Only problem with this is you need to setup your detector outside in fresh air. It will set itself to 0 based on the environment it is set up in, that is why it has a long setup time after you turn it on. Being in the room for 6 hours, if there was detectable C0, the detector would not have picked it up. You always set up your detector before you enter the environment you want to test.
Great video, Bobby. If you Google using ULSD in a kerosene heater, it tells you that it's completely safe to do so. It does suggest to add either diesel fuel cleaner or 91% isopropyl alcohol 3 oz per gallon as you suggested. So this video was correct and on the money. Diesel is cheaper than kerosene and it burns longer with no odor also like the video suggested. To say it again to the views. Burning diesel in a kerosene heater is as the man said in this video it is not going to kill you it is not even going to hurt you.
I have a pretty fair amount of old lanterns, like collecting them..... dietz, prisco, embury, paull's, and after looking a Bobby's video I tried them on his mixture of diesel and alcohol, and they run fine.......they burn cleaner than the clear lamp oil I was using......amazing to me........hardly no odor.....much better than the lamp oil........
they don't sell kero out of the pump here anymore so they sell off road diesel it's called. much cheaper and it works just as good as kero. I just lit mine outside and let it run for a few min then adjusted the wick....works slick
Thanks for doing the CO test. I have used a kero heater with kerosene at my cabin and the odor at times was more than I wanted to put up with. Will be up there next week and be using BP diesel with the alcohol added.
no problem. I just got tired of the BS stick saying you have to pay 3 times the price for the same number of carbon and hydrogen chains. lol. K1 kerosene is outrageous.
Do you have an airport close by ? if you do price some Jet A. It is what I burn on my kerosene appliances. It costs me $14.75 for 5 gallons and it's just a cleaner dye free kerosene.
Out Of Place Ninja. All you have to do with yellowed or cloudy contaminated kerosene is filter it through a old felt hat in a funnel or use a real shami and pour it through that until it comes clean. A Mister Funell works great for this. Once you have filtered out the crud and moisture out of it add a little bit of alcohol per gallon to get the moisture to blend. Another trick to deodorize kerosene is filter it like above and get some limestone powder from a farm supply store. Add a cup of limestone powder to a gallon of kerosene and shake the powder in really good. Let the powder settle and shake it again. Let the kerosene sit a few days. Siphon or pour off the kerosene through a felt hat into a good clean container and the limestone on the bottom just toss it on some weeds in the driveway or into the burn barrel. I heat my home with a Perfection 525M heater every day and I love kerosene heat. That Klean Burn kerosene alternative is nothing but recycled paint thinner low odor mineral spirits and it stinks. Check out Miles Stairs Wick Shop for wick and kerosene heater information.
Alcohol helps a lot with the dye they use in kerosene and diesel fuel that is just nasty on wicks. Personally I would use 99% pharmacy grade rubbing alcohol it's cheap and works great. Methanol I would stay away from because in small amounts I'm not comfortable with the emissions it produces being burned in a heater indoors. When I fill up my Perfection heater I put a half to whole eyedropper of alcohol and the same amount of Hoppes #9 bore cleaning solvent because I like the sweet smell it gives the house. You can add a little bit of Amyl Acetate aka "banana oil" to kerosene or diesel for a sweet smell. Adding Hoppes#9, Alcohol base potpourri oil, or Amyl Acetate in small ammounts completely safe from my experience with my heater. The only slight smell I have is that first few minutes of warm up and the smell when you turn it off both things I do outside of the house. See if you can find some additive free Jet A from an airport it is all I use.
2023. Canada. K1 Kerosene at RONA building supplies works out after taxes to cost $22.50 per gallon and they only have it in 2 gallon jugs. The diesel at the Shell station (ULSD) is $1.77 per litre which is $8.00 per gallon. I have been burning diesel for a few days with a Lucas diesel additive 10 ml per gallon and 99% isopropyl alcohol 40 ml per gallon. 26 cents per gallon of diesel for the Lucas and about 8 cents per gallon of diesel for the iso from the local pharmacy. No problems so far. No soot, no smoke, no smell (other than a bit at startup and shut down) and burning clean. I am using a Dyna-Glo convection heater in my drafty old travel trailer so no worries about proper ventilation! :)
I just bought 10 litres of K1 at Crappytire for $40! Then it dawned on me not a half an hour later while at the local airport - there's a big tank of Jet A... dooof!
as someone who daily tests and calibrates those multi gas meters... next time start it up outside AWAY from the tested area... if there was and CO in that room, when you started it and it ran it's initial test it's zeroed it out.. not only that but do it enough times it will apply a permanent zero that will need removed with calibration software.
I've been doing this with my two Kerosene heaters for my garage and they both have been doing well. I need to clean the wicks but they still put out plenty of heat. I've noticed that when using Diesel, there is practically no odor. When I finished off my K-1 it stank and was giving me a head ach! Needless to say I will not be using K-1 anymore. And this is with the stock fiberglass wick. It was recommended to use all cotton wick when using diesel. I thought about trying that out to see if I have better results. But for now, they are still burning and giving off heat. I've also noticed that they burn a lot longer that using K-1.
+Ken Bilek Hey man thanks for the info. I was wondering how long you have been running the heaters with diesel. Any updates on how they are doing now? I am wanting to use diesel since its half the price of K-1 and easier to come by but I'm just a bit scared it might get clogged. Thanks!
I was fully prepared for the fiberglass wicks (stock wicks) to clog up due to the Diesel fuel but thus far they have not. And it has been a few weeks now. But keep in mind that you have to mix 91% Isopropyl Alcohol (1qt) in with 5 gal. of diesel. If you don't the water content in the Diesel will most likely foul out you wick. When you mix the two, let it sit for a while before you pour it into your Kerosene heater. Allow the alcohol to absorb the water in the diesel. Hope this helps. This is what I do and so far it has worked for me. If your wicks finally give out, try ALL COTTON wicks as it is said to be better for absorbing the Diesel fuel flow. I did this because I can't stand the K-1 odor. So I didn't care if the wicks gave out. And when they do I will just buy new ones. Good luck ok. I'll keep you posted. Just keep in mind, be prepared to buy new wicks eventually! I think it's still worth it. even if it's just for the sake of the odor alone!
Thank you! I'll give it a try. One last thing I went online and just couldn't find All cotton wicks. Its a mix of both usually. Have you found any yourself?
Hhhmmm....I did but now I can't remember the sight?! I will do a search and let you know. Try Amazon. I think that was one of them. I do know that you will have to order online. I have had no luck finding them in stores. But they are out there. One other thing, when you do fill your tank, let the Diesel soak into the wick for awhile before you light it. It should help. It did for me. I guess I should say results may vary huh?! ;)
I'm in St. Louis MO. Today, Feb 2021, Kerosene is nearly $13/gallon and ultra low sulfur diesel is $3.17/gallon. Running diesel in the heaters and my kerosene lantern is a no-brainer. The only problem that I've run into is the diesel getting to thick to move up the wick to keep the lanterns supplied with fuel so it starts burning the wick. I've got a diesel supplement on the way that's supposed to fix that. The 32oz bottle treats 100 gallons of diesel and prevents cold weather geling of the diesel fuel. I hope it works.
