The Mora Companion, Heavy Duty, Stainless Steel is a great Father's Day present, but that spine. It won't sharpen with a file because the metal’s too hard. I like to use an angle grinder to remove those deeply rolled over corners and then touch them up with a diamond stone. Let me show you and then we'll try out the whole knife. Please follow the LINKs below and SUBSCRIBE. Thank You! Ferro Rod Playlist th-cam.com/play/PLkoXX8XsMW3lI6k8TH1Bljf57Yvp9K1WD.html Make Your Knife's 90 Degree Spine Into A Superscraper th-cam.com/video/CmCwyG65PJo/w-d-xo.html
SEÑOR WEST: 1. I LOVE your videos. I’d never heard of a Rudiger Roll before happening across your channel. Talk about “taking the blinders off”. I love it. 2. I would like to send you a knife, to get your take on it. A review, if you will. Just use it to do what you do. Shavings, ferro rod, etc., and just let fly with your thoughts on it. If I had your mailing address, I would just go ahead and send it to ya and let ya take it from there. (I’m pretty ignorant when it comes to this tech stuff. I don’t know if this is the best way to holler at ya or not.) Anyway, answer back if ya like. Either way, God Bless and keep doing what you’re doing!
I’m a retired gunsmith and I’ve done this often with just a file and stone. Looks like it came from the factory because you have way more control. Only matters if you care about ascetic’s which I’m kinda programmed to perform work that way because of my profession. Can’t fabricate a firearm part for a customer and have it looking like a turd. Great video and always enjoy the intel provided. Never to old to learn. 👍
I do mine by file and stone... But not as fast as you just did!! File takes quite a bit longer... But the main thing is to get that good for our fire steel... Fun video sir
They make strikers for ferro rods for a reason. So you don’t have to create a thumb blister maker on the spine of your knife. I’d carry two strikers before I would mess up the comfort of one of my moras.
I'm glad you mentioned a Dremel will work for this. I don't have a grinder and want to do this to my own Mora knife. I wish you had held both knives up to compare the HD blade to the other one. Nice little fires.
I had some good video of that, but didn't think about doing a quick cut away to that video then right back after I mentioned the heavy duty thicker blade was unnecessary for me.
Hi David, i have 4 companion Moras, 3 carbon and one stainless. The stainless has those softer grips. The others are all that harder plastic..they all hold a great edge and I have sharpened the spines. They are fabulous. I have other " bushcraft" knives, one hand made, $200, but i grab a $10 - $15 Mora almost every time. Thank you, David, for this video
David, you are right, a pure scandi grind, while very sharp, is also very weak, subject to chipping and rolling. Most Moras come from the factory with a micro bevel and are not a true scandi. That’s probably why the Heavy Duty cut feathers just like your companion.
I prefer the carbon steel blades. I bought a bunch of them years ago for $6 each. I keep them in the fishing boat the vehicle glove boxes, my camp kit. There is one stuck in a barn beam for opening feed sacks or cutting baking twine.
Did my SS Mora Companion spine a few years back. Worked great foe scraping wood and as a ferro-rod striker, but found the spine was too sharp for wood carving with my thumb on the spine. I just rounded off the first 2" blade, as per factory grind, and now much more comfy for carving and culinary use again. I use a 10" Duku Chandong for more heavy duty tasks and this, alongside the Mora covers 90% of my bush-craft cutting and chopping needs.
I left the spine in tact, because it's a working knife, not a ferrorod scraper. Not only do I choke up on the first part, but also index finger to the point.
Note the direction of the sparks. Grinding from right to left is appropriate IMO for a right hander. The right edge of the spine will close to 90 degrees, while the left edge will have a prominent burr.
I recently bought that exact same knife and same colour. I’m no expert on knives but after hearing so much good about Morakniv knives I decided to buy one - the Morakniv Companion HeavyDuty (S) in Stainless steel. All looked good but once unpacked I instantly notice the blade was bent. I tried to bend it straight but couldn’t. So it is a tough heavy duty knife, just badly made. I got it replaced and even that wasn’t truly straight from the handle, plus it had a small chip and a roll on the edge from the package, so terrible build quality. I wrote a review for the first bent knife on Morakniv’s website, but they refused to post it. So I’m not impressed by Morakniv nor recommend their knives. However after smoothing out the chip and roll, it is actually a good knife. 🔪 I also had to sharpen the spine. I noticed over the last few years you have gone through many similar Mora knives, so maybe they are not as durable as suggested.
