Snap! 10/15 min videos that are cut or sped up when he does re-balls and solders memory chips are enjoyable to watch. I like his little rambling too. I learn a lot
I really liked this video, You answered a bunch of questions that I am sure most viewers were curious about. We got great bonus context like the inside of the testing box, the inside of your heater. And most of all, we got another successful repair to enjoy. I would love it if you would bring these long form videos out every so often.
I got the same spot welder! Was like $22 and works really well. Made a few "Makita" batteries with it and everthing worked like a dream. Can only recommend.
@@northwestrepair Put the ceramic bloc on the underside, not in the back of the heat element, to stay away from the heat all you can... Maybe it will help
Yep best bet I put tin Coated copper Ferrels on every thing saves a lot of problems and protects the copper wires from any crimping or clamping dammage
@@northwestrepairyou may want to take a look at lambda sensors cables, they are high temperature resistant. Ask your local car mechanic for a bad oxygen sensor (lambda sensor) with long, undamaged cables.
Something that would be cool I would definitely tip you a couple bucks, if you could make a small buyers guide of best models and manufacturers based on quality of fabrication. I think a lot of people would appreciate that. Thanks for you video! Always a pleasure!
Between Techpowerup (website) and Buildzoid (TH-cam channel AHOC) there's pretty much a PCB analysis of every card model available. You can also easily determine which models have heatsinks & cooling solutions that are overkill and which don't have nearly enough. It's not foolproof but that's how I shop for a GPU.
This would make a great video, like a brand tier list, I kept watching the video and now it seems like Its no longer necessary and brands dont matter since it depends on the model.
I use carbon-based tweezers instead of metal when soldering, so that the heat is concentrated on the soldered parts and not transferred into the tweezers lowering the temperature (especially when using pointed solder bits), I learned this from a friend who does metal brazing for a living, he had the jaws of his vice custom-made from dense bakelite material and I asked him why and thus it leads to a discussion of heat dissipation during brazing and soldering.
I ordered 250k .45 solder balls. Going to give this a try. All your fault. Well a few other channels as well. Thanks for sharing all your vast knowledge.
Really liked the long format, always informative. But I really miss your longer reball with music. Something very therapeutic about it. Also would really like to see your thoughts on the spot welder.
When I got my first 8086, 8088, and then 386, all the cards were plugged in standing up straight. They were ‘desk top’ computers that usually the monitor sat on top of. Now for so wacky reason, motherboards are on their sides, and heavy video cards are sideways stressing everything from the board connection to the bearings on the fans…. WHY?… did some tech designer loose their mind and understanding of physics or gravity?
Vertical PCs have existed a lot longer than heavy GPUs, and only very recently they got heavy enough to cause issues. It's not a tech designer losing their mind, but decades of standards that aren't going to get overhauled just because some optional component starts causing some unforeseen issues. And it's not like this hasn't been solved. Every GPU ships with some form of support bracket today, and some cases allow mounting the GPU vertically via a riser cable.
44:55 I used to tin wires before attaching them like that as well until we did a wire retention test at work on a project. We found that the tinned wire was easier to pull out than the bare copper wire and a ferrule was the best retention. We were all surprised by that outcome.
I bought a kit of high temp crimp connectors from the service counter at a local restaurant supply businesses. They are used in all sorts of restaurant equipment.
Hi. One thing you can try on your heater is to connect the two ceramic protected wires directly to the connector. Direct copper connection is better then with cable shoes you are putting on the end of the wire. If you are able to change the two wires change them to a bigger size wire. That will reduce heat production at the connection point and in the wire itself.
Je me demande pourquoi les gens n'utilise pas une extension PCI-E afin de réduire le risque de distorsion et de casse sur ce genre de carte qui sont de plus en plus lourde?
You can't use flux instead of thermal paste due to it's viscosity and some other parameters. It'll be very prone to pump-out, will smell weirdly and if activated will loose some of it's thermal conductivness. Great video, as usual ;)
I confess this level of expertise is beyond my interests but it was still fun to watch - timestamps for the key sections would be appreciated! Anyway, it made me feel happy I am using the supporting stand of my 3080 Suprim X since day one.
