Hey Del, much respect on the "ease" you demonstrate when performing delicate tasks. Master mechanic! You were "spot on" when you mentioned the dealer response. Had the same problem several years ago on a bike. The dealer recommended that I "upgrade" the entire unit to a pengel unit, which I did. Better unit but, expensive. Never thought to rebuild myself, this is why I love your channel! Love the humor as well! Love the new "Busa" sticker!!!!!!! Too funny!!!!
Hi Del, Yes, I've been pleased to find that I can do a fair amount of basic maintenance on my Harley, thanks to the help of you and other TH-camrs showing the way. I like riding more than wrenching and I don't aspire to become a qualified mechanic, but it's very interesting to see how bikes and parts function and how service jobs are done! I really appreciate the effort that you and Penny put it, thanks mate!
Delboy's Garage was the firs I saw with reparing the Bandit, so thanks a lot for your help and your cool work. I'm not so good, 'cause I'm back motorriding for 20 years ago. But you help me a lot. Best wishes and take care, Roman
Roman S. Hi Roman, its good to hear from you my friend, and im glad the videos can help you out... welcome back to biking and enjoy the roads buddy... all the best.. Del.
Hi mate... to clean out yer tank...chuck in a fist full of ball bearings or lead shot...add a pint of water..seal up all the hols with duct tape (taking the fuel tap out first)..then shake the shit out of it for ten minutes til yer arms fall off ..then open up the tank holes, drain and wash it all out...keep rinsing till its totally clean...then let it dry open in a warm place so all the moisture dries out...then use "Petseal" rubber solution to line the tank afterwards..job done..good luck, Del
so glad i came across your video.... not often you get someone giving the exact step by step instruction... this has helped me immensely... thank you.. you will be my first stop if i get anymore problems with my bandit 1200.
Just so you know. 7 years on (at a guess from the comments) and this video will still be helping people. I am about to start work on my bandit N600 and this is going to help me no end. Thanks dude. Great video, I will be watching this back a few times. :) Take care.
Alright delboy! This is class , just got an unused bandit '00, 600 for free off a mate's. Cousin, I've been off bikes for about 15 years so am bursting to go, she's been left in the weather for 10 years so lots to do , and you teach just how I like to learn , I'm going to give it a blast myself , never been to college but I'm doing a degree on you tube. Professor Del, cheers! Mick in cork IRL.
Ayup Mick, good to hear from you fellah and what a fun project that sounds to be! Nothing like doing it yourself and a free bike, what's not to like?! Good luck with it me ol' mate, get stuck in and have a good time... all the best D&P
Nice one glad to see you both having some fun "on set". My bike has a similar vacuum valve but it's mounted on the carb fuel rail and the petcock on the tank is just a 3 position valve. Good seeing how things are done on newer & different bikes. Fuel gauge, what a luxury on a bike!
del just cleaned out my carbs for the first time on my bandit 600 yesterday and i couldne believe the grit in the float bowls took me all day to do the job just took my time with my haynes, was getting a little rough running at low revs thought maybe pilots blocked and some where , used carb cleaner away from any rubber bits and compressed air. ballanced carbs when fitted but cant get out to test run as rain rain rain today joys of biking cheers del
Hey Penny and Del, came across this one from the depths of time! Although you now have a bigger garage, better video and audio equipment and a more refined approach, the raw appeal of your videos is here in plain sight. Really great job of instructing on the task. Thanks again! Take care, be well and ride safe!
Thanks so much for your kind words buddy.. i never get time to watch the old videos, shame as it reminds me of simpler times and a more friendly youtube..!
Del thanks for putting these videos up it has inspired me to go back to night school to do a motorcycle mantainance course loved the bandit rebuild keep it up
Fantastic video...thanks for putting this up. Just rebuilt my fuel tap with the kit today and followed this video step by step. Turned out to be quite an easy job in the end and gave me a chance to inspect my air filter and fuel filter too.
Hey! I have a Suzuki GSF1200 Bandit. Almost 57k Miles, and I am experiencing this fuel smell, and have observed the fuel leaking from the petcock. I will be rebuilding my fuel petcock this weekend - I appreciate you making this video!
Hye buddy... i have to tell you, im not evne sure if this fix was the route of the prblem.. i stopped the fuel smell for a week..but then it came back... and in the end, i traced it to a tiny tiny micro pin hole in the tank itself... ill explain! The Bandit tanks site the fuel tap down in a cavity at the bottom left of the tank....this cavity is the veyr lowest point of all....and any water that gets in from rain around the filler cap, or what ever other means, will just sink to the bottom and sit in this cavity for years....and in the end.. it will breach the rubber coating and rust its way through.... this is what happend to my tank... so before you rip your tap apart, have a very close look all around the tap hole at that bottom section it sits in and make sure there are no pin holes of rust spots.... in the end i picked up a new (second hand) tank from eBay for £30, slapped my old tap in and it fixed it.. Hope that helps buddy.. good luck with it... Del.
Hey delboy love your Vids, I don't know what to do with my bandit though, it has been plagued by this fuel leaking problem. After I failed to fix it myself, I took it to a proper bike shop, who are known for their work on bandits. $600, They rebuilt the carbs, rejetted the carbs, and synced them. I took the bike on a trip, worked flawlessly but yesterday only a week after it started leaking fuel into the crankcase And floor. Idk what to do now.
Oh! Forgot to update you. The leak was from the oring that connects the assembly to the tank - the oring had somehow fused to the paint, and the paint had chipped away from the tank causing my leak. I cleaned off the paint from the area where the oring should contact, and with a new oring, my leak was solved.
Hi Matt, thank you for your kind comments, have a look through there's a few bandit vids in the back catalogue that may help you ... with the tank, it fits on to a 'shoe' at the front which has a rubber cover, this gives the tank some isolation from vibration, so yes, there will be a very small amount of play at the front as the bracket moves around in it's rubber mount...good luck with your new bike, always feel free to ask if you need any advice, happy to help - Cheers, mate, Del
Hi Chris, at least you attempted it mate, and didn't just hand it to the dealer...the problem with the Discovery loads is that they are restricted to 7mins on the video uploads, I guess it's a continuity thing, so this would fall way outside that...I tried suggesting doing them in 2-3 parts, but they can't do that either ... they've got about 24 of my vids in stock to edit down and use of which they seem to have loaded only a dozen so far ..thanks for watching, buddy, cheers, Del
Hey Del , just a quick one, thanks for the vids its given me confidence to have a go myself , serviced me bandit no problems thanks mate keep up the good work . Andy
Hi mate, I've got a pengel tap in my toolbox, was great for passing more fuel when I was running a 1260 kit on my old EFE, but after 2yrs leaked like a sieve, so I re-kitted it using old inner tube rubber, then chucked it in my toolbox - thanks for watching, mate, Del
Hi Peter, thanks for that perfect explanation, I couldn't put it better myself ...it's exciting to see such hunger and enthusiasm from the new blood and gladdens my old heart that bikers will survive into the future LOL! Thanks for your input, mate, wise words, well said - Del
Good tip on dry seals there....my tap wasnt dry so it was just corrosion and wear....but laid up bikes have lots of odd problems.. and thats one very good remedy for all o-ring seals, petrol and oil...!
Thanks John, settling in nicely now, still got stuff everywhere, and the garage is still full of toot....but we're getting there... you're right on the bike care....keeping your bike tip top brings you closer to it and also helps you know how its doing which gives you time up front to make plans for those never ending expenses like consumables and servicing..not only that, it ads a wider path of enjoyment to owning your bike...ride safe chap.. cheers Del.
still ALOT of gd info on this and really helpfull in 2019 - you sir are doing a really great job with this build help vids - I hope to see more of them, even thou I love the busa build aswell thumbs up!
Hi Joe,provided it is petrol & not condensation,then it sounds like a stuck float..what is your 'K3' - GSXR presumably & is it carbs or injection? If carbs, you could have a stuck float causing the feed to gravity drain into the cylinder through an open inlet valve, but that would more usually run down the side of the cylinders into the sump (so your oil will smell of petrol)..but fluid coming out of exhausts is more usually just condensation water,caused by cold steel vs. hot gases etc. ..Del
Fair play very well done, informative, camera work tidy, just got bandit 600n with carb over feul issues, am going to carry out rebuild of feul tap after watching your video. Great job.
Sonic bathed my carbs today, lots of green scaly crud removed, brass fine brush used to lightly defer heavy deposits, refitted all after assessing jets, diaphragms, damper condition, noticed carb heater plugs to stop icing all disconnected and tops of plugs removed/broken been advised from club that OK to leave deleted, (your thoughts greatly appreciated, it will be my daily driver, but don't really have very harsh Winters, probably won't use if if we do). Are there positional /jet numbers/ emulsion tube and main jet configurations that need adhering to as it looks like these carbs have been apart before, (witness marks on jet slots) probably wise to get a manual also. Thanks for your channel, was watching your wheel bearing video this evening, very well done again. 👍🏻Looking forward to learning more from you. Andy Rayner. 👍🏻🏴
Hi Byron, I hardly think that would be the case! The whole amazing thing with these videos since we started has been people who didn't think they could do anything discovering that they actually can! ... most of us have un-tapped skills we just don't know we have! Thanks for your every present support, mate, Del
Very helpful. I had a leaky petcock on my '77 GS550 after rebuilding it and this video helped me see that I had reassembled the vacuum side incorrectly. Tomorrow will tell whether I've corrected it or not. Thanks, mate!
Hi Del ok I have made some new discoveries with my suzuki bandit so like we spoke about before i filled up it and took it for another spin it still rode poorly at lower revs but as they hit about 5k revs it took off like it used to! However after about 20 mins it started playing up again even at high revs, so I took another look at it anyways I found out that what I believe is a fault in cylinder 1, (the one on far left of the engine block when ur sat in the seat i think) I checked that the HT lead sent a spark to the plug by leaving a little bit of distance which it did between them and then I checked the plug itself again on the side of the engine block and it gave a healthy spark, now heres the thing! when I totally disconnected that spark plug from the HT lead it made absolutely NO DIFFERENCE to the bike running whatsoever, the revs stayed the same and it still sounded awful but just kept on ticking over as it was before I disconnected it,so now I reconnected that one and did the same with spark plug 4 or cylinder 4 so to speak and as I disconnected this one and the bike spluttered and died,so I now know the problem is with cylinder 1 so I went back to cylinder one and checked the spark plug again it seemed like it was covered in fuel and oil, twice I run the bike with it in there and twice I removed it and checked it both times it had oil mixed with fuel as I dabbed it on tissue to be sure, I believe it was so wet that it could not ignite now the final thing I did was that I actually fired the bike up with that cylinder open and held my hand above it within moments it got damp and i thought I could see a little white smoke coming out of it too, but when I tried the same thing with cylinder 4 my hand stayed completely dry I remember giving it a oil top up recently as it was a lil bit under the full mark but im wondering if I have put a bit too much oil in and and it could have increased the pressure somehow, maybe forcing oil past the seals into the combustion chamber? any ideas, will it need new seals and a new gasket maybe? would it be advisable for me to buy a compression kit to test and finally if they have gone is there anything I can just put into the engine to seal it up like a liquid or will I have to do a proper job with more seals and a new head gasket if that's the case. I also took a photo down in cylinder one and could see some oil around near where the spark plug sits in the lower part of the cylinder. One more thing when I first tried to start it this morning it went BANG real loud made me jump!!! Sorry for the massive message but im just trying to give you as much information as I can. Thanks again!
