Great video. Started running rotella t4 on my 300 ktm after 100 hours. It feels better, shifts cleaner and oil change at 25 hours look cleaner than the motorex, less goo. I’ll continue using it on my new 2023 when I get it. I do trust shell to MA certify, I mean they’re one of the biggest oil companies in the world with a massive engineering dept - if you can’t trust their label we’re screwed.
Your right on track with your analysis of oils. Both Shell Rotella and Mobile Delvac are refined to a higher degree than other motor oils due to requests long ago by the trucking industry to manufacture an oil to endure longer oil change intervals. OTR trucks can go well over the 5-7k intervals in cars and light trucks. It possesses a strong film strength and is more resistant to thermal breakdown. I’m not sure a motorcycle clutch would require an oil with strong film strength. Also it may well be money pitched out the door as most riders will change oil at 500-3000 miles. Cheap oil works, it’s less refined and it’s user will experience varnish in time. I used Motul for a bit then switched back to Phillip 66 x/c Aviation 25-w60. I know it expensive and overkill but I figured if it’s good for a radial aircraft engine with all the shearing metal components from run in to end of service life it should be fine for a bike.
Already commented on my other Acct. , but the haters got me riled up so I figured I say thanks one more time. Keep up the good work work Mike, we appreciate it. Braaap
Thank you for displaying the oil bypass ball. I did exactly what you talked about, removed the wrong drainplug. But now I know it is just to put back the ball with the spring and tight the bolt again. 😁
Very interesting information on JASO tested oil. I would imagine JASO charges big money to test oil therefore shell doesn't want to pay it. I know monopolies within the testing industry are extremely prevalent.
Another Tip: Buy one of the billet metal Oil Fill caps. Over time those plastic ones get boggered up and can potential cross thread. The billet ones have a better fitment, and can be secured with a wrench. They run about 20$
Thank you , I really value your videos. Also, thank you for the links and the part numbers. I’m running a 2013 KTM 500 EXC. This weekend I was distracted during the oil change and I ended up pulling the oil pump cover off because I mistook it for the oil filter cover.... duh.
On my RFS I would pour oil on the inside of the filter and turn it until the outside was soaked.... then insert it. Works well and the RFS had two filters.
Changed the oil in mine for the first time a week ago. Followed the steps in the Owner's Manual. Does it matter the order in which you remove the plugs? I'd rather much remove the plug under the engine first. I made a huge mess accidentally pulling out one of the side plugs first. I'll be more prepared next time.
Good overview, a must watch for new owners of the KTM line. To clarify, Shell does have oils that are indeed MA rated. They are submitted under Red and Yellow co. However, Rotella is not one of those listed. The fact that Shell does have JASO MA rated oils but Rotella isn’t one of those leaves me skeptical about Shells claim that Rotella meets the JASO MA specs.
The book for the 21 500excf says 1200cc or 1.3 quarts of oil is the capacity. I found this to be a bit low so the Taco man sight visual on the glass sounds like a good idea at least until you know exactly what you should put in there.
In my experience lower grade oils tend to have less detergent in them and lacquer builds up in rocker covers and tends to sludge more than quality oils. I have used mobil 1 on my 1989 XR 600 in Aus for last 20 years land still running original clutch plates. Over 10,000 miles (16,000 KMs)
Great video. Just like to add carb and brake cleaner can be hard on o-rings. I’d recommend contact cleaner to use in place if you happen to have it handy.
My ktm dealer said he likes to fill the oil alittle over half on the big bore bikes what do you think mike nice video I watch them all.and trust everything you say about bikes anyway lol 👍👍🏍🏍🏍🏍
If you've got an engine with a hydraulic cam chain tensioner, oil choice can have an impact on startup and idle noise levels. Clutch and shifting too. I agree though, oil choice has very little impact on the lifespan of engine components.
Great video! The info in all your videos are very helpful. Just picked up a 2024 KTM 500 EXC-F doing the one hour oil change there isn't a screen on the lower drain bolt. Repair and Owners manual have them. However, doesn't look like they are on the parts diagram online at KTMpowersports. Just wondering if you knew if they are supposed to have them, or you could use your influence to find the answer. So far two shops say they haven't been coming with the screens in them.
