I'm 75. Learning is magic. You're not the same person after. I usually take on a haughty attitude after learning something. I look down my nose at people. I'll stop a person on the street and ask if they know such and such. After they give me that look, I feel more superior. I say: "So, you didn't know about the tape." It brightens my day.
You know,,,,,, I have been dealing with this problem way too long, and you, you show me this simple little trick. What an easy solution. Thank you, very much, I will try to spread this idea to others. May God Bless you.
Very good idea here. Thank you. Another option: my dad told me to take a hammer and a finish nail and poke a few holes in the rim. The paint drains back into the can through the holes. The lid seals the holes when you put it back on. Works great.
I posted the same then saw your post later. We were taught to do this back in the 60's in my wood shop class. I'm still doing it now and it works great.
As a sign maker constantly utilizing paint in my craft. I wished that I were smart enough to have come up with this simple and effective solution to such a universal problem 76 years ago. Thanks Ed...Nice video!
Another tip. I make a mark on the Lid and Can so you always put the lid on in the same position, I also store the cans upside down. Stops the contents forming a skin.
If you turn the paint upside down, when you torn it the right way.. Bingo....! You the have paint all over the lid, and the inside... No. No.. Keep it upright.. And put a piece of greaseproof paper inside on too of the paint...
I've always been frustrated when pouring paint or stain from a conventional can. I'd usually apply afterward a wadded up paper towel & insert a flat blade screwdriver covered by several thicknesses of paper towel into the lid recess, then scrape around the can lid. It would normally clean quite well. However, this simple yet ingenious technique with masking tape is so much more convenient. It will work on any size can with a conventional lid design - from gallon to quart to pint. Thanks very much for sharing a quick, inexpensive solution to an age-old problem! There are plastic accessories available from paint sections of home improvement stores that'll do the same thing, but they're usually priced at $3 to $5. With your method, only a short strip of masking tape & you're done! Piece o' cake!!!
Painter here. I'm going to try that. The new plastic cans with plastic lids are terrible for not sealing after paint gets in the groove. Also, oil primer with high solid content like "Cover Stain" builds up in that that groove and the lid will not seal. Good idea.
Great tip. People put holes in that track, not realizing that the seal in inside of those holes and they allow air to get into the can. This is great. Thank you.
My father (a homebuilder in the 1950s and 1960s) did it all the time, and never had a problem with air getting in. It's worked for me as well, at least with oil-based finishes. The holes will rust over time if the contents are water-based, but in his day those newfangled latex paints were looked down upon - and knowing him, he never used it. (This is a guy who never plumbed with anything but copper pipe and soldered joints.) If you use a dull punch or a screwdriver, you might deform the rim enough to compromise the seal, but he always used a sharp nail to do it, as do I. I'll definitely try this tape trick the next time I crack open a fresh can.
@@alext8828 Doing it "right" was second nature to him. Plus lots of craftsmen in the family, which probably translated to peer pressure - you don't want your cousins ragging on you! (BTW, the plumbing in his own house was _silver_ soldered. It'll still be tight a hundred years from now.)
Well done, I appreciate the time you took out of your day to share this tip. You saved a lot of future messy cans for others who didn't know this tip. You seem like a nice guy. Cheers
Great tip and I know it works, having used this method for a while. Minor upgrade if you want (recommended) add an inverse backup strip on the outside of the can to reinforce the tape lip. This can help secure the inner tape strip if dampness prevents full adhesion to the inner metal rim.
Good idea. One always gets paint in the rim so what I do is ths: before you open the can mark a line across the top on the can and straight down the side. I use a marker of some kind or with quart and gallon cans I put a strip of masking tape across the top and continue it down the side. Open the can, the tape will tear. and remain. You will get paint in the rim but if you line up the tape, even after the paint dries you will always be able to line it up, the dried paint all around the rim will match where it breaks upon reopening.forming a good seal.
Hi Edmond, excellent tip. Thank you very much. Your tip is so good I will pass your tip on to other people and make sure to give you the credit for the idea.
Super tip thank you. Now I'm going to take some pills and lie down for a bit. Stress from watching and praying you would not drop your phone into the paint. 🎉
I like this. I usually use a screwdriver and hammer to punch about 10 -12 holes in the rim. Most of the paint will run through the holes and the rest will be pushed through when you replace the lid. The tape might be a cleaner idea.
