorry if I missed that in the video.
I use a Tex Brown knot when tying under tension, and it works great. You can also substitute crimp sleeves in place of the Gripples. We have a Tornado Wire dealer in Florence, TX if you need any of our products. Thanks!
Tornado Wire is more consistent, with matching tension line wires to prevent slack line wires or snapping ends when tying off. We are priced very competitively with similar products, but with better quality and customer service, in my opinion. A well constructed fence using Tornado Wire will last a lifetime or two. Please feel free to give us a call anytime if you'd like to talk wire. Thanks! 844-48-FENCE
Sry for the dumb question... but I’m assuming you fixed the mesh wire at either end of your run before you started to apply tension and join in the middle?
We do use quite a bit of wood, as well as raw drill stem and galvanized pipe, but it comes down to the customers preference and budget. Tornado Wire on galvanized pipe makes a fence that, if constructed properly, will last 50 years or more, and has a similar cost to properly treated wood posts. This particular video was filmed in the middle of a drought, where pipe was the best and least expensive option.
Farm Fence Solutions LLC how are welded schedule 40 braces and terminal posts run as lines cheaper than ground treated lumber or even marine grade lumber? Understand the labor but 35 to 50% higher on materials in my part of the world
A well treated .40 CCA 5"x8' post, delivered to our yard, costs nearly $12. I can also buy the same size post, very poorly treated, for about $7. A Class III galvanized SS40 is $2 or $3 more right now. I'm not saying that wood has no use in a fence, but if the wire will last 50-60 years, why not use a post that will, as well? If the good CCA posts last 30 years, that's 40 cents per year per post. If the junk CCA posts last 10 years, that's 70 cents per year per post. Class III SS40, we already know will last at least 60 years, or 25 cents per post per year. Now figure in the labor savings, since you don't have to build the fence two or three extra times, AND it's gentler on the post driver. Not sure where your part of the world is, but I'd be glad to quote a load of pipe and wire for you, if you like. Thanks for the question.
Hi there, any thoughts on these 3 things with fencing and hinge joint 1 How do you face the T posts, so the netting meets with the flat section of the T or the pointy section, if that makes sense. 2 Do you run single line HT wire at top and bottom of net, or, do you just use the existing strands fixed to posts to hang the nettiing. On internal this is prob too much. 3 I have undulating land, I have a run that goes on a right angle, so 3 strainer posts, from the middle one is approx 100ft run each way, but one side of the middle post is pretty flat, the other is going up hill, I was told I can do this as one run, but thinking about it, this would probably only work if land was flat each way ?
Your questions look very familiar.....CT forum? 1 Flat side. I read where fence recommended the pointy side to you, but our T posts have nubs on the flat side, so I'm assuming that's the side he was referring to. 2 Yes, I usually run a plain line under and over, or a plain wire under and barbed over. 3 Yes, it sounds like you should be able to do that in one hitch easy enough. Hope all is well down south! Cheers
@@farmfencesolutionsllc Yes too CT :) I meant a wire at top at same height as the pre fab fence, and maybe mid and bottom, would make it easy I guess to clip the pre fab to wires using hog clips.....as it is, I wont be doing that, will just do pre fab and tie wires to star posts.... I will try it all in one run, spent today doing star posts and cement on stays and a bit of ground leveling under the run, I used small pipe I had, used old star posts to jamb stay pipe in place, and put a cement mix to hold it together, I saw you welded some of yours, but I think the cement will do same, and wont be lot of strain over 150 or so ft anyway.. Thanks for your info :)
@@gregausit Yes, we tie the bottom strand of plain wire in with the bottom strand of net, and sometimes a barbed in the middle. We usually go above the top of the net with a barbed or plain wire, but tie it in with the top strand of the net once in a while. It sounds like your plan will work just fine, but keep in mind that you won't have less force on a brace assembly in a short run than you would in a long run. 2.5 mil will give you 200kg forces or so, no matter the length. Cheers.
I like to hand knot, but I understand that isn't for everyone. T clip Gripples work well, and are very quick. Here is a link to what an end looks like when I hand knot net wire on pipe. www.farmfencetalk.co.uk/gallery/image/592-img_4774jpg/ Thanks for watching!
It just hit me that you probably meant on the line posts...... We use a post clip that is tightened with a cordless drill. We stock them for most common sizes of pipe.
Just curious ... why not pull the tension to the end post (within 3 feet), and then cut and tie it off? Why put the tension in the middle and cut a section out & mend it? Seems like an extra step when running short fence lengths.
