Thank you for this great video! My w123 has some major suspension issues so it's parked for the winter. I'm going to get to work this spring/summer and get her back on the road!
Just giving you some shit. Lol. You did good man. I know how working on the w123 can be. I drive a 83 300td daily. I'm a diesel mechanic and It still can be frustrating sometimes.
Mine aren't that bad on my 300td. But I seen somewhere you can rebuild the whole front end for like $150. I've got a hell of a top end knock, so that's what I'll be digging into before too long.
Yeah the valves on the diesels will make some pretty terrible noises if they aren't adjusted every 30k miles or so. At least they are easy to adjust though. I just put some heat on some cheap wrenches that I had and bent them by hand in my vice to make valve adjustment wrenches for doing that exact job. It's really not bad once you break loose the valve adjustment nuts, the bent wrenches are a must. Otherwise you can't even get in there.
I would just use 50/50 diesel + Automatic transmission fluid down into the threads, give it a bit of time to work its way down and then use a breaker bar. and then use the air tools.
you have the risk of just snapping the bolt heat off and having to drill/tap or just getting new parts... and on older cars and classic it can get quite expensive, even if you can find them....
I wouldn't recommend trying to do it that way. If you don't have an impact you can always mount the hub back on the tire and use a breaker bar to get the bolts loose.
Yeah, the hottest part is where you apply the heat, but having the metal mass behind it will just leech away the heat very quickly. People playing at home, a propane torch won't be enough. You need oxy torch.
What's wrong with the vid etc A13? Sure some of bits moved but I can't actually see anything wrong with the vid as such....it was informative and clear. People like you piss me off with your f**king criticisms, go and make your own vid.
Nothing wrong with the way this has been done. As you are evidently an expert then you won't mind explaining your own methodology. People like yourself do my head in with your rude sh**ty comments!
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Im going to do my work just like this, but with a bit more care and a vise thats bolted.... LOL thanks for taking me though the journey.
Unless you are going to replace the rotors, separating them from the hubs is not necessary. But if you do, torque the hexhead bolts to 115 Nm.
Thank you for this great video! My w123 has some major suspension issues so it's parked for the winter. I'm going to get to work this spring/summer and get her back on the road!
Super instruction and Funny to see
great video. excellent. thank you.
Thank you for this video. It's the perfect one I needed!
thank you!
Just giving you some shit. Lol. You did good man. I know how working on the w123 can be. I drive a 83 300td daily. I'm a diesel mechanic and It still can be frustrating sometimes.
Yeah the bearings are usually not too bad. What we really had to hack was the ball joints. The passenger side was really tough on this car.
This looks like a gigantic pain in the a$$
Nice video thanks.
Mine aren't that bad on my 300td. But I seen somewhere you can rebuild the whole front end for like $150. I've got a hell of a top end knock, so that's what I'll be digging into before too long.
Yeah the valves on the diesels will make some pretty terrible noises if they aren't adjusted every 30k miles or so. At least they are easy to adjust though. I just put some heat on some cheap wrenches that I had and bent them by hand in my vice to make valve adjustment wrenches for doing that exact job. It's really not bad once you break loose the valve adjustment nuts, the bent wrenches are a must. Otherwise you can't even get in there.
I would just use 50/50 diesel + Automatic transmission fluid down into the threads, give it a bit of time to work its way down and then use a breaker bar.
and then use the air tools.
Sometimes we use that method but heat can be magic if you don't want to wait.
you have the risk of just snapping the bolt heat off and having to drill/tap or just getting new parts... and on older cars and classic it can get quite expensive, even if you can find them....
Great job man!! What type of grease did you use ?
Do you need more grease inside the hub before putting the bearing in?
Im wondering how your able to tell when the wheel bearings are bad. What type of test do you use?
Can the bearings not be replaced without separating the hub and the rotor ?
I wouldn't recommend trying to do it that way. If you don't have an impact you can always mount the hub back on the tire and use a breaker bar to get the bolts loose.
So I changed my bearings, front rotors, pads I took it for a test drive and it’s making a lot of noise like metal touching or something.... 1983 240f
Did you fix it, what was the problem?
Easy fix, crank up the stereo!
@@sv_cheats1970I would guess a bent brake rotor shield would be the cause of the issue or the bearings not being tight enough or too tight
lol
the whole thing is acting like a heat soak... wasting your time.
It worked!
Yeah, the hottest part is where you apply the heat, but having the metal mass behind it will just leech away the heat very quickly.
People playing at home, a propane torch won't be enough. You need oxy torch.
@qwertyui90qwertyui90 you do not need an oxy torch at all, complete overkill. I use a blow torch like this many times with success.
Great how NOT to video.
Thanks!
What's wrong with the vid etc A13?
Sure some of bits moved but I can't actually see anything wrong with the vid as such....it was informative and clear. People like you piss me off with your f**king criticisms, go and make your own vid.
How about some specifics there, Smokey!
Nothing wrong with the way this has been done. As you are evidently an expert then you won't mind explaining your own methodology. People like yourself do my head in with your rude sh**ty comments!