Anyone else look at the underside of that car and get a Car Mechanic Simulator vibe from the sharp contrast of pure rust brown and clean silver/grey parts?
I don't have a Durango, I don't have a Dodge, hell I don't even have an American car! But I still watch all the videos you make just because you are great at what you do!
Flipping hell I get so excited when I see a new video of yours! I don’t even care what it’s about. I’ve become so much more confident in taking on my own repairs just from learning here
Fun fact! Plastic oil pans exist because they direct NVH (Noise/Vibration/Harshness) downwards making a quieter running vehicle, as sound takes the path of least resistance. Hence plastic sump but metal skid plate!
@@alexstromberg7696 That's not safety. Safety is just keeping track of when it is so that it doesn't roll away on you and making sure you can't accientally put it in neutral without making it overly complicated, because the ability to roll a car on command is still necessary.
Thank you very much for sharing this information. A customer pulled in to my shop with the exact same vehicle/problem. I also checked the workshop manual first and thought about declining the job. Luckily I found your video and the swap was a breeze. Why the manufacturer tells you to tear the entire vehicle apart when it clearly can be done this way is beyond me.
2010 dodge charger... I had the "pleasure" of dropping the rear end (cradle) that contains the diff, cvs, hubs, shocks, springs...and more. But to do so, you have to move the fuel filler hose out of the way and drop the exhaust from the cats back, and a lot of patience. Once that was done I removed the one inner bolt holding the tension strut, replace strut... and put it all together. That said I love that car! it handles great, has enough power and is generally really fun to drive. Definitely worth doing again if it means keeping it for another 10 years. But yes... I feel your pain in this vid.
Did you have to replace the rear suspension cradle bushings? Apparently the bushing will separate from the cradle: testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/117365/000000003b9bc979
Oh cool! I job i already know how to do! I'm actually a dodge tech as a day job, and I've been doing these routinely since I started. But your absolutely correct to do it this way, as we also do not remove the subframe on this job. It differs slightly based on the model, but it really is generally just taking the inner tie rods of both units, unbolting the gear, and repeat to install. Good job!
@@sp1068 that’s correct. On v6s you actually have more clearance on the oil pan. The easiest way is to just remove the inner tie rods. If you run into clearance issues you just undo the motor mounts to raise the engine. After removing the inner tie rods and unbolting the rack, it should slide right out
That big block of iron is actually a tuned damper to reduce noise and vibration from the vehicle. It is tuned specifically to help eliminate high peak sounds that the vehicle produces, and gives the passengers a reduced level of interior noise/vibration.
Hey Mike! You dodged (lol pun not intended) a bullet with rebuilding the old rack. I attempted it with my 1987 Porsche 944. Wasted a lot of time and money and the damn thing leaked worse than before. I ended up buying a remanufactured unit in the end anyway lol. Great video as always and keep up the good work!
Are you accusing them of over thinking this? Because I think they did - including a steel skid plate for a plastic oil pan. Genius! I'm glad you didn't have to do this in the winter. I'm looking forward to Part 2.
thanks for the tip taking the inner left tie rod end worked for 2013 grand Cherokee lardeo i did not have to take diffental off save lot of time thanks again
Great video. Glad I didn't tackle this job. Getting older and don't really want to be laying on the cold concrete anymore. Although I think I could have done this myself it would have taking me more than the 6-8 hours of labor they were charging me. Markup on the parts is just frustrating. More than 100% markup on parts is just ridiculous. Thanks for posting the video.
At 9:30 the problem you have with the axle is the same as I have with my Eclipse, I have to unbolt the wire holder for the ABS sensor to let it tilt out a little bit more, it also helps to turn the steering full lock in one direction.
Can i give you a huge tip? Take off the inner tie rod. The book time for these is 8 hours. If you take off the inner tie rod on the driverside, the rack will come out in a matter of 45 mins. I do them all the time. My buddy showed me that trick. You dont have to take the axles, controls arms, or anything apart.
Had a 2011 Durango AWD. Replaced the front struts, front half shafts, upper and lower control arms on both sides, and had everything removed, replaced and off thejack stands in only 2.5 hours...
We never claimed to do anything quickly haha! Filming alone doubles or triples the amount of time anything takes. Then factor in the incompetence. It's amazing it didn't take me two months!