It will work, I know ppl that do that and I was about to as well. I am in CT and was paying $10/gal at home depot for kerosene but just found a local place that sells 1K from a pump for $4/gal. I just have to bring my own containers and it's a 20 minute car ride. You might be able to find someone that sells 1K from a pump for cheap but I had to use the Google machine for like an hour before I found this place.
@@saganworshipper6062 Awesome! I will check it out. I thought only the 2K was available at the pump. Still, kerosene 1K can have up to 400ppm of sulfur (2K is 3000ppm). But the ultra-low sulfur diesel (ULSD) must be below 20ppm sulfur. And I've heard that Shell sells ULSD with just 7ppm sulfur.
@@paulswarthout9967 Now that I've burned enough of it I can tell you a few things. 1) The $4 stuff lasts longer. A full tank of Home Depot stuff in my heater lasts about 11-12 hours. The $4 stuff lasts close to 14 hours on a full tank. 2) The Home Depot stuff does not heat nearly as well as the $4 stuff. I don't know what the exact BTU difference is, but my apartment gets much warmer on the $4 stuff and there is a qualitative difference in that when you put your hands over the heater you can definitely feel the difference. It just burns hotter full stop. 3) The flame is a lot more evenly spread with the $4 stuff. The Home Depot stuff is harder to control (in my heater anyways). With the Home Depot stuff I always have some areas with almost no flame and other spots I have big long spikes in the flame (I call it the genie in the bottle effect lol) so it's hard to guess how high to have the wick and takes constant adjusting. The $4 stuff creates a nice even flame exactly like the ideal flame shown in the manual that came with my heater. 4) The $4 stuff has a stronger odor. In between fill ups when I am filling it with the siphon the fumes from the open container are a lot stronger than the Home Depot stuff. I would recommend filling it outside or in an area that has a lot of ventilation and store it outside as well. The Home Depot stuff I was able to keep inside in the jugs without it smelling. Also if you get it on your clothes you'll need to change. I got some on my sleeve and that's all I could smell and it didn't like evaporate or anything so I had to get that shirt off. 5)The Home Depot stuff has much less smell when you turn the heater off compared to the $4 stuff. During operation, both fuels give off some odor but I would say it's pretty similar. The $4 stuff may smell slightly stronger than the Home Depot stuff while burning but it's negligible. 6) The $4 pump stuff will clog your wick up after about 4 days compared to about 8 days with the home depot stuff, so you will have to dry burn your wick twice as often.During the dry burn the $4 stuff makes more smoke/soot compared to the Home Depot stuff. I always do the dry burn/wick cleaning outside. So overall, those are the trade offs. If you don't mind the extra maintenance and the stronger odor in exchange for better efficiency as well as higher BTU's/hour then the $4/gal is definitely the way to go. If you are sensitive to the smell and don't want to deal with having to clean the wick twice as often then maybe stick with the Home Depot stuff. Also, I have a carbon monoxide meter and neither fuel seemed to register any significant amount of CO so I would say they are probably close in that area. I have a cat that is 20 years old and after all this time he hasn't seemed to be bothered by the heater at all, so they both seem safe, which I was a little concerned about in the beginning. Really surprised by how efficient kerosene is. I think they say it burns at like over 99% efficiency and I believe it. The stuff they make today compared to the stuff I remember my grandfather burning as a kid seems to be far superior when combined with a modern heater. I remember the smell being very strong when I was a kid. Hope this helps. I'm actually going to experiment with a 50/50 blend and see how that goes. Let me know if you are interested in how that goes. I'm sure I missed some stuff but feel free to ask questions if you have any. Good luck to you!
@@saganworshipper6062 Thank you!! Great information. The Lowes (brand is Klean Strip) 1K Kerosene got me through the -4F temps through the middle of February. I used it in three 12" Kerosene Hurricane lanterns. In addition to a 1500-watt oil filled radiator space heater, and the 3 lanterns, I was able to keep my 130CF greenhouse between 68F and 73F throughout the bitter cold. But the tradeoff was the kerosene produced a lot of soot, that coated the leaves of my plants. More than a few plants died. In general, kerosene releases 132,000 BTUs of heat per gallon. ULS Diesel fuel burns at cooler temperatures than Kerosene, but releases 139,000 BTUs of heat per gallon. The top of my lantern runs about 225F when burning kerosene, and about 185F when burning diesel. Therefore, a tankful of diesel will last longer than a tankful of kerosene and less heat will be released per hour with diesel than with kerosene. Incidentally, I ran out of the Lowes 1K Kerosene and wasn't able to buy any more in the middle of the really cold weather. I found a different brand at Menards of 1K kerosene for $19 for 2.5 gallons. It burns a little cooler than the Lowes 1K kerosene. So, seemingly different brands burn differently. I haven't had any trouble with my wick fouling when burning kerosene. I didn't replace the wick at all over several weeks, except when switching fuels. But I always save the wick and put it back in when switching back.
@@paulswarthout9967 Thanks for the info. I've never had my heater produce soot of any kind, like AT ALL. I've been running the heater in my living room for the last 2 months and there is no evidence of soot on any of the walls or drapes or ceiling or anywhere. Even the entire inside walls of the heater itself are completely soot free, as well as the inside "ceiling" of the heater. The heater still looks brand new. I'm wondering if you might have some combustion issue going on or perhaps have the flame too high? According to my manual, the only way it would be making soot is if the flame is set too high, which I did experience one time when I first got the heater and was experimenting with the flame before I went and read the directions cover to cover. On my DuraHeat unit the instructions say to keep the flame not much more than 1/2 an inch above the burner plate, which on my heater (likely because it is still basically new), the only way to obtain a half inch flame height is to have the wick lowered almost to the lowest setting. (It also states that operating the heater with the wick positioned any lower than the pre-set lowest setting will cause the heater to emit carbon monoxide which is obviously deadly, so it's better to have it slightly higher than normal, as opposed to lower than normal, if you aren't sure if it's at the proper flame height or not, if that makes sense). The only time it makes soot is when I dry burn the wick outside and per the instructions on my heater. When the heater is just about out of fuel and down to a flicker, I take it outside and crank the wick up to its highest setting and light it. I let it burn like that until the flame goes out completely, then I lower the wick all the way down and let it sit for about 15 minutes, then I come back and raise the wick all the way again and light it again until it burns out. Usually doing that twice ensures that I've completely burned every drop. Sometimes I will try to do it a 3rd time but usually by then it will no longer light. After that, I remove the top half of the heater and raise the wick all the way up and just brush the top of the wick with an old toothbrush. This process seems to completely rejuvenate the wick to the point that it appears almost brand new and totally soft to the touch. When I do this process after strictly burning the $4 pump stuff, it creates a lot more soot than the Klean Strip stuff. I also notice more of the carbon buildup on the wick, in the form of hard crusty balls, in which case I use a wire brush instead of the toothbrush. I have read that if you regularly do this "dry burn" to keep your wick in shape, that it can actually last *years*, but I don't know if that is true. I also have a 1500 watt oil filled radiator heater, however, that heater does not work as good as my other 1500 watt "box type" infrared heater with the fan blower. I have experimented with many different 1500 watt heaters over the years. I have tried lots of box type heaters as well as the more old fashioned quartz type ones with the reflective mirror, some of the oil-filled ones, ceramic ones, basically all of them. Even though they all claim to be about 5200 btu's, I think the best bang for your buck is a box type infrared like the one I have now, even though it appears they no longer make it, but it is a LifeSmart or LifeHome brand which are pretty common, however, the one I have has *8* heating elements when most others have 6. I never tried an Eden Pure (no longer made but can be found on ebay refurbished) or a Sun Heat (which uses a different technology instead of bulbs it has some sort of copper element). Those both cost about $300-$400 respectively so I could never pull the trigger even though I have heard those are both supposed to be really good. Ok well geeesh, once I get a ramblin it just goes on and on so I better leave this off here. Sorry for such a long winded reply, just trying to pass along what I've learned from my own experience since there is a lot of just terrible info out there. Lastly, I'm curious about the isopropyl alcohol. I see people here saying they add it to their diesel so I'm wondering if it provides a similar benefit to kerosene. Have you tried that or do you already do that? I'm going to look into it and see if it helps and what % of alcohol is best and what the ratio is. Anyways, good talking to you and thanks for the heating numbers.
