My new favourite video on TH-cam. "I couldn't say percentages" is precious, and makes a change from all the spurious unfounded percentage claims bandied about by other TH-camrs. I also enjoy that this video is authentically bucolic, and is not made by someone who recently took up rural living and now wants to make a social media career out of it.
Michael, God bless you for this unusually helpful video, the factual and humble way you demonstrate technique and share your experience, and all the helpful replies in these comments.
JESUS that IS better! Wow.....I know you grew up and live there, so maybe you don't notice, but from an Arkansas man who lives in the delta, where a 30 foot bump is a ridge with it's own name, you live in a beautiful area.
Thanks for the comments. It can be nice in the Summer, but Winters can be unpleasant, as we tend to get a lot of rain. Anyway, the natives don't pay much attention to the scenery. Making a living from the land around here is a lot of hard work with little return. That's why the young people head for the cities and the towns for employment.
I know the feeling.Weather around here isn't bad once you get used to the heat. It's the damn mosquitoes that really make life hard in the hotter months. But don't worry. Everything ebbs and flows,. Soon enough the cities will be too crowded to cram anyone else into, and we'll be living in the country again.
Great demonstration, no nonsense (unlike some of the comments here 😂), clean and effective technique. Excellent posture and body mechanics. Full control, no further safety precautions needed.
I think this is the best lesson I've seen yet (and oh my have I watched a lot of chopping tutorials over the last week or so). I didn't realise the "strong" should go to the axe head, I've been doing it the wrong way round and excellent advice to avoid damaging the handle. Now I just need the weather to brighten up a bit (at least not be 50 mph winds and rain) and get practicing! Most the other videos focus on axe choice, rather than how to swing the thing. Thank you very much for sharing!
Nice efficient looking technique. I've split firewood on and off all my life but never thought about the technique. I'm going to learn to use yours. Thanks.
Michael Kearney Of course, in most cases the old way is best, and I like how you protect your tendon on arms, I always do that :) , also you should check Fiskars splitting axes, they are great, they had also and splitting mauls, but Fiskars splitting axe is something between that axe from your video and splitting maul.
Excellent demonstration. I was looking for an clear and simple instructional video, as I just purchased an axe myself to break up some pine stumps. Good job.
doh323 I’ve got to say, my axe swinging became surprisingly “professional” looking after studying these techniques. I applied a tweak to my routine as another viewer suggested of a good amount of hip drop to arrest the arc of the axe head, and jeep your support side leg back a bit, so as to not split a shinbone in half. It is true, stay away from the center core as it is the hardest part, but keep you eye and your attention focused on your target near the outside rings, or you may glance the axe off the side of the stump. Not good. It is great exercise, and oddly relaxing, but not a very fast way to break up a 20+” diameter (fresh) stump in/ground. Better to drill holes in the stump and add some kerosene and then let time degrade the stump. It will take at least a year from my past experience before it weakened enough for the axe to tear it up. Some people like burning them out (me). I’ve seen people blow them out with explosives by drilling a hole in the center and inserting a charge, but that is generally frowned upon where I live, and requires special licensing, and can be incredibly dangerous.
About a week ago I was splitting wood and should have watched this first. I was swinging at the middle and getting spent quick. Thank you for the information and will be using these tips this week when I chop more. Earned my subscription.
As a fellow Irishman i smiled when i heard a familiar towns voice, got me and my son into fire wood splitting and love a after work split so came across this clip thanks for chucking it up hope your well
I have a suggestion for you. From the physics, energy is mass times velocity squared. I spent summer working on the railroad driving spikes. Early on I was taught to not only swing my arms but bend my back in unison. I love going to state fairs where they ring the bell by hitting a seesaw device with a mallet. I like picking out the weakest guy in the crowd who's with his girlfriend and showing him how to do the arm swing and back bend combination. The muscle men around are amazed when he can ring the bell and they can't. Never fails to put a smile on both he and his girlfriend. So, if we let your arms be V1 and you're back V2. Then V1 plus V2 equals V3, or velocity of the axe head. So the next time you swing at that round, snap your back forward and bend along with your arm swing. Note, you have to be an excellent physical condition to perform this action. Good luck!
The ring the bell thing secret is to hit the peg dead square. They put a short peg in so if you're off at the edge of the mallet hits the surround and the peg gets fckall.
Nice video, this is better than many. I disagree with a lot of what you've demonstrated, however. It's not just preference, there are logically solid reasons for my disagreement: 1) One way of judging the quality of a firewood splitting technique is to think about how bad it is on your lower back. Any asymmetry in the swing is going to put additional stresses on your lumbar spine-- if there's any horizontal distance between the head of the tool and the point at which your spine meets your hips, then your lower back/spine is going to need to resolve torque as well as weight/acceleration forces from the head of the tool. The faster you lift the tool, the more dynamic (and therefore larger) these torques and forces will be. If you look at the technique I use in my wood splitting or rock breaking videos, it's analogous to a pile driver: slow lift centered in the plane of my body, putting the tool as high in the air as it will go, then pulling it down as hard and fast as possible, again in the plane of my body. This technique maximizes striking force per unit of biomechanical effort, and also minimizes the torques and strains on my lumbar spine. Here are two links to other internet resources on this technique: www.wikihow.com/Split-Hardwood-Firewood -- Step 4 th-cam.com/video/soOJDRlRUQM/w-d-xo.html 2) Splitting on a block isn't worth the effort of putting the rounds on the block, especially with easy small clear rounds like what you showed there. Just split them on the ground, or hop on top of the pile of rounds and start splitting. A light tool helps with agility in splitting in the pile, which often requires off-angle strikes. Many people think that splitting on a block is better, but it's actually not more efficient overall: a) the block raises the wood, which reduces the potential energy to kinetic energy conversion in the swing, which means weaker splitting power on impact b) having to set rounds up on the block wastes effort and time. There are two main reasons why people split on a block, and neither of them outweigh these disadvantages: a) the block adds inertia between the round and the ground, which makes the maul head decelerate faster on impact, which means more splitting force, and b) the block is a backstop to prevent the sharp edge of the tool from landing in the dirt/rocks that are on the ground. This last reason is why your grandpa taught you to split on a block-- it’s not better, he just didn't want you messing up his tools! 3) The bungees aren’t worth it either. For some reason using bungees, or a chain around the round, is a popular technique on the internet, but it doesn’t bear out in actual production practice. Similar to my perspective on using a block, it’s better to learn to split on the ground or in the pile, and that will ultimately be way more efficient. Novel “hacks” are just that- novel, and often not practical. 4) It's good that you point out the worst place to hit the round is exactly in the center, because there is wood totally surrounding it-- you're totally right on that one. But the far side of the round is actually a very good place to aim for. You're correct that it slightly increases the probability of an overstrike, but I'd absolutely rather have an overstrike than risk putting the sharp edge of the maul in the dirt/rocks. If you strike on the near side, there is no wood in front of the tool after the crack propagates, and the head of the tool can pass through, often at speed, missing the block if you’re using one, and continue on towards the dirt/rocks, or your shins/feet- all bad destinations. Oftentimes, the crack hasn’t propagated all the way through the round either, just enough to allow the maul to pass through, which means all that extra velocity/energy/momentum was wasted. In contrast, if you aim for the far side of the round, if the crack splits wide on impact, then the maul continues in its arc THROUGH the wood, further opening the crack and separating the wood fibers. If the crack totally split the two pieces of wood apart and there’s nothing left to split, then the maul head will just transfer its momentum into sideways velocity of the two halves of the round, which slows the maul down (which is what we want, that’s safe) and the arc of the tool is more likely to end in the block if you’re using one. If you’re not using a block then the transfer of momentum is usually sufficient to slow down the tool to the point where you can regain control and prevent it from winding up in the dirt. I strike preferentially on the far side of a round in all my firewood splitting, and in my experience the probability of this resulting in an overstrike is extremely low… But even so, I should emphasize that I’m not at ALL worried about overstrike damage on any of my splitting tools. Their handles are either super beefy hickory wood- which won’t break or wear, or else steel pipes- the welds might eventually snap, but I can fix that, or else synthetics (fiberglass or carbon fiber or other composites)- with lifetime warranties. No worries in any of those about damaging the handle with an overstrike, but on all of those tools hitting a rock once will totally ruin the sharpness of the splitting edge. I really should make some videos on this. I have all these points to make against popular misconceptions, but I’ve just conveyed them in comments. Props to you for actually making a specific video tutorial!
