Another electronic resurrection for D Lab. It may not be a very expensive or highly sought after radio, but none the less, its still a wonderful little piece of radio history that can function as intended once again thanks to D Lab. Good job Terry, I love those old little radios.
Thank you Scott, I had fun working on it. Hate to see them get tossed out. If not for the vid shoot time, I could have performed the complete repair in about 1 hour. Great hobby!
Nice shop area. I was always amazed in people who worked in very messy areas. I remember seeing lots of table radios going for $1.50 to $5.00 in the 1980’s. Not anymore! I still have some ARC5 stuff to get to one day.
I have one of those Tenma isolation/variac units. It is great, but shipping was a killer on it. It is very heavy. Thanks for this and all your videos, Terry. I appreciate your efforts to educate/entertain me. I have learned a lot from you. You are part of what is good on the internet and TH-cam.
Thank you for the mini tutorial! I have several old sets from the 1920's on and they all need some work. I especially like your method for replacing the electrolytic filter capacitor, I will be using it myself!
Great job. .. enjoy your videos. . . .I just got through restoring a Clarion AM Farm radio. . . Ended up putting a homemade power supply inside the case to replace the 90Volt plate voltage and 1.5 volt filament voltage.
I like to replace the 35L6 with a 50L6. I think this prolongs the life of the tubes and lets the set run a bit cooler. Today's line voltages are higher than the older line voltages. (Yes I did see that radio would work on 120V, but line here is 125-130V. BTW, The real reason radios hum is they don't know the words to the song. :)
The tube characteristics aren't identical; the 50L6 is a higher gain and higher power tube, and has different bias points for the same plate current. However, they are probably close enough to each other to work in most circuits, especially if you use a slightly weak 50L6.
@@lwilton I've never seen a situation where that substitution wouldn't work ok in a radio like this. These sets are notoriously uncritical. Problem is that the heater voltage is now pushed up to 133, which means the heater voltage will be about 10% too low. This is enough to reduce emmission in the output tube, so even a new 50L6 is going to be "slightly weak" in that circuit.
I have picked up a lot of tips and general tube servicing ideas over the many videos you have made. Our mains is 230 V so we didn't see the hot-chassis models here like you have in the US but it is interesting to see how they used series filaments to achieve operation without a transformer.
These are the kind of radios I love, easy fix, tubes, caps and maybe a resistor or 2 then wa la, it works. Then there are the radios when after the recap and tube check etc. ...... static, ugh, then comes the challenge of troubleshooting. Looking forward to seeing some D-lab wine inspired troubleshooting vids...... AND, still would like to see D-lab's how-to on making hot-chassis safe.
I finally found a Tenma 72-1095 a couple months ago. I need to clean and lubricate it but it works great with my dim bulb device. Picked up an RCA 26x-3 yesterday - it has an asbestos pad. :( another great video Terry.
Paul Reiter - Sounds familiar. I have two radios in the queue with asbestos pads, a RCA A23 and its bigger brother an M-47A. I know of two approaches to this issue, leave it alone and stabilize it with a liquid compound or remove it altogether. I still have not decided which way to go on this. Cheers,
From Leo: Great repair, I kind of thought I would see you spaghetti the leads on the epoxy drop caps. I was cleaning up and found an old jar of varnish coated cloth braid spaghetti and a dried solid bottle of corona dope. Not many people remember that was a part of radio/TV service bench.
It does help us novices to watch you installing the parts I recapped several radios buy watching techs.like you ,thanks,Working on radios.are more fun then most kit building ,besides I love tube radios.and your safety tips.
Howdy Terry .. A friend of mine was just given an old AM radio .. I think it likely has a few dead tubes (doesn't power up) or something else is wrong. I noticed the wax caps all look deformed. A no transformer type. Pretty sure it may be like yours and all the filaments will add up to equal the source. The big old filter cap is on its side and has 3 wires coming out of one end. I could see Red, Green and other words on the filter cap, but couldn't see it all that well. The band is riveted to the case. There is also what looks to be vertical wax coils and two or three metal canister type coils. Quite a beast. There is an old record player that goes on the top.