We stretch to the end quite often, but not every situation is the same. This is simply an example of how we would do a center pull, or gut strain, and it certainly does not imply that it's the only way. In a long stretch where two rolls would be joined anyhow, pulling around several direction changes, or stretching with limited access would all be examples of when we would use a gut strain. This is also a very good method for very short runs, as it eliminates the possibility of any slack let back into the line. Thanks for the comment!
We have an end strain video in the works, but a gut strain is my preferred method, because it's easier, faster, and a more even stretch on long runs with direction changes. Making off an end under tension, in my opinion, is more difficult and time consuming. Each method has it's place, and we use them both on a regular basis. One thing that is never recommended is to stretch past an end and hard staple while you tie off. When using high tensile net, staples will not hold an end if the fence is tensioned properly. Thanks for the good question and for watching!
Tell me what you think I discovered by accident when the spring fell off my Hayes wire strainer which is similar to my strainrite that it was nicer to use with no spring when you go to back it off cos now I put one hand on the jaws when tightening to do the job of the spring as my other hand is all I need when tightening
Claetus Woodroofe I agree. We stock springless as well, but the spring loaded grabs seem to suit a lot of our customers too. Might be a good comparison video?🤷♂️
Tornado Wire is the only manufacturer that has eliminated slack line wires all together. I would recommend switching to Tornado in the future, but to tighten the slack line wires you are struggling with, I would recommend using Gripples and a Gripple Contractor Tool to tighten them up. You can cut the loose wire every 50' or so, and take up the slack with the Gripples. You could also use a set of goldenrods and crimp sleeves in the same fashion. Feel free to call anytime if you need supplies or advice. 844-48-FENCE Thanks for watching, and great question.
Hi FFS. Thanks so much for your fencing content. In your opinion, what's the max distance(straight run) for woven wire (949-12-12.5 HT) between properly built SINGLE H - Braces? I've seen so many different recommendations that I think it would be better to just ask a pro. Thanks in advance. -Bridger
Hi Bridger. The simple answer is 25'. Some variables that need consideration would be stock pressure, quality of wire, terrain, size and type of line posts, etc. At the end of this video, you can see a bit of 949-12 from Tornado Wire with 50' post spacing and a hot wire over top. That fence is on our place, and today has heifers on one side, and three bulls on the other. I really do think that 50' is too far, but I also like to know the limits of our products. So far, we haven't had any problems, but the hot wire is HOT. If you are going with a barbed wire on top of the woven, you will need to consider that 16-18' is nearing the effective limits. A cost effective option for big post spacing when using a top strand of barbed wire, is a twist in stay between line posts. We usually cut them in half, and get two for one. Good wire is capable of more than most folks think it is, while junk wire is capable of less than most folks think it is. Getting the good out of it starts with your bracing, and it'll need to be up to the job. We use a minimum 10' straining post, and at least 10' wide on the H brace, but usually 12'. Of course, if you have access to drill stem or SS40 galvanized pipe, you'll be a step ahead of the game, and it makes lengthening a post an option if you run into a soft/boggy/sandy spot. Of course, in rock, it takes less work to set a pipe post than a timber post, so that's another benefit. Sorry for the rambling, and thanks for the comment!
Thx...great info. Whats the max distance wire run between single end braces that you'd run? For instance, I have a 1000ft straight run to do so double end braces seem appropriate. But recommendations that Ive found range anywhere from 400' - 1320' for using single end braces. That's all over the map to me.
If a 300' stretch of fence is stretched to the same tension as a 3,000' stretch of fence, the only variable is the weight of the wire, and that is canceled out by line posts. If you are using 949 net wire that is made with 12.5 gauge 180ksi high tensile wire, the total effective breaking load is somewhere near 12,150 pounds. Lets say that you tension your fence to 1/3 of the breaking load. That's a constant load of 4,050 pounds, or 450 pounds per wire, of pull on the braces. If your line posts are spaced the same, that load on the braces will be the same, regardless of the length of the fence. The laws of physics would dictate, in my pea brain, that a good brace is a good brace is a good brace, and you more often see a failure of a brace or slacked wire in short stretches, not long ones, because there is less room for the wire to absorb expansion and contraction, and most folks think that you only need a "real good brace" on a long stretch. That said, my record is 3,300' on welded pipe braces, and they are still right where I put them. An inferior double brace will hold less than a proper single brace, but a good double brace won't hurt a thing. Where this can all go south, is junk wire. If there is an inconsistent tension curve, or total lack of one, impacts and temperature variables can junk a fence in a hurry. I know of Tornado Wire that is above the Arctic Circle, in the deserts of the Middle East, Russia, the United States, and everywhere in between. There is a very good reason for that, and it goes straight to the quality and care that is taken in the manufacturing process. You won't get the same performance from brand A, that you get from brand B. Keep that in mind when you are stretching it up. Thanks for another great question! One more of those, and I just might have to send you a hoodie or a hat.