So the way that we fix bent cards like that is we usually heat it up in an oven and get two peices of balsa wood and clamp them together we let it heat up and then every few minutes after it heats up we tighten it to straighten it out. Most of the non flat/surface mount components will have to be taken off first
I have ran several sapphire cards and all the amd ones have been solid the 6950xt and 7900xt are the latest the drivers have always given me more trouble than the board itself
Steel crimp ferrules are what you want, but if you can't find those, just snip the tab off the crimp you used and make sure the screw in the terminal clamps down onto the sire through the remaining crimp collar. If you just clamp the tab end, the problem is that as you use that heater, the heat from the large current flow softens the crimp and it starts to relax and the connection progressively gets worse and worse.. If you clamp down on the wire, the ferrule (or the remaining crimp collar) basically protects the wire from damage by the screw, but allows you to really crank down and get a tight connection..
If you ever eat somewhere fish and chips where they dont frequently change oil, you already experienced it... Also people would be amazed at how low hygene is at the most of the restoraunts /fasttfoods.. They would never come close to eat outside again...
hi if you make yourself some killed spirit flux ,or cut up a AA battery casing the soft type ,cut into tiny peices then add battery acid just enough till its covered now put it outside and leave it till the reaction completely stops now pour the liquid into a tiny glass jar with a lid ,just a cotton bud dipped in ,then rub on the metal to be soldered,it will etch stainless,alluminium,brass even spring steel ,will make the solder sick like glue
What you can do as board manufacturer is to have a stripe of plane on the outline and have the EMS place solder on it. Bottom AND top. 4mm width with 1mm solder on top. You will have a much harder time to bend the PCB. If you have that on both sides you can stand on a smaller PCB (if you are not like 400 pounds). If you have a big board, then a bar i the middle will also help further. If you are an engineer and fear for influence: OPAMP and fix it to the middle between high and low of the signals nearby. Pssht: you can also build a tunnel for your RAM signals and the tunnel itself is an active guard. Often this will work better than having GND / VCC, because capacity is U² dependand, while this also cancels all noise from the outside :) You MIGHT need to increase layers, but think about it: the price rise will be there - but it should amortize over like 1 in 100-200 PCBs dying of this. Also reworks cost money. You also safe manufacturing cost (stiffer = easier handling) and you have PLANES to solder something on - like a heatpipe to draw heat of the board or to solder your vapor chamber on which will even further stiffen the board AND you have fixed points for that and can increase manufacturing precision, thus lowering cost once again.
hi John.your burnt heater connections need NI-CHROME LUGS for hot connections. Nickel-Chrome Lugs are more heat resistant than the rest. thx for great content...
28:12 It’s an almost surgical operation; which brings me back to my first question, why don't graphics card manufacturers put a slot for GPU and Vram modules like in PC motherboards?
@@markwazowskinreal I think they can get around this with the technology they have today, and the graphics cards will be easier to repair and upgrade, imagine if you can add more VRAM and change GPUs, you buy a 4060 then you move to a 4090; I think manufacturers just don't want people to be able to upgrade and repair their graphics cards.
@@agentkruger no, you can't, ddr5 on laptops its unstable after 6000, so they are soldering it now, even on pc high ddr5 freq its no stable with 4 dimms. and you are forgetting that "GDDR6 and HBM still outperform DDR5 by 10x" , you can read about signal integrity and u will see that is impossible
@@malkyprijemny7077 because there is my understanding of things and the truth which are two distinct things but which can come together if there are other different opinions
the ends of the heater are bare resistive wire, it tends to het hard after overheating and is unable to solter,all resistive wires are nickle based so spot welding in nickle foil should work, the thing is it is still resistive so the key is to make as big of a conection patch as possible you could also try removing the beeds and braiding copper wire alongs side the one th t stick out then sticking the beeds back on the brade, but that would increase the load on the heater itself
Really enjoy your work. It's a shame that it takes so much time, because it's not the sort of assembly line work that is going to get you a "better than factory" $1m house, but for the people you're helping who have spent a fortune on these cards who have no one else to turn to - you're basically like their saviour.
Not sure if it'd help but I've had good luck with backup battery power stations in a condo that can't handle a lot of load where I need it. Unlike a lot of brands the two Dabbsson units I got shares the load across both inverters, effectively doubling the max output power, along with the capacity. Some brands like this also support 240V with two units using an additional parallel connector. Just one of mine by itself handles up to 2200W continuous (close to where many 15A breakers start tripping), and cost me ~$500 during a sale. A lot of power with a lot of capacity obviously isn't cheap but it might be worth looking into during the holidays, unless you want to build your own. The portability of these things is really convenient... Basically a little generator for power tools you can throw in the trunk of a car.