Using a kerosun radiant 36 kerosene heater, and just start of the heating season... VERY VERY GOOD KEROSENE HEATER, and it tolerates the RED DYE DIESEL/HOME HEATING OIL with no issues.. Burned through 10 gallons so far of DIESEL FUEL and doing quite very well, i am pleased i did some research , because the damn electric heaters weren't doing shit, WASTE OF POWER AND DON'T HEAT SHIT. The kerosene heater it is well worth it putting diesel fuel in it, because it actually warms the rooms up and not wasting fuel. I do add 4% of gasoline to the diesel, and it helps it burn hotter, the alcohol is garbage because i put it in a gallon of diesel and there is water in the bottom of the jug because the other 10% is water. so switched to mixing some gasoline in and it lot better.....
When people talk about the I'll effects of burning diesel I think they are talking about the old diesel they use to sell. Modern diesel is ultra low sulfur diesel at 15 parts per million sulfur. K1 kerosene is 400 parts per million sulfur. The EPA has cracked down so hard on truck road diesel that it is many times cleaner than K1 kerosene. But since diesel is about 5 times cheaper than K1, the oil companies are not going to admit it and lose billions in kerosene sales. They are using scare tactics to protect their kerosene revenue.
@@dannypresson4815 here where I live (Canada) you can buy ULSD at the pump, it is commonly available now. I think Esso calls it Synergy Diesel Efficient and Shell Diesel Extra. Way less sulfur than the old diesel and even way less than K-1 .... 15ppm vs 400ppm.
Nice video sir! K1 is 3.99 here and 2.99 for off road diesel. I recommend doing it half and half and 3 OZ of 99% isopropyl alcohol per gallon of fuel. You have to use the cotton wicks though...if you have the fiberglass wicks only use the K1 kerosene. The diesel and alcohol will stop the wick up. I bought a couple of the old Perfection heaters. They work great for one medium room.
Actually, ULSD (ultra low sulfur diesel) has 15ppm or less sulfur whereas K-1 kerosene has about 400ppm, so the diesel should be better for the wick than kerosene.
You are using a kerosene heater simular to the sear heater i am using, (USES THE FIBERGLASS TYPE WICK) After each tank full of ruby diesel Bobby you may want to take the heater outside near when its almost empty put it up on high and dry burn it. tHIS will help reduce the tar buildup on the wickl, diesel has more oil in it then kerosene, i dry burn my FANCO every tank full of RUBY DIESEL and it does ok. IT is just a pain taking hte heater outside everyday to dry burn it, BUT WELL WORTH IT. If you don't dry burn ti it will buildup so fast it will clog the wick. i don't know how well it will work with your kerosene or with my sears heater, but with the FANCO seems like it can handle the RUBY DIESEL. But i am giving it a try in the sears heater then attempt to dry burn it.. See if it works or not. I have 6 Perfection heaters (FLAME SPREADER TYPE WITH 100% COTTON WICK) I used them the whole time last winter here in ohio went through about 200 gallons of ruby diesel not one issue with the Perfection kerosene heater, With the COTTON type wick i do not dry burn them PERIOD!! oTHER wise portion the wick is consumed.
the year of 2022 since of this video bobby has posted 7 years ago.... RED DYE DIESEL since has doubled in price from $2.30..... its now $4.49 that goes to tell you how much kerosene has gone up.. its probly tripple in price of the red dye diesel... & by todays standards it is still better... for the old drafty farm house i live in..... $27.98 for 2.5 gullins of that worthless garbage at lowes. I will be burning diesel for the foressable future.... klean-heat $14.98 for one gallon (kerosene) at lowes.. ITS GOOD KEROSENE IS SKY HIGH. that garbage can sit on the shelf and look pretty. May the kerosene go stale..... kerosene heaters??? they are DIESEL BURNERS..... NOT KEROSENE HEATERS...
The only kerosene I have found so far in my locale after a short search is red dyed kerosene. I have yet to use it but wonder how different it actually is from #2 heating oil and/or diesel. It was $2.99/ gal
bigpardner it’s the same stuff. Just died to mark it as off road use. Non taxable. Diesel engines will burn kerosene. At that price it would be worth it to fuel up a truck with it. But you wouldn’t be paying road tax for it. And that cuts into the highway patrols paycheck. They don’t like that.
After paying through the nose for kerosene i tried deisel in my deisel bus. With what looks like the same heater i fiund it burns just at hit or heats as effectively for 1/4 the price. had no more issue with smell except for a moment at startup
about 1 or 2 oz..shake well...let it set awhile. it will pull out any water and settle to the bottom. makes it burn much better. the diesel will be much clearer looking after it settles out.
www.google.com/search?q=kerosun+heaters+kerosene&sa=X&hl=en-US&biw=360&bih=615&noj=1&tbs=vw:l&tbm=shop&srpd=5239011026915490556&prds=epd:14892352467152881356,cid:14253795998414059365,paur:ClkAsKraX4SFVxz6b3mrWXbWcDiPJBR0SGkUyzVs5Py2DDQ9zrrYpEBh4BgUsxzraaOwaMxWPL1vXQ0jqQx2meFLXGfVN9D2TAaNeVcshjhqo6ojgL_7ZJcTbxIZAFPVH73Rkw-kp0O-ygywbploGrLF8MKaPA,cdl:1&ved=0ahUKEwi47vujiILKAhWDZCYKHWDhAqgQgTYIngQwBA&ei=8wGDVvioA4PJmQHgwovACg Or www.google.com/search?q=kerosun+heaters+kerosene&sa=X&hl=en-US&biw=360&bih=615&noj=1&tbs=vw:l&tbm=shop&srpd=3303006384980257302&prds=epd:13832695689016250812,cid:10333059384997928209,paur:ClkAsKraX1rx2RNQuVVruClPcvZpUD86aSKHs52CWGPgDK7qltR_iJjqmkK2lX21vQRIjdcwrxqiXt8sLRmpWb4C1RF94T9ekBmGt_VH3A_qIC9f3Ul6TiE5YhIZAFPVH70ws6AbIW78puKDWBV9635jmMWLHA,cdl:1&ved=0ahUKEwi47vujiILKAhWDZCYKHWDhAqgQgTYInAQwAw&ei=8wGDVvioA4PJmQHgwovACg Either type as long as they are indoor use.