Ok...makes sense and again, thanks a lot for your responses here. To be honest, I've been sold on this brand of wire for months now due to content on this channel as well as through Tornado's channel and other places but I ran into a couple obstacles to buying it. One is the fact that its manufactured in the UK so I automatically expect it to be more expensive but to be fair I haven't thoroughly confirmed that. Second is that when you search for Tornado wire in the U.S. through mainstream internet channels there's basically 2 suppliers that come up and they're located outside my home state(FL). This means there would be shipping costs involved. I don't know what 3600' feet of fence plus supplies would cost to ship but I'm sure it isn't free like the large national chain store a 1/2 mile from my house says it would be. Is this wire superior when compared to other brands of high tensile wire? I would think it would be easy for the layman consumer to say all HT is the same when researching fence. I don't discount the seat of the pants impression / opinion of a pro who uses it on a regular basis and just "Knows" it's better either. I don't mind paying a little more for something of high quality...especially if it saves me significant time and labor over the course of decades and I'd rather give my money to a smaller independent company in this country than to the big box stores.
Again, some great questions. It is manufactured in the UK, but is not necessarily more expensive. I prefer to base the cost on a dollars per year of ownership basis, but we are often less expensive on the front end as well. Post spacing also plays a big role in the cost of a fence, and we clearly lead the field in that category. Give us a chance to quote it for you, as you might be surprised. Some of your other questions will tie into this equation, but the simple version is that Tornado keeps it's overhead low by keeping the quality high. It sounds like a sales pitch, and I suppose in this instance, it is. But, by strictly being a fencing manufacturer, and not a giant steel company, Tornado is able to focus on quality. You raised a very good point in suggesting that all HT would be the same from a layman's perspective. What if there were a 20% swing in the tensile strength of the line wires in the same roll of net wire? You'd have wildly different tension from top to bottom, right? That is exactly what you'll get with every other manufacturer, and there is a reason for it. Slack line wires are a real problem in the field, and Tornado is the only manufacturer that goes above and beyond to prevent it. If a coil of raw wire doesn't pass a series of tests, it is rejected and will never make it into a roll of Tornado Wire. 180-200ksi is the sweet spot for HT wire, not only for it's efficacy, but also for it's ease of installation. Any lower, and it just isn't quite strong enough. Any higher and it gets brittle. When you combine consistent line wires with machines that are dialed in for perfect tension curves and perfect knots, you end up with a product that out performs the competition. Yes, you will have some shipping to get it to FL, but any wire in FL was shipped there at some point. We have a dealer in TN, and are very close to having some stock in AL. I'll be glad to set you up with either one of them, or we can ship it to you direct if need be. If you catch me the right time of year, I just might head south and deliver it myself. Shoot me an email with your address, and I'll get a hat and a hoodie in the mail. luke@farmfencesolutions.com Thanks for the great questions! If you want to have a discussion with the folks that use Tornado Wire every day, have a look here. www.farmfencetalk.co.uk/
Too many variables to give a good answer, I'm afraid. 1/2 mile on good going ground is easy enough, but might be a little much in rough country. It really depends on the conditions, IMHO.
One of the best videos for a wired fence.
I heard you say you use this method for half a mile stretches? Thats impressive. We need to fence 1700ft on one side of our property (3 sides already fenced). I have watched a ton of videos and yours was very informative and straight to the point. Thanks!
Watched you on StoneyRidge Farmer. I had to subscribe to your channel. Your knowledge is amazing and have learned a lot. Thanks and Be Safe and Take Care.
Great video. Having the right equipment really makes it so much easier and professional.
Thanks for the vid. I have strained 200m+ 14 linewire deer netting by tieing a tempory loop in one end with bail twine, stuck a wooden post through the loop and used a snig chain and tractor to apply tension. Only works with wooden posts though because you staple the line wires to the straining post in front of the knots before cutting & tieing off. Certain post treatments can cause the wires to rust at the staples, but you can certainly put the strain on this way.
I'm a city boy with absolutely no connection to this - but I find it fascinating! Looks like your work is really thorough and you present it very well. I'll watch more!
Why does he sound so familiar at points?? Finally figured it out - Karl Childers (the character's name in "Slingblade" - must be same part of the country?).
As an EMT and former RN, Im glad to see you wearing Eye Protection. One stray wire to the eye could be a life changing injury....