Plastic oil pan, is a thing in the 18 wheeler world because it lowers the engine running noise. A steal or aluminum oil pan and valve cover makes the noise echo or what its called. Correct me if I'm wrong.
At 6:50 , I had this problem also. Almost 45 mins of hammering it still would not pop out. The holes on the back with the threads by the differential, I sprayed WD-40 in the holes and within two minutes of hammering it all came out. 2015 rt
I don’t often suggest going to the stealership, but with the service bulletin in hand I suggest folks go to the dealership. Offer to pay for an oil change and sometimes they will do the work without a huge fight. If they won’t just walk away and go to a reputable shop.
I have a 1982 firebird and there is no power to anything not even the fuse box I have not been able to figure out why my best bet is that the wires are shot do you think I should change all of the wires for the car or just change the ones that need to be changed
I get you have never done this job before but simply shifting the hub towards the front of the vehicle will allow for enough space to remove the CV axle.
99% of the time they definitely are! This one was an exception. XJs are some of the more difficult ones I've had to remove, especially if there is enough in the way that you can't just torch them red hot
Fair point, that is certainly another option! It adds some weight and bulk to the hanging object but if you can't get the slide pins out or need it all off anyway that will usually work. Can be difficult to get brake pads back on that way sometimes though
Just came across your video. About to do the same on a ‘14 Grand Cherokee. Fortunately for me, I’m also replacing both cv axles and tie rods. Would you think it necessary to still remove the front diff since both tie rods will be removed??
How did it turnout about to do this on a 5.7 hemi grand cherokee 2014? Did you end up removing the inner tie rod ends to make it easier to get the rack in and out?
Hey, I have a 2012 citadel I will be doing the same repair too, any chance you have info on which steering rack is needed? Or how to depict which one is needed? Their is the “sport” rack or the normal rack. It’s the only thing hanging me up from Fixing mine and I cannot find any info on how to diag which one is needed
When breaking loose a ball joint, dont just take the nut off half way, Remove the nut all the way and then thread it back on half way or til the nut is flush with the ball joint stud, then knock it loose. this way u won't have to fight the ball joint stud spinning cause the nuts threads r still rusted on👍
Also if u don't have the correct tool for the caliper bolts, but the caliper bracket bolts r regular hex bolts, just remove the bracket with the caliper still attached to it, actually, do that anytime u need to just get the caliper out of the way, makes the hole rotating assembly lighter in cases like ur lift kit on the silverado🤘
Probably a very silly question but why doesn’t this dodge have warranty? If it does then I’m assuming warranty doesn’t cover this. Fantastic video and I can’t wait for part two I also hope your doing well!!
Hey fuzzy dice, we got a 2015 grand cherokee let’s hope this don’t happen to us. Also I want to know what model impact you got that tackled all your repairs and mods, I currently have air tools and a compressor that’s nowhere near the recommended capacity for my impact. I’m going to be switching to battery tools. I own a dewalt 1/4” impact driver that I use for little jobs currently and it’s been abused for a year straight and it’s still going despite having a little play in the hex shank shaft. Im considering to buy a DCF899M1 and only use the compressor for filling tires. Dewalt love ❤️
The bigger impact is the DCF899, fantastic tool. As long as you put a 5/6Amp battery on it there isn't a lot it won't loosen on a normal light duty vehicle. It's also quite heavy though, and using it laying on the floor is a real workout. More recently I got the DCF894 and I use that for most jobs now. It's almost half the weight and will loosen most fasteners without complaint. Every once in a while it doesn't quite have enough oomph so the DCF899 is a better one to go with first, the size and weight are really the only problems I've had with it.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects I’m fine with size I’m going to save up and get one of those, my 11 gallon plus 7 gallon air tank set up really sucks at only 120ish psi. I tried to turn up the cut out on my compressor only to find that the safety bleeder goes to work at 125 psi and the motor on my 20 year old compressor is now wanting to seize up on me since it’s 25 Degrees here in Chicago. I love the videos you guys are putting out and I love the approach to making these videos and I would love to see more. My garage is slowly getting equipped with the tools I need.
