Easiest way to clean the heads and covers- soak them in vinegar and water overnight or a bit longer if you can, spray them with fresh water with a garden hoses at the highest pressure you can and while the salt and sand are still wet hit it with a dremel tool or some type of soft wire brush(brass ideally) and keep hitting them with water to clean them and don’t let the salt dry up until you’re satisfied with the cleanliness of the heads and covers. Nice video and easy to understand. 👍
Great video. I have a Zuke 2 stroke 1998 200. Previous owner same issue. Did exact same thing as you. Suggest using saltaway to soak parts and hook up on the muffs. Stuff worked great on mine.
Wouldn't that also melt the rubber impeller to run without water going thru the water pump?? Also, I always rinsed my 2 stroke until thermostat opened and it still clogged up...I think it was actually hard water deposits...it was like rock,especially around bottom cylinder..
Just did this with my 1998 Yamaha 150 two stroke. Only broke 5 bolts taking off the water jacket. No real biggie. Just put them on a drill press with cobalt bits and retapped to 5/16 standard. Order the poppet valve yesterday, its on the way. Hopefully this fixes my overheating problem as I've already done the usual of replacing the impeller, thermostats etc.
Impressive with the retapping . I’m sure this will work since you already did the thermostats and impeller. It’s the only other thing. If water is freely circulating engine should cool. Enjoy your time on the water
@@arnoldtrevilla Only thing is, when I was drilling for the retap, I went too deep and accidentally drilled one of the holes into the cylinder head cavity, LoL! I took some JB Weld Steel Stick and plugged the hole with it. Dunno if its going to hold, but, you know what they say...If at first you don't succeed, so much for skydiving. I put the head back on and cranked the engine after letting it sit for 24 hours. Didn't sound any different. I'm going to take the head back off today just to check repair.
Hi, were the lower cylinder head bolts easy to torque with a torque wrench or were torqued with a simple wrench. Asking this as sometimes will need to remove the entire powerhead from its base to do so properly. Will need to buy a new base gasket. There are many water jackets under the powerhead that will need to be cleaned for all jackets to be free from saltlayers or crusts and motor cooling at high speed as when factory delivered..
Sea Rider yes they were easy to torque. Probably could have gotten away with a simple wrench but I can tell you that I don’t have any leaks and I used a torque wrench and torqued to specifications
Thanks Arnold, my boating mate has a 2 stroke Yam 85 HP motor, has been eventually flushed with fresh water after its use. The motor is triggering the overheat loud audible warning. Told him that his motor needs a proper wather path cleaning as seen in your nice video, but he's reluctant to do so. At least will convince him to let me remove the thermostat and have an interior look which hope that should scare him. LOL!!
Hello. I have same problem with my ox66. I took al 14 bolt out. But now i cant take head out. Its not coming loose. Any idea how should i take head out.
If you took the bolts out the only thing holding the heads in is the buildup so use a flat head screw driver to pry the heads loose but be careful and go to one corner then another corner then the side and gingerly work it loose . Sorry for late reply just saw this .
Did you use the same method to clean the part of the heads that weren't removable, if not what was the best method for cleaning these areas? Also, what gasket sealer did you use?
Craig Diaz hey honestly I didn't think I would get many responses to this video so never looked till right now . I didn't disassemble anything but the water jacket and head cover that's all that's necessary to cool the engine other than the impeller and lower unit which didn't need servicing
my latest question up top is the same here - how did clean the head pieces that you did NOT remove - those look immaculate. some sort of sanding drill bit?