Thanks for the response. I have seen some of your videos and have enjoyed looking at them. In fact, a few years ago I made a comment on one of them and you replied. I think it was in relation to the handle of your large maul which came (I think) from a hickory sapling that grew up in the mountains. Anyway, I will respond as best I can to your observations. 1. Trying to keep the maul head as close as possible to the centre-line of the body, on the way up, as you suggest, makes a lot of sense. My own style came from my father, who was a farmer. He knew how to use an axe. I am fortunate, in that I always had a strong back and my good fortune is probably genetic. Anyway, I try to get the head of the axe/maul moving quickly from the time that I start to lift it, so that it is moving at optimum speed when it strikes the target. It’s important to be able to get into a smooth rhythm when doing this repetitive type of work. As you can see, I swing from my left side as I am left-handed. Sometimes, I start from my right side to deal with the asymmetry issue that you refer to. However, I am not nearly as effective that way. You sent a link which obviously demonstrates the style that you talk about. Here, I must get critical. The lad working the maul is very stiff in his movements and I suspect that he has not had a lot of practice. He also does something that I consider potentially dangerous. Like most people on youtube (including yourself) that I have seen splitting wood, he keeps his legs straight on the down swing. This has the effect of moving the head of the implement in an arc, which is alright by itself, but if the target is missed, there is a strong tendency for it to move towards the legs, and contact is very likely, particularly, where the handle of the implement is short. If that happens, the result is never good. I think that I am right in saying that your man in the video missed the block one time and the maul continued towards the ground. On the down swing I drop the hips and bend at the knees. This has the effect of a much stronger strike, because more of your body weight is being used which makes the axe/maul head travel faster. Try it! You will see what I mean. I also suspect that it puts less strain on the lower back because you are not bending over as much compared to when your legs are straight. Another safety point about bending at the knees is that it has the effect of straightening out the arc of the axe/maul head as it descends, so that it is not going to travel in towards the legs in the event of a mis-strike. P.S. There is more to follow when I get the time. 2. Our opinions diverge dramatically on this one. I split a lot of big rounds/blocks with plenty of knots and dead branches, especially sitka spruce: the forestry timber that is most readily available in my neck of the woods. In some of my earlier videos, I have used the three-and-a-half pound axe on the lighter piles, getting in amongst them and swinging away from various angles; this is very satisfying, but care is required with footing and making sure that the axe never gets near the legs. Two of my earlier videos shows me using this method. A good splitting block, sitting solidly on the ground, without any movement, provides a solid base for the round that is to be split. It is also safer, since the axe/maul after doing its job, is stopped in its tracks from going any further by contact with the splitting block. Unfortunately, carelessness and poor technique can still lead to accidents, but I find it much safer to have a splitting block in front of me. With reference to your comment about ‘Grandpa’, I have to say that I am one of those people - for two reasons; first of all I am a grandfather, and secondly, I like to take care of my implements. Axes and mauls are kept sharp. Regular contact with the ground is not good for any edge. Probably, the main reason that I use a block is to ensure the best height for the round to be split. I have been told, and I have seen it written in more than one forum, that the striking force of an axe/maul is at its most effective when the handle becomes parallel to the ground on the down swing. That is at about knee height off the ground. By knee height, I mean with the hips dropped and the legs slightly bent at the knees. My splitting block is of such a height, that the top of the round to be split, while sitting on it, is at the right height for maximum effect from the striking axe or maul. There will be some variations in the height of rounds, but not by too much. Having said all that, I can see the logic of your argument for not using a splitting block, but abandoning its use is not something I will be doing anytime soon. th-cam.com/video/hM55glZGCn0/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/hM55glZGCn0/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/pJXj-1RCkj0/w-d-xo.html 3. The specific set-up that I have, with the 2 X 4 uprights and the bungee cords means that my productivity is at least doubled. When a round is split another strike can be made, in the time that it would have taken to lift a fallen item off the ground back onto the block. I don’t overfill the work area with rounds as I frequently see on some youtube videos. A split round needs to be given the space to actually split apart. A large piece that is relatively easy to split can be made into 10 to 12 parts in twenty to twenty five seconds. That would be impossible to do without the bungees. It is no gimmick. There are times when I split on the ground, using the ‘flip’ technique on stuff that is easy to work on, where there are no knots or twisted grain.
Thank you for this video. Because of covid I had to move into the mountains. 4 trees just fell and I've been hurting myself trying to split this wood. I'm kind of a wimp, so I know it'll be awhile before I'm efficient, but this was incredibly helpful
Thanks Jake. Yes, there are plenty of armchair experts out there. Keep going with the videos. They're very informative. This is a more scenic view of my cousin's place. It can be beautiful in the Summer, but the east wind would 'shave' you in Winter. th-cam.com/video/hGKOBhfDueM/w-d-xo.html
It looks nice during the Summer when the weather is good, but when its wet and cold and windy especially in the Winter time, it can be bleak looking for anybody living there.
Ahh yes I too now live where it never seems to quit raining. But the land is alive. Most of my life I spent in the high desert. We had trees but very little grew on the ground but for scrub brush and some thistle where ground was disturbed. I don't miss it!
Awesome vid! Just how My grandpa showed me to swing it years ago. It may sound weird but I miss cutting wood with an axe for my grandpa, I always enjoyed swinging an axe its good exercise and therapeutic in a way. Wish I had trees to cut and a nice fireplace to burn wood. Cheers fellas little techniques like these are becoming a lost art so many people don't know how to swing an axe nowadays
Thanks for the nice comments, Julian. Yes, there is something pleasant and therapeutic about the whole process that is not found in other areas of physical endeavour. Perhaps, there might be a thesis or a Phd there for somebody!
Thank you so much! I'm not as strong as a man and swinging an 8lb maul is very hard on me. I've been doing it kinda right lol but now I'm doing it right! Enjoyable video too. I use a small tire up on two 4x4s laid flat for a cage and it is heavenly. No more chasing wood around and standing it back up.
Thanks for the comment Laura. When doing this kind of work, use the lightest implement possible, and only go up in weight when the rounds/blocks are big or too difficult to split with the lighter tool.
@@michaelkearney5562 yes you are correct, I finally figured that out lol. Its a little like playing golf, and it certainly is easier. I have not been bringing my hand up to the head at all but I am now, it took several practice swings and remembering to bend at the knees and strike the outer rings closest to me. I cannot tell you how grateful I am that you gentlemen took the time out to make this video. Greatly improved my quality of life since I now have way more control over the heavy maul. God Bless!
The absolute most important part is bending your knees as the axe or maul hits the wood. Besides increasing the safety by directing more swing force towards the ground it also increases impact force as the ace or maul strikes the wood.
I had to look this up to explain to my body building cousin why I could hit the bell on the sledgehammer carnival game and he couldn’t. It blew his city boy mind! So glad I learned proper form like this growing up!
I concur. I've just finished reseating an old WECO 6, and it splices logs like they're butter. 'Doesn't matter if they're seasoned or not; that thing makes light work of it all.
The only difference between him and me is that when I slide my hand down the handle I use it to apply extra pressure to the swing. After a few hundred cord you figure it out.
Hi Mike, Once a habit is established, it can feel very awkward to try to change it. You are holding the axe with your left hand forward, but your right foot forward. This basically requires your body to twist just a bit each time you land a blow. This may tire your lower back out a bit sooner. If you can learn to stand with your left foot forward, you may be able to extend both arms more equally. It appears that you are keeping your left arm straightened but bending your right elbow to compensate for your right shoulder being forward. For most of my splitting, my lefts are forward so that I am somewhat swinging across, rather than straight ahead. Taking it a step farther, I try to keep a couple inches between my hands as I think this helps with my aim. On some of the knottier pieces, you have a much easier time getting through them if you can hit essentially the same place twice or three times. As I said at the outset, it may not be reasonable for you to try to change an estgablished habit. Plus, the benefit would probably be minor. Terry
Terry, That is an excellent observation about my foot placement and you have put me thinking. There was a time when I kept the feet in-line, but since I changed from using a 6.6lb maul to the 11 pounder about two years ago, I found that I could get a better swing by bringing the left foot back a bit. I use this term as opposed to your comment of 'right foot forward.' When I start the swing, I come up on my toes a little, and since the weight that I am lifting is on the left side of my body, I have found that placing the left foot further back, allows a stronger 'spring' from the left leg. This generates more force to get the implement moving at speed. When I am swinging the sledgehanner (usually a 16 pounder) I find it critically important to have the left foot slightly back. That is my reasoning on that particular matter. I have no useful comments to make about potential back problems since I know nothing about them. My parents gave me particularly good genes in that area. Thanks again Terry for your observations. I particularly enjoy your own videos and the way that your present them in a calm, measured fashion. It is rare to see somebody that has both the practical and theoretical knowledge in equal measures.
Suggestions based on experience: 1. For big logs split around the edge along the grain and work your way in to center like a spiral, smaller pieces. Too hard to split big log in half then quarter etc. 2. Gloves. You don't want blisters or splinters. 3. Safety goggles or glasses. You don't want a splinter in your eye. 4. Steel tip boots. You don't want a piece landing on your toes. Trust me, I know. 5. Pants, never shorts. You don't want a piece falling against your bare shins. Trust me, I know. 6. I use 6 lb. maul. Arms don't get as tired. 7. Don't split wood more than an hour or depending on your fitness and strength. I overdid it my first year. I wanted to get the pile finished so I was out there splitting for about 2 hours, ignoring the muscle pain. I strained my arm muscle and it was sore for months. There's no shame in resting if it prevents injury. 8. Learn which woods to avoid splitting by hand. My first logs to split were apple and were not worth the trouble.