We've all been theorizing that Shortwave Girl did the actual soldering whilst you sat back with a glass of wine. She's taught you well. Nice joint. That radio looks a bit like my Crosley 56TV-0. Purists! He modified the chassis!!!
I remember buying a cool old Philco AM/ST console radio at a garage sale when I was a kid. It got one or two stations.. I also picked up an old tv.. The tubes were just plain cool. Those were the days before youtube had a video for everything. I still think transistors and crystal radios are highly misunderstood. I think energy is unlimited. No-one has to plug in the earth for it to spin. A little mix of old school tech and new school tech and next thing you know were are living in the golden age. No war. No poverty. No lack. No money. No need for money when all our needs are met in real time
Love this demo, I can understand what you are doing now. I like the lesson about power transformer and no transformer. I also watched the one before with a transformer. Great job.
This one is a bit of a Heinz 57. It has a ground bus similar to a Stromberg-Carlson (eg. #561) and a mish-mash of mini-9 pin and octal tubes. I wonder if the 9 pins were a later addition (like a mod) or the radio was made that way... Looks like the chassis was punched for all octal sockets... And the overall physical makeup is a lot like an RCA 12X type... Thanks for the ride along on this one. Cheers,
It didn't look to me like it had had a previous rebuild, so it was probably original. I'd date it to the mid 1950s. Miniature tubes started becoming popular after WW II, and having a mix was pretty common.
@@lwilton - I agree. It's most likely all original. I was looking at how the case was stamped; it was stamped for octal sockets then modified later to adapt to mini 9-pin sockets. I guess it was cheaper to use up existing stock then to re-stamp new chassis. It is likely this radio was being built through the octal-9pin transition time period which is interesting.
Dam you do such nice work ,and you make it look easy ,I no not it not ,but everyone will have to have a first time.then It might get easy ,I love your fix for replacing that filter cap.always learn something from you.
Interesting & fun video. It might be interesting to your viewers to explain how a superheterodyne radio works and the advantages over a super regenerative radio. Also tuning the IF circuit would be fun to see. PS: Liked the tube socket/capacitor fix.
Great vid, Terry! Inspiring me to get my hands dirty again after a long time. I have a 1950s Regency Monitoradio VHF-high receiver that I acquired at a flea market years ago that only makes static noise. I'm going to buckle down and try to revive it. Love your videos!
The J hook method makes a lot of sense if your shipping radios out, I got a philco model 70, and the first thing I noticed it worked intermediately, popped the chassis out and there was a bad solder joint that had worked loose since I got it home
I love this method and sometimes I can get a org can over them with a touch of hot glue I always write when it was serviced and when it was done as well hopefully we can save these cool radios for another 50- 60 years I’m working on a 1927 Kent Atwater 40 came with the org field coil speaker with a huge seladium rectifier and it works but I need to replace all caps and I wanted to add a switch for a audio input for Bluetooth or CD player I’m going to have to look at some of your videos on that one if you do
Good video, I repair and restore radios like that too. You are just like me, fix the radio and have a glass of wine to top off the repair and enjoying the results. Keep up the good job!! Don"O"
I don't use the hook and pinch method of connecting the parts I find winding the parts into a coil works just as good and helps if you need to take the parts out. But all in all a great video for beginners.
I owned a shortwave receiver wired like that in the 60's .while connecting a wire antenna to cold water pipe I discovered electricity! During power up first couple filaments burned bright then slowly went dim until sig was established...wwv and voice of America were there..and a few UK broadcasts too.
