I believe you can do all the bends on the brake and avoid the mallet move if you flip the piece over after the first bend. We would scribe the lines on it first for alignment. Back in college I did 1000s of these for collars for chase caps. I could be remembering wrong though, we had an 8' brake, and the seams were only about 36" long so the brake would just smash the thing down nice and flat....and we could hand crank it through rollers after that, then spot weld it and beat it into place on the chase cap.
I appreciate your input. A lot easier if you dont have a pittsburg lock machine or a friend with one. Also works well on throats for elbows that are shorter. a 2x2 throat was possible to run through the machine but would sometimes go wonky and screw the whole thing up. I used to do these for all my square throats
Is this guy for real? That was so awful on so many levels! First of all BOLT YOUR BRAKE DOWN TO A SECURE TABLE NUMBNUTS !! I was waiting for it to come crashing down on your feet, howabout bending your second mark in from the edge at a 90° flip the metal over place it on the outside of the brake, bend your first mark ALL THE WAY OVER TO A 45 then flatten it out, take it from me a 40 year veteran of tin bending
Lol, "easier". Two hands and a knee, while balancing on one foot and tugging on a 200+ brake. Lose your balance and you'd pull the whole thing right over on top of you. Just for one little piece of thin metal. Let's see you use the "easier" method on full-width 22 gauge. But I'll give you full points for using a mallet instead of a hammer on your brake.
Man, you are ONE with that break. What an artist.
It used to be in my bedroom ;) TMI?
I believe you can do all the bends on the brake and avoid the mallet move if you flip the piece over after the first bend. We would scribe the lines on it first for alignment. Back in college I did 1000s of these for collars for chase caps. I could be remembering wrong though, we had an 8' brake, and the seams were only about 36" long so the brake would just smash the thing down nice and flat....and we could hand crank it through rollers after that, then spot weld it and beat it into place on the chase cap.
Sure can but I find it faster because you dont have to keep removing and reclamping
Hopefully more videos coming soon, you actually have good stuff on your channel.
Thanks Anthony, Definitely have a bunch more coming this winter
Great demo
Came across your videos and enjoyed them. Good info. Noticed you haven’t posted in years. Did you get out of the business or something?? 🙏
Great video
Thanks!
Better lighting would be good , maybe bend a holder to move it up.
So how much do you add to the metal to allow for the pittsburg seam? For example if I want it to finish off at 18" what do I cut the material to?
19" a small pittsburg is a 1" allowance and a large pittsburg is 1-1/2"
Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
So the z pattern you skipped what you did on that second bend. I believe you went went a half inch from edge and made your second break?
The second brake I was creating the offset back over to all for the 2 layers in the z pattern
Can you do that with any brake, such as a Malco portable brake?
As long as the bottom leaf is 3/8"
Impressive
Thanks, appreciate it!
What is your prefrence for impact guns? i'd like to see more videos!
+Giuseppe M I like milwaukee
Thanks for the reply. I am currently a 3rd year apprentice in local 40 sheet metal union in CT. are you a union tinknocker?
how can i make my own 20" duct connector with sheet metal ?
is there any videos on this ?
A lot easier on a Chicago 1016.
Chicago 1016 has a 1/2" bottom leaf. You need the smaller to get a small pitts
In no way shape or form is this easier
I appreciate your input. A lot easier if you dont have a pittsburg lock machine or a friend with one. Also works well on throats for elbows that are shorter. a 2x2 throat was possible to run through the machine but would sometimes go wonky and screw the whole thing up. I used to do these for all my square throats
Is this guy for real? That was so awful on so many levels! First of all BOLT YOUR BRAKE DOWN TO A SECURE TABLE NUMBNUTS !! I was waiting for it to come crashing down on your feet, howabout bending your second mark in from the edge at a 90° flip the metal over place it on the outside of the brake, bend your first mark ALL THE WAY OVER TO A 45 then flatten it out, take it from me a 40 year veteran of tin bending
Well stated
maybe you should make a video on how to do it numbnuts!
@@stealthu13 I will just for you!
I am for real! How do you know my brake wasnt boilted down? So take it out and extra time and flip it for no reason?
Lol, "easier". Two hands and a knee, while balancing on one foot and tugging on a 200+ brake. Lose your balance and you'd pull the whole thing right over on top of you. Just for one little piece of thin metal. Let's see you use the "easier" method on full-width 22 gauge. But I'll give you full points for using a mallet instead of a hammer on your brake.