For those of you who noticed, yes, this video is a week late! The next upload will be an update video and one of the things to talk about is the scheduling of uploads. The idea is to get more of the car videos everyone is asking for without losing my mind in the process of making them. This was a difficult edit because I wanted to keep in most details so that it would be informative enough to guide someone through a job like this and save them some time avoiding the issues I had, but also not so repetitive and slow moving that anyone else would totally lose interest. Hopefully this trial and error journey is at least a little interesting to some of you out there!
You've got a schedule?! Seriously, I watch when I get the notification & when I have a free moment - like a Sunday evening. Doing something like this in the "comfort" of your own garage as opposed to a fully equipped shop is going to come with challenges - let alone recording & editing it for TH-cam. I might be one of the few that will say "upload when you can", but that's exactly what I say. I have plenty of time, all things considered. :) #2020
Quick tip for you: the next time you have to do an alignment, pulling those clamps off is one good way to loosen the boot, but WD-40 goes a long way towards making them slip more on the tie rod, and make your job easier.
Thanks so much for posting this thorough and helpful video! I have a 2011 Durango Citadel with a V6 and AWD that developed this same problem two weeks ago. The procedure was identical (except for the metal skid plate and that vibration dampener, which my vehicle didn't have). I convinced myself to give it a whirl and was feeling like I had bitten off way more than I could chew when I found the service manual instructions that included removing the engine cradle. I was about to run out and secure an engine support when I ran across this video on 12/19/2020 (the same day it was posted!!!! -- so LUCKY). That drive shaft attachment to the differential was a ridiculous piece of engineering and I might have given up if it hadn't been for this video. I had to change my driver's side CV axle, so I ended up pulling it out entirely, which required removing the clevis bolt from the lower control arm where the strut was attached. I just went ahead and pulled both CV axles, simplifying the removal/install procedure of the differential. Just be sure to CAREFULLY disconnect the wheel speed sensor from the vehicle wiring harness and remove all clips/attachment to the frame. Leave it in the knuckle and just tie it up. I broke off the first one I tried to remove from the knuckle and had to get a new one (along with a wiring harness connector that I also managed to break). Despite all that, I saved a bunch of money doing this myself and would have had a lot more frustration completing the job if it hadn't been for this great video. THANKS!!!!
To help with those springs on seals, I use about a finger full of grease on the backside of them, spread it around the whole spring and it will stay put. The grease won't hurt anything in there and does a damn good job. cheers!
I've been a longtime watcher on this channel and i just wanted to say you are amazing. Your videos helped remove the illustration that only the dealership or mechanics can do these sorts of jobs. I've actually jumped straight into the deep end and decided to start a restoration of a 1968 mustang (my dream car). I often find your videos to be a good inspiration to work on some of the more "frightening" aspects. Again i just wanted to say your channel is awesome!!
Not sure why, but your videos are addictive as can be. I'm happy to see you have a bunch of subscribers! I wrench for a living and have no faults with what you do. Thanks for the quality content and happy Christmas.
As somebody who replaced diff bushings on a 06 WK (similar) and struts and unit bearings on a 14 durango RT… I feel your pain. Only suggestion. You did the sway bar. Just unbolt the strut. Get more knuckle pull out to get the axle out. Allows the lower arm to drop. I found out how shitty this all could be because the passenger unit bearing was seized to the knuckle. I had to remove it completely. Vice. Air chisel. Real stuck. After doing all that, i would have just put new outer TREs on too. But great series on this. Had a buddy who did this on his wifes GC. He dropped the cradle. Shop cranes/lifts. Lol. I would have done this.
Hopefully you you took a look at the seals on the old rack so you could tell us their part numbers or specifications so some of us can just replace the leaky seal like you mentioned at the beginning of part 1.
Thank you so much for this, my 2011 Durango appears to have the same issue. and the Dealership is wants $3400 to fix this and a leaking engine oil pan. which is crazy money. So like you i am looking to see if i can do it myself.
The cost of parts and labor from most shops will usually cover the cost of buying DIY tools. Research DIY repairs and source quality discount parts and you’ll end up with repairs you can be proud of and rest easy knowing it was done correctly.
This is timely because my SRT4 steering rack is leaking - shop wants around $600 to fix - not sure if that includes a reman rack or what. Maybe I'll just "stop by" one day with the part in hand and see if it magically gets fixed in your garage :D
Concerning torc is only important on engine components like piston rods or heads ,other than that a good wap of a air or electric impact gun is sufficient enough too hold any bolt otherwise
No means a criticism, just a question. At 16:53 you said the front of the tire had 65½" measured, and the rear had 64½", which you refer to as an inch of "toe-in". Am I wrong to think that should be "toe-out"? Never done an alignment before, so not sure if I'm crazy.