Matt, Thanks for the comments. I'll respond by the numbers: 1. Personally, I find that splitting big difficult logs, initially in half, with a sledgehammer and wedges makes it easier to split the rest with a maul - different strokes: different folks 2. Personally, I don't wear gloves and never have done so, but they are an option. A few callouses on your hands wont do you any harm. 3. Safety glasses are an option. I don't use them myself. 4. Steel tip boots make sense. 5. Pants or long trousers do give that little bit of of protection from the inevitable stray flying piece. Yes, I have had sore shins on many occasions. If I had to wear safety gear, I would choose a pair of shin guards ahead of goggles. 6. A lot of the stuff that I split has lots of knots and dead branches running through the blocks, especially the big ones. Personally, I find the bigger maul (11lbs or 5KG) to be an advantage in that regard. 7. Yes, It is important not to work while fatigued. The secret with this, in my opinion, is to take your time, work steadily and take a break when you feel the need. 8. A variety of tools gives you more options. For the really difficult rounds, I attack with the sledge hammer (16lbs or 7.2KG.) and wedges. Undoubtedly, there is wood out there that is not worth the effort of trying to split by hand.
When I was a kid and my parents decided to visit family friends, my only "entertainment" was filling a wheel barrow with rounds, dumping them, splitting them, stacking them back in the wheel barrow, and then stacking them outside the house. I got paid all of the Dungeoness Crab I could eat. Dinner on Friday, breakfast, lunch, and dinner Saturday, and breakfast Sunday. I used a 20lb maul, and the splitting stump was dug down to be level with my feet because I wasn't tall. At 9 years old, I would get maybe 4 hours on Friday, 5am-10:30 on Saturday, any maybe 3 hours on Sunday before we had to drive home. I got over a half cord. I would get 2x4x10. I wore tennis shoes, and a pair of shorts. No shirt, no lid, no safety gear needed. I do remember jumping out of the way of a few wild ones. I did that job for maybe 35 weekends over a 15 year period, and had exactly *ZERO* problems beyond a stuck maul. At 19 years old, I did that job for the last time. With closer wood piles, and about 10 extra hours, I split damn near 3 cord. At 5'9, 170lb. If you asked me to do that job today, I would want $10/hr cash, sunrise to sunset. You provide 3 meals and every drop of water I need. *I GET TO PICK THE MUSIC*
1 Gas mask in case of phosphene gas attack 2 Blast shield in case of embeded grenade in wood. 3 surgeon on standby incase of emergency amputation. 4 coast guard on standby in case of spontaneous flooding. 5 Lobotomy to rid yourself of personal responsibility reason and Logic. And your good to go.
I just split or tried to, 2 large very knotty hardwood logs. The one I got through, the other I started to fatigue. Your perimeter technique as opposed to down the center helped. Using I think a 10lb maul. No way I could do an hour of that. I was at like 20 min before I felt the need to quit! More practice I guess. Damn that thing is heavy!
For an axe, a full arc from the rear is nice to get some speed (just like he did). For a heavy maul, it's easier and safer (more accurate) to throw the maul straight up in front over your head, then come straight down.
I used to help my grandpa split firewood before they upgraded to a furnace. We used this same form, I think it is the most efficient way and conserves the most energy, which is very important if you have a trailer load of wood to split. It was nice to have two people so you could take turns swinging the maul.
Splendid video, thank you (you picked up a new subscriber). I've been doing this for years, and never knew which way I swing (No comments from the peanut gallery, please), My brother (he taught me things) was a leftie, and although I swing a baseball bat right handed, the axe and sledge are leftie, I didn't know what I was (I still don't know,, tie my tie and hang my cloths leftie, and goodness knows what else),,, Thanks again.
Right on. Yes, you gotta sit down on it! Great demonstration, and exactly how I like to do it. He used a maul later, so yes, the maul works for splitting. This is not dangerous at all. If you think it is, you'd better go sit in the rocking chair. Cutting the wood to get it there was more dangerous because there was likely a saw involved.
Thank you for putting together this video. Im new to splitting, own a maul and an axe. Still trying to figure out my technique. The maul seems to "bounce" and not cut in to the log. Any suggestions on what I can change ? I appreciate the basic knowledge you are sharing.
With tough hard stuff the maul will often bounce. The same happens when I use my 11 and 13 pound implements. th-cam.com/video/djH9sX4Voj0/w-d-xo.html With practice you will learn how to read the wood. Hit close to the edge of the block/round nearest to you to get a split started. If that does not work, move the block, or yourself, to hit another spot. If unsuccessful after a few swings, you need to start using a sledge hammer and wedges. If you intend to do a lot of splitting over time, it is essential to get these last items, no matter how good you are at swinging a maul. Get the biggest sledge that you can use with relative ease, and buy three wedges-the ones with blades on them. Wedges with points at the end of them are not very good at opening up difficult wood. Get plenty of practice and you will get good at it. Work steady and try to make every swing count; the job is far more satisfying that way.
That's how I learned: "chop with your eyes first" (read the wood). You might find small cracks already, or see where the grain is more open and straight. Also, project your swing through the target, rather than just onto it.
I saw another video where the guy bent his knees so that the blade (maul) would penetrate straight down. He also aimed for the outside, near the edge. I think you should always have a wedge and hammer as back up, in case you get stuck.
SteelJM1 Yea, I am no expert, but I would say yes, but never ever without good eye protection! Also, I think it would help reduce the possibility of shrapnel if the strikes were not excessive in force ( just what is needed - for example, more moderate strikes, rather than a few above the head strikes.) just my not an expert opinion.
@@SteelJM1 A sledgehammer is specifically made as a striking tool. That is what I use when I am driving wedges. I doubt if a maul head is tempered to be used as such. Sledgehammers are cheap and readily available. Anyway if the maul cannot make the split, in my opinion it is too light to be used to drive wedges subsequently.
Nice video Sir, I’m interested it what you put together on your chopping block. Do you have a video showing how you made that for the splitting your wood?
Here it is: th-cam.com/video/hGKOBhfDueM/w-d-xo.html&list=PLEs49oKQefUexfRss06uB01h_xeB7B2TZ&index=9 The information on the set-up is in the second half of the video. If you like them, give the thumbs up. Thanks for watching.
I feel we should start a log splitting club - lots of ancient skill and techniques here to discuss - shame we live oceans apart. I work slightly differently as my main woods are smaller birch and oak logs. The gloves question is an interesting one. The old woodsmen who taught me insisted on never wearing gloves with a cutting hand-tool (mainly axe, reaphook, billhook) for more control they said, and tools slip from wet gloves. But they mostly had leather gloves to work with - so I wonder what's best now?
I don't use gloves when working an axe, maul, or, indeed, any other hand implement. Sometimes, when handling wood in bad conditions, I use gloves, and they do save the hands in those circumstances. On occasion I have swung a maul/axe while wearing gloves. It did not feel right (old dog, new tricks: you know what I mean), and I felt that I had better control of the implement, without the gloves. On a slightly different point: my father taught me, very early in life, to always make sure that handles are kept clean, a practise that I take seriously. Dirty handles make uncomfortable and unsafe work mates. A final thought: a few callouses on the hands should be considered a badge of honour.
You are right, you have a better grip without gloves, but on the other hand, a glove will protect you from splinters when handling the logs. I always wear gloves, as Michael wrote, keep your handles clean and I must add keep your gloves clean ps I never use NEW gloves on cutting tools.
You give and show excellent suggestions. I think you should also provide safety advice: Always wear safety goggles, wearing gloves will stop the inevitable splinters, always keep your legs spread a bit in case the maul comes back at you (never put one leg out in front of the other), and I think it is a very good idea to wear shin guards. One last point: we all know that we need hearing protection when we use a chain saw, but we also need it when we use an ax or maul. That loud popping every time you hit a log definitely is too much for ears. I now use soft ear plugs, but unfortunately my hearing has already been damaged by, among other things, 30 years of splitting with a maul.
I have dealt with safety issues in other videos. The only time that I wear gloves is in wet weather, when everything gets dirty especially the hands. Getting a few callouses does no harm. Wood by its nature is not dangerous to handle with bare hands and I have never had a cut doing this work. I have suggested using shin guards myself in response to other comments. Here, in my block set-up, you can see a horizontal wooden lat in front of me. It's there to block/deflect any piece that decides to zoom in on my shins, and it works extremely well. The way that I set up the splitting block and how I swing means that the axe/maul never comes any where near my legs. Not allowing the handle to go below parallel to the ground also ensures the safety of the legs. Safety goggles can be an option, but I don't use them personally. When wood is split it always goes sideways and never up; at least I have never seen it happen and I have been at this game for a long time. Thanks for watching and for the positive comment.
I was there for a few weeks in '84...rained for four days straight when we arrived...I dont think it rained once over the remaining seventeen days...130F the day we left.