Let that be a lesson to you boys, it is all about the right tools for the job!
Fine tidy looking job.i like the steel fence posts.they will last forever.was thinking of changing all my strainer posts from timber to steel.sick of having to dig them up when they rot.from ireland
How long are the strainers lasting for you? I just fitted some 4” pt round posts as strainers and wondering what their life expectancy is here. Cheers, north county Dublin
I love your finished product. Good work🇨🇦
great job i like the way you stretched the wire. learned a lot on this video
That steel post that grips the fence with wedges looked pretty good and the tensioner as well.
Heard a lot of bad things about the Gripple fasteners tho. Not reuseable and may let go over time.
I have a problem with barbed wire as the deer always break one wire when running and once one wire is gone there may as well be no fence to contain animals. So we are slowly switching over to woven wire.
Gripples are reusable, and we do not see the failures you speak of. The Gripple Plus is much improved over the original version, which would let moisture in and caused a failure once it froze up. Thanks for watchin!
So where do you show; how to connect the posts to the fencing?
That's a nice job. Like your vids a whole lot better than sr. Hard work, low key, gets the job done.
Your website doesn’t list the same wedge strainer that you are using. Where did you get them? Thanks
Thanks for tip. Since I have been using this method, it has been my go to method. IMO it’s the best for longer runs of fence. 👍🏻👏
I wish I saw this 35 years ago : Great Job .
Gutes Werkzeug und Gerät gepaart mit können gibt Qualität.
Do y'all ever work up in VA on peoples fences? I sure could use your help with my 44 acres here in Halifax...
Very impressed,you know your job my brother!!!Great video!!!
I really enjoyed the video it had a lot information and made a lot of common sense again I really appreciate you taking the time to make the video I will be contacting Farm fence Solutions
Nice video, straight to the point. It made me laugh though:
"These are the (forget the brand) strainers..... this is a brand new set."
*immeaditly drops it in the dirt* 😂
Thats whats called '''christening it''.
I'm up on the NY/Ontario border. I've never seen a welded steel fence post system or high tensile woven wire. Up here it's local cedar and maybe locust. I wonder how they'd react to frost 2-3 feet deep? Looks very expensive, but very, very sturdy. Well done.
Typically, here in Texas, I drive my posts 4 feet down but depending on the soil type where I’m building, I can drive them down 6 feet. So I’m sure if someone wanted to in your area, with the right tools, they could set them to handle whatever y’alls winter frost line is.
On average, our “frost line” is 18 inches, but I’d say we don’t have a winter like that but maybe every 10 years or so to even reach that.
Very nice vlog .good job
I swear I've watched this video at least five times! 😊 It has SO much useful information!
I am making a deer fence so I can grow fruit trees without them getting devoured. In the video you mention that it's possible to use just the gripple tool to tension a shorter length of fence... How short exactly? My longest run is 80' and I'm wondering if I can skip investing in the strainers and board. Thank you very much!
hi...nice video. anyway how much kg the standard tension on the each line wire? thank you
Son! you've got to have hands of steel! No gloves and you do this every day all day.
Nice, well explained video.....i use gripples and they save a heap of time
Thank you, sir!
Very helpful, thank you from Northwest New Mexico.
The test patch…. Long distance posts…
I know this is super old it but looks like that would work for alpaca, minus the hot wire on top. Have you had any clients try it? They don’t really challenge fence line so I’m thinking this spacing would be fine.
How’s the fence holding up?
Wish you were in Eastern Washington
How do you connect the fence to the vertical posts? Do you allow he fence to slip at the connection points (like a loose staple in a wood fence)?
Great video. Once you get the fence tight how do you secure the fence to the intermediate steel posts?
Thanks! We use 11 gauge post ties, that twist on with a cordless drill. (Available from Farm Fence Solutions) We have a pipe fence video coming soon, where they will be displayed in more detail.
I would have tighten, then tied it down to a good post. Once you cut that fence, you will always have a weak spot there. I like your chain pullers though. I always pinch my fingers using come-a-longs.
So there are many ways to cut a fence or to stretch and tie one off. This particular method was to demonstrate a gut strain, which is a very common practice for us on extremely long runs, where multiple rolls of fence are joined together. With the use of a crimp sleeve, no strength is lost. With the use of figure 8 or Tex Brown knots, plenty of strength is retained. This use of Gripples was intended to be a tutorial for those who like or need them, such as a DIY farm/ranch project. We often stretch to an end, but not always. Thanks for watching!
Great Job. Thank you for a great demo and explaining. Well Done :)
Thank you for the educational video. Great product.