Copper connectors will work pretty well for your heater thats what we use in our welders and they can get pretty hot at times, soldier will just wick up the wire as it heats up but im sure you know this
I always find interesting how the homes in the US are wired. I live in a tiny house in the UK but have 240v and 32A for my sockets in the living room, while homes in the US are much bigger and have 16A for general use sockets with 120v. So 4x less for a bigger space!
45:12 If you want the cable really crimped, screw the screw in, out , in, out and in. That should distribute the forces evenly. Electricians do it this way.
13:47 You should be using pipe cable shoes that you can solder on the cable. 45:00 Never use tin at the end of a cable. Tin is soft and after some time it will make the cable loose. That is why you don't tin the cable ends in a lamp or other home device. You always use end sleeves ...
Flux will probably pumpout within one duty cycle as thermal paste. I have switched to a Thermal Grizzly Kryosheet on my RTX 4070 Ti, stock temps again and they won't degrade.
A descent crimper will make your life easier, forget the welding it, consider brazing instead... its often overlooked but its good for getting into little tiny crevices, have even seen cracked cylinder blocks repaired that way...
Flux is used to keep the solder from oxidizing. While it does conduct, it's much worse than metal. Also flux fumes are ... not so healthy, so that's why you have that fan next to you to blow them off. If it stays solid, it will just keep drying out. So anyway: it may work short term but that's it
Tony, if you were to buy a GPU right now and had to choose a brand, based exclusively on build quality from a repairability standpoint, regardless of it being NVIDIA or AMD, which would you rather buy?
Do you have any tips using lead free solder? Everytime I've used it the stuff refused to flow to the contact, in this case rheostat wires. Lead is the way to go.
I wouldn’t use that style crimper. Use one that has a center style crush not outer edge. It will improve when using any sort of butt connector and the continuity in the long-term. After 25 years in automotive and dealing with electrical and building some harnesses from time to time, it is a better solution.
It’s funny cause I’m by far the smartest person in my family and this is in agreement and I talk to my self whenever I’m doing something with brain power and understanding. Einstein did too the smartest people often do. Oh and I’m also responding to you out loud when you talk about what to do next and I often say exactly what you do next 😂 it’s funny.
@@northwestrepair Thank you for your response, I like what you do, I hope one day I can repair motherboards like you, that's why I follow you because you have a lot of experience and you know explain to people👨🏫😃 Merci beaucoup
MSI 3080 Ventus - I have already repaired several of these GPUs, and I can say one thing, that after unsoldering the GPU, you need to carefully check whether any of the pads from "CB46 to CB61" are not loose, if so, I tear out and insert a new one.
Just a question in general, why are there no replacement cores available to purchase? You can even buy replacement memory through Mouser or Digi-key. Why aren't replacement cores made available?
Because they'd have to be taken off existing boards, which only makes sense if the board is destroyed and somehow the core survived whatever destroyed, which is needless to say, extremely rare. The cores are made in house by GPU manufactures and not by 3rd party manufactures like everything else. Many cores online can cost A LOT, and can often be scams. Tony talks about this and has pictures comparing real and fakes cores on his discord server.
I just fixed a HP 4070ti and it had the WORST quality solder balls ive ever seen! The card had zero physical damage, the memory rails were measuring 180ohms on Micron memory and when i removed the solder all of it was completely grey, every single solder ball was oxidized and it bubbled and fizzed when heated. Also when cleaning the solder off the board it left literal dirt all over the board. I've never seen anything like it before. Lead free solder is the WORST.
@northwestrepair Do not tin the end of a wire going into a screw connection! Tinned wire will deform over time, loosening the connection and produce a big fire hazard, especially if high amperage is involved. Also tin will always go much deeper into the wire, than just the connection point, especially if it has a lot of strands. Wire with tin is less flexible, so there will be a breaking point where the tin ends due to most future bends starting and ending right there. Instead you should use crimped end sleeves. Can be bought in China for cheap, along with a definitely good enough criming tool. (For the resulting connection it doesn't matter if the crimped wire has 4 or 6 sides in the end.)
