What would be great is to see the stock SCX10 going over rocks and obstacles, and then see what each of these mods brings with it. That is...does it really help the truck, or is it a personal preference thing to set your rig apart from others. There are some mods that really help the truck in climbing and overcoming obstacles...but there are times its just the driver and experience in knowing how to pick the right line to make it to the top. Maybe in future video's you could include video comparisons so that we the viewers might make better choices in updating our rigs...or leaving them stock.
I definitely feel that the GCM Racing motor relocation kit and transfer case is a much better option. In my opinion there are only two reasons to relocate. 1, to move the weight of the motor and tranny forward, and 2, to make room for an interior. In sure there is a difference in cost, but... I've been running the GCM kit in my Scx10 for about a year now. Best upgrade I've ever done by far. Thumbs-up 😎
+RC Crawler Workbench you're missing a huge part of your first point, yes moving the weight forward BUT it as equally important to keep it low. The best option would be the Toyzuki mount and his transfer case. The GCM puts the weight very high. I have one of theirs as well, but it's not nearly as effective on the performance side. The Toyzuki makes a huge difference in COG in comparison.
Great video, very inspiring! There's so much I want to do to my SCX10 now, when I was hesitant to change anything before. Now I just need the budget. Lol. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Not sur how they would look on the deadbolt, but the vanquish sliders for the jk fit turnigy nano saddle packs perfectly. Its almost like they were designed to fit those batteries. I run both the 5100 and the 6000 packs in mine.
Funny how you happened to do this mod on this week. I literally just got my Toyzuki mount in today for my class 3 build. I'm gonna be running ar60's so I'm a little more concerned about clearance issues but I imagine I'll figure something out!! Good vid
I like this forward mount looks super clean. The thing is now where will you mount the battery. I think the battery is going to end up higher than it was before defeating the whole idea of a lower COG. But I have not seen your plans for the battery yet. It just seems all battery options left are higher than the battery was.
This old video popped up! Good timing too. Does Toyzuki still make these, I'm getting a UMG-10, and the low Motor Mount would definitely be a good thing. Maybe even on my SCX10 II, if it clears the stock Panhard. If not, does anyone make something like this?? Thanks and stay SAFE! 😷 Carmine ✈🚂🚙
Hi your videos have inspired me to modify. It would be great to see the rig running, especially with the more involved Mods so I can see if the improvements are for me or not. Keep up the great vids
Harley i would recommend checking out BPC custom chassis for your sliders and electronics solution. I imagine you allready have what your going to run in mind. Bruice is a local sacramento guy and is a huge part of our comunity out here.
Don't get me wrong I see how it would lower the COG right up till ya put the battery back in. I'm wondering if your going to modify that plate and run a 2200mah 3s on one side or a couple 1500 3s lipos one on each side would keep it low with the weight centered. Hell to equal a 2200mah you could go as small as 2 1100mah 3s lipos.
So, we buy the Howler custom tray and then don't use it anymore? Or is it going in the back of the rig in the future. Couldn't we have just fabricated a free battery tray to start? I see the increase in performance but what was the Howler Custom purchase for? Temporary mod?
Radio Control Patrol As we progress there is a good chance that several parts will be replaced more than once to fit the need of the build. Normally builds don't progress quite this fast unless building with a lot of parts all at once. However for now it doesn't mean we have seen the Howler Customs plate for the last time.
Yes I do that with my builds also, you always try to plan ahead but things evolve and change, but at it usually pays off at the end with a kick ass rig.
I just bought the Axial SCX10 Deadbolt last week as my first crawler, and I bought 2 Venom 2C LiPo batteries. I haven't ran it any more than inside my bedroom for about 2 minutes. Anyway, I looked the rig up on TH-cam and saw your budget build and am watching them all. The one question I have (might have covered this in a later episode, I haven't watched past this one yet) is, is there a way to cover the open gears so that rocks and debris doesn't get caught up in the teeth? I don't know why I am asking this because I really can't see me doing this mod...not anytime soon anyway, but I was just curious when watching the video. Thanks!
Awesome vid as always. I have a few questions about my build that maybe you could help me with. I just ordered the Holmes hobbies 13t crawlmaster do you think my stock axial drive shafts will hold up? I also had him program my CC bec to 6 volts. What are the benefits if that? I seen where it was the popular program setting so I blindly went for it.