Interesting in that the cabinet style looked pre-WWII but it runs mostly postwar tubes. Nice and spacious underneath to make recapping easier. Aircastle was Spiegal Catalog Stores House brand. Jobber sets could have been made by any of several factories
...my dad had a TV & radio repair business in the 50s & 60s...and into the early 70s. I grew up in his shop (Fort Lee, NJ) learning how to diagnose & fix problems with these little five tube radios....most all of the folks who brought them in for repair were in their late 20s to 60s (I guessed) in those days at the ages of 7 or 8 to early teens everyone was old (like I am now - almost 72). I used'ta know all the tubes by number..forgot most of them now - (IIRC 6 SN7 & 12 BE6)...if the sound was describes as 'scratchy' - it was the RF (or IF???) filters - if it had a 'loud hum' it was a bad filter
I'm restoring an old Sparton Tube radio circa 1946 and ran across something on the schematic that I have never seen before. The last resistor listed says R18 2700 ohms 5. w. w. w.. All the other resistors show the ohm value and watt value as an example R4 100 ohms .5w etc. My question is what does it mean when there are 3 "w" s like that? I went ahead and replaced the R18 with a 2700 ohm 5 watt resistor. The radio works and I have the proper voltages but the resistor is getting extremely hot. Any thoughts, ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
You can safely touch that chassis if you make sure to plug the plug in with the chassis side to neutral, and make sure you're not touching any metal connecting to the house or ground. One way to prevent incorrect plugging in is to replace the plug or whole wire with a polarized one, and make sure the wide side of the plug wire is the one to the chassis. Yet, being safe is never a bad idea. Very nicely done. Do you realign the radio when you finish recapping? Though it sounds lie it doesn't need it.
Very good information, Thumbs up, I like the first part. Any idea on a whites 5900 di pro sl can be fixed if the meter only reads half way, even with different coils and solid silver? tks in advance.
Nice vid, but I understand that replacing the electro. cap with multiple non-elctro. caps adding to equivalent capacitance and assuming their voltages match the original electrolytic, is not ideal and could lead to other problems. Also I would test the other tubes for emission, short, and grid leakage.
Great job! Next time, before you heat shrink the caps, cut a one inch disk of fiche paper to put in the top to hide the caps and insulate the cans from probing fingers.
Nice box but why fix it , a receiver is there to receive and other than talk radio what is there ? Also had a Beckman DVM liked it especially the size of the battery pack
Hello, Yes, I agree, the radio has little value. The vid was just for a bit of fun and to share technology. I have 3 of the Beckman bench meters. They were very pricey back in the day. Still perform very well for this type of work.
Do you bother to make sure the foil end of new caps are aligned the same as the originals? I know modern caps don't usually have a foil end marked, but it's not hard to determine which end is which if you have a 'scope handy.
@@johnstone7697 In the spirit of one of the comments before yours, if you do hand wire it make sure you don't leave any stresses on the component leads after you solder them or the molecular alignment of the leads and even the dielectric can be altered which as we all know, changes the sound.................Right? (who needs emoticons when you can make somebody vomit with mere words?)
I have a Western Auto upright case. I'd love to see a video on building a working chassis that can go in a gutted case and bring it back to working status. Any ideas? Tubes preferred. 73 K4RJJ
@@d-labelectronics I do it all the time, but you must only use the Bluetooth in the battery mode, not with a power supply. OR, you can rewire your radio with a polarized cord and tie the wide blade side to chassis (or "low side, B-") and put the "hot' side thru the power switch. Most of those radios had the power switch in the low side path.
I had one of those Aerovox wax capacitors explode like a bomb when I had a tube radio powered up outside of its case on the bench. Honestly, it was as loud as a gun, and hurt my ears!