ROHS came into effect around 2006, with lead free packaging being mandated since 09, modern lead free solder chemistry is mostly no worse to work then 60/40 and actually has better mechanical properties then 60/40 in many cases. Clearly the reality is that its just hard to keep such massive FC-BGA packages on a whippy piece of fiberglass, especially when the cards arent mechanically supported properly and then beat to hell in shipping lol.
got my answer i suppose. not direct but, me having a big ass 4070ti 3 fan *gigabyte gaming OC V1* and wondering about how it comes in for repair. just keep it supported. which it is. (even tho its not the way the directions showed) as it wouldn work that way. its still mounted to the GPU and being supported off the power supply cover. side note- extension cables "CHEAP" 50 dollar or under range are BAD for newer GPU's had a 3.3v rail issue on my 5800x, 4070ti, 2x2tb nvme drives. which pulled down the 3.3v rail to 3.1v sure enough removing the pretty cables made my issue vanish. (yes, cables were the issue tested a few times with/without) always same results on a multimeter. now im at 3.34v constant on this 1000w seasonic power supply... could be a vid idea even tho its out of your element somewhat to test voltage drop on extension cables...
i think the problem with that ceramic connector could be fixed if you tried before to clean it up using some sort of slightly mild acid to and then alcohol and then heat it with the hotair to like pre-heat it then try to solder it (soldering it) ...after a bit of thinking its much easier to just spot weld it in place👀
14:40 If you want AMD GPU, then buy 7900 XTX from Sapphire. Except Sapphire 7900 XTX, every other AMD card is garbage from 6000 to 7000 series. If you want Nvidia, then buy 4090 from MSI. MSI 4090 Gaming Trio or Supreme are the best versions of 4090 out there.
What do you think about Powercolor's radeon 6000 red devil series cards ? I was told the ram on them is good, which is a reason to pick one rather than the other brands/models.
when building and repairing racing drones i hated lead free solder on tip if you have to solder it lose at home put some lead solder on there then it will melt more easy i have found
+1 for the longer format. I am glad others feel the same. I thought it was just me.
They wanted the same bend as their monitor!
Folding screens must be paired with folding cards.
Well duh.
How else do you bend the image?
@@VIT-ey8wo lol
The longer format is greatly appreciated.
Snap! 10/15 min videos that are cut or sped up when he does re-balls and solders memory chips are enjoyable to watch. I like his little rambling too. I learn a lot
I really liked this video, You answered a bunch of questions that I am sure most viewers were curious about. We got great bonus context like the inside of the testing box, the inside of your heater. And most of all, we got another successful repair to enjoy. I would love it if you would bring these long form videos out every so often.
I got the same spot welder! Was like $22 and works really well. Made a few "Makita" batteries with it and everthing worked like a dream. Can only recommend.
Get some ferrule crimper for the ceramic block, automation uses coated copper and car audio uses copper. Also flux helps with the carbon cleaning
Just ordered a kit. Thank you
@@northwestrepair Put the ceramic bloc on the underside, not in the back of the heat element, to stay away from the heat all you can... Maybe it will help
😨
Yep best bet I put tin Coated copper Ferrels on every thing saves a lot of problems and protects the copper wires from any crimping or clamping dammage
@@northwestrepairyou may want to take a look at lambda sensors cables, they are high temperature resistant. Ask your local car mechanic for a bad oxygen sensor (lambda sensor) with long, undamaged cables.
"The only way to fix the twist on the board is to flatten the board, put it on the flattest surface that you can, such as the Earth". Hahahaha.
"Whatever you afraid off. They'll do."😂 Nice one. Im not afraid off my zotac 1070 AMP extream. Its still working great.😊
Zotac cheaps out on fans, but power delivery is great
Clicked because of Fallout thumbnail stayed for the crazy expertism this man has
I would love to see a spreadsheet of good and garbaje boards by model, made by someone with this amount of knowledge.
I would pay for that
Same here
same with me
Safest bet is to assume everything is garbage until specifically proven otherwise.
the 50 minutes passed so quickly, love the content man
Something that would be cool I would definitely tip you a couple bucks, if you could make a small buyers guide of best models and manufacturers based on quality of fabrication. I think a lot of people would appreciate that. Thanks for you video! Always a pleasure!
Between Techpowerup (website) and Buildzoid (TH-cam channel AHOC) there's pretty much a PCB analysis of every card model available. You can also easily determine which models have heatsinks & cooling solutions that are overkill and which don't have nearly enough.