The top of the wood that is being split, as it sits on the splitting block, is at about the same level as my knee. That way the axe/maul hits the wood when the handle is parallel to the ground in the course of the swing, and is generating the the greatest amount of power. That's my thinking on the subject.
The way I work is to have the top of the block to be split to be about level with my knees, as it sits on the splitting block. At that height the maul/axe strikes the target when the handle, in the course of the swing, is parallel to the ground. At that point maximum force is being applied to the swing. Some people use higher splitting blocks which, in my opinion, makes for a shorter swing which is less effective. I'm sure there are those who disagree with my assessment.
@@michaelkearney5562 that's the way I've heard is best. Block height depends on your height and the length you cut the round. With the round in position you should make contact at exactly parallel to the ground 👍
Interesting chop block. I assume the firewood fights to the death in there? In Texas we wrap the bungee around the round to keep everything from flying everywhere. Works great.
The downside with your method is that you have to do it with every block/round, and of course you then have to deal with the axe/maul inevitably cutting into the bungee cord and having to make the necessary repairs.
I know one of these famous gentleman just over the hidden valley somewhere. Sitka is rubbish, full of dowls usually. I made the mistake of getting a full load of big logs, the trailer as well. One of those logs is still 7 foot long and has been floating round my pond since 2004. It was still there 2 days ago, stuck in 3 inches of ice, for the first time since we were all out skating on the lake at Goughane in 2010.
@@michaelkearney5562 hi...chopped em all with the maul, probably at least twice the work of smaller logs or something better like ash. But about 30 euro a ton delivered they were cheap. I think it may have frozen the previous year as well, or the year after. I just took one spin over there was about 30 people out on it, including an old lady with one of the old kitchen chairs who remembered it freezing 50 years earlier. And I made a few chairs with the logs, hollowed out with saw and finish with grinder sanding disc. I would display photo, but can’t seem to do it.
I prefer to have my weaker hand at the end of the handle, and my dominant hand just a bit closer to the head. I do not slide my hand down the handle. Instead, I start by placing the maul where I want to hit, then I slide the maul backwards and into a roundhouse swing, going behind me before going over the top and coming down on the log. I contract my abdominals as part of the swing; I would guess about half of the power comes from the abs. With this technique and a 15 lb (head weight) Monster Maul, I have split 20" red oak, 22" long, down the middle in 1 stroke occasionally, and usually in 2-3 strokes. Tougher woods I either flake off around the edges or use a wedge and sledge. I am learning a different technique for the Fiskars X27, as its light weight feels funny with the previous technique.
I looked at the beautiful thumbnail and decided that it was going to be very disappointing if you didn’t have an accent. Great video. I’m splitting hurricane tree falls now. Need the tips.
This is a very good video, and some of us would like to see more of you and that 11lb maul in action. I think that it has a very "Real" use with very difficult wood, my 6lb and 8lb mauls often seem too light, and the so called "Monster maul" is the wrong shape for what I have to do... you are the only youtube example that I have found, of someone with what I think is the right thing, and the strength to use it... . Very best regards from the Isle of Skye.
Thanks for the kind comments. I don't put 'stuff' up very often, but I do have a few ideas in my head for future videos. It is just an interest that I have, and I like to give my own interpretation of how this work is done, without trying to 'play up to the camera'. I expect that the weather in your part of the World can be challenging, especially around this time of year. Thanks for watching.
You are right Michael, the weather, and a few other things, are indeed challenging here, including the very knotty logs that we buy from the forestry people, hence my interest in your Muller maul. I like the idea of it's "smashing" power through some of the Knots... Do you have for an agent for them in Dublin? Very best regards from Skye... Howard. P.S. You attracted the attentions of Terry Hale, and he definitely knows a thing or two...
Howard, I agree with your assessment of the mauls. Here is the URL- is that the right word - for the Mueller Company product catalogue which I saved to my computer: www.mueller-hammerwerk.at/media/pl_mueller__2017-2018_web.pdf On page 25 the number 0257,50 under Art.Nr. refers to the 5kg (5000g) maul with an ash handle of 85 or 90cm. Art.Nr. 0259,50 refers to the same item, but with a hickory handle of 88cm. It seems that the distributor in the UK is Workware. This is the address: Workware, Kingstown Broadway, Kingstown Ind Est, Carlisle, Cumbria, CA3 0HA, 01228 591091 sales@workware.co.uk From my experience, there is a good chance that if you are communicating with somebody by phone or email, they will have no real knowledge of the product, so be very specific with details if you are placing an order. It is unlikely that they will have it in stock, but should be able to get one in. That's how it worked for me. However, remember that companies can be lazy about things like this, so you might have to push them.
The regular axe is fine for straight grained, easy to split stuff. When you go beyond that to heavier blocks, and those that have knots and twisted grain , etc, the maul is the preferred implement. When the maul doesn't work, then it is time for the sledge and wedge. I use what is most appropriate for a given job.
When you slide it down, your strong hand will end up in front of your weaker one which is the natural way to hold it. Imagine being right handed, how would you want to make a swing? You would put your right hand in front of your left, also with a baseball bat. I think it's less about strength and more about control and aim. The front hand does most of the steering.
My new favourite video on TH-cam. "I couldn't say percentages" is precious, and makes a change from all the spurious unfounded percentage claims bandied about by other TH-camrs. I also enjoy that this video is authentically bucolic, and is not made by someone who recently took up rural living and now wants to make a social media career out of it.
What the heck! . . . and here I thought we were going to get to see a leprechaun boxing match in that little ring you set up.
😂😅👍
LMAOOOOOOO
: D
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Michael, God bless you for this unusually helpful video, the factual and humble way you demonstrate technique and share your experience, and all the helpful replies in these comments.
Thanks for the kind comments. Strange coincidence: to-day for the first time since 2016, I was splitting firewood in the same spot as in the video.
My god that land looks beautiful.
There are much better views on higher ground.
Have a look: th-cam.com/video/hGKOBhfDueM/w-d-xo.html
JESUS that IS better!
Wow.....I know you grew up and live there, so maybe you don't notice, but from an Arkansas man who lives in the delta, where a 30 foot bump is a ridge with it's own name, you live in a beautiful area.
Thanks for the comments. It can be nice in the Summer, but Winters can be unpleasant, as we tend to get a lot of rain. Anyway, the natives don't pay much attention to the scenery. Making a living from the land around here is a lot of hard work with little return. That's why the young people head for the cities and the towns for employment.
I know the feeling.Weather around here isn't bad once you get used to the heat. It's the damn mosquitoes that really make life hard in the hotter months. But don't worry. Everything ebbs and flows,. Soon enough the cities will be too crowded to cram anyone else into, and we'll be living in the country again.
It’s a green and pleasant land.
Great demonstration, no nonsense (unlike some of the comments here 😂), clean and effective technique. Excellent posture and body mechanics. Full control, no further safety precautions needed.
Thanks. It's hard to fathom where some comments come from.
@@michaelkearney5562 There's a lot of idiot keyboard warriors on here. 🤣
I think this is the best lesson I've seen yet (and oh my have I watched a lot of chopping tutorials over the last week or so). I didn't realise the "strong" should go to the axe head, I've been doing it the wrong way round and excellent advice to avoid damaging the handle. Now I just need the weather to brighten up a bit (at least not be 50 mph winds and rain) and get practicing! Most the other videos focus on axe choice, rather than how to swing the thing. Thank you very much for sharing!
I'm glad you got something out of it, and best of luck.
Nice efficient looking technique. I've split firewood on and off all my life but never thought about the technique. I'm going to learn to use yours. Thanks.
Thanks for watching and best of luck.
Thats the best way to cut firewood, thats the same method how my grandfather taught me long time ago...and you explain very simple and very great! :)
Vlad: Thanks for the nice comment. Very often the old ways are the best.
Michael Kearney Of course, in most cases the old way is best, and I like how you protect your tendon on arms, I always do that :) , also you should check Fiskars splitting axes, they are great, they had also and splitting mauls, but Fiskars splitting axe is something between that axe from your video and splitting maul.
Great form... Splitting those wood logs looks so easy. I have a maul, and it’s quite the workout, I just finished using one and I am exhausted.
Excellent demonstration. I was looking for an clear and simple instructional video, as I just purchased an axe myself to break up some pine stumps. Good job.
MegaJugMan how was it, I just chopped a dieing pine tree down for the first time that
doh323 I’ve got to say, my axe swinging became surprisingly “professional” looking after studying these techniques. I applied a tweak to my routine as another viewer suggested of a good amount of hip drop to arrest the arc of the axe head, and jeep your support side leg back a bit, so as to not split a shinbone in half.
It is true, stay away from the center core as it is the hardest part, but keep you eye and your attention focused on your target near the outside rings, or you may glance the axe off the side of the stump. Not good. It is great exercise, and oddly relaxing, but not a very fast way to break up a 20+” diameter (fresh) stump in/ground. Better to drill holes in the stump and add some kerosene and then let time degrade the stump. It will take at least a year from my past experience before it weakened enough for the axe to tear it up. Some people like burning them out (me). I’ve seen people blow them out with explosives by drilling a hole in the center and inserting a charge, but that is generally frowned upon where I live, and requires special licensing, and can be incredibly dangerous.