Overkill with saturating the oil filter. Plenty of oil on the moving parts. The internals are faaaar from dry and you run 0.0 risk on startup before that filter starts circulating oil. Just a heads up, been dropping dry filters in hundreds of ktm 4 strokes over 30 years(primarily race bikes) and ive never had an issue. Ever...
Ok, here is my trick to get the oil filter out if you don't have special pliers. A suction cup! Like one on the end of a kitchen scrub brush. Costs about $3.00! Works very well. Your welcome lol.
I'd add, if your bolts are getting buggered, and you have to use a 1/2 inch to get bite, best to replace them with new instead of putting rounded bolts back in.
the problem I find with your “just look at the level in the sight glass” is that oil gets trapped in the clutch discs and flows down very slowly, so when you see it reach half the glass you have probably already put too much f it. It fooled me several times…
Slavens suggests conventional, to seat the rings better, then on the 3rd change move to synthetic...I would like Mike's and Jay's opinion on this but never heard it.
If you put a oil bolt in you should tighten it straight away because you may forget and leave it a bit loose and it may fall out, also a bit of new oil on threads of bolts is a good idea, not dry threads, IMHO, awesome helpful video, thanks
On the side plug pickup screen, mine was fit tight in the cap. It came out with cap. I did remove it for cleaning. But it snapped back in the cap for installation. It "seemed" to be self aligning and seated well when I tighten the cap. Does this sound correct ? I am tempted to drain oil even though I just changed it so I can inspect the orientation.
Can you make a video on the oil pressure test ? Is there another way to verify oil pressure other than buying the KTM gauge an oil filter cover adapter ?
I installed the super cooler on my crf250R, which used to overheat from slow rides or idling, dropped my temps significantly, no longer losing coolant. Also used in conjunction with a new radiator cap, and some engine ice coolant. It’s probably worth the money if your bike runs hot or is overheating in some situations.
Wow that's a lot of metal coming out of that engine in only a couple of hours. Based on this test of oil coming out of new motorcycles it would be a good idea to change the oil as soon as you get the bike i.e. The factory oil is often contaminated with metal: th-cam.com/video/9GAUo8eUXeU/w-d-xo.html I do a regular oil analysis on my bike and oil drop test to measure wear. To reduce circulating particles I use a magnetic sump plug and a foam air filter. The magnetic sump plug also provides an indication of how much wear is occurring. The wear in my road/trail air cooled bikes is a fraction of that found in this trail bike despite 6,000 km oil changes. Ouch!!! :-)
Great video! Just one question, so I just did my first oil change on my bike and I didn't presoak the oil filter, could this cause any damage to the bike? I rode it for probably 5 minutes after changing the oil to get it all to circulate
@@TACOMOTOCO Also just one more question, my manual for my 2021 exc says to fill 1.2L and I can't find the 1.6 number anywhere, will this number vary from 450-500cc bikes? I currently just have 1.2L in mine right now
Absolutely no need to pre soak an oil filter. The entire engine is coated with oil internally and as long as there is oil in the sump when you start it you’re good. Don’t make it more complicated then it needs to be.
I quit using torque wrenches years ago, my hand is far superior. Last straw for me was tightening a bolt to “spec” and literally saying this sure feels way too tight and i thinks it’s about to strip but ill do what the manual says… then having it strip a few lbs short of “spec”
I have an 23 fe 501 takes 1.2q I may have accidentally added a little extra oil its reads a little high on the sight glass. Will that be a problem? the manual says nothing about extra oil.
What could happen if you filled oil up to the top of the window, like at the top of the red circle (not top of the complete window)? On other bikes there are two indicator lines on that window; one for the lowest volume, and another near the top of the window for the max volume to fill. On my KTM that red circle corresponds about that same proportions within the inspection window. I think you're OK filling oil to the top of that red circle in the window. Am I wrong?
The Manual says middle. The level varies greatly on the RFS KTM, from cold to full hot levels in the glass. It was a shock to me till i realzed it. The new doesn't vary as much.
@@uncletom1971 I don't see the new motors varying. So maybe middle is the "ideal". Should you siphon oil out if over that, I would if its always at the top but I want my engine to have ideal wear, conditions, etc. I wish I was smarter on this but I'm not engine builder.
