Microwave went dark and lost power. Was fixed by replacing one of the thermal fuses (thermostat part #DE47-20060A) purchased from AppliancePartsPros.com. They have some helpful DIY info there.
After testing the 2 fuses, three door switches, HV transformer, magnetron and capacitor, and watching many repair videos on the the subject you solved my problem. Damm that was a couple of days work testing and watching. The part will only cost me $13.04 from Amazom. Jumped the two leads to flame sensor so i got a working microwave till the part comes in. We'er only heating left overs so I don't expect to flame up. Thanks Mr Rob for your video.
Thank you so much for the video! I can’t believe how easy of a fix it was only cost $3.00 for the fuse. I was going to call someone to come out or just replace the whole microwave so glad I watched your video!!
Picked up a free mw on job site. Would have been in the landfill. Just needed one of the door switches. Thanks for video. Helped me get in. Note: never interrupt your mw by opening the door. Switches not rated for breaking contact. They're safety only.
I fixed my Samsung microwave just like in here. It was the exact same problem. Thanks for the instructions. You saved me $475 - which was what I was going to spend on a new one from Lowe’s. Very easy fix.
WAIT!!! This video is still good but after the second fuse blew on the second day, I had to go replace the door switches. Amazon parts and 15 min later, hopefully it’s fixed.
The Arrow with plus sign is for checking Diodes not fuses. Diodes only read closed in 1 direction. This is what the plus sign is telling you. Fuses are typically checked using the ohm setting which looks like a horse shoe. Thermal switches either open or close based on temperature. If you have the correct replacement then likely it is bad based on your readings. Burnt parts are a sign they are likely bad. Thanks for doing the video. I have similar issue and this saves me time on figuring out how to open it.
Nice work. This just happened to me today. Now just a thought on this: Samsung's microwave ovens were most likely made in Asian countries where the fuses installed by factory default were 250V / 20A. That could be taking too much load and that could be why your thermostat was burned not the fuse. I installed a North American fuse rated at 120V / 15A. Hopefully next time if anything happens again the fuse will be the first line defence.
My unit also had a bad thermal fuse with discolored connector. I noticed that some people were filing the pins on the new fuse. It might be better to install new, larger connectors that can conduct more current as the connector may be overheating and burning out the thermal fuse. Great video, helped me a lot!
It looks like that connector getting hot (poor connection inside the connector) is what actually heated up the thermal fuse and caused it to trip. I say that because 120F would not cause that sort of discoloration.
Thanks for a great video Rob. I had changed the fuses and door switch and still no power. After I saw your video, I checked the 3 thermal fuses for conductivity and one was bad. I am going to Reliable Parts here in Toronto and pick one up today. Cheers Buddy!
Same exact problem with my Samsung microwave. The burnt connection was the telltale sign. But the thermal fuse wasn't bad. Just poor manufacturing. The blade connector wasn't properly coupled and over time lost continuity and burnt the cover. Pulled the burnt cover off and placed shrink tubing over connector and reconnected, properly this time! Tutto Perfetto!!
We tried to apply this fix but our MW is still not working. I believe it's because we did something wrong with the new wire connector. We put a "3/16" female quick disconnect (16-14 gauge)" over the wire that had the burnt plastic cover, crimped it and then attached both connectors to the new thermostat. What did we do wrong? Any ideas?
I have the same problem. I call Samsung asking for the part number, but they weren't sure, they recommended sending a technician out to diagnose the microwave. Can someone please give me the OEM part number for thermal fuse/thermostat?
I keep blowing the 20a fuse. I yestes the same thermostats and they tested good. I also tested all the door switches, and they tested good. Any ideas what it might be?
Hi, thanks so much for your videos. I have the same device and the problem it has is turn on when close the door so, what the problem could be?. Thanks again
I have that kind of microwave. We got it second hand and it’s a bit dented up. Was cooking on the stove underneath it the other night and steam was coming out. The panel did the -SE- error code. So I looked it up and tried opening up he microwave like how you showed here but I can find anything that looks like it’s broken or not connected or dirty or anything. Any suggestions?