About a week ago I was splitting wood and should have watched this first. I was swinging at the middle and getting spent quick. Thank you for the information and will be using these tips this week when I chop more. Earned my subscription.
Thanks for the comment and nice to hear that you learned something from the video.
As a fellow Irishman i smiled when i heard a familiar towns voice, got me and my son into fire wood splitting and love a after work split so came across this clip thanks for chucking it up hope your well
It's a healthy past-time James. Hope you're keeping good.
Good teachings, basic, simple and safe congratulations 👏 that's a nice teach greetings from 🇺🇾 to 🇮🇪.
UY: Is that Uruguay?
Incredible scenery. The shot is framed perfectly.
It’s little latter for me to view this experience and lesson from you sir, but I can certainly learn some from you.
Thanks a lot! 👍
👍
Thank you James O Leery for your contribution. :)
Damn fine technique sir. Thank you kindly.
I have a suggestion for you. From the physics, energy is mass times velocity squared. I spent summer working on the railroad driving spikes. Early on I was taught to not only swing my arms but bend my back in unison. I love going to state fairs where they ring the bell by hitting a seesaw device with a mallet. I like picking out the weakest guy in the crowd who's with his girlfriend and showing him how to do the arm swing and back bend combination. The muscle men around are amazed when he can ring the bell and they can't. Never fails to put a smile on both he and his girlfriend. So, if we let your arms be V1 and you're back V2. Then V1 plus V2 equals V3, or velocity of the axe head. So the next time you swing at that round, snap your back forward and bend along with your arm swing. Note, you have to be an excellent physical condition to perform this action. Good luck!
The ring the bell thing secret is to hit the peg dead square. They put a short peg in so if you're off at the edge of the mallet hits the surround and the peg gets fckall.
Crystal clear thank you Sir’s. Stay safe
Beautiful scenery, beautiful accent and beautiful splitting. I want to be where you are.
Nice video, this is better than many. I disagree with a lot of what you've demonstrated, however. It's not just preference, there are logically solid reasons for my disagreement:
1) One way of judging the quality of a firewood splitting technique is to think about how bad it is on your lower back. Any asymmetry in the swing is going to put additional stresses on your lumbar spine-- if there's any horizontal distance between the head of the tool and the point at which your spine meets your hips, then your lower back/spine is going to need to resolve torque as well as weight/acceleration forces from the head of the tool. The faster you lift the tool, the more dynamic (and therefore larger) these torques and forces will be. If you look at the technique I use in my wood splitting or rock breaking videos, it's analogous to a pile driver: slow lift centered in the plane of my body, putting the tool as high in the air as it will go, then pulling it down as hard and fast as possible, again in the plane of my body. This technique maximizes striking force per unit of biomechanical effort, and also minimizes the torques and strains on my lumbar spine. Here are two links to other internet resources on this technique:
www.wikihow.com/Split-Hardwood-Firewood -- Step 4
th-cam.com/video/soOJDRlRUQM/w-d-xo.html
2) Splitting on a block isn't worth the effort of putting the rounds on the block, especially with easy small clear rounds like what you showed there. Just split them on the ground, or hop on top of the pile of rounds and start splitting. A light tool helps with agility in splitting in the pile, which often requires off-angle strikes. Many people think that splitting on a block is better, but it's actually not more efficient overall: a) the block raises the wood, which reduces the potential energy to kinetic energy conversion in the swing, which means weaker splitting power on impact b) having to set rounds up on the block wastes effort and time. There are two main reasons why people split on a block, and neither of them outweigh these disadvantages: a) the block adds inertia between the round and the ground, which makes the maul head decelerate faster on impact, which means more splitting force, and b) the block is a backstop to prevent the sharp edge of the tool from landing in the dirt/rocks that are on the ground. This last reason is why your grandpa taught you to split on a block-- it’s not better, he just didn't want you messing up his tools!
3) The bungees aren’t worth it either. For some reason using bungees, or a chain around the round, is a popular technique on the internet, but it doesn’t bear out in actual production practice. Similar to my perspective on using a block, it’s better to learn to split on the ground or in the pile, and that will ultimately be way more efficient. Novel “hacks” are just that- novel, and often not practical.
4) It's good that you point out the worst place to hit the round is exactly in the center, because there is wood totally surrounding it-- you're totally right on that one. But the far side of the round is actually a very good place to aim for. You're correct that it slightly increases the probability of an overstrike, but I'd absolutely rather have an overstrike than risk putting the sharp edge of the maul in the dirt/rocks. If you strike on the near side, there is no wood in front of the tool after the crack propagates, and the head of the tool can pass through, often at speed, missing the block if you’re using one, and continue on towards the dirt/rocks, or your shins/feet- all bad destinations. Oftentimes, the crack hasn’t propagated all the way through the round either, just enough to allow the maul to pass through, which means all that extra velocity/energy/momentum was wasted. In contrast, if you aim for the far side of the round, if the crack splits wide on impact, then the maul continues in its arc THROUGH the wood, further opening the crack and separating the wood fibers. If the crack totally split the two pieces of wood apart and there’s nothing left to split, then the maul head will just transfer its momentum into sideways velocity of the two halves of the round, which slows the maul down (which is what we want, that’s safe) and the arc of the tool is more likely to end in the block if you’re using one. If you’re not using a block then the transfer of momentum is usually sufficient to slow down the tool to the point where you can regain control and prevent it from winding up in the dirt. I strike preferentially on the far side of a round in all my firewood splitting, and in my experience the probability of this resulting in an overstrike is extremely low… But even so, I should emphasize that I’m not at ALL worried about overstrike damage on any of my splitting tools. Their handles are either super beefy hickory wood- which won’t break or wear, or else steel pipes- the welds might eventually snap, but I can fix that, or else synthetics (fiberglass or carbon fiber or other composites)- with lifetime warranties. No worries in any of those about damaging the handle with an overstrike, but on all of those tools hitting a rock once will totally ruin the sharpness of the splitting edge.
I really should make some videos on this. I have all these points to make against popular misconceptions, but I’ve just conveyed them in comments. Props to you for actually making a specific video tutorial!
Thanks for the response. I have seen some of your videos and have enjoyed looking at them. In fact, a few years ago I made a comment on one of them and you replied. I think it was in relation to the handle of your large maul which came (I think) from a hickory sapling that grew up in the mountains.
Anyway, I will respond as best I can to your observations.
1. Trying to keep the maul head as close as possible to the centre-line of the body, on the way up, as you suggest, makes a lot of sense. My own style came from my father, who was a farmer. He knew how to use an axe. I am fortunate, in that I always had a strong back and my good fortune is probably genetic. Anyway, I try to get the head of the axe/maul moving quickly from the time that I start to lift it, so that it is moving at optimum speed when it strikes the target. It’s important to be able to get into a smooth rhythm when doing this repetitive type of work. As you can see, I swing from my left side as I am left-handed. Sometimes, I start from my right side to deal with the asymmetry issue that you refer to. However, I am not nearly as effective that way. You sent a link which obviously demonstrates the style that you talk about. Here, I must get critical. The lad working the maul is very stiff in his movements and I suspect that he has not had a lot of practice. He also does something that I consider potentially dangerous. Like most people on youtube (including yourself) that I have seen splitting wood, he keeps his legs straight on the down swing. This has the effect of moving the head of the implement in an arc, which is alright by itself, but if the target is missed, there is a strong tendency for it to move towards the legs, and contact is very likely, particularly, where the handle of the implement is short. If that happens, the result is never good. I think that I am right in saying that your man in the video missed the block one time and the maul continued towards the ground. On the down swing I drop the hips and bend at the knees. This has the effect of a much stronger strike, because more of your body weight is being used which makes the axe/maul head travel faster. Try it! You will see what I mean. I also suspect that it puts less strain on the lower back because you are not bending over as much compared to when your legs are straight. Another safety point about bending at the knees is that it has the effect of straightening out the arc of the axe/maul head as it descends, so that it is not going to travel in towards the legs in the event of a mis-strike.
P.S. There is more to follow when I get the time.