@@tjlovesrachel Samples are still all well within spec. I don't notice any difference in shifting or engine noise with new or old oil. I had some high silica in my last sample and I believe it's from dirt intrusion from a bad fitted air filter. I need to put on some more hours to see what the next one looks like to tell for sure if anything is happening internally.
what you say 10hr or 50hr guy, your talking rebuilds not 10 or 50hr oil change intervals are you? just want to clarify. I run Maxima 10w50 and change oil about 12hrs just ride on the street with supermoto wheels
@@dlrmon1 This has been my experience. I was wondering if ktm is using some synthetic seals or something to prevent degradation when exposed to harsh solvents.
@davidchilton...that’s possible, still not a good habit...most vehicles do not have anything special. I do now that again “most all” carb and/or all brake cleaners warn you to avoid rubberized parts. Had to learn the hard way of coarse...lol
Don't think you should be following the recommended oil from a person who is using an old Japanese bike that is De-Tuned for reliability. 500cc engines that are newly designed put out 50-70 hp and require more maintenance compared to 1990s designed 250cc that puts out 20 hp or 650cc that puts out 40 hp they can't be compared maintenance wise.
Since you brought it up... let me say the quiet part out loud. Refrain from using Rotella in your bike engine. Seen too many blown top ends from bikes running Rotella. Just saying.
I have alot of friends using rotella in four wheelers, dirt bikes, and super bikes. No problems. The one guy is a retired tool die maker from GM. He's building bikes on the side. Said rotella is good stuff?
Rotella was not the reason those top ends blew up. I can guarantee that. There was a A or AA rider that only used rotella 15w40 I'm his 2017 husky 350 and ran it for almost 400 hours without doing anything to the engine(excluding valve shims). There is nothing wrong with using Rotella in a motorcycle.
I have been running T6 Rotella in all my bikes and never had an issue.... my 2003 1150 GSA is at 185k KM and doesn't burn a drop of oil on 10k Km oil change intervals. Obviously very different from the 501 husky I have, but just to add my 2 cents on Rotella. Thank you Mike, your videos are amazing and very appreciated.
Test new oil for particles. You will do never prefill filters again. Oil or fuel. Amazing how dirty new oil is. The 2 seconds less start run time without is nothing with a warm engine. "meets requirements of" or "recommended for use in" things used on oils I will avoid when I read them. Oils need those cert shields, auto, diesel, toys, doesn't matter.
@@TACOMOTOCO I don’t mean that in a mean way just that I didn’t expect all of those different components. You did an incredible job at explaining it all 👍🏼
You can re insert the long screen visually without a tool quite easily. There’s zero practical reason in reality aside from warm and fuzzies to pre soak the oil filter. All you’re doing is leading people on to your ‘expertise’, when it is by nobodies definition actually expertise. For instance, your preferred method of removing an oil filter is to hammer a pick through it for no reason. 🤦♂️
In a day and age where people go to the internet/TH-cam before opening their owners or repair manual, videos like this are very important. Taco Moto Co does an outstanding job with their video series, on top of all of their other endeavors, satisfying their customers worldwide and testing everything they sell. I don’t know many people who’d want to potentially damage their $10,000 European dirt bike. Even with my background in decades of automotive, reading my owners and repair manuals, I still look to these videos for insight.
Plenty of five minute videos out there if that's what you're looking for. Mike's approach is more like the old saying about giving a man a fish, he eats for a day, teach him to fish and he eats for a lifetime. He takes his time and explains the "why" as supposed to just the "how" and as a business owner I'm sure this approach has gained him a lot of loyal customers, myself included. Enjoy the cat videos and come back when you are ready to learn, and if you already know what he is talking about then maybe add something to help others out instead of being rude. This sport has no need for people like that.
Never never never use 1/2” on metric 13mm or any imperial on metric ....very very bad advice to anyone watching .... I won’t watch anymore after hearing that byeeee ✋
@@TACOMOTOCO Yeah, it’s called comprehension. Anyone that actually has wrenching experience would have already known that ½“ is roughly the equivalent to 13mm. It is not out of line to reasonably suggest using a ½” socket or spanner on a slightly rounded 13mm metric head. Publishing informative videos “is like a box of chocolates” you don’t know who is going to watch.
sumporfuk Common sense has nothing to do with it, it’s metric and not imperial simple as that. If you haven’t got the correct tool don’t try use it on it-simple get the right tool. I have had lots bikes/ cars with people rounding off bolts and heads of fasteners simply because they are too lazy or stupid to use the correct tool.
