Mix 2-Stroke Fuel like this and it WILL be a GOOD Mix (My Opinion and Insights!)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ม.ค. 2023
- In the video I explain my way of thinking for mixing 2 Stroke oil for the general garden machine, such as weed eaters/trimmers, chainsaws etc. I do mention Stihl Two Stroke oils a well as budget 2 Stroke engine oils. Although i do mention a Stihl brand, I am not a Stihl dealership and i am receiving absolutely NO from Stihl. I just just wanted you to know what I thought of Stihl Oils. Also, i don't recommend only Stihl Two Stroke oils, I also am a fan of other more premium 2 stroke oils such as Amsoil.
For those using Stihl Chainsaws, they usually run on a 50:1 (although this may vary so please read the manufactures recommendations before you use your chainsaw). But if I'm using a less quality budget oil, especially if I am using a budget piece of machinery, then what I like to do, personally, is to make the mix a little stronger. So I go from anywhere between 30:1, even 25:1. This may well make the engine smoke a little more and it may even run a little hotter, but we have to remember that any budget piece of machinery, such as a weed eater, is not exactly a high performance engine, it's made for occasional domestic usage only.
Now, something like a modern Husqvarna or Stihl Chainsaw for example, a quality product, will be ok with a 50:1 mix with the type of quality Stihl 2-stroke oils on the market today. In my opinion this is because the tolerances (Gaps) between the components are likely to be tighter, which means a a thinner viscosity of mix will move through gaps better (again, using only the correct high quality oil), and the metal that the components are made from will be of better, more robust quality.
Here is a detailed instructional presentation type video of mine explaining the meat and bones principle of why a Chainsaw Bogs Down: • Chainsaw Carburetor Pr...
For two-stroke engines to perform at their best and last the longest, the proper fuel to oil mix ratio must be achieved. The ratio of fuel to oil describes how much two-stroke oil is used to lubricate the engine while using petrol as the fuel. The manufacturer's recommendations, the engine design, and the intended use all play a role in determining the appropriate mix ratio.
Two-stroke engines often require a mixture of petrol and oil due to the absence of a dedicated lubricating system. Oil in the fuel mixture prevents excessive wear and lowers friction by lubricating the engine's moving elements, including the piston, crankshaft, and bearings.
Depending on the particular engine and manufacturer requirements, there are different suitable fuel to oil mix ratios. The most common ratios are 50:1 and 40:1, respectively, indicating 50 parts petrol to 1 part oil or 40 parts petrol to 1 part oil. The exact mix ratio must be determined by consulting the engine's manual or the manufacturer's instructions because some engines may require different ratios.
The right mix ratio must be achieved for a number of reasons. A lack of oil in the combination might result in insufficient lubrication, which can hasten wear and even threaten engine damage. A high oil-to-fuel ratio, on the other hand, can lead to inefficient combustion, carbon buildup, fouled spark plugs, and decreased engine performance.
It's crucial to use two-stroke oil of the highest calibre that is made with these engines in mind. These oils have compounds that offer superior lubrication and reduce the growth of dangerous deposits. Avoid using automotive motor oil because it has different characteristics and could harm your engine.
Make sure to use precise proportions and thoroughly mix the fuel and oil to create a uniform blend. For precise measurements, it is advised to utilise a fuel mixing container or fuel canister with obvious markings. First, add the right amount of two-stroke oil to the bottle, then add the right amount of petrol. To achieve appropriate dispersion, gently swirl or shake the container to thoroughly blend the fuel and oil.
To prevent misinterpretation or unintentional abuse, always store the gasoline and oil mixture in an authorised container that is both well sealed and clearly marked with the mix ratio.
In conclusion, factors like the engine's characteristics and manufacturer's recommendations affect the ideal two-stroke fuel to oil mix ratio. The performance, dependability, and longevity of the engine must be maintained by using the recommended mix ratio and premium two-stroke oil. To ensure optimal performance, always consult the owner's manual or the manufacturer for the precise mix ratio.
Craig (Owner and Creator of The Repair Specialist Channel)
#TwoStrokeMix
#2StrokeOil
#ChainsawMaintenance
#WeedEater
#ChainsawOil
#2StrokeEngine
#GardenMachinery
#EngineLubrication
#OilMixRatio
#StihlChainsaw
#Amsoil
#BudgetOil
#FuelOilMix
#ChainsawPerformance
#EngineWear
#ProperMixRatio
#FuelLubrication
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#HighQualityOil
#MaintenanceTips - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Hi guys I just wanted to Introduce to you my other Channel "Kirkman's Academy" - which i'm just getting started. It's a go-to channel for simple explanations for hard to grasp subjects such as physics, maths and chemistry etc. Here is the link: www.youtube.com/@kirkmansacademy/videos . Thank you so much for looking, and if these topics interest you then I hope to see you the there. Many thanks indeed. Craig 😊👍
Remember seeing my uncle who's a builder of 30 years pour petrol into his Sthl saw then casually pour in some 2-stroke. (Not Sthl).
Always a bit smoky but probably never a seized engine!
I'm a gardener myself so I get through a bit, got assorted of diffrent brand tools so generally go got a 1:40 mix in everything.
I keep 2-3 litres of pre mix in a can and just give it a good shake.
You are an educated man with a sensible approach. I don't see anything wrong here. Keep up the good work. People need this information.
