Thanks range Rover. Appreciated. If you want to see an excellent example of a finished model try this one. modeleng.proboards.com/thread/13166/stirling-single-10-00-scotsman?page=44
For your first loco it’s turning out to be a absolutely stunning piece of engineering, hats off to you sir. I’m excited to watch how this project develops!
Beautiful engine already! And quite a beautiful choice for a first loco. I got plans to build a first locomotive myself in the near future but am probably playing it more save going for a Scamp haha. Keep up the good work!
Peter that sounds great. There are a couple of excellent build threads on the model engineering forum which you may find useful ( I did). This is one of them. modeleng.proboards.com/thread/13166/stirling-single-10-00-scotchman?fbclid=IwAR24e3Mj5PwiDrHEtQri_iOT6vKAiHeCZxEpml6ksYDpU5Xzat0DH1CVjXw Graham
Very nice work. Regarding the knock - when you ran the loco suspended in the cradle, did you pack up the axle boxes to the normal ride height? If the loco is running with the suspension at its lowest extreme then this could cause the knocking. Cheers Craig.
Hi Craig, no I had not packed it to the correct ride height. I have now tried doing so and it has definitely reduced the knock but not eliminated it. I am also not convinced that I have the valve timing spot on and I wonder if that could be part of the problem.
Yes timing may well be key to this. Try setting the timing to give early admission to the cylinders. That is - the valve starts to open before the piston reaches TDC or BDC. It has the effect of cushioning the pistons as they decelerate whilst also providing immediate force to the piston once it has gone over TDC/BDC. I think it is called 'lead' on the valve setting. On my 9F loco I seem to recall setting the valve lead at 0.010" using a feeler gauge. Definitely worth a try. Cheers Craig.
Sorry, the above is valve setting not timing. I put up a long-winded video regarding setting the valve timing for the Walschearts gear on my 9F. Not sure if any of it would translate to your valve gear.
@@no23mk2 Many thanks for that, I think I can learn a lot from your video, as I understand it the valve opening and closing is basically the same irrespective of the type of valve gear.
Excellent work. A very impressive job. With the little knock, a silly question, have you checked the clearance between eccentrics and that frame stretcher behind them, including the screws holding them together? Have you also got sufficient head clearance between piston head and front and back covers? But if it is only on blocks, it is probably going to be in the valve gear or a slight slop in the valve gear. That has been my experience anyways.
Mark, thanks for the comment unfortunately its not the ball as I have yet to add them. I think it maybe one of the die blocks that may be slightly undersize, I shall investigate further and post back if I get to the bottom of it.
Absolutely beautiful!! Are you working from any plans? I am currently building a 7 1/2 gauge Atlantic. Was thinking of building one of these for a friend next. He loves this engine with a passion as it ran through his hometown :) Hope you have many happy years steaming her.
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Beautiful
Beautiful, well done
Thanks, appreciated.
There is no doubt about the grace of some of the old locos! Yours is going to be a beauty, nice work.
Thanks Peter I appreciate that.
The Locomotive is amazing, great job
Thanks range Rover. Appreciated. If you want to see an excellent example of a finished model try this one. modeleng.proboards.com/thread/13166/stirling-single-10-00-scotsman?page=44
I envy your ability to build things. You've done an oustanding job with this!
Hi Steven, thanks for that. I have allways enjoyed building things and with a bit of patience and lots of remakes its surprising what can be acheived.
For your first loco it’s turning out to be a absolutely stunning piece of engineering, hats off to you sir. I’m excited to watch how this project develops!
Many thanks for your kind comment, its appreciated.
Many thanks for that.
Excellent work with great attention to detail.
Thanks, I appreciate that.
Beautiful engine already! And quite a beautiful choice for a first loco. I got plans to build a first locomotive myself in the near future but am probably playing it more save going for a Scamp haha.
Keep up the good work!
That runs beautifully, so true and smooth
Thanks, its not perfect as there is definately a small knock which needs sorting but overall its not too bad.
Hi Chap,
I've picked up a part built one of these myself that I am working on. Thanks for the pointers on design errors and modifications !
Peter that sounds great. There are a couple of excellent build threads on the model engineering forum which you may find useful ( I did). This is one of them. modeleng.proboards.com/thread/13166/stirling-single-10-00-scotchman?fbclid=IwAR24e3Mj5PwiDrHEtQri_iOT6vKAiHeCZxEpml6ksYDpU5Xzat0DH1CVjXw
Graham
Excellent work so far and a nice looking model. Regards Kevin
Thanks Kevin
Beautiful work on the loco and I’m very much impressed with your lifter. Would be great to see some close ups on how you built them.
Any little knocks or clanking noises will go away as soon as it is on a track, They all makes knocking sounds on the bench. Nice workmanship.
That's good to know.
Very nice work. Regarding the knock - when you ran the loco suspended in the cradle, did you pack up the axle boxes to the normal ride height? If the loco is running with the suspension at its lowest extreme then this could cause the knocking.
Cheers Craig.
Hi Craig, no I had not packed it to the correct ride height. I have now tried doing so and it has definitely reduced the knock but not eliminated it. I am also not convinced that I have the valve timing spot on and I wonder if that could be part of the problem.
Yes timing may well be key to this. Try setting the timing to give early admission to the cylinders. That is - the valve starts to open before the piston reaches TDC or BDC. It has the effect of cushioning the pistons as they decelerate whilst also providing immediate force to the piston once it has gone over TDC/BDC. I think it is called 'lead' on the valve setting. On my 9F loco I seem to recall setting the valve lead at 0.010" using a feeler gauge. Definitely worth a try.
Cheers Craig.
Sorry, the above is valve setting not timing. I put up a long-winded video regarding setting the valve timing for the Walschearts gear on my 9F. Not sure if any of it would translate to your valve gear.
@@no23mk2 Many thanks for that, I think I can learn a lot from your video, as I understand it the valve opening and closing is basically the same irrespective of the type of valve gear.
Yer adding flangs to make it move on custom rails?
will you be building the boiler yourself?
Hi Dio. No I have purchased the boiler from Western Steam. Construction of the boiler would be above my capabilities
Excellent work. A very impressive job. With the little knock, a silly question, have you checked the clearance between eccentrics and that frame stretcher behind them, including the screws holding them together? Have you also got sufficient head clearance between piston head and front and back covers? But if it is only on blocks, it is probably going to be in the valve gear or a slight slop in the valve gear. That has been my experience anyways.
Not a silly question as some of the clearances are very small but I have double checked this and its not that.
@@engineeringmodeller Any luck with finding it elsewhere? All the best anyways!
beautiful work, you mentioned a slight knocking sound , could it be a ball or check valve on the water pump?
Mark, thanks for the comment unfortunately its not the ball as I have yet to add them. I think it maybe one of the die blocks that may be slightly undersize, I shall investigate further and post back if I get to the bottom of it.
Absolutely beautiful!! Are you working from any plans? I am currently building a 7 1/2 gauge Atlantic. Was thinking of building one of these for a friend next. He loves this engine with a passion as it ran through his hometown :) Hope you have many happy years steaming her.
Thanks Robert thats appreciated. I am working from Reeves plans which I must say are pretty good there are some errors but nothing like on some locos.
Wow. I'm building a 16mm bagnal brick and thought that was hard haha
I' need vedio details How to regulator exhuast steam 2 valvea dowen piston and how to conecteed moveiv wethe steam engine...pleas and very thanks for you....