Great Vid!! si I has a question if you could give me your thoughts? . i just purchased a sylvania model #339 NO SOUND at all absolute nothing complete silence ( i think on the internet it said it was a Marconi 339 model Possibly year 1951) the Question i have for you is::: my dad use to say that if a tube lights up, that means it( tube) is working fine???( his is NOT a repair guy by no means!!!, is this a good answer lol. i know all of the tubes in this radio lights and "warms" up ok. it has these tubes in it ,these numbers are ;;;; #12av6 #12be6 #12ba6 #5ol6gt #35w4, how do i know which one is the "audio" tube?. Also what impedance would my old speaker be ? 4 ohms/ 6 ohms/8 ohms?? or what are your thoughts, BTW,I did spay contact cleaner/lubricant that i purchased at a electronic centre inside the volume control it. thank you in advance for your thoughts/ feedback
Cool video. So, is this radio basically an AA5 with an RF amp stage? And that's why the audio output tube is a 35L6, instead of a 50L6, to free up voltage to power 6 tube filaments off of 120 volts?
Please help me...I recapped a Sentinel 294T, replaced tubes with good ones, replaced some suspect resistors...all my tube voltages look good, I get sound on speaker, but no evidence of a 'tuning feeling'... The radio was missing an antenna, so I experimented with a long wire in several configurations with no improvement...the coils in the IF xfmrs tested continuous...idk what's going on but someone obviously tried repairing it...I didn't replace any square caps or all the resistors...any thoughts?? I don't want to assume mica disease and risk destroying radio
Great restoration of this vintage radio, I found this very informative.
🙏
Another electronic resurrection for D Lab. It may not be a very expensive or highly sought after radio, but none the less, its still a wonderful little piece of radio history that can function as intended once again thanks to D Lab. Good job Terry, I love those old little radios.
Thank you Scott, I had fun working on it. Hate to see them get tossed out. If not for the vid shoot time, I could have performed the complete repair in about 1 hour. Great hobby!
Nice shop area. I was always amazed in people who worked in very messy areas. I remember seeing lots of table radios going for $1.50 to $5.00 in the 1980’s. Not anymore! I still have some ARC5 stuff to get to one day.
Love the idea of using tube socket for "can" capacitors, brilliant!
Your video is a timely find with useful tips. I just started looking at a friend's Silvertone 1035-A suitcase radio/phonograph. Thank you!
Hello D-LAb ,i really enjoy your videos over the years. Unique presentation with tons of hummor . Keep the soldering iron burning!
Will do my friend
I have one of those Tenma isolation/variac units. It is great, but shipping was a killer on it. It is very heavy. Thanks for this and all your videos, Terry. I appreciate your efforts to educate/entertain me. I have learned a lot from you. You are part of what is good on the internet and TH-cam.
Thanks! I restore table top radios from the 1940s, and Golden Age jukeboxes. Always nice to see the old stuff pulled back from the abyss.
What a cool idea to use a tube socket to hold the replacement caps!
Lovely, its been decades since i heard someone speak about an AC/DC radio. Great job and video, as usual 🙂
Thanks for showing us more of the soldering process D Lab! Great video, can't wait for the next one!
Love the video! I like your restoration videos, Ham and broadcast radios!
Thank you for the mini tutorial! I have several old sets from the 1920's on and they all need some work. I especially like your method for replacing the electrolytic filter capacitor, I will be using it myself!
Great job. .. enjoy your videos. . . .I just got through restoring a Clarion AM Farm radio. . . Ended up putting a homemade power supply inside the case to replace the 90Volt plate voltage and 1.5 volt filament voltage.
I appreciate seeing some radio repair, it is more of my interest. I also appreciate the extra detail on the repairs and troubleshooting process.
I like to replace the 35L6 with a 50L6. I think this prolongs the life of the tubes and lets the set run a bit cooler. Today's line voltages are higher than the older line voltages. (Yes I did see that radio would work on 120V, but line here is 125-130V.
BTW,
The real reason radios hum is they don't know the words to the song. :)
Hey man, Thats a great idea, yes, the line voltage is much higher these days. I will give that a try.