this job pays 8hrs at my dodge dealership....i can have it done in under 1hr....hint...you just have to disconnect the lines and the two mounting bolts and the entire assembly can be snaked out the passanger side wheel well without removing anything....we call these racks in the durango and the grand cherokee "gravy" jobs
@@Richard.Sanchez you would be surprised how many vehicles have weights like that. Some of the cameros had weights on brake pads to dampen vibrations. Lol
Nicely done videos. You just have to watch South Main Auto for a while to learn how poorly engineered most Dodge, Jeep and Chrysler vehicles are. A steering rack failure on a 2011 with only 25K miles is hard to excuse and FCA doesn’t seem to care about serviceability or even, as your demonstrated, how to properly write service procedures. I’d never own one of these unreliable money pits out of warranty but FCA even sends their dealers info on how to avoid warranty repairs.
The complexity of modern cars is staggering. And this car is still almost 10 years old... An 8-step procedure that involves removing trim to find hidden levels to put the car in neutral?!?
2011 car and it needs a new steering rack.My 2005 Hyundai matrix 1.6 has the original steering rack.And I don't really change the power steering fluid.Gm quality
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Your channel is sooooo underrated
Yea
scam^
Anyone else look at the underside of that car and get a Car Mechanic Simulator vibe from the sharp contrast of pure rust brown and clean silver/grey parts?
I don't have a Durango, I don't have a Dodge, hell I don't even have an American car! But I still watch all the videos you make just because you are great at what you do!
Same.
Flipping hell I get so excited when I see a new video of yours! I don’t even care what it’s about. I’ve become so much more confident in taking on my own repairs just from learning here
Ah the good old fashioned chrysler 25k mile scheduled steering rack service
This video shows why i prefer my 15-28 years old cars over new junk...
i was thinking the same thing. it might be old and slow but it's cheap and easy to fix.
@@frotobaggins7169 and buying them you don't spend your entire yearly income :p
FuzzyDice: *removes steering rack without completely dismantling entire vehicle*
The engineer who designed this vehicle: *wait that’s illegal*
Fun fact! Plastic oil pans exist because they direct NVH (Noise/Vibration/Harshness) downwards making a quieter running vehicle, as sound takes the path of least resistance. Hence plastic sump but metal skid plate!
Had to do a full GTA cheat code to get the car in Neutral goddamn
😆😆😆😆
Hahahhha
Called safety, seen enough from videos from USA so this should've been harder too do
@@alexstromberg7696 That's not safety. Safety is just keeping track of when it is so that it doesn't roll away on you and making sure you can't accientally put it in neutral without making it overly complicated, because the ability to roll a car on command is still necessary.
Thank you very much for sharing this information. A customer pulled in to my shop with the exact same vehicle/problem. I also checked the workshop manual first and thought about declining the job. Luckily I found your video and the swap was a breeze. Why the manufacturer tells you to tear the entire vehicle apart when it clearly can be done this way is beyond me.
I love your channel and have been here for a while and I get excited every time you upload.
2010 dodge charger... I had the "pleasure" of dropping the rear end (cradle) that contains the diff, cvs, hubs, shocks, springs...and more. But to do so, you have to move the fuel filler hose out of the way and drop the exhaust from the cats back, and a lot of patience. Once that was done I removed the one inner bolt holding the tension strut, replace strut... and put it all together. That said I love that car! it handles great, has enough power and is generally really fun to drive. Definitely worth doing again if it means keeping it for another 10 years. But yes... I feel your pain in this vid.
Did you have to replace the rear suspension cradle bushings? Apparently the bushing will separate from the cradle: testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/117365/000000003b9bc979
@@NickLoecke no not yet
@@NickLoecke the main reason is the tension link (fowards facing rear upper control arm)
I love the text caption "Just like rich parents" It made me laugh.
I have to say i have been really disappointed in Dodge/Ram products these past 15 years or so.... Mostly electrical. Great video
Oh cool! I job i already know how to do! I'm actually a dodge tech as a day job, and I've been doing these routinely since I started. But your absolutely correct to do it this way, as we also do not remove the subframe on this job. It differs slightly based on the model, but it really is generally just taking the inner tie rods of both units, unbolting the gear, and repeat to install. Good job!
Don't have to drop the diff? Mine is a '13 SXT V6 AWD.