Thank you so much for your king feedback and words on support. I really appreciate it. Craig
I would NEVER run 50:1... I never go over 24:1. I dont care how high quality the engine is or high end the oil is. NEVER listen to the engine manufacturer on any matter that is influenced by the EPA, they are not going to give you the best advice for longevity of the engine.
A LOT of people I know in the trade would very much agree with you!
32 to 1 works good with small amounts of fuel, i.e. 1 ounce/30ml to 1qt/1liter. Easy to mix up.
I used MC1+ for the Ryobi, at 32 to 1.
Will use *more* oil (Maxima K2) for the Zenoah.
I run everything at 25:1 and always have. My cheap gears seem to never die, had 10 year runs from cheap new weedeaters and the recoil goes or the shaft bearings wear out but engine still starts and runs perfectly. I use Mobil outboard usually as it has the blue die so it's easy to not mix fuels up. My exhausts are dripping with oil and smoke like mad but my rule is if it ain't smoking it ain't got enough oil. On my chainsaws the plugs oil up as I'm often idling or on and off throttle but my weedeaters are generally idled till warm then on full song until the tank runs dry with very little off throttle time and they stay quite clean but both types of machines I very rarely have a plug really gunk up. If anybody read this far another thing Indo to get extremely long service life from small 2 strokes is periodically blast them down with degreaser externally to keep the cylinder jug clean. Oil holds dust, dust builds up and essentially forms an insulating barrier between the alloy and the air. I'm sure that proper cooling has made my gear last so long as well as 25:1 mix always, in everything, regardless of manufacturers recommendations.
more oil means more power, but if it's leaking oil from the exhaust you could probably try 32:1
VP race gas, lucas 2 stroke mixed 40 to 1 in all my Stihls. My 1984 024 and 1979 032 both still run like new. I have on occasion run junk gas and whatever oil I can find but it gets mixed more oily. One can STP to a gallon of 30 weight on the bar. I believe part of the longevity of my saws is due to giving them a good long time to warm up before hammering the throttle. That, and never running them at redline.
Nice presentation.
first time to find and view your exceptional channel! your attention to detail but put in layman's terms makes this my favorite channel for small engine repair. Thank you from South Carolina, in the colonies. I'm a retired small farm raised chemical engineer so
I appreciate just how thoroughly and carefully you teach us...the only issue has to do with your pronunciation of carburetor. ;) Keep up the great work!! A grateful Yank!
I have found that when using more oil in the mix, I get more muffler and spark arresror oil fouling. If it clogs the muffler, the engine can't breath and will stall after a bit. Time to remove the muffler and put a propane torch to it to burn off the oil. This has worked for me.
Thanks. I never considered the various qualitative differences between oils and machines in setting the mix. Brilliantly explained.
sir you rang the bell with this video, absolutely sound advice. It seems the prevailing notion these days is that modern oils are so advanced you not only can but should limit oil to 50:1 or even less oil. I do not care how advanced an oil is, there needs to be a certain concentration of oil molecules to allow good operation and prevent damage due to lack of lubrication. I too have run 32:1 since 1981 when I first started buying and using chainsaws. To this day those old saws are still running and the cylinder/piston assemblies look excellent. Never had plug fouling, or exhaust blockage and recent inspections show very minimal carbon build up. I even used Stihl oil for the majority of the time which is maligned by many as terrible for deposit build up. I do not buy that at all. I used these saws heavily in wood milling and firewood cutting. On the other side of things I have acquired many vintage saws on line as a collector and the amount of heat/low lubrication damage is astonishing for about 50% of these saws. I can assume the operators of these saws opted for the idea of low oil concentrations and worked their saws hard.
Awesome. Thank you for you feedback and contribution 👍👍👍
Great advice. I’ve been hearing lots of cases brand new high end chainsaws ruined by overheating caused by ethanol separation.
Super video - thanks for bringing this up 👍👍
I am an amature and have just started using a cheepy household chainsaw. Glad I found you on U-Tube. Thank you for the excellent advice. Will be looking at your other videos as well for advice.
Awesome, thank you! Craig
I use Red Armor in all my Husqvarna, Stihl, and Echo saws at 50:1
My personal preference is quality synthetic at 30:1 break in then 40:1 forever in all of my 2 strokes. Chain saw, weed eater, scooters, toys. I do use 50:1 break in on small 4 strokes. One tank only.
Great video and advice. Thanks for sharing! 👍
Thanks for this explanation. I bought a knockoff cheap chainsaw that recommends 20:1 for first 20 hours and 25:1 thereafter. That sounded really rich from what I have read is best to use in a chainsaw (I’m new to chainsaws). Couldn’t find any good explanations online for when it’s ok to use more oil until I found your video. Now I feel more confident following the manufacturer’s recommendation.
Ive had a solo 2 stroke brush cutter for the past 20 years I remember once I picked up the wrong can filled it with straight petrol , noticed straight away it it lacked power (assuming it was the extra friction) turn it off and put the right fuel and saved from more damage.Also noticed with older 2 strokes more oil in the mix helps with compression ie more power.
Whatever I mix for my power saw I use for everything else, weed eater, hedge trimmer, and ECT.
I'm doing this for 35 40 years, and I never had to replace any of them for a motor problems.
Had a weed eater for 30 years I just finally went and bought a new one because of a problem with the shaft wearing out.
I hedge trimmers same way I've used them for years and years and years.
Couple years ago I went and bought a new pair hedge trimmer.