I've had Mora's with much wider grinds on one side and then they all have that very deep hollow grind instead of a scandi. The grind marks are too lasting. The last half inch of one of the tips was not ground enough. I still love to use them for "work" knives. You can't say they're not durable when you don't know what I'm putting them through nor why I've taken them out of service.
No. I've had the "regular duty" blade flexed quite a bit when I got it stuck while batoning through a knot. When I extracted the knife, it sprung right back to perfectly straight.
Hate the heavy duty because everything's more difficult with the thicker blade. Sharpening the edge, sharpening the spine, slicing through things, piercicing, etc.
@@DavidWestBgood2ppl yes sir! I have one HD in carbon and then one standard jn stainless. I was thinking of edcing my stainless and my 10-049 like you as well as my pocket fresnel lenses and my bayite fero rod. do you carry your Mora daily?
I have a small Mora knife that's carbon steel that I got about 3 years ago. I'm not sure what model it is, the blade is short like 4 or 5 inches. But I have used it to field dress like 5 deer and its still razor sharp. Pretty impressive for a $10 knife. I have noticed it has a small like micro beveled edge, when it dulls up, would you recommend keeping that style of edge?
I sharpen the Scandi grind then put a micro bevel on that. How I Sharpen My Mora Companion Stainless, Edge And Spine th-cam.com/video/7cMWLkHeBIo/w-d-xo.html
I use the mora Garberg stainless and carbon regularly, have taken the grinder to the stainless but just wanted to ask is there a particular type of disc you use , thanks for another great tutorial David !
I'm sure this is a dumb question, but what the heck. I have the (Morakniv Craftline Basic 511 High Carbon Steel Fixed Blade Utility Knife and Combi-Sheath, 3.6-Inch Blade) The spine is very rounded and I am unable to make a spark. My question is, if I grind the spine like you do; how well would it throw sparks vs the stainless?
I for one am not a "Feather-stick Fan Boi" , When I need tinder, I use my hatchet and I BEAT the stick into small pieces and get my tinder that way.....basically you make a paintbrush out of a stick by beating the heck out of it with the back side of your hatchet. If the tinder is really dry, you get smashed tinder, if its green, you get feather tinder.
I would leave the knife the way it came from the factory using a grinder on the knife just doesn't make sense to me just to throw a spark to light a fire. A Mora Garberg just to name one is a better option to make a spark.
The Companion is a not a bushcraft knife. The finished spine is for thumb comfort when whittling or carving. I keep my ferrocerium rod on a lanyard with my striker so it is unlikely I would not have one without the other. I do have one HD model with a sharpened spine for scraping tinder but I like having the option and putting on a sharp edge is much easier than putting on a smooth surface. My opinion but great knives either way.🇨🇦
Lol. You would think that their Scandi Grind was just that, but not so much. When you give a new Mora it's first several sharpenings, you can easily see that there's a slight "Hollow Grind" to the Scandi also. Nobody ever talks about that.
Well, I mean technically you CAN file stainless, they make special files for that purpose. They're expensive. Problem is most people try it with files that are dulled and worn out , or worse yet used on carbon steel. If the old file manages to scratch it deep enough the contaminated rusty uncarded file can seed other metals into your stainless, then they corrode and the stainless corrodes with them😂So if your going to use a file on stainless, get the right ones folks, and don't ever use it on anything else. Otherwise this is the way to do it for sure
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 86 | คู่เอก "คมเพชร vs ชาติพยัคฆ์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/m3q_dRYDuU8/mqdefault.jpg)
The Mora Companion, Heavy Duty, Stainless Steel is a great Father's Day present, but that spine. It won't sharpen with a file because the metal’s too hard. I like to use an angle grinder to remove those deeply rolled over corners and then touch them up with a diamond stone. Let me show you and then we'll try out the whole knife.
Please follow the LINKs below and SUBSCRIBE. Thank You!