What is better fixed knot or hinge knot?
Very useful video,, thank you for your informations, Let me know please how did you call the tools at 7'20'' and after, the ones that work with the chains,,,Many thanks
Where do you find the stretcher bars like that? I need one about 8 ft for deer fence.
dam... i wish i had this when i was a kid an puting up new fences all the time.. shure was a lot harder than this ..lol.
OMG I learn so Much with the termination knot
Great job, like your steel posts too.
Is that type of wire for cattle also?
How do I know when it’s tight enough? What about up
And down small hills?
Awesome video !! New Mexico.
Will that wire keep pigs from escaping
When I am watching a video and I know the person is doing it right.
Then I look over and see how many idiots clicked the, "I am a dumb ass" thumbs down button.
Yup, 10% of the population are dumb asses. Thanks for the video.
I couldn't agree more. LOL Thanks for the comment!
thank very good show
I bet those hands don't spend much time at a keyboard!!!
I was surprised that you didn't begin tightening at bottom wire and move up. I haven't stretched much woven wire. We use barbed wire.
Im on the West Coast in rainy Washington state. It seems like no companys do the steel post fencing. Does it not hold up well in the rain?
I'm also from West Coast of Washington state, it depends on alot of factors wood vs steel and longevity. With wood and the amount of rain that we receive, soil density, rock pack depth, type of wood used, treated or non treated very on longevity, I've seen wood posts last a 3years to 15years it all depends on how much time you want to put into them in the preparation. The same goes for steel posts in the climate in the PNW you can make them last longer if you want it's all about time vs money I'm a industrial coatings and concrete inspector by trade but have lived in a small hick town most of my life.
Are you seeing folks put up mesh with the 12" square for sheep and goats? Wondering how that works?
Nice video. I like those gribbles might have to give them a try.
Thanks! Gripples are well worth the investment.
PriceCattleFarm PriceCattleFarm ify
Nice work....
Where do you get the net boards. Looked online you don’t advertise it?
We do stock them. Just give us a call to order. 844-48-FENCE
Thanks!
Is it best to but the welded wire on the Inside so if it's pushed or lean against from the inside it can hold more pressure. Or is best on the outer part?
That is Tornado Titan fixed knot woven wire, which is different than welded wire.....But, it makes absolutely no difference on a properly installed fence which side of the post the wire is on. Thanks!
Great video
Serious end and corner bracing for 11g field fence
It's 12.5 gauge HT, and requires substantial bracing to support the required tension. Thanks!
Thank you so much for your advice and suggestions on youtube
i'll be fencing my yard and wanted to use tornado wire with steel posts. it will be square shaped roughly 100x100. could this be tensioned with a gut strain?
Yes, it certainly can be.
Efficient worker, knows what he's doing for sure.
this guy is a professional. nice work. Now how to put a concrete post in rather wet underground? Dig a hole fairly bigger than that post. align the post, verse in a sac of quality obourg cement and do a bucket of water in it. Let dry.
Man! That’s gotta be a thousand bucks worth of tools.
Do those wavy bends in all the horizontal wires flatten out over time? If they did, it looks like a lot of the tension would release.
Is the red paint on the post fairly fresh or is it cured. It scratched off easily. Will you come back and touch up the paint? By the way, the pipe welds are beautiful!
Chip Friday That paint was pretty fresh, and it does scratch easily. We generally use a galvanized pipe post, and have them powder coated if we need a specific color for a customer. Thanks!
What wire cutters are you using?
www.shopfarmfencesolutions.com/knipex-8-spring-handle-cutters.html
Okay, next time I put up woven wire I'm trying it this way. Question - can I get away with skipping the gripples and splicing the wire via wrapping them together once I cut the slack out? Sorry if I missed that in the video.
I use a Tex Brown knot when tying under tension, and it works great. You can also substitute crimp sleeves in place of the Gripples. We have a Tornado Wire dealer in Florence, TX if you need any of our products. Thanks!
Farm Fence Solutions LLC Great, thanks for the quick reply. I'll look the dealer up next time I'm up that way.
AA Fence 254-258-9868
Excellent.
With all respect. I don't get it. How is it possible that skid useful in stretching but not in tightening?
Thank you for great Video
I see that this fence is graduated openings as you rise to the top.
Usually, if you stay in school, you will graduate.
How does Tornado fence compare to Stay-Tuff fence ? Price, strength, longevity, etc ?