Jon Smirles you have to use the ears bc I learned by removing the heads and the water jacket that the water never comes reaches the thermostats unless you flush from the bottom as well as from the top
Engines used on salt water should have their exhaust chamber, crankcase and head water paths undergo a mechanical salt revoval by hand each 300 worked hours. Install new gaskets, clean or change thermo if needed. Flushing the engine with fresh water soon after returning from boating will not keep water paths from collecting salt layers as have found out... To clean heads submerge them in pure vinegar for some hours, then mechanically remove salt layers with a sushi wooden stick, using a mtelal tool will contribute to scratch internal parts that will begin collecting salt faster. To clean crankcase, exhaust water paths spray vinegar inside water paths, let soak, remove salt with the sushi wooden stick. A SS Dremel brush is fantastic to scrape off salt formations wherever possible to access it. New gaskets should be torqued to specs and soon after max 10 worked hours of use has elapsed should be retorqued back to specs for a second time. New gaskets tends to compress a bit and cede with heat and lose the torque adjustment that were initially torqued to. Check it for yourself if you're not a big fan about retorquing new gaskets back to specs..
Sea Rider awesome commentary. Thank you so much . So Every 300 hundred hours ? That makes sense for older engines but how about newer engines ? I can’t imagine that you would have to do this for a 2014 Yamaha for instance . Or does it matter ? Thanks again for the comment
Thanks Arnold, engines used on salt water no matter if flushed soon afterwords with fresh water for as long as you like whether on muffs, barrel will need to go that route. To understand, with hundreds of ON warming cycles, OFF cooling cycles the internal water passages that are not that smooth will tend to collect salt layers one on top of the other. With time will narrow water passages and engine not work well as when new or have overheating issues as the post which is the worse nightmare to happen. I usually tear all my powerheads at each 500 worked hours as happen to count with an induction hour/tach meter and do constant boating all yer round. Still you'll be amazed at how much internal salt can be collected at 300 worked hours. My boating Club members says I'm a nutty boater by doing that, but when they see the amount of salt collected give me reason for doing that. You could have a exterior mint powerhead, but that doesn't say much about the internal condition. If with time and like on line reading will invite you to read this huge experiment done on my outboards. Starts post 120 all the way to 149. Will have a better overall view of what goes on inside any engine internals that deals with salt water on constant boating basis. There are a lot of nice pics, tips, invented cheap tools, etc. This is pure cheap maintenance way to go... forums.iboats.com/forum/general-boating-outdoors-activities/inflatables-and-ribs/593663-i-swear/page8
Hey if you took the lower off how did it come off did you have to disconnect the shift shaft by the power head or is it just splines on the lower unit ?
chris economides I didn’t take the lower unit off. My mechanic did when we thought it was the impeller . I just took the head and worked on the water jacket or water passages
*_Are this model equivalent to yamaha 2 stroke 200 V6, My problem with overheating (alarm on) when engine running for 20-30 minutes its only happen when engine running in free gear, never occurs while gears on and speeding_*
Martin Prado the water jacket which is what I removed is where all the deposits form bc it cools the power head and the passages are narrow. That's what causes the heating. If there were deposits somewhere else I didn't see them and they didn't contribute to the over heating problem. Sorry for the late response . I don't get notified when I get a comment . I need to change that on my settings
thanks Arnold! you are spot on with the brush i actually attempted this prior to your reply and yes works like a champ - so others whom read do this! Also as a heads up to those whom read as well. I had a chronic over heat issue. after a battery of tests I realized the full water pump housing needed replacing. there is a metal plate that is the base (mine was totally warped after 17 years of salt water use) took back breaking work to remove it. once i replaced it and all gaskets I get incredible water pressure and can now run WOT w 0 issues. so food for thought for those experiencing these issues.
Next time you take the heads off and clean out the crap do a proper job and soda blast the water ways then give them a coat of primer. this will help stop the galleys corroding.. obviously wont do much good if you dont rinse the motor properly in the first place... if anyone here reading this is too mean to buy a product like salt away, then use a strong toilet cleaner then give a realy good rinse afterwards. toilet cleaner will eat at the salts and crud.... this motor is a prime example of neglect and was only just caught in time.. ... could of been a very expensive lesson, but they caught this just in time.. nice to see they painted the outside of the heads, shame they did not do the galleys too... but good video to show what can happen if you dont rinse good
I bought the engine as a rebuilt engine a couple years before this happened. so someone had it long before I did. But still I should have flushed it on both ends . I do now
Honestly....The ear muffs are okay...But if you really want to flush out your outboard good....Put it in a garbage can...with water and Dawn soap...and run that bitch for a while. Let that water heat up and make sure you keep the can topped off. All that crud in that motor will come out.. You won't get that with just the muffs.
th-cam.com/video/e9Lyc27Q7BA/w-d-xo.html i created a video without music and its more to the point. This is the second time i do this. No over heating afterwards. This process works everytime for overhearing issues
Youssef Lahbil i purchased the engine as a rebuilt engine which had been submerged . I had the engine for a year and a half maybe two years and it ran fine until this happened .