+Jimbo Deano Hi Jimbo, please don't apologies for the message... information is all useful..... what you are describing, sounds to me, like Pot 1 just isn't working. It's not firing, even though a spark is going in there.... and this can be because the valves are not sealing and allowing compression to occur , so the oily residue is simply un-burnt fuel mixture that isn't being ignited! The fist thing to check is the compression... and best to do all four Pots... it's not so important how much compression you are getting, just whether it's the same in each cylinder! So fast forwarding, if you find Pot1 has extremely low compression, it could be an open valve due to a closed up shim gap. When was the last time had a valve clearance check?? Check them, and set them correctly... then do the copmression test AGAIN. If this cures it, then that's what it was! If it doesn't, then it could be more serious, such as, perhaps, piston rings...to check for this... stick a couple of teaspoons of oil down the open plug hole of Pot1 and repeat the compression test again... if that cures it, then you have either a broken ring, or a damaged piston. Check those things, and let me know buddy... it has to be something like that !
Mines started recently750. I couldnt really see there which tap feed was for fuel pipe and which was overflow andbwhich part of rhe tp they atrached to
Hi mate, always happy to help others learn, not sure exactly what you mean when you say general mechanical knowledge, mostly that is something you build over years by using common sense mixed with some straight forward technical learning from manuals or videos and just getting involved and practicing ...I'm afraid there's no short circuit to knowledge you have to learn it stick by stick, do lots of small jobs, learning as you go & some day it will build up into a bank of knowledge - cheers, Del
Hi Ted, I left the rain water pipe off because it wasn't on there in the first place, the little there is just drains down behind the air box as it's a rat bike I'm not bothered, but thanks for you amazing observation - you legend! Thanks Del
Took the tank off my Zx6r the other day to get to some wiring. bent the fuel tap in the process, started pissing petrol everywhere, then put a spanner on my battery followed by exciting sparks. luckily no fire... refurbished another 2nd hand tap the other day, looks like I got it right but thanks for the tip with the seal onto the tank!
:o) after many many years of doing all my own repairs servicing and rebuilding on my bikes i do know a bit. this one almost beat me..lol.. in all that time the only thing ive done with a petcock is turn it on .. so your vid was a god-send..cheers mate ..oh by the way while i was waiting for the repair kit i made a gasket out of cardboard and fitted it over what was left of the diaphragm it held it in place and got me to work all week hehe ..its surprising what you can do in an emergency!!
another top vid young man.... the scream face was the highlight though lol... seriously its good to see whas involved if i ever need to do the tap on my bandit..
Nice demo. I think the brown grunge is rust, accumulated near the bottom of the tank because water impurities will layer out at the bottom and tend to cause rust there. There is a lot of mysticism surrounding the topic of fuel stabilizer and alcohol. It makes sense that the alcohol present in fuel stabilizer allows more water to dissolve in the upper fuel layer, reducing the tendency for water to layer out and cause localized rust at the bottom. Alcohol gets blamed for a lot of problems but reality is more complex.
ok del redid all the readings they all range between 110 to 120 so im chuffed about that I will do all you told me by the months end and when ya ready tell me how I can buy one of those caps. Thanks again!!!
+Jimbo Deano Good news mate, great to hear you are getting it sorted! Tha caps are available now... if UK they are £19 inc. postage... and send the payment to this Paypal address: moonfleet10@yahoo.co.uk ..... and include your name/address/YT name in the 'message' section and we'll do the rest ! Good to hear you got the bike sorted, it's rewarding ain't it!
This is very helpful with what we’re trying to do. The lock will not open on it. It’s been sitting for a hot minute and the gas is more than likely bad af. (Yes, we’ve tried everything to open it) without destroying the lock, we’re thinking that if we take the gas tank off, leave it upside down for a prolonged period of time, the lock will get lubricated enough to open. I got meager knowledge on the subject. Just got the bike and it needs to be looked at but we know it needs work.
Hello Delboy, thanks for all the great help you provide. I have 3 questions regarding the Bandit petcock, can you swap it for a non- vacuum petcock? And if so from what model? Then what do you do with the vacuum line to the carb and to or from the 2ndary air valve assy. Thanks again Ron
+Ron Howard Hi Ron, you can buy a Petcock from the American company "Pingel" so just google search for "Pingel fuel tap Suzuki Bandit" and im sure you'll find a product, and it will come with a model specific adaptor plate to bolt it staigh on....with the vacuum hose, either take it off all together and silicone a rubber brake bleed valve cap over the end, of cut the hose itself to about 3" long, and silicone a bolt in the end to seal it... all the drag race supply companies sell Pingel taps... easy swap.. hooe that helps buddy, good luck with it. Del.
Hi, I,ve watched this video a few times and have a tap repair kit on order.. I noticed that when I removed the tap "face plate" that there is a springy metal washer type of thing that was missing from your video (and tap), Maybe this was the tinkling sound I heard at between 11:13 and 11:15 as something fell off?? Anyway, thanks for the great vid and the screaming rubber face! EDIT -- Someone else already mentioned this so no worries
Hi Joe....ok, it makes sense that you should first check for stuck floats, little tap on each bowl can often cure it, you have a vacuum tap, so check you haven't left it on prime 'PRI', & once you've cured the leak, no need to change the oil as long as the level is correct, if loads of petrol in it, then it will be overfilled.. also check the air box drain plug,make sure it's not gummed up & that no petrol has drained back into the drain box..good luck with that, hope it helps, mate, Del
Hi del I have just rebuilt my bandits fuel tap following your video which was really good. question is, my bandit has suffered from progressively worse performance over the last 12 to 18 months (not riding it much) it tended to be after giving it some stick, you would back off and a few seconds later it would lose power, splutter like it's missing and eventually die completely. also it is a Nightmare to start, taking ages to eventually go, once it's going it only firing on 2,3, and 4 with No.1 header stone cold until I fiddled with the "mixture screw" little one just before the connection for the carb rubbers, then it heated up quick and idled pretty nicely. should say now it's had the carbs cleaned professionally TWICE!! new coils,plugs, new battery twice and has a good spark and all vacuum hoses and functioning correctly each time the carbs were cleaned it ran ok but developed the same problem pretty quickly, I got it going the other day and ran it, it revved freely and I rode about 500yds when it started to have a little splutter, I leaned over and turned the tap to prime and it went off like a bullet! and performed well under load all the way home. like I said I have just rebuilt my tap and noticed the 'smiley face' is scored between the eyes, enough to allow fuel to pass between the two when not turned onto that setting (reserve?) would that cause a problem in your opinion with the vacuum operation as like I said, on prime it seemed ok. any input greatly appreciated. and keep up the great. video. lee
+Lee D HI mate, reading through your message, it sounds like the problem could be related to fuel starvation... specially as you say it seems to work and operate on 'prime'. Just to explain the tap... it's vacuum operated on the first two settings 'ON' and 'RES' and the third setting 'PRI' is manually operated by a small cam pushing the tap open internally. So the fact it works on manual operation means that, possibly, you are not getting enough vacuum to open the tap, so is the vac hose to the tap properly connected, kinked, pinched, or perished?? If that's all healthy, then with your engine running, take the vac hose off the tap end, and stick your thumb over the end, it should suck quite firmly on the skin of your thumb...... if not, replace it, or check for blockages. If you are getting a firm vac, but it's not opening the tap, then, perhaps, the spring is too tight, wrongly fitted, or corroded.... either way, it seems the bike is running fine once it has a healthy fuel supply .... Those vacuum taps can be re-built, but tbh mate, they are a bit crap and if you wanna upgrade for a guaranteed sod-off healthy fuel supply, then buy a Pingel tap replacement kit and throw the factory shit in the bin! They have one or two outlets and come with, or without, reserve.... shop around in the drag race market, someone like Debben Performance in Ringwood will supply them... you can get an adaptor block to fit the tap to your Bandit, take 10mins to fit and will supply so much fuel, you won't believe it ! See how you get on with that mate !
Hi first of all love the videos this one had me chuckling I'm a very novice rider and haven't the faintest clue where to start about DIY but I'm going to have a crack at it. My problem is when I turn the tap on off or onto reserve nothing happens as in the bike should cut out when the fuel is off but it doesn't. Could it be a simple thing as a new seal kit many thanks in advance Paul
Hi Paul....if you have an old fashioned 'non vacuum' tap that actually has the 'OFF' option... then the engine will still run on its carburetor supply for about a minute or more before it finally runs dry and stops......but these days most fuel taps are "On, Reserve, and Prime".....so there is no 'Off' position....the tap cuts off with an internal spring when you cut the engine so its safe..!