Stock driveshafts in what rig? The HD Deadbolt versions, yes. The 6.0v setting will give you more power out of most servos rather than 4.8v that many ESC's output.
Cut the Howler plate in half... one side for the electronics and the other side for the battery.. Or just cut reliefs in the upper cross plate to clear the driveshaft and motor.
Hey harley, I've been slowly upgrading my deadbolt using some of your suggestions. Would you say a front weight biase is the #1 performance enhancing modification?
+Gaelan Garrett it's not about just one thing. It had to be balanced with low Center of gravity and overall weight. You can't just throw a bunch of stuff up front and think you'll get the same performance. That makes sense?
+Harley Designs Great, makes perfect sense. I moved the battery up front and it helped with climbing, but it did raise the center of gravity a bit so I was rolling a tad easier. Need to find the balance. The towzuki motor mount moves some wight up front, but also keeps the wight low as possible, then frees up room for the battery in the center of the chassis, while also placing it lower; either between the rails, or on the plate beside the rail. Thanks for the insight, Harley. And thanks for helping me spend my money!
Can't unspend the money! Of course I could sell it for a reduced amount, since used parts are worth less than a new part, however I'll touch on it next week. You can modify the tray to still have some good functionality with this setup. If you check out the Facebook page you can actually see what I did already.
Can i buy that battery plate from you now harley? Lol i think I'm gonna skip this mod because i just did all new 4 link setup front and rear and is not in my budget to buy a shorty lipo and i really like not worrying about the run time. Great series man, i look forward to Thursdays now
Ok cool man, i was only half serious anyway. I like getting things slightly used to save a few bucks when i can. I'd really like to find a clod buster or tf2 body for my scx10 build
+Harley Designs do you think there will be clearing issues if one was to get the part that spreads out the upper links on the axle? I really like this mod or I may go with the rc4wd but that cost more and ad more weight with the tranny and motor on the front. my other concern is I have the jevne brick plate which will have to go but my mip shaft hits the plate hard and almost wore through to my Lipo but I moved the plate back 1/2 inch and moved the battery tray upward maybe 1/4 inch upward to solve that. now I wonder if my mip would strike the motor. I believe I have those problems because I have gear head lift kit mounted sideways and upward to bring my truck lower than stock but have a good deal of flex with my 110mm king shocks. any thoughts? oh and awsome vids man. I've seen them before but I finally subscribe.
+Joe Pansacula it's hard to say exactly what combo of parts will work. Sometimes it requires custom links to make everything work. Not sure what RC4WD piece you're talking about. Longer shocks can cause issues, and personally i wouldn't run a 110mm shock. They cause the truck to have too much flex, for the best performance you really don't want all that much flex.
For competition I can fit a small battery in front near the motor still. Also, you cannot mount a battery as low as this motor is mounted. So with moving the motor up front and even just running a 2200 pack on the skid where the motor was, I now have a much better center of gravity that a front mounted battery could give.
I understand the benefits of having the motor low, but from a performance standpoint I think it is better to put the battery in that location. The battery is much heavier than the motor.
Moving the motor allows for a very low battery position as well. Lower than was possible before moving the motor. Giving you yet another performance benefit.
Dean, Double J on RCC just tackled a 4-link with this setup this week. Check out the ToyZuki thread on RCCrawler for Jason's how-to on the whole thing. If you can't find it, send me a message on Facebook.
DrDiff952 on RCC tried or buy one tonight but was sold out I am in contact with ToyZilla about the next production run. I had flipped my skid plate and tranny around, (spur up front) should I flip it back?
Granted the work is not that big of a deal, BUT, for MY $67, it is going to need to be better though out, as in supplying the modded parts WITH the motor mount, AND for that same $67. Some of us dun't have drill presses and grinders. But still, even with the adjusted shafts that too much. The GCM is far cheaper but still not ideal (altering shock tower position(designed to go one way) and bod post position (new hole in my bod, NO thanks)). I say NEXT, where's the one that works right right out the box, well thought out and dun't cost a mortgage payment.