It's not foolproof but that's how I shop for a GPU.
This would make a great video, like a brand tier list, I kept watching the video and now it seems like Its no longer necessary and brands dont matter since it depends on the model.
Absolutely. I know he doesn't hold AMD in high regard
@@nobody-pr7fg you need to be more specific. AMD boards are well designed/protected but the cores are mostly garbo.
I love watching these videos. There is something cathartic about watching these repairs. Thank you for sharing.
really like this episode
Tony is the GOAT of GPU fixing! Cheers!
I use carbon-based tweezers instead of metal when soldering, so that the heat is concentrated on the soldered parts and not transferred into the tweezers lowering the temperature (especially when using pointed solder bits), I learned this from a friend who does metal brazing for a living, he had the jaws of his vice custom-made from dense bakelite material and I asked him why and thus it leads to a discussion of heat dissipation during brazing and soldering.
Like how you customize everything. Make it work for you
I love watching your workflow. Keep up the good work!
I ordered 250k .45 solder balls. Going to give this a try. All your fault. Well a few other channels as well. Thanks for sharing all your vast knowledge.
I like your recommendations for specific cards, and your explanations why.
Really liked the long format, always informative. But I really miss your longer reball with music. Something very therapeutic about it. Also would really like to see your thoughts on the spot welder.
When I got my first 8086, 8088, and then 386, all the cards were plugged in standing up straight.
They were ‘desk top’ computers that usually the monitor sat on top of.
Now for so wacky reason, motherboards are on their sides, and heavy video cards are sideways stressing everything from the board connection to the bearings on the fans….
WHY?… did some tech designer loose their mind and understanding of physics or gravity?
Vertical PCs have existed a lot longer than heavy GPUs, and only very recently they got heavy enough to cause issues. It's not a tech designer losing their mind, but decades of standards that aren't going to get overhauled just because some optional component starts causing some unforeseen issues.
And it's not like this hasn't been solved. Every GPU ships with some form of support bracket today, and some cases allow mounting the GPU vertically via a riser cable.
@@guycxz Aren't those risers prone to shorts and combustion though? I remember seeing videos about that.
You are doing great work
I've been known to do some soldering for work and it's good to see that our technique are similar
44:55 I used to tin wires before attaching them like that as well until we did a wire retention test at work on a project. We found that the tinned wire was easier to pull out than the bare copper wire and a ferrule was the best retention. We were all surprised by that outcome.
THIS! After Sorin video today saying how reball is complete waste of time lol
This the real clash of the titans!
I bought a kit of high temp crimp connectors from the service counter at a local restaurant supply businesses. They are used in all sorts of restaurant equipment.
Hi. One thing you can try on your heater is to connect the two ceramic protected wires directly to the connector. Direct copper connection is better then with cable shoes you are putting on the end of the wire. If you are able to change the two wires change them to a bigger size wire. That will reduce heat production at the connection point and in the wire itself.
Je me demande pourquoi les gens n'utilise pas une extension PCI-E afin de réduire le risque de distorsion et de casse sur ce genre de carte qui sont de plus en plus lourde?
Really you just need a stand for it
came home from night shift at 7 am and spent 53 min watching this XD
You can't use flux instead of thermal paste due to it's viscosity and some other parameters. It'll be very prone to pump-out, will smell weirdly and if activated will loose some of it's thermal conductivness.
Great video, as usual ;)
I confess this level of expertise is beyond my interests but it was still fun to watch - timestamps for the key sections would be appreciated!
Anyway, it made me feel happy I am using the supporting stand of my 3080 Suprim X since day one.
So the way that we fix bent cards like that is we usually heat it up in an oven and get two peices of balsa wood and clamp them together we let it heat up and then every few minutes after it heats up we tighten it to straighten it out.
Most of the non flat/surface mount components will have to be taken off first
Watched the lot even though i don’t fix cards. Thanks for sharing preventative maintenance
Thanks for sharing your wisdom! Liked and subscribed!
eyes his XFX Speedster SWFT319 RX 6800....."hang in there, buddy..." 😅
I have ran several sapphire cards and all the amd ones have been solid the 6950xt and 7900xt are the latest the drivers have always given me more trouble than the board itself
I have the same xfx 6800 lol not scared of failure tho. As much as I like these videos I take his talk about AMD with a grain of salt.