Easiest way to clean the heads and covers- soak them in vinegar and water overnight or a bit longer if you can, spray them with fresh water with a garden hoses at the highest pressure you can and while the salt and sand are still wet hit it with a dremel tool or some type of soft wire brush(brass ideally) and keep hitting them with water to clean them and don’t let the salt dry up until you’re satisfied with the cleanliness of the heads and covers. Nice video and easy to understand. 👍
th-cam.com/video/e9Lyc27Q7BA/w-d-xo.html thanks. By the way i just created another video minus the music
Geeze!!! Turn off the music.
Great music. I’m pretty sure what you’re saying is what I needed to hear though
Great video. I have a Zuke 2 stroke 1998 200. Previous owner same issue. Did exact same thing as you. Suggest using saltaway to soak parts and hook up on the muffs. Stuff worked great on mine.
Thanks for the video. I’m about to clean mine out on a 1997 Yamaha 200
Cameron Ater hope it helps . Sorry for the music if I had to redo the video I wouldn’t add any music. Good luck
Happens when you rinse with the muffs also. First hand experience... Running great now, not that hard to resolve. Dealer told be the engine was done!
I have same boat, same color only motor year is 2003.nice video.thank you
Wouldn't that also melt the rubber impeller to run without water going thru the water pump?? Also, I always rinsed my 2 stroke until thermostat opened and it still clogged up...I think it was actually hard water deposits...it was like rock,especially around bottom cylinder..
Great info captain
Just did this with my 1998 Yamaha 150 two stroke. Only broke 5 bolts taking off the water jacket. No real biggie. Just put them on a drill press with cobalt bits and retapped to 5/16 standard. Order the poppet valve yesterday, its on the way. Hopefully this fixes my overheating problem as I've already done the usual of replacing the impeller, thermostats etc.
Impressive with the retapping . I’m sure this will work since you already did the thermostats and impeller. It’s the only other thing. If water is freely circulating engine should cool. Enjoy your time on the water
@@arnoldtrevilla Only thing is, when I was drilling for the retap, I went too deep and accidentally drilled one of the holes into the cylinder head cavity, LoL! I took some JB Weld Steel Stick and plugged the hole with it. Dunno if its going to hold, but, you know what they say...If at first you don't succeed, so much for skydiving. I put the head back on and cranked the engine after letting it sit for 24 hours. Didn't sound any different. I'm going to take the head back off today just to check repair.
Fantastic video, mate. I learnt a couple of things from this video. I hope you have fun on the water. Cheers!
Hi, were the lower cylinder head bolts easy to torque with a torque wrench or were torqued with a simple wrench. Asking this as sometimes will need to remove the entire powerhead from its base to do so properly. Will need to buy a new base gasket. There are many water jackets under the powerhead that will need to be cleaned for all jackets to be free from saltlayers or crusts and motor cooling at high speed as when factory delivered..
Sea Rider yes they were easy to torque. Probably could have gotten away with a simple wrench but I can tell you that I don’t have any leaks and I used a torque wrench and torqued to specifications
Thanks Arnold, my boating mate has a 2 stroke Yam 85 HP motor, has been eventually flushed with fresh water after its use. The motor is triggering the overheat loud audible warning. Told him that his motor needs a proper wather path cleaning as seen in your nice video, but he's reluctant to do so. At least will convince him to let me remove the thermostat and have an interior look which hope that should scare him. LOL!!
I used socket wrench until right then a 1/4 turn or less to torque.