Heading to the store to buy fuses . Hopefully this is my issue… i has to fix the door latch and press the switch in the latch and then stopped working- if not fuse could the the micro switch? Thanks
Watching this video was like looking into a mirror of my own microwave. This was exactly the issue and the fix worked perfectly. On a related note, I would advise everyone to not buy Samsung appliances. We bought our house 5 years ago which had new Samsung appliances. All 4 of our major appliances, fridge, microwave, dishwasher, and oven/range have had to be repaired. The fridge and range have needed 2 repairs each and the dishwasher had to be replaced after only 3 years in the house. Samsung is totally garbage. Save your money and buy other brands.
Preach. Have the same microwave and it's dead. French door fridge with icing problem and has a freezer sensor that ripped out and now way to get to wiring. Range that is on its second control board. Typing this comment from a Galaxy S9 plus that's on its second screen and battery. Samsung quality....I think not
I agree, I have a duplex with Samsung in both units. 1 fridge was replaced, 1 fridge with issues, I've fixed both dishwashers and now a microwave. No One in my area works on them. This 63 yo lady is learning!!
Have same wiring as u. Didn't pay enuf attn when I unplugged. Wondering which dbl bayonet connectors short white dbl female and long blu dbl female connectors go to. Help!
did this issue cause the microwave to turn off after running for a second or 2 and then never come back on or would it always come back but do the same thing every time?
Hi, great video. Little help here please? I don't have an altimeter as I wouldn't know how to use it but I have replaced the fuse on my one and it still doesn't work. I think it could be the thermal thingy but as I can't test it I will just have to buy a new one and hope for the best. If the problem isn't any of those, what could it be? What would you look at next? Thanks!
Actually you can easily test it without an altimeter. Use a thin wire to make a connection between the two tabs, near the base of the thermostat. Just make a circular wrap around the tabs so there's a direct electrical connection. (Use a bit of tape to cover the wire, to prevent that wire touching another metal part and causing a short. ) Then replug the electrical connectors into the two tabs on the thermostat. (For this test you don't have to insert the thermostat back into the slot that secures it to the frame.) Plug the microwave to a power source. If the panel lights come on you know the thermostat is faulty and needs to be replaced. You could even do a short test to see if the microwave will heat something, but don't put the unit into normal use without a good thermostat,. The thermostat is there to toggle the flow of electricity as it encounters changes in the thermal range.
Thanks for the video. This appears to be my problem. When you ordered the thermostat part did it come with the wire connectors? Mine (same thing as yours) is actually melted to the current thermostat. Just looking to see if you replaced that part as well or if you just plugged your old connector back into the new thermostat. Thanks!
Jason Scott np! Glad it's helped some people! My connector did have some melted plastic. I reused it as the metal looked good and the plastic wasn't going to cause issues with the connection
Did you figure this out? I noticed my top fuse was blown. I put a new one in, it came on I set the time but as soon as I tried to actually microwave something I blew again.
I only had to replace the one thermostat on top and the microwave has been working fine ever since. A pretty basic multimeter should have a setting for a continuity test. The meter will beep or light up when you touch the two ends of the tester together and should do the same if your fuse is working properly at room temperature.
I didn't, but I'm sure an electrician would suggest that you do replace it. Its not that difficult. I think most wire stripping pliers can also crimp a new end on.
Hi Rob! This exact thing happened to use last night! We ordered a new thermal fuse - thanks for the part number. Did you change the wires and/or connector?
@@robdavisjr it's burnt so bad! Do you have any idea where I can get one? My husband and I can't seem to find the information for it on the internet anywhere!!!
