Is this really an issue? I thought it pretty easy when I got the bike to see what hex key fit the thru-axles and then remember that. "Okay, that's a 6mm hex key. I'll remember that." And I did. On the road, my multi-tool is always in my seat bag, so that means there's always a 6mm key in my seat bag. So if I happen to get a puncture that isn't sealed by the sealant in my tubeless tires, I'll plug it with my Dyna Plug. If that doesn't work, I'll say to myself, "Hey, self: you've got a 6mm hex key on your multi-tool in your seat bag." Groovy. I'll grab it, pull the wheel out, throw in a TPU tube, and move on. No sweat. This really is a first-world problem.
@@podiumphysio657 Sweet! I should because it's dead simple to remove the thru-axle with a multi-tool! It's so simple that virtually anyone not confined to a hospice can do it.
I use the plug-in lever version, which is held in place by a metal O-ring. The idea is that you can keep the lever on one wheel and use it for the other when needed on the road, saving you the hassle of searching for a tool. Additionally, a non-removable lever may interfere with some mechanical disc brake calipers. The removable lever helps with this since it doesn’t need to make a full revolution-you can remove and reinsert it at a different angle if needed.
Same here, mate! My latest bike came with axles needing a hex key. NFG! I found a DT replacement for the front easily enough but the rear, not so easy. Instead I simply bonded-in the nice DT spring-loaded lever from the too-short axle I bought to the existing axle so now both ends have 'em, nicely spring loaded so the levers can be placed in the proper position once the axles are secured. Of course the bike weighs a few grams more now, but the ease of removing the wheels more than makes-up for that! One more thing about aluminum thru-axles with 5 mm hex..they can easily be rounded-out if you're not careful or use a cheap hex-key, just one more reason to make this change.
Mavic has had this for ages with their Speed Release thru axle, with the bonus being that it tightens down and clicks when it hits 5-6Nm (not unlike a click style torque wrench), at which point you can keep turning clockwise to position it where you’d like (it continues clicking when you turn and doesn’t tighten any further than the maximum 5-6Nm). Saves you from having to carry a torque wrench and makes life easier!
It is all relative. Traditional quick release skewers have poor security also. Anyone who can turn that handle can steal your wheel. The only real security is line of sight supervision or a bike lock threaded through frame and wheels
I have a worry: if you point the handle backwards (on the rear wheel) and another rider even momentarily comes in too close and adjacent, he/she are guaranteed to go down hard. Maybe taking you with them. I always point my rear handle towards the front. Just sayin'.
ANY quick release axle is an invitation to losing one or both of your wheels. Yes, the bad guys can take an ordinary axle off but every little thing you can put in the way of them taking something from your bike will help.
I didn't see anything on the DT Swiss website about this, so I assume that they have produced a handle of dimensions (length) that the average person could tighten to spec when winding forcefully. Good question to ask them though...
First, the exact torque value isn’t critical - it’s more about staying within an adequate range. Second, manufacturer recommendations can sometimes be conflicting or even outright flawed. For example, my Ritchey Road Logic Disc has a spec of 10Nm, while DT Swiss RWS axles are rated for 15-20Nm (min-max). What’s odd is that DT Swiss applies these exact values across all their models, despite offering axles with various thread pitches ranging from 1.0mm to 1.75mm. Since the same rotational torque results in different clamping forces depending on the thread pitch, it seems DT Swiss doesn’t account for this variation. My Ritchey, for instance, has the finest available pitch (1.0mm), which provides more clamping force for a given torque. I suspect that’s why Ritchey specifies only 10Nm. Third, if you want to be consistent with a chosen torque value and you're using the plug-in version, you can torque the axle at home with a standard torque wrench and mark the axle head’s position relative to the frame. This gives you a rough but reliable reference for tightening on the road. Over time, you can re-check and adjust your marking to account for parts bedding in.
@@lekobiashvili945 I believe you can over-tighten these thru axels and damage the threads, so a 1mm thread pitch would have more margin for error I assume?...
@@podiumphysio657with the fine specialized thread you can obviously apply more force by hand than with the coarser trek thread. I hope the materials will not wear out. But that point would already be proven by the MTB application
Torque is important for carbon structures, because they are fragile and you don't want to overdo it I don't think carbon is used in any dropout.... Else you mostly just go by making sure it's "tight enough", and not "as hard as you can". Of course if this RWS is half the length of a similar Allen key, you need to apply 2 x the force! TA's are ~10 Nm usually, that's 10 kg for a 10 cm key (ie same effort as lifting an average bike with your hand).
Don’t mean to be pedantic, credibility wise, the word you were looking for was “axle.” The word you used was axel, which is a jump performed by ice skaters.
Is this really an issue? I thought it pretty easy when I got the bike to see what hex key fit the thru-axles and then remember that. "Okay, that's a 6mm hex key. I'll remember that." And I did. On the road, my multi-tool is always in my seat bag, so that means there's always a 6mm key in my seat bag. So if I happen to get a puncture that isn't sealed by the sealant in my tubeless tires, I'll plug it with my Dyna Plug. If that doesn't work, I'll say to myself, "Hey, self: you've got a 6mm hex key on your multi-tool in your seat bag." Groovy. I'll grab it, pull the wheel out, throw in a TPU tube, and move on. No sweat.
This really is a first-world problem.