Hi mate, I initially wondered that, but on reflection probably they don't care -there are plenty of customers out there who don't want to get their hands dirty and I only ever cover basic maintenance and bike care, I never encroach into the territory of the technician as I truly believe that that level of know how is not something you can portray in a video and I would never want to lead viewers down a road they can't get out of, so I keep it simple - cheers Del
perfect, really needed a decent tutorial, rebuilding my yamaha tzr 125, cheers del just a quick question, what would you say is the best way if any of getting rid of tank rust, this yamaha's tank im building back up i full of it, a m8 said to run some kind of filter on the fuel tap, is this a good idea? cheers
Thank you for your video I have a Piaggio Zip 50 2T from 2015 when I drive and give a full acceleration the speed is cutting down what you thing is tap problem i been cleaning the carburettor and still the same many thks
Quick observation on the fuel tap rebuild Del..When you refitted the front plate that holds the turning part of the tap in place, you forgot to refit the spring steel washer...It keeps the tap part pressed in. You left it on your work bench ;)
+Steve Froud Hi Steve....cant remember now, it was three years ago...it worked just fine once i connected it and still does to my knowledge... i probably noticed it and fitted it later.. cant remember buddy.. !
the bike is a bandit gsf 600 its defo petrol I opened the garage as I could smell it, there was a big damp patch on the floor. There was no sign of wet areas above the exhaust or any thing coming from the overflow pipes. If it is a sticky float would you change the engine oil after checking the float. Thanks
Hey Del I have had another go at my suzuki bandit today (i dunno why I say that u must know who it is by now :)) so i removed 500 mil of oil just as a precaution and now it sits just under the F mark then I took it out for a ride it rides great again from 5 k revs upwards and overall it feels better even on the lower revs but I still know theres a problem however, I am confident that top 1 is sparking again on and off then I bought a compression kit and I have tested the pots individually so here's the readings while the engine was warm pot 1 115 psi pot 2 115 pot 3 105 pot 4 117 so they are all pretty close I looked in the haynes manual for compression standard psi is 142 to 213 minimum psi allowed is 114 the max difference between psi permitted is 28 it states in the manual also that if 1 cylinder is below 142 its acceptable providing the other 3 are not and that no more than 28 psi difference is between them I didn't get enough time to test them by putting oil in them all ill try to do that tomo, again I checked the spark plugs pot 1 was still saturated as before but the other 3 were bone dry. Shall I still put oil down all pots tomorrow and see if the psi rises or do you think I don't need to do that now and that the engine just needs needs a full overhaul??? Your advice on what I should do next will be greatly appreciated or is there anything else I can check for or have we pinpointed the problem now? Thank again
+Jimbo Deano Hi mate, diagnostics by email lol ! But your detailed explanations make it all possible... you only have 8psi difference at most, and that's more than healthy, as long as the difference is within 15%, then that's perfect... all the BS in manuals doesn't take account of the real world! What you've read there is a healthy engine... if, maybe, a little low across the board...! A cold compression test, rather than a hot engine, would probably net you a higher figure, but it's a waste of time cos you're not trying to test the overall compression, just the balance between each Pot... and they sound fine... So, from here on I would do this mate: 1. Valve Clearance check (cold engine, re-set as necessary) 2. Full Oil Change, inc. filter 3. K&N Air Filter Panel inside the air box 4. 4xnew Spark Plugs 5. Clean out Carburettor Bowls (but no essential) 6. Take it for a good, LONG, high-speed ride (a good hour up the motorway, right up at national speed limit) And by the time you get home, you will have a lovely, smooth running bike! Hope that helps - let me know how you get on , Del!
+Moonfleet41 Ok Del sounds good. on pot 3 I took 2 readings from it 1st time was at like 105 as it was the lowest but second time I did it was at 65 at this point the bike was running lower on battery but i simply took the higher measurement which was the first one and that surprised me since piston 1 was the one that was saturated and had issues. shall I check it once more again tomorrow just to be safe? and ill do all those things as soon as I get a chance :) Thanks again
Good day Del, so after the red cherry exhaust pipes situation, I noticed there wasn't any flipping oil in the bike. Put that in along with new oil filter. Then I decided to check spark plugs. Put in new just for peace of mind. Then I went in to check air filter and found it sitting in a pool of brown fluid. It has a red tint to it. (Transmission?) in doing this I found out that the air filter was removed and there were a couple hoses not connected. One seems to be the crankcase breather and the smaller one looks like it could go to the fuel tank. The previous owner also did the AI removal. Are these tubes not connected because of the AI removal? Plus, in doing all this, I also notice a leak from the hose to the fuel tap too! Geez! I have a 2001 Triumph Bonneville Don't I need a cover for the air filter? Lisa
Hi Lisa, My word that sounds like a mess... glad you got some oil in it.. !! the oil in the airbox could be feedback from the crankcase breather, it's supposed to "re-breath" that oily mist back through the carbs, but it if the bike does a lot of short trips, and doesn't get ragged hard, then the oily mist fails to get dragged into the engine, but instead collects at the bottom of the airbox..which is why the airbox has a drain tube..!! It should be drained out during servicing.. Not sure about your unconnected tubes, there should be one in the airbox that comes from the ending crankcase, thats right.. You also said.. """in doing this I found out that the air filter was removed""" So are you saying that there is no air filter in it?.. sorry wasnt clear.? and any fuel hose that leaking must be replaced obviously... Hope that helps a bit.. Let me know how you get on..?
Moonfleet41 Thank you for a speedy reply. When I pulled the tank off, there was not a tube coming from it nor is it plugged into anything. I wish I could send you a picture.
Ha ha, 'Result'...well done buddy, and from that little list of checks and fixes you know yer stuff too......good going buddy, glad it worked for you...
Hi del sorry this reply is on a different video . I removed the hose that was not connected to anything out and it says w=fuel hose sae j30 r6 suitable for unleaded 5/16" the two hoses iv got comming out of my fuel tap are connected straight to the carbs but this was just there not connected to anything im wondering if the mechanic who screwed my bike up put it there for some reason when I had it back my airbox was hanging off this pipe just there and numerous other things many thanx mark
Hi Mark, it could be a breather hose to your air box, there's one that goes from the top of head to the top of the air box and there should be a drain hose from the bottom of your drain hose... provided you have the fuel supply hose and the vacuum hose connected to your tap, then that's correct... what does this extra hose connect to, I'm a bit lost?
Hi del, when you balance carbs mate were do you connect the vacuum pipes from the guages to on the bike?? i have zx9r 2000 model, some people on net saying i might have to buy the take off points separte??? would a carb balance set not come with all needed fittings, cheers john
+john walker Hi John, so sorry mate, but ive not had cause to do a ZX9R, but all balance guages fit onto the vent tubes on the inlet rubbers, on the Kawasaki motors they are below the carbs, so go in from behind them, and just fit the balance guage set as usual... have a look at a few YT videos and you'll see where tye hoses fit in..! sorry not to be more help buddy. good luck with it.. Del.
Hi mate, look up the videos in the back catalogue of Rat Bike Scrim - it is basically Army scrim net spray glued on in two layers then drowned in blackboard paint with a brush - makes it rock hard like Kevlar LOL!
Hi Del, wondering if you could help a fellow Bandit rider? I pulled my tank for general maintenance, noticed leak from petcock main line, so... watched your rebuild episode, which by the way are the best on u-tube, then did my own rebuild. Very simple no problems, but it still leaks out the main fuel line when level. What gives? Cleaned the fuel cap and sprayed vent holes with gumout, but it will still leak even if I open cap. Hope you can help. It's a 2004 1200S, with the original vacuum carbs. Thanks Ron
Hi Ron... thanks for your question buddy, i know how irritating a persistent problem can be. Ok, you rebuilt the tap and once you plumb it all back up its still leaking.. So time for an 'elimination process'. First, with the bike switched off, take the rubber hoses both off, and see if the tap leaks then....this will eliminate it being the tap,...once thats established, and its not the hardware, take the rubber fuel deliver hose off the carb end, hold it in your hand and pinch one end sealed while blowing down the other....that will check if the hose is split (in fact for a few pounds why not reaplce the fuel hose so you're sure)... and if its not the tap, and not the hose, then it can only be a leak from the tank just like mine did from a really tiny rust hole caused by water sitting at the bottom of the tank for years... Give those things a go and let me know buddy... hope that helps.. good luck. Del.
Moonfleet41 Thanks Del... for a quick reply and some sound advise. The tank is not even on the bike at this point. I had pulled it off for other mods to the bike, tilted it up on it's side while working, went to put it back on when the leak began. That's why I thought it was the tap so I rebuilt that but it still leaks. You are right, I should break down and buy a new tap, but I'm still curious as to why after rebuilding the tap as to why it leaks? It is diffidently coming from the main hose outlet of the tap, not the tank or the attachment site, everything was and is super clean. Thanks for your help. Ron
had this same problem, bought the kit and installed it but it seems the problem was actually one of the two screws that hold the tap to the tank, gas is weeping through the threads...dont know what to do now. should i use some thread lock?
+illsuspect The gas will melt the threadlock right away, thats no good.. they should seal with the plastic washer that come with the fixing bolts.. at least thats what the factory tap fixing had, and my kit had those, they sealed fine..
Hey! Love your videos! They have helped me out a lot. I'm in California and ride a Honda VTX. Did the stem bearings a couple weeks back - time for the petcock now. Thanks!
Another great vid. I have a question, I'm rebuilding my tap but the small round rubber ring that goes round the inside of the actual tap you turn just won't allow me to turn without using pliers ? (It's at point after you fitted the gasket looking like scream 😀) I've left face play off and tried and with on but it's just so tight and you manage to turn by hand? Would a little Vaseline inside be ok? Round seal and metal contact points!?? Thanks for any help Mark.
+MJS76GARVEY Hi buddy, i guess the whole lot being dry could be causing some drag, so yeah, smear some vasaline on the rubber and then re-assemble it again... see if that helps.!
+Moonfleet41 tried anyway and worked great but now major problem!! Followed all your steps even the vas on tank when fitted tap in but when I lift tank fuel comes out fuel line pipe like its on prime? Tap res poss.What's gone wrong? Didn't happen when I removed tank?
+MJS76GARVEY not sure i understand the question buddy....if you have followed all the steps then it will work fine...if it isnt, then you've either missed something, or have a fault with the tap hardware...i cant really diagnose what up over email..!
+Moonfleet41 +Moonfleet41 after re building and fixing whole Petcock to the tank when I lift tank up to check for leaks fuel flows from the main fuel pipe? The tap is turned to RES position! Fuel should only flow in prime position? The only way of fuel leaving I assume is through the holes where the smiling face gasket is? There's only 4 parts that need replacing plus 2 screws and I done each part bit by bit. Apart from 2 seals in front face where tap turns, the 1 thin diaphragm seal is for the vacuum and then it's just 1 seal for fitting against the tank! Why would fuel flow when tap is not turned to prime position? Thanks
+MJS76GARVEY OK, i get it, the tap works by a vacuum source 'pulling' the diaphragm open to let fuel flow...so if its flowing but no vac source applied, then the diaphagm must be retracted by some other means, either its stuck open, perhaps due to some assembly error, or something is fowling its return, and it return via the spring pressure applied to it...so is the spring installed properly, is it squashed an not pressing hard enough?, Also, does fuel flow freely on the 'Pri' position.. if not, then you must have the smiley seal installed incorrectly maybe... those are just my thoughts working with the symptoms you describe, i would need it in my hand to investigate for any better assesment than that... see if that helps in some way, and let me know buddy.. Del.
My bandit will caught and splutter whilst on the main fuel line, then I switch it to reserve and its fine, even with a full tank, would you say its possibly a blockage in my main line inside the tank
Hi mate, there's a pair of those in every Suzuki tool kit and I've got half a dozen pairs having robbed them from bikes over the years, like you say, they are expandable and expendable! ... which is way better than Snap-On!
Hi Del! Great video! Had a leaky tap on my SV. Oil got diluted so I did an oil change. However the new oil after running the bike still smelled like petrol. Is that normal?
Hi mate, if you're changed the oil, then you've taken out the bulk of the contamination, remember oil clings to everything, so there will still be a small reside of petrol in there, but if you're concerned, give it 500 miles and change the oil and filter again... it won't do any major harm, as long as you got rid of the bulk of it.