I’ve seen a similar trick where you put two pieces of tape across the can and overlap them and then you create a pointed lip for the paint to run along. I’ve tried that technique but never managed to get it to work. I’ll give this one a try. Thanks.
Genius. Have tried the “triangle” approach using masking tape with little success. Will try your method which looks more promising next time. Thanks for sharing.
Good video showing a good trick. When closing the can, fill it with CO2 to prevent oxidation of the paint. To get CO2, use welding gas, a beverage gas squirter or your exhalation (after holding your breath for a while). Paint in a closed can filled with the gas stays good for years.
Tape trick is good. Glad you got views. Most hardware stores sell a vinyl rubber pour lip that fastens into the grove for about $1....if you want a reusable aid
@@robira1313 i think he's mostly just trying to create content for clicks....like the people that create a simple, affordable and available tool with 10 hrs ASMR of cutting and bad welding with tools far more expensive than the tool they are making. However this is a nice cheap old painters trick that works when you don't have the better $1 tool or it is busy on another can. Duct tape is better but painter's masking tape is likely at hand when painting. I've used it myself.
You scared me with that first pour. I thought I was wasting another 4:31 of my life but, you actually managed to surprise me with a brilliant tip! Thank you so much. This will make my future painting projects much less painful. Seriously, as simple as it is, this is a great tip. Thank you, Sir. And BTW, yes, I am a new subscriber.👍
I use masking tape also, but a little differently. Two strips along each side that make a shallow V and push them onto the lip flat rather than curved on the inside. Then cut the overlapping pieces to a clean point on the outside of the V. This guides the liquid as it is being poured and keeps the drop underneath from running back to the can since the tape is level when the can is level rather than being sloped back towards the can. The only time this method failed me was with solvent based aviation paint that instantly dissolved the masking tape glue. However, it works great with water based paints.
Another poster showed using 2 pieces of tape, overlapping to form a V where you pour. If I am not going to be using the leftover paint for a while, I cover the top of the remaining paint with plastic wrap making sure to seal it around the inside of the can above the paint.
Hello Edmund. I use tape, too. However, I just place two shorter strips around the pouring side, so the tape lies flat, and forms a wide V. The paint pours out wasily, and the tape can be wiped then removed, or just removed and let any paint on the tape drip back into the can. I would suggest you make this video again, and this time, use paint that has a solid color, for the audience to see this very easily. Next, mou t the camera, either on a stand, on your chest, or some scenes ysing both, wherever the cMera angle is best for each scene you are shooting. Where did you grow up? Your accent sounds similar to Tony Beets, the Alaska gold miner with a TV show.
Many years ago when I was in high school wood shop, we were taught to tap holes in the perimeter of the sealing surface of the can with a finishing nail so the paint could drip back into the can before placing the lid on the can and tapping it shut. Fifty years later, I'm still doing that and it works quite well.
Take a 5 in one and use the pointt side and with hammer poke some holes in the bottom of reservoir you cleaned out so after lid is put back on the paint the paint can drip down through the weep holes you made. No buildup easy beasy. Also the tape is more expensive than the reusable snap on lip guide you mentioned in vid
![[UNCUT] "บอสณวัฒน์" แฉ! แหล่งซุกเงินแก๊งบอส ขยันผิดที่ไม่กี่ปีก็เข้าคุก l คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ l17ต.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BL56qIfXYZM/mqdefault.jpg)
I just turned 77 years old. Never too late to learn a new trick. thanks
Im younger that you by 6 yrs. same same.
I'm 75. Learning is magic. You're not the same person after. I usually take on a haughty attitude after learning something. I look down my nose at people. I'll stop a person on the street and ask if they know such and such. After they give me that look, I feel more superior. I say: "So, you didn't know about the tape." It brightens my day.
Excellent tip. The first 4 minutes of the video I thought you were just going to show us how to clean a can! 😊
I was about to flame him for false advertising! But you're right, at the end, he came through. I'll have to try that trick.
@@incognitotorpedo42 Same. I was about to blow haha
Goto 3:45
Yeah, I was about to skip out once he kept going around the room with a paper towel - some tip! Glad I stayed till the end.
Fast forward saved that video…
You know,,,,,, I have been dealing with this problem way too long, and you, you show me this simple little trick. What an easy solution. Thank you, very much, I will try to spread this idea to others. May God Bless you.