+sof david just remember..it is a flame. it is burning fuel..my results may be different from yours. be aware of how you feel while its burning..even with kerosene..if you start feeling confused..sleepy..dizzy or tired..open some windows or stop using it in that area. and never go to sleep with it burning unventillated. always best to have a window cracked on opposite sides of the house to allow fresh air inflow. even older homes with propane heaters should be ventilated. any flame consumes oxygen and puts off some exhaust vapors. be smart dont get dead...
I could not tell any difference. The tank of 1.5 gallons burned about 27 hours. Same as kerosene. It's practically the same stuff. Only a couple of atoms different in the carbon chain. With additives for the lubrication and protection of the engine. Maybe some anti gel compounds. Kerosene and diesel are almost twin sisters.
CO isn't the problem. The problem is soot that clogs up the wick after about 16 hours and you ruin your wick. If manufacturers wanted you to burn diesel in a kerosene heater then they would just tell you that it is a dual fuel heater. Kerosene in a kerosene heater only. Diesel #1 and kerosene are a lot different!
Right now as this posting RED DYE DIESEL going for $2.74 a gallon (not onroad) ONROAD DIESEL is $2.89 , they might as well make the RED DYE DIESEL ONROAD same damn price, but running a FANCO series 22 KEROSENE heater, burned already 20 gallons of RED DYE DIESEL and its doing very well for my old farm house. bout every 2nd fill-up i do let it run dry, because it has a fiberglass wick and dry burning it, it really is doing very well burning DIESEL FUEL.. Had a sears kerosene heater with fiberglass, no matter what i did, it would not tolerate the diesel, BUT THIS OLD FANCO not a bit of issue burning red dye diesel, PEOPLE SAY USE CLEAR FUEL, THEY ARE FULL OF SHIT, the red dye is just there for tax purposes, HAS NO EFFECT ON HOW THE FUEL BURNS!!!!
Kerosene expensively because of a lot of aviation machinery. Diesel high point 600's degrees. Kerosene high point 500's degrees. When heater red orange hot for long it reduces carbon monoxide and allows small fresh air from window. Diesel stay warmer and cheaper than Kerosene.
my kerosene heater just like that smells so strong I can't run it in house I even put k1 with additive to burn clean and think it was worse what is wrong with it I replaced wick already was sure that'd fix it but didn't it smokes until it goes catylitic not terribly barely though .Can someone offer advice please ,thank you..
the diesel fuel now you can burn because of the sulfer in it being reduced... the old DIESEL that had the high sulfer content could not be burned in kerosene heaters back then because they smoked.... the new diesel fuel is ULSD ultra low sulfer diesel
Im finding that uls diesel is the same as 1k kerosene. Some say its the same as #1 uls diesel at 15ppm. I dont know what sells at the pump but if #1 diesel is actually better and cheaper than 1k that's great. Im getting conflicting info on this. Do you know?
@@dannypresson4815 Shell states the the sulfur content in their diesel is typically between 4ppm and 7ppm at delivery. I'll burn the rest of my K-1 in my garage heater and use ULSD in my kerosene heaters.... half the price and no smell.
Just a update, i burned through 20 gallons of RED DYE DIESEL/OFF ROAD DIESEL in my FANCO SERIES 22, and do a dry burn every 2nd fillup, and its doing very well. no complaints. KEROSENE stil $4.00 here in ohio, BUT THAT WORTHLESS CRAP hopefully people won't buy it and it will force the price down. I CALL IT WORTHLESS OVERPRICED CHIT!! MIGHT be ok for the airlines not for me. ITS 100% TOTALLY WORTHLESS SHIT!!!!
yes all cotton wick, you use FIBERGLASS it will clog it up. i tried your method like the heater you have in the video, and it jsut clogged the wick up to hell. thats why i chose the PERFECTION heaters they use the 100% cotton wick and can tolerate the diesel lot better.
George Fitzgerald it’s crazy. It’s one of the leftovers of petroleum distillation. Junk residue. And they call it “heating oil” and jack the price up 200%
Good question. If it was high enough (proof) maybe. Water doesnt do well in wick heaters so low percentage ethanol would not do well..since the remaining amount of the total percentage is water.
say it right people!!! ITS A TOILET, NOT AN TOILET, NOT an idiot!! ITS NOT A IDIOT, THE DAMN AN WORD what a worthless word, SUPPOSE TO USE A NOT THE DAMN AN WORD...
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Only problem with this is you need to setup your detector outside in fresh air. It will set itself to 0 based on the environment it is set up in, that is why it has a long setup time after you turn it on. Being in the room for 6 hours, if there was detectable C0, the detector would not have picked it up. You always set up your detector before you enter the environment you want to test.
This was such a huge miss in this video, but people that don't understand these systems will take it at face value. NOT SAFE.
Great video, Bobby. If you Google using ULSD in a kerosene heater, it tells you that it's completely safe to do so. It does suggest to add either diesel fuel cleaner or 91% isopropyl alcohol 3 oz per gallon as you suggested. So this video was correct and on the money. Diesel is cheaper than kerosene and it burns longer with no odor also like the video suggested. To say it again to the views. Burning diesel in a kerosene heater is as the man said in this video it is not going to kill you it is not even going to hurt you.
I have a pretty fair amount of old lanterns, like collecting them..... dietz, prisco, embury, paull's, and after looking a Bobby's video I tried them on his mixture of diesel and alcohol, and they run fine.......they burn cleaner than the clear lamp oil I was using......amazing to me........hardly no odor.....much better than the lamp oil........
they don't sell kero out of the pump here anymore so they sell off road diesel it's called. much cheaper and it works just as good as kero. I just lit mine outside and let it run for a few min then adjusted the wick....works slick
good test, thank you for checking, i'm using my moonlighter heater and i am having the same experience, great video.
Thanks for doing the CO test. I have used a kero heater with kerosene at my cabin and the odor at times was more than I wanted to put up with. Will be up there next week and be using BP diesel with the alcohol added.
no problem. I just got tired of the BS stick saying you have to pay 3 times the price for the same number of carbon and hydrogen chains. lol. K1 kerosene is outrageous.
'Adding a touch of 91% Alcohol helps with the odor' What do you mean by a "touch" How much Alcohol per gallon of diesel?
Do you have an airport close by ? if you do price some Jet A. It is what I burn on my kerosene appliances. It costs me $14.75 for 5 gallons and it's just a cleaner dye free kerosene.