I had the same problem yesterday with my Bandit12. I emptied 7 ltrs instead of 3.5 ltres of 'oil'. It spewed out white smoke, stank and ran terribly for 25kms, then it suddenly returned to normal. I guess it burnt off all the rubbish. I was told that it's probably a dodgy fuel tap so last night I disconnected the main hose and collected 200ml of petrol this morning. Which is what brought me here, although I did watch this vid a couple of years ago just for fun :) I never thought the fuel would leak through to the engine oil though, do you think that's possible Del?
@@matoko123 Oh yes indeed mate, not at all uncommon... the route petrol takes to reach your oil sump is easy enough.. bleeds through the fuel tap, fills the float bowls, if for any reason the needle and seats are not entirely closed in the carbs, it will continue to fill the carbs until it overflows... (back in the day all overflow tubes used to just vent to atmosphere and drain out onto the ground)... but now days they are plugged up, and should be drained out at service time.... but if they aren't, then the fuel continues to fill into the airbox, and also down the neck of your inlet manifolds.. through any open inlet valve, down the sides of the piston rings, and into the sump..! you can usually smell it right away, and if you keep a regular eye on your oil level, you'll spot it there too.!
@@Moonfleet41 Wow! Thank you for replying Del. Knowing that's the likely cause is actually a great relief! I've just ordered one of those FCK 44 kits off EBAY and shall keep my fuel pipe disconnected in the meantime. Have to wait for it to get to me in here in Bulgaria, it'll be my Christmas present if I'm lucky. Looking forward to the Scream. Now to apologise to my friend that told me it could be the fuel tap ;)
Is there an overflow hose attached to the tank? I think I have a hose that is dripping fuel after I struggle to get the bike off the center stand; i have to rock the bike back and forth to get the momentum. Any idea where the fuel drips could be coming from?
Hi buddy, yes, your tank has an overflow, it's a metal pipe at the back of the tank underneath, and it should have a rubber hose attached to it that goes down the back of the air box, and exits facing the ground in front of the swing arm... so if the drips you're getting are right under your centre stand, then lay down under the bike with it on the stand, look up underneath the bike, and you will see the end of the hose, along with, maybe, a couple of other drain hoses, and if any of them are wet with fuel, then that will be it .... also, if it's overflowing, are you filling it up too much?? It should never be higher than the bottom of the filler neck, in fact, preferably, about 1/2" of space lower down is preferable... Hope that helps
Just replaced the seals on my Mk1 fuel tap, but it's still leaking from the two bolts that secure it to the underside of the tank. I've checked the seal and its sitting perfectly. The rebuilt kit came with two white plastic washers that weren't in place prior to the rebuild so I've left those out. Do you reckon I need some kind of sealant between the tank and the fuel tap? Cheers and keep up the great vids
+M Jones No sealant will work on fuel better than a rubber gasket, perhaps fit the nylon washers as they were supplied and see if that helps, had a similar problem on mine, turned out to be a tiny rust pinhole in the tank due to water that nestles in the bottom over years of build up...!
a great video I have just replaced the petcock on my gsx600f and cured the leak but once bike is started I have petrol pouring from my rocker cover holding bolt above cylinder 1 any ideas
No idea mate, id need to see it for myself to work that one out.. i cant see how petrol is related to a rocker cover bolt... how is it connected to it..? id need more to consider what going on buddy..
Thanks very much for this mate. my bike hasnt been starting, and think its a fuel tap issue, looking forward to taking it apart and having a look! Thanks again, ill let you know if it starts running!
Did you get around to taking it apart? My bike ran perfect on Tuesday but wouldn’t start the next day and once I got it started with the throttle open it would stall on idle. Used a funnel with gas to bypass the petcock and filter and then it seemed to run fine. So gonna try filter first and if that doesn’t help I’ll look at the petcock.
Hi! I just saw this video. Instructive, a lot to learn from it. But...I think I saw an extra o-ring which it's left unmounted. At min 10.15 the frame that retain the selector appears to have an o-ring( Other than the one from the selector itself).at the end of the rebuilt,the same o-ring is left unmounted. Am I right or maybe I'm wrong? It is with no bad intention,just for clarifying. Thanks and keep up the good work!
Hello from Newcastle upon Tyne I have a question for you I have a triumph trophy 900 1993/94 model and I got a fuel tap kit now after fitting replacing all seals I put this on the tank I have a nozzle for the air a nozzle that is the main flow and a nozzle that goes back to carb now me thinking once everything is changed then petrol shouldn’t flow unless there’s air suction but one of the nozzles had petrol flowing I changed everything accordingly and I can’t seem to find any videos that shows my tap system any ideas or should I bite the bullet and get a new one what’s your thoughts on this Many thanks G burn
Hi Gav, from reading your message, the only think that comes to mind is, perhaps, a prime setting... all vacuum taps have a prime facility where fuel will flow without vacuum... if yours has this, is it on the prime setting when flowing?
Thanks for this I will check this as i just put it together and the petrol was flowing so I put the tank back to where it was after draining the fuel as I was a bit confused so I thought I would ask and as I have been enjoying all your videos and tips and tricks I thought I would ask you thanks again that makes much more sense now and keep up the good work 👍 loving the builds Many thanks Gav
Is there any reason to have the fuel tap set to Reserve instead of On/Run; just clocked that its been on reserve since Suzuki serviced it last year. Just a random question as other than possibly sucking crap off the bottom of the tank what do you gain by not using that fuel?
It wont suck crap in as the reserve tube is still about 1" off the tank floor, and its got a brass gauze to protect it anyway.. You use the ON/Run as your daily setting, and then when you run out and it coughs dry, switch over to reserve and you have another 4 liters to get you to the garage (about 25+miles in fact).....if you only ever use the fuel guage and dont run it that low to hit reserve... then for gods sake set it to 'ON' as if you forget to fill up, and it does run out.. you have a long push home.....kinda obvious really. Cheers mate. De..
Hey there, thanks for the great video. I was having problems with my bike cutting out after a while at high speeds. so the recommendation was to rebuild the petcock. so I did, now unfortunately the bike runs worse then ever :-( could I really have done anything that bad to mess up the bike while rebuilding the tap? there was a lot of rust on the tap when I pulled it out. I cleaned it all thoroughly before replacing it. is it possible by taking off the tap I disturbed rust in the tank which has now made its way to the carbs? any help would be appreciate
hi del i was riding the bandit the other day and it just died on me on a stop light as i was slowing down. i pulled off the road to find out what was wrong. i tried starting the bike few times but it would not run. so i turn the petcock to prime for about 2 minutes and the bike started right up. my bike had enough fuel in it. what do you think is the problem here. is it my petcock or something else can be wrong.
Thanks for the vids mate, I have returned tobiking and ridea gsx600f which as you know is basically a bandit. Have used your advise and carried out several jobs successfully saving me lots of money thanks again. Do you have any plans or could you look at clutch adjustment and or replacement on the bandit as mine is in need of some tlc. Keep up the good work
Great video my bandit 6 I broke the tap while messing with the tank so I've ordered new tap 16 pounds on eBay this video will come in handy great help as always
I ended up just removing the vacuum parts, blocking off the vent with a homemade gasket and some permatext, capping the vacuum line. No leaks so far, but haven't filled the tank, so we'll see.
Hi Sal, well perhaps it may just serve to instil a sense of urgency into the young bronze ... lest he have a ticket to write AND a mess to deal with LOL! ... Looking forward to seeing you on Sunday, hun (but don't worry I'll go before I leave home!)...D&P
Hi buddy, not sure what issues you're having, but the standard vacuum tap works really well, if you're gonna switch to a gravity tap, then Pingel is probably the best option, makes sure you buy one with a reserve facility, as they come without, and also make sure you fit the fuel hose diameter for the correct fuel feed... good luck with it !
If the tap is draining through when there is no vacuum on it,...then it could do with a look at... the kit doesnt cost much so give it a go and see if it cures it.. make sure first that its passing the fuel 'through' the tap and not leaking from the joint with the tank.. good luck with it.. let me know how it goes.. Del.
Simon Page Hi Simon...it will take a vacuum feed off a tiny steel tube in between the carbs, usually found maybe on one of the inlet rubbers....depending on what bike it is..!
Hello Wonder if you can help, I started my K3 yesterday let it warm up then turned it off but when I returned the next day there seemed to be petrol dripping from the exhaust separation section. So I took off the can and I could see petrol sitting in the down pipe... Help ?
Great to see such detailed instructions with commentary. Old but gold. Thanks Del.
Hey Del, much respect on the "ease" you demonstrate when performing delicate tasks. Master mechanic! You were "spot on" when you mentioned the dealer response. Had the same problem several years ago on a bike. The dealer recommended that I "upgrade" the entire unit to a pengel unit, which I did. Better unit but, expensive. Never thought to rebuild myself, this is why I love your channel! Love the humor as well! Love the new "Busa" sticker!!!!!!! Too funny!!!!
Hi Del, Yes, I've been pleased to find that I can do a fair amount of basic maintenance on my Harley, thanks to the help of you and other TH-camrs showing the way. I like riding more than wrenching and I don't aspire to become a qualified mechanic, but it's very interesting to see how bikes and parts function and how service jobs are done! I really appreciate the effort that you and Penny put it, thanks mate!
Delboy's Garage was the firs I saw with reparing the Bandit, so thanks a lot for your help and your cool work. I'm not so good, 'cause I'm back motorriding for 20 years ago. But you help me a lot.
Best wishes and take care,
Roman
Roman S. Hi Roman, its good to hear from you my friend, and im glad the videos can help you out... welcome back to biking and enjoy the roads buddy... all the best.. Del.
Hi mate... to clean out yer tank...chuck in a fist full of ball bearings or lead shot...add a pint of water..seal up all the hols with duct tape (taking the fuel tap out first)..then shake the shit out of it for ten minutes til yer arms fall off ..then open up the tank holes, drain and wash it all out...keep rinsing till its totally clean...then let it dry open in a warm place so all the moisture dries out...then use "Petseal" rubber solution to line the tank afterwards..job done..good luck, Del
so glad i came across your video.... not often you get someone giving the exact step by step instruction... this has helped me immensely... thank you.. you will be my first stop if i get anymore problems with my bandit 1200.
Most welcome buddy, welcome aboard, and glad you can use the videos.. Del.
Just so you know. 7 years on (at a guess from the comments) and this video will still be helping people. I am about to start work on my bandit N600 and this is going to help me no end. Thanks dude. Great video, I will be watching this back a few times. :) Take care.
Most welcome Sir, glad it helped you and great to know it's still playing it's part!