Hello, is it possible to remove a thermo without damaging the thermo gasket on a Yam motor, or will usually break in pieces ?
Excellent video. Thanks.
Thank you
Hello. I have same problem with my ox66. I took al 14 bolt out. But now i cant take head out. Its not coming loose. Any idea how should i take head out.
If you took the bolts out the only thing holding the heads in is the buildup so use a flat head screw driver to pry the heads loose but be careful and go to one corner then another corner then the side and gingerly work it loose . Sorry for late reply just saw this .
Did you use the same method to clean the part of the heads that weren't removable, if not what was the best method for cleaning these areas? Also, what gasket sealer did you use?
Craig Diaz hey honestly I didn't think I would get many responses to this video so never looked till right now . I didn't disassemble anything but the water jacket and head cover that's all that's necessary to cool the engine other than the impeller and lower unit which didn't need servicing
my latest question up top is the same here - how did clean the head pieces that you did NOT remove - those look immaculate. some sort of sanding drill bit?
just used a real small wire wheel on my drill
Where did you learn that you have to use the ears to flush the engine? I'm having overheating issues at very low rpm in gear.
Jon Smirles you have to use the ears bc I learned by removing the heads and the water jacket that the water never comes reaches the thermostats unless you flush from the bottom as well as from the top
Oh boy, Yamaha would win a salt producer award for its outboards.....
Osborne Bay sure would .
What up with the music trying to listen but is so distracting.
I wish it was porn dialogue instead of Katy Perry that loud. It would be easier to explain to my wife. Lmao
Hahaha
I watch the video to listen to the person working on something,so turn music off
Engines used on salt water should have their exhaust chamber, crankcase and head water paths undergo a mechanical salt revoval by hand each 300 worked hours. Install new gaskets, clean or change thermo if needed. Flushing the engine with fresh water soon after returning from boating will not keep water paths from collecting salt layers as have found out...
To clean heads submerge them in pure vinegar for some hours, then mechanically remove salt layers with a sushi wooden stick, using a mtelal tool will contribute to scratch internal parts that will begin collecting salt faster. To clean crankcase, exhaust water paths spray vinegar inside water paths, let soak, remove salt with the sushi wooden stick. A SS Dremel brush is fantastic to scrape off salt formations wherever possible to access it.
New gaskets should be torqued to specs and soon after max 10 worked hours of use has elapsed should be retorqued back to specs for a second time. New gaskets tends to compress a bit and cede with heat and lose the torque adjustment that were initially torqued to. Check it for yourself if you're not a big fan about retorquing new gaskets back to specs..
Sea Rider awesome commentary. Thank you so much . So Every 300 hundred hours ? That makes sense for older engines but how about newer engines ? I can’t imagine that you would have to do this for a 2014 Yamaha for instance . Or does it matter ?
Thanks again for the comment
Thanks Arnold, engines used on salt water no matter if flushed soon afterwords with fresh water for as long as you like whether on muffs, barrel will need to go that route. To understand, with hundreds of ON warming cycles, OFF cooling cycles the internal water passages that are not that smooth will tend to collect salt layers one on top of the other. With time will narrow water passages and engine not work well as when new or have overheating issues as the post which is the worse nightmare to happen.
I usually tear all my powerheads at each 500 worked hours as happen to count with an induction hour/tach meter and do constant boating all yer round. Still you'll be amazed at how much internal salt can be collected at 300 worked hours. My boating Club members says I'm a nutty boater by doing that, but when they see the amount of salt collected give me reason for doing that. You could have a exterior mint powerhead, but that doesn't say much about the internal condition.
If with time and like on line reading will invite you to read this huge experiment done on my outboards. Starts post 120 all the way to 149. Will have a better overall view of what goes on inside any engine internals that deals with salt water on constant boating basis. There are a lot of nice pics, tips, invented cheap tools, etc. This is pure cheap maintenance way to go...
forums.iboats.com/forum/general-boating-outdoors-activities/inflatables-and-ribs/593663-i-swear/page8
Hey if you took the lower off how did it come off did you have to disconnect the shift shaft by the power head or is it just splines on the lower unit ?
chris economides I didn’t take the lower unit off. My mechanic did when we thought it was the impeller . I just took the head and worked on the water jacket or water passages
Your pops is a cool dude.