Out Of Place Ninja. All you have to do with yellowed or cloudy contaminated kerosene is filter it through a old felt hat in a funnel or use a real shami and pour it through that until it comes clean. A Mister Funell works great for this. Once you have filtered out the crud and moisture out of it add a little bit of alcohol per gallon to get the moisture to blend. Another trick to deodorize kerosene is filter it like above and get some limestone powder from a farm supply store. Add a cup of limestone powder to a gallon of kerosene and shake the powder in really good. Let the powder settle and shake it again. Let the kerosene sit a few days. Siphon or pour off the kerosene through a felt hat into a good clean container and the limestone on the bottom just toss it on some weeds in the driveway or into the burn barrel. I heat my home with a Perfection 525M heater every day and I love kerosene heat. That Klean Burn kerosene alternative is nothing but recycled paint thinner low odor mineral spirits and it stinks. Check out Miles Stairs Wick Shop for wick and kerosene heater information.
Alcohol helps a lot with the dye they use in kerosene and diesel fuel that is just nasty on wicks. Personally I would use 99% pharmacy grade rubbing alcohol it's cheap and works great. Methanol I would stay away from because in small amounts I'm not comfortable with the emissions it produces being burned in a heater indoors. When I fill up my Perfection heater I put a half to whole eyedropper of alcohol and the same amount of Hoppes #9 bore cleaning solvent because I like the sweet smell it gives the house. You can add a little bit of Amyl Acetate aka "banana oil" to kerosene or diesel for a sweet smell. Adding Hoppes#9, Alcohol base potpourri oil, or Amyl Acetate in small ammounts completely safe from my experience with my heater. The only slight smell I have is that first few minutes of warm up and the smell when you turn it off both things I do outside of the house. See if you can find some additive free Jet A from an airport it is all I use.
Diesel burns WAY BETTER than kerosene. By 41%
2023. Canada. K1 Kerosene at RONA building supplies works out after taxes to cost $22.50 per gallon and they only have it in 2 gallon jugs. The diesel at the Shell station (ULSD) is $1.77 per litre which is $8.00 per gallon. I have been burning diesel for a few days with a Lucas diesel additive 10 ml per gallon and 99% isopropyl alcohol 40 ml per gallon. 26 cents per gallon of diesel for the Lucas and about 8 cents per gallon of diesel for the iso from the local pharmacy. No problems so far. No soot, no smoke, no smell (other than a bit at startup and shut down) and burning clean. I am using a Dyna-Glo convection heater in my drafty old travel trailer so no worries about proper ventilation! :)
I just bought 10 litres of K1 at Crappytire for $40! Then it dawned on me not a half an hour later while at the local airport - there's a big tank of Jet A... dooof!
Same as Jet A at local airport - $2.50/litre. But yeah, going to try diesel with acetone now.
as someone who daily tests and calibrates those multi gas meters... next time start it up outside AWAY from the tested area... if there was and CO in that room, when you started it and it ran it's initial test it's zeroed it out.. not only that but do it enough times it will apply a permanent zero that will need removed with calibration software.
I've been doing this with my two Kerosene heaters for my garage and they both have been doing well. I need to clean the wicks but they still put out plenty of heat. I've noticed that when using Diesel, there is practically no odor. When I finished off my K-1 it stank and was giving me a head ach! Needless to say I will not be using K-1 anymore. And this is with the stock fiberglass wick. It was recommended to use all cotton wick when using diesel. I thought about trying that out to see if I have better results. But for now, they are still burning and giving off heat. I've also noticed that they burn a lot longer that using K-1.
+Ken Bilek Hey man thanks for the info. I was wondering how long you have been running the heaters with diesel. Any updates on how they are doing now? I am wanting to use diesel since its half the price of K-1 and easier to come by but I'm just a bit scared it might get clogged. Thanks!
I was fully prepared for the fiberglass wicks (stock wicks) to clog up due to the Diesel fuel but thus far they have not. And it has been a few weeks now. But keep in mind that you have to mix 91% Isopropyl Alcohol (1qt) in with 5 gal. of diesel. If you don't the water content in the Diesel will most likely foul out you wick. When you mix the two, let it sit for a while before you pour it into your Kerosene heater. Allow the alcohol to absorb the water in the diesel. Hope this helps. This is what I do and so far it has worked for me. If your wicks finally give out, try ALL COTTON wicks as it is said to be better for absorbing the Diesel fuel flow. I did this because I can't stand the K-1 odor. So I didn't care if the wicks gave out. And when they do I will just buy new ones. Good luck ok. I'll keep you posted. Just keep in mind, be prepared to buy new wicks eventually! I think it's still worth it. even if it's just for the sake of the odor alone!
Thank you! I'll give it a try. One last thing I went online and just couldn't find All cotton wicks. Its a mix of both usually. Have you found any yourself?
Hhhmmm....I did but now I can't remember the sight?! I will do a search and let you know. Try Amazon. I think that was one of them. I do know that you will have to order online. I have had no luck finding them in stores. But they are out there. One other thing, when you do fill your tank, let the Diesel soak into the wick for awhile before you light it. It should help. It did for me. I guess I should say results may vary huh?! ;)
Will do my friend thanks!
I'm in St. Louis MO. Today, Feb 2021, Kerosene is nearly $13/gallon and ultra low sulfur diesel is $3.17/gallon. Running diesel in the heaters and my kerosene lantern is a no-brainer. The only problem that I've run into is the diesel getting to thick to move up the wick to keep the lanterns supplied with fuel so it starts burning the wick. I've got a diesel supplement on the way that's supposed to fix that. The 32oz bottle treats 100 gallons of diesel and prevents cold weather geling of the diesel fuel. I hope it works.
It will work, I know ppl that do that and I was about to as well. I am in CT and was paying $10/gal at home depot for kerosene but just found a local place that sells 1K from a pump for $4/gal. I just have to bring my own containers and it's a 20 minute car ride. You might be able to find someone that sells 1K from a pump for cheap but I had to use the Google machine for like an hour before I found this place.
@@saganworshipper6062 Awesome! I will check it out. I thought only the 2K was available at the pump. Still, kerosene 1K can have up to 400ppm of sulfur (2K is 3000ppm). But the ultra-low sulfur diesel (ULSD) must be below 20ppm sulfur. And I've heard that Shell sells ULSD with just 7ppm sulfur.
@@paulswarthout9967 Now that I've burned enough of it I can tell you a few things.
1) The $4 stuff lasts longer. A full tank of Home Depot stuff in my heater lasts about 11-12 hours. The $4 stuff lasts close to 14 hours on a full tank.
2) The Home Depot stuff does not heat nearly as well as the $4 stuff. I don't know what the exact BTU difference is, but my apartment gets much warmer on the $4 stuff and there is a qualitative difference in that when you put your hands over the heater you can definitely feel the difference. It just burns hotter full stop.
3) The flame is a lot more evenly spread with the $4 stuff. The Home Depot stuff is harder to control (in my heater anyways). With the Home Depot stuff I always have some areas with almost no flame and other spots I have big long spikes in the flame (I call it the genie in the bottle effect lol) so it's hard to guess how high to have the wick and takes constant adjusting. The $4 stuff creates a nice even flame exactly like the ideal flame shown in the manual that came with my heater.