Steel crimp ferrules are what you want, but if you can't find those, just snip the tab off the crimp you used and make sure the screw in the terminal clamps down onto the sire through the remaining crimp collar. If you just clamp the tab end, the problem is that as you use that heater, the heat from the large current flow softens the crimp and it starts to relax and the connection progressively gets worse and worse.. If you clamp down on the wire, the ferrule (or the remaining crimp collar) basically protects the wire from damage by the screw, but allows you to really crank down and get a tight connection..
Excellent video💯 That subliminal "subscribe now" 2:22 is actually silly.
never expected to learn about sewage oil in a gpu repair video lol
Lol
If that scares you, dont read about street food in india....
don't google a video of them harvesting oil from sewage. It's actually disgusting
Wait till you learn about USA human feces contaminated salad.
If you ever eat somewhere fish and chips where they dont frequently change oil, you already experienced it... Also people would be amazed at how low hygene is at the most of the restoraunts /fasttfoods.. They would never come close to eat outside again...
I've heard you my guy, your on our team. Team FE. ❤
The absolute love that these boards receive is astounding. Amazing!
Awesome video
Great video really enjoyed this longer format
Yes, please review that battery spot welder. I've had my eye on it for months.
Absolutely great work 👏
Yes to a review/ guide about the spot welder.
hi if you make yourself some killed spirit flux ,or cut up a AA battery casing the soft type ,cut into tiny peices then add battery acid just enough till its covered now put it outside and leave it till the reaction completely stops now pour the liquid into a tiny glass jar with a lid ,just a cotton bud dipped in ,then rub on the metal to be soldered,it will etch stainless,alluminium,brass even spring steel ,will make the solder sick like glue
will need a decent wattage iron though 60 and up
What you can do as board manufacturer is to have a stripe of plane on the outline and have the EMS place solder on it. Bottom AND top. 4mm width with 1mm solder on top. You will have a much harder time to bend the PCB. If you have that on both sides you can stand on a smaller PCB (if you are not like 400 pounds).
If you have a big board, then a bar i the middle will also help further.
If you are an engineer and fear for influence: OPAMP and fix it to the middle between high and low of the signals nearby. Pssht: you can also build a tunnel for your RAM signals and the tunnel itself is an active guard. Often this will work better than having GND / VCC, because capacity is U² dependand, while this also cancels all noise from the outside :)
You MIGHT need to increase layers, but think about it: the price rise will be there - but it should amortize over like 1 in 100-200 PCBs dying of this. Also reworks cost money. You also safe manufacturing cost (stiffer = easier handling) and you have PLANES to solder something on - like a heatpipe to draw heat of the board or to solder your vapor chamber on which will even further stiffen the board AND you have fixed points for that and can increase manufacturing precision, thus lowering cost once again.
hi John.your burnt heater connections need NI-CHROME LUGS for hot connections. Nickel-Chrome Lugs are more heat resistant than the rest. thx for great content...
That was a tough one; great job!
Great Work 😃👍
I particularly love those kind of days where you spend half the day fixing your tools before even starting to get anything done.
28:12 It’s an almost surgical operation; which brings me back to my first question, why don't graphics card manufacturers put a slot for GPU and Vram modules like in PC motherboards?
Latency if I remember correctly
@@markwazowskinreal I think they can get around this with the technology they have today, and the graphics cards will be easier to repair and upgrade, imagine if you can add more VRAM and change GPUs, you buy a 4060 then you move to a 4090; I think manufacturers just don't want people to be able to upgrade and repair their graphics cards.
@@agentkruger you answered yourself, its cuz munyyy
@@agentkruger no, you can't, ddr5 on laptops its unstable after 6000, so they are soldering it now, even on pc high ddr5 freq its no stable with 4 dimms. and you are forgetting that "GDDR6 and HBM still outperform DDR5 by 10x" , you can read about signal integrity and u will see that is impossible
@@malkyprijemny7077 because there is my understanding of things and the truth which are two distinct things but which can come together if there are other different opinions
"How much bend can make your graphics card beyond repair ?"
"I don't really know, let's test it."