The tube characteristics aren't identical; the 50L6 is a higher gain and higher power tube, and has different bias points for the same plate current. However, they are probably close enough to each other to work in most circuits, especially if you use a slightly weak 50L6.
@@lwilton I've never seen a situation where that substitution wouldn't work ok in a radio like this. These sets are notoriously uncritical. Problem is that the heater voltage is now pushed up to 133, which means the heater voltage will be about 10% too low. This is enough to reduce emmission in the output tube, so even a new 50L6 is going to be "slightly weak" in that circuit.
I have repaired dozens of these old AC DC radios in the last five decades! Most of them were 12be6,12ba6,12av6,35w4 and 50c5 radios.
I have picked up a lot of tips and general tube servicing ideas over the many videos you have made. Our mains is 230 V so we didn't see the hot-chassis models here like you have in the US but it is interesting to see how they used series filaments to achieve operation without a transformer.
These are the kind of radios I love, easy fix, tubes, caps and maybe a resistor or 2 then wa la, it works. Then there are the radios when after the recap and tube check etc. ...... static, ugh, then comes the challenge of troubleshooting. Looking forward to seeing some D-lab wine inspired troubleshooting vids...... AND, still would like to see D-lab's how-to on making hot-chassis safe.
Your power supply filter capacitor idea is great, I can think of two candidates here at my place.
Great video Terry
I finally found a Tenma 72-1095 a couple months ago. I need to clean and lubricate it but it works great with my dim bulb device. Picked up an RCA 26x-3 yesterday - it has an asbestos pad. :( another great video Terry.
Excellent. You will love that Tenma variac! A very reliable instrument
Paul Reiter - Sounds familiar. I have two radios in the queue with asbestos pads, a RCA A23 and its bigger brother an M-47A. I know of two approaches to this issue, leave it alone and stabilize it with a liquid compound or remove it altogether.
I still have not decided which way to go on this.
Cheers,
Did you put the dim bulb between the Tenma and device?
From Leo: Great repair, I kind of thought I would see you spaghetti the leads on the epoxy drop caps. I was cleaning up and found an old jar of varnish coated cloth braid spaghetti and a dried solid bottle of corona dope. Not many people remember that was a part of radio/TV service bench.
It does help us novices to watch you installing the parts I recapped several radios buy watching techs.like you ,thanks,Working on radios.are more fun then most kit building ,besides I love tube radios.and your safety tips.
Howdy Terry .. A friend of mine was just given an old AM radio .. I think it likely has a few dead tubes (doesn't power up) or something else is wrong. I noticed the wax caps all look deformed. A no transformer type. Pretty sure it may be like yours and all the filaments will add up to equal the source. The big old filter cap is on its side and has 3 wires coming out of one end. I could see Red, Green and other words on the filter cap, but couldn't see it all that well. The band is riveted to the case. There is also what looks to be vertical wax coils and two or three metal canister type coils. Quite a beast. There is an old record player that goes on the top.
That is the way I replace caps hook, pinch 7 solder.
Great repair Terry.
We've all been theorizing that Shortwave Girl did the actual soldering whilst you sat back with a glass of wine. She's taught you well. Nice joint. That radio looks a bit like my Crosley 56TV-0. Purists! He modified the chassis!!!
Loved the show Terry. I enjoy working on old classics like these myself. Just hard to find around here. Great job on the repair.
I remember buying a cool old Philco AM/ST console radio at a garage sale when I was a kid. It got one or two stations.. I also picked up an old tv.. The tubes were just plain cool. Those were the days before youtube had a video for everything. I still think transistors and crystal radios are highly misunderstood. I think energy is unlimited. No-one has to plug in the earth for it to spin. A little mix of old school tech and new school tech and next thing you know were are living in the golden age. No war. No poverty. No lack. No money. No need for money when all our needs are met in real time
Columbia Crest eh, will have to try this one and the repairs of course. Another great educational and inspirational video Terry. Thumbs up :)
Radio repair and red wine, that gets a big thumbs up from me. Great video as always!