Ferro Rod Playlist
th-cam.com/play/PLkoXX8XsMW3lI6k8TH1Bljf57Yvp9K1WD.html
Make Your Knife's 90 Degree Spine Into A Superscraper
th-cam.com/video/CmCwyG65PJo/w-d-xo.html
SEÑOR WEST:
1.
I LOVE your videos. I’d never heard of a Rudiger Roll before happening across your channel.
Talk about “taking the blinders off”. I love it.
2.
I would like to send you a knife, to get your take on it. A review, if you will. Just use it to do what you do. Shavings, ferro rod, etc., and just let fly with your thoughts on it.
If I had your mailing address, I would just go ahead and send it to ya and let ya take it from there.
(I’m pretty ignorant when it comes to this tech stuff. I don’t know if this is the best way to holler at ya or not.)
Anyway, answer back if ya like.
Either way, God Bless and keep doing what you’re doing!
I’m a retired gunsmith and I’ve done this often with just a file and stone. Looks like it came from the factory because you have way more control. Only matters if you care about ascetic’s which I’m kinda programmed to perform work that way because of my profession. Can’t fabricate a firearm part for a customer and have it looking like a turd. Great video and always enjoy the intel provided. Never to old to learn. 👍
I'd love to see a machinist's work on rounded spine. Perfection is a beautiful thing too.
I do mine by file and stone... But not as fast as you just did!! File takes quite a bit longer... But the main thing is to get that good for our fire steel... Fun video sir
I'd clamp it a vice with soft Jaws and cut it with a carbide end mill on a bridgeport.
I'm up in the northern Adirondacks camping! But I still had to get my daily dose of David West channel.. Got my Mora heavy duty with me 👍
Pretty stout knife. TY!
Moras are surely the best value in the entire knife world! Even if you have to “fix” the spine, well worth what they cost.
That spine really took a good 90 degree edge and burr!
Nope, Marttiini Condor Timberjack definitly beats even the cheapest Mora for value
They make strikers for ferro rods for a reason. So you don’t have to create a thumb blister maker on the spine of your knife. I’d carry two strikers before I would mess up the comfort of one of my moras.
I'm glad you mentioned a Dremel will work for this. I don't have a grinder and want to do this to my own Mora knife. I wish you had held both knives up to compare the HD blade to the other one. Nice little fires.
I had some good video of that, but didn't think about doing a quick cut away to that video then right back after I mentioned the heavy duty thicker blade was unnecessary for me.
A boy with his “new knife”, stories from around fires eons ago …Not much better than that 👍🏻🔥👍🏻
TY!
Hi David, i have 4 companion Moras, 3 carbon and one stainless. The stainless has those softer grips. The others are all that harder plastic..they all hold a great edge and I have sharpened the spines. They are fabulous. I have other " bushcraft" knives, one hand made, $200, but i grab a $10 - $15 Mora almost every time.
Thank you, David, for this video
I would too. It's hard to mar up a pristine expensive knife.
Thank you for the advice I really appreciate your videos I also just got a mora companion not the HD but still need to put a 90 degree spine on it
Thanks James!
you can also peel something like ginger and carrot if you sharpen the back
Thanks David for the tutorial. I'm on a road trip to Alaska, so have been missing many of the videos due to bad reception. The fishing is good!
Way to enjoy yourself! Thanks friend!
Good stuff. This can be done by hand, especially if you just sharpen a 1/2in-1inch section as a ferro striker.
That knife is my next purchase. 😊
I recommend regular duty not heavy duty.
@@DavidWestBgood2ppl so do I, you can abuse the regular one as much honestly and it slices slightly better, being thinner
I believe the Companion HD has a larger handle than the regular if that matters to you.
Yes, saw that on the packaging. It doesn't feel bigger though.
Oh happy day another great video. Thank you for sharing stay safe and God Bless
Ali!
Great video Mr west sure like your new working knife 👌👍🔥
It's a good'n!
Good afternoon David , thanks for sharing , God bless !
Thank you!
David, you are right, a pure scandi grind, while very sharp, is also very weak, subject to chipping and rolling. Most Moras come from the factory with a micro bevel and are not a true scandi. That’s probably why the Heavy Duty cut feathers just like your companion.
Interesting.