Alright delboy! This is class , just got an unused bandit '00, 600 for free off a mate's. Cousin, I've been off bikes for about 15 years so am bursting to go, she's been left in the weather for 10 years so lots to do , and you teach just how I like to learn , I'm going to give it a blast myself , never been to college but I'm doing a degree on you tube. Professor Del, cheers! Mick in cork IRL.
Ayup Mick, good to hear from you fellah and what a fun project that sounds to be! Nothing like doing it yourself and a free bike, what's not to like?! Good luck with it me ol' mate, get stuck in and have a good time... all the best D&P
Nice one glad to see you both having some fun "on set". My bike has a similar vacuum valve but it's mounted on the carb fuel rail and the petcock on the tank is just a 3 position valve. Good seeing how things are done on newer & different bikes. Fuel gauge, what a luxury on a bike!
del just cleaned out my carbs for the first time on my bandit 600 yesterday and i couldne believe the grit in the float bowls took me all day to do the job just took my time with my haynes, was getting a little rough running at low revs thought maybe pilots blocked and some where , used carb cleaner away from any rubber bits and compressed air. ballanced carbs when fitted but cant get out to test run as rain rain rain today joys of biking cheers del
Hey Penny and Del, came across this one from the depths of time! Although you now have a bigger garage, better video and audio equipment and a more refined approach, the raw appeal of your videos is here in plain sight. Really great job of instructing on the task. Thanks again! Take care, be well and ride safe!
Thanks so much for your kind words buddy.. i never get time to watch the old videos, shame as it reminds me of simpler times and a more friendly youtube..!
Del thanks for putting these videos up it has inspired me to go back to night school to do a motorcycle mantainance course loved the bandit rebuild keep it up
Fantastic video...thanks for putting this up. Just rebuilt my fuel tap with the kit today and followed this video step by step. Turned out to be quite an easy job in the end and gave me a chance to inspect my air filter and fuel filter too.
Hey! I have a Suzuki GSF1200 Bandit. Almost 57k Miles, and I am experiencing this fuel smell, and have observed the fuel leaking from the petcock. I will be rebuilding my fuel petcock this weekend - I appreciate you making this video!
Hye buddy... i have to tell you, im not evne sure if this fix was the route of the prblem.. i stopped the fuel smell for a week..but then it came back... and in the end, i traced it to a tiny tiny micro pin hole in the tank itself... ill explain!
The Bandit tanks site the fuel tap down in a cavity at the bottom left of the tank....this cavity is the veyr lowest point of all....and any water that gets in from rain around the filler cap, or what ever other means, will just sink to the bottom and sit in this cavity for years....and in the end.. it will breach the rubber coating and rust its way through.... this is what happend to my tank... so before you rip your tap apart, have a very close look all around the tap hole at that bottom section it sits in and make sure there are no pin holes of rust spots.... in the end i picked up a new (second hand) tank from eBay for £30, slapped my old tap in and it fixed it..
Hope that helps buddy.. good luck with it... Del.
I appreciate the heads up! I will search for any leaks that are originating from the tank before the rebuild, and will get back to you on the cause!
Hey delboy love your Vids, I don't know what to do with my bandit though, it has been plagued by this fuel leaking problem. After I failed to fix it myself, I took it to a proper bike shop, who are known for their work on bandits. $600, They rebuilt the carbs, rejetted the carbs, and synced them. I took the bike on a trip, worked flawlessly but yesterday only a week after it started leaking fuel into the crankcase And floor. Idk what to do now.
Ok, thanks for the update.. where is the fuel leaking from if its going on the floor..? can you trace where its coming from on the system...
Oh! Forgot to update you. The leak was from the oring that connects the assembly to the tank - the oring had somehow fused to the paint, and the paint had chipped away from the tank causing my leak. I cleaned off the paint from the area where the oring should contact, and with a new oring, my leak was solved.
Hi Matt, thank you for your kind comments, have a look through there's a few bandit vids in the back catalogue that may help you ... with the tank, it fits on to a 'shoe' at the front which has a rubber cover, this gives the tank some isolation from vibration, so yes, there will be a very small amount of play at the front as the bracket moves around in it's rubber mount...good luck with your new bike, always feel free to ask if you need any advice, happy to help - Cheers, mate, Del
Hi Chris, at least you attempted it mate, and didn't just hand it to the dealer...the problem with the Discovery loads is that they are restricted to 7mins on the video uploads, I guess it's a continuity thing, so this would fall way outside that...I tried suggesting doing them in 2-3 parts, but they can't do that either ... they've got about 24 of my vids in stock to edit down and use of which they seem to have loaded only a dozen so far ..thanks for watching, buddy, cheers, Del
Hi Bill, what would also be a luxury is if the said fuel guage was half way accurate LOL! Thanks for watching, mate, take care, Del
Hey Del , just a quick one, thanks for the vids its given me confidence to have a go myself , serviced me bandit no problems thanks mate keep up the good work . Andy
Hi mate, I've got a pengel tap in my toolbox, was great for passing more fuel when I was running a 1260 kit on my old EFE, but after 2yrs leaked like a sieve, so I re-kitted it using old inner tube rubber, then chucked it in my toolbox - thanks for watching, mate, Del
Hi Peter, thanks for that perfect explanation, I couldn't put it better myself ...it's exciting to see such hunger and enthusiasm from the new blood and gladdens my old heart that bikers will survive into the future LOL! Thanks for your input, mate, wise words, well said - Del
Good tip on dry seals there....my tap wasnt dry so it was just corrosion and wear....but laid up bikes have lots of odd problems.. and thats one very good remedy for all o-ring seals, petrol and oil...!
Just done this to my 1200 bandit. You video was an excellent explanation. Simple and to the point! Cheers!!!
yet again del another great video on how to do it yourself, bike shops must love you showing all these how to do it videos lol
Thanks John, settling in nicely now, still got stuff everywhere, and the garage is still full of toot....but we're getting there... you're right on the bike care....keeping your bike tip top brings you closer to it and also helps you know how its doing which gives you time up front to make plans for those never ending expenses like consumables and servicing..not only that, it ads a wider path of enjoyment to owning your bike...ride safe chap.. cheers Del.
My god, I find youre videos educatial...greetings from a motorbiker in Norway
+kim hafslag Thanks Kim, how good to hear from you ! Glad you enjoy the videos, and thanks for getting in touch - ride safe - D&P!
still ALOT of gd info on this and really helpfull in 2019 - you sir are doing a really great job with this build help vids - I hope to see more of them, even thou I love the busa build aswell thumbs up!
Hi Joe,provided it is petrol & not condensation,then it sounds like a stuck float..what is your 'K3' - GSXR presumably & is it carbs or injection? If carbs, you could have a stuck float causing the feed to gravity drain into the cylinder through an open inlet valve, but that would more usually run down the side of the cylinders into the sump (so your oil will smell of petrol)..but fluid coming out of exhausts is more usually just condensation water,caused by cold steel vs. hot gases etc. ..Del
Fair play very well done, informative, camera work tidy, just got bandit 600n with carb over feul issues, am going to carry out rebuild of feul tap after watching your video. Great job.
Sonic bathed my carbs today, lots of green scaly crud removed, brass fine brush used to lightly defer heavy deposits, refitted all after assessing jets, diaphragms, damper condition, noticed carb heater plugs to stop icing all disconnected and tops of plugs removed/broken been advised from club that OK to leave deleted, (your thoughts greatly appreciated, it will be my daily driver, but don't really have very harsh Winters, probably won't use if if we do). Are there positional /jet numbers/ emulsion tube and main jet configurations that need adhering to as it looks like these carbs have been apart before, (witness marks on jet slots) probably wise to get a manual also.
Thanks for your channel, was watching your wheel bearing video this evening, very well done again. 👍🏻Looking forward to learning more from you.
Andy Rayner. 👍🏻🏴
Hi Byron, I hardly think that would be the case! The whole amazing thing with these videos since we started has been people who didn't think they could do anything discovering that they actually can! ... most of us have un-tapped skills we just don't know we have! Thanks for your every present support, mate, Del
Too bad some bike shops rips you off
Great videos,
l would like to know, how the kit held up over time? & any other thoughts in retrospect.
Good video help. At the end only missed the wavy washer under the plate with the inscriptions Fuel, Res, Pri, On. thanks for the help
Very good thanx. I have a vx 800 with the same tap. But where dose the vac hose connect to?
Very helpful. I had a leaky petcock on my '77 GS550 after rebuilding it and this video helped me see that I had reassembled the vacuum side incorrectly. Tomorrow will tell whether I've corrected it or not. Thanks, mate!
Good luck with it Mike, i hope it's all fixed.
@@Moonfleet41 It worked! I took it for a test ride this afternoon and no more leaking! Thanks again!
@@MikeMitchum Excellent news mate, it feels great when you get it back to normal.
I liked the rubber monster sound effects with the stretch, also the directions where easy thanks
Hi Del ok I have made some new discoveries with my suzuki bandit so like we spoke about before i filled up it and took it for another spin it still rode poorly at lower revs but as they hit about 5k revs it took off like it used to! However after about 20 mins it started playing up again even at high revs, so I took another look at it anyways I found out that what I believe is a fault in cylinder 1, (the one on far left of the engine block when ur sat in the seat i think) I checked that the HT lead sent a spark to the plug by leaving a little bit of distance which it did between them and then I checked the plug itself again on the side of the engine block and it gave a healthy spark, now heres the thing! when I totally disconnected that spark plug from the HT lead it made absolutely NO DIFFERENCE to the bike running whatsoever, the revs stayed the same and it still sounded awful but just kept on ticking over as it was before I disconnected it,so now I reconnected that one and did the same with spark plug 4 or cylinder 4 so to speak and as I disconnected this one and the bike spluttered and died,so I now know the problem is with cylinder 1 so I went back to cylinder one and checked the spark plug again it seemed like it was covered in fuel and oil, twice I run the bike with it in there and twice I removed it and checked it both times it had oil mixed with fuel as I dabbed it on tissue to be sure, I believe it was so wet that it could not ignite now the final thing I did was that I actually fired the bike up with that cylinder open and held my hand above it within moments it got damp and i thought I could see a little white smoke coming out of it too, but when I tried the same thing with cylinder 4 my hand stayed completely dry I remember giving it a oil top up recently as it was a lil bit under the full mark but im wondering if I have put a bit too much oil in and and it could have increased the pressure somehow, maybe forcing oil past the seals into the combustion chamber? any ideas, will it need new seals and a new gasket maybe? would it be advisable for me to buy a compression kit to test and finally if they have gone is there anything I can just put into the engine to seal it up like a liquid or will I have to do a proper job with more seals and a new head gasket if that's the case.
I also took a photo down in cylinder one and could see some oil around near where the spark plug sits in the lower part of the cylinder.
One more thing when I first tried to start it this morning it went BANG real loud made me jump!!!