Lol this guy has no clue what he is talking about ....this isn't a basher or a jumper ...it's a crawler front weight is needed dumb ass...man what a jerk
What would be great is to see the stock SCX10 going over rocks and obstacles, and then see what each of these mods brings with it. That is...does it really help the truck, or is it a personal preference thing to set your rig apart from others. There are some mods that really help the truck in climbing and overcoming obstacles...but there are times its just the driver and experience in knowing how to pick the right line to make it to the top. Maybe in future video's you could include video comparisons so that we the viewers might make better choices in updating our rigs...or leaving them stock.
I definitely feel that the GCM Racing motor relocation kit and transfer case is a much better option. In my opinion there are only two reasons to relocate. 1, to move the weight of the motor and tranny forward, and 2, to make room for an interior. In sure there is a difference in cost, but...
I've been running the GCM kit in my Scx10 for about a year now. Best upgrade I've ever done by far. Thumbs-up 😎
+RC Crawler Workbench you're missing a huge part of your first point, yes moving the weight forward BUT it as equally important to keep it low. The best option would be the Toyzuki mount and his transfer case. The GCM puts the weight very high. I have one of theirs as well, but it's not nearly as effective on the performance side. The Toyzuki makes a huge difference in COG in comparison.
+Harley Designs I do see your point. Pros and cons to everything i guess.
RC Crawler Workbench GMC kit?
NO....... GCM!! 😲
Great video, very inspiring! There's so much I want to do to my SCX10 now, when I was hesitant to change anything before. Now I just need the budget. Lol. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
I'm sure you'll be able to handle it! Once you start, you'll gain confidence fast.
Very nice job! There is a formal kit for front mount in China made by CNC.
Love watching these older videos
Excellent video, I agree, keep pushing and doing these mods, it shows the endless possibilities to customize one's rig. Thanks again.
Not sur how they would look on the deadbolt, but the vanquish sliders for the jk fit turnigy nano saddle packs perfectly. Its almost like they were designed to fit those batteries. I run both the 5100 and the 6000 packs in mine.
Great wealth of knowledge thank you .. can I make this front motor mount work on a SWB 9.5" ?
Funny how you happened to do this mod on this week. I literally just got my Toyzuki mount in today for my class 3 build. I'm gonna be running ar60's so I'm a little more concerned about clearance issues but I imagine I'll figure something out!! Good vid
With the AR60 diff off to the other side you should be set!
Great upgrade. VERY good explanation of how it's done. Keep it up :)
Good job. Good how to on the install
From a performance point of view, is 3 link front, 4 link rear, the way to go? Which front 3 link mount do you use? Tempted to get this conversion.
I like this forward mount looks super clean. The thing is now where will you mount the battery. I think the battery is going to end up higher than it was before defeating the whole idea of a lower COG. But I have not seen your plans for the battery yet. It just seems all battery options left are higher than the battery was.
Jacob Hendrickson actually the battery will end up being much lower then before, lower than possible in anyway previously.
This old video popped up!
Good timing too. Does Toyzuki still make these, I'm getting a UMG-10, and the low Motor Mount would definitely be a good thing. Maybe even on my SCX10 II, if it clears the stock Panhard.
If not, does anyone make something like this??
Thanks and stay SAFE! 😷
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
Hi your videos have inspired me to modify. It would be great to see the rig running, especially with the more involved Mods so I can see if the improvements are for me or not. Keep up the great vids
Harley i would recommend checking out BPC custom chassis for your sliders and electronics solution. I imagine you allready have what your going to run in mind. Bruice is a local sacramento guy and is a huge part of our comunity out here.
Don't get me wrong I see how it would lower the COG right up till ya put the battery back in. I'm wondering if your going to modify that plate and run a 2200mah 3s on one side or a couple 1500 3s lipos one on each side would keep it low with the weight centered. Hell to equal a 2200mah you could go as small as 2 1100mah 3s lipos.
So, we buy the Howler custom tray and then don't use it anymore? Or is it going in the back of the rig in the future. Couldn't we have just fabricated a free battery tray to start? I see the increase in performance but what was the Howler Custom purchase for? Temporary mod?
Radio Control Patrol As we progress there is a good chance that several parts will be replaced more than once to fit the need of the build. Normally builds don't progress quite this fast unless building with a lot of parts all at once. However for now it doesn't mean we have seen the Howler Customs plate for the last time.