@@iesusegoconfidoinvobis4309 Thank you 😉👍
What did he do, just wipe it off?
A simple and cheap solution to a common problem....bravo!
Very good idea here. Thank you. Another option: my dad told me to take a hammer and a finish nail and poke a few holes in the rim. The paint drains back into the can through the holes. The lid seals the holes when you put it back on. Works great.
Yip, that’s what I was told as well.
Brilliant!
I posted the same then saw your post later. We were taught to do this back in the 60's in my wood shop class. I'm still doing it now and it works great.
Let's air in the can because the seal is on the inner lip, not that outer. Look closely at the can and lid.
@@alext8828No it doesn’t if you close the lid correctly.
I’ve done it for 30 years and not once did I have an issue like you’re mentioning.
As a sign maker constantly utilizing paint in my craft. I wished that I were smart enough to have come up with this simple and effective solution to such a universal problem 76 years ago. Thanks Ed...Nice video!
Another tip. I make a mark on the Lid and Can so you always put the lid on in the same position, I also store the cans upside down. Stops the contents forming a skin.
Both very good tips.
If the can is sealed, it matters not which way you store it.
Also drive a nail into the rim of the can. Let it drip back in. Then hammer shut the lid. Will not dry out.
@@chipcook6646I've used that method putting several in the groove after wiping out the residue.
If you turn the paint upside down, when you torn it the right way.. Bingo....! You the have paint all over the lid, and the inside... No. No.. Keep it upright.. And put a piece of greaseproof paper inside on too of the paint...
I've always been frustrated when pouring paint or stain from a conventional can. I'd usually apply afterward a wadded up paper towel & insert a flat blade screwdriver covered by several thicknesses of paper towel into the lid recess, then scrape around the can lid. It would normally clean quite well. However, this simple yet ingenious technique with masking tape is so much more convenient. It will work on any size can with a conventional lid design - from gallon to quart to pint. Thanks very much for sharing a quick, inexpensive solution to an age-old problem!
There are plastic accessories available from paint sections of home improvement stores that'll do the same thing, but they're usually priced at $3 to $5. With your method, only a short strip of masking tape & you're done! Piece o' cake!!!
Simple, quick and works like a dream. Thanks for the tip.
I wish I had know that 60 years ago. Thank you!
So simple, and yet I had to see it. Great idea.
Painter here. I'm going to try that. The new plastic cans with plastic lids are terrible for not sealing after paint gets in the groove. Also, oil primer with high solid content like "Cover Stain" builds up in that that groove and the lid will not seal. Good idea.
I use clingfilm as a gasket for lids, double it up for strength. Also works with lidded paint scuttles.
Great tip. People put holes in that track, not realizing that the seal in inside of those holes and they allow air to get into the can. This is great. Thank you.
My father (a homebuilder in the 1950s and 1960s) did it all the time, and never had a problem with air getting in. It's worked for me as well, at least with oil-based finishes. The holes will rust over time if the contents are water-based, but in his day those newfangled latex paints were looked down upon - and knowing him, he never used it. (This is a guy who never plumbed with anything but copper pipe and soldered joints.)
If you use a dull punch or a screwdriver, you might deform the rim enough to compromise the seal, but he always used a sharp nail to do it, as do I. I'll definitely try this tape trick the next time I crack open a fresh can.
@@jpdemer5 I'm sure your father was a very careful person
@@alext8828 Doing it "right" was second nature to him. Plus lots of craftsmen in the family, which probably translated to peer pressure - you don't want your cousins ragging on you!
(BTW, the plumbing in his own house was _silver_ soldered. It'll still be tight a hundred years from now.)
I am painting some stuff today and tomorrow. I will try this idea, thanks.
Good video. Punching drain holes in the groove with a sharpened screwdriver is what I did in a shop where I was using different cans all day.
Even easier with a nail.😊
Beautiful simplicity!
Wow what a great video on drips on the sides of my paint cans - u are terrific - I never thought about doing this .. thanks so much ..
Well done, I appreciate the time you took out of your day to share this tip.
You saved a lot of future messy cans for others who didn't know this tip.
You seem like a nice guy.
Cheers
Excellent and brilliant idea. Thanks for uploading it.
This works way way better than anything I've ever tried! Thank you so very much sir! You are super!! Stay blessed!