I prefer the carbon steel blades. I bought a bunch of them years ago for $6 each. I keep them in the fishing boat the vehicle glove boxes, my camp kit. There is one stuck in a barn beam for opening feed sacks or cutting baking twine.
I’m going to go back to the Carbon Steel again and see how I like them after these several years using the Stainless.
Did my SS Mora Companion spine a few years back. Worked great foe scraping wood and as a ferro-rod striker, but found the spine was too sharp for wood carving with my thumb on the spine. I just rounded off the first 2" blade, as per factory grind, and now much more comfy for carving and culinary use again. I use a 10" Duku Chandong for more heavy duty tasks and this, alongside the Mora covers 90% of my bush-craft cutting and chopping needs.
I've heard those spine concerns before.
I left the spine in tact, because it's a working knife, not a ferrorod scraper. Not only do I choke up on the first part, but also index finger to the point.
Very surprised you had to do this. I have 4 Mora Companions and all came with a perfect 90 Deg. Spine
They have to be made sharper to scrape well.
Note the direction of the sparks. Grinding from right to left is appropriate IMO for a right hander. The right edge of the spine will close to 90 degrees, while the left edge will have a prominent burr.
Very true!
thanks for the tips and tricks.
Always welcome!
I recently bought that exact same knife and same colour. I’m no expert on knives but after hearing so much good about Morakniv knives I decided to buy one - the Morakniv Companion HeavyDuty (S) in Stainless steel.
All looked good but once unpacked I instantly notice the blade was bent. I tried to bend it straight but couldn’t. So it is a tough heavy duty knife, just badly made.
I got it replaced and even that wasn’t truly straight from the handle, plus it had a small chip and a roll on the edge from the package, so terrible build quality.
I wrote a review for the first bent knife on Morakniv’s website, but they refused to post it. So I’m not impressed by Morakniv nor recommend their knives. However after smoothing out the chip and roll, it is actually a good knife. 🔪 I also had to sharpen the spine.
I noticed over the last few years you have gone through many similar Mora knives, so maybe they are not as durable as suggested.
I've had Mora's with much wider grinds on one side and then they all have that very deep hollow grind instead of a scandi. The grind marks are too lasting. The last half inch of one of the tips was not ground enough. I still love to use them for "work" knives. You can't say they're not durable when you don't know what I'm putting them through nor why I've taken them out of service.
Just got my first Mora great knife thanks
I agree. TY!
@@DavidWestBgood2ppl by the way I got one for my daughter also
I have the Companion HD (carbon), Companion (SS) but the one I go to most is my little 511 (carbon)
I've never tried the 511. I know I'd like though.
@@DavidWestBgood2ppl its handy like a pocket knife and one of the cheapest Mora makes (
Me too man. The ergos are crazy good
Thank you for the video! What model of saw are you using?
Corona Razor Tooth Saw from Lowe’s, $25.
@@DavidWestBgood2ppl Thank you!
Thanks for your Mora companion hd unboxing, modification, use and review. Have you ever bent the blade(not the edge)of a mora companion?
No. I've had the "regular duty" blade flexed quite a bit when I got it stuck while batoning through a knot. When I extracted the knife, it sprung right back to perfectly straight.
do you like the heavy duty companion or the standard companion better?
Hate the heavy duty because everything's more difficult with the thicker blade. Sharpening the edge, sharpening the spine, slicing through things, piercicing, etc.
@@DavidWestBgood2ppl yes sir! I have one HD in carbon and then one standard jn stainless. I was thinking of edcing my stainless and my 10-049 like you as well as my pocket fresnel lenses and my bayite fero rod. do you carry your Mora daily?
No.
🙏
Nice work.
Thanks for the visit
I have a small Mora knife that's carbon steel that I got about 3 years ago. I'm not sure what model it is, the blade is short like 4 or 5 inches. But I have used it to field dress like 5 deer and its still razor sharp. Pretty impressive for a $10 knife. I have noticed it has a small like micro beveled edge, when it dulls up, would you recommend keeping that style of edge?
I sharpen the Scandi grind then put a micro bevel on that. How I Sharpen My Mora Companion Stainless, Edge And Spine th-cam.com/video/7cMWLkHeBIo/w-d-xo.html
I use the mora Garberg stainless and carbon regularly, have taken the grinder to the stainless but just wanted to ask is there a particular type of disc you use , thanks for another great tutorial David !