Took me 3 days to change my oil. Engine removal was a bitch.
#thehardwayisalwaysthebestway
lolol
😂😂😂
Best laugh I’ve had all day. Thank you!
Great info thanks! I knew I was doing something wrong with my oil changes I need to remove the engine first. Access to bolts appears much easier!
We pull the motor to change the air filter. Too much effort?🤷🏼♀️
Dude I have learned so much about my bike watching your videos. Thank you
Mike, I'm going to dub you the "Professor of the 500". You explain in all of your videos so completely. Thanks for all you do!
Mike you are the ultimate in ktm knowledge and how to. Very much appreciated the video as always. I use a magnetic pen to pull out the filter.
Great video. Started running rotella t4 on my 300 ktm after 100 hours. It feels better, shifts cleaner and oil change at 25 hours look cleaner than the motorex, less goo. I’ll continue using it on my new 2023 when I get it. I do trust shell to MA certify, I mean they’re one of the biggest oil companies in the world with a massive engineering dept - if you can’t trust their label we’re screwed.
I have bought 3 new bikes over the years, '15 xcw , 18 xc. 22 xc and numerous older bikes, all Rotella T4 , changed often with no problems.
Your right on track with your analysis of oils. Both Shell Rotella and Mobile Delvac are refined to a higher degree than other motor oils due to requests long ago by the trucking industry to manufacture an oil to endure longer oil change intervals. OTR trucks can go well over the 5-7k intervals in cars and light trucks. It possesses a strong film strength and is more resistant to thermal breakdown. I’m not sure a motorcycle clutch would require an oil with strong film strength. Also it may well be money pitched out the door as most riders will change oil at 500-3000 miles. Cheap oil works, it’s less refined and it’s user will experience varnish in time. I used Motul for a bit then switched back to Phillip 66 x/c Aviation 25-w60. I know it expensive and overkill but I figured if it’s good for a radial aircraft engine with all the shearing metal components from run in to end of service life it should be fine for a bike.
My new favorite channel! Thanks for posting
Already commented on my other Acct. , but the haters got me riled up so I figured I say thanks one more time. Keep up the good work work Mike, we appreciate it. Braaap
Use a 6 point socket and they won't get rounded off, plus you should never apply that kind of force. Listen to Mike, he's giving great advise
Another great video Mike, looking forward to this series! Thanks for taking the time my man.
I was like damn a 33 minute video on a oil change I have done dozens of times. Then I said but it’s by Taco
Mike I have to watch it!
Thank you for displaying the oil bypass ball. I did exactly what you talked about, removed the wrong drainplug. But now I know it is just to put back the ball with the spring and tight the bolt again. 😁
Always hitting us with the awesome vids. Thanks Mike!
Appreciate you taking the time to make these videos and share your knowledge. Thanks!
Gr8 stuff! Guess ROTELLA is out! Thanks a million!👍
You can anneal that copper washer with a torch.. a few seconds on each side and re-use it indefinitely or just do it prior to re-use-
Great info for me being new to the 500exc...I would recommend using a solvent in place of most Carburetor Cleaners on rubber parts...
Or hot water in the sink and blow dry them.
Very interesting information on JASO tested oil. I would imagine JASO charges big money to test oil therefore shell doesn't want to pay it. I know monopolies within the testing industry are extremely prevalent.
Hahaha, 15:38 is one of our favorite tools! Wonder if that was me talking about those? :-D
Another Tip: Buy one of the billet metal Oil Fill caps. Over time those plastic ones get boggered up and can potential cross thread. The billet ones have a better fitment, and can be secured with a wrench. They run about 20$
Taco Moto sells a new billet tool-less oil filler cap
"Saved" for future reference. Thanks Taco Mike!
Are you planning a "How to" rebuild series (top end at least) with this engine?
That would be an outstanding video.
Yes
Great video, thanks for taking the time to go over everything and show it in detail…can’t wait to remove my engine!!!
:)
Awesome video! Thanks for taking the time!