Thanks
Tornado Wire is more consistent, with matching tension line wires to prevent slack line wires or snapping ends when tying off. We are priced very competitively with similar products, but with better quality and customer service, in my opinion. A well constructed fence using Tornado Wire will last a lifetime or two. Please feel free to give us a call anytime if you'd like to talk wire. Thanks! 844-48-FENCE
Thanks sir for the video
It shows with the correct tools it’s and easier job
How far apart are your posts? Thanks.
Nicely done!!
Thank you. What a hard job.
Wooden post and staples is the only way to go unless your keeping in elephants.
Everyone is entitled to their own wrong opinion. Hope all is well in your world.
Sry for the dumb question... but I’m assuming you fixed the mesh wire at either end of your run before you started to apply tension and join in the middle?
Duncan Vincent Yessir, the wire is tied off at the ends before it is tensioned.
The only “Dumb question” is the question that is never asked! “If you do not ask questions how can you learn?”
Why do you guys use steel pipe, not wood posts ?
We do use quite a bit of wood, as well as raw drill stem and galvanized pipe, but it comes down to the customers preference and budget. Tornado Wire on galvanized pipe makes a fence that, if constructed properly, will last 50 years or more, and has a similar cost to properly treated wood posts. This particular video was filmed in the middle of a drought, where pipe was the best and least expensive option.
Farm Fence Solutions LLC how are welded schedule 40 braces and terminal posts run as lines cheaper than ground treated lumber or even marine grade lumber? Understand the labor but 35 to 50% higher on materials in my part of the world
A well treated .40 CCA 5"x8' post, delivered to our yard, costs nearly $12. I can also buy the same size post, very poorly treated, for about $7. A Class III galvanized SS40 is $2 or $3 more right now. I'm not saying that wood has no use in a fence, but if the wire will last 50-60 years, why not use a post that will, as well?
If the good CCA posts last 30 years, that's 40 cents per year per post.
If the junk CCA posts last 10 years, that's 70 cents per year per post.
Class III SS40, we already know will last at least 60 years, or 25 cents per post per year. Now figure in the labor savings, since you don't have to build the fence two or three extra times, AND it's gentler on the post driver.
Not sure where your part of the world is, but I'd be glad to quote a load of pipe and wire for you, if you like. Thanks for the question.
Hi there, any thoughts on these 3 things with fencing and hinge joint
1 How do you face the T posts, so the netting meets with the flat section of the T or the pointy section, if that makes sense.
2 Do you run single line HT wire at top and bottom of net, or, do you just use the existing strands fixed to posts to hang the nettiing. On internal this is prob too much.
3 I have undulating land, I have a run that goes on a right angle, so 3 strainer posts, from the middle one is approx 100ft run each way, but one side of the middle post is pretty flat, the other is going up hill, I was told I can do this as one run, but thinking about it, this would probably only work if land was flat each way ?
Your questions look very familiar.....CT forum? 1 Flat side. I read where fence recommended the pointy side to you, but our T posts have nubs on the flat side, so I'm assuming that's the side he was referring to. 2 Yes, I usually run a plain line under and over, or a plain wire under and barbed over. 3 Yes, it sounds like you should be able to do that in one hitch easy enough. Hope all is well down south! Cheers
@@farmfencesolutionsllc Yes too CT :)
I meant a wire at top at same height as the pre fab fence, and maybe mid and bottom, would make it easy I guess to clip the pre fab to wires using hog clips.....as it is, I wont be doing that, will just do pre fab and tie wires to star posts....
I will try it all in one run, spent today doing star posts and cement on stays and a bit of ground leveling under the run, I used small pipe I had, used old star posts to jamb stay pipe in place, and put a cement mix to hold it together, I saw you welded some of yours, but I think the cement will do same, and wont be lot of strain over 150 or so ft anyway..
Thanks for your info :)
@@gregausit Yes, we tie the bottom strand of plain wire in with the bottom strand of net, and sometimes a barbed in the middle. We usually go above the top of the net with a barbed or plain wire, but tie it in with the top strand of the net once in a while. It sounds like your plan will work just fine, but keep in mind that you won't have less force on a brace assembly in a short run than you would in a long run. 2.5 mil will give you 200kg forces or so, no matter the length. Cheers.
THE TOOLS MAKE A JOB BETTER, BOTTOM LOOKS WIDER, NICE SYSTEM
Great video thanks👍
how do you hook you wire to the tubing or pipe that you used
I like to hand knot, but I understand that isn't for everyone. T clip Gripples work well, and are very quick. Here is a link to what an end looks like when I hand knot net wire on pipe. www.farmfencetalk.co.uk/gallery/image/592-img_4774jpg/
Thanks for watching!
It just hit me that you probably meant on the line posts...... We use a post clip that is tightened with a cordless drill. We stock them for most common sizes of pipe.
great video!!
