Thank you for a great video. I'll be replacing the front wheel bearings on my 1995 R129 soon. I remember changing wheel bearings 30 years ago and tapping out the races and tapping them back in (being careful not to score the bearing seat of the race ) , with a 1/2" metal dowel and hand packing the bearings with high temp bearing grease. And tightening the bearings by feel ( not using a dial indicator) , using a socket and ratchet. Never had any issues or problems using this method . Just wanted to share that with you . Thank you again for another great , informative video.
Thank you! I was also surprised at how precise the Mercedes adjustment requirement was. My Fiat is still the old-school "torque it to spec, spin it, re-torque" and then cotter pin through a castle nut type. Much easier.
Great video. Very informative and well explained. For me personally, I'd rather spend a little bit more and buy a new hub assembly than to deal with punching out, greasing, and installing bearings. Hub assemblies for these cars are around $100 on a lot of auto parts sites.
Glad you enjoyed it! In all of my videos I try to show one version of how to solve whatever the issue is. I want to show the option. Some folks say "OK, now I see how to do that. I think I can do it." Or they might say" Maybe I'd better have a real repair shop do this." Either reaction means I've done my job. I hesitate to buy complete assemblies anymore , just because I'm never sure who actually did it, or what parts they used. My recent Fiat rear brake video shows the incomplete caliper I received from a well-regarded vendor. So anything can happen these days.
Another superb video. Of course it was fun to see the Benz way of doing things, and I appreciate the demonstration of the use of the dial indicator. as opposed to the technique I have used : Does the wheel wobble? Wobble Bad! But then this is not the Millennium Pinto!
In many ways I prefer the castle-nut and torque spec versions of wheel bearings, like the Fiat and yes, the Millennium Pinto had. The tolerances on the Benz are pretty tight and you have to do the push & pull thing many times and then carefully tighten that clamp nut without moving it. (and it is greta to hear from you again!)
It's a great time get all those things done before the good summer weather gets here. Get them out of the way and enjoy a care-free driving season. Take your time with the dial indicator, it is a very tight tolerance and I spent a lot of time getting it not too loose or too tight. Alden
I have been thinking of doing this on my 2.6, I have watched a few videos but this is by far the best, step by step and using tools that are easy to find, the only difficult part, at least for me, is the last one. By the way, your 190e looks very rusty, rust encapsulator paint or miracle paint will do wonders to your car.
Yes, setting the correct runout on the bearings really needs to be done with a dial indicator. I finally got to where I would do this after a repair shop charged me $45 each side just to adjust the bearings. That was more than the dial indicator cost, so into the toolbox it went! The 190E is 35 years old at this point, and although doesn't have holes in the floor, I am somewhat taken aback at how rusty the suspension parts are. I just have to find the time to do the POR15 thing with it. Alden
I replaced mine when the driver's side was making a low rhythmic clicking sound. Mercedes shows service "3361" is just a "check adjustment". You could probably just repack and adjust them every 15-30K miles, but I did not see a definite interval in my manual. So certainly if you hear a noise. You can check the play by jacking the front wheels off the ground and grasping the tire at 9 & 3 and wiggling it, then 12 & 6 o'clock positions and doing the same. It should not wobble. Alden
Yes, the wobble. Mine wobbles from the 12 and 6 position on both side. I just led the cad up and saw that the brake rotor was moving with the wheel and not the ball joint…at least to my eye. Would you assume a bad bearing?
The coolest places possible: the socket set 1997, the Paris department store Samaritaine, the screwdrivers from the FAMI tool store on Rue Grimaldi in Monaco. That said, I've also found some individual tools online, usually from vendors in the UK that will ship to USA. Alden
Thank you for a great video.
I'll be replacing the front wheel bearings on my 1995 R129 soon.
I remember changing wheel bearings 30 years ago and tapping out the races and tapping them back in (being careful not to score the bearing seat of the race ) , with a 1/2" metal dowel and hand packing the bearings with high temp bearing grease. And tightening the bearings by feel ( not using a dial indicator) , using a socket and ratchet. Never had any issues or problems using this method . Just wanted to share that with you .
Thank you again for another great , informative video.
Thank you! I was also surprised at how precise the Mercedes adjustment requirement was. My Fiat is still the old-school "torque it to spec, spin it, re-torque" and then cotter pin through a castle nut type. Much easier.
@@FlashDriveFilms, I agree , I am also surprised.
Great video. Very informative and well explained.
For me personally, I'd rather spend a little bit more and buy a new hub assembly than to deal with punching out, greasing, and installing bearings. Hub assemblies for these cars are around $100 on a lot of auto parts sites.
Glad you enjoyed it! In all of my videos I try to show one version of how to solve whatever the issue is. I want to show the option. Some folks say "OK, now I see how to do that. I think I can do it." Or they might say" Maybe I'd better have a real repair shop do this." Either reaction means I've done my job. I hesitate to buy complete assemblies anymore , just because I'm never sure who actually did it, or what parts they used. My recent Fiat rear brake video shows the incomplete caliper I received from a well-regarded vendor. So anything can happen these days.
Thank you for this video!
Glad it was helpful!
Another superb video. Of course it was fun to see the Benz way of doing things, and I appreciate the demonstration of the use of the dial indicator. as opposed to the technique I have used : Does the wheel wobble? Wobble Bad! But then this is not the Millennium Pinto!
In many ways I prefer the castle-nut and torque spec versions of wheel bearings, like the Fiat and yes, the Millennium Pinto had. The tolerances on the Benz are pretty tight and you have to do the push & pull thing many times and then carefully tighten that clamp nut without moving it. (and it is greta to hear from you again!)
Great, thanks very much as I am about to change pads,discs and bearings on my 1996 320SL, thank you very much
It's a great time get all those things done before the good summer weather gets here. Get them out of the way and enjoy a care-free driving season. Take your time with the dial indicator, it is a very tight tolerance and I spent a lot of time getting it not too loose or too tight.
Alden
I have been thinking of doing this on my 2.6, I have watched a few videos but this is by far the best, step by step and using tools that are easy to find, the only difficult part, at least for me, is the last one. By the way, your 190e looks very rusty, rust encapsulator paint or miracle paint will do wonders to your car.
Yes, setting the correct runout on the bearings really needs to be done with a dial indicator. I finally got to where I would do this after a repair shop charged me $45 each side just to adjust the bearings. That was more than the dial indicator cost, so into the toolbox it went! The 190E is 35 years old at this point, and although doesn't have holes in the floor, I am somewhat taken aback at how rusty the suspension parts are. I just have to find the time to do the POR15 thing with it.
Alden
definitive - excellent
Thank you!
when do you know when it's time to replace it?
I replaced mine when the driver's side was making a low rhythmic clicking sound. Mercedes shows service "3361" is just a "check adjustment". You could probably just repack and adjust them every 15-30K miles, but I did not see a definite interval in my manual. So certainly if you hear a noise. You can check the play by jacking the front wheels off the ground and grasping the tire at 9 & 3 and wiggling it, then 12 & 6 o'clock positions and doing the same. It should not wobble.
Alden
Yes, the wobble. Mine wobbles from the 12 and 6 position on both side. I just led the cad up and saw that the brake rotor was moving with the wheel and not the ball joint…at least to my eye. Would you assume a bad bearing?
where did you get the Facom tool set from?
The coolest places possible: the socket set 1997, the Paris department store Samaritaine, the screwdrivers from the FAMI tool store on Rue Grimaldi in Monaco. That said, I've also found some individual tools online, usually from vendors in the UK that will ship to USA.
Alden