@@tristabrennan1133 I'm guessing it's probably a 14 gauge wire. I'd cut it off where the burnt area ends and carry the fuse, connector and wire into home Depot or Lowe's and they'll have what you need in the electrical section
hi. this happened to me 2 days ago. i saw this video last night and thanks to $13 one-day delivery from Amazon, tonight it's working again. strange thing though, it quit again not long after i fixed it. i turned around the connector that has the plastic on it and it fit better. after that it worked again. seeing the burning on that plastic connector in this video, i suspect the real problem is that connector is loose. it probably arched and burned the plastic. could also have damaged the thermostat. so i don't know if my thermostat was actually bad. but you folks out there reading this, try making the plastic covered connector fit tighter and see if it fixes the issue with no parts. the other connector has an actual clip on it that holds it tight on there. -rocky
I have the same microwave, suddenly the heating function stopped. But all other function are working. I tried changing the fuse, still the same. Can you recommend what further I can do?
So was that the problem ? Were you able to fix it ? I have the exact one and what it does is that it hums when i shut the door and stops when i open the door. Please help
Awesome video. Just gotta say... maybe lead with "UNPLUG YOUR MICROWAVE" not put it at the 2:24 mark after taking it all apart... cause... well... you know. Death and all.
Mine was not burnt to the point that it needing replacing, but I believe that a pair of wire cutters/krimper and a replacement end shouldn't be too difficult of a repair
Thanks, I replace one of the Thermal Fuses and back to going again. 6.50 part and 10 min to install. My Microwave is less than 6 months old, I would of took it back and got another one. I am glad cause its a bitch to remove and install another one.
![รวมเพลงลูกทุ่ง 6 หนุ่มไทบ้าน ฮิตติดกระแส ชุดที่ 1 l มนต์แคน ไมค์ ไผ่ เสถียร ไหมไทย พี [Longplay]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GD2v1OjMw5I/mqdefault.jpg)
After testing the 2 fuses, three door switches, HV transformer, magnetron and capacitor, and watching many repair videos on the the subject you solved my problem. Damm that was a couple of days work testing and watching. The part will only cost me $13.04 from Amazom. Jumped the two leads to flame sensor so i got a working microwave till the part comes in. We'er only heating left overs so I don't expect to flame up. Thanks Mr Rob for your video.
Thanks so much man. You have me the courage to look and the issue was exactly what you had. Faulty thermostat. Works great so far.
Thank you so much for the video! I can’t believe how easy of a fix it was only cost $3.00 for the fuse. I was going to call someone to come out or just replace the whole microwave so glad I watched your video!!
TH-cam changing the fuses in a dometic microwave
Picked up a free mw on job site. Would have been in the landfill. Just needed one of the door switches. Thanks for video. Helped me get in. Note: never interrupt your mw by opening the door. Switches not rated for breaking contact. They're safety only.
Thanks so much for this video! Saved me a big headache figuring out how to get to the fuses!
I fixed my Samsung microwave just like in here. It was the exact same problem. Thanks for the instructions. You saved me $475 - which was what I was going to spend on a new one from Lowe’s. Very easy fix.
WAIT!!! This video is still good but after the second fuse blew on the second day, I had to go replace the door switches. Amazon parts and 15 min later, hopefully it’s fixed.
Mine wasn't either of these problems, but I fixed mine because you gave me the confidence to open the bad boy up, thank you!
What did it end up being. I tested the door switches and thermostat and they tested good. Any help would be appreciated.
@@douglasjohannes3579 it was just a loose connection on the circuit board. Just wiggle and push all the wires and that fixed it for me
A big thank you! same problem $6 fix! Really appreciated...
The Arrow with plus sign is for checking Diodes not fuses. Diodes only read closed in 1 direction. This is what the plus sign is telling you. Fuses are typically checked using the ohm setting which looks like a horse shoe. Thermal switches either open or close based on temperature. If you have the correct replacement then likely it is bad based on your readings. Burnt parts are a sign they are likely bad. Thanks for doing the video. I have similar issue and this saves me time on figuring out how to open it.
Nice work. This just happened to me today. Now just a thought on this: Samsung's microwave ovens were most likely made in Asian countries where the fuses installed by factory default were 250V / 20A. That could be taking too much load and that could be why your thermostat was burned not the fuse. I installed a North American fuse rated at 120V / 15A. Hopefully next time if anything happens again the fuse will be the first line defence.
Bro you are a life saver. Saved me so much time!!!!! Thanks a bunch.