4) The $4 stuff has a stronger odor. In between fill ups when I am filling it with the siphon the fumes from the open container are a lot stronger than the Home Depot stuff. I would recommend filling it outside or in an area that has a lot of ventilation and store it outside as well. The Home Depot stuff I was able to keep inside in the jugs without it smelling. Also if you get it on your clothes you'll need to change. I got some on my sleeve and that's all I could smell and it didn't like evaporate or anything so I had to get that shirt off.
5)The Home Depot stuff has much less smell when you turn the heater off compared to the $4 stuff. During operation, both fuels give off some odor but I would say it's pretty similar. The $4 stuff may smell slightly stronger than the Home Depot stuff while burning but it's negligible.
6) The $4 pump stuff will clog your wick up after about 4 days compared to about 8 days with the home depot stuff, so you will have to dry burn your wick twice as often.During the dry burn the $4 stuff
makes more smoke/soot compared to the Home Depot stuff. I always do the dry burn/wick cleaning outside.
So overall, those are the trade offs. If you don't mind the extra maintenance and the stronger odor in exchange for better efficiency as well as higher BTU's/hour then the $4/gal is definitely the way to go. If you are sensitive to the smell and don't want to deal with having to clean the wick twice as often then maybe stick with the Home Depot stuff. Also, I have a carbon monoxide meter and neither fuel seemed to register any significant amount of CO so I would say they are probably close in that area. I have a cat that is 20 years old and after all this time he hasn't seemed to be bothered by the heater at all, so they both seem safe, which I was a little concerned about in the beginning. Really surprised by how efficient kerosene is. I think they say it burns at like over 99% efficiency and I believe it. The stuff they make today compared to the stuff I remember my grandfather burning as a kid seems to be far superior when combined with a modern heater. I remember the smell being very strong when I was a kid.
Hope this helps. I'm actually going to
experiment with a 50/50 blend and see how that goes. Let me know if you are interested in how that goes. I'm sure I missed some stuff but feel free to ask questions if you have any. Good luck to you!
@@saganworshipper6062 Thank you!! Great information.
The Lowes (brand is Klean Strip) 1K Kerosene got me through the -4F temps through the middle of February. I used it in three 12" Kerosene Hurricane lanterns. In addition to a 1500-watt oil filled radiator space heater, and the 3 lanterns, I was able to keep my 130CF greenhouse between 68F and 73F throughout the bitter cold. But the tradeoff was the kerosene produced a lot of soot, that coated the leaves of my plants. More than a few plants died.
In general, kerosene releases 132,000 BTUs of heat per gallon. ULS Diesel fuel burns at cooler temperatures than Kerosene, but releases 139,000 BTUs of heat per gallon. The top of my lantern runs about 225F when burning kerosene, and about 185F when burning diesel. Therefore, a tankful of diesel will last longer than a tankful of kerosene and less heat will be released per hour with diesel than with kerosene.
Incidentally, I ran out of the Lowes 1K Kerosene and wasn't able to buy any more in the middle of the really cold weather. I found a different brand at Menards of 1K kerosene for $19 for 2.5 gallons. It burns a little cooler than the Lowes 1K kerosene. So, seemingly different brands burn differently.
I haven't had any trouble with my wick fouling when burning kerosene. I didn't replace the wick at all over several weeks, except when switching fuels. But I always save the wick and put it back in when switching back.
@@paulswarthout9967 Thanks for the info. I've never had my heater produce soot of any kind, like AT ALL. I've been running the heater in my living room for the last 2 months and there is no evidence of soot on any of the walls or drapes or ceiling or anywhere. Even the entire inside walls of the heater itself are completely soot free, as well as the inside "ceiling" of the heater. The heater still looks brand new.
I'm wondering if you might have some combustion issue going on or perhaps have the flame too high? According to my manual, the only way it would be making soot is if the flame is set too high, which I did experience one time when I first got the heater and was experimenting with the flame before I went and read the directions cover to cover.
On my DuraHeat unit the instructions say to keep the flame not much more than 1/2 an inch above the burner plate, which on my heater (likely because it is still basically new), the only way to obtain a half inch flame height is to have the wick lowered almost to the lowest setting. (It also states that operating the heater with the wick positioned any lower than the pre-set lowest setting will cause the heater to emit carbon monoxide which is obviously deadly, so it's better to have it slightly higher than normal, as opposed to lower than normal, if you aren't sure if it's at the proper flame height or not, if that makes sense).
The only time it makes soot is when I dry burn the wick outside and per the instructions on my heater. When the heater is just about out of fuel and down to a flicker, I take it outside and crank the wick up to its highest setting and light it. I let it burn like that until the flame goes out completely, then I lower the wick all the way down and let it sit for about 15 minutes, then I come back and raise the wick all the way again and light it again until it burns out. Usually doing that twice ensures that I've completely burned every drop. Sometimes I will try to do it a 3rd time but usually by then it will no longer light. After that, I remove the top half of the heater and raise the wick all the way up and just brush the top of the wick with an old toothbrush. This process seems to completely rejuvenate the wick to the point that it appears almost brand new and totally soft to the touch. When I do this process after strictly burning the $4 pump stuff, it creates a lot more soot than the Klean Strip stuff. I also notice more of the carbon buildup on the wick, in the form of hard crusty balls, in which case I use a wire brush instead of the toothbrush. I have read that if you regularly do this "dry burn" to keep your wick in shape, that it can actually last *years*, but I don't know if that is true.
I also have a 1500 watt oil filled radiator heater, however, that heater does not work as good as my other 1500 watt "box type" infrared heater with the fan blower. I have experimented with many different 1500 watt heaters over the years. I have tried lots of box type heaters as well as the more old fashioned quartz type ones with the reflective mirror, some of the oil-filled ones, ceramic ones, basically all of them. Even though they all claim to be about 5200 btu's, I think the best bang for your buck is a box type infrared like the one I have now, even though it appears they no longer make it, but it is a LifeSmart or LifeHome brand which are pretty common, however, the one I have has *8* heating elements when most others have 6. I never tried an Eden Pure (no longer made but can be found on ebay refurbished) or a Sun Heat (which uses a different technology instead of bulbs it has some sort of copper element). Those both cost about $300-$400 respectively so I could never pull the trigger even though I have heard those are both supposed to be really good.
Ok well geeesh, once I get a ramblin it just goes on and on so I better leave this off here. Sorry for such a long winded reply, just trying to pass along what I've learned from my own experience since there is a lot of just terrible info out there. Lastly, I'm curious about the isopropyl alcohol. I see people here saying they add it to their diesel so I'm wondering if it provides a similar benefit to kerosene. Have you tried that or do you already do that? I'm going to look into it and see if it helps and what % of alcohol is best and what the ratio is. Anyways, good talking to you and thanks for the heating numbers.