When you look through all the Dewalt grinding discs at Lowe’s, choose the one rated for Stainless.
Thanks a mil
I'm sure this is a dumb question, but what the heck. I have the (Morakniv Craftline Basic 511 High Carbon Steel Fixed Blade Utility Knife and Combi-Sheath, 3.6-Inch Blade) The spine is very rounded and I am unable to make a spark. My question is, if I grind the spine like you do; how well would it throw sparks vs the stainless?
Well, I spent some time reading the comments and it looks like the carbon steel is good to go.
You can file yours or grind the spine to make it scrape just as well as mine. If you ever get a Stainless knife, you'll have to grind.
Needs to be filed or ground. Search my channel for Superscraper.
Awesome video!
The heavy duty is most likely better for batoning larger diameter branches.
Yes. TY!
yet batoning itself is useless for 99% of scenarios
work smarter not harder
@@escapetherace1943 Totally agree, but it is “must do” TH-cam content. Get out the h
Grinds a quarter of the knife : good knife now !😂
I for one am not a "Feather-stick Fan Boi" , When I need tinder, I use my hatchet and I BEAT the stick into small pieces and get my tinder that way.....basically you make a paintbrush out of a stick by beating the heck out of it with the back side of your hatchet. If the tinder is really dry, you get smashed tinder, if its green, you get feather tinder.
I hear ya!
I would leave the knife the way it came from the factory using a grinder on the knife just doesn't make sense to me just to throw a spark to light a fire. A Mora Garberg just to name one is a better option to make a spark.
Scraping with a sharp spine is very important to me. Search my channel for "scrape and scraping".
I respect your view but it doesn't fit my camping and fire making needs. Thank you for responding back to me.
Sense when there’s a HD in Stainless?
?
What is the metal you use for a table top?
I/8" plate. I don't know the gauge.
👍
I just cut a sharp notch and didn’t do the whole back edge
🖐🏻 David , wondering what kind of stone you’re using , can I get it on Amazon ?
Smith's Stone from Home Depot.
@@DavidWestBgood2ppl Thank you 😊
Beautiful! Have you ever tried a bahco knife?
No. They look like a Mora don't they?
@@DavidWestBgood2ppl yes, I wonder if they're just as good.
LOL! Me too.
Be careful! The low end Bahco’s are made in China now. For two euros more, you can get the ones made in Sweden.
Im surprised Mora doesnt do this at the factory.
Me too.
The Companion is a not a bushcraft knife. The finished spine is for thumb comfort when whittling or carving. I keep my ferrocerium rod on a lanyard with my striker so it is unlikely I would not have one without the other. I do have one HD model with a sharpened spine for scraping tinder but I like having the option and putting on a sharp edge is much easier than putting on a smooth surface. My opinion but great knives either way.🇨🇦
I'll stick with waterproof matches.
You kinda lost me at the "Scandi Grind" But I will figure it out. Thanks..
Disregard. I googled it. tks
Lol. You would think that their Scandi Grind was just that, but not so much. When you give a new Mora it's first several sharpenings, you can easily see that there's a slight "Hollow Grind" to the Scandi also. Nobody ever talks about that.
@@DavidWestBgood2ppl Thanks for your videos !
Ummm... I did it with a file...
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I'm not youtube
Instructions unclear. I've been trying and failing to sharpen a spineless stain.
Lol!
Or just use a lighter 😂
You're barely moving and you screwed up what you're doing, stop, just stop.
Hi.
Im a swedish outdoor entusiast.
I really like your vids..
BUT..i dont mean to be mean..but you really cant do shawings AT ALL😅😅😅
Well, I mean technically you CAN file stainless, they make special files for that purpose. They're expensive. Problem is most people try it with files that are dulled and worn out , or worse yet used on carbon steel. If the old file manages to scratch it deep enough the contaminated rusty uncarded file can seed other metals into your stainless, then they corrode and the stainless corrodes with them😂So if your going to use a file on stainless, get the right ones folks, and don't ever use it on anything else. Otherwise this is the way to do it for sure