I used the saddle valve that came with my kit. It does make for an easy installation. But after reading and watching This Old House saying how they fail, I decided to replace it with a T and valve. My saddle valve was on for a few years before I replaced it and never leaked or failed. The kit I purchased came with coper tubing. This started to leak after a few years. I replaced it with vinyl tubing and has been leak free for decades.
My saddle valve has been leak free for 21 years- plastic line and everything. Don’t drink the fear kool-aid. I’ve turned it on/off twice with a new fridge install once and new flooring install a year later.
I would like you to check the saddle a year from now. They fail faster than a Tee. I have replaced many of them all had a ground on the panel to the copper causing electrolysis in turn making the top nut rust and soon after failing. Just a observation
I agree Doug, I’m not the biggest fan of them. I prefer to solder on a 1/2” x 1/4” Brasscraft valve. I wanted to share this as an option for a homeowner who may be intimidated by the job. I think a saddle valve should come with a solid warranty. I think they could be made better without a doubt!
Does this work on older CPC plastic pipe I am concerned about CPC Plumbing because it can get brittle I am considering pre-drilling the hole and then placing the saddle valve on what is your advice ?
@@DaveDocDIY believe it or not it worked out fine the CPVC was quite what would I say pliable not brittle at all. There was already a existing saddle valve but I bypass that and did not use that and went with a new one worked out great. Thankfully it wasn't a really old PVC as to where hot was an orange color pipe and cold was a blue color pipe.
@@tylert8151 I used an adapter at the water line fitting that had a hole in the side for a screw in valve. These valves that punch a hole in the copper pipe don’t meet code and are prone to leaking
Thank you very much for the tutorial! This helped me a lot to install my own valve.
I used the saddle valve that came with my kit. It does make for an easy installation. But after reading and watching This Old House saying how they fail, I decided to replace it with a T and valve. My saddle valve was on for a few years before I replaced it and never leaked or failed. The kit I purchased came with coper tubing. This started to leak after a few years. I replaced it with vinyl tubing and has been leak free for decades.
I like both of what you said! This was extra stock I had. I think I’ll make a video showing the method that you said in the future!
Wow that's great Intel for us rookies. Thanks
We're best friends now buddy.
Thank you! Worked great, no leaks. Just FYI, The Menard's Homewerks kit is the exact same thing, just repackaged.
Great info! Glad this helped!
My saddle valve has been leak free for 21 years- plastic line and everything. Don’t drink the fear kool-aid.
I’ve turned it on/off twice with a new fridge install once and new flooring install a year later.
I would like you to check the saddle a year from now. They fail faster than a Tee.
I have replaced many of them all had a ground on the panel to the copper causing electrolysis in turn making the top nut rust and soon after failing. Just a observation
I agree Doug, I’m not the biggest fan of them. I prefer to solder on a 1/2” x 1/4” Brasscraft valve. I wanted to share this as an option for a homeowner who may be intimidated by the job. I think a saddle valve should come with a solid warranty. I think they could be made better without a doubt!
I see you have copper lines, but I'm guessing it's just fine to use on PVC also?
Does this work on older CPC plastic pipe I am concerned about CPC Plumbing because it can get brittle I am considering pre-drilling the hole and then placing the saddle valve on what is your advice ?
I wouldn’t use it on CPVC
@@DaveDocDIY believe it or not it worked out fine the CPVC was quite what would I say pliable not brittle at all. There was already a existing saddle valve but I bypass that and did not use that and went with a new one worked out great. Thankfully it wasn't a really old PVC as to where hot was an orange color pipe and cold was a blue color pipe.
So installed this how ever its leaking from the part with the two blue clips only on one end any advice
Same problem, how did you fix this?
Thank you!
does it work on galvanized pipe?
I’d say no
That's exactly how we run your service line from the main water pipe
Never use one of these trash valves,
What you recommend?
@@tylert8151
I used an adapter at the water line fitting that had a hole in the side for a screw in valve. These valves that punch a hole in the copper pipe don’t meet code and are prone to leaking