* start to bend it *
the ends of the heater are bare resistive wire, it tends to het hard after overheating and is unable to solter,all resistive wires are nickle based so spot welding in nickle foil should work, the thing is it is still resistive so the key is to make as big of a conection patch as possible
you could also try removing the beeds and braiding copper wire alongs side the one th t stick out then sticking the beeds back on the brade, but that would increase the load on the heater itself
Really enjoy your work. It's a shame that it takes so much time, because it's not the sort of assembly line work that is going to get you a "better than factory" $1m house, but for the people you're helping who have spent a fortune on these cards who have no one else to turn to - you're basically like their saviour.
Not sure if it'd help but I've had good luck with backup battery power stations in a condo that can't handle a lot of load where I need it. Unlike a lot of brands the two Dabbsson units I got shares the load across both inverters, effectively doubling the max output power, along with the capacity. Some brands like this also support 240V with two units using an additional parallel connector.
Just one of mine by itself handles up to 2200W continuous (close to where many 15A breakers start tripping), and cost me ~$500 during a sale. A lot of power with a lot of capacity obviously isn't cheap but it might be worth looking into during the holidays, unless you want to build your own.
The portability of these things is really convenient... Basically a little generator for power tools you can throw in the trunk of a car.
I love your work!
Copper connectors will work pretty well for your heater thats what we use in our welders and they can get pretty hot at times, soldier will just wick up the wire as it heats up but im sure you know this
I always find interesting how the homes in the US are wired. I live in a tiny house in the UK but have 240v and 32A for my sockets in the living room, while homes in the US are much bigger and have 16A for general use sockets with 120v. So 4x less for a bigger space!
We have 240 coming into our houses. If you want a 240 outlet it's literally nothing to just run a new circuit and install one.
45:12 If you want the cable really crimped, screw the screw in, out , in, out and in. That should distribute the forces evenly. Electricians do it this way.
13:47 You should be using pipe cable shoes that you can solder on the cable.
45:00 Never use tin at the end of a cable. Tin is soft and after some time it will make the cable loose.
That is why you don't tin the cable ends in a lamp or other home device. You always use end sleeves ...
I don't understand everything but I enjoy the cheesy 80s music during reball. That's all I come here for 👍
you should start livestreaming your repairs on twitch, great work
Flux will probably pumpout within one duty cycle as thermal paste. I have switched to a Thermal Grizzly Kryosheet on my RTX 4070 Ti, stock temps again and they won't degrade.
Interesting information ℹ️😮
A descent crimper will make your life easier, forget the welding it, consider brazing instead... its often overlooked but its good for getting into little tiny crevices, have even seen cracked cylinder blocks repaired that way...
Thank you for your recommendations
As flat of a surface as possible, such as the earth. 😂😂😂😂😂😂 Thanks for all the jokes in the videos, education and humor go hand in hand.
i want a compilation of every time he said balls.
could allways braid on some high temp wire to then slide a couple high temp sleeve over that
Flux is used to keep the solder from oxidizing. While it does conduct, it's much worse than metal. Also flux fumes are ... not so healthy, so that's why you have that fan next to you to blow them off.
If it stays solid, it will just keep drying out. So anyway: it may work short term but that's it
nice teardowns.
This GPU was prob shipped in a PC while connected to the PCI slot. Good job fixing it with that amount of bend damage.
I bet the vid doesn't do justice to how small those pads really are. Awesome work.
Tony, if you were to buy a GPU right now and had to choose a brand, based exclusively on build quality from a repairability standpoint, regardless of it being NVIDIA or AMD, which would you rather buy?
Very entertaining video... even tho I don't know anything about GPUs haha
Loved this vid!
Do you have any tips using lead free solder? Everytime I've used it the stuff refused to flow to the contact, in this case rheostat wires. Lead is the way to go.
13:00 Use ferrule crimper, make some loop using the wire and put te connector.
I wouldn’t use that style crimper. Use one that has a center style crush not outer edge. It will improve when using any sort of butt connector and the continuity in the long-term. After 25 years in automotive and dealing with electrical and building some harnesses from time to time, it is a better solution.
How much does a repair like that set the owner of the card back? Ballpark.
It’s funny cause I’m by far the smartest person in my family and this is in agreement and I talk to my self whenever I’m doing something with brain power and understanding. Einstein did too the smartest people often do. Oh and I’m also responding to you out loud when you talk about what to do next and I often say exactly what you do next 😂 it’s funny.
@northwestrepair Pourquoi les GPU n'ont pas de socket comme pour les CPU's ?
Heat transfer.