Using a kerosun radiant 36 kerosene heater, and just start of the heating season... VERY VERY GOOD KEROSENE HEATER, and it tolerates the RED DYE DIESEL/HOME HEATING OIL with no issues.. Burned through 10 gallons so far of DIESEL FUEL and doing quite very well, i am pleased i did some research , because the damn electric heaters weren't doing shit, WASTE OF POWER AND DON'T HEAT SHIT. The kerosene heater it is well worth it putting diesel fuel in it, because it actually warms the rooms up and not wasting fuel. I do add 4% of gasoline to the diesel, and it helps it burn hotter, the alcohol is garbage because i put it in a gallon of diesel and there is water in the bottom of the jug because the other 10% is water. so switched to mixing some gasoline in and it lot better.....
You're nuts if you are mixing gas with kero lol, hope you don't start a fire. That's cool if it works for you but it just screams danger lol.
thank you for the advice.
In Austalia diesel is about 1.20$ a liter and kero is 4$ .I have started using bp diesel and it has no odor or smell it is better that kero
@@Lusty_Wench thanks mate i live in mount gambier so im gonna try diesel then i recon
thanks mate im gonna try it out , youve had no issues at all?
no isses?
He said I'm not dead lol hell I'm getting 55 gallons for my heater
When people talk about the I'll effects of burning diesel I think they are talking about the old diesel they use to sell. Modern diesel is ultra low sulfur diesel at 15 parts per million sulfur. K1 kerosene is 400 parts per million sulfur. The EPA has cracked down so hard on truck road diesel that it is many times cleaner than K1 kerosene. But since diesel is about 5 times cheaper than K1, the oil companies are not going to admit it and lose billions in kerosene sales. They are using scare tactics to protect their kerosene revenue.
Are you referring to pump diesel?
@@dannypresson4815 here where I live (Canada) you can buy ULSD at the pump, it is commonly available now. I think Esso calls it Synergy Diesel Efficient and Shell Diesel Extra. Way less sulfur than the old diesel and even way less than K-1 .... 15ppm vs 400ppm.
k1 has upward of 400ppm Sulfur. ULSD has only 15. ULSD is all they sell at the pump.
Nice video sir! K1 is 3.99 here and 2.99 for off road diesel. I recommend doing it half and half and 3 OZ of 99% isopropyl alcohol per gallon of fuel. You have to use the cotton wicks though...if you have the fiberglass wicks only use the K1 kerosene. The diesel and alcohol will stop the wick up. I bought a couple of the old Perfection heaters. They work great for one medium room.
Actually, ULSD (ultra low sulfur diesel) has 15ppm or less sulfur whereas K-1 kerosene has about 400ppm, so the diesel should be better for the wick than kerosene.
You are using a kerosene heater simular to the sear heater i am using, (USES THE FIBERGLASS TYPE WICK) After each tank full of ruby diesel Bobby you may want to take the heater outside near when its almost empty put it up on high and dry burn it. tHIS will help reduce the tar buildup on the wickl, diesel has more oil in it then kerosene, i dry burn my FANCO every tank full of RUBY DIESEL and it does ok. IT is just a pain taking hte heater outside everyday to dry burn it, BUT WELL WORTH IT.
If you don't dry burn ti it will buildup so fast it will clog the wick. i don't know how well it will work with your kerosene or with my sears heater, but with the FANCO seems like it can handle the RUBY DIESEL. But i am giving it a try in the sears heater then attempt to dry burn it.. See if it works or not. I have 6 Perfection heaters (FLAME SPREADER TYPE WITH 100% COTTON WICK) I used them the whole time last winter here in ohio went through about 200 gallons of ruby diesel not one issue with the Perfection kerosene heater, With the COTTON type wick i do not dry burn them PERIOD!! oTHER wise portion the wick is consumed.
What kind of wick are you using? I've seen vids saying to use only cotton wicks to burn diesel. Miles Stair recommends the same.
Yes. It’s a cotton wick
the year of 2022 since of this video bobby has posted 7 years ago.... RED DYE DIESEL since has doubled in price from $2.30..... its now $4.49 that goes to tell you how much kerosene has gone up.. its probly tripple in price of the red dye diesel... & by todays standards it is still better... for the old drafty farm house i live in.....
$27.98 for 2.5 gullins of that worthless garbage at lowes. I will be burning diesel for the foressable future....
klean-heat $14.98 for one gallon (kerosene) at lowes.. ITS GOOD KEROSENE IS SKY HIGH. that garbage can sit on the shelf and look pretty. May the kerosene go stale.....
kerosene heaters??? they are DIESEL BURNERS..... NOT KEROSENE HEATERS...
The only kerosene I have found so far in my locale after a short search is red dyed kerosene. I have yet to use it but wonder how different it actually is from #2 heating oil and/or diesel. It was $2.99/ gal
bigpardner it’s the same stuff. Just died to mark it as off road use. Non taxable. Diesel engines will burn kerosene. At that price it would be worth it to fuel up a truck with it. But you wouldn’t be paying road tax for it. And that cuts into the highway patrols paycheck. They don’t like that.
After paying through the nose for kerosene i tried deisel in my deisel bus. With what looks like the same heater i fiund it burns just at hit or heats as effectively for 1/4 the price. had no more issue with smell except for a moment at startup
Hi, did you mix Some Alcohol with diesel, before putting it in the heater ? for example how much alcohol can you put into 1 Gallon of Diesel....
about 1 or 2 oz..shake well...let it set awhile. it will pull out any water and settle to the bottom. makes it burn much better. the diesel will be much clearer looking after it settles out.
Thanks, I'm willing to purchase a new kerosene heater from home depot for indoor use, what do you recommend ?
www.google.com/search?q=kerosun+heaters+kerosene&sa=X&hl=en-US&biw=360&bih=615&noj=1&tbs=vw:l&tbm=shop&srpd=5239011026915490556&prds=epd:14892352467152881356,cid:14253795998414059365,paur:ClkAsKraX4SFVxz6b3mrWXbWcDiPJBR0SGkUyzVs5Py2DDQ9zrrYpEBh4BgUsxzraaOwaMxWPL1vXQ0jqQx2meFLXGfVN9D2TAaNeVcshjhqo6ojgL_7ZJcTbxIZAFPVH73Rkw-kp0O-ygywbploGrLF8MKaPA,cdl:1&ved=0ahUKEwi47vujiILKAhWDZCYKHWDhAqgQgTYIngQwBA&ei=8wGDVvioA4PJmQHgwovACg
Or
www.google.com/search?q=kerosun+heaters+kerosene&sa=X&hl=en-US&biw=360&bih=615&noj=1&tbs=vw:l&tbm=shop&srpd=3303006384980257302&prds=epd:13832695689016250812,cid:10333059384997928209,paur:ClkAsKraX1rx2RNQuVVruClPcvZpUD86aSKHs52CWGPgDK7qltR_iJjqmkK2lX21vQRIjdcwrxqiXt8sLRmpWb4C1RF94T9ekBmGt_VH3A_qIC9f3Ul6TiE5YhIZAFPVH70ws6AbIW78puKDWBV9635jmMWLHA,cdl:1&ved=0ahUKEwi47vujiILKAhWDZCYKHWDhAqgQgTYInAQwAw&ei=8wGDVvioA4PJmQHgwovACg
Either type as long as they are indoor use.