So simple yet superb!!! 👌
Thank you for recording and posting this valuable educational video.
Great tip and I know it works, having used this method for a while. Minor upgrade if you want (recommended) add an inverse backup strip on the outside of the can to reinforce the tape lip. This can help secure the inner tape strip if dampness prevents full adhesion to the inner metal rim.
Great tip. Wish I would have known it long time ago. Thank you.
That’s awesome! I’m painting tomorrow, so I will use this technique
Such an easy tip to prevent a mess. Thank you!
cool tip, thanks from a UK viewer with lots of messy paint lids!
Thank you for the great tip!
Good idea. One always gets paint in the rim so what I do is ths: before you open the can mark a line across the top on the can and straight down the side. I use a marker of some kind or with quart and gallon cans I put a strip of masking tape across the top and continue it down the side. Open the can, the tape will tear. and remain. You will get paint in the rim but if you line up the tape, even after the paint dries you will always be able to line it up, the dried paint all around the rim will match where it breaks upon reopening.forming a good seal.
Pretty damn ingenious. If it were less obvious I would've thought of it. 👍🇿🇦
Great practical idea - thanks.
Great tip. It's one of the best I've seen!
More worthy of TH-cam time than 99% of content here
2/10 for wasting 4 minutes before just getting to the point.
What a great tip, simple is best, thank you for posting 👌👍
got to be the most useful tip off you tube for ages .thanks.
A simple but brilliant solution to a common problem.
That's the way I do it. Good tip and thanks for presenting. Cheers...
@@lesblack413 😉🍻👊🤝
Good idea, Thankyou for sharing here
Hi Edmond, excellent tip. Thank you very much. Your tip is so good I will pass your tip on to other people and make sure to give you the credit for the idea.
Great tip, thanx so much .
Will give it a go.
And tell others.
The obvious tricks are always the best.
Now this is a usable tactic!
God bless you for sharing this tip 🙌
Excellent tip my friend, thank you very much.
Art from Ohio
Super tip thank you. Now I'm going to take some pills and lie down for a bit. Stress from watching and praying you would not drop your phone into the paint. 🎉
Top tip my man God bless you
great idea! thanks for sharing with the world!
I like this. I usually use a screwdriver and hammer to punch about 10 -12 holes in the rim. Most of the paint will run through the holes and the rest will be pushed through when you replace the lid. The tape might be a cleaner idea.
I do 4 holes
Genious!!! Where have you been all my life? Thank you! 😊
I’ve seen a similar trick where you put two pieces of tape across the can and overlap them and then you create a pointed lip for the paint to run along. I’ve tried that technique but never managed to get it to work.
I’ll give this one a try. Thanks.
For years I have done the 2-pc tape thing - so easy
Great idea, thank you for posting the video 😊
Great tip thank you! - I will forget it 5 minutes after watching unfortunately, but it's a great tip regardless. Thank you!
Awesome. I like it. That's one of my pet peeves about paint cans.
Simple and effective. Thank you. Start at 3:22.
Very Clever will try that next time.
Cool ! Thank you for the Tip.
Genius. Have tried the “triangle” approach using masking tape with little success. Will try your method which looks more promising next time. Thanks for sharing.
Great suggestion. I'll give it a try. Thanks
Darbojas labi. Dzīvo sveiks Edmund!
Such a clever tip.Thank you.🖖
Good idea. Another is to use a business card to pick up the paint in the rim and wipe it easily against the inner edge of the tin.
The trick is at 3:45
I tried this today and it is perfect!
This trick works better than the trick with two pieces of tape to form a V on the top.
That works. I always punch six or eight holes around the deep groove so that the paint (or whatever) is able to drain back into the can.
Great tip! Thank you!
Good video showing a good trick. When closing the can, fill it with CO2 to prevent oxidation of the paint. To get CO2, use welding gas, a beverage gas squirter or your exhalation (after holding your breath for a while). Paint in a closed can filled with the gas stays good for years.
Thank you for showing us this trick. It’s brilliant!
Very good Edward.....never seen that before.....thank you Sir.
Nick in the UK.
Brilliant idea !!!!
Nice Easy Hack! Thank You For Sharing This!
Great idea, thanks from Australia.
@@neilkemp9118 😉🍻👊🤝
2:55 Great pro tip. Thanks so much.