Sorry for the massive message but im just trying to give you as much information as I can.
Thanks again!
+Jimbo Deano Hi Jimbo, please don't apologies for the message... information is all useful..... what you are describing, sounds to me, like Pot 1 just isn't working. It's not firing, even though a spark is going in there.... and this can be because the valves are not sealing and allowing compression to occur , so the oily residue is simply un-burnt fuel mixture that isn't being ignited!
The fist thing to check is the compression... and best to do all four Pots... it's not so important how much compression you are getting, just whether it's the same in each cylinder! So fast forwarding, if you find Pot1 has extremely low compression, it could be an open valve due to a closed up shim gap. When was the last time had a valve clearance check?? Check them, and set them correctly... then do the copmression test AGAIN. If this cures it, then that's what it was! If it doesn't, then it could be more serious, such as, perhaps, piston rings...to check for this... stick a couple of teaspoons of oil down the open plug hole of Pot1 and repeat the compression test again... if that cures it, then you have either a broken ring, or a damaged piston.
Check those things, and let me know buddy... it has to be something like that !
Thank you very much! I might have the exact problem on my bike (Suzuki GSX600F 1997).
Hopefully I will find a Repair Kit online.
Mines started recently750. I couldnt really see there which tap feed was for fuel pipe and which was overflow andbwhich part of rhe tp they atrached to
Hi mate, always happy to help others learn, not sure exactly what you mean when you say general mechanical knowledge, mostly that is something you build over years by using common sense mixed with some straight forward technical learning from manuals or videos and just getting involved and practicing ...I'm afraid there's no short circuit to knowledge you have to learn it stick by stick, do lots of small jobs, learning as you go & some day it will build up into a bank of knowledge - cheers, Del
Hi Ted, I left the rain water pipe off because it wasn't on there in the first place, the little there is just drains down behind the air box as it's a rat bike I'm not bothered, but thanks for you amazing observation - you legend! Thanks Del
Took the tank off my Zx6r the other day to get to some wiring. bent the fuel tap in the process, started pissing petrol everywhere, then put a spanner on my battery followed by exciting sparks. luckily no fire... refurbished another 2nd hand tap the other day, looks like I got it right but thanks for the tip with the seal onto the tank!
:o) after many many years of doing all my own repairs servicing and rebuilding on my bikes i do know a bit. this one almost beat me..lol.. in all that time the only thing ive done with a petcock is turn it on .. so your vid was a god-send..cheers mate ..oh by the way while i was waiting for the repair kit i made a gasket out of cardboard and fitted it over what was left of the diaphragm it held it in place and got me to work all week hehe ..its surprising what you can do in an emergency!!
another top vid young man.... the scream face was the highlight though lol... seriously its good to see whas involved if i ever need to do the tap on my bandit..
Nice demo. I think the brown grunge is rust, accumulated near the bottom of the tank because water impurities will layer out at the bottom and tend to cause rust there. There is a lot of mysticism surrounding the topic of fuel stabilizer and alcohol. It makes sense that the alcohol present in fuel stabilizer allows more water to dissolve in the upper fuel layer, reducing the tendency for water to layer out and cause localized rust at the bottom. Alcohol gets blamed for a lot of problems but reality is more complex.
ok del redid all the readings they all range between 110 to 120 so im chuffed about that I will do all you told me by the months end and when ya ready tell me how I can buy one of those caps.
Thanks again!!!
+Jimbo Deano Good news mate, great to hear you are getting it sorted! Tha caps are available now... if UK they are £19 inc. postage... and send the payment to this Paypal address: moonfleet10@yahoo.co.uk ..... and include your name/address/YT name in the 'message' section and we'll do the rest ! Good to hear you got the bike sorted, it's rewarding ain't it!
This is very helpful with what we’re trying to do. The lock will not open on it. It’s been sitting for a hot minute and the gas is more than likely bad af. (Yes, we’ve tried everything to open it) without destroying the lock, we’re thinking that if we take the gas tank off, leave it upside down for a prolonged period of time, the lock will get lubricated enough to open. I got meager knowledge on the subject. Just got the bike and it needs to be looked at but we know it needs work.
Hello Delboy, thanks for all the great help you provide. I have 3 questions regarding the Bandit petcock, can you swap it for a non- vacuum petcock? And if so from what model? Then what do you do with the vacuum line to the carb and to or from the 2ndary air valve assy. Thanks again Ron
+Ron Howard Hi Ron, you can buy a Petcock from the American company "Pingel" so just google search for "Pingel fuel tap Suzuki Bandit" and im sure you'll find a product, and it will come with a model specific adaptor plate to bolt it staigh on....with the vacuum hose, either take it off all together and silicone a rubber brake bleed valve cap over the end, of cut the hose itself to about 3" long, and silicone a bolt in the end to seal it... all the drag race supply companies sell Pingel taps... easy swap.. hooe that helps buddy, good luck with it. Del.
Thank you for all your help. I do have a question. I've replaced the entire tap and it is still flooding my carbs any ideas?
Hi, I,ve watched this video a few times and have a tap repair kit on order.. I noticed that when I removed the tap "face plate" that there is a springy metal washer type of thing that was missing from your video (and tap), Maybe this was the tinkling sound I heard at between 11:13 and 11:15 as something fell off??
Anyway, thanks for the great vid and the screaming rubber face!
EDIT -- Someone else already mentioned this so no worries
Hi Joe....ok, it makes sense that you should first check for stuck floats, little tap on each bowl can often cure it, you have a vacuum tap, so check you haven't left it on prime 'PRI', & once you've cured the leak, no need to change the oil as long as the level is correct, if loads of petrol in it, then it will be overfilled.. also check the air box drain plug,make sure it's not gummed up & that no petrol has drained back into the drain box..good luck with that, hope it helps, mate, Del
Hi del I have just rebuilt my bandits fuel tap following your video which was really good.
question is, my bandit has suffered from progressively worse performance over the last 12 to 18 months (not riding it much) it tended to be after giving it some stick, you would back off and a few seconds later it would lose power, splutter like it's missing and eventually die completely.
also it is a Nightmare to start, taking ages to eventually go, once it's going it only firing on 2,3, and 4 with No.1 header stone cold until I fiddled with the "mixture screw" little one just before the connection for the carb rubbers, then it heated up quick and idled pretty nicely.
should say now it's had the carbs cleaned professionally TWICE!! new coils,plugs, new battery twice and has a good spark and all vacuum hoses and functioning correctly
each time the carbs were cleaned it ran ok but developed the same problem pretty quickly, I got it going the other day and ran it, it revved freely and I rode about 500yds when it started to have a little splutter, I leaned over and turned the tap to prime and it went off like a bullet!
and performed well under load all the way home.
like I said I have just rebuilt my tap and noticed the 'smiley face' is scored between the eyes, enough to allow fuel to pass between the two when not turned onto that setting (reserve?) would that cause a problem in your opinion with the vacuum operation as like I said, on prime it seemed ok.
any input greatly appreciated. and keep up the great. video.
lee
+Lee D HI mate, reading through your message, it sounds like the problem could be related to fuel starvation... specially as you say it seems to work and operate on 'prime'.
Just to explain the tap... it's vacuum operated on the first two settings 'ON' and 'RES' and the third setting 'PRI' is manually operated by a small cam pushing the tap open internally. So the fact it works on manual operation means that, possibly, you are not getting enough vacuum to open the tap, so is the vac hose to the tap properly connected, kinked, pinched, or perished?? If that's all healthy, then with your engine running, take the vac hose off the tap end, and stick your thumb over the end, it should suck quite firmly on the skin of your thumb...... if not, replace it, or check for blockages. If you are getting a firm vac, but it's not opening the tap, then, perhaps, the spring is too tight, wrongly fitted, or corroded.... either way, it seems the bike is running fine once it has a healthy fuel supply .... Those vacuum taps can be re-built, but tbh mate, they are a bit crap and if you wanna upgrade for a guaranteed sod-off healthy fuel supply, then buy a Pingel tap replacement kit and throw the factory shit in the bin! They have one or two outlets and come with, or without, reserve.... shop around in the drag race market, someone like Debben Performance in Ringwood will supply them... you can get an adaptor block to fit the tap to your Bandit, take 10mins to fit and will supply so much fuel, you won't believe it ! See how you get on with that mate !
Cheers Andy, glad you liked them and happy to have been of help...good luck ..Del.
Hi first of all love the videos this one had me chuckling I'm a very novice rider and haven't the faintest clue where to start about DIY but I'm going to have a crack at it. My problem is when I turn the tap on off or onto reserve nothing happens as in the bike should cut out when the fuel is off but it doesn't. Could it be a simple thing as a new seal kit many thanks in advance Paul
Hi Paul....if you have an old fashioned 'non vacuum' tap that actually has the 'OFF' option... then the engine will still run on its carburetor supply for about a minute or more before it finally runs dry and stops......but these days most fuel taps are "On, Reserve, and Prime".....so there is no 'Off' position....the tap cuts off with an internal spring when you cut the engine so its safe..!
Hi mate, I initially wondered that, but on reflection probably they don't care -there are plenty of customers out there who don't want to get their hands dirty and I only ever cover basic maintenance and bike care, I never encroach into the territory of the technician as I truly believe that that level of know how is not something you can portray in a video and I would never want to lead viewers down a road they can't get out of, so I keep it simple - cheers Del
best bandit advice i've found, thanks!
perfect, really needed a decent tutorial, rebuilding my yamaha tzr 125, cheers del
just a quick question, what would you say is the best way if any of getting rid of tank rust, this yamaha's tank im building back up i full of it, a m8 said to run some kind of filter on the fuel tap, is this a good idea? cheers
Gotta do this too. Was just gonna strip & clean. Ordered a refurb kit now, thanks
Just a simple little thank you for an excellent tutorial Del.
Thank you both :-)
Thank you for your video I have a Piaggio Zip 50 2T from 2015 when I drive and give a full acceleration the speed is cutting down what you thing is tap problem i been cleaning the carburettor and still the same many thks
Quick observation on the fuel tap rebuild Del..When you refitted the front plate that holds the turning part of the tap in place, you forgot to refit the spring steel washer...It keeps the tap part pressed in. You left it on your work bench ;)
+Steve Froud Hi Steve....cant remember now, it was three years ago...it worked just fine once i connected it and still does to my knowledge... i probably noticed it and fitted it later.. cant remember buddy.. !
the bike is a bandit gsf 600
its defo petrol I opened the garage as I could smell it, there was a big damp patch on the floor.
There was no sign of wet areas above the exhaust or any thing coming from the overflow pipes.
If it is a sticky float would you change the engine oil after checking the float.