You are totally correct! I misspoke there. The actual measurement was 65 1/2" at the rear and 64 1/2" at the front (just double checked my notes to make sure). I managed to flip those around when doing the voiceover, if what I SAID was correct that would indeed be toe out
Just did this job. Except I lifted the motor mount bolts. And lifted motor a bit and the rack slid in. Questions, I have weird vibration at certain speeds. Never removed the tcase and I replaced cv axles. Any ideas ?
For all my vehicles I have the Haynes manuals, which you can usually get cheap (used copies for like $5 in some cases) and have a lot of specs and info, but not all. A lot of the time if you just need a few numbers you can find them on online forums too. You always have to proceed with caution though because I have seen Haynes, Chilton's, factory service manuals, and plenty of online posts giving wrong numbers. For the Durango I couldn't find much of anything online for free, I ended up with a digital copy of the factory service manual for $20 or so since a Haynes manual was about the same price in that case.
Oh i remember this front differential, its a pain in the ass from ZF. Also made it into some Mercedes Cars. If you ever need to repair this one i can help you, did a few myself! Also any other Mercedes rear differential.
I hate ordering anything anymore, it takes forever, and if you do get it, the 500 pound gorillas they have working in the shipping departments treat packages like the suitcases in the old samsonite commercials in the 70s
For those of you who noticed, yes, this video is a week late! The next upload will be an update video and one of the things to talk about is the scheduling of uploads. The idea is to get more of the car videos everyone is asking for without losing my mind in the process of making them.
This was a difficult edit because I wanted to keep in most details so that it would be informative enough to guide someone through a job like this and save them some time avoiding the issues I had, but also not so repetitive and slow moving that anyone else would totally lose interest. Hopefully this trial and error journey is at least a little interesting to some of you out there!
You've got a schedule?! Seriously, I watch when I get the notification & when I have a free moment - like a Sunday evening. Doing something like this in the "comfort" of your own garage as opposed to a fully equipped shop is going to come with challenges - let alone recording & editing it for TH-cam. I might be one of the few that will say "upload when you can", but that's exactly what I say. I have plenty of time, all things considered. :) #2020
@@lateefcarrere1649 Yeah normally Fuzzy uploads every 2 weeks on Saturdays.
I think that, even buying all of the tools new for the first time to do this job, you'd save am impressive amount of money
Quick tip for you: the next time you have to do an alignment, pulling those clamps off is one good way to loosen the boot, but WD-40 goes a long way towards making them slip more on the tie rod, and make your job easier.
Thanks so much for posting this thorough and helpful video! I have a 2011 Durango Citadel with a V6 and AWD that developed this same problem two weeks ago. The procedure was identical (except for the metal skid plate and that vibration dampener, which my vehicle didn't have). I convinced myself to give it a whirl and was feeling like I had bitten off way more than I could chew when I found the service manual instructions that included removing the engine cradle. I was about to run out and secure an engine support when I ran across this video on 12/19/2020 (the same day it was posted!!!! -- so LUCKY). That drive shaft attachment to the differential was a ridiculous piece of engineering and I might have given up if it hadn't been for this video. I had to change my driver's side CV axle, so I ended up pulling it out entirely, which required removing the clevis bolt from the lower control arm where the strut was attached. I just went ahead and pulled both CV axles, simplifying the removal/install procedure of the differential. Just be sure to CAREFULLY disconnect the wheel speed sensor from the vehicle wiring harness and remove all clips/attachment to the frame. Leave it in the knuckle and just tie it up. I broke off the first one I tried to remove from the knuckle and had to get a new one (along with a wiring harness connector that I also managed to break). Despite all that, I saved a bunch of money doing this myself and would have had a lot more frustration completing the job if it hadn't been for this great video. THANKS!!!!
To help with those springs on seals, I use about a finger full of grease on the backside of them, spread it around the whole spring and it will stay put. The grease won't hurt anything in there and does a damn good job. cheers!
I've been a longtime watcher on this channel and i just wanted to say you are amazing. Your videos helped remove the illustration that only the dealership or mechanics can do these sorts of jobs. I've actually jumped straight into the deep end and decided to start a restoration of a 1968 mustang (my dream car). I often find your videos to be a good inspiration to work on some of the more "frightening" aspects. Again i just wanted to say your channel is awesome!!
About time a TH-camr in Maryland
Your vids are worth the wait for sure
Not sure why, but your videos are addictive as can be. I'm happy to see you have a bunch of subscribers! I wrench for a living and have no faults with what you do. Thanks for the quality content and happy Christmas.
Seeing that spring seal retainer made me shudder. I've fought with those before, too.