Just got a new gas chainsaw (my previous one was battery powered.) I appreciate your insights (on this, and a couple other of you videos.)
Thanks
Stihl HP oil 50:1 to all
My stihl chainsaws! The oldest one my Ms 290, after 20+ years, never have any problem, and piston looks like new! Nice video man! 👍
just what I was looking for! keep up the good work! good on you!
Awesome! Thank you!
Great video, Craig 👍🏼. Thanks mate…
I like 40:1 only I don't use a two cycle oil. I use Mobil One synthetic motor oil high mileage. I use the the highest viscosity I can find. The high mileage also has additives that keep crank seals,and carb diagrams pliable. I've been doing this for twenty plus years and have had good service with it.
So this is NOT a 2 cycle oil, but rather regular motor oil?
@@Guaicoboi Yeah, synthetic motor oil for cars. It's done a good job for me.
Do you use ethanol free?
why
Still ultra or Echo red armor at 40:1 in my Stihl, Husqvarna, Poulan, Mantis, Ryobi equipment. Seems to work fine.
I’m gonna call my Weed Whacker a Strimmer from now on! It just sounds cooler! 😂
32 to 1 works in about everything for me I use valvoline two cycle. Love my lawn boy.
very helpful video like all another from your channel
Totally agree Craig, to be on the safe side a good Husqvarna oil 50 to 1 on a good machine I run with 45 to 1 and cheap machine is 25 to 1
40 to 45:1 Echo red armour imported into the UK mixed with Stihl 4mix silver canned fuel.
Not motomix, this contains the Ultra oil which i find low grade FB rated, dirty/dry burn.
Only use "FD" rated oils which are much better quality and have greater cleaning additives within them.
To mix any any ratio devide amount of gas by ratio desired. i.e. 12 oz / 50 = 0.24 oz.
In short formula form g/r=oil.
I've always used 50:1 Stihl regular mix, when I've needed to rebuild my equipment it always has a nice coating of oil on the upper and lower end. I also tend to run a touch rich.
So much this.
The top of the piston in the 25cc here has a coke buildup tho, so not sure if the burn is ✔☑
Very interesting! I bought a Poulan Pro PR5020 (made by Husqvarna) and a gallon can of Husqvarna Bar & Chain Oil and a gallon of Husqvarna 50:1 Premium Fuel because I thought 50:1 is what's one the box packaging cover. I haven't used it yet. I recently read that all Poulan Pro chainsaws are 40:1, and now, after watching this, I notice on the box it says both 40:1 and 50:1, implying that I have a choice. I thought 50:1 meant more oil, but now I know better. However, the manual says to add 2.6 ounces of Full Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil to one gallon of Fresh Gasoline for a 50:1 mixture actually 49.23:1) without specifying Regular or Premium. To go with your recommendation, I'll have to exchange mine for 40:1. I'm going to contact Poulan or Husqvarna to see what they recommend and ask if 40:1 is OK. It says that E10 is OK, but E15 or E85. I run all my small engines with E0 Regular now, but I think this chainsaw will do better with the Premium premixed canned. Thanks for bringing this to my attention!
Thanks for the video mate.. interesting.. I normally run at 40 to 1 in the cheapest ones but I use good quality oil..
My machines (blower, string trimmer, etc.), according to the manufacturer, are 50:1 gas/oil ratio engines. But I run them at 40:1, been doing that for a long while. It smokes slightly, but I believe that is worth the benefits of less wear.
Nice one. 👍
I have a cheap asse petrol strimmer had it 4years 1st year it was the work horse ... I always let it warm up before using it ... 2nd year it was the back up Strimmer 3rd and 4th years it only comes out for big jobs as it has the handle bars and its so light compared to the newer ones ... its always been on 40-1 with budget oil from wilkos most of the time ... she's still running 💪
I use strictly Stihl Ultra at 50 to 1 in all my Stihl Chainsaws and String trimmers. I have never had a single problem for 12 yrs. Synthetic oils are by far superior oils. And I use mobile 1 in my car and truck.
Awesome 👍
In the Stihl manual they give you a quantity of oil other than Stihl brand to use. If I remember correcrly it is about twice whart the Stihl brand oil is.
Great Vid Craig, thanks! Here in the states the 10% ethanol added to our fuel compounds our issues! I use Stihl Ultra at 40-1 and the only issues I see are as you stated fouled spark plugs and spark arresters but I check them monthly. Also I tell my customers to limit idle time and part throttle operation as it also increases the likelihood of carbon buildup. Thanks again. Knowledge IS Power!!
Chevron 94 ethanol free.
@@timcline2799 not available in SW Connecticut!
Sorry to hear. I’m in BC Canada. Before I found Chevron 94 ethanol free..what a headache it was figuring out the ethanol problem
Why not take the ethanol out its easy to do.
@@bobp6742 just keep in mind if you mix a little water in there to phase separate the gas and the ethanol, it will reduce the octane by about 10 points so you need to add octane booster after to bring it back up to the correct octane. Ethanol is very high octane
Regardless QUALITY oil is a must. You're playing Russian roulette with a fully loaded gun if you don't use good oil. The best you can hope for ,even if you step the mix up is a carbon stuck ring set. I don't know how many blowers,and trimmers I've had to tear down and decarbon.