My unit also had a bad thermal fuse with discolored connector. I noticed that some people were filing the pins on the new fuse. It might be better to install new, larger connectors that can conduct more current as the connector may be overheating and burning out the thermal fuse. Great video, helped me a lot!
It looks like that connector getting hot (poor connection inside the connector) is what actually heated up the thermal fuse and caused it to trip. I say that because 120F would not cause that sort of discoloration.
Thanks for a great video Rob. I had changed the fuses and door switch and still no power. After I saw your video, I checked the 3 thermal fuses for conductivity and one was bad. I am going to Reliable Parts here in Toronto and pick one up today. Cheers Buddy!
Wow! You just saved me a lot of money! Thank you!
Same exact problem with my Samsung microwave. The burnt connection was the telltale sign. But the thermal fuse wasn't bad. Just poor manufacturing. The blade connector wasn't properly coupled and over time lost continuity and burnt the cover. Pulled the burnt cover off and placed shrink tubing over connector and reconnected, properly this time! Tutto Perfetto!!
We tried to apply this fix but our MW is still not working. I believe it's because we did something wrong with the new wire connector. We put a "3/16" female quick disconnect (16-14 gauge)" over the wire that had the burnt plastic cover, crimped it and then attached both connectors to the new thermostat. What did we do wrong? Any ideas?
Thank you so much!!! Works great so far.
You helped fix my microwave. same problem. Thank you!
Can you please send me the part number? I have the same problem....
Thank you gave me the confidence to dive in & blown fuse 🙌🏻 🤘🏻
Thank you so much!! Help me out a ton!
Hi great video. Showed this to my husband. He & my daughter followed every step & now my microwave works perfectly. Thank you so much 🙏
Can you please send me the part number? I have the same problem....
this is the best video for the 5e error code! I was able to fix it just by disconnecting the ribbon cable and rubbing it with the eraser! 😊
Thank you, I was able to replace defective door switches with your help on how to disassemble the front of the unit.
Never interrupt your mw by opening the door. Switches aren't meant to break contact under load
When the microwave stopped working, did the time still appear on the control panel. Or was everything off?
Same thing happen to my Samsung. Fix it for $4.86. Great 👍 video
I have the same problem. I call Samsung asking for the part number, but they weren't sure, they recommended sending a technician out to diagnose the microwave. Can someone please give me the OEM part number for thermal fuse/thermostat?
Where would the humidity sensor be located?
I keep blowing the 20a fuse. I yestes the same thermostats and they tested good. I also tested all the door switches, and they tested good. Any ideas what it might be?
Hi, thanks so much for your videos. I have the same device and the problem it has is turn on when close the door so, what the problem could be?. Thanks again
I have that kind of microwave. We got it second hand and it’s a bit dented up. Was cooking on the stove underneath it the other night and steam was coming out. The panel did the -SE- error code. So I looked it up and tried opening up he microwave like how you showed here but I can find anything that looks like it’s broken or not connected or dirty or anything. Any suggestions?
Heading to the store to buy fuses . Hopefully this is my issue… i has to fix the door latch and press the switch in the latch and then stopped working- if not fuse could the the micro switch? Thanks
Watching this video was like looking into a mirror of my own microwave. This was exactly the issue and the fix worked perfectly. On a related note, I would advise everyone to not buy Samsung appliances. We bought our house 5 years ago which had new Samsung appliances. All 4 of our major appliances, fridge, microwave, dishwasher, and oven/range have had to be repaired. The fridge and range have needed 2 repairs each and the dishwasher had to be replaced after only 3 years in the house. Samsung is totally garbage. Save your money and buy other brands.
Preach. Have the same microwave and it's dead. French door fridge with icing problem and has a freezer sensor that ripped out and now way to get to wiring. Range that is on its second control board.
Typing this comment from a Galaxy S9 plus that's on its second screen and battery.
Samsung quality....I think not
I agree, I have a duplex with Samsung in both units. 1 fridge was replaced, 1 fridge with issues, I've fixed both dishwashers and now a microwave. No One in my area works on them. This 63 yo lady is learning!!