Thank you , I really value your videos. Also, thank you for the links and the part numbers. I’m running a 2013 KTM 500 EXC. This weekend I was distracted during the oil change and I ended up pulling the oil pump cover off because I mistook it for the oil filter cover.... duh.
On my RFS I would pour oil on the inside of the filter and turn it until the outside was soaked.... then insert it. Works well and the RFS had two filters.
Changed the oil in mine for the first time a week ago. Followed the steps in the Owner's Manual. Does it matter the order in which you remove the plugs? I'd rather much remove the plug under the engine first. I made a huge mess accidentally pulling out one of the side plugs first. I'll be more prepared next time.
Great information and tips as the title suggests.
Very good explanation. Well Done
Good overview, a must watch for new owners of the KTM line.
To clarify, Shell does have oils that are indeed MA rated. They are submitted under Red and Yellow co.
However, Rotella is not one of those listed.
The fact that Shell does have JASO MA rated oils but Rotella isn’t one of those leaves me skeptical about Shells claim that Rotella meets the JASO MA specs.
If you can find it on this list it’s approved.
Otherwise 🤷🏼♀️
JASO master approval list
www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV_LIST.pdf
@@TACOMOTOCO exactly. If it's listed, g2g. If it's not listed, you're making other assumptions.
@@TACOMOTOCO here's one M081RAY003 SHELL Advance Ultra 15-50. Shell offers this oil which is MA2 certified.
The book for the 21 500excf says 1200cc or 1.3 quarts of oil is the capacity. I found this to be a bit low so the Taco man sight visual on the glass sounds like a good idea at least until you know exactly what you should put in there.
In my experience lower grade oils tend to have less detergent in them and lacquer builds up in rocker covers and tends to sludge more than quality oils.
I have used mobil 1 on my 1989 XR 600 in Aus for last 20 years land still running original clutch plates. Over 10,000 miles (16,000 KMs)
Me to- xt & xr 600 15/40 & 20/50, whatevers on special wether for car or diesel engine's & no problems in 20 years.
Thanks for posting- good info
Great video. Just like to add carb and brake cleaner can be hard on o-rings. I’d recommend contact cleaner to use in place if you happen to have it handy.
My ktm dealer said he likes to fill the oil alittle over half on the big bore bikes what do you think mike nice video I watch them all.and trust everything you say about bikes anyway lol 👍👍🏍🏍🏍🏍
If you've got an engine with a hydraulic cam chain tensioner, oil choice can have an impact on startup and idle noise levels. Clutch and shifting too. I agree though, oil choice has very little impact on the lifespan of engine components.
Could you guys do a video on how to replace the faulty oil pump gear on the 250/350 exc-f.
Amazing video as usual. Are you guys usually running "watter wetter" or "engine ice" type coolants in your EXCF's? and XCW?
I'd like to know too
Great video! The info in all your videos are very helpful. Just picked up a 2024 KTM 500 EXC-F doing the one hour oil change there isn't a screen on the lower drain bolt. Repair and Owners manual have them. However, doesn't look like they are on the parts diagram online at KTMpowersports. Just wondering if you knew if they are supposed to have them, or you could use your influence to find the answer. So far two shops say they haven't been coming with the screens in them.
Appreciate all the knowledge!
Great info. Penton is what you meant I do believe, not Peyton?
Yes, John Penton was who I meant to say 🤪
I’ve made paper funnels for years ✌🏼
Overkill with saturating the oil filter. Plenty of oil on the moving parts. The internals are faaaar from dry and you run 0.0 risk on startup before that filter starts circulating oil. Just a heads up, been dropping dry filters in hundreds of ktm 4 strokes over 30 years(primarily race bikes) and ive never had an issue. Ever...
Ok, here is my trick to get the oil filter out if you don't have special pliers. A suction cup! Like one on the end of a kitchen scrub brush. Costs about $3.00! Works very well. Your welcome lol.
I fill the oil to the hole in the oilfilter before i put it in the motor. Easy with small oil spill :)
I'd add, if your bolts are getting buggered, and you have to use a 1/2 inch to get bite, best to replace them with new instead of putting rounded bolts back in.
Obviously
@@TACOMOTOCO you would hope. Good vid!
the problem I find with your “just look at the level in the sight glass” is that oil gets trapped in the clutch discs and flows down very slowly, so when you see it reach half the glass you have probably already put too much f it. It fooled me several times…
Good easy instructions
Oil filter change use the tip on side technique.. moe beta ;)
Awesome channel btw
Was it Penton you were taking about using the Spectro oils? Sounded like you said Payton.
