Thanks, I am restoring a 1948 Motorola 6-tube AM receiver that I picked up. I didn’t intend for it to become a hobby but it’s turning into one. All of the caps are melted and the insulation is so badly damaged that I think it shorted at some point and fried everything. This is helpful. Very detailed explanation of how everything is done and how it all fits together.
He Seth, just a fab repair from start to finish..Me being a newbie as well, this sure has answered a few questions. Great video and instruction...keep em' coming..Ed..uk..😁
I had a similar Emerson radio like this years ago. The cabinet was bakelite without the patterns sen here. The dial was more art deco too. Maybe I had an older model ?
Safety test? "how much current is really getting to that chassis" ? Below 6/10 of a volt? Would that be to ground? "I have a box which reverses the polarity"? 4/10 of a volt is good? Why? An explanation of this procedure might be useful.
Ha, an Emerson model 518 with Arvin knobs. They would be rather loose so they bent the tangs wider on the two pots so they wouldn't slip off. Dang OCD strikes again for noticing that! Like these longer more descriptive and thorough videos. At 33:49 those black "doomajigies" are called a strain relief . They actually have tons of sizes but the line cord that is preferred is called a SPT-1. Thinner and easier to work line cord for a lower wattage unfortunately you have the more common SPT-2 line cord and is better for transformer type radios. It is used for extension cords too. Strain reliefs like 6N-4 ,6N3-4 are used for SPT-1 and 6L-1 or a 7N-2 for the SPT-2 cords. They make a special tool that keeps you from breaking any strain relief . See Philmore 63-640, I have one and it works great. A 50B5 was used in these because they didn't change the circuits when they went to two miniature tubes in a later manufacturing run. Originally it was a 50L6. A 35Z5 got replaced by a 35W4. I'm glad I'm not a newbie because I would be so confused. Steve
I run into so few strain reliefs any more, that I never bought the tool. However every time I pinch my hand when the pliers slips off wish I had the tool.
Mister Radio you can still buy brand new paper capacitors Tube Depot sells them how long you think they last? Some people might want keep radio look more original new paper caps.
I really wish you would show examples of how you wire the input cord. It seems like every video I watch you do that, you do it a different way. Maybe some actually drawn schematics will help? With examples of the different cases. Sources for the transformers would be nice also, you showed the box and a vague website but it would be nice to know what you actually ordered and where you got them from.
I just found your video and it was incredibly informing. I just rehabbed a zenith AA5, including an output IF can. I'm getting an approximate two kilohertz tone that's very loud between stations. I've traced it to before the volume control and it's actually louder than the stations themselves. Any thoughts or a direction you might be able to point me in? Thanks for the great video
Fantastic video. I have a Hallicrafters SX-73 and some of the back terminal thumb screws have a little green corrosion. Would you be concerned in that case?
Mister Radio isn't it true you want go higher in voltage not lower when recapping those radios? Also I have a electrolytic that says 30mfd 30mfd 20mfd 20mfd then it says 150 w.v,yel 150w.vred 150w.v blue 25w.v green what voltage and and microfarad capacitor recommend replace it with?
I have a zenith 5 tube clock radio that has a couple caps with 100 on one side and 22,5 on the other. They are relatively small so I am thinking 22.5 MFD is not what it is. Could it be 22.5 pico farad?
So a strong enough jolt of electricity can cause a heart to stop beating normally, and cause it to go into Ventricular Fibrillation. This means the ventricles are QUIVERING, and not pumping blood. If a regular heart beat rhythm is not quickly restored. The person will die. So surprisingly, another jolt from a defibrillator, can usually shock the heart back into a normal rhythm. Our hearts actually function on electrical activity.
I love it when Seth uses WD40 - he should have a 'trigger alert' for it just like Eric of South Main Auto does whenever he's about to use Brake Cleaner. The horror of it all. (Oh, and, why, yes, I am an electrician with decades of experience using WD40 and not once a recall because of it. But, then, why would people who actually DO instead of just sitting on their momma's couch in the basement know anything?)
Im looking at a schematic and a parts list here, Its got 8 paper, 1 electrolytic, two micas, and one variable capacitor. apparently I shouldn't worry about the micas, but all the papers are labled as "mf", Is that Millifarad? The radio is a 4 tube superheterodyne battery unit. 1.5v A voltage and 90v B voltage. there does not seem to be any way to connect to the grid, or a rectifier, so its a fully dc radio. I know the papers have to go, and the electrolytic, But what about the tuning capacitor? The radio in question is a Galvin/Motorola 47B11
Bakelite? These radios 📻 are often 5 tube. The speaker 🔊 must be field coil. I wonder 💭 why these weren’t called 📞 “Christmas Tree 🌲 Light 💡 Sets”, regarding the special circuitry these radios 📻 have. Power 💥 is cut to the WHOLE radio 📻, in the event of the failure 😞 of the dial light 💡 bulb. This is often where owners would draw ✍️ the line on even thinking 🤔 of repairing 👩🔧 the radio 📻. They thought 💭 it was the end of the line for the radio 📻. This often misunderstood “OFF” feature, guarded 💂♀️ against radio 📻 damage, electric ⚡️ shock, or fire 🔥. Your friend, Jeff.