2. Our opinions diverge dramatically on this one. I split a lot of big rounds/blocks with plenty of knots and dead branches, especially sitka spruce: the forestry timber that is most readily available in my neck of the woods. In some of my earlier videos, I have used the three-and-a-half pound axe on the lighter piles, getting in amongst them and swinging away from various angles; this is very satisfying, but care is required with footing and making sure that the axe never gets near the legs. Two of my earlier videos shows me using this method. A good splitting block, sitting solidly on the ground, without any movement, provides a solid base for the round that is to be split. It is also safer, since the axe/maul after doing its job, is stopped in its tracks from going any further by contact with the splitting block. Unfortunately, carelessness and poor technique can still lead to accidents, but I find it much safer to have a splitting block in front of me. With reference to your comment about ‘Grandpa’, I have to say that I am one of those people - for two reasons; first of all I am a grandfather, and secondly, I like to take care of my implements. Axes and mauls are kept sharp. Regular contact with the ground is not good for any edge. Probably, the main reason that I use a block is to ensure the best height for the round to be split. I have been told, and I have seen it written in more than one forum, that the striking force of an axe/maul is at its most effective when the handle becomes parallel to the ground on the down swing. That is at about knee height off the ground. By knee height, I mean with the hips dropped and the legs slightly bent at the knees. My splitting block is of such a height, that the top of the round to be split, while sitting on it, is at the right height for maximum effect from the striking axe or maul. There will be some variations in the height of rounds, but not by too much. Having said all that, I can see the logic of your argument for not using a splitting block, but abandoning its use is not something I will be doing anytime soon.
th-cam.com/video/hM55glZGCn0/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/hM55glZGCn0/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/pJXj-1RCkj0/w-d-xo.html
3. The specific set-up that I have, with the 2 X 4 uprights and the bungee cords means that my productivity is at least doubled. When a round is split another strike can be made, in the time that it would have taken to lift a fallen item off the ground back onto the block.
I don’t overfill the work area with rounds as I frequently see on some youtube videos. A split round needs to be given the space to actually split apart. A large piece that is relatively easy to split can be made into 10 to 12 parts in twenty to twenty five seconds. That would be impossible to do without the bungees. It is no gimmick. There are times when I split on the ground, using the ‘flip’ technique on stuff that is easy to work on, where there are no knots or twisted grain.
Fantastic, thanks for presenting that technique in a simple and understandable manner.
Thank you for this video. Because of covid I had to move into the mountains. 4 trees just fell and I've been hurting myself trying to split this wood. I'm kind of a wimp, so I know it'll be awhile before I'm efficient, but this was incredibly helpful
Best of luck with the splitting.
EXACTLY how I learned to swing the maul growing up. :)
I hated it so much as a kid, but I look forward to it, now!
Just gotta love the know it all’s on TH-cam😂😂 You did a fine job! Beautiful country, I hope to one day visit Ireland!!
Thanks Jake. Yes, there are plenty of armchair experts out there. Keep going with the videos. They're very informative. This is a more scenic view of my cousin's place. It can be beautiful in the Summer, but the east wind would 'shave' you in Winter.
th-cam.com/video/hGKOBhfDueM/w-d-xo.html
Very helpful, showing how the obvious is not so obvious. If you candle wax your axe from time to time, it goes through even easier.
More people need to watch and understand this method of swinging an axe the proper way. You demonstrate control and power behind your swings.
Thanks Ken for the positive comments.
Absolutely the best tutorial on this topic on TH-cam, Takes an Irishman,FairPlay Michael,from Just up the road Belfast✊👍👍
@@earllogan6223 Thanks for the positive comment.
I don't know where you are but my gawd, it looks like you're filming in a studio with a gorgeous painted backdrop. Thanks for sharing.
It's only a few fields with cattle grazing in one of them. Nearby, the scenery is much better.
studio.th-cam.com/users/videohGKOBhfDueM/edit
@@michaelkearney5562 That would be the inside of the pub then, would it not?! 😁 Cheers!
@@ikrotzky 😁😁😁
Dear god.. look at that view. I'd live outside all day every day if I lived on land like that.
It looks nice during the Summer when the weather is good, but when its wet and cold and windy especially in the Winter time, it can be bleak looking for anybody living there.
Ahh yes I too now live where it never seems to quit raining. But the land is alive. Most of my life I spent in the high desert. We had trees but very little grew on the ground but for scrub brush and some thistle where ground was disturbed. I don't miss it!
Arizona weather is nice all year
I thought the same thing.
I live in the high desert of Central Oregon and travel once a month to the Willamette Valley where when it’s not raining it is spectacular.
Props to this older gentleman still getting it done with the maul!
Thanks.
Just got an axe for bushcraft. Best tutorial for learning how to use my first axe
Awesome vid! Just how My grandpa showed me to swing it years ago. It may sound weird but I miss cutting wood with an axe for my grandpa, I always enjoyed swinging an axe its good exercise and therapeutic in a way. Wish I had trees to cut and a nice fireplace to burn wood. Cheers fellas little techniques like these are becoming a lost art so many people don't know how to swing an axe nowadays
Thanks for the nice comments, Julian.
Yes, there is something pleasant and therapeutic about the whole process that is not found in other areas of physical endeavour.
Perhaps, there might be a thesis or a Phd there for somebody!
Thank you so much! I'm not as strong as a man and swinging an 8lb maul is very hard on me. I've been doing it kinda right lol but now I'm doing it right! Enjoyable video too.
I use a small tire up on two 4x4s laid flat for a cage and it is heavenly. No more chasing wood around and standing it back up.
Thanks for the comment Laura. When doing this kind of work, use the lightest implement possible, and only go up in weight when the rounds/blocks are big or too difficult to split with the lighter tool.
@@michaelkearney5562 yes you are correct, I finally figured that out lol. Its a little like playing golf, and it certainly is easier. I have not been bringing my hand up to the head at all but I am now, it took several practice swings and remembering to bend at the knees and strike the outer rings closest to me. I cannot tell you how grateful I am that you gentlemen took the time out to make this video. Greatly improved my quality of life since I now have way more control over the heavy maul. God Bless!
The absolute most important part is bending your knees as the axe or maul hits the wood. Besides increasing the safety by directing more swing force towards the ground it also increases impact force as the ace or maul strikes the wood.
Thank you, it was very informative, greetings from Italy!
Thanks. I know that Italy has been hit very badly by Covid 19. Stay safe.
I had to look this up to explain to my body building cousin why I could hit the bell on the sledgehammer carnival game and he couldn’t. It blew his city boy mind!
So glad I learned proper form like this growing up!
Thanks for the comment. Proper form and technique is so important. Brute force and ignorance wont get you far in this type of work.
Good swing.
Ive tried different weight mauls. #6 is best for me. I get a lot more speed on the head than with a heavier maul.
I concur. I've just finished reseating an old WECO 6, and it splices logs like they're butter. 'Doesn't matter if they're seasoned or not; that thing makes light work of it all.
excellent explanation of what we do naturally if we have had to chop wood to cook
The only difference between him and me is that when I slide my hand down the handle I use it to apply extra pressure to the swing. After a few hundred cord you figure it out.
Hi Mike,
Once a habit is established, it can feel very awkward to try to change it. You are holding the axe with your left hand forward, but your right foot forward. This basically requires your body to twist just a bit each time you land a blow. This may tire your lower back out a bit sooner.
If you can learn to stand with your left foot forward, you may be able to extend both arms more equally. It appears that you are keeping your left arm straightened but bending your right elbow to compensate for your right shoulder being forward.
For most of my splitting, my lefts are forward so that I am somewhat swinging across, rather than straight ahead. Taking it a step farther, I try to keep a couple inches between my hands as I think this helps with my aim. On some of the knottier pieces, you have a much easier time getting through them if you can hit essentially the same place twice or three times.
As I said at the outset, it may not be reasonable for you to try to change an estgablished habit. Plus, the benefit would probably be minor.
Terry
Terry,
That is an excellent observation about my foot placement and you have put me thinking. There was a time when I kept the feet in-line, but since I changed from using a 6.6lb maul to the 11 pounder about two years ago, I found that I could get a better swing by bringing the left foot back a bit. I use this term as opposed to your comment of 'right foot forward.'
When I start the swing, I come up on my toes a little, and since the weight that I am lifting is on the left side of my body, I have found that placing the left foot further back, allows a stronger 'spring' from the left leg. This generates more force to get the implement moving at speed.
When I am swinging the sledgehanner (usually a 16 pounder) I find it critically important to have the left foot slightly back.
That is my reasoning on that particular matter.
I have no useful comments to make about potential back problems since I know nothing about them. My parents gave me particularly good genes in that area.
Thanks again Terry for your observations. I particularly enjoy your own videos and the way that your present them in a calm, measured fashion. It is rare to see somebody that has both the practical and theoretical knowledge in equal measures.
Suggestions based on experience:
1. For big logs split around the edge along the grain and work your way in to center like a spiral, smaller pieces. Too hard to split big log in half then quarter etc.
2. Gloves. You don't want blisters or splinters.
3. Safety goggles or glasses. You don't want a splinter in your eye.
4. Steel tip boots. You don't want a piece landing on your toes. Trust me, I know.
5. Pants, never shorts. You don't want a piece falling against your bare shins. Trust me, I know.
6. I use 6 lb. maul. Arms don't get as tired.
7. Don't split wood more than an hour or depending on your fitness and strength. I overdid it my first year. I wanted to get the pile finished so I was out there splitting for about 2 hours, ignoring the muscle pain. I strained my arm muscle and it was sore for months. There's no shame in resting if it prevents injury.
8. Learn which woods to avoid splitting by hand. My first logs to split were apple and were not worth the trouble.
Matt,
Thanks for the comments.