I have ran 32-1 for years with no issues. Chainsaws, weedeaters, Motorcycles. I use only gasoline with no ethanol. I use penzol 2 stroke. I go through gallons of fuel at times, I bought a used 2 stroke dirt bike with unknown hours. I went through the motor and worked on power valves. Old rings and I have over 70 hours on bike for myself.
Awesome, thanks for letting me know 👍
Excellent!!
This video is exactly what I yearned for. Someone with tons of experience, no bios intentions, and a clear explanation. Unless you're an oil chemist why experiment using anything other than two cycle oil on your equipment?
Thanks Craig..
Hi Craig i have a question to ask you. I have one of those chinese 58cc chainsaws it recommended 25-1 oil mix. Could i use 40-1 or 50-1 Stihl over on these chainsaws or 25-1 with stilh oil for it?
As always an oil video gets 2-stroke folks all churned up. I tend to stay out of the brawls even though I have my opinions. The worst thing about excess oil ratio is carbon buildup in the head flaking and scoring. An operator or tech can easily change plugs, burn off spark arrestors and even scrape exhaust ports but cleaning the cylinder head requires gaskets, disassembly, reassembly and vacuum and pressure testing the work. I like to ride motorized bikes with chinese engines, cheap transport that can park in bike racks while running errands at 25 to 30mph. The heads unbolt off the cylinders so cleaning carbon is really simple and cheap. The mix oil I settled on after years of cleaning heads is Red Armor, an Echo/Shindaiwa product, because it has de-carbonizer in the mix. I use non-ethanol in all small engines, mixed at 25:1 break in, 40:1 later.
So much this. The Stihl 25cc here has so much coke buildup on top the piston. Come back after cleaning (when changing cyl head gasket).
All the oven cleaners say not to use on aluminum, so cant get it off that way.
What to do❓
@@bacilluscereus1299 I use brake cleaner and 3m pads in green or red. I have some fittings for a die grinder as well but the pads will remove carbon good enough by hand
@@bacilluscereus1299 For cylinder heads I make mandrels out of 3/8" aluminum bar or hardwood dowell slotted enough to jam a 3m square in and remove it with brake clean and a drill. But I put a ground off spark plug in the port to protect the threads
my equipment lasted longer under tough conditions. Had to change the plug more often after hard use for next season.
H, wondered what you think about less known brand ouls, that are JASO FD or ISO EGD rated, ? Understand that most budget 2T oil is mineral based FB rated.
For long duration, high speed operation would you recommend the use of semisynthetic to achieve best protection for whole engine ?
Could you explain the marking's on mixing bottles and oil botttles please also the difference between red and green oil. thank's
Slightly off subject, but what is your opinion on Aspen 2 fuel? I’m only an occasional user running a husqvarna 560xp and an old ms230..
This information came out of practical experience!
Thank you 👍👍👍
I have been using my Alpina BC43DS, ( 43 cc ) for like 15 years ( bought new) , I am not a commercial user but have substantial reason to use a 43 cc machine during the UK grass season , Its not babied but not abused, it has a genuine Japanese Mitsubishi engine 2 stroke engine ( not cloned) and its an absolute screamer if you need it to, (whet grass for instance and you cant wait for a dry day) . The manual says ( 50.1 fully synthetic) From the get go I have ran it on green bottle " Castrol TT " 2 stroke racing oil fully synth but @ 40.1, Not had a moments problem , just recently replaced the NGK spark plug ( avoid them no mark jobs from hardware stores ) and a new genuine part air filter, SO, quality engine, quality oil, quality parts, my own experience confirms your statement.
I use 50:1 in all my branded/non branded equipment using brand name oil/s.I use 100:1 in my Yamaha outboard using yamalube.
I've run my Chinese strimmer at 50:1 and it's now 17 years old and this time of year I run it for 40 minutes twice a week.
Same with my cheap Chinese chainsaw, never had any problems running them at 50:1.
Now I've said that I bet it goes bang next time I use it.
Awesome 👍
Really wondering if i can use aspen 2 in my 1 to 40 parkside multitool 52cc 2t for 3 times a year use for 5 minutes. Until now it runs...
Good sound advice Craig .
Thank you. I appreciate your contribution. Craig 👍
I use the stihl 50:1 mixed with non ethanol mid grade. Oil technology has become very advanced, so I stick with the manufacturer recommendations.
If using ethanol fuel, Lucas oil makes an additive to treat the fuel.
Any advice on common faults on an honda gx35 4t engine ? Working fine one minute, then refused to run the next...went and changed all usual service parts, spark plug, filter etc...but i want to know if theres anything i shoulf be aware of before i let loose on the carburettor 😅
The mixture depends on the application if you have a modern-day 2-stroke such as a Weedeater or string trimmer whipper snipper whatever you want to call it that it typically runs a 50 to 1 but let's say you have older equipment or something like a motorcycle from the 1970s or 80s those call for a 40 to 1 mixture sometimes 25:1 I have a lawnmower that calls for 16:1 yes the oils these days are better but we have to remember that the tolerance of those engines are much less close together and need the extra oil to keep the parts from rubbing together example I also have a 1957 johnson 7.5 seahorse outboard 16:1 why you ask because it has babbitt bearings and those require large amounts of oil to lubricate them but you don't see that stuff being used much these days so 50:1 is common and if you are unsure of a an equipment age I was always told when unsure 32:1 will work yes it will smoke a bit but that means at least it getting lubricated
Thank you for sharing your insights on 2-stroke engine oil mix ratios and their applications. Your knowledge of different ratios for various equipment types, along with the historical context, is impressive. It's essential to consider the manufacturer's recommendations for the appropriate oil-to-fuel ratio for each specific engine, as you've rightly pointed out.