Tape trick is good. Glad you got views.
Most hardware stores sell a vinyl rubber pour lip that fastens into the grove for about $1....if you want a reusable aid
He did mention that. He said if "you don't want to even spend a buck or two..."
@@robira1313 i think he's mostly just trying to create content for clicks....like the people that create a simple, affordable and available tool with 10 hrs ASMR of cutting and bad welding with tools far more expensive than the tool they are making.
However this is a nice cheap old painters trick that works when you don't have the better $1 tool or it is busy on another can. Duct tape is better but painter's masking tape is likely at hand when painting. I've used it myself.
The rubber gadget just moves the mess to a different surface, which you still have to clean. Using a piece of tape is sheer genius.
Great idea!
Good tip! Thanks.
Good stuff here, thanks for the tip!
You scared me with that first pour. I thought I was wasting another 4:31 of my life but, you actually managed to surprise me with a brilliant tip!
Thank you so much. This will make my future painting projects much less painful. Seriously, as simple as it is, this is a great tip. Thank you, Sir.
And BTW, yes, I am a new subscriber.👍
I too thought that this was going to a wasted several minutes.
I only hope that I can remember this when, if I want to paint something.
It could have easily been half as long
@@busog97641 Funny, that’s the same thing I said. If I forget to use this trick, I’ll deserve the mess.
@@woodstream6137 sure but, as valuable a trick as it is, I’d have happily given twice the time.
@@mxfxdlg I think there are pour spouts you can buy to do this and wouldn't be surprised if somebody sells a silicon strip to fill some of the gap
Excellent idea. I like that it takes a tiny piece of paper tape, ie. no cost.
Where can I get free tape ?🤔
@juliocrespo1544 just borrow some off a friend
Check your trash can, probably have some used masking tape in there 😅
Good idea, it seems like you could shape the masking tape a little on the top edge to get a narrower pour, but I haven't tried it yet.
Great tip.
Soooo un obviously obvious!
Thanks for the heads-up.👍
Smart man, I never thought of that.
Good trick will try it next time.👍👍👍
I use masking tape also, but a little differently. Two strips along each side that make a shallow V and push them onto the lip flat rather than curved on the inside. Then cut the overlapping pieces to a clean point on the outside of the V. This guides the liquid as it is being poured and keeps the drop underneath from running back to the can since the tape is level when the can is level rather than being sloped back towards the can. The only time this method failed me was with solvent based aviation paint that instantly dissolved the masking tape glue. However, it works great with water based paints.
Another poster showed using 2 pieces of tape, overlapping to form a V where you pour.
If I am not going to be using the leftover paint for a while, I cover the top of the remaining paint with plastic wrap making sure to seal it around the inside of the can above the paint.
even with 66 i can keep learning....so damm logic solution i never did !! :)))))
ThkS!!!!
so simple, great idea
So cool! Thanks!
Great idea! Thx for sharing!
How come I can't come up with this stuff!?
Good idea!
Hello Edmund. I use tape, too. However, I just place two shorter strips around the pouring side, so the tape lies flat, and forms a wide V. The paint pours out wasily, and the tape can be wiped then removed, or just removed and let any paint on the tape drip back into the can.
I would suggest you make this video again, and this time, use paint that has a solid color, for the audience to see this very easily. Next, mou t the camera, either on a stand, on your chest, or some scenes ysing both, wherever the cMera angle is best for each scene you are shooting.
Where did you grow up? Your accent sounds similar to Tony Beets, the Alaska gold miner with a TV show.
Nobel Prize in painting.
Totally agree.
Thanks for sharing!
Clever. Thanks!
Every day is a school day, thanks
Many years ago when I was in high school wood shop, we were taught to tap holes in the perimeter of the sealing surface of the can with a finishing nail so the paint could drip back into the can before placing the lid on the can and tapping it shut. Fifty years later, I'm still doing that and it works quite well.
Good idea. I'm meticulous about cleaning the trough and finally wiping it clean with WD40. But this is a lot quicker.
A GREAT Suggestion! Thank You Sir!
Excellent thank you.
Take a 5 in one and use the pointt side and with hammer poke some holes in the bottom of reservoir you cleaned out so after lid is put back on the paint the paint can drip down through the weep holes you made. No buildup easy beasy. Also the tape is more expensive than the reusable snap on lip guide you mentioned in vid