Chunky Father thanks he’s awesome . He’s like my second dad
*_Are this model equivalent to yamaha 2 stroke 200 V6, My problem with overheating (alarm on) when engine running for 20-30 minutes its only happen when engine running in free gear, never occurs while gears on and speeding_*
If you can run at full speed with no alarm this is probably not your issue
Did u still have strong water flow out of telltale?
Yes I did
Aquasport???
Marine Diving Service yes sir
Salt water motor?
hey sorry yeah just saw this. th-cam.com/video/e9Lyc27Q7BA/w-d-xo.html here is a better view of mine minus the annoying music
how did you clean the passages that could not be removed from the power head? what did you use they look superclean
Martin Prado the water jacket which is what I removed is where all the deposits form bc it cools the power head and the passages are narrow. That's what causes the heating. If there were deposits somewhere else I didn't see them and they didn't contribute to the over heating problem. Sorry for the late response . I don't get notified when I get a comment . I need to change that on my settings
Martin Prado I used what you would use to clean the inside of a gun(a mini copper brush) I attached that to a drill and it worked great .
thanks Arnold! you are spot on with the brush i actually attempted this prior to your reply and yes works like a champ - so others whom read do this! Also as a heads up to those whom read as well. I had a chronic over heat issue. after a battery of tests I realized the full water pump housing needed replacing. there is a metal plate that is the base (mine was totally warped after 17 years of salt water use) took back breaking work to remove it. once i replaced it and all gaskets I get incredible water pressure and can now run WOT w 0 issues. so food for thought for those experiencing these issues.
Next time you take the heads off and clean out the crap do a proper job and soda blast the water ways then give them a coat of primer. this will help stop the galleys corroding.. obviously wont do much good if you dont rinse the motor properly in the first place... if anyone here reading this is too mean to buy a product like salt away, then use a strong toilet cleaner then give a realy good rinse afterwards. toilet cleaner will eat at the salts and crud.... this motor is a prime example of neglect and was only just caught in time.. ... could of been a very expensive lesson, but they caught this just in time.. nice to see they painted the outside of the heads, shame they did not do the galleys too... but good video to show what can happen if you dont rinse good
I bought the engine as a rebuilt engine a couple years before this happened. so someone had it long before I did. But still I should have flushed it on both ends . I do now
Sand blast cabinet works well with those outboard engines.... Outboard are pricey
th-cam.com/video/e9Lyc27Q7BA/w-d-xo.html i redid the job and sandblasted this time
No music,why do you need it
desert1cop wish I hadn’t added it
Good vid but really? Why the stupid music? And why do they call these motors Salt Water Series? It's all clogged up with salt!
I'm gonna guess they run hot and sea water is always cold
Please spare us the Katy Perry
Honestly....The ear muffs are okay...But if you really want to flush out your outboard good....Put it in a garbage can...with water and Dawn soap...and run that bitch for a while. Let that water heat up and make sure you keep the can topped off. All that crud in that motor will come out.. You won't get that with just the muffs.
th-cam.com/video/e9Lyc27Q7BA/w-d-xo.html i created a video without music and its more to the point. This is the second time i do this. No over heating afterwards. This process works everytime for overhearing issues
Just soak it in baking soda and vinegar for 6 hours no scrapping
th-cam.com/video/e9Lyc27Q7BA/w-d-xo.html i sand blasted the heads this time around. I just redid this job.
They're not studs they're bolts!
I don't understand how u ignore that
Youssef Lahbil i purchased the engine as a rebuilt engine which had been submerged . I had the engine for a year and a half maybe two years and it ran fine until this happened .
You have to flush it top and bottom
W Harris correct
Can’t hear a thing other than music
Might have been a good vid but Shite music spoiled it.... un watchable
You are absolutely right. Wish I could remove the music
U would think a guy would have different music then a female singing ....
Loose the mjsic