You've highlighted the importance of understanding the unique requirements of older equipment and how the tolerances of engine components can vary significantly. Your advice on using a 32:1 ratio when unsure is a practical approach to ensure proper lubrication, even if it may result in a bit more smoke.
Your willingness to share your expertise is greatly appreciated, and I'm sure it will be valuable to others navigating the world of 2-stroke engines and their oil mixtures. If you have any more insights or questions on this topic or any other, please feel free to continue the discussion.
Many thanks indeed
Craig
@@TheRepairSpecialist will do I am very knowledgeable on small engines 2 or 4 stroke vintage or modern and diesel engines too
I think I own over 20 2t engines, from rc, mx, v6 merc outboards, chainsaws, etc, even a 2t diesel.
My theory is you use quality oil, at a ratio that suits the application.
1:5 - 50:1, my most used ratio is 40:1.
Maybe those companies who make the oil should be held accountable. They should let the customers know that they need to make a richer mix and what the equivalent ratio is while using their product.
I use Husqvarna XP oil in all my 2-stroke machines, 2.5% (40:1) in Chinese engines and 2% (50:1) in brand name engines. I tried 3%, but the muffler was then spitting out oil, not only dripping, like it does at 2.5%. I disassembled several of those engines and found lubrication to be more than adequate. I might even switch to 2% for all machines. Modern brand name oils are really good.
Husqvarna LS (low smoke) 2-stroke is not good enough?
Why Husqvarna XP when the LS has fuel stabiliser added but the XP has NOT.
The XP was developed for Husqvarna Engines > 55cc.
@@set3777 I used LS in the past, actually. Was very satisfied with it. But then got a VERY good deal for a few 1L bottles of XP oil and now I'm using it. So, XP is not some of my preference, but just a good deal.
@@homopit42 But the LS+ already exceeded the JASO FC and FD specs but the XP (without +) is only rated at JASO FB according to some reports. XP+ may have finally passed the JASO FC and FD specs.
@@set3777 On the XP bottle, it says "JASO FD"
@@homopit42 Is it laelled XP+ or just XP
I don't like the 50:1 mix, regardless of which brand of 2 Cycle Oil is used.
50:1 Snowblower runs fine at 40:1, with no spark plug fouling.
All of my other Outdoor Power Equipment is run at the manufacturers mix ratio.
Especially, my oldest equipment from the 1980's. In those machines, I run 32:1.
Sounds logical to me, cheers for the help john
Thank you John. Craig 👍
I had some bad experiences with some lesser brands of lawn equipment so I went with Echo some years ago. I also only use Echo 2 stroke oil at 50:1 since I have heard of failures when other oils were used - and consequently not covered under warranty because of that. Over the years, the only thing I have needed to do outside of very little standard maintenance was rebuild one carb --> likely due to the ethanol in our pump gas.
another awesome video Craig! i think i'm gonna go ahead and shave my head in honor of you sir!
😂Awesome thank you 👍. Craig
I Break in/ run in two tanks light duty or ideling at 16 to 1 then 32 to 1 after if its a modern chainsaw, 25 to 1 if its old or a Chinese chainsaw or trimmer .
Thanks.
Good morning sir thanks
Sound advice!
I only use Aspen 2 in my high quality Two-stroke equipment, it's expensive but the motors are like new inside after years of regular usage. No smoke or smell either.
Yes very good oil in my opinion 👍👍
I use 40:1 with both my Husky weed whacker and Poulan Pro 4218 and use the Husky oil.
Awesome 👍👍👍
When decreasing the fuel/oil ratio so drastically (25:1), don’t you find that you have to readjust your carb? The increased temperature is most likely due to a lean condition as you’re reducing the available fuel to mix with air for each intake cycle.
If the fuel/oil ratio is decreased, surely you'd need less air, so adjust the carb. But what about the spark timing. You wouldn't need to start burning too early to burn all the air/fuel thoroughly!?
I recently sold a 40 year old Stihl 038 chainsaw, one of the very early ones. I shudder think how much firewood I had cut up with that let alone the trees it had cut down (Mostly Elms ravaged by Dutch Elm disease, willows etc. plus the odd oak) I only ever used Stihl's own oil in it at the correct 50:1 ratio, In all that time I never had to touch the engine itself apart from routine things like plugs and air filters but over the years dozens of chains , sprockets and a few bars of course. When the guy came to pick it up it started 1st pull and ran like a champ. Q.E.D.
That's incredible! It sounds like your Stihl 038 chainsaw was an absolute workhorse for you over the years, tackling all those trees and providing you with countless hours of service. It's a testament to both the quality of Stihl's products and your diligent maintenance. The fact that it started on the first pull even after 40 years is truly impressive. Thanks for sharing this great story of durability and reliability!
Thanks
Craig
This oil issue IS an bit of a complicated and contravercial issue.
As you say there are two issues, the quality of the oil and the quality of the machine.
Back in the day when we did not have well developed Two Stroke oils, some machines where suposed to run 10:1 and they smoked like a bast@!$.
Back then two strokes pretty much ran SAE30 motor oil.
pretty much all of those machines would run on a reasonably modern oil at 25:1, but because there was so much oil at 10:1 it effected the fuel value and the carby would need rejetting or retuning to run 25:1. This is the proven case with the old air cooled Seagull outboard motors. There is a rejetting kit avilable for 25:1 mix.