I got a used microwave. The front plastic shield is missing. Is it dangerous without that?
Thanks, this was my exact problem
Have same wiring as u. Didn't pay enuf attn when I unplugged. Wondering which dbl bayonet connectors short white dbl female and long blu dbl female connectors go to. Help!
did this issue cause the microwave to turn off after running for a second or 2 and then never come back on or would it always come back but do the same thing every time?
Can anyone here tell me what size screw the black screws holding the top grille into place are - I cannot find that information for the life of me.
Five minutes and five dollars, you rock!
I have the same model. When I open the door it starts cooking without having set anything and then stops when I close the door. Any thoughts?
can u tell me how u determined the thermal fuse was bad. When u connected the multimeter did it say 0? or no reading. tht is important to see.
This is how many people are trying to fix their microwave
Anyone knows the part # for the250v/20A fuse please?
Hi, great video. Little help here please?
I don't have an altimeter as I wouldn't know how to use it but I have replaced the fuse on my one and it still doesn't work. I think it could be the thermal thingy but as I can't test it I will just have to buy a new one and hope for the best.
If the problem isn't any of those, what could it be? What would you look at next?
Thanks!
Actually you can easily test it without an altimeter.
Use a thin wire to make a connection between the two tabs, near the base of the thermostat.
Just make a circular wrap around the tabs so there's a direct electrical connection.
(Use a bit of tape to cover the wire, to prevent that wire touching another metal part and causing a short. )
Then replug the electrical connectors into the two tabs on the thermostat. (For this test you don't have to insert the thermostat back into the slot that secures it to the frame.)
Plug the microwave to a power source. If the panel lights come on you know the thermostat is faulty and needs to be replaced.
You could even do a short test to see if the microwave will heat something, but don't put the unit into normal use without a good thermostat,. The thermostat is there to toggle the flow of electricity as it encounters changes in the thermal range.
Thank you very much
This is great!! Thank you for sharing this. My prob is exactly that thermostat. My connector is so melted, though. How do I connect a new one?
Thank you so much blown fuse
Why did it burn out? Mine burnt out because of a different problem, the microwave would get stuck on.
Thanks for the video. This appears to be my problem. When you ordered the thermostat part did it come with the wire connectors? Mine (same thing as yours) is actually melted to the current thermostat. Just looking to see if you replaced that part as well or if you just plugged your old connector back into the new thermostat. Thanks!
Jason Scott np! Glad it's helped some people! My connector did have some melted plastic. I reused it as the metal looked good and the plastic wasn't going to cause issues with the connection
Jason Scott
So I replaced this thermal fuse. It started up and blew the fuse right away. Any idea why it would blow it so suddenly?
Did you figure this out? I noticed my top fuse was blown. I put a new one in, it came on I set the time but as soon as I tried to actually microwave something I blew again.
did anyone have to replace the other thermostats or just the one on top? also does anyone have a good video to test the thermostats like he did?
I only had to replace the one thermostat on top and the microwave has been working fine ever since. A pretty basic multimeter should have a setting for a continuity test. The meter will beep or light up when you touch the two ends of the tester together and should do the same if your fuse is working properly at room temperature.
Hi! Did you replace the wires too? Mainly the white wire that was burned. And if you did, how did you do it? Was replacing the wire easy to do?
I didn't, but I'm sure an electrician would suggest that you do replace it. Its not that difficult. I think most wire stripping pliers can also crimp a new end on.
Thanks man.
Mine just started showing a - SE- code on the display. Any help would be appreciated.
Carmelo how did you fix it ....the SE code
@@barbarachavez1779 front panel was dead and way to expensive. Just bought a new one. It was cheaper.
thanks
microwave still working but display is very dim - does anyone know how to fix this?
Hi Rob! This exact thing happened to use last night! We ordered a new thermal fuse - thanks for the part number. Did you change the wires and/or connector?
I did not, but if the connectors appear burnt, the best thing is to replace them.