I'll respond by the numbers:
1. Personally, I find that splitting big difficult logs, initially in half, with a sledgehammer and wedges makes it easier to split the rest with a maul - different strokes: different folks
2. Personally, I don't wear gloves and never have done so, but they are an option. A few callouses on your hands wont do you any harm.
3. Safety glasses are an option. I don't use them myself.
4. Steel tip boots make sense.
5. Pants or long trousers do give that little bit of of protection from the inevitable stray flying piece. Yes, I have had sore shins on many occasions. If I had to wear safety gear, I would choose a pair of shin guards ahead of goggles.
6. A lot of the stuff that I split has lots of knots and dead branches running through the blocks, especially the big ones. Personally, I find the bigger maul (11lbs or 5KG) to be an advantage in that regard.
7. Yes, It is important not to work while fatigued. The secret with this, in my opinion, is to take your time, work steadily and take a break when you feel the need.
8. A variety of tools gives you more options. For the really difficult rounds, I attack with the sledge hammer (16lbs or 7.2KG.) and wedges. Undoubtedly, there is wood out there that is not worth the effort of trying to split by hand.
When I was a kid and my parents decided to visit family friends, my only "entertainment" was filling a wheel barrow with rounds, dumping them, splitting them, stacking them back in the wheel barrow, and then stacking them outside the house.
I got paid all of the Dungeoness Crab I could eat. Dinner on Friday, breakfast, lunch, and dinner Saturday, and breakfast Sunday.
I used a 20lb maul, and the splitting stump was dug down to be level with my feet because I wasn't tall.
At 9 years old, I would get maybe 4 hours on Friday, 5am-10:30 on Saturday, any maybe 3 hours on Sunday before we had to drive home. I got over a half cord. I would get 2x4x10.
I wore tennis shoes, and a pair of shorts. No shirt, no lid, no safety gear needed.
I do remember jumping out of the way of a few wild ones.
I did that job for maybe 35 weekends over a 15 year period, and had exactly *ZERO* problems beyond a stuck maul.
At 19 years old, I did that job for the last time. With closer wood piles, and about 10 extra hours, I split damn near 3 cord.
At 5'9, 170lb.
If you asked me to do that job today, I would want $10/hr cash, sunrise to sunset. You provide 3 meals and every drop of water I need.
*I GET TO PICK THE MUSIC*
For the fatigue problem, I suggest learning how to swing both right- and left-handed for greater longevity.
1 Gas mask in case of phosphene gas attack
2 Blast shield in case of embeded grenade in wood.
3 surgeon on standby incase of emergency amputation.
4 coast guard on standby in case of spontaneous flooding.
5 Lobotomy to rid yourself of personal responsibility reason and Logic.
And your good to go.
@@mr.nobody68 lol the music is the best part, and I think you could fo better than $10 hr
Great videos Michael….👍
That landscape in the back... just beautiful!
Great demonstration! It makes a lot of sense. Thank you
Thanks Tim.
Watching this as I'm about to go camping and will need to split wood. Thumbs up !
Thanks for the tips and tricks.
Thanks for the video. It has inspired me to go outside and split some firewood. Right now!
I just split or tried to, 2 large very knotty hardwood logs. The one I got through, the other I started to fatigue. Your perimeter technique as opposed to down the center helped. Using I think a 10lb maul. No way I could do an hour of that. I was at like 20 min before I felt the need to quit! More practice I guess. Damn that thing is heavy!
I like simple flowing smooth technique you have,interesting!.
Bungee cords are brilliant!
Nice series of videos.
For an axe, a full arc from the rear is nice to get some speed (just like he did).
For a heavy maul, it's easier and safer (more accurate) to throw the maul straight up in front over your head, then come straight down.
Cheers from USA!
I used to help my grandpa split firewood before they upgraded to a furnace. We used this same form, I think it is the most efficient way and conserves the most energy, which is very important if you have a trailer load of wood to split. It was nice to have two people so you could take turns swinging the maul.
You are right about efficiency - no need to say anything more.
Splendid video, thank you (you picked up a new subscriber). I've been doing this for years, and never knew which way I swing (No comments from the peanut gallery, please), My brother (he taught me things) was a leftie, and although I swing a baseball bat right handed, the axe and sledge are leftie, I didn't know what I was (I still don't know,, tie my tie and hang my cloths leftie, and goodness knows what else),,, Thanks again.
Thanks Thomas. Sometimes I swing from my weak side when the mood takes me.
Right on. Yes, you gotta sit down on it! Great demonstration, and exactly how I like to do it. He used a maul later, so yes, the maul works for splitting. This is not dangerous at all. If you think it is, you'd better go sit in the rocking chair. Cutting the wood to get it there was more dangerous because there was likely a saw involved.
This may be an old video, but it it is still a great one! Thanks for subscribing to my channel, Michael! Stay kind!
Thanks Wayne. You do have interesting stuff.
Can you do a video of the technique for chopping a small tree down?
You guys are cool. Great video!
Very nice video. thank you for posting this.
Thanks: There are several more more posted on TH-cam. Click on my name to get access!
Im a lefty also and often have my right hand near the head. Ill have to try it the right way i guesd
Very well explained!
Thanks for watching and commenting Brendan.
Great video and very informative - from a fellow lefty
Best video on how to split wood with an axe and maul
Thanks. I should know something about the business by now.. I've had plenty of practice.
Thank you for putting together this video. Im new to splitting, own a maul and an axe. Still trying to figure out my technique. The maul seems to "bounce" and not cut in to the log. Any suggestions on what I can change ? I appreciate the basic knowledge you are sharing.
With tough hard stuff the maul will often bounce. The same happens when I use my 11 and 13 pound implements. th-cam.com/video/djH9sX4Voj0/w-d-xo.html
With practice you will learn how to read the wood. Hit close to the edge of the block/round nearest to you to get a split started. If that does not work, move the block, or yourself, to hit another spot. If unsuccessful after a few swings, you need to start using a sledge hammer and wedges. If you intend to do a lot of splitting over time, it is essential to get these last items, no matter how good you are at swinging a maul. Get the biggest sledge that you can use with relative ease, and buy three wedges-the ones with blades on them. Wedges with points at the end of them are not very good at opening up difficult wood. Get plenty of practice and you will get good at it. Work steady and try to make every swing count; the job is far more satisfying that way.
That's how I learned: "chop with your eyes first" (read the wood). You might find small cracks already, or see where the grain is more open and straight. Also, project your swing through the target, rather than just onto it.
A good, clear demonstration with reasonable explanations. It's more valuable with your luvly Irish accent. Céad míle fáilte.
Thanks for the nice comments and keep looking. There are more of them.
I saw another video where the guy bent his knees so that the blade (maul) would penetrate straight down. He also aimed for the outside, near the edge. I think you should always have a wedge and hammer as back up, in case you get stuck.
Can you just use the backside of the maul as a hammer for wedges? Just to avoid buying another tool...
SteelJM1
Yea, I am no expert, but I would say yes, but never ever without good eye protection! Also, I think it would help reduce the possibility of shrapnel if the strikes were not excessive in force ( just what is needed - for example, more moderate strikes, rather than a few above the head strikes.) just my not an expert opinion.
@@SteelJM1 A sledgehammer is specifically made as a striking tool. That is what I use when I am driving wedges. I doubt if a maul head is tempered to be used as such. Sledgehammers are cheap and readily available. Anyway if the maul cannot make the split, in my opinion it is too light to be used to drive wedges subsequently.
Nice video Sir, I’m interested it what you put together on your chopping block. Do you have a video showing how you made that for the splitting your wood?
Here it is: th-cam.com/video/hGKOBhfDueM/w-d-xo.html&list=PLEs49oKQefUexfRss06uB01h_xeB7B2TZ&index=9
The information on the set-up is in the second half of the video. If you like them, give the thumbs up. Thanks for watching.
that log catching thing with the bungees are quite smart, gonna try that one the next time i split firewood.
There's a bit of work in setting it up, but it is well worth the effort. Everything gets done much quicker.
I feel we should start a log splitting club - lots of ancient skill and techniques here to discuss - shame we live oceans apart. I work slightly differently as my main woods are smaller birch and oak logs. The gloves question is an interesting one. The old woodsmen who taught me insisted on never wearing gloves with a cutting hand-tool (mainly axe, reaphook, billhook) for more control they said, and tools slip from wet gloves. But they mostly had leather gloves to work with - so I wonder what's best now?
I don't use gloves when working an axe, maul, or, indeed, any other hand implement. Sometimes, when handling wood in bad conditions, I use gloves, and they do save the hands in those circumstances. On occasion I have swung a maul/axe while wearing gloves. It did not feel right (old dog, new tricks: you know what I mean), and I felt that I had better control of the implement, without the gloves. On a slightly different point: my father taught me, very early in life, to always make sure that handles are kept clean, a practise that I take seriously. Dirty handles make uncomfortable and unsafe work mates.