.
Since the 60's or 70's, common or garden two strokes ran on a specifically formulated two stroke oils and 25:1 was the pretty much universtal mix ratio, determined pretty much by the quality of the engine and the quality of the available oils.
Around this time we had high performance engines running Castor oil mixes. I can not comment on the reasons or the details.
.
Some time in the 70's moving into the 80's we started to see two stroke motors and two stroke oils designed to run in the 50:1 range.
This was seen in high performance motors in chain saws and motorcycles.
These where " modern" mineral oils and these pretty much remain, for both pre-mix and oil injected high performance two stroke engines.
Some of the oil injected motors have variable mix ratios, running thicker mixes at idle and low speed and as thin as 70;1 and above at high RPM.
These oils deveoped to lubricate better, smoke less and produce less carbon in the engine and exhaust.
.
At the current time there are some reasonably new synthetic and semi synthetic two stroke oils in the 50:1 market.
these are functionally the same as the mineral 50:1 oils, but probably perform better.
.
As for the many and varied mix ratios, I can not see that there would be much difference between a 40:1 and a 50:1 oil mix, if it was done on a quality and appropriate oil.
.
Many 25:1 two strokes may infact run just fine on a 50:1 mix of a high performance two stroke oil, in place of the low performance oil that is specified. UM some may not.
I have a makita blower ( robin/subaru manufacture I believe), that specifies 25;1 mix, that I have been running on the same 50:1 mix I have for my chain saws and brush cutters.
It seems to be happy and it does not carbon up it's muffler anywhere near as badly as it did on the 25:1 mix the previous owner was running.
A reasonably recent issue is, due to environmental issues, many of the older and dirtier two stroke oils may have disappeared from the market, the API TA and TB classification oils.
It will probably be found that most two stroke oils on the market will be API TC rated, which is ya typical reasonably modern 50:1 oils, or better.
The higher performance synthetic and semi-synthertic oils, have probably come to the market in an attempt to keep two stroke motors in the market and comply with emmissions standards.
OH a parting shot.
DO NOT USE, marine two stroke oils in air cooled engines, they do not perform in nthe heat.
Thank you. Very good video.
I fly gas powered RC airplanes with high performance 2 stroke 50cc motors.
I use STIHL full synthetic `40:1 and REDLINE oil about the same ratio.
Thanks for sharing👍
I always go rather heavy on oil, smoke & drips are much better than blown engines.
25:1 is equal to how many milliliter (ml) ???
Yes sir... I agree. Better to have too much oil and be on the safe side. And no ethanol also. That is poison in 2 Cycle engine equipment...
The other thing to consider with recommendations whether cheap chinese or name brand is emissions regulations. By that I mean the OEM is going to recommend something that complies with regulations of the target market and will last long enough that there won't likely be a warranty claim.
I don't know what regulations are like in the US but an interesting comparison is between the US and here in Australia. The US has fairly strict standards for new engines whereas Australia has no emissions regulations at all for non road engines and a lot of the cheap chinese products seem to run a lot nicer here in my experience than they appear to run in the US. I don't know this for a fact and there are other factors at play too, namely shipping to Australia is cheaper than the US or the UK so you can buy a higher quality chinese tool for the same price. I bought a chinese chainsaw for 108aud which is about 64gbp and it's amazing. High quality plastics, well tuned powerful engine, foam filter and a decent bar and chain. It also came with a spare spark plug and gasket kit which was nice. I have been using it very heavily and I'm still very impressed it handles eucalypt very well.
Personally I run 40:1 most of the time, the Australian spec chinese tools seem to run a little rich compared to the US market so they get extra oil from the over fueling. The chainsaw asks for 25:1 for break in then 40:1 and I've been following that so far.
Great! Thank you for letting us know. I really appreciate it. Craig
Stihl chainsaw and trimmer, stihl oil only, 1:50. 10 years on, all good. But one thing: switching from regular red oil to the most expensive dark green full synth Ultra stihl oil, what a difference in cold starts after a month or two of non-usage (probably because of fuel stabilizers). THAT was a revelation. From then on, only Ultra oil.
Awesome, thanks for letting me know. Craig 👍
The Stihl Ultra is only FB rated, lesser quality and a dirty/dry burn. "FD" rated oils are much better. Echo and Hysky are mostly FD rated.
@@robertoduranos5196 Well, dunno, will investigate, but 10 years without any problems or wear, can't be bad, can it?
@@robertoduranos5196 I can check but there are many yt "connosiers" whom I don't believe a thing.
@@robertoduranos5196 Oh, now I see I already watched his video. In my view, BS without any real proof, just a lot of blah-blah, inconsistent and so on.
Yes I use a little more oil a dealership told me to use a little more.
👍
Ive used optimal opti two for around 40 years , never had a break down . 1 oz. To the gallon , i can cut back a dab on the fuel if im working something harder . Ive used it in every 2 cycle ive ever ran , and working on small engines for 40 years , thats quite a few .