Harley Designs
Thanks for clearing that up. I liked the tray so much I hated to see it go! Loving the build, keep it going my friend.
Yes I do that with my builds also, you always try to plan ahead but things evolve and change, but at it usually pays off at the end with a kick ass rig.
I just bought the Axial SCX10 Deadbolt last week as my first crawler, and I bought 2 Venom 2C LiPo batteries. I haven't ran it any more than inside my bedroom for about 2 minutes. Anyway, I looked the rig up on TH-cam and saw your budget build and am watching them all.
The one question I have (might have covered this in a later episode, I haven't watched past this one yet) is, is there a way to cover the open gears so that rocks and debris doesn't get caught up in the teeth? I don't know why I am asking this because I really can't see me doing this mod...not anytime soon anyway, but I was just curious when watching the video. Thanks!
Awesome vid as always. I have a few questions about my build that maybe you could help me with. I just ordered the Holmes hobbies 13t crawlmaster do you think my stock axial drive shafts will hold up? I also had him program my CC bec to 6 volts. What are the benefits if that? I seen where it was the popular program setting so I blindly went for it.
RC crawlin coalition is my Facebook group would love for you to join in and share your knowledge..
Stock driveshafts in what rig? The HD Deadbolt versions, yes. The 6.0v setting will give you more power out of most servos rather than 4.8v that many ESC's output.
The spacers that were in between the spur gear and trans. What size are they? Axial switched to a 1 piece spacer. So my build is temporally stalled.
Cut the Howler plate in half... one side for the electronics and the other side for the battery.. Or just cut reliefs in the upper cross plate to clear the driveshaft and motor.
That's similar to what I did, I covered it in this weeks video a little.
Hey harley, I've been slowly upgrading my deadbolt using some of your suggestions. Would you say a front weight biase is the #1 performance enhancing modification?
+Gaelan Garrett it's not about just one thing. It had to be balanced with low Center of gravity and overall weight. You can't just throw a bunch of stuff up front and think you'll get the same performance. That makes sense?
+Harley Designs Great, makes perfect sense. I moved the battery up front and it helped with climbing, but it did raise the center of gravity a bit so I was rolling a tad easier. Need to find the balance. The towzuki motor mount moves some wight up front, but also keeps the wight low as possible, then frees up room for the battery in the center of the chassis, while also placing it lower; either between the rails, or on the plate beside the rail. Thanks for the insight, Harley. And thanks for helping me spend my money!
Shouldn't you now take the Howler RC plate off of the budget?
Can't unspend the money! Of course I could sell it for a reduced amount, since used parts are worth less than a new part, however I'll touch on it next week. You can modify the tray to still have some good functionality with this setup. If you check out the Facebook page you can actually see what I did already.
where could we buy this motor mount if we want it
I only seen you remove two spacers behind slipper assembly why did you say there was three
Sweet work mate love that stuff
Can i buy that battery plate from you now harley? Lol i think I'm gonna skip this mod because i just did all new 4 link setup front and rear and is not in my budget to buy a shorty lipo and i really like not worrying about the run time. Great series man, i look forward to Thursdays now
Mike Nicol the battery plates are for sale on my website, HarleyDesigns.com. Howard will get a new one shipped out to you right away.
Ok cool man, i was only half serious anyway. I like getting things slightly used to save a few bucks when i can. I'd really like to find a clod buster or tf2 body for my scx10 build
I wanta do this , looks cool
looks like if you have the 4link setup it won't clear the link. Looks sweet though!
A stock style 4-link would not clear but people have setup a properly functioning 4-link using this piece.
+Harley Designs do you think there will be clearing issues if one was to get the part that spreads out the upper links on the axle? I really like this mod or I may go with the rc4wd but that cost more and ad more weight with the tranny and motor on the front. my other concern is I have the jevne brick plate which will have to go but my mip shaft hits the plate hard and almost wore through to my Lipo but I moved the plate back 1/2 inch and moved the battery tray upward maybe 1/4 inch upward to solve that. now I wonder if my mip would strike the motor. I believe I have those problems because I have gear head lift kit mounted sideways and upward to bring my truck lower than stock but have a good deal of flex with my 110mm king shocks. any thoughts?
oh and awsome vids man. I've seen them before but I finally subscribe.