A final thought: a few callouses on the hands should be considered a badge of honour.
You are right, you have a better grip without gloves, but on the other hand, a glove will protect you from splinters when handling the logs. I always wear gloves, as Michael wrote, keep your handles clean and I must add keep your gloves clean
ps I never use NEW gloves on cutting tools.
I am looking for a good but kinda cheap splitting maul. Do you know anything like that?
You give and show excellent suggestions. I think you should also provide safety advice: Always wear safety goggles, wearing gloves will stop the inevitable splinters, always keep your legs spread a bit in case the maul comes back at you (never put one leg out in front of the other), and I think it is a very good idea to wear shin guards. One last point: we all know that we need hearing protection when we use a chain saw, but we also need it when we use an ax or maul. That loud popping every time you hit a log definitely is too much for ears. I now use soft ear plugs, but unfortunately my hearing has already been damaged by, among other things, 30 years of splitting with a maul.
I have dealt with safety issues in other videos. The only time that I wear gloves is in wet weather, when everything gets dirty especially the hands. Getting a few callouses does no harm. Wood by its nature is not dangerous to handle with bare hands and I have never had a cut doing this work. I have suggested using shin guards myself in response to other comments. Here, in my block set-up, you can see a horizontal wooden lat in front of me. It's there to block/deflect any piece that decides to zoom in on my shins, and it works extremely well. The way that I set up the splitting block and how I swing means that the axe/maul never comes any where near my legs. Not allowing the handle to go below parallel to the ground also ensures the safety of the legs. Safety goggles can be an option, but I don't use them personally. When wood is split it always goes sideways and never up; at least I have never seen it happen and I have been at this game for a long time.
Thanks for watching and for the positive comment.
Wow that landscape is beautiful where is this
It's down in South West Ireland in the County of Cork.
@@michaelkearney5562 Nice! My family came here from Cork in the early 1900's
@@KrushKrills Now I'm curious! What part of Cork?
Greetings from the Mojave Desert CA.
🏜️🪓🏜️🪓🏜️🪓🏜️
I was there for a few weeks in '84...rained for four days straight when we arrived...I dont think it rained once over the remaining seventeen days...130F the day we left.
What’s the height of your chopping block, and what’s the ideal height?
The top of the wood that is being split, as it sits on the splitting block, is at about the same level as my knee. That way the axe/maul hits the wood when the handle is parallel to the ground in the course of the swing, and is generating the the greatest amount of power. That's my thinking on the subject.
@@michaelkearney5562 That's too low. Inefficient and dangerous.
Is this also a good technique for execution?
I wouldn't worry about technique there. Just swing with vigour any old way at all.
Great tutorial! Anther item you could discuss is how to check the right height for your splitting block.
The way I work is to have the top of the block to be split to be about level with my knees, as it sits on the splitting block. At that height the maul/axe strikes the target when the handle, in the course of the swing, is parallel to the ground. At that point maximum force is being applied to the swing. Some people use higher splitting blocks which, in my opinion, makes for a shorter swing which is less effective. I'm sure there are those who disagree with my assessment.
@@michaelkearney5562 that's the way I've heard is best. Block height depends on your height and the length you cut the round. With the round in position you should make contact at exactly parallel to the ground 👍
Spuce for fire wood ??
Wow! Seriously, impressed.
Also, any plans for that cutting/catching/stump object? That looks handy.
Thank you for a great performance.
Ah, I see where I’ve been going wrong. Also, what is the best way to gauge the correct standing distance from the wood? Thank you sir.
Practise, practise, practise. With practice you get a feel for distance.
Really clear and nice explanations
Good video straight to the point and short
Thanks for the comment.
Great video - thank you very much!
Dan, Thanks for watching
Interesting chop block. I assume the firewood fights to the death in there? In Texas we wrap the bungee around the round to keep everything from flying everywhere. Works great.
The downside with your method is that you have to do it with every block/round, and of course you then have to deal with the axe/maul inevitably cutting into the bungee cord and having to make the necessary repairs.
I remember the let's see who can split the big log challenges back on the farm...that technique provides the most power for sure..
I know one of these famous gentleman just over the hidden valley somewhere. Sitka is rubbish, full of dowls usually. I made the mistake of getting a full load of big logs, the trailer as well. One of those logs is still 7 foot long and has been floating round my pond since 2004. It was still there 2 days ago, stuck in 3 inches of ice, for the first time since we were all out skating on the lake at Goughane in 2010.
What did you do with the load of logs? If memory serves me right the lake froze at least twice in 2010.
@@michaelkearney5562 hi...chopped em all with the maul, probably at least twice the work of smaller logs or something better like ash. But about 30 euro a ton delivered they were cheap. I think it may have frozen the previous year as well, or the year after. I just took one spin over there was about 30 people out on it, including an old lady with one of the old kitchen chairs who remembered it freezing 50 years earlier. And I made a few chairs with the logs, hollowed out with saw and finish with grinder sanding disc. I would display photo, but can’t seem to do it.
I prefer to have my weaker hand at the end of the handle, and my dominant hand just a bit closer to the head. I do not slide my hand down the handle. Instead, I start by placing the maul where I want to hit, then I slide the maul backwards and into a roundhouse swing, going behind me before going over the top and coming down on the log. I contract my abdominals as part of the swing; I would guess about half of the power comes from the abs. With this technique and a 15 lb (head weight) Monster Maul, I have split 20" red oak, 22" long, down the middle in 1 stroke occasionally, and usually in 2-3 strokes. Tougher woods I either flake off around the edges or use a wedge and sledge. I am learning a different technique for the Fiskars X27, as its light weight feels funny with the previous technique.
Is this a left hand's swing?
Yes!
Beautiful land!!!!!!!!!!
Beautiful Ireland 😁🇮🇪
Awesome video. Thank you!
Thanks.
I looked at the beautiful thumbnail and decided that it was going to be very disappointing if you didn’t have an accent. Great video. I’m splitting hurricane tree falls now. Need the tips.
Thanks for the comment and good luck with the splitting.
Excellent thank you 👍🏴🇮🇪
Very informative, thanks.
This is a very good video, and some of us would like to see more of you and that 11lb maul in action.
I think that it has a very "Real" use with very difficult wood, my 6lb and 8lb mauls often seem too light, and the so called "Monster maul" is the wrong shape for what I have to do...
you are the only youtube example that I have found, of someone with what I think is the right thing, and the strength to use it...
.
Very best regards from the Isle of Skye.
Thanks for the kind comments. I don't put 'stuff' up very often, but I do have a few ideas in my head for future videos. It is just an interest that I have, and I like to give my own interpretation of how this work is done, without trying to 'play up to the camera'. I expect that the weather in your part of the World can be challenging, especially around this time of year. Thanks for watching.
You are right Michael, the weather, and a few other things, are indeed challenging here, including the very knotty logs that we buy from the forestry people, hence my interest in your Muller maul.
I like the idea of it's "smashing" power through some of the Knots...
Do you have for an agent for them in Dublin?
Very best regards from Skye...
Howard.
P.S. You attracted the attentions of Terry Hale, and he definitely knows a thing or two...
Howard, I agree with your assessment of the mauls. Here is the URL- is that the right word - for the Mueller Company product catalogue which I saved to my computer:
www.mueller-hammerwerk.at/media/pl_mueller__2017-2018_web.pdf
On page 25 the number 0257,50 under Art.Nr. refers to the 5kg (5000g) maul with an ash handle of 85 or 90cm. Art.Nr. 0259,50 refers to the same item, but with a hickory handle of 88cm.
It seems that the distributor in the UK is Workware. This is the address:
Workware, Kingstown Broadway, Kingstown Ind Est, Carlisle, Cumbria, CA3 0HA, 01228 591091
sales@workware.co.uk
From my experience, there is a good chance that if you are communicating with somebody by phone or email, they will have no real knowledge of the product, so be very specific with details if you are placing an order. It is unlikely that they will have it in stock, but should be able to get one in. That's how it worked for me. However, remember that companies can be lazy about things like this, so you might have to push them.
I like your little bungie cage.
Question, you always row with a security guard?
Yeah he's a drug lord
Hey! Thanks for the video. Do you prefer the regular axe or the maul axe?
The regular axe is fine for straight grained, easy to split stuff. When you go beyond that to heavier blocks, and those that have knots and twisted grain , etc, the maul is the preferred implement. When the maul doesn't work, then it is time for the sledge and wedge. I use what is most appropriate for a given job.
Why do you put your strong hand near the head?
When you slide it down, your strong hand will end up in front of your weaker one which is the natural way to hold it. Imagine being right handed, how would you want to make a swing? You would put your right hand in front of your left, also with a baseball bat. I think it's less about strength and more about control and aim. The front hand does most of the steering.
@@MartinMaat That makes perfect sense. Thanks Martin.
That Countryside is GROGEOUS!!! So Jealous I cant live there lol. Absolutely beautiful view!
There are better views nearby.
Look at: th-cam.com/video/hGKOBhfDueM/w-d-xo.html