@@robdavisjr it's burnt so bad! Do you have any idea where I can get one? My husband and I can't seem to find the information for it on the internet anywhere!!!
@@tristabrennan1133 I'm guessing it's probably a 14 gauge wire. I'd cut it off where the burnt area ends and carry the fuse, connector and wire into home Depot or Lowe's and they'll have what you need in the electrical section
@@tristabrennan1133 could be 12 gauge, 14 gauge 16 gauge... It may be printed on the wire somewhere, or someone in the hardware store can help
hi. this happened to me 2 days ago. i saw this video last night and thanks to $13 one-day delivery from Amazon, tonight it's working again.
strange thing though, it quit again not long after i fixed it.
i turned around the connector that has the plastic on it and it fit better.
after that it worked again.
seeing the burning on that plastic connector in this video, i suspect the real problem is that connector is loose. it probably arched and burned the plastic. could also have damaged the thermostat. so i don't know if my thermostat was actually bad. but you folks out there reading this, try making the plastic covered connector fit tighter and see if it fixes the issue with no parts. the other connector has an actual clip on it that holds it tight on there.
-rocky
My samsung still runs when I shut door a humming sound but gets hot.
I have the same microwave, suddenly the heating function stopped. But all other function are working. I tried changing the fuse, still the same. Can you recommend what further I can do?
did you get it fixed? If so what was it?
I'm having the same problem, everything works but it isn't heating. Anyone have solutions I can check out?
Where do you get the fuses Lowe's etc
I think the site I used was appliance pros. Google the part number on the fuse
It's in the description along with my part number... I'd double check that your fuse is the same specs
Looks way beyond me!! Worth getting a repair man?
So was that the problem ? Were you able to fix it ? I have the exact one and what it does is that it hums when i shut the door and stops when i open the door. Please help
Drywall Experts it was the thermal fuse that I replaced in the video that fixed the problem.
What was the initial problem? Mine hums when the door is shut but the control board works fine.
Drywall Experts no humming. It completely died. There's a lot of good DIY info at appliancepartspros.com
Rob Davis I was just on that page lol. I think it might not be that but I'm still taking it apart later on today. Hopefully it's a simple fix. Thanks!
Drywall Experts hi. I have the same problem with my microwave it's hums when the door is closed, so did u find the problem?
Was the thermal switch your problem?
Yes
Awesome video. Just gotta say... maybe lead with "UNPLUG YOUR MICROWAVE" not put it at the 2:24 mark after taking it all apart... cause... well... you know. Death and all.
I replaced the fuses and still have no power whatsoever of course I checked the circuit and the plug all working fine yet no power
The fried wire is what cause that fuse to go bad.
Thks & quite happy kid
How did you replace the connector wire that was burnt?
Mine was not burnt to the point that it needing replacing, but I believe that a pair of wire cutters/krimper and a replacement end shouldn't be too difficult of a repair
so did it solve your problem?
Yes, mine and many others
@@robdavisjr did you discharge the capacitor before working on it? If so how do you pull off the plastic cover to discharge it?
number one unplug number two is the most important DISHCHARGE THE CAPACITOR!!!! very important lol 😆
I have the same problem. Where can I go to purchase the thermal fuse?
Pretty sure I bought it from appliancepartspros.com
@@robdavisjr What's the part number?
@@joebetts8819 DE47-20060A
Thanks, I replace one of the Thermal Fuses and back to going again. 6.50 part and 10 min to install. My Microwave is less than 6 months old, I would of took it back and got another one. I am glad cause its a bitch to remove and install another one.
Can you give me the part number? I have the same problem....
I have to replace the thermal fuse as well smh
Good info thanks. Maybe get a tripod
So is there a follow-up to this video, with any indication as to whether it worked or not? Did that fix the issue?
It did fix the problem
@@robdavisjr cool, thx. 👍
My macrowave has the code P-20
of course its fool proof if there is a reading of continuity with a fuse its good otherwise its not.
Uh uh uh uh uh uh uh uh...damn
The video made me seasick. Couldn't he have used a tripod or got a friend to hold the camera?
Next time...