I’d love to have it! Talk about blast from the past.
Very enjoyable video with a nice amount of humour. I have subscribed. 👍😆
Love this demo, I can understand what you are doing now. I like the lesson about power transformer and no transformer. I also watched the one before with a transformer. Great job.
This one is a bit of a Heinz 57. It has a ground bus similar to a Stromberg-Carlson (eg. #561) and a mish-mash of mini-9 pin and octal tubes. I wonder if the 9 pins were a later addition (like a mod) or the radio was made that way... Looks like the chassis was punched for all octal sockets... And the overall physical makeup is a lot like an RCA 12X type...
Thanks for the ride along on this one.
Cheers,
It didn't look to me like it had had a previous rebuild, so it was probably original. I'd date it to the mid 1950s. Miniature tubes started becoming popular after WW II, and having a mix was pretty common.
@@lwilton - I agree. It's most likely all original. I was looking at how the case was stamped; it was stamped for octal sockets then modified later to adapt to mini 9-pin sockets. I guess it was cheaper to use up existing stock then to re-stamp new chassis.
It is likely this radio was being built through the octal-9pin transition time period which is interesting.
Dam you do such nice work ,and you make it look easy ,I no not it not ,but everyone will have to have a first time.then It might get easy ,I love your fix for replacing that filter cap.always learn something from you.
Interesting & fun video. It might be interesting to your viewers to explain how a superheterodyne radio works and the advantages over a super regenerative radio. Also tuning the IF circuit would be fun to see. PS: Liked the tube socket/capacitor fix.
Great vid, Terry! Inspiring me to get my hands dirty again after a long time. I have a 1950s Regency Monitoradio VHF-high receiver that I acquired at a flea market years ago that only makes static noise. I'm going to buckle down and try to revive it. Love your videos!
Quick Draw McGraw cartoon, (horse)
@@rhondabailey4444 “Of all the heroes in legend and song, there's none as brave as El Kabong"
I liked this video. Please do more of the old am & some fm radios please.
Matron! Young Terry is out of bed again, and wandering the corridors!!! (Young Terry, "The Man"!)
Excellent explaining at the schematic with the filaments and line voltage. Great channel overall!
_Well done my friend._
The J hook method makes a lot of sense if your shipping radios out, I got a philco model 70, and the first thing I noticed it worked intermediately, popped the chassis out and there was a bad solder joint that had worked loose since I got it home
Interesting video. The poor radio has a new lease on life. Thank you for saving it.
I love this method and sometimes I can get a org can over them with a touch of hot glue
I always write when it was serviced and when it was done as well hopefully we can save these cool radios for another 50- 60 years
I’m working on a 1927 Kent Atwater 40 came with the org field coil speaker with a huge seladium rectifier and it works but I need to replace all caps and I wanted to add a switch for a audio input for Bluetooth or CD player I’m going to have to look at some of your videos on that one if you do
Good video, I repair and restore radios like that too. You are just like me, fix the radio and have a glass of wine to top off the repair and enjoying the results. Keep up the good job!! Don"O"
Great work!
….have a glass for me!!...another informative and entertaining video!!….. THANKS...
2 videos in a day? nice
You amaze me, cool show, thank you, D Labs!
Thank you my friend
Nice job!
Enjoyed the video. You really need to replace that wax cap on the antenna too though!
Great video. Not many people who get the Abbot and Costillo reference.
Yes Sir, I knew that would be a stretch. Always loved that routine. Thanks for remembering : )
it would be totally awesome to see a rebuild of the IF cans in regard to the mica caps in the cans
I believe Shango066 has done a video on this for a Zenith console stereo with tubes, and the repair was hard as hell.
I don't use the hook and pinch method of connecting the parts I find winding the parts into a coil works just as good and helps if you need to take the parts out. But all in all a great video for beginners.