+Joe Pansacula it's hard to say exactly what combo of parts will work. Sometimes it requires custom links to make everything work.
Not sure what RC4WD piece you're talking about.
Longer shocks can cause issues, and personally i wouldn't run a 110mm shock. They cause the truck to have too much flex, for the best performance you really don't want all that much flex.
I need this servo mount but can’t find one like it anywhere
Yeah these haven't been made for many years now. The SCX10-2 style pretty much took over and the old style all went away.
nice mod cant wait to see whats next . what do ya think about rc4wd scx10 portals
Jason Cordova I haven't ran them yet, but I have concerns on the front axle. I have an idea on another use but it will take some work.
Is there not a way to do a inline front motor setup that gets rid of the spur and pinion gears?
+Outdoor Life there are options for it but they generally put the motor up high.
What is the benefit of a front mounted motor? Doesn't the battery weigh more so you want that mounted forward the most?
For competition I can fit a small battery in front near the motor still. Also, you cannot mount a battery as low as this motor is mounted. So with moving the motor up front and even just running a 2200 pack on the skid where the motor was, I now have a much better center of gravity that a front mounted battery could give.
hey you could not put a battery next to your trans where the motor used to sit
Would you be able to put the gear cover on with the motor up front and servo on the axle?
+Tyler Parker not likely but it's also not needed.
+Harley Designs ok thanks for reply anyway
Can someone do a mini crawler with upgrades?? Thanks
Mini crawlers are not a very popular class so doing much with them doesn't drive much traffic.
I need this
With this mod, does the transmission now count as a transfer case for scale comp scoring?
Yes it will
Schweet! I have a RC4WD CMS kit installed and have been very happy with it, I have been looking for a front-motor mod that will allow me to keep it.
where do i buy one
question wehre can i gut These Drive shafts or how are they called
+Der RealBatman there are all MIP driveshafts and driveshaft parts.
I know this is an older vid but was considering getting this forward motor mount button your honest opinion how much of a performance increase is it?
It is NOT much of one , that's the kicker. moving your batt will do the same and save you from greedy gadget peddlers.
I understand the benefits of having the motor low, but from a performance standpoint I think it is better to put the battery in that location. The battery is much heavier than the motor.
Moving the motor allows for a very low battery position as well. Lower than was possible before moving the motor. Giving you yet another performance benefit.
Do one on a micro crawler
225rc - NO profit in it.....
I like watt I c but look like a lot of problems lol good stuf
Once you get everything set once then you're all good!
So Cool. I want to do this, m But I have 4 link and am SO glad you said that It can be done with custom link rods!
GREAT PRICE.
Dean, Double J on RCC just tackled a 4-link with this setup this week. Check out the ToyZuki thread on RCCrawler for Jason's how-to on the whole thing. If you can't find it, send me a message on Facebook.
DrDiff952 on RCC tried or buy one tonight but was sold out I am in contact with ToyZilla about the next production run.
I had flipped my skid plate and tranny around, (spur up front) should I flip it back?
Dean Cory Yes, you will need the transmission output to be on the passenger side.
Where did you bot that front motor mount at can you tell me
Why, at the bot store, of course! 😅😆😂😂
Pretty damn cool!
Granted the work is not that big of a deal, BUT, for MY $67, it is going to need to be better though out, as in supplying the modded parts WITH the motor mount, AND for that same $67. Some of us dun't have drill presses and grinders. But still, even with the adjusted shafts that too much. The GCM is far cheaper but still not ideal (altering shock tower position(designed to go one way) and bod post position (new hole in my bod, NO thanks)). I say NEXT, where's the one that works right right out the box, well thought out and dun't cost a mortgage payment.
👍
Please don't think I'm picking at your ideas you probably have a plan for the battery to also be lower lol.
shit mod the car will flip and land on its face when jumping the center of gravity is more on the front so no thank you !!!
+fouzai alaa I don't think you understand performance crawling modifications. This isn't a Slash.
Lol this guy has no clue what he is talking about ....this isn't a basher or a jumper ...it's a crawler front weight is needed dumb ass...man what a jerk