Ok, awesome 👍
My Stihl 041 recommends 25:1 as of 1973. ! Would a modern oil at 50:1 (Oregon) be a problem? Your videos are very helpful 👍
Hi. The oils back then were far less superior even though the chainsaws were of good quality. It’s highly likely though that the tolerances in an older type Stihl are not as tight as the new type. So the recommended 50:1 for a modern chainsaw is just so that the oil/fuel mix is thin enough to pass through around the components. The components themselves on the modern chainsaws are made of material that can withstand this thinner viscosity providing they are ran on a good up to date synthetic high quality two stroke oil. Your chainsaw components, although great quality for its time, would most likely not be made in quite in the same way as the modern saws. As the oils were much less advanced back then they had to recommend plenty of lubrication to ensure no damage occurred. The saws were made in a way that could deal with this level of higher viscosity (heavier) fuel/oil mix. So whilst I’m sure you may not encounter any issues with a 50:1 modern high quality synthetic based oil. I personally would rather use a 40:1 of this type of oil just to be on the safe side. If you use the type of oil I mentioned then you shouldn’t encounter too much smoke and the flash point (ignitability) of these modern quality oils are very good usually, so it will burn well during combustion. Please remember though that everything I have wrote here is my opinion based on my own experience. I hope this helps though. Craig
Those are pretty powerful saws & depending on which version u have were built 2 withstand commercial use🦾
If it recommends 25:1 I personally wouldn't run it any thinner than 32:1 even w/ modern synthetic or semi-synthetic oils especially if you're really planning on doing sum "logging" today, know what I'm saying?🪵
Please allow me to voice my opinion! There's so much "advice" available on TH-cam that it's almost impossible to distinguish which is right. Now for clarity's sake, I will go with what the equipment manufacturers specify. From experience, I have realized that a "rich" mixture rapidly fouls the exhaust, to the point that the exhaust is obstructed by little balls of carbon, that end up shutting off the exhaust completely and killing the engine!!! Remember- just as we need to breathe in, we also need to be able to breathe out. Same for your small engined equipment. The problem can be remedied by washing out the exhaust with clean fuel, but remember to use a compressor to blow out the vapors remaining in the exhaust, or else; the exhaust may blow when you fire up the engine again.
OK. Thank you for your contribution. Craig
I agree with you , I use Lucas two stroke oil mix and I put 3 1/2 OZ to exactly one gallon of fuel . And my pistons look like new when I flash them with the flash light . Little expensive oil but worth it on my Stihl BR800 , and Stihl trimmers . So yes I go alittle bit more oil mix to be on the safe side
Castrol T2. Grade 4 oil. The highest quality available
Research this yr self
My 50.1 two strokes are always run as 40.1
I’ve always rung slightly richer as it gives extra insurance when running for long periods on wot
Jmo
Do you have to tune for a different ratio.
I have a cheap warrior strimmer that i use 35 to 1 but if it gets any heavier I think the carb struggles(don't know what carb)
That's a great question! Adjusting the carburetor on a two-stroke engine to accommodate a different ratio of oil/fuel mix can be necessary, especially if you're running a leaner or richer mixture than the carburetor is set for originally.
In your case, running a 35:1 mix (which is 35 parts gasoline to 1 part oil) is fairly standard for many two-stroke engines. However, if you start using a significantly different oil-to-fuel ratio, it can affect the air-fuel mixture going into the engine, potentially making it too lean or too rich.
I hope this helps a little
Craig
👍32:1 or my old saws. 40:1 is my limit for anyting else. If you love it lube it🙂
I bought a brand new trimmer (Chinese brand). It was running fine until I refilled with my own stihl 50:1 mix. Now the engine sputters, suddenly loses power. What can be the cause?
Likely cause is that you did not retune the carburetor for that fuel mix.
Hi sorry dont know your name....watched several of your videos today and leaned a lot.
Can I talk about my 50 year old 2 stroke motor bike....BSA BANTAM.
since the 50s 60s BSA Recommended a 2 stroke mix of 20 to 24 to 1....with primitive mineral oil....the smoke from the used to be terrible....and gummed up pistons ring badly.
I use a modern well known semi synthetic 2 stroke oil and run at 40/1.
The oil is burn fully with the petrol with zero smoke.
Extra oil gives a weaker petrol to air ratio as well...not good....2 strokes running weak lead to hot running..
Is 1.50 good for yz250?
My big saw gets a hard work out . On a chainsaw mill ripping hardwood slabs. 40-1 with quality oil for me.
Ok, Thanks for the info. Craig
Hi Craig, I have heard my different opinions on this matter. What you explained does make sense. I do have a question. If there is too much in the oil could this cause carbon build up in the engine thus scoring the cylinder wall? To your point my brother-in-law always used a high oil ratio in his outboard engine & never had any issue.
Stay well, Joe Z
Hi Joe Z. First of all, I want thank you for your regular contributions to my content. I really do appreciate it. As for the carbon built up, I do think that this could be an issue in the long term. I personally though haven’t yet had a machine experience engine failure due to too much carbon in my two stroke engines (to my knowledge anyway), but I can’t rule out this possibility long term. I think it would have to be a long term thing to create this sort of damage though. I have seen lots of carbon build up in two stroke in the past though. I suppose it depends a lot on what type and quality of oil and how well it burns in the engine (flash point). Thank Joe Z. Craig 👍👍👍
@@TheRepairSpecialist Always a pleasure visiting your channel. Beside the information it encourages me to up my YT game. I guess the best bet is to keep an eye on any carbon build at regular maintenance. Stay well, Joe Z
I have a question. I have a stihl MS311, it came with a 20 inch bar, but I am running a 25 inch bar, should I use a 40:1, or should I just use the 50:1 ? I’m using the synthetic stihl oil. Thank you.