You are officially loved by the brave little toaster my dude.
I raise a glass to you sir. Nice one. 🍷👍
Love it. Thank you!
I owned a shortwave receiver wired like that in the 60's .while connecting a wire antenna to cold water pipe I discovered electricity!
During power up first couple filaments burned bright then slowly went dim until sig was established...wwv and voice of America were there..and a few UK broadcasts too.
This is so helpful for a similar radio I have!
Interesting in that the cabinet style looked pre-WWII but it runs mostly postwar tubes. Nice and spacious underneath to make recapping easier. Aircastle was Spiegal Catalog Stores House brand. Jobber sets could have been made by any of several factories
Decent sounding with new caps
One of the coolest dudes around
...my dad had a TV & radio repair business in the 50s & 60s...and into the early 70s. I grew up in his shop (Fort Lee, NJ) learning how to diagnose & fix problems with these little five tube radios....most all of the folks who brought them in for repair were in their late 20s to 60s (I guessed) in those days at the ages of 7 or 8 to early teens everyone was old (like I am now - almost 72). I used'ta know all the tubes by number..forgot most of them now - (IIRC 6 SN7 & 12 BE6)...if the sound was describes as 'scratchy' - it was the RF (or IF???) filters - if it had a 'loud hum' it was a bad filter
Slowly I turned... 🤣🤣🤣 Great video Terry! Cheers - Luther
I'm restoring an old Sparton Tube radio circa 1946 and ran across something on the schematic that I have never seen before. The last resistor listed says R18 2700 ohms 5. w. w. w.. All the other resistors show the ohm value and watt value as an example R4 100 ohms .5w etc. My question is what does it mean when there are 3 "w" s like that? I went
ahead and replaced the R18 with a 2700 ohm 5 watt resistor. The radio works and I have the proper voltages but the resistor is getting extremely hot. Any thoughts, ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
I J-hooked the caps in a Fender twin, since it was just less of a hassle than messing with the waxy eyelet board.
At one time solder plated wire in the shape of a close wound spring was available to make those wire to wire joints.
You can safely touch that chassis if you make sure to plug the plug in with the chassis side to neutral, and make sure you're not touching any metal connecting to the house or ground. One way to prevent incorrect plugging in is to replace the plug or whole wire with a polarized one, and make sure the wide side of the plug wire is the one to the chassis. Yet, being safe is never a bad idea. Very nicely done. Do you realign the radio when you finish recapping? Though it sounds lie it doesn't need it.
Very good information, Thumbs up, I like the first part. Any idea on a whites 5900 di pro sl can be fixed if the meter only reads half way, even with different coils and solid silver? tks in advance.
Nice vid, but I understand that replacing the electro. cap with multiple non-elctro. caps adding to equivalent capacitance and assuming their voltages match the original electrolytic, is not ideal and could lead to other problems. Also I would test the other tubes for emission, short, and grid leakage.
What amperage should the varivac have for testing? I know going up to 130 V is sufficient for US.
Great job! Next time, before you heat shrink the caps, cut a one inch disk of fiche paper to put in the top to hide the caps and insulate the cans from probing fingers.
Very nice looking old radio. 1946 ?
Nice, job, my favorite thing!!!
Great video. Well explained. Why did yoou choose not to safe-wire the chassis?
Not only should they just unplug the radio before making resistance checks, they should make sure that the capacitors are discharged.
Bravo Bravissimo.
You are quite mad, you know. Love your video, filled with all the stuff I like.
Nice box but why fix it , a receiver is there to receive and other than talk radio what is there ? Also had a Beckman DVM liked it especially the size of the battery pack
Hello, Yes, I agree, the radio has little value. The vid was just for a bit of fun and to share technology. I have 3 of the Beckman bench meters. They were very pricey back in the day. Still perform very well for this type of work.
