Mt Shuksan - solo climbing the Southeast Rib
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
- We did a car-to-car summit of Mt Shuksan on August 2nd via the Sulphide Glacier route.
The Southeast Rib route sounded pretty easy, and we were lazy, so left our dynamic rope behind and just brought a 6mm hyperstatic line (Mammut Glacier cord) which worked great for glacier travel and rappelling down.
By the time we got to the notch in the ridge there were two large rope teams ahead of us and several smaller teams both on the ridge and going up the gully. We decided not to wait and scrambled up the face between the gully and ridge which had a couple of spicy sections. I ended up going up to the ridge and G&G traversed over into the gully, which looked harder than the ridge climbing.
The ridge had a couple of moves that were low 5th class, but rock was really and there was a pretty good platform below. The guided group let me through, and the rest of the ridge was really fun and juggy climbing.
G&G ended up traversing over to the other ridge, top of which was an easy walk up to the summit.
Rappel down took a long time as the gully was clogged with groups coming down and up. We ended up sticking to the climbers left side, with 4 full 30meter rappels. The bottom two stations only had a single sling, so we added another just to be sure.
We walked down the final steep patch of snow instead of rappelling and I ended up punching through some soft snow, falling backwards, and stabbing myself in the thigh with my ice axe. Didn't notice the blood until down at the parking lot.
The next section of rock was really spicy in crampons, especially downclimbing a big crack with a rotating chockstone.
After descending the crevassed part of the glacier, I decided to climb the very prominent peak right after the Fisher Chimneys trail split. This is labeled on Gaia as The Hourglass, but looking at other maps, I think that name refers to the glacier feature, not the peak. The view from the top of the glaciers around was spectacular, but the climb up and down was definitely harder than the East Ridge especially because there was no clear route.
Music by TrackTribe, DivKid, Geographer, Alexander Nakarada - www.creatorcho... / @anakarada
00:25 Shannon Ridge Trailhead
01:12 Entering North Cascades National Park
01:38 First light
02:48 First look at the summit
03:30 High Camp
04:12 Sunrise
05:18 Roping up
06:31 At the notch
06:57 Scrambling under ridge
08:34 On the ridge
09:40 Climbing last pitch
11:00 Crowded summit
12:20 Rappelling down
14:20 Down to the snow
15:04 Getting in some extra climbing
Great, but doesn't look like solo
Probably misleading terminology, when I say solo, I mean free solo, climbing 5th class terrain without any protection, not climbing it alone/without anyone else around.