Hello Seth. One thing you really need to tell a newbie (I would be a novice) is to discharge their caps before messing around with cutting them out, for safety's sake. As most of us know, those things can hold a charge, and can give you a nasty surprise if not handled correctly. I use a resistor and a couple of alligator clip wires to discharge caps, cheap and cheerful, perfect thing for anyone looking to outfit an inexpensive radio repair kit. Full disclosure; I've never had my hands inside a tube unit, but have had my hands on many electronics (mostly computer boards and cards), but would still discharge any and all caps before messing around with them, just in case.
I get capacitors and resistors either from mouser or from Sal's capacitor corner. Switches from Amazon, transformers from Alibaba. Tubes can be had for cheap on Ebay
Lost interest early into the video. Reason being, your bench looks like it is intended to rebuild automotive engines, and rebuilding radios, is a side line. The tool chest in the background, loose pieces parts in and under the chest, and absolutely no real test equipment. Sorry, but that's the way I see it.
Thanks,
I am restoring a 1948 Motorola 6-tube AM receiver that I picked up. I didn’t intend for it to become a hobby but it’s turning into one. All of the caps are melted and the insulation is so badly damaged that I think it shorted at some point and fried everything. This is helpful. Very detailed explanation of how everything is done and how it all fits together.
He Seth, just a fab repair from start to finish..Me being a newbie as well, this sure has answered a few questions. Great video and instruction...keep em' coming..Ed..uk..😁
Thanks a lot Ed! Take care over there!
Thanks so much for showing a more in depth way you repair your radios.
It was cool!
I believe some vintage valve(tube) radios used to use the pilot lamp(s) as a fuse. So if the pilot lamp(s) failed, no electrical continuity.
Mister Radio it is cool when you put Jack on the radio for a cellphone to listen to music
I had a similar Emerson radio like this years ago. The cabinet was bakelite without the patterns sen here. The dial was more art deco too. Maybe I had an older model ?
Safety test? "how much current is really getting to that chassis" ? Below 6/10 of a volt? Would that be to ground? "I have a box which reverses the polarity"? 4/10 of a volt is good? Why? An explanation of this procedure might be useful.
Ha, an Emerson model 518 with Arvin knobs. They would be rather loose so they bent the tangs wider on the
two pots so they wouldn't slip off. Dang OCD strikes again for noticing that! Like these longer more descriptive and
thorough videos. At 33:49 those black "doomajigies" are called a strain relief . They actually have tons of sizes but the
line cord that is preferred is called a SPT-1. Thinner and easier to work line cord for a lower wattage unfortunately
you have the more common SPT-2 line cord and is better for transformer type radios. It is used for extension cords too.
Strain reliefs like 6N-4 ,6N3-4 are used for SPT-1 and 6L-1 or a 7N-2 for the SPT-2 cords. They make a special tool that
keeps you from breaking any strain relief . See Philmore 63-640, I have one and it works great. A 50B5 was used in these because they didn't change the circuits when they went to two miniature tubes in a later manufacturing run. Originally
it was a 50L6. A 35Z5 got replaced by a 35W4. I'm glad I'm not a newbie because I would be so confused. Steve
I run into so few strain reliefs any more, that I never bought the tool. However every time I pinch my hand when the pliers slips off wish I had the tool.
Thanks for your this. I’ll definitely watch it
Mister Radio you can still buy brand new paper capacitors Tube Depot sells them how long you think they last? Some people might want keep radio look more original new paper caps.
No alignment? No douching the tuning cap?
Mrster radio all American 5 radio Receiver with broadcast band is good for DXing at night
Could you please, share a schematic of your Bluetooth wiring?
Regards
I really wish you would show examples of how you wire the input cord. It seems like every video I watch you do that, you do it a different way. Maybe some actually drawn schematics will help? With examples of the different cases. Sources for the transformers would be nice also, you showed the box and a vague website but it would be nice to know what you actually ordered and where you got them from.
Thanos for the input. I will try to draw somethign for the upcoming episode
Great video! Is that a YDHC isolation transformer for the bluetooth portion?
Mister Radio the 1947 ALL American 5 radio Receiver is cool
I just found your video and it was incredibly informing. I just rehabbed a zenith AA5, including an output IF can. I'm getting an approximate two kilohertz tone that's very loud between stations. I've traced it to before the volume control and it's actually louder than the stations themselves. Any thoughts or a direction you might be able to point me in? Thanks for the great video
Fantastic video. I have a Hallicrafters SX-73 and some of the back terminal thumb screws have a little green corrosion. Would you be concerned in that case?
Which brand of solder do you use ? Kester ? Other ?