Well, in my personal opinion, and to guarantee optimum performance, and for your saw's longevity, it's crucial to adhere to the manufacturer's recommendations when it comes to the fuel-to-oil ratio for your Stihl MS311 chainsaw. The MS311 is intended to run at a 50:1 fuel-to-oil ratio, in accordance with Stihl's specifications.
No matter what bar length you're using, it's preferable to adhere to the suggested 50:1 ratio. Especially if you are using synthetic Stihl oil, which is really good quality. This ratio will indeed do a very good job at minimising the possibility of accelerated wear and damage by ensuring sufficient lubrication and protection for the chainsaw's engine.
Although a 40:1 ratio might provide a little bit extra oil for lubrication, you will find that the engine may well smoke more, and run at a hotter temperature. It may lag a little as well, which will probably create the need for you to start making carburetor adjustments. So deviating from the manufacturer's recommendations, in your case, can result in less than ideal performance, and higher carbon buildup. So, regardless of the bar length you're using, my personal advice is to adhere to Stihl's recommended 50:1 fuel-to-oil ratio.
If you are still unsure about this, then it's always a good idea to refer to the official Stihl documentation for your saw, or contact their customer care for advice relating to your chainsaw model.
I hope has helped a little.
Craig
@@TheRepairSpecialist thank you, sir. I do appreciate your advice on this one. I enjoy running my saw, and I want to keep my saw in top shape. I love watching your videos, and again you are a big help. I look forward to watching more videos.
Isn't there a standard formulated oil, like 10W30 or 5W20 4 stroke engine oil so that there's no guess work as to quality!?
Yes, there is. But rather than being about viscosity it is about testing the additive package in the lubricant.
There are three active standards bodies: 1) the American Petrolium Institue (API), 2) the Japanese Automobile Standards Organization (JASO), and 3) Europe's ISO. JASO and ISO have superceeded API's standards. JASO has four standards, FA, FB, FC and FD, (FD being the highest) . ISO has four standards, L-EGA, L-EGB, L-EGC and L-EGD (L-EGD being the highest) For bevity sake, the ISO adopted the JASO standards and extended them, improved them, by requiring more cleaners in the adative package.
There has been revolutionary improvements in two-cycle fuel additives. The FD standard requires that FD lubricants added to gasoline for a 50:1 ratio be backwards compatible for FA, FB and FC, plus be backwards compatible to higher fuel:lubricant ratios. FD mixed at 50:1 is required to lubricate engines that require a 40:1 mix, or a 32:1 mix, or 25:1 mix or whatever:1 no matter what the owner's manual calls for. It has that much lubricant in it and it is that good.
Only purchase lubricants that feature FD or L-EGD on the label. JASO's list of certified oils is easy to find on the internet.
The 'oil is cheap insurance argument' no longer applies. The 'use this ratio when you do this' argument no longers applies. Those arguments are almost 50 years old and come from the days when manufacturers were switching from using HD 30w oil at 20:1 to modern lubricant additives.
The one caveat i can think of is that your two-cycle engines need accurate carburetor adjustments. Ear-alone tuning is dangerous in modern engines using moden lubricants. Inadequate fuel to air mixtures through the carburetor is identified as inadequate lubrication because of the scoring. But it isn't the lack of oil, it is the lack of fuel (gasoline plus lubricant) and too much air. If the oxygen in the super heated cylinder does not combine with gasoline it will combine with the metals and wreck the engine.
I got a strong Brush Cutter from Dolmar. The Man who sold it to me said he always used the Brush Cutter with a richer mixture. He never said what mixture exactly. The Manual says 1:100, 1:50 and 1:40 is recommended. Im thinking now about using 1:25. The cutter can hold 0.5 litre. So with 1:25 mix I need to add 20 millilitres of oil and top it off with fuel. Im afraid the Brush Cutter will have Problems starting because of so much oil. Is my fear justified or not? Im happy about any opinions.
I doubt it’ll have issues starting… If it says 50:1 I use 40:1. The T-27 I have says 25:1 on the cap. Oil quality has improved but I still mix 20:1 & it generally starts first pull. I have two cycle weed eaters, mowers & leaf blowers so I keep 20:1 & 40:1 mixed.
Unless they have upgraded to the top standard lately; Stihl Ultra is not FD rated. I have switched to Husqvarna oil and have some Echo on hand to try too. The exhause odor is more tolerable with the Husky product, for whatever that is worth.
Thank you for your feedback
Where can I find that bottle with the gas line & oil line? Can someone help me pls
EBay or Amazon is the best bet maybe
I got mine from Amazon
І все ж таки потрібно дотримуватися пропорції масла і бензину які рекомендує виробник бензопили чи мотокоси,а не виробник масла.Масла можна додавати менше якщо це синтетика,:husqvarna xp,stihl hp ultra,а не мінералка stihl hp чи будь яка інша напівсинтетика
What octane gasoline do you recommend for 2-strokes?
Any, as long as there is no ethanol. Never run any % ethanol fuel in small gas engines. That goes for 2-stroke as well as 4-stroke. There is a noticable difference in operation, as well as not damaging the machine in the long run.
Ethanol is hydroscopic, meaning it draws water to it. Even in the gas can or tank on a machine, it will draw out the moisture from the air and that water ends up in your fuel. Corroding parts, and causing damage.