+sof david just remember..it is a flame. it is burning fuel..my results may be different from yours. be aware of how you feel while its burning..even with kerosene..if you start feeling confused..sleepy..dizzy or tired..open some windows or stop using it in that area. and never go to sleep with it burning unventillated. always best to have a window cracked on opposite sides of the house to allow fresh air inflow. even older homes with propane heaters should be ventilated. any flame consumes oxygen and puts off some exhaust vapors. be smart dont get dead...
Thanks, I got the idea...
Is there someone using a vibrator in the background?
Hahaha. That’s the intake pump on the gas detector.
The " intake pump " 😉
.
.
Must be a code word for the Mega-Dil 3000
i am interested seeing the old radio in the back ground
That's a late 30s early 40s Truetone. 5 band AM and shortwave console. AM and 4 shortwave band receiver
I would like to see someone test the heat output of diesel vs kerosene on these, also how many hours each one takes to burn a tank of fuel
I could not tell any difference. The tank of 1.5 gallons burned about 27 hours. Same as kerosene. It's practically the same stuff. Only a couple of atoms different in the carbon chain. With additives for the lubrication and protection of the engine. Maybe some anti gel compounds. Kerosene and diesel are almost twin sisters.
Thx to the person who wrote me back with these answers. Much appreciated
Sounds like you’re running a barbershop with all that buzzing going on
CO isn't the problem. The problem is soot that clogs up the wick after about 16 hours and you ruin your wick. If manufacturers wanted you to burn diesel in a kerosene heater then they would just tell you that it is a dual fuel heater. Kerosene in a kerosene heater only. Diesel #1 and kerosene are a lot different!
someone mentioned a cotton wick is needed to burn diesel...can anyone explain that? Thanks
0ppm carbon monoxide? Either your heater consumes carbon monoxide or your detector is miscalibrated. Normal background without any co source is 5ppm.
Are you giving yourself a haircut while filming?
that is the pump pulling air in the meter.
Right now as this posting RED DYE DIESEL going for $2.74 a gallon (not onroad) ONROAD DIESEL is $2.89 , they might as well make the RED DYE DIESEL ONROAD same damn price, but running a FANCO series 22 KEROSENE heater, burned already 20 gallons of RED DYE DIESEL and its doing very well for my old farm house. bout every 2nd fill-up i do let it run dry, because it has a fiberglass wick and dry burning it, it really is doing very well burning DIESEL FUEL.. Had a sears kerosene heater with fiberglass, no matter what i did, it would not tolerate the diesel, BUT THIS OLD FANCO not a bit of issue burning red dye diesel,
PEOPLE SAY USE CLEAR FUEL, THEY ARE FULL OF SHIT, the red dye is just there for tax purposes, HAS NO EFFECT ON HOW THE FUEL BURNS!!!!
Kerosene expensively because of a lot of aviation machinery.
Diesel high point 600's degrees.
Kerosene high point 500's degrees.
When heater red orange hot for long it reduces carbon monoxide and allows small fresh air from window. Diesel stay warmer and cheaper than Kerosene.
Did you do a fresh air calibration on that before testing the CO?
mvfd1224 yes I did. And it has just been sent back to factory for recalibration and sensor tests
No did you zero it out outside before taking it inside?
my kerosene heater just like that smells so strong I can't run it in house I even put k1 with additive to burn clean and think it was worse what is wrong with it I replaced wick already was sure that'd fix it but didn't it smokes until it goes catylitic not terribly barely though .Can someone offer advice please ,thank you..
Maybe take it apart and clean it with a solvent. Sounds like it's gummed up with tars/soot.
Take outside for first 5 minutes, you're on the right track.
feel free to peel the protective plastic off the carbon monoxide detector
Barry Gordon it’s been on there 11 years. I can see it making another 11.
I wanted to pick it off myself.
KingAverage 1990 when it gets so scratched we can’t read the display, I’ll peel it off and have a brand new screen for 20 more years
I nurse along factory protective covers too. Real men scratch screens by looking at them.
the diesel fuel now you can burn because of the sulfer in it being reduced... the old DIESEL that had the high sulfer content could not be burned in kerosene heaters back then because they smoked.... the new diesel fuel is ULSD ultra low sulfer diesel
Im finding that uls diesel is the same as 1k kerosene. Some say its the same as #1 uls diesel at 15ppm. I dont know what sells at the pump but if #1 diesel is actually better and cheaper than 1k that's great. Im getting conflicting info on this. Do you know?
@@dannypresson4815 Shell states the the sulfur content in their diesel is typically between 4ppm and 7ppm at delivery. I'll burn the rest of my K-1 in my garage heater and use ULSD in my kerosene heaters.... half the price and no smell.
Just a update, i burned through 20 gallons of RED DYE DIESEL/OFF ROAD DIESEL in my FANCO SERIES 22, and do a dry burn every 2nd fillup, and its doing very well. no complaints. KEROSENE stil $4.00 here in ohio, BUT THAT WORTHLESS CRAP hopefully people won't buy it and it will force the price down. I CALL IT WORTHLESS OVERPRICED CHIT!! MIGHT be ok for the airlines not for me. ITS 100% TOTALLY WORTHLESS SHIT!!!!
yes all cotton wick, you use FIBERGLASS it will clog it up. i tried your method like the heater you have in the video, and it jsut clogged the wick up to hell. thats why i chose the PERFECTION heaters they use the 100% cotton wick and can tolerate the diesel lot better.
Class, use all the time as I like so
what about the smell???
leo101827 once the catalyst heats up you really don’t smell it. No worse than K1
Back in the early 60s kerosene only cost 10 cents a gallon
George Fitzgerald it’s crazy. It’s one of the leftovers of petroleum distillation. Junk residue. And they call it “heating oil” and jack the price up 200%
november 2023 in richmond va. this does not work
Brilliant thanks
Where did you calibrate the monitor?Let me guess?The same room as the heater?You now have an inaccurate reading.Go outside and calibrate
He's still alive and breathing.
Good point I didn't know that
Can you ad ethenol for the alcohol?
Good question. If it was high enough (proof) maybe. Water doesnt do well in wick heaters so low percentage ethanol would not do well..since the remaining amount of the total percentage is water.
Only in a extreme poverty situation you can do this.
May I ask what is so inferior about this heater?
I agree
or if you're frugal with money.
I put diesel with conditioner in my heater and it plug up don't listen to this guy .
Will say a use Kero, as a lux,
I wouldnt reccomend it
bull
Diesel smells too much.
say it right people!!! ITS A TOILET, NOT AN TOILET, NOT an idiot!! ITS NOT A IDIOT, THE DAMN AN WORD what a worthless word, SUPPOSE TO USE A NOT THE DAMN AN WORD...
When you say "you're a idiot" you actually sound like an idiot.
Thanks. But that buzzing is too annoying
Imagine spending 3 hours in a confined space sewer manhole making repairs with that thing buzzing on your safety harness