Yes, I misspoke.
John Penton was who I was meaning to refer to. I corrected that in the notes
Pretty good stuff!
What oil should be used after the first (1hour) oil change? Full synthetic?
Great video!!
Slavens suggests conventional, to seat the rings better, then on the 3rd change move to synthetic...I would like Mike's and Jay's opinion on this but never heard it.
We will often run another hour on Maxima break in oil or a conventional 30w then switch to your oil of choice for the life of the bike
@@TACOMOTOCO thanks for the follow up. I’m about to get a 23 500exc and was wondering about break in.
Learned a lot in this video! Is there still plans for the dohc 250/350 bikes?
How do you feel about the stainless oil filters?
If you put a oil bolt in you should tighten it straight away because you may forget and leave it a bit loose and it may fall out, also a bit of new oil on threads of bolts is a good idea, not dry threads, IMHO, awesome helpful video, thanks
One aircraft mechanic commented on another video how dry and wet torque specs are different, by as much as 40% for aircraft engine torque settings.
Good info on that oil pressure check valve under the engine...that looks like a drain plug ! 😟
Literally watching this video because I took it apart ..."my God why is there a ball bearing falling out of my motor" thought I was toast
@@truenorthenduro can you imagine how many KTM owners over the years thought the same thing!!
On the side plug pickup screen, mine was fit tight in the cap. It came out with cap. I did remove it for cleaning. But it snapped back in the cap for installation. It "seemed" to be self aligning and seated well when I tighten the cap. Does this sound correct ?
I am tempted to drain oil even though I just changed it so I can inspect the orientation.
We’ve found our little procedure to be very reliable and foolproof
Would there be any reason why the spring and ball wouldn't come out?
You say it takes 1.6 but the ktm oil change kit comes with 1.2?
Is the copperwasher to oil pump in a exactly like 0.20mm that if it inpackt and smaler you increase the pressure to spring?
Can you make a video on the oil pressure test ? Is there another way to verify oil pressure other than buying the KTM gauge an oil filter cover adapter ?
good stuff
Hey Mike! Did you do a 250 video? Thanks
I see you have motorex 10/60 there, have you found it's better than a 10/40 or 10/50 in ktm 4 strokes?
I see you have your water pump cover off. What’s your opinion on the boysen supercooler water pump upgrade for a 500 EXC-f?
I installed the super cooler on my crf250R, which used to overheat from slow rides or idling, dropped my temps significantly, no longer losing coolant. Also used in conjunction with a new radiator cap, and some engine ice coolant. It’s probably worth the money if your bike runs hot or is overheating in some situations.
Sweet😮
Wow that's a lot of metal coming out of that engine in only a couple of hours.
Based on this test of oil coming out of new motorcycles it would be a good idea to change the oil as soon as you get the bike i.e. The factory oil is often contaminated with metal:
th-cam.com/video/9GAUo8eUXeU/w-d-xo.html
I do a regular oil analysis on my bike and oil drop test to measure wear.
To reduce circulating particles I use a magnetic sump plug and a foam air filter.
The magnetic sump plug also provides an indication of how much wear is occurring.
The wear in my road/trail air cooled bikes is a fraction of that found in this trail bike despite 6,000 km oil changes.
Ouch!!!
:-)
Nothing better than ROTELLA T4....even factory ride used it...
Any reason why you pull the engine screen last?
Great video! Just one question, so I just did my first oil change on my bike and I didn't presoak the oil filter, could this cause any damage to the bike? I rode it for probably 5 minutes after changing the oil to get it all to circulate
no worries, but next time you'd be wise to pre soak or half fill the chamber.
@@TACOMOTOCO Thank you for the reply! definitely will do that next time.
@@TACOMOTOCO Also just one more question, my manual for my 2021 exc says to fill 1.2L and I can't find the 1.6 number anywhere, will this number vary from 450-500cc bikes? I currently just have 1.2L in mine right now
Absolutely no need to pre soak an oil filter. The entire engine is coated with oil internally and as long as there is oil in the sump when you start it you’re good. Don’t make it more complicated then it needs to be.