I like radiotvphononut, because he puts that insulation tubing on his parts
Do you bother to make sure the foil end of new caps are aligned the same as the originals? I know modern caps don't usually have a foil end marked, but it's not hard to determine which end is which if you have a 'scope handy.
Not unless the cap has the band. These new poly type dont
Thats true (using the scope) and often the bands are wrong anyway Mr Carlsonn did a good clip about this
I can tell you that there are very few instances where doing this makes any difference in real life applications. Certainly not in an old AM radio.
@@johnstone7697 In the spirit of one of the comments before yours, if you do hand wire it make sure you don't leave any stresses on the component leads after you solder them or the molecular alignment of the leads and even the dielectric can be altered which as we all know, changes the sound.................Right?
(who needs emoticons when you can make somebody vomit with mere words?)
I have a Western Auto upright case. I'd love to see a video on building a working chassis that can go in a gutted case and bring it back to working status. Any ideas? Tubes preferred. 73 K4RJJ
Where can I get the schematics for these vintage radios?
Why not put 2 more rivets to fill the old holes for the replacement caps?
With these type, no transformer, what do you do to add a polarized ac cord and make the chassis safe? Always enjoy your videos. Thanks.
What are your thoughts on speaker mods or blue tooth install on them their vintage tube pieces?
Its OK to do as long as the radio has a power transformer. Do not try that on a Hot Chassis type. Shock hazard
@@d-labelectronics I do it all the time, but you must only use the Bluetooth in the battery mode, not with a power supply. OR, you can rewire your radio with a polarized cord and tie the wide blade side to chassis (or "low side, B-") and put the "hot' side thru the power switch. Most of those radios had the power switch in the low side path.
Besides the cost saving of transformers are there any advantages to a hot chassis design?
Not that I am aware of
I had one of those Aerovox wax capacitors explode like a bomb when I had a tube radio powered up outside of its case on the bench. Honestly, it was as loud as a gun, and hurt my ears!
Do you ever replace the power chords on these tube radios with a 3 prong ground chord?
Hi Terry. What is the difference between the Beckman tech 360 and the industrial 360? I have the tech and like the 20 ohn scale :-)
Great Vid!! si I has a question if you could give me your thoughts? . i just purchased a sylvania model #339 NO SOUND at all absolute nothing complete silence ( i think on the internet it said it was a Marconi 339 model Possibly year 1951) the Question i have for you is::: my dad use to say that if a tube lights up, that means it( tube) is working fine???( his is NOT a repair guy by no means!!!, is this a good answer lol. i know all of the tubes in this radio lights and "warms" up ok. it has these tubes in it ,these numbers are ;;;; #12av6 #12be6 #12ba6 #5ol6gt #35w4, how do i know which one is the "audio" tube?. Also what impedance would my old speaker be ? 4 ohms/ 6 ohms/8 ohms?? or what are your thoughts, BTW,I did spay contact cleaner/lubricant that i purchased at a electronic centre inside the volume control it. thank you in advance for your thoughts/ feedback
Mais um trabalho bem feito....!!!!
Cool video. So, is this radio basically an AA5 with an RF amp stage? And that's why the audio output tube is a 35L6, instead of a 50L6, to free up voltage to power 6 tube filaments off of 120 volts?
why didn't you do AM RF alignment?
Please help me...I recapped a Sentinel 294T, replaced tubes with good ones, replaced some suspect resistors...all my tube voltages look good, I get sound on speaker, but no evidence of a 'tuning feeling'... The radio was missing an antenna, so I experimented with a long wire in several configurations with no improvement...the coils in the IF xfmrs tested continuous...idk what's going on but someone obviously tried repairing it...I didn't replace any square caps or all the resistors...any thoughts?? I don't want to assume mica disease and risk destroying radio
why is the chassis not hot when its plugged into the Isolation Transformer?
Great!
How do you avoid the hassle with copyright infringement from the music on the radio??
what's the song/music at the beginning of this vid?
like your t shirt