Do the bottom wire first and then slide it up
Just curious ... why not pull the tension to the end post (within 3 feet), and then cut and tie it off? Why put the tension in the middle and cut a section out & mend it? Seems like an extra step when running short fence lengths.
We stretch to the end quite often, but not every situation is the same. This is simply an example of how we would do a center pull, or gut strain, and it certainly does not imply that it's the only way. In a long stretch where two rolls would be joined anyhow, pulling around several direction changes, or stretching with limited access would all be examples of when we would use a gut strain. This is also a very good method for very short runs, as it eliminates the possibility of any slack let back into the line. Thanks for the comment!
Ok, thanks for the information. I'll be stretching fence later this year, so this info will come in handy.
does the mesh size (hole size) comes in smaller so the baby chicken cannot go out?
It sure does.
What’s the gripple failure rate?
Do you ever use concrete in your fence systems? Steel, wood, does it matter?
No, we do not use any concrete. All of our posts are driven. Thanks!
Thanks be to GOD for
Ok, I'll admit I'm a novice. but why is the fence getting tensioned in the center? why not cut and tension at the end?
We have an end strain video in the works, but a gut strain is my preferred method, because it's easier, faster, and a more even stretch on long runs with direction changes. Making off an end under tension, in my opinion, is more difficult and time consuming. Each method has it's place, and we use them both on a regular basis. One thing that is never recommended is to stretch past an end and hard staple while you tie off. When using high tensile net, staples will not hold an end if the fence is tensioned properly. Thanks for the good question and for watching!
Exelente
nice video.
!!!And the experts could say the same about you!!
good job .like it
Tell me what you think I discovered by accident when the spring fell off my Hayes wire strainer which is similar to my strainrite that it was nicer to use with no spring when you go to back it off cos now I put one hand on the jaws when tightening to do the job of the spring as my other hand is all I need when tightening
Claetus Woodroofe I agree. We stock springless as well, but the spring loaded grabs seem to suit a lot of our customers too. Might be a good comparison video?🤷♂️
Please i need help, I have some wires that were not tense like the rest and tend to deform the grid, how do I solve it?
Tornado Wire is the only manufacturer that has eliminated slack line wires all together. I would recommend switching to Tornado in the future, but to tighten the slack line wires you are struggling with, I would recommend using Gripples and a Gripple Contractor Tool to tighten them up. You can cut the loose wire every 50' or so, and take up the slack with the Gripples. You could also use a set of goldenrods and crimp sleeves in the same fashion. Feel free to call anytime if you need supplies or advice. 844-48-FENCE
Thanks for watching, and great question.
Thank you
you bend that wire like its nothing, is that 12.5 g
nvm, the video answered my question.
Good work.
I could almost smell the cow shit and diesel.
Hi FFS. Thanks so much for your fencing content. In your opinion, what's the max distance(straight run) for woven wire (949-12-12.5 HT) between properly built SINGLE H - Braces? I've seen so many different recommendations that I think it would be better to just ask a pro. Thanks in advance. -Bridger
Hi Bridger. The simple answer is 25'. Some variables that need consideration would be stock pressure, quality of wire, terrain, size and type of line posts, etc. At the end of this video, you can see a bit of 949-12 from Tornado Wire with 50' post spacing and a hot wire over top. That fence is on our place, and today has heifers on one side, and three bulls on the other. I really do think that 50' is too far, but I also like to know the limits of our products. So far, we haven't had any problems, but the hot wire is HOT. If you are going with a barbed wire on top of the woven, you will need to consider that 16-18' is nearing the effective limits. A cost effective option for big post spacing when using a top strand of barbed wire, is a twist in stay between line posts. We usually cut them in half, and get two for one.
Good wire is capable of more than most folks think it is, while junk wire is capable of less than most folks think it is. Getting the good out of it starts with your bracing, and it'll need to be up to the job. We use a minimum 10' straining post, and at least 10' wide on the H brace, but usually 12'. Of course, if you have access to drill stem or SS40 galvanized pipe, you'll be a step ahead of the game, and it makes lengthening a post an option if you run into a soft/boggy/sandy spot. Of course, in rock, it takes less work to set a pipe post than a timber post, so that's another benefit.
Sorry for the rambling, and thanks for the comment!
Thx...great info. Whats the max distance wire run between single end braces that you'd run? For instance, I have a 1000ft straight run to do so double end braces seem appropriate. But recommendations that Ive found range anywhere from 400' - 1320' for using single end braces. That's all over the map to me.