Thanks
Hey Del I have had another go at my suzuki bandit today (i dunno why I say that u must know who it is by now :)) so i removed 500 mil of oil just as a precaution and now it sits just under the F mark then I took it out for a ride it rides great again from 5 k revs upwards and overall it feels better even on the lower revs but I still know theres a problem however, I am confident that top 1 is sparking again on and off then I bought a compression kit and I have tested the pots individually so here's the readings while the engine was warm pot 1 115 psi pot 2 115 pot 3 105 pot 4 117 so they are all pretty close I looked in the haynes manual for compression standard psi is 142 to 213 minimum psi allowed is 114 the max difference between psi permitted is 28 it states in the manual also that if 1 cylinder is below 142 its acceptable providing the other 3 are not and that no more than 28 psi difference is between them I didn't get enough time to test them by putting oil in them all ill try to do that tomo, again I checked the spark plugs pot 1 was still saturated as before but the other 3 were bone dry.
Shall I still put oil down all pots tomorrow and see if the psi rises or do you think I don't need to do that now and that the engine just needs needs a full overhaul???
Your advice on what I should do next will be greatly appreciated or is there anything else I can check for or have we pinpointed the problem now?
Thank again
+Jimbo Deano Hi mate, diagnostics by email lol ! But your detailed explanations make it all possible... you only have 8psi difference at most, and that's more than healthy, as long as the difference is within 15%, then that's perfect... all the BS in manuals doesn't take account of the real world! What you've read there is a healthy engine... if, maybe, a little low across the board...! A cold compression test, rather than a hot engine, would probably net you a higher figure, but it's a waste of time cos you're not trying to test the overall compression, just the balance between each Pot... and they sound fine...
So, from here on I would do this mate:
1. Valve Clearance check (cold engine, re-set as necessary)
2. Full Oil Change, inc. filter
3. K&N Air Filter Panel inside the air box
4. 4xnew Spark Plugs
5. Clean out Carburettor Bowls (but no essential)
6. Take it for a good, LONG, high-speed ride (a good hour up the motorway, right up at national speed limit)
And by the time you get home, you will have a lovely, smooth running bike!
Hope that helps - let me know how you get on , Del!
+Moonfleet41 Ok Del sounds good. on pot 3 I took 2 readings from it 1st time was at like 105 as it was the lowest but second time I did it was at 65 at this point the bike was running lower on battery but i simply took the higher measurement which was the first one and that surprised me since piston 1 was the one that was saturated and had issues. shall I check it once more again tomorrow just to be safe?
and ill do all those things as soon as I get a chance :)
Thanks again
Good day Del, so after the red cherry exhaust pipes situation, I noticed there wasn't any flipping oil in the bike. Put that in along with new oil filter. Then I decided to check spark plugs. Put in new just for peace of mind. Then I went in to check air filter and found it sitting in a pool of brown fluid. It has a red tint to it. (Transmission?) in doing this I found out that the air filter was removed and there were a couple hoses not connected. One seems to be the crankcase breather and the smaller one looks like it could go to the fuel tank. The previous owner also did the AI removal. Are these tubes not connected because of the AI removal?
Plus, in doing all this, I also notice a leak from the hose to the fuel tap too! Geez! I have a 2001 Triumph Bonneville
Don't I need a cover for the air filter?
Lisa
Hi Lisa, My word that sounds like a mess... glad you got some oil in it.. !! the oil in the airbox could be feedback from the crankcase breather, it's supposed to "re-breath" that oily mist back through the carbs, but it if the bike does a lot of short trips, and doesn't get ragged hard, then the oily mist fails to get dragged into the engine, but instead collects at the bottom of the airbox..which is why the airbox has a drain tube..!!
It should be drained out during servicing..
Not sure about your unconnected tubes, there should be one in the airbox that comes from the ending crankcase, thats right.. You also said.. """in doing this I found out that the air filter was removed""" So are you saying that there is no air filter in it?.. sorry wasnt clear.? and any fuel hose that leaking must be replaced obviously... Hope that helps a bit.. Let me know how you get on..?
Moonfleet41
Thank you for a speedy reply. When I pulled the tank off, there was not a tube coming from it nor is it plugged into anything. I wish I could send you a picture.
a picture of what Lisa, im not really sure what you're asking..?
Ha ha, 'Result'...well done buddy, and from that little list of checks and fixes you know yer stuff too......good going buddy, glad it worked for you...
Bloody hell the crud on that Del. Imagine what the jets get like
What did you do or not do with the overflow tube when you put the tank back on? Didn't see you reconnect it?
cheers del ill keep yous all imformed how it goes the weekend.
Hi del sorry this reply is on a different video . I removed the hose that was not connected to anything out and it says w=fuel hose sae j30 r6 suitable for unleaded 5/16" the two hoses iv got comming out of my fuel tap are connected straight to the carbs but this was just there not connected to anything im wondering if the mechanic who screwed my bike up put it there for some reason when I had it back my airbox was hanging off this pipe just there and numerous other things many thanx mark
Hi Mark, it could be a breather hose to your air box, there's one that goes from the top of head to the top of the air box and there should be a drain hose from the bottom of your drain hose... provided you have the fuel supply hose and the vacuum hose connected to your tap, then that's correct... what does this extra hose connect to, I'm a bit lost?
Hi del, when you balance carbs mate were do you connect the vacuum pipes from the guages to on the bike?? i have zx9r 2000 model, some people on net saying i might have to buy the take off points separte??? would a carb balance set not come with all needed fittings, cheers john
+john walker Hi John, so sorry mate, but ive not had cause to do a ZX9R, but all balance guages fit onto the vent tubes on the inlet rubbers, on the Kawasaki motors they are below the carbs, so go in from behind them, and just fit the balance guage set as usual... have a look at a few YT videos and you'll see where tye hoses fit in..! sorry not to be more help buddy. good luck with it.. Del.
+Moonfleet41 no worries del thanks for getting back to me, cheers john
Hi mate, look up the videos in the back catalogue of Rat Bike Scrim - it is basically Army scrim net spray glued on in two layers then drowned in blackboard paint with a brush - makes it rock hard like Kevlar LOL!
Hi Del, wondering if you could help a fellow Bandit rider? I pulled my tank for general maintenance, noticed leak from petcock main line, so... watched your rebuild episode, which by the way are the best on u-tube, then did my own rebuild. Very simple no problems, but it still leaks out the main fuel line when level. What gives? Cleaned the fuel cap and sprayed vent holes with gumout, but it will still leak even if I open cap. Hope you can help. It's a 2004 1200S, with the original vacuum carbs. Thanks Ron
Hi Ron... thanks for your question buddy, i know how irritating a persistent problem can be. Ok, you rebuilt the tap and once you plumb it all back up its still leaking.. So time for an 'elimination process'.
First, with the bike switched off, take the rubber hoses both off, and see if the tap leaks then....this will eliminate it being the tap,...once thats established, and its not the hardware, take the rubber fuel deliver hose off the carb end, hold it in your hand and pinch one end sealed while blowing down the other....that will check if the hose is split (in fact for a few pounds why not reaplce the fuel hose so you're sure)... and if its not the tap, and not the hose, then it can only be a leak from the tank just like mine did from a really tiny rust hole caused by water sitting at the bottom of the tank for years...
Give those things a go and let me know buddy... hope that helps.. good luck. Del.
Moonfleet41 Thanks Del... for a quick reply and some sound advise. The tank is not even on the bike at this point. I had pulled it off for other mods to the bike, tilted it up on it's side while working, went to put it back on when the leak began. That's why I thought it was the tap so I rebuilt that but it still leaks. You are right, I should break down and buy a new tap, but I'm still curious as to why after rebuilding the tap as to why it leaks? It is diffidently coming from the main hose outlet of the tap, not the tank or the attachment site, everything was and is super clean. Thanks for your help. Ron
had this same problem, bought the kit and installed it but it seems the problem was actually one of the two screws that hold the tap to the tank, gas is weeping through the threads...dont know what to do now. should i use some thread lock?
+illsuspect The gas will melt the threadlock right away, thats no good.. they should seal with the plastic washer that come with the fixing bolts.. at least thats what the factory tap fixing had, and my kit had those, they sealed fine..
Hey! Love your videos! They have helped me out a lot. I'm in California and ride a Honda VTX. Did the stem bearings a couple weeks back - time for the petcock now. Thanks!
Another great vid. I have a question, I'm rebuilding my tap but the small round rubber ring that goes round the inside of the actual tap you turn just won't allow me to turn without using pliers ? (It's at point after you fitted the gasket looking like scream 😀) I've left face play off and tried and with on but it's just so tight and you manage to turn by hand? Would a little Vaseline inside be ok? Round seal and metal contact points!?? Thanks for any help
Mark.
+MJS76GARVEY Hi buddy, i guess the whole lot being dry could be causing some drag, so yeah, smear some vasaline on the rubber and then re-assemble it again... see if that helps.!
+Moonfleet41 tried anyway and worked great but now major problem!! Followed all your steps even the vas on tank when fitted tap in but when I lift tank fuel comes out fuel line pipe like its on prime? Tap res poss.What's gone wrong? Didn't happen when I removed tank?
+MJS76GARVEY not sure i understand the question buddy....if you have followed all the steps then it will work fine...if it isnt, then you've either missed something, or have a fault with the tap hardware...i cant really diagnose what up over email..!
+Moonfleet41 +Moonfleet41 after re building and fixing whole Petcock to the tank when I lift tank up to check for leaks fuel flows from the main fuel pipe? The tap is turned to RES position! Fuel should only flow in prime position? The only way of fuel leaving I assume is through the holes where the smiling face gasket is? There's only 4 parts that need replacing plus 2 screws and I done each part bit by bit. Apart from 2 seals in front face where tap turns, the 1 thin diaphragm seal is for the vacuum and then it's just 1 seal for fitting against the tank!
Why would fuel flow when tap is not turned to prime position?
Thanks
+MJS76GARVEY OK, i get it, the tap works by a vacuum source 'pulling' the diaphragm open to let fuel flow...so if its flowing but no vac source applied, then the diaphagm must be retracted by some other means, either its stuck open, perhaps due to some assembly error, or something is fowling its return, and it return via the spring pressure applied to it...so is the spring installed properly, is it squashed an not pressing hard enough?,
Also, does fuel flow freely on the 'Pri' position.. if not, then you must have the smiley seal installed incorrectly maybe... those are just my thoughts working with the symptoms you describe, i would need it in my hand to investigate for any better assesment than that... see if that helps in some way, and let me know buddy.. Del.
Got a rebuild kit for my zx10 fuel tap.
Need to get mine done now.
Great vid as always mate
+DynamoDelboyZX10 Good luick with it Del, hope it goes well buddy...
I've sent off for the same kit watching your video I can definitely do it my only concern is the screw that holds the dial is threaded any tips
+Craig Senior Any stripped thread can either be drilled out and re-tapped....or replaced.. thats the only two options...!