@@northwestrepair Thank you for your response, I like what you do, I hope one day I can repair motherboards like you, that's why I follow you because you have a lot of experience and you know explain to people👨🏫😃 Merci beaucoup
MSI 3080 Ventus - I have already repaired several of these GPUs, and I can say one thing, that after unsoldering the GPU, you need to carefully check whether any of the pads from "CB46 to CB61" are not loose, if so, I tear out and insert a new one.
Just a question in general, why are there no replacement cores available to purchase? You can even buy replacement memory through Mouser or Digi-key. Why aren't replacement cores made available?
It exists on AliExpress but I think it's second-hand
@@agentkruger Thank you!
Because they'd have to be taken off existing boards, which only makes sense if the board is destroyed and somehow the core survived whatever destroyed, which is needless to say, extremely rare. The cores are made in house by GPU manufactures and not by 3rd party manufactures like everything else. Many cores online can cost A LOT, and can often be scams. Tony talks about this and has pictures comparing real and fakes cores on his discord server.
You should start selling tools and particularly flux and solder balls etc. Your recommendations are gold
36:55 the ball on the bottom right didn't melt i think🤨
very informative!
I just fixed a HP 4070ti and it had the WORST quality solder balls ive ever seen!
The card had zero physical damage, the memory rails were measuring 180ohms on Micron memory and when i removed the solder all of it was completely grey, every single solder ball was oxidized and it bubbled and fizzed when heated. Also when cleaning the solder off the board it left literal dirt all over the board. I've never seen anything like it before. Lead free solder is the WORST.
30:46 you missed 3 pads😅
@northwestrepair Do not tin the end of a wire going into a screw connection! Tinned wire will deform over time, loosening the connection and produce a big fire hazard, especially if high amperage is involved. Also tin will always go much deeper into the wire, than just the connection point, especially if it has a lot of strands. Wire with tin is less flexible, so there will be a breaking point where the tin ends due to most future bends starting and ending right there.
Instead you should use crimped end sleeves. Can be bought in China for cheap, along with a definitely good enough criming tool. (For the resulting connection it doesn't matter if the crimped wire has 4 or 6 sides in the end.)
ROHS came into effect around 2006, with lead free packaging being mandated since 09, modern lead free solder chemistry is mostly no worse to work then 60/40 and actually has better mechanical properties then 60/40 in many cases. Clearly the reality is that its just hard to keep such massive FC-BGA packages on a whippy piece of fiberglass, especially when the cards arent mechanically supported properly and then beat to hell in shipping lol.
got my answer i suppose. not direct but,
me having a big ass 4070ti 3 fan *gigabyte gaming OC V1*
and wondering about how it comes in for repair. just keep it
supported. which it is. (even tho its not the way the directions
showed) as it wouldn work that way. its still mounted to the GPU
and being supported off the power supply cover.
side note- extension cables "CHEAP" 50 dollar or under range are BAD
for newer GPU's had a 3.3v rail issue on my 5800x, 4070ti, 2x2tb nvme drives.
which pulled down the 3.3v rail to 3.1v sure enough removing the pretty cables
made my issue vanish. (yes, cables were the issue tested a few times with/without)
always same results on a multimeter. now im at 3.34v constant on this 1000w seasonic power
supply... could be a vid idea even tho its out of your element somewhat to test voltage
drop on extension cables...
i think the problem with that ceramic connector could be fixed if you tried before to clean it up using some sort of slightly mild acid to and then alcohol and then heat it with the hotair to like pre-heat it then try to solder it (soldering it)
...after a bit of thinking its much easier to just spot weld it in place👀
14:40
If you want AMD GPU, then buy 7900 XTX from Sapphire. Except Sapphire 7900 XTX, every other AMD card is garbage from 6000 to 7000 series.
If you want Nvidia, then buy 4090 from MSI. MSI 4090 Gaming Trio or Supreme are the best versions of 4090 out there.
What do you think about Powercolor's radeon 6000 red devil series cards ? I was told the ram on them is good, which is a reason to pick one rather than the other brands/models.
They are good... Sapphire what i would always recommend as one of first options th-cam.com/video/G2Ro4Ca_M4M/w-d-xo.html
Liked the testing box DLC
when building and repairing racing drones i hated lead free solder on tip if you have to solder it lose at home put some lead solder on there then it will melt more easy i have found
43:00 if elements run on AC you could have added a diode in series and cut power in half while still retaining all three elements.