Hi what was the part number on that little isolation transformer you used?
Mister Radio isn't it true you want go higher in voltage not lower when recapping those radios? Also I have a electrolytic that says 30mfd 30mfd 20mfd 20mfd then it says 150 w.v,yel 150w.vred 150w.v blue 25w.v green what voltage and and microfarad capacitor recommend replace it with?
I have a zenith 5 tube clock radio that has a couple caps with 100 on one side and 22,5 on the other. They are relatively small so I am thinking 22.5 MFD is not what it is. Could it be 22.5 pico farad?
If I want to learn more about this, are there any books I can pick up that you would suggest I read and study ?
Hello, on the isolation transformer, what is the supplier and part number? Schematic? BTW, nice work …
So a strong enough jolt of electricity can cause a heart to stop beating normally, and cause it to go into Ventricular Fibrillation. This means the ventricles are QUIVERING, and not pumping blood. If a regular heart beat rhythm is not quickly restored. The person will die. So surprisingly, another jolt from a defibrillator, can usually shock the heart back into a normal rhythm. Our hearts actually function on electrical activity.
The yellow caps you are using as replacements, by chance are they Mylar ?
I love it when Seth uses WD40 - he should have a 'trigger alert' for it just like Eric of South Main Auto does whenever he's about to use Brake Cleaner.
The horror of it all.
(Oh, and, why, yes, I am an electrician with decades of experience using WD40 and not once a recall because of it. But, then, why would people who actually DO instead of just sitting on their momma's couch in the basement know anything?)
Saludos Maestro:
Buen Video.
Un Cordial Saludo desde Cuba.
Yo Tengo una RCA de ondas cortes del ano 1936, y puedo recibir Grandma muy bueno durante las noches.
Saludo desde Nueva York.
Se puede verlo en you tube
The new capacitors are so much smaller ...
Im looking at a schematic and a parts list here, Its got 8 paper, 1 electrolytic, two micas, and one variable capacitor. apparently I shouldn't worry about the micas, but all the papers are labled as "mf", Is that Millifarad? The radio is a 4 tube superheterodyne battery unit. 1.5v A voltage and 90v B voltage. there does not seem to be any way to connect to the grid, or a rectifier, so its a fully dc radio. I know the papers have to go, and the electrolytic, But what about the tuning capacitor? The radio in question is a Galvin/Motorola 47B11
Anyone know how to rewire a loop stick antenna?
Have you ever used a permanent mounted Bluetooth on a PCB mounted internally?
Not really, because the quality of these bluetooth things are not great. I would rather make it easier for the user to swap whatever out if needed
Mrster radio all American 5 radio Receiver is cool
Bakelite? These radios 📻 are often 5 tube. The speaker 🔊 must be field coil. I wonder 💭 why these weren’t called 📞 “Christmas Tree 🌲 Light 💡 Sets”, regarding the special circuitry these radios 📻 have. Power 💥 is cut to the WHOLE radio 📻, in the event of the failure 😞 of the dial light 💡 bulb. This is often where owners would draw ✍️ the line on even thinking 🤔 of repairing 👩🔧 the radio 📻. They thought 💭 it was the end of the line for the radio 📻. This often misunderstood “OFF” feature, guarded 💂♀️ against radio 📻 damage, electric ⚡️ shock, or fire 🔥. Your friend, Jeff.
Hello Seth. One thing you really need to tell a newbie (I would be a novice) is to discharge their caps before messing around with cutting them out, for safety's sake. As most of us know, those things can hold a charge, and can give you a nasty surprise if not handled correctly. I use a resistor and a couple of alligator clip wires to discharge caps, cheap and cheerful, perfect thing for anyone looking to outfit an inexpensive radio repair kit. Full disclosure; I've never had my hands inside a tube unit, but have had my hands on many electronics (mostly computer boards and cards), but would still discharge any and all caps before messing around with them, just in case.
Yes. That is true. Luckily, unless for example electrolytics are not grounded properly , they seldom hold a charge
Seth, where do you get your replacement parts?
I get capacitors and resistors either from mouser or from Sal's capacitor corner. Switches from Amazon, transformers from Alibaba. Tubes can be had for cheap on Ebay
Is that T- rez??
Out in the yard? Yeah. We have a 7 foot tall plastic dinasaur in the yard
Why would youpower up before re-capping? Nothing good can happen. Besides, you're gonna re-cap anyway.
No ongoing commentary on cap polarity on a case by case, no inkling of which modern style is the appropriate replacement. No suggestion for sources.
you make isotonic mistakes because your a little on the sloppy side
Lost interest early into the video. Reason being, your bench looks like it is intended to rebuild automotive engines, and rebuilding radios, is a side line. The tool chest in the background, loose pieces parts in and under the chest, and absolutely no real test equipment. Sorry, but that's the way I see it.
Why are you twisting two electrolytics whe. The original circuit obviously used two separate caps?
Dash Daring is my new Xbox live name.