+Moonfleet41 thanks
My bandit will caught and splutter whilst on the main fuel line, then I switch it to reserve and its fine, even with a full tank, would you say its possibly a blockage in my main line inside the tank
Hi mate, there's a pair of those in every Suzuki tool kit and I've got half a dozen pairs having robbed them from bikes over the years, like you say, they are expandable and expendable! ... which is way better than Snap-On!
Hi Del! Great video! Had a leaky tap on my SV. Oil got diluted so I did an oil change. However the new oil after running the bike still smelled like petrol. Is that normal?
Hi mate, if you're changed the oil, then you've taken out the bulk of the contamination, remember oil clings to everything, so there will still be a small reside of petrol in there, but if you're concerned, give it 500 miles and change the oil and filter again... it won't do any major harm, as long as you got rid of the bulk of it.
@@Moonfleet41 thanks, mate! Really puts my mind at ease!
I had the same problem yesterday with my Bandit12. I emptied 7 ltrs instead of 3.5 ltres of 'oil'. It spewed out white smoke, stank and ran terribly for 25kms, then it suddenly returned to normal. I guess it burnt off all the rubbish. I was told that it's probably a dodgy fuel tap so last night I disconnected the main hose and collected 200ml of petrol this morning. Which is what brought me here, although I did watch this vid a couple of years ago just for fun :) I never thought the fuel would leak through to the engine oil though, do you think that's possible Del?
@@matoko123 Oh yes indeed mate, not at all uncommon... the route petrol takes to reach your oil sump is easy enough.. bleeds through the fuel tap, fills the float bowls, if for any reason the needle and seats are not entirely closed in the carbs, it will continue to fill the carbs until it overflows... (back in the day all overflow tubes used to just vent to atmosphere and drain out onto the ground)... but now days they are plugged up, and should be drained out at service time.... but if they aren't, then the fuel continues to fill into the airbox, and also down the neck of your inlet manifolds.. through any open inlet valve, down the sides of the piston rings, and into the sump..! you can usually smell it right away, and if you keep a regular eye on your oil level, you'll spot it there too.!
@@Moonfleet41 Wow! Thank you for replying Del. Knowing that's the likely cause is actually a great relief! I've just ordered one of those FCK 44 kits off EBAY and shall keep my fuel pipe disconnected in the meantime. Have to wait for it to get to me in here in Bulgaria, it'll be my Christmas present if I'm lucky. Looking forward to the Scream. Now to apologise to my friend that told me it could be the fuel tap ;)
Is there an overflow hose attached to the tank? I think I have a hose that is dripping fuel after I struggle to get the bike off the center stand; i have to rock the bike back and forth to get the momentum. Any idea where the fuel drips could be coming from?
Hi buddy, yes, your tank has an overflow, it's a metal pipe at the back of the tank underneath, and it should have a rubber hose attached to it that goes down the back of the air box, and exits facing the ground in front of the swing arm... so if the drips you're getting are right under your centre stand, then lay down under the bike with it on the stand, look up underneath the bike, and you will see the end of the hose, along with, maybe, a couple of other drain hoses, and if any of them are wet with fuel, then that will be it .... also, if it's overflowing, are you filling it up too much?? It should never be higher than the bottom of the filler neck, in fact, preferably, about 1/2" of space lower down is preferable... Hope that helps
Thanks! Love your videos.
Just replaced the seals on my Mk1 fuel tap, but it's still leaking from the two bolts that secure it to the underside of the tank. I've checked the seal and its sitting perfectly. The rebuilt kit came with two white plastic washers that weren't in place prior to the rebuild so I've left those out. Do you reckon I need some kind of sealant between the tank and the fuel tap? Cheers and keep up the great vids
+M Jones No sealant will work on fuel better than a rubber gasket, perhaps fit the nylon washers as they were supplied and see if that helps, had a similar problem on mine, turned out to be a tiny rust pinhole in the tank due to water that nestles in the bottom over years of build up...!
Oh, bollox, more hassle! Thanks for the advice, anyhow.
a great video I have just replaced the petcock on my gsx600f and cured the leak but once bike is started I have petrol pouring from my rocker cover holding bolt above cylinder 1 any ideas
No idea mate, id need to see it for myself to work that one out.. i cant see how petrol is related to a rocker cover bolt... how is it connected to it..? id need more to consider what going on buddy..
Did you epoxy a mesh over the tank? Very cool texture.
Thanks very much for this mate. my bike hasnt been starting, and think its a fuel tap issue, looking forward to taking it apart and having a look! Thanks again, ill let you know if it starts running!
Did you get around to taking it apart? My bike ran perfect on Tuesday but wouldn’t start the next day and once I got it started with the throttle open it would stall on idle. Used a funnel with gas to bypass the petcock and filter and then it seemed to run fine. So gonna try filter first and if that doesn’t help I’ll look at the petcock.
Hi! I just saw this video. Instructive, a lot to learn from it. But...I think I saw an extra o-ring which it's left unmounted. At min 10.15 the frame that retain the selector appears to have an o-ring( Other than the one from the selector itself).at the end of the rebuilt,the same o-ring is left unmounted. Am I right or maybe I'm wrong?
It is with no bad intention,just for clarifying.
Thanks and keep up the good work!
Hello from Newcastle upon Tyne I have a question for you I have a triumph trophy 900 1993/94 model and I got a fuel tap kit now after fitting replacing all seals I put this on the tank I have a nozzle for the air a nozzle that is the main flow and a nozzle that goes back to carb now me thinking once everything is changed then petrol shouldn’t flow unless there’s air suction but one of the nozzles had petrol flowing I changed everything accordingly and I can’t seem to find any videos that shows my tap system any ideas or should I bite the bullet and get a new one what’s your thoughts on this
Many thanks
G burn
Hi Gav, from reading your message, the only think that comes to mind is, perhaps, a prime setting... all vacuum taps have a prime facility where fuel will flow without vacuum... if yours has this, is it on the prime setting when flowing?
Thanks for this I will check this as i just put it together and the petrol was flowing so I put the tank back to where it was after draining the fuel as I was a bit confused so I thought I would ask and as I have been enjoying all your videos and tips and tricks I thought I would ask you thanks again that makes much more sense now and keep up the good work 👍 loving the builds
Many thanks
Gav
Do you have to take the seat off to put on reserve, turn fuel off?.
Is there any reason to have the fuel tap set to Reserve instead of On/Run; just clocked that its been on reserve since Suzuki serviced it last year.
Just a random question as other than possibly sucking crap off the bottom of the tank what do you gain by not using that fuel?
It wont suck crap in as the reserve tube is still about 1" off the tank floor, and its got a brass gauze to protect it anyway.. You use the ON/Run as your daily setting, and then when you run out and it coughs dry, switch over to reserve and you have another 4 liters to get you to the garage (about 25+miles in fact).....if you only ever use the fuel guage and dont run it that low to hit reserve... then for gods sake set it to 'ON' as if you forget to fill up, and it does run out.. you have a long push home.....kinda obvious really. Cheers mate. De..
Moonfleet41 sound advice; I only asked as you don't have a reserve on a car, you just run out :)
Hey there, thanks for the great video. I was having problems with my bike cutting out after a while at high speeds. so the recommendation was to rebuild the petcock. so I did, now unfortunately the bike runs worse then ever :-( could I really have done anything that bad to mess up the bike while rebuilding the tap? there was a lot of rust on the tap when I pulled it out. I cleaned it all thoroughly before replacing it. is it possible by taking off the tap I disturbed rust in the tank which has now made its way to the carbs? any help would be appreciate
hi del i was riding the bandit the other day and it just died on me on a stop light as i was slowing down. i pulled off the road to find out what was wrong. i tried starting the bike few times but it would not run. so i turn the petcock to prime for about 2 minutes and the bike started right up. my bike had enough fuel in it. what do you think is the problem here. is it my petcock or something else can be wrong.
Thanks for the vids mate, I have returned tobiking and ridea gsx600f which as you know is basically a bandit. Have used your advise and carried out several jobs successfully saving me lots of money thanks again. Do you have any plans or could you look at clutch adjustment and or replacement on the bandit as mine is in need of some tlc. Keep up the good work
What is a fair price to have a set of carbs taken off a 600 fazer cleaned and put back on please thanks shane uk 🇬🇧
Great video my bandit 6 I broke the tap while messing with the tank so I've ordered new tap 16 pounds on eBay this video will come in handy great help as always
Thanks buddy, glad it can help you out !
Thanks for the guide, I have fixed my friends 1996 bandit gsf600. Was not working mode on only on prime. Now its been fixed.
would a leaky tap have caused my petrol tank to fill my oil sump last week? cheers for any help dell????
is this on a Bandit mate?... and when you say, 'filled your sump', do you mean, your sump is suddenly full of petrol???
I ended up just removing the vacuum parts, blocking off the vent with a homemade gasket and some permatext, capping the vacuum line. No leaks so far, but haven't filled the tank, so we'll see.
Top marks....first class instructional video. Saved me a few quid! £12 seal kit of flea bay & bish bosh bike running like new👍
Hi Sal, well perhaps it may just serve to instil a sense of urgency into the young bronze ... lest he have a ticket to write AND a mess to deal with LOL! ... Looking forward to seeing you on Sunday, hun (but don't worry I'll go before I leave home!)...D&P
I'm thinking of converting my bandit to a non vacuum petcock, is that a bad idea? it seems less prone to issues..
Hi buddy, not sure what issues you're having, but the standard vacuum tap works really well, if you're gonna switch to a gravity tap, then Pingel is probably the best option, makes sure you buy one with a reserve facility, as they come without, and also make sure you fit the fuel hose diameter for the correct fuel feed... good luck with it !
My fuel tap stills letting pass the fuel even if it's closed, reserve or on. do you think a repair kit like yours, will solve the problem?
If the tap is draining through when there is no vacuum on it,...then it could do with a look at... the kit doesnt cost much so give it a go and see if it cures it.. make sure first that its passing the fuel 'through' the tap and not leaking from the joint with the tank.. good luck with it.. let me know how it goes.. Del.
Moonfleet41 I think you're right. I'm going to try it =) thanks (i'll let you know the result)
My bike only runs on prime, so I've taken the tank off today and notice I have no vacuum pipe to the smaller tap, where should the pipe come from?
Simon Page Hi Simon...it will take a vacuum feed off a tiny steel tube in between the carbs, usually found maybe on one of the inlet rubbers....depending on what bike it is..!
Found it, cheers! there's 4 on the top of my bandit 12, one didn't have a rubber on so I presumed it was that! Cheers for your vid buddy,
Hello
Wonder if you can help, I started my K3 yesterday let it warm up then turned it off but when I returned the next day there seemed to be petrol dripping from the exhaust separation section. So I took off the can and I could see petrol sitting in the down pipe... Help ?