Nice one Robin. You should make a video about how easy it is to use the multi-tool and what a waste of money an aftermarket thru axle is 😀
@@podiumphysio657 Sweet! I should because it's dead simple to remove the thru-axle with a multi-tool! It's so simple that virtually anyone not confined to a hospice can do it.
@@robinseibel7540 Awesome. I look forward to watching it and leaving my thoughtful comment
@@podiumphysio657 Ah, you're upset because someone disagrees with a video you publically published? Awww, that's too bad.
@@robinseibel7540 Thanks for your valuable feedback Robin
I use the plug-in lever version, which is held in place by a metal O-ring. The idea is that you can keep the lever on one wheel and use it for the other when needed on the road, saving you the hassle of searching for a tool. Additionally, a non-removable lever may interfere with some mechanical disc brake calipers. The removable lever helps with this since it doesn’t need to make a full revolution-you can remove and reinsert it at a different angle if needed.
I'd be scared that a removable component would get removed by someone else, or fall off or get knocked off if there was a crash.
Same here, mate! My latest bike came with axles needing a hex key. NFG! I found a DT replacement for the front easily enough but the rear, not so easy. Instead I simply bonded-in the nice DT spring-loaded lever from the too-short axle I bought to the existing axle so now both ends have 'em, nicely spring loaded so the levers can be placed in the proper position once the axles are secured. Of course the bike weighs a few grams more now, but the ease of removing the wheels more than makes-up for that! One more thing about aluminum thru-axles with 5 mm hex..they can easily be rounded-out if you're not careful or use a cheap hex-key, just one more reason to make this change.
Winner winner chicken dinner! Nice workaround...
Mavic has had this for ages with their Speed Release thru axle, with the bonus being that it tightens down and clicks when it hits 5-6Nm (not unlike a click style torque wrench), at which point you can keep turning clockwise to position it where you’d like (it continues clicking when you turn and doesn’t tighten any further than the maximum 5-6Nm). Saves you from having to carry a torque wrench and makes life easier!
outstanding!
My BMC came with that DT Swiss tool but it is detachable.
You got the schmancy in-dwelling but still removable hex key model!
@@podiumphysio657 It is now in the kit bag for my Winspace
Haven't got this issue. My cannondale topstone came with a lever,
On the plus side the use of a hex key is a little better security wise
It is all relative. Traditional quick release skewers have poor security also. Anyone who can turn that handle can steal your wheel. The only real security is line of sight supervision or a bike lock threaded through frame and wheels
I have a worry: if you point the handle backwards (on the rear wheel) and another rider even momentarily comes in too close and adjacent, he/she are guaranteed to go down hard. Maybe taking you with them. I always point my rear handle towards the front. Just sayin'.
Unfortunately I cant do that cos of my big feet!
ANY quick release axle is an invitation to losing one or both of your wheels. Yes, the bad guys can take an ordinary axle off but every little thing you can put in the way of them taking something from your bike will help.
For sure. Which is why my bike stays in my line of sight when not locked up at home.
Just another reason.
To stick with rim brakes.
Many would agree!
How do you ensure proper tightening torque according to specs with those?
I didn't see anything on the DT Swiss website about this, so I assume that they have produced a handle of dimensions (length) that the average person could tighten to spec when winding forcefully. Good question to ask them though...
First, the exact torque value isn’t critical - it’s more about staying within an adequate range.
Second, manufacturer recommendations can sometimes be conflicting or even outright flawed. For example, my Ritchey Road Logic Disc has a spec of 10Nm, while DT Swiss RWS axles are rated for 15-20Nm (min-max). What’s odd is that DT Swiss applies these exact values across all their models, despite offering axles with various thread pitches ranging from 1.0mm to 1.75mm. Since the same rotational torque results in different clamping forces depending on the thread pitch, it seems DT Swiss doesn’t account for this variation. My Ritchey, for instance, has the finest available pitch (1.0mm), which provides more clamping force for a given torque. I suspect that’s why Ritchey specifies only 10Nm.
Third, if you want to be consistent with a chosen torque value and you're using the plug-in version, you can torque the axle at home with a standard torque wrench and mark the axle head’s position relative to the frame. This gives you a rough but reliable reference for tightening on the road. Over time, you can re-check and adjust your marking to account for parts bedding in.
@@lekobiashvili945 I believe you can over-tighten these thru axels and damage the threads, so a 1mm thread pitch would have more margin for error I assume?...
@@podiumphysio657with the fine specialized thread you can obviously apply more force by hand than with the coarser trek thread. I hope the materials will not wear out. But that point would already be proven by the MTB application
Torque is important for carbon structures, because they are fragile and you don't want to overdo it I don't think carbon is used in any dropout....
Else you mostly just go by making sure it's "tight enough", and not "as hard as you can".
Of course if this RWS is half the length of a similar Allen key, you need to apply 2 x the force!
TA's are ~10 Nm usually, that's 10 kg for a 10 cm key (ie same effort as lifting an average bike with your hand).
Naaah, not gonna compromise the looks of mi bike 😂
Once you've tried it, you'll never go back!
Don’t mean to be pedantic, credibility wise, the word you were looking for was “axle.” The word you used was axel, which is a jump performed by ice skaters.
Wow. I've used both words interchangeably without even noticing. Thanks for pointing that out. I've fixed the thumbnail. The rest will have to stay!
@ No problem! Thought you might like to know. I do enjoy your content. Thanks!
@@willr1401 Honestly appreciated the gentle correction. I will make that same mistake less frequently in the future now LOL.