@@Big_Yum note that we don’t fill our bikes to a specified ‘beaker measured’ amount. Rather we use the sight glass method
Great video! Do you recommend the Motul 7100 in 10w50 for a ‘13 500exc as well or stick with 15w50? Thanks
www.penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Viscosity/237/what-is-an-sae-viscosity/180
Do you sell oil change kits ?
I quit using torque wrenches years ago, my hand is far superior. Last straw for me was tightening a bolt to “spec” and literally saying this sure feels way too tight and i thinks it’s about to strip but ill do what the manual says… then having it strip a few lbs short of “spec”
I stopped using wenches years ago. My hand is far superior …LOL.
I have an 23 fe 501 takes 1.2q I may have accidentally added a little extra oil its reads a little high on the sight glass. Will that be a problem? the manual says nothing about extra oil.
A few ounces extra are not a problem
While the whole video is great I am most impressed that you found a set of gloves. They seem to be permanently missing.
What could happen if you filled oil up to the top of the window, like at the top of the red circle (not top of the complete window)? On other bikes there are two indicator lines on that window; one for the lowest volume, and another near the top of the window for the max volume to fill. On my KTM that red circle corresponds about that same proportions within the inspection window. I think you're OK filling oil to the top of that red circle in the window. Am I wrong?
The Manual says middle. The level varies greatly on the RFS KTM, from cold to full hot levels in the glass. It was a shock to me till i realzed it. The new doesn't vary as much.
@@dirtrider9268 So, the middle is in reality the maximum and the minimum at the same time. There is no tolerance?
@@uncletom1971 I don't see the new motors varying. So maybe middle is the "ideal". Should you siphon oil out if over that, I would if its always at the top but I want my engine to have ideal wear, conditions, etc. I wish I was smarter on this but I'm not engine builder.
50 hours? whoa....slow riding means hot engine.
I am currently doing 30 hour changes riding hard. Oil samples done since day one with Motorex
@@k5kingg11 how are the oil samples coming back?? And do you notice like hard/notchy shifting with oil that old?
@@tjlovesrachel Samples are still all well within spec. I don't notice any difference in shifting or engine noise with new or old oil. I had some high silica in my last sample and I believe it's from dirt intrusion from a bad fitted air filter. I need to put on some more hours to see what the next one looks like to tell for sure if anything is happening internally.
@@k5kingg11 thank you for that info that’s good news. The maintenance schedule has been scaring me about purchasing a KTM 500.
what you say 10hr or 50hr guy, your talking rebuilds not 10 or 50hr oil change intervals are you? just want to clarify. I run Maxima 10w50 and change oil about 12hrs just ride on the street with supermoto wheels
What would happend if i forgot to prefill the oilfilter one time? 🙈
Nothing
Don’t agree with flipping around a crush washer…
Those bolts do not look OEM -- what bolts are those holding the stator case cover and oil filter cap on?
Probably spec bolt kit or a BOLT kit
Does brake cleaner degrade the o-ring seals?
Shouldn’t be a problem
Brake cleaners and most carb cleaners degrade rubber...if you use it ...do it quick, don’t let it soak in.
@@dlrmon1 This has been my experience. I was wondering if ktm is using some synthetic seals or something to prevent degradation when exposed to harsh solvents.
@davidchilton...that’s possible, still not a good habit...most vehicles do not have anything special. I do now that again “most all” carb and/or all brake cleaners warn you to avoid rubberized parts. Had to learn the hard way of coarse...lol
@@dlrmon1 Do you recommend alcohol or some other mild solvent to use when cleaning around rubber parts that you are not planning to replace?
Don't think you should be following the recommended oil from a person who is using an old Japanese bike that is De-Tuned for reliability. 500cc engines that are newly designed put out 50-70 hp and require more maintenance compared to 1990s designed 250cc that puts out 20 hp or 650cc that puts out 40 hp they can't be compared maintenance wise.
Huh?
Penton, not Payton
Its PENTON not PAYTON
Lesson learnt... Order a torque wrench
👍
Wow. Ktm has overly complicated this process.
LOL, remove a filter and pull two screens is complicated?
@@teamagoge-theenduroists8683 lol
Penton not Peyton🤣
Thanks 🤣
Since you brought it up... let me say the quiet part out loud. Refrain from using Rotella in your bike engine. Seen too many blown top ends from bikes running Rotella. Just saying.