If a 300' stretch of fence is stretched to the same tension as a 3,000' stretch of fence, the only variable is the weight of the wire, and that is canceled out by line posts. If you are using 949 net wire that is made with 12.5 gauge 180ksi high tensile wire, the total effective breaking load is somewhere near 12,150 pounds. Lets say that you tension your fence to 1/3 of the breaking load. That's a constant load of 4,050 pounds, or 450 pounds per wire, of pull on the braces. If your line posts are spaced the same, that load on the braces will be the same, regardless of the length of the fence. The laws of physics would dictate, in my pea brain, that a good brace is a good brace is a good brace, and you more often see a failure of a brace or slacked wire in short stretches, not long ones, because there is less room for the wire to absorb expansion and contraction, and most folks think that you only need a "real good brace" on a long stretch.
That said, my record is 3,300' on welded pipe braces, and they are still right where I put them. An inferior double brace will hold less than a proper single brace, but a good double brace won't hurt a thing. Where this can all go south, is junk wire. If there is an inconsistent tension curve, or total lack of one, impacts and temperature variables can junk a fence in a hurry. I know of Tornado Wire that is above the Arctic Circle, in the deserts of the Middle East, Russia, the United States, and everywhere in between. There is a very good reason for that, and it goes straight to the quality and care that is taken in the manufacturing process. You won't get the same performance from brand A, that you get from brand B. Keep that in mind when you are stretching it up. Thanks for another great question! One more of those, and I just might have to send you a hoodie or a hat.
Ok...makes sense and again, thanks a lot for your responses here. To be honest, I've been sold on this brand of wire for months now due to content on this channel as well as through Tornado's channel and other places but I ran into a couple obstacles to buying it. One is the fact that its manufactured in the UK so I automatically expect it to be more expensive but to be fair I haven't thoroughly confirmed that. Second is that when you search for Tornado wire in the U.S. through mainstream internet channels there's basically 2 suppliers that come up and they're located outside my home state(FL). This means there would be shipping costs involved. I don't know what 3600' feet of fence plus supplies would cost to ship but I'm sure it isn't free like the large national chain store a 1/2 mile from my house says it would be. Is this wire superior when compared to other brands of high tensile wire? I would think it would be easy for the layman consumer to say all HT is the same when researching fence. I don't discount the seat of the pants impression / opinion of a pro who uses it on a regular basis and just "Knows" it's better either. I don't mind paying a little more for something of high quality...especially if it saves me significant time and labor over the course of decades and I'd rather give my money to a smaller independent company in this country than to the big box stores.
Again, some great questions. It is manufactured in the UK, but is not necessarily more expensive. I prefer to base the cost on a dollars per year of ownership basis, but we are often less expensive on the front end as well. Post spacing also plays a big role in the cost of a fence, and we clearly lead the field in that category. Give us a chance to quote it for you, as you might be surprised. Some of your other questions will tie into this equation, but the simple version is that Tornado keeps it's overhead low by keeping the quality high. It sounds like a sales pitch, and I suppose in this instance, it is. But, by strictly being a fencing manufacturer, and not a giant steel company, Tornado is able to focus on quality. You raised a very good point in suggesting that all HT would be the same from a layman's perspective. What if there were a 20% swing in the tensile strength of the line wires in the same roll of net wire? You'd have wildly different tension from top to bottom, right? That is exactly what you'll get with every other manufacturer, and there is a reason for it. Slack line wires are a real problem in the field, and Tornado is the only manufacturer that goes above and beyond to prevent it. If a coil of raw wire doesn't pass a series of tests, it is rejected and will never make it into a roll of Tornado Wire. 180-200ksi is the sweet spot for HT wire, not only for it's efficacy, but also for it's ease of installation. Any lower, and it just isn't quite strong enough. Any higher and it gets brittle. When you combine consistent line wires with machines that are dialed in for perfect tension curves and perfect knots, you end up with a product that out performs the competition. Yes, you will have some shipping to get it to FL, but any wire in FL was shipped there at some point. We have a dealer in TN, and are very close to having some stock in AL. I'll be glad to set you up with either one of them, or we can ship it to you direct if need be. If you catch me the right time of year, I just might head south and deliver it myself. Shoot me an email with your address, and I'll get a hat and a hoodie in the mail.
luke@farmfencesolutions.com
Thanks for the great questions! If you want to have a discussion with the folks that use Tornado Wire every day, have a look here. www.farmfencetalk.co.uk/
What is the farthest you can do on a end strain?
Too many variables to give a good answer, I'm afraid. 1/2 mile on good going ground is easy enough, but might be a little much in rough country. It really depends on the conditions, IMHO.