@@sp1068 that’s correct. On v6s you actually have more clearance on the oil pan. The easiest way is to just remove the inner tie rods. If you run into clearance issues you just undo the motor mounts to raise the engine. After removing the inner tie rods and unbolting the rack, it should slide right out
Does that work on the 5.7 V8 Overland Grand Cherokee?
So what you're saying is don't buy this vehicle, EVER? :D
Finally some fuzzy dice project content yay
That big block of iron is actually a tuned damper to reduce noise and vibration from the vehicle. It is tuned specifically to help eliminate high peak sounds that the vehicle produces, and gives the passengers a reduced level of interior noise/vibration.
Hey Mike! You dodged (lol pun not intended) a bullet with rebuilding the old rack. I attempted it with my 1987 Porsche 944. Wasted a lot of time and money and the damn thing leaked worse than before. I ended up buying a remanufactured unit in the end anyway lol. Great video as always and keep up the good work!
Are you accusing them of over thinking this? Because I think they did - including a steel skid plate for a plastic oil pan. Genius!
I'm glad you didn't have to do this in the winter. I'm looking forward to Part 2.
my favorite part is the plastic oil pan possibly to save weight then add big iron NHV weights. lol
thanks for the tip taking the inner left tie rod end worked for 2013 grand Cherokee lardeo i did not have to take diffental off save lot of time thanks again
Very good detail keep up the good work
Great video. Glad I didn't tackle this job. Getting older and don't really want to be laying on the cold concrete anymore. Although I think I could have done this myself it would have taking me more than the 6-8 hours of labor they were charging me. Markup on the parts is just frustrating. More than 100% markup on parts is just ridiculous. Thanks for posting the video.
At 9:30 the problem you have with the axle is the same as I have with my Eclipse, I have to unbolt the wire holder for the ABS sensor to let it tilt out a little bit more, it also helps to turn the steering full lock in one direction.
Can i give you a huge tip? Take off the inner tie rod. The book time for these is 8 hours. If you take off the inner tie rod on the driverside, the rack will come out in a matter of 45 mins. I do them all the time. My buddy showed me that trick. You dont have to take the axles, controls arms, or anything apart.
Does that work on v8 or only v6?
@@beccaj945 all of them
So I have everything unbolted and both ends off how to get it out?
@@beccaj945 did you take of the driver inner tie rod?
@@colerippeon3903 will try tomorrow
I get so happy when you upload. You’re my favorite car youtuber! Love you man!
How does a 9 year old car only have 25k miles? It’s sooooo clean! Well, the bodywork and exterior.
Brilliant video you have the patience of a saint to do this job 👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧
I’m so happy I have a rwd makes this job a lot easier without those front cvs
I’ve done this, on a lift, in a professional grade shop. Props to you because god damn did I hate that particular R&R
Always look forward to your vids. Happy Holidays!
Wow, what a detailed video, great job! Must be nice to work on newer vehicles with not a lot of rust.
Had a 2011 Durango AWD. Replaced the front struts, front half shafts, upper and lower control arms on both sides, and had everything removed, replaced and off thejack stands in only 2.5 hours...
We never claimed to do anything quickly haha! Filming alone doubles or triples the amount of time anything takes. Then factor in the incompetence. It's amazing it didn't take me two months!
Where is part 2? Great job so far!
Plastic oil pan, is a thing in the 18 wheeler world because it lowers the engine running noise. A steal or aluminum oil pan and valve cover makes the noise echo or what its called. Correct me if I'm wrong.
1:04 "Subject: Moan Like Sound" hahahaha
"In the next episode..."
Noooooooo!
If you disconnect the bottom of the shock and loosen the lower control arm you'd have an easier time with the shafts
Great episode
Work on vehicles long enough and you can always tell which engineer had an abusive, alcoholic father who was a mechanic....
I never got a notification for your video
Good video! Though straight axles are the best🤙
New to your channel...keep up the good work
At 6:50 , I had this problem also. Almost 45 mins of hammering it still would not pop out. The holes on the back with the threads by the differential, I sprayed WD-40 in the holes and within two minutes of hammering it all came out. 2015 rt
Still got my original steering rack on my '91 154k mile Peugeot 205. Only last year did the inner tie rods eventually wear enough to fail.
I don’t often suggest going to the stealership, but with the service bulletin in hand I suggest folks go to the dealership. Offer to pay for an oil change and sometimes they will do the work without a huge fight. If they won’t just walk away and go to a reputable shop.
I remember one day I said I won’t to work on cars and then I saw this video 🤦🏿♂️👉🏾🥶I’m good
Good video
I thought my Dodge Grand Caravan AWD was the WORST mopar to service. I take that back after seeing this Durango....
thanks for this movie. do you know if we can remove upper oil pan from 3.6 durango 2013 without removing subframe?
A 2011 with 25k miles on it, whatcha saving her for?
I have a 1982 firebird and there is no power to anything not even the fuse box I have not been able to figure out why my best bet is that the wires are shot do you think I should change all of the wires for the car or just change the ones that need to be changed
Good thing you are young....
I get you have never done this job before but simply shifting the hub towards the front of the vehicle will allow for enough space to remove the CV axle.
Why not activate the steering lock to keep the steering wheel straight?
If the Durango isn’t awd. Does the upper arm ball joint still need to be separated to remove the rack ?
Oh shit i knew the voice sounded familiar 😂 I think mine had the same problem
I seriously thought that steering shaft was going to fight you, my Jeep XJ was a battle royal. Lol 😂
99% of the time they definitely are! This one was an exception. XJs are some of the more difficult ones I've had to remove, especially if there is enough in the way that you can't just torch them red hot
When you need to remove a caliper to just get it out of the way' why not unbolt it at the bracket?
Fair point, that is certainly another option! It adds some weight and bulk to the hanging object but if you can't get the slide pins out or need it all off anyway that will usually work. Can be difficult to get brake pads back on that way sometimes though
What a pia.... Live your ch
I replaced the rack in a jeep grand cherokee 4x4 this weekend. HOLY CRAP. Worst job I've EVER done. It ate my lunch and most of my dinner.
You don’t have to remove the caliper to remove the brakes. You can just take the bracket bolts out and remove the whole assembly.
Just came across your video. About to do the same on a ‘14 Grand Cherokee. Fortunately for me, I’m also replacing both cv axles and tie rods. Would you think it necessary to still remove the front diff since both tie rods will be removed??
How did it turnout about to do this on a 5.7 hemi grand cherokee 2014? Did you end up removing the inner tie rod ends to make it easier to get the rack in and out?
Hey, I have a 2012 citadel I will be doing the same repair too, any chance you have info on which steering rack is needed? Or how to depict which one is needed? Their is the “sport” rack or the normal rack. It’s the only thing hanging me up from
Fixing mine and I cannot find any info on how to diag which one is needed
What were your symptoms on needing to replace?? Steering issues?
When breaking loose a ball joint, dont just take the nut off half way, Remove the nut all the way and then thread it back on half way or til the nut is flush with the ball joint stud, then knock it loose. this way u won't have to fight the ball joint stud spinning cause the nuts threads r still rusted on👍
Also if u don't have the correct tool for the caliper bolts, but the caliper bracket bolts r regular hex bolts, just remove the bracket with the caliper still attached to it, actually, do that anytime u need to just get the caliper out of the way, makes the hole rotating assembly lighter in cases like ur lift kit on the silverado🤘
You know its bad when theres 2 parts of a job
Probably a very silly question but why doesn’t this dodge have warranty? If it does then I’m assuming warranty doesn’t cover this. Fantastic video and I can’t wait for part two I also hope your doing well!!
They are usually so many years and miles. So it ends whichever comes first. It’s nine years old so the warranty probably ended at 3 years.
Take a shot every time he says “unfortunately”
Shouldn't it be under warranty?
I'm guessing it eclipsed the set duration.