I’m not sure I’ve seen that myself but I’m willing to trust your experiences
That seems highly unlikely
I have alot of friends using rotella in four wheelers, dirt bikes, and super bikes. No problems. The one guy is a retired tool die maker from GM. He's building bikes on the side. Said rotella is good stuff?
Rotella was not the reason those top ends blew up. I can guarantee that. There was a A or AA rider that only used rotella 15w40 I'm his 2017 husky 350 and ran it for almost 400 hours without doing anything to the engine(excluding valve shims). There is nothing wrong with using Rotella in a motorcycle.
I have been running T6 Rotella in all my bikes and never had an issue.... my 2003 1150 GSA is at 185k KM and doesn't burn a drop of oil on 10k Km oil change intervals. Obviously very different from the 501 husky I have, but just to add my 2 cents on Rotella. Thank you Mike, your videos are amazing and very appreciated.
How many times can a guy say boogered or boogers in one video!
Test new oil for particles. You will do never prefill filters again. Oil or fuel. Amazing how dirty new oil is. The 2 seconds less start run time without is nothing with a warm engine. "meets requirements of" or "recommended for use in" things used on oils I will avoid when I read them. Oils need those cert shields, auto, diesel, toys, doesn't matter.
Interesting point, even more interesting is the fact no one responded to your point…
Penton
This is the most overly complicated oil change I have ever seen
Thanks for watching our channel
@@TACOMOTOCO I don’t mean that in a mean way just that I didn’t expect all of those different components. You did an incredible job at explaining it all 👍🏼
Leave it to the Europeans to over complicate everything right!
You can re insert the long screen visually without a tool quite easily. There’s zero practical reason in reality aside from warm and fuzzies to pre soak the oil filter. All you’re doing is leading people on to your ‘expertise’, when it is by nobodies definition actually expertise. For instance, your preferred method of removing an oil filter is to hammer a pick through it for no reason. 🤦♂️
What oil are you using?? Or is it a racing riders engine? Hahahaha its looks COOKED for 1 hr
...more than thirty minutes to explain something that you could have done in five minutes....so booooring!!
Watch cat videos if you want to be entertained.
Watch our videos if you want to learn something
For those of us born not knowing everything like paolo here thanks for the informative videos. I love the technicality of it!
In a day and age where people go to the internet/TH-cam before opening their owners or repair manual, videos like this are very important. Taco Moto Co does an outstanding job with their video series, on top of all of their other endeavors, satisfying their customers worldwide and testing everything they sell. I don’t know many people who’d want to potentially damage their $10,000 European dirt bike. Even with my background in decades of automotive, reading my owners and repair manuals, I still look to these videos for insight.
Plenty of five minute videos out there if that's what you're looking for. Mike's approach is more like the old saying about giving a man a fish, he eats for a day, teach him to fish and he eats for a lifetime. He takes his time and explains the "why" as supposed to just the "how" and as a business owner I'm sure this approach has gained him a lot of loyal customers, myself included. Enjoy the cat videos and come back when you are ready to learn, and if you already know what he is talking about then maybe add something to help others out instead of being rude. This sport has no need for people like that.
Never never never use 1/2” on metric 13mm or any imperial on metric ....very very bad advice to anyone watching .... I won’t watch anymore after hearing that byeeee ✋
Hello, I think 🤔 it was said while using a grain of common sense, but common sense ain’t to common
As with any suggestion, listening *carefully* to what was said will unlock to reason it was brought up
@@TACOMOTOCO Yeah, it’s called comprehension. Anyone that actually has wrenching experience would have already known that ½“ is roughly the equivalent to 13mm. It is not out of line to reasonably suggest using a ½” socket or spanner on a slightly rounded 13mm metric head. Publishing informative videos “is like a box of chocolates” you don’t know who is going to watch.
sumporfuk
Yeh it’s called “butchering” as you would be 👎
sumporfuk
Common sense has nothing to do with it, it’s metric and not imperial simple as that. If you haven’t got the correct tool don’t try use it on it-simple get the right tool. I have had lots bikes/ cars with people rounding off bolts and heads of fasteners simply because they are too lazy or stupid to use the correct tool.