At 13:05, another way to hold the axles from turning is to stick a tapered punch in the slots in the rotor and brace it against the caliper bracket
As somebody who replaced diff bushings on a 06 WK (similar) and struts and unit bearings on a 14 durango RT… I feel your pain. Only suggestion. You did the sway bar. Just unbolt the strut. Get more knuckle pull out to get the axle out. Allows the lower arm to drop. I found out how shitty this all could be because the passenger unit bearing was seized to the knuckle. I had to remove it completely. Vice. Air chisel. Real stuck. After doing all that, i would have just put new outer TREs on too. But great series on this. Had a buddy who did this on his wifes GC. He dropped the cradle. Shop cranes/lifts. Lol. I would have done this.
Hopefully you you took a look at the seals on the old rack so you could tell us their part numbers or specifications so some of us can just replace the leaky seal like you mentioned at the beginning of part 1.
All I can say is WOW. GREAT JOB
Thanks for these videos. Very helpful.
Thank you so much for this, my 2011 Durango appears to have the same issue. and the Dealership is wants $3400 to fix this and a leaking engine oil pan. which is crazy money. So like you i am looking to see if i can do it myself.
I suspect the FSM states that insane method to discourage DIY. I mean remove engine mounts?! Lol, it’s not a Ferrari!
Hey there man, glad to watch your videos again!
The cost of parts and labor from most shops will usually cover the cost of buying DIY tools.
Research DIY repairs and source quality discount parts and you’ll end up with repairs you can be proud of and rest easy knowing it was done correctly.
It's almost 00:00 here in Vietnam, but might as well :D
This is timely because my SRT4 steering rack is leaking - shop wants around $600 to fix - not sure if that includes a reman rack or what. Maybe I'll just "stop by" one day with the part in hand and see if it magically gets fixed in your garage :D
Nice, a Saturday morning vid
soon doing your own work on the car will be history
Concerning torc is only important on engine components like piston rods or heads ,other than that a good wap of a air or electric impact gun is sufficient enough too hold any bolt otherwise
Thanks for sharing, Merry Christmas
Great video.
Very good job 👍
Do you know how change repair kit steering rack piston please?
The flip flops get me everytime. S10 fender please.
No means a criticism, just a question.
At 16:53 you said the front of the tire had 65½" measured, and the rear had 64½", which you refer to as an inch of "toe-in".
Am I wrong to think that should be "toe-out"? Never done an alignment before, so not sure if I'm crazy.
You are totally correct! I misspoke there. The actual measurement was 65 1/2" at the rear and 64 1/2" at the front (just double checked my notes to make sure). I managed to flip those around when doing the voiceover, if what I SAID was correct that would indeed be toe out
@@FuzzyDiceProjects No problem, just sounded weird, listened to it a few times to make sure. Great video!
Just did this job. Except I lifted the motor mount bolts. And lifted motor a bit and the rack slid in. Questions, I have weird vibration at certain speeds. Never removed the tcase and I replaced cv axles. Any ideas ?
Love it - brilliant!
0:38 Mando Corp... this is the way.
Whats your thoughts of these years Durango's? as I consider to get one myself.
Even though you replaced the parts, I hope you still hit up the shipping company for compensation.
Nothing says safety like flip flops in the shop lol
Great work , were do you find all of those torque specs, I have a heck of a time trying to find thenlm
For all my vehicles I have the Haynes manuals, which you can usually get cheap (used copies for like $5 in some cases) and have a lot of specs and info, but not all. A lot of the time if you just need a few numbers you can find them on online forums too. You always have to proceed with caution though because I have seen Haynes, Chilton's, factory service manuals, and plenty of online posts giving wrong numbers.
For the Durango I couldn't find much of anything online for free, I ended up with a digital copy of the factory service manual for $20 or so since a Haynes manual was about the same price in that case.
Dear Fuzzy Dice Projects, will we see more episodes regarding Datsun project? :)
How long did it actually take you to do the rack? Man hours?
I think you got your front/ rear measurements backwards on you initial measurement.
Love form india
greatbwork
I would have made them send me a new rack.. for what the rack cost it should be in perfect condition when you get it
Oh i remember this front differential, its a pain in the ass from ZF. Also made it into some Mercedes Cars. If you ever need to repair this one i can help you, did a few myself! Also any other Mercedes rear differential.
Ight, now fix a front cover oil leak on a 6.7L Powerstroke
I think it's time for you to get a lift.
Honestly yeah, even just one of those floor lifts that just lift the car up a few feet
2 long ass vids to change a steering rack.damn.modern cars what can I say.
I hate ordering anything anymore, it takes forever, and if you do get it, the 500 pound gorillas they have working in the shipping departments treat packages like the suitcases in the old samsonite commercials in the 70s
Second
I mean first
Paid a grand at the dealership 🤬😠