Hey fuzzy dice, we got a 2015 grand cherokee let’s hope this don’t happen to us. Also I want to know what model impact you got that tackled all your repairs and mods, I currently have air tools and a compressor that’s nowhere near the recommended capacity for my impact. I’m going to be switching to battery tools. I own a dewalt 1/4” impact driver that I use for little jobs currently and it’s been abused for a year straight and it’s still going despite having a little play in the hex shank shaft. Im considering to buy a DCF899M1 and only use the compressor for filling tires. Dewalt love ❤️
The bigger impact is the DCF899, fantastic tool. As long as you put a 5/6Amp battery on it there isn't a lot it won't loosen on a normal light duty vehicle. It's also quite heavy though, and using it laying on the floor is a real workout. More recently I got the DCF894 and I use that for most jobs now. It's almost half the weight and will loosen most fasteners without complaint. Every once in a while it doesn't quite have enough oomph so the DCF899 is a better one to go with first, the size and weight are really the only problems I've had with it.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects I’m fine with size I’m going to save up and get one of those, my 11 gallon plus 7 gallon air tank set up really sucks at only 120ish psi. I tried to turn up the cut out on my compressor only to find that the safety bleeder goes to work at 125 psi and the motor on my 20 year old compressor is now wanting to seize up on me since it’s 25 Degrees here in Chicago. I love the videos you guys are putting out and I love the approach to making these videos and I would love to see more. My garage is slowly getting equipped with the tools I need.
Yours has EPS, so you should be good.
You could have taken the entire caliper mounting bracket off all at once and you wouldn’t have had to use the hex socket at all.
Could just trade in the Durango for a new rack and pinion!!
this job pays 8hrs at my dodge dealership....i can have it done in under 1hr....hint...you just have to disconnect the lines and the two mounting bolts and the entire assembly can be snaked out the passanger side wheel well without removing anything....we call these racks in the durango and the grand cherokee "gravy" jobs
umm i find this hard to believe, i have to tackle this job and its stressing me out lol, i hope you are right though!
Did you get it out without removing any thing?
Has anybody tried this to see if it actually works?
Even AWD models? Mine is a '13 SXT
@Scypher0th what's the process for getting it out the passenger side and are you taking the inner tie rod ends off?
10:40 I want to know more about the reason for the lead weights.
Probaly nvh dampers.
Buyer: "It vibrates too much!"
Dodge: "It's too expensive to fix the vibration, so lets add extra weight to the vehicle to dampen it instead."
@@Richard.Sanchez you would be surprised how many vehicles have weights like that. Some of the cameros had weights on brake pads to dampen vibrations. Lol
The next Christ Fix
7:16 lol
Nicely done videos. You just have to watch South Main Auto for a while to learn how poorly engineered most Dodge, Jeep and Chrysler vehicles are. A steering rack failure on a 2011 with only 25K miles is hard to excuse and FCA doesn’t seem to care about serviceability or even, as your demonstrated, how to properly write service procedures. I’d never own one of these unreliable money pits out of warranty but FCA even sends their dealers info on how to avoid warranty repairs.
I had a reman rack replaced >2 years ago, it has failed. Also found out that a brand new rack is slightly more with the same warranty, UGH
I didnt knew that the Durango and the Grand Cherokee shared the same platform. And what i really didnt knew is that the Durango came with a V8?!
It's a Dodge, you can always option out a V8.
thank God mine is rwd..:D
After watching this, who do I make this $1,600 check out to?
How is that not covered under the warranty?
It’s a 2011, most car warranties then were for 4-5 years or 50,000 miles.
I think I'm gonna stick with my 80's G bodies.
I got a quote for my 2015 jeep grand cherokee for 3,350 dolars plus 1,670 for the front axel seals 😂
Great video but you just killed Dodge's warranty SRTs! 😄
This generation of Durango/grand Cherokee are based on the Mercedes ML suv hence the reason for some of the quirky stuff...
Guess, I WON'T BE BUYING ANOTHER DURANGO!!😲😲😲😲
OK anyone else thinking the same thing..... all I heard the whole time was Scotty Kilmer laughing!
This free jeep is getting expensive
You'd think this would be covered under a warranty
The complexity of modern cars is staggering. And this car is still almost 10 years old... An 8-step procedure that involves removing trim to find hidden levels to put the car in neutral?!?
Great Fiat quality there,not even 25K on the clock and already leaking.
you can almost smell the chinesium O rings from here.
First like and then watch!
That's what happens when you source the cheapest seals from China.
Dodge....Anything Mopar related....two words......Extended Warranty.
all that just for neutral
2011 car and it needs a new steering rack.My 2005 Hyundai matrix 1.6 has the original steering rack.And I don't really change the power steering fluid.Gm quality
Every car ur working on has rust.
the north east life.
It's a dodge for crying out loud they all have issues lol.
